The Internet (+ Adam Ondra) Reacts To Jakob's Schubert B.I.G. 9c | Climbing Daily Ep.2132
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 7 июн 2024
- All Edelrid Gear is back in stock with up to 15% OFF - bit.ly/3PG3Nl6
Welcome back to the Wednesday News Show where this week we unpack the 9c BOM. After 7 years we see the 3rd repetition of Alasha a king line in Mallorca and Adam Ondra himself is back in the 9b counter. Don't forget to leave a comment and who knows maybe you'll make it into the comment of the week section.
00:27 Jakob Schubert B.I.G. grade news
04:05 Michael Piccolruaz - Alasha
07:39 Seb Buoin Lapsus Italy's first 9b downgrade
08:30 Adam Ondra 9b News
10:08 Molly Thompson-Smith
10:43 Pete Whittaker - Mega trad project Crown Royale
12:28 9b counter
13:01 Shop Stuff - Edelrid is back in stock
14:42 EpicTV movie trailer
15:56 Comment of the week
Follow @epictvclimbing
Instagram: bit.ly/2iovWz1
Tik Tok: bit.ly/2yQNL4c
Facebook: bit.ly/3dKpI66
Twitter: bit.ly/2Ww38VP
Twitch: bit.ly/2UbBgYv
Tribefy: bit.ly/3HUv1yu 
Спорт
![PIECE BY PIECE - Official Trailer [HD] - Only In Theaters October 11](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7Bc6trBc1kc/mqdefault.jpg)
Not even two handful of people on this planet have climbed 9b+ but plenty seem to know that B.I.G. is one. Fascinating.
Oh - BTW. If Adam just O-grades his routes nobody could - by definition - downgrade them.
The only objective grading scale
and that's a fact
This is getting old. Fast.
@@alvaroe7678 You might be right.
You have to remember Jakob is in pretty much peak form at the moment. Comps in the last year or two he has looked so strong, so it might not require months of suffering to be a 9c. But what do i know, I'm a pure boulderer for 30 years, i have the power endurance of a cabbage.
😅
He struggled pretty hard on Es Pontas recently, also sleepwalker. He should be onsighting 9a's to send 9c so quickly, but I think his best was an 8c+ in 2016. The data doesn't suggest he's on a new level by any means. He's one of the strongest out there for sure, don't get me wrong. But it seemed like he was in peak form when he slaughtered the La Capella wall right after the Olympics. B.I.G. looked like a struggle for him. If he wants to prove something he should do a quick repeat Silence or onsight any 9a+ IMO.
@@chazottNa,
La Capella: Adam: 9 days, Megos: 6 days, Schubert: 4 tries
Doing 9b faster than anyone in history is more than enough to propose 9c, and the data definitely does suggest that he's on a new level.
Also onsighting skill doesn't have that strong of a carryover to projecting stuff, so it shouldn't be used as a predictive metric here. Seb's onsights are way worse than Ondra's, however he has more hard sends than Ondra.
@@La0bouchere La Capella is 9a+ until the recent break, long after Schubert's ascent. Ondra flashed 9a+. And yes, I agree that onsighting is only a good indicator for certain climbers, but Jakob is one of them. This was his first project in his own words, nothing like the experience of Seb or Stefano or Martin Keller. And I think you need to read Ondra's tick list again, it's by far the most impressive in history.
I completely agree with chazott, Jacob has never looked as strong as Ondra, Stephano or Megos. Nor does he have the ticks they have either. I think the grade will definitely come down. Ondra is just playing it cool atm waiting for someone else to downgrade it trying not to upset Jacob.
"Its a bird its a plane", is a reference to Superman you dopes! Stephano was complimenting him on his incredible strength.
I think if you'll find if you turn the letters upside down, apply the 'Caeser Shift', and play the recording backwards on a 1922 Collora Gramphone, it should play something in the region of 'Jakob, I'm coming to get you, lots of love, Stefano'
No
The only people’s opinions that matter on grades are the ascensionists.
I love your sticker 😍 (and great coverage as always!)
Great coverage guys!! I mean, as armchair observers, who are we to say what the grade is or isn't 😆 I liked what Jakob shared over on his profile on The Crag. He brought up a really good point that our overall understanding of what constitutes a 9b+ or 9c is still developing. Especially with so few routes that have been repeated at these grades. Time will tell as more people climb B.I.G. and the other 9cs!
Totally agreed. The current "rule" seems to be: If you've climbed 9b+ before and you're in absolute world class form and it's your hardest route yet, you propose 9c. Sounds fair to me. Time will tell if these grades stand, so far none of the 9cs have been repeated.
@@chabum81 good call! Which 9c do you think will get repeated first?
@@augustclimbingsilence
@@Miles26545 I hope Stefano can pull it off!!
I can't grade a route I haven't climbed. But I can check someone's reasoning for consistency and logic. Jakob's reasoning is not in line with what those know who have seen all live attempts: When he sent, he got cold conditions, and the sloper before the crux quite dry. Same on the attempt before. He told into the camera that he could rest on the hold when it's like this, which he couldn't do before. He rested there on the send for 30 secs, 3 shakes each arm I think. This looked very much like the game changer for success. When falling at/after the crux, he estimated the route 9C (he told into the camera once, after a fall!) which should be fine, who am I to disagree? But as a matter of fact he found a new cold-condition-new/longer-rest-beta, which lead to success, I mean that's what he said in one of earlier videos. This new beta makes the route easier, there can not be any doubt about that, I mean that's what a beta is for. This doesn't mean it's not 9C.. again, what do I know? But it's inconsistent that his reasoning takes into account his falls/problems before finding the new beta, but then ignores it when he puts out such a bold and in some ways surprising statement.
I hate the way this went down: now there are just so many annoying nerds on the internet screaming aCTuAlLy ItS nOT 9c beCAUsE…
You couldnt even do the 7a up the ramp to get to the route so maybe stfu for once. You havent done the route you are just looking at a video and saying „this doesnt look hard enough for 20 grades above my level“
You did ok on the comment of the week song Hugo, thanks to the guitar part. The get even a better score I’d suggest you make the singing sound less emo punk and a bit more hardcore punk. But hey, great effort!
Wow, I made it to the "comments of the week"! And I realize I need to change handle 😂
Tinfoil application on the holds on a DWS route? That's a new one to me!
Yeah whaaaat?!
Eternit: If holds on a route are "modified" by humans, isn't the intent to make the route easier, not harder? (9a pre-modifid - 9a+ post-modified). Does this make sense?
I'd say they're often made to be consistent with the rest of the route, unless you're just trying to trash the route
What does Hugo whispers at 17:22 ?
🤣🤣🤣
Hey! Why's Terri so surprised that Hugo made a good point?
Well, he indeed made a good point. Maybe she is just surprised because she thinks she wouldn’t have thought about it. Idk!
Anyway, the point was good but the tides in the Mediterranean are very small (~0,5m), barely noticeable, since it’s mostly surrounded by land and almost not affected by the tides of the ocean.
💚 Edelrid aren't expensive, I'm just poor.❤ Funniest memes 🤣
That's great
I think B.I.G was a 9c because it looks really really hard! And Jakob is really strong lately so maybe silence considering how long Adam took on it might be 9c+. Just saying
I think Silence is just very very specific climb that really fits Adam.
+adam didnt top big
We give grades now based on whats looking nice yes? So the 7A Boulder i did the other day was actually 9A, because it sounds nicer for me. Ridiculous opionion honestly... obivously this route is worlds easier than Silence or DNA....
As someone who has climbed V4 I am an authority on this subject. Allow me to offer my analysis:
Read more...
No one’s down grading silence anytime soon 😂
When 4 people have climwbd it one wont be able to resist downgrading it because he wasnt first ro climb it.. its a pitty magnus cant take revenge for thors hammer. That would be an epic revange for downgrading his majestic route in the same crack in his homecountry
I think if you take in to account how many 9b+ routes jakob has climbed.. I think he know what a 9b+ is.. and so will other 9b+ climbers that come and repeat it so will soon see. I think if anything maybe it just means silence is a 9c+ and big is actually a 9c. Silence is clearly harder.. maybe ondra is just that far ahead when it comes to outdoor sport climbing. Perspective 😉✌
Actually Schubert climbed ""only"" 1 confirmed 9b+ (perfecto mundo) - he himself downgraded king capella to 9b (to be fair, he downgrades quite a lot of hard routes he climbs😂)
@@gba.87 fair enough haha but this does mean that he knows the grade and he obviously thought it was a step up.. maybe Stefano needs to climb it for a second opinion. Can you see my thinking tho? Lol
@@sirsendalot yes, sure! Actually if you look at Jakob's history of downgrades you can easily see that he normally finds stuff to be easy (i.e. he's super strong), so if he struggled on BIG while probably being in the best shape of his life that obviously means the route is pretty hard.
It would be super cool if he now moved to DNA, which he tried last year, to have a fresh comparison!
@@gba.87 yeah sure that's got to mean somthing. I think ondra needs to send it see what he would say!! If jakob went back to DNA and sent it that would be awesome 👀 tag him gaga
@@sirsendalot I don't think Silence could be 9c+, since it took Adam only a few more weeks than LDD. Grading is a range, and within a single grade the hardest route will still be almost a full grade harder than the easiest.
If anything is 9c+ it's DNA though. The difference between that and Seb's 9b+ sends is way larger than Silence and Adam's 9b+ sends
Pushing a new grade is a BIG deal. Only a few people can climb these grades and the last 10 years have multiple people done them the same year. Grade creep is real and the hardest climbs should be put to the test. Just because something is hard doesn’t mean it is hard for every one, just look at golf.
If in doubt, sandbag
Good point 😉
thank you!! this is the way its been done for decades, until insta...
Did I miss something or has the Wednesday News show been cancelled or what?
Adam agreed with the grade but ofc you use the opposite in the thumbnail that both him and Jakob discussed before the send xD
I mean, Adam literally said "routes should be graded under perfect conditions" and "9a+ into soft 8a+ with some rest in between might not sound like a 9c to me" So I understand that Ondra doesn't really agree with the grade, but he is not going to openly say it I guess
@@Drulynx this is what he said "All things considered, I support Jakob's 9c proposition. The only other possible solution is a slash grade. However, I think this amazing route deserves a nice grade, too" and considering he didnt even do it, his opinion means as much as any other 9b+ climber.
@@SCOclimbing That's a fair point
Am I wrong? I thought that silence was the only 9C but Terri said that BIG is the worlds 3rd 9C…..Bibliographie was downgraded to 9B+ so silence is the only 9C and now BIG, correct?
there is DNA by Seb Bouin too I think
Seb Bouin has the second one, it's called DNA
DNA
How fitting that Italy's first 9b+ became Italy's first 9b. Ironic...Stefano Ghisolfi could downgrade others...but could not save himself from the downgrade...
Still excalibur stands as first 9b+ in italy and fa by stefano
@@polgonzalezsierras4417 Italy's first 9b+ was formerly Erebor, now 9b
Jakob is fucking strong. Even stronger for sure than Adam and Seb and Stefano in terms of pure power. (No disrespect to the later 3 ) I mean its a 9c ..
Hugo is so negative, bring back Matt!
Just found this channel. I get some serious vibes that these two are Exes.
Well, you're wrong.
Or am I? @@masterpropper2485
What’s the estimated grade without help of a kneepad😊?
Kneepads are here to stay 😉
I'm sad to see the disgraceful dis on Ondra in this video. He hasn't graded the route, only confirmed its not as hard as others he's done. Dude is a legend and the best climber in the history of the sport, by far, and does not deserve a subtle dis for his honest opinion. Let's not forget who put in all the work to envision and bolt this line along with the other hard routes of the crag. Jakob's inexperience at this grade and at this crag is not mentioned. Jakob himself said this was his first time really projecting a route, so clearly he's not experienced with this process. And of course, no one is experienced with the added pressure that comes from a livestream. I did love the call out for Stefano to "give his honest opinion" haha! But never dis Ondra on a climbing channel, come on.
Adam Ondra is the world's strongest backseat grader 🙄
It's nice how you highlighted the last part of his Instagram post, but conveniently left out the majority of it where he disparages the difficulty of the route -- despite not having sent it in 10 years. You can tell AO wrote it himself, and not his team, given the amount of shade that made it to that post.
Like a wise man once said: "It's not a hard route, just hard to climb!"
they do it for the clicks.
what a disgusting thumbnail lol
Is it just me, or are there really uncomfortable, almost hostile vibes between them, at times?
it's not easy watching
its just hugos dry wit and ascorbic style, it's very English so if you are not from here or its not your primary language I can understand why it may seem hostile.
@@mindblown42069this! Too subtle obviously
just you
I think, perhaps like myself, he is surprised at the nonsense that isn't funny and just keeps coming. She's like watching a gardener report on athletics or a bricklayer report on baking. Both possible, but unlikely to be chosen in place of an expert. She seems like a good sort regardless. Hugh was like that with Matt when he started. Matt clearly knew little about climbing, including famous climbers and areas etc. Hugh often gave that look of, "how can you not know that, reporting on a climbing show?"
I hate all this downgrade fanboy stuff. It's all just a bunch of "har har har nudge nudge" like we're chasing the Cardashians or yelling at the football players from our armchair.
This is perhaps the first time the kardashians have been mentioned in a Climbing Daily comments section, and if it was on last weeks show, for sure it would have been comment of the week 👏