Great video, I think you're right, the numbers are based on a simulated lap or a selection of generic corner(s). in reality a racer/driver can find laptime by driving a car beyond its safe optimum which can change the shape of corners to generate a better laptime.
I have a theory as to how they get their numbers based on what we already know. You say it is a fictitious track absolutely, but I don't think it accounts for how hard a human will drive the car in-game. If you look at demonstrations in License Tests and how accurately they force the AI to drive, how the AI drives in the game, I assume that's how it would simulate the G numbers, to those limits. I don't think the AI would be beneficial if it threw itself into a corner like some of us do and had to figure out how to correct it, it'll only go for the line that has the most grip with the least amount of error thus using less speed. Just a theory but I thought about it and there are quite a few holes to this one.
I think you may have a good point. When doing things like the Licence Tests and watch the demo car, The demo car looks and sounds slow but in fact is quick compared to me/us, we feel like we are faster but are not due to smoothness. The demo driver is so smooth which is what makes him fast.
I'm no sim racing or tuning expert, just a car enthusiast... but I've probably spent about five times as much time tuning some of my favorite cars in time trials than actually racing and I have to agree with you on the fact that you need to make multiple builds/tunes to test yourself before settling for your favorite. From what I've found, G force is important but not if it's at the cost of low speed stability, which I personally prioritize in all of my MR & FR tunes. I tune the lsd and gear ratios together first(+detune if necessary), camber second, body height & downforce third, adjust the anti-roll bars, and then lastly I fine tune the power restrictor/ecu & ballast to get the pp as close as possible to the desired limit without ruining the stability. It might take a while to find the sweet spot.
I do a lot of set up testing using the Trial Mountain Cup. It's two two-lap races and you can make adjustments in between races. So, for four laps you make around $100k... or something like that.
@@lobotomyscam1051 I also like to test all my cars on Trial Mountain, however I eventually opted to doing time trials since the Cup limits you to only American models.
one possible wrinkle between the PP system and what we experience by 'feel' could be the controller. the game, like any decent driving game that supports gamepads, does a lot of "filtering" on your left stick inputs to help make your car controllable and predictable in most situations. for example, one of those ways is limiting your steering input through a turn if the game "thinks" you are going to understeer if the steering input increases any more at that particular moment. 99% of the time that is the most reasonable thing to do, however it's not always that simple when testing something like maximum cornering on track.
Great analysis. Could be the human driver keeps pulling through the turn, more G, more body roll, and eventually the high camber setup gets its tyres planted flat for max grip. But a simulated lap, the AI would already have chickened out and therefore can't utilise the higher camber. Also, even if the simulation is somehow accurate, its presumably stating *peak* lateral G, not average through the turn. That's a whole can o'worms but the highest average G should beat a momentary high peak G. A strategy I sometimes use is to tune using the Stability stats. Add rear camber until you get the most understeer (most rear grip means least oversteer = most understeer). Then add front camber until it gets to its local minimum for understeer (most front grip = least understeer). These camber values are sometimes different from the Max G ones. Food for thought.
Thanks to your videos i mostly ignore the telemetry on the tuning screen, and tune purely on feel, i got a supra A90 very solid, it has 0.8 and 1.4 camber, wich i would have never tried by myself because for years and years i have always ran more camber in the front and low at the back in racing games. But i absolutely agree that PD needs to put in a telemetry while driving to support these numbers, and add a bit of logic to all this chaos.
I uploaded a video on my channel with the setup, it's the PP550 version, if you want to see the setup of the higher PP version aswell then let me know !
You should look at ride height. If I put the front at lowest and rear on highest, I get the maximum pp and lateral grip from a Ferrari... Like 80mm front and 150mm rear. If I lower the rear to the lower limit I lose like 8pp. I'm testing it out in trial to see what the practical difference is.
yeah man. There are some buggy things with that Rotational G sim. Horsepower plays a factor into as well for some reason. Dropping 100HP will drop the low speed G by 0.4 on my 996GT3. adding some downforce can reduce. then go up another 2lbs and it adds more back in. makes no sense sometimes.
...as far as I know, it was said somewhere that calculations were made on a streight part of test track, measuring corner speeds. Not sure about transmission though...
This is a great video but the problem I'm having is that the numbers doesn't change when I'm using the suspension tuning. Nothing goes up or down basically.
Aye I've heard because of gt physics running higher camber on the road cars doesn't actually help, I played a bit with this theory and it does seem the less camber the more grip you get wierd
I’ve been messing with Blue Moon bay to try and tune a car to take turns above 150 using the rotational G numbers. I wish it registered 200+ as well on the G calculator. Any chance when you do the next video discussing this topic again, camber and toe, if you could run some Blue Moon specifically to demonstrate the grip with GR3 cars specifically in the final turn. So far I’ve only found one GR3 car that can take the final turn flat out. Just curious if you can tweak the numbers to get more grip than myself.
Do you think that setup will work on the Atenza Gr.3 car as well..? Do you race any of the daily races...? Also I want to give you the heads up since I update last night if you go to tracks like Tokyo express, Deep forest and do the track experience challenge and it's paying stupid money 1 million to get 4 golden trophies... You can make 20 million in a couple of hours... Great video!!!
Didn’t you use to play Forza? LMR Harmonic maybe? Or AMR harmonic? Anyway, I’ve seen you at a top of a few leaderboards in Forza, if that’s you. It’s interesting you’ve come over to Gran Turismo.
Hey man I've been following your guides closely really trying to dial in some settings for that Porsche Carrera rs the 93 model. I'm having a hard time getting any stability without having to add any ballast. How willing would you be to have a look for me
You can, but the rear camber will typically be a lot lower than the front. I tuned a Supra and Viper Gr.4 on this track, and they also wanted more camber despite the game saying they pulled higher rotational G with less.
Hard to trust anything in this game. When they pack in and push so hard for microtransactions who know how much they have fudged things to frustrate people. Crap handling mid engine cars is a prime example. They will probably bring out a bunch of new gen mid engine cars that feel great to drive and try charging us a ton to get them. It's the only logical reason I can think of to explain why they drive so bad. I mean project cars 2 in the middle of last gen consoles all worked fine. Honestly that game shits all over GT7. Pretty sure they even had the GT3 488 back then. 6 years later and GT7 doesn't even have that car!.... good video btw :)
There are licensing issues in regards to modelling cars. Crap handling mid engine cars is a prime example.. ? I guess it depends on how u want to tune it. Project cars 2 had a lot of flaws in the driving experience, like Kerbs, FFB etc.
I for one appreciate how you explain things. Today I learned about how Camber, grip, and downforce are related.
Great video, I think you're right, the numbers are based on a simulated lap or a selection of generic corner(s).
in reality a racer/driver can find laptime by driving a car beyond its safe optimum which can change the shape of corners to generate a better laptime.
Yep! The numbers are only as good as the virtual driver running the simulation
@@Harmonic14 no substitute for actual testing.
Just requires the time! 🤣
I have a theory as to how they get their numbers based on what we already know. You say it is a fictitious track absolutely, but I don't think it accounts for how hard a human will drive the car in-game. If you look at demonstrations in License Tests and how accurately they force the AI to drive, how the AI drives in the game, I assume that's how it would simulate the G numbers, to those limits. I don't think the AI would be beneficial if it threw itself into a corner like some of us do and had to figure out how to correct it, it'll only go for the line that has the most grip with the least amount of error thus using less speed. Just a theory but I thought about it and there are quite a few holes to this one.
I think you may have a good point.
When doing things like the Licence Tests and watch the demo car, The demo car looks and sounds slow but in fact is quick compared to me/us, we feel like we are faster but are not due to smoothness.
The demo driver is so smooth which is what makes him fast.
I'm no sim racing or tuning expert, just a car enthusiast... but I've probably spent about five times as much time tuning some of my favorite cars in time trials than actually racing and I have to agree with you on the fact that you need to make multiple builds/tunes to test yourself before settling for your favorite.
From what I've found, G force is important but not if it's at the cost of low speed stability, which I personally prioritize in all of my MR & FR tunes.
I tune the lsd and gear ratios together first(+detune if necessary), camber second, body height & downforce third, adjust the anti-roll bars, and then lastly I fine tune the power restrictor/ecu & ballast to get the pp as close as possible to the desired limit without ruining the stability. It might take a while to find the sweet spot.
I do a lot of set up testing using the Trial Mountain Cup. It's two two-lap races and you can make adjustments in between races. So, for four laps you make around $100k... or something like that.
@@lobotomyscam1051 Good idea, Is there a PP limit on the race you mention? If so do you know what the PP limit is?
@@lobotomyscam1051 I also like to test all my cars on Trial Mountain, however I eventually opted to doing time trials since the Cup limits you to only American models.
one possible wrinkle between the PP system and what we experience by 'feel' could be the controller. the game, like any decent driving game that supports gamepads, does a lot of "filtering" on your left stick inputs to help make your car controllable and predictable in most situations. for example, one of those ways is limiting your steering input through a turn if the game "thinks" you are going to understeer if the steering input increases any more at that particular moment. 99% of the time that is the most reasonable thing to do, however it's not always that simple when testing something like maximum cornering on track.
I think there is way less to none filtering with motion controls
Great analysis. Could be the human driver keeps pulling through the turn, more G, more body roll, and eventually the high camber setup gets its tyres planted flat for max grip. But a simulated lap, the AI would already have chickened out and therefore can't utilise the higher camber.
Also, even if the simulation is somehow accurate, its presumably stating *peak* lateral G, not average through the turn. That's a whole can o'worms but the highest average G should beat a momentary high peak G.
A strategy I sometimes use is to tune using the Stability stats. Add rear camber until you get the most understeer (most rear grip means least oversteer = most understeer). Then add front camber until it gets to its local minimum for understeer (most front grip = least understeer). These camber values are sometimes different from the Max G ones. Food for thought.
Love to see the trick you mentioned for controller on hairpins. Great video here as always
Is this a low key response to HamSandwich's rant? Love your educational clips mate!
Thanks to your videos i mostly ignore the telemetry on the tuning screen, and tune purely on feel, i got a supra A90 very solid, it has 0.8 and 1.4 camber, wich i would have never tried by myself because for years and years i have always ran more camber in the front and low at the back in racing games. But i absolutely agree that PD needs to put in a telemetry while driving to support these numbers, and add a bit of logic to all this chaos.
Whats the rest of that supra setup
@@danielstokker What do you want to know ? Anything specific, the whole setup ? I have two different versions, one around 625 and one made for 550.
@@MrShadowofthewind I would like to know the whole setup man. Been trying to tune my but it's tricky.
I uploaded a video on my channel with the setup, it's the PP550 version, if you want to see the setup of the higher PP version aswell then let me know !
Oh and please let me know what you think of it !
Really appreciate the time you put in! You are a valuable resource!
Not one to comment often but this is some great content my dude. Keep it up!
Keep them coming 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾 Thanks for your guys like you taking the guestwork out of this which is a fun and challenging thing to set up these cars
You make this game so much easier. I'm glad I found you and make sure to let some ads play through because you're more Boss than Springsteen.
You should look at ride height. If I put the front at lowest and rear on highest, I get the maximum pp and lateral grip from a Ferrari... Like 80mm front and 150mm rear. If I lower the rear to the lower limit I lose like 8pp. I'm testing it out in trial to see what the practical difference is.
yeah man. There are some buggy things with that Rotational G sim. Horsepower plays a factor into as well for some reason. Dropping 100HP will drop the low speed G by 0.4 on my 996GT3. adding some downforce can reduce. then go up another 2lbs and it adds more back in. makes no sense sometimes.
...as far as I know, it was said somewhere that calculations were made on a streight part of test track, measuring corner speeds. Not sure about transmission though...
Great vid, good explanation
Nice that PD may see this and correct mistakes
This is a great video but the problem I'm having is that the numbers doesn't change when I'm using the suspension tuning. Nothing goes up or down basically.
To be fair, I've never looked at the numbers, I've always adjusted things and tested myself.
Very informing, keep up the good work.
Yeah it does represent a good baseline, but I agree don't trust it 100%, testing yourself is the best method.
God
Aye I've heard because of gt physics running higher camber on the road cars doesn't actually help, I played a bit with this theory and it does seem the less camber the more grip you get wierd
I’ve been messing with Blue Moon bay to try and tune a car to take turns above 150 using the rotational G numbers. I wish it registered 200+ as well on the G calculator. Any chance when you do the next video discussing this topic again, camber and toe, if you could run some Blue Moon specifically to demonstrate the grip with GR3 cars specifically in the final turn. So far I’ve only found one GR3 car that can take the final turn flat out. Just curious if you can tweak the numbers to get more grip than myself.
Do you think that setup will work on the Atenza Gr.3 car as well..? Do you race any of the daily races...? Also I want to give you the heads up since I update last night if you go to tracks like Tokyo express, Deep forest and do the track experience challenge and it's paying stupid money 1 million to get 4 golden trophies... You can make 20 million in a couple of hours... Great video!!!
Would be cool to see your tune for the merc clk, thanks.
Where do you see the rotational G number in the car settings? I never knew it was there
Good stuff. Keep it up bro
The Amuse S2000 is a weird one, It really likes high rear camber.
Have you thought about designing and creating a flow chart for beginner players who do not know what effects what on the car in gt7?
Didn’t you use to play Forza? LMR Harmonic maybe? Or AMR harmonic? Anyway, I’ve seen you at a top of a few leaderboards in Forza, if that’s you. It’s interesting you’ve come over to Gran Turismo.
That is me! My GT is just iiHarmonic now
Hey man I've been following your guides closely really trying to dial in some settings for that Porsche Carrera rs the 93 model. I'm having a hard time getting any stability without having to add any ballast. How willing would you be to have a look for me
Does someone has a stetup for the 300sl, 3.0csl or skyline gt 1000?
For Alsace Endurance Race. 😫
Got replay in gt7 you should watch keyword 666
watch black SLR
Like deployed 👍
😎🎙🏎✅
They're probably using a flat skid pad. too many variables with real tracks.
well that sucks then :/ alll the setups I done are useless now :D
Not necessarily! It's very possible that they're still optimized. Some quick testing will tell you for sure though
You can't do that on fr cars
You can, but the rear camber will typically be a lot lower than the front. I tuned a Supra and Viper Gr.4 on this track, and they also wanted more camber despite the game saying they pulled higher rotational G with less.
@@Harmonic14 I'll look into it tomorrow when the daily races change. Spa is undriveable with the track limits
Hard to trust anything in this game. When they pack in and push so hard for microtransactions who know how much they have fudged things to frustrate people. Crap handling mid engine cars is a prime example. They will probably bring out a bunch of new gen mid engine cars that feel great to drive and try charging us a ton to get them. It's the only logical reason I can think of to explain why they drive so bad. I mean project cars 2 in the middle of last gen consoles all worked fine. Honestly that game shits all over GT7. Pretty sure they even had the GT3 488 back then. 6 years later and GT7 doesn't even have that car!.... good video btw :)
There are licensing issues in regards to modelling cars.
Crap handling mid engine cars is a prime example.. ? I guess it depends on how u want to tune it.
Project cars 2 had a lot of flaws in the driving experience, like Kerbs, FFB etc.
I never trust MPH