In 2015 I bought an almost new New Holland T7.170 tractor. One of the things I tried with it was a front disc mower. Sometimes it is good to watch promoting videos from the different manufacturers because they tell you things others don't even if you don't go with their machine. I was testing a front mower from my Krone dealer not being able to go much faster than a conventional haybine. Then I remembered in a Claas video there was a suggestion that if the crop don't need it to cut properly reduce PTO speed to 850 to save on power and fuel usage. I did that with the Krone mower and it saved me enough power to go a MPH faster.
I forgot to mention this was a prototype Krone mower wider than what they offered at the time and the front PTO on the New Holland was aftermarket and the engine didn't boost power with it on so a 16,000 pound tractor with 100 PTO Horsepower. My suggestion to anyone needing a small frame T7 buy a 200 or 210 for the right power for the tractor's size.
@@rustyshank912 shouldn't the t7.170 not have 170 hp? my neighbours uses a 10m combination with his steyr 6195 cvt and goes up to 20km/h so 170hp for just a at most 3.5 meter front mower should be by far enough
@@christian9125abd There are power train losses so you don't get the full engine power out the back or the front. My tractor's don't know there's a front PTO so it will not boost the engine to a full 170hp only does that when using the rear PTO at 1000rpm or pulling a load at speed. Always could chip it but if that messes with emissions that can get me into trouble. So only 105 PTO Horsepower when running front implements only.
Have you ever tried mowing a field by starting from the center and going in a spiral outwards? That could speed up the mowing. I did that with my lawn service on a back lawn behind a 4 plex and my time was reduced by at least 1/3rd.
Makes sense with the narrow roads and gates you have to deal with... a pull type unless it was like a 9 footer would be REALLY tight for some of those gates... maybe that littlest Deere moco... which would be plenty what you're doing. A disk mower is really designed to be run at RATED RPM... IOW, if it's a 540 drive PTO input, you should run it at 540 minimum... if it's designed for 1000 RPM PTO, then run it at 1000... the blades and powertrain of the mower are designed to cut and run best at the rated rpm... if you're not running at rated rpm, then you're overtorquing the drive train, unnecessary strain on the cutterbar gears and stuff... the things are made to work from a kind of "flywheel effect" and using those little lawnmower size blades to do a heck of a lot of cutting, and they only way they can do it with a clean cut is with maximum rated speed... If you're starting out at only 3/4 or so rated speed, then you're really overworking the machine because it's having to work harder to cut than it would be at full rated speed. With a sickle or haybine or whatever it doesn't really matter that much, but with a diskbine, that's a whole other kettle of fish. PLUS the finger conditioner (flail conditioner) needs to run at max RPM for best effect and full conditioning... they're not as efficient or flexible as a roller conditioner which really doesn't care what speed its run at, since the rollers are going to crush/crimp the material going through the rollers fast or slow. Flails work by abrasion and that only comes with the fingers making as fast and frequent a contact with the material as possible while it's in the conditioning hood before its expelled out the back. If its not running full speed, the flails may only comb against a given stem say 3 times instead of 4, so it's not going to be scuffed or bashed enough to really open the stem up for evaporation like it should be. Run full rated PTO speed on your tachometer, and then select whatever ground speed is appropriate for the field size/shape you're in or the ground conditions...
"It'd be a bad day, if we mowed the camera, I don't think it'd make it out alive"... Ummm... NOPE! Ain't nothing that goes under that curtain coming out intact... I used to mow the roadsides from our place at Needville 5 miles into town, both sides of the road, and about 5 miles out to the river bridge, about another 5 miles. The drum mower worked great for that, because it didn't get plugged up and leave a stripe when a paper cup got caught on a sickle guard like the old sickle machine, and leave a stripe... beer bottles were no problem-- you'd hear this "TTTTSSSS!" under the hood of the mower-- the beer bottle had been hit by the mower blades and simply exploded into shards that hit the underside of the shield. When raking the hay the shards all fell out onto the ground and were left behind. One day I was cutting and heard this horrible loud "BBBBZZZZZZZZZTTTTTT" noise and looked back, and this big old heavy thick spoked hubcap off a Cadillac, those things were about 4 inches thick with heavy spokes and decorative crap, well, it had come off a car and was laying at like a 45 degree angle and it went through the mower-- the blades simply zipped that thing in half like it was tin foil... so a camera, that wouldn't even be a lite snack... I get off to stretch and I see rats that were in the process of diving down a hole when the mower caught up to them-- front half of the rat is in the hole, back half of the rat is laying a few feet away, mower zipped them right in two and tossed their @ss out the back...
Man i would have loved any of the New Hollands we had back in the day to travel behind the tractor like that. Instead transport mode is still slightly outside of the tractor and tight new england roads between fields is always avoiding mailboxes and oncoming cars. Never fun.
Yeah the turns are different with a 3 point mower versus a pull type... the easiest and fastest way is just make your turns at speed, leave the mower down, and if you have to cut in on the turn and leave a little "crescent moon" of uncut grass between swaths in the middle of the turn, so be it. Unlike a haybine sickle machine that doesn't like to go through previously cut stuff without clogging up , a disk mower will run right through the stuff without giving it a second thought, no problem. Cut at speed with the mower down through the turns roundy-round, then when you're to the center of the field on the next to last pass, when you get to the far end away from the gate, cut out to each corner in a "V" pattern from the center to each corner and back to the center; I cut with the end or point of the "crescent moon" uncut bits in the corners just outside my RH tire, then turn right in the corner, back up if needed but usually I don't have to, and then cut back to the center with the other end of the crescent moon bits that didn't get cut (usually not much just a few tufts here and there) to the outside of the RH tire cutting back to the center, then out and back from the other corner, then return down the middle on the last pass, then out to the corner at the gate end of the field furthest from the gate, out and back to the center, then out to corner closest to the gate, and back IF NEEDED... a lot of times if there's just a stray tuft or two I won't bother going back to the center on the last corner, unless you're trying to leave the field looking really nice for a customer or something. Then I make the last pass around the field with the mower out toward the fence, so I end up back nearest the gate when I finish the last pass... course looks like you like to go backwards next to the fence with the mower on the first pass then reverse directions to cut the field mower to the center, whatever floats your boat... Doing it that way saves a heck of a lot of time and riding the hydraulics up and down constantly picking up the mower at the ends/corners and keeps the mower down on the ground cutting, rather than deadheading across ends or fumming around in the corners... works fine check out my channel cutting you'll see what I mean... I put the mower down PTO on rev up to 1900 on the tach, pop her in sixth gear for 6 mph and GO, never stop or slow down til I need a break or finish the field...
So the onliest thing wrong with the wheeless Pottinger is ya'll need 400 lbs of weights on the tractor front then everything is perfect. It even trails straight behind on the road. Everything is perfect.
The ones that tip up vertically will fit through that gate as well and there are a hell of a lot better over those swing backs. Over time the weight of that hanging back there beats the mainframe all to crap and starts cracking all the welds. That's why nobody wants them.
@@christian9125abd good luck finding anyone running triple mowers around here that has swing back rear mounts. 🤣🤣 Nobody has bought one of those around here and probably close to 15 years. And they weren't triples either cuz there's no way to swing two mowers back side by side they were out the right and a front mount. they beat themselves all to pieces with the torque loading on the mainframe at the back of the tractor from weight so far back Everything is vertical transport. How the fuck would you have two rear mounts both swing back they be sticking out each side of the tractor 6 ft to be 20 ft wide going down the road. Lmao
@@Otherrandomguy42 you should take a look at the pöttinger novacut S12, 12meter cutting width and it swings backwards as in europe you are not allowed to go higher than about 4 meters and that is not possible with that width
@@Otherrandomguy42 kph not mph... I've heard of guys mowing at 10 mph but that's got to be a golf-course smooth field... or beat the h3ll out of the machine, tractor, and operator... 6-8 mph is pretty typical range for most folks...
I think that's the stupid camera... they put "smart sound" programming in the mic/recorder to "home in" on nearby sounds and tune out far away sounds, but with a loud tractor and mower and then speaking intermittently, the thing doesn't respond instantly when he starts talking, or when he stops talking... I've seen some other cameras that do that and it's annoying particularly if you can't turn that feature off, which a lot of them you can't... so you just have to live with it.
He sold out his chickens and chicken tractors a long time back, in a video there was still snow on the ground. Prices for chickens and equipment was sky high so he chose a good time to get out, get top dollar for his stuff and free up money to do other things like this mower... Always want to get out at the top of the market not the bottom so you don't take a beating...
The weeds in that hay. 😳😳 pH is low add lime and some manure then no till in some timothy and fescue then you'll get a decent crop and won't be wasting your time making this.
That’s horrible looking crop to be cutting for feed. Also. If you run it at proper pto speed you’ll be able to literally double your ground speed. With good knives and a crop like that I could go a solid 8-10 mph and still be cutting good.
![Kodak Black - Versatile 4 [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VcP_1Ua__vY/mqdefault.jpg)
I really like that your videos are more frequent nowadays keep that up please I appreciate it.
More time at night to edit with the days get shorter lol
It's yer money and yer mower... 😉 .. we buy things that fit the most purposes possible .. stay safe 🏴.. ps nice seeing the TW again..
In 2015 I bought an almost new New Holland T7.170 tractor. One of the things I tried with it was a front disc mower. Sometimes it is good to watch promoting videos from the different manufacturers because they tell you things others don't even if you don't go with their machine. I was testing a front mower from my Krone dealer not being able to go much faster than a conventional haybine. Then I remembered in a Claas video there was a suggestion that if the crop don't need it to cut properly reduce PTO speed to 850 to save on power and fuel usage. I did that with the Krone mower and it saved me enough power to go a MPH faster.
I forgot to mention this was a prototype Krone mower wider than what they offered at the time and the front PTO on the New Holland was aftermarket and the engine didn't boost power with it on so a 16,000 pound tractor with 100 PTO Horsepower. My suggestion to anyone needing a small frame T7 buy a 200 or 210 for the right power for the tractor's size.
@@rustyshank912 shouldn't the t7.170 not have 170 hp? my neighbours uses a 10m combination with his steyr 6195 cvt and goes up to 20km/h so 170hp for just a at most 3.5 meter front mower should be by far enough
@@christian9125abd There are power train losses so you don't get the full engine power out the back or the front. My tractor's don't know there's a front PTO so it will not boost the engine to a full 170hp only does that when using the rear PTO at 1000rpm or pulling a load at speed. Always could chip it but if that messes with emissions that can get me into trouble. So only 105 PTO Horsepower when running front implements only.
@@christian9125abd also forgot to say prototype Krone 3.8 meter cutting some tall rye.
@@rustyshank912 could you not kinda outsmart that system by switching on rear pto?
That tractor cab cleaned up nice 👍
Looks good Jacob. Have a good day.
Sweet running Ford
Awesome.....
I have a 3 pt disc mower as well love it for Tight lanes as well
LOVE YOUR VIDEOS HOPE YOU HAVE A GREAT DAY
Morning Jacob. Have a good day.
Have you ever tried mowing a field by starting from the center and going in a spiral outwards? That could speed up the mowing. I did that with my lawn service on a back lawn behind a 4 plex and my time was reduced by at least 1/3rd.
Makes sense with the narrow roads and gates you have to deal with... a pull type unless it was like a 9 footer would be REALLY tight for some of those gates... maybe that littlest Deere moco... which would be plenty what you're doing.
A disk mower is really designed to be run at RATED RPM... IOW, if it's a 540 drive PTO input, you should run it at 540 minimum... if it's designed for 1000 RPM PTO, then run it at 1000... the blades and powertrain of the mower are designed to cut and run best at the rated rpm... if you're not running at rated rpm, then you're overtorquing the drive train, unnecessary strain on the cutterbar gears and stuff... the things are made to work from a kind of "flywheel effect" and using those little lawnmower size blades to do a heck of a lot of cutting, and they only way they can do it with a clean cut is with maximum rated speed... If you're starting out at only 3/4 or so rated speed, then you're really overworking the machine because it's having to work harder to cut than it would be at full rated speed. With a sickle or haybine or whatever it doesn't really matter that much, but with a diskbine, that's a whole other kettle of fish. PLUS the finger conditioner (flail conditioner) needs to run at max RPM for best effect and full conditioning... they're not as efficient or flexible as a roller conditioner which really doesn't care what speed its run at, since the rollers are going to crush/crimp the material going through the rollers fast or slow. Flails work by abrasion and that only comes with the fingers making as fast and frequent a contact with the material as possible while it's in the conditioning hood before its expelled out the back. If its not running full speed, the flails may only comb against a given stem say 3 times instead of 4, so it's not going to be scuffed or bashed enough to really open the stem up for evaporation like it should be. Run full rated PTO speed on your tachometer, and then select whatever ground speed is appropriate for the field size/shape you're in or the ground conditions...
Good video.
Perfect roads in Boem farm area, nothing could improve them at this time.
"It'd be a bad day, if we mowed the camera, I don't think it'd make it out alive"... Ummm... NOPE! Ain't nothing that goes under that curtain coming out intact... I used to mow the roadsides from our place at Needville 5 miles into town, both sides of the road, and about 5 miles out to the river bridge, about another 5 miles. The drum mower worked great for that, because it didn't get plugged up and leave a stripe when a paper cup got caught on a sickle guard like the old sickle machine, and leave a stripe... beer bottles were no problem-- you'd hear this "TTTTSSSS!" under the hood of the mower-- the beer bottle had been hit by the mower blades and simply exploded into shards that hit the underside of the shield. When raking the hay the shards all fell out onto the ground and were left behind. One day I was cutting and heard this horrible loud "BBBBZZZZZZZZZTTTTTT" noise and looked back, and this big old heavy thick spoked hubcap off a Cadillac, those things were about 4 inches thick with heavy spokes and decorative crap, well, it had come off a car and was laying at like a 45 degree angle and it went through the mower-- the blades simply zipped that thing in half like it was tin foil... so a camera, that wouldn't even be a lite snack...
I get off to stretch and I see rats that were in the process of diving down a hole when the mower caught up to them-- front half of the rat is in the hole, back half of the rat is laying a few feet away, mower zipped them right in two and tossed their @ss out the back...
How did your pumpkins do this year ? Looking forward to a pumpkin video..
Good stuff
Man i would have loved any of the New Hollands we had back in the day to travel behind the tractor like that. Instead transport mode is still slightly outside of the tractor and tight new england roads between fields is always avoiding mailboxes and oncoming cars. Never fun.
Yeah the turns are different with a 3 point mower versus a pull type... the easiest and fastest way is just make your turns at speed, leave the mower down, and if you have to cut in on the turn and leave a little "crescent moon" of uncut grass between swaths in the middle of the turn, so be it. Unlike a haybine sickle machine that doesn't like to go through previously cut stuff without clogging up , a disk mower will run right through the stuff without giving it a second thought, no problem. Cut at speed with the mower down through the turns roundy-round, then when you're to the center of the field on the next to last pass, when you get to the far end away from the gate, cut out to each corner in a "V" pattern from the center to each corner and back to the center; I cut with the end or point of the "crescent moon" uncut bits in the corners just outside my RH tire, then turn right in the corner, back up if needed but usually I don't have to, and then cut back to the center with the other end of the crescent moon bits that didn't get cut (usually not much just a few tufts here and there) to the outside of the RH tire cutting back to the center, then out and back from the other corner, then return down the middle on the last pass, then out to the corner at the gate end of the field furthest from the gate, out and back to the center, then out to corner closest to the gate, and back IF NEEDED... a lot of times if there's just a stray tuft or two I won't bother going back to the center on the last corner, unless you're trying to leave the field looking really nice for a customer or something. Then I make the last pass around the field with the mower out toward the fence, so I end up back nearest the gate when I finish the last pass... course looks like you like to go backwards next to the fence with the mower on the first pass then reverse directions to cut the field mower to the center, whatever floats your boat...
Doing it that way saves a heck of a lot of time and riding the hydraulics up and down constantly picking up the mower at the ends/corners and keeps the mower down on the ground cutting, rather than deadheading across ends or fumming around in the corners... works fine check out my channel cutting you'll see what I mean... I put the mower down PTO on rev up to 1900 on the tach, pop her in sixth gear for 6 mph and GO, never stop or slow down til I need a break or finish the field...
So the onliest thing wrong with the wheeless Pottinger is ya'll need 400 lbs of weights on the tractor front then everything is perfect. It even trails straight behind on the road. Everything is perfect.
usually you would use this with a tractor that as a front mower which on, which will balance out the weight
Nice work.What road were you on? Thanks
The ones that tip up vertically will fit through that gate as well and there are a hell of a lot better over those swing backs. Over time the weight of that hanging back there beats the mainframe all to crap and starts cracking all the welds. That's why nobody wants them.
I wanted a krone, but this is what I found for a price I didn't totally hate.
@@boehmfarm4276 yeah hopefully it serves you well. It'll save you a fair bit of time over the old haybine.
never heard any of those break down, all the big mowers are swing back, even the big butterflys
@@christian9125abd good luck finding anyone running triple mowers around here that has swing back rear mounts. 🤣🤣 Nobody has bought one of those around here and probably close to 15 years. And they weren't triples either cuz there's no way to swing two mowers back side by side they were out the right and a front mount. they beat themselves all to pieces with the torque loading on the mainframe at the back of the tractor from weight so far back Everything is vertical transport. How the fuck would you have two rear mounts both swing back they be sticking out each side of the tractor 6 ft to be 20 ft wide going down the road. Lmao
@@Otherrandomguy42 you should take a look at the pöttinger novacut S12, 12meter cutting width and it swings backwards as in europe you are not allowed to go higher than about 4 meters and that is not possible with that width
Any ETA of better audio?
What’s the full speed that you can go with that mower? Nice setup 👍
Probably 17-20mph on smooth ground with no rocks.
@@Otherrandomguy42 nice 👍
@@Otherrandomguy42 most of the times the tractor will set the limit for the mowing speed
@@Otherrandomguy42 kph not mph... I've heard of guys mowing at 10 mph but that's got to be a golf-course smooth field... or beat the h3ll out of the machine, tractor, and operator... 6-8 mph is pretty typical range for most folks...
Did you had a Video towing a combine?
Yes from last fall.
Your voice fades in and out when you’re turning your head back and forth it drives me crazy when you do that
I think that's the stupid camera... they put "smart sound" programming in the mic/recorder to "home in" on nearby sounds and tune out far away sounds, but with a loud tractor and mower and then speaking intermittently, the thing doesn't respond instantly when he starts talking, or when he stops talking... I've seen some other cameras that do that and it's annoying particularly if you can't turn that feature off, which a lot of them you can't... so you just have to live with it.
Audio has been poor for many videos
👍👌❤🇨🇦
Do you still sell eggs ? Was that profitable in your area
He sold out his chickens and chicken tractors a long time back, in a video there was still snow on the ground. Prices for chickens and equipment was sky high so he chose a good time to get out, get top dollar for his stuff and free up money to do other things like this mower... Always want to get out at the top of the market not the bottom so you don't take a beating...
@@lukestrawwalker gotcha 👍🏻
The weeds in that hay. 😳😳 pH is low add lime and some manure then no till in some timothy and fescue then you'll get a decent crop and won't be wasting your time making this.
What dose one of those mowers cost
Used, 8500. New.... Probably over 25k
That’s horrible looking crop to be cutting for feed.
Also. If you run it at proper pto speed you’ll be able to literally double your ground speed. With good knives and a crop like that I could go a solid 8-10 mph and still be cutting good.