I had a 10" Dewalt compound miter saw for around 12 years (light duty). It still works great ruclips.net/user/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe but I wanted something bigger. My only complaint about the 10" was the location of the motor, and this version fixes that issue. The XPS system works well. My only request for future versions is a dust collection port (or adapter) that fits large shop vac hoses (or standard PVC pipe fittings) a little better. But that's not a complaint, just a request.
By far the best review for power tools that I have seen. Covered all the improvements from the previous version. very comprehensive description of the features and fantastic demonstrations. Amazing content. thanks
Just bought a 185 version of it, thanks to your review .Weather is shit so did not try it yet , but can not wait. Nice ,professional video , thanks and good luck.
Just assembled mine before watching video of assembly and use. It gives me a great piece of mind that I chose the right product and assembled it in line with both videos...very good and informative.
Thank you for the detailed in depth overview, which I watched after assembley. Assembley was easy without instructions. Your review has given me all knowledge I had not already understood, such as (1) set-up adjustment to 90 and 45 deg, and location of the set-up stops, and (2) set-up for specific depth cuts. I will revisit this video if the saw ever gets stored for any length of time.
Just bought one of these, along with the bench - wish I'd watched this video first, those setup and calibration tips are gold. One thing I did notice is the main blade screw has some play in it as I tighten it up (my makita circular saw blade screw does the same). Obviously the screw doesn't move once it's tight, but it doesn't seem quite central when it's spinning (visually off center, slight wobble). The blade itself does NOT wobble whilst running. This behaviour may be normal, but is slightly disconcerting. Trial cuts seem fine, and I've done a bunch of skirting/architrave without issue. Just wondering if this screw thing is normal/expected?
I've never owned a mitre saw before or even attempted to set one up. Just wanted to say thanks for this video, it really helped when setting up this saw for the first time. Cheers.
Hi Russell. Thank you so much for making this video. I've just recently purchased this saw, and it's a major upgrade to an old and very basic mitre saw. You explained everything I needed to know to confidentiality use it properly. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Russell you are really a clear speaker and obviously have experience I have the much smaller evolution mitre saw and need to upgrade for larger wood projects this vid gives me confidence especially using it for metals and stone which I know it can do but haven’t tried, that box metal section has me convinced Evolution saws present value for money.
Evolution are always improving their range and this saw is a great all rounder that is capable of accurate work. The multi purpose blade is extremely versatile and I will happily cut mild steel with it and move onto wood. You will love the extra cutting capabilities of the sliding saw. Take the time to check the angles and set up the saw if necessary. Good luck with your projects! :-)
Hello Russell and well done for making a clear and informative video. I have just purchased one of these saws virtually on the strength of your efforts. But you never mention the laser and how to adjust it. I find the laser very helpful, I just hope it lasts and doesn't give up the ghost on me. I do have one criticism of the saw and that is that when you unlock the head to lower it into work it is so easy to start the motor at the same time. When ready to start your cut it doesn't matter but I usually lower the saw just to see that it will clear things like the clamp (when cutting a bevel) etc. It is the natural way to hold the saw, thumb in the front to release the head but the remainder of the hand through the D shaped handle. I have got used to holding the palm of my hand away from the trigger but I think it could be better designed. Well done and thank you.
I know, I completely forgot to mention the laser. I did have a look at it and it did not need adjusting but I was going to show the adjustments and somehow I just forgot about it. How strange that you do not like the handle arrangement, it is one of the features I like best about the new saws. I do not have to think about what each button does like I did with the older saws. Mind you, it would be a very boring world if we all thought the same things. Thank you for taking the time to post a comment. :-)
Hello again Russell. I just thought I would tell you something that will demonstrate how stupid I can be at times ! With reference to my comments above regarding pulling the starting trigger accidentally I found out at the weekend why I was having what was this very slight problem. I discovered that I had got the clamp that locks the sliding motion just ever so lightly screwed up. This in turn meant that when I pulled the saw towards me prior to releasing the up/down catch if I wasn't careful the saw would start because it was taking a bit more effort than it should. The sliding action wasn't clamped, it wasn't fully loose if that makes sense. I just undid the clamp about 1 turn and the saw flies backwards and forwards now. Memo to self. Must try harder !! Thanks again.
That is something that could catch anyone out! If you have not used the saw without any friction on the slide you will not realise that there is some resistance. The good thing is that you sussed it out and stopped the issue. I hope you enjoy using the saw and your projects turn out how you want them to. :-)
Thank you Russell. Actually I bought the saw for a specific reason and I am pleased with the outcome. My better half saw some planters made out of decking and decided that she would like one. I am not a wood worker, I would rather work with steel anyday. But I needed something that would cut a decent bevel for the corners. This takes a bit of setting up to make a decent job because of the corrugated nature of decking. (plus the fact that I discovered that decking can be warped longitudinally quite badly !!) However the end result was that I made 5 planters. 3 of one size and 2 more of different sizes. I am now flavour of the month in our household !
Eh? 33.9° & 31.6 ° ? Can I suggest a short demo of using these compound cut setups showing the two cut mouldings fitting together. I looked at a few other demos on here but none showed the finished joint.
Best Mitre saw i have purchased over the years, great for wood, aluminium and mild steel. Would avoid the diamond blade for brick as the mitre doesn't have enough kick and from the video you could see it losing power. Nice work on the calibration, you make me wonder if its worth me ditching my full size for a tiny one.
You've convinced me im going out to buy one today thanks for the review you did a great job of ahowing it off I hope they give you more tools to review I'm subscribing and staying tuned.
Lee, is there any play on the up/down hinged part? I bought the Rage 3s 2 years ago and used it very little. Dreamed of being a hobbyist but never had time due to work. Now that I have time I've started to use and used this guys other video to set it up for accuracy. To be honest, it must have been well set at the factory because it's about as square as it's possible to be so it. I've noticed it has a 3 year warranty so I'm going to be cheeky and ask Screwfix to swap/upgrade it but not sure what to go for. Cheers, Andy
Excellent review - looking to buy one and the hold up was I want it to do light metalwork and brick as well as wood - your review helped me alot - thank you for the time to put this together.
I think mine might not be quite the same model and I like it very much. However, trying to add a secondary fence, I realise that the supplied fences were not in line. More importantly the left fence back was not 90* to its base. Also there is no gap for the sawdust so after each cut you have to blow the sawdust away. I gave up on the secondary fence. It’s good enough for rough joinery but to get the end of the wood square you need a shooting board or a well set up edge sander. There is a small bit of angular play in the detents. Still I’m not prepared to buy a Festool or DeWalt. Overall, great value but not perfect. You get what you pay for. I use it a lot and the stand is ideal.
I use the R255SMS and my fence was knocked out of alignment Jim. I straightened mine using a cast iron saw table top that was perfectly flat and some careful manipulation. It has been fine since. :-)
I have no issues with any of mine. They are also pretty cheap. I did ruin two blades trying to cut some steel that the blades were not designed for. :-)
Can’t recall the number of times I’ve accidentally started the saw when releasing the guard and pulling down to eye a cut…it’s touch sensitive and IMO a really bad design element. Despite that, great saw at the price, recently purchased (2024) for £120. Good review, thanks for your efforts.
Great review. Can you help me with two points please?. First of all the depth cut is a bit confusing. I tried it today and it seems that unless you use a seperate timber to move the piece you wish to channel out away from the fence it is not possible to get a flat bottomed groove - unless im missing something of course. Secondly, you state that the blade is rock solid with no movement but on my saw I have quite a lot of rocking play on the blade itself. Am I doing something wrong?. Thanks in advance.
Hi Andrew. First of all, after the first set of cuts you have to turn the wood around so that the raised part of the grove is furthest away from the fence and finish the cutting to flatten it out. As for the blade, it should not move laterally unless forced. I can move my blade a little if I use force but it springs bacl as soon as I let go. :-)
Hi Russell. Bought this after all. Thanks for your numerous films. I have a question....will my power tools be OK in my wooden shed in these freezing conditions? I'm hoping they won't seize up
They will be fine Cheryl. So long as they remain dry. My garage is freezing too. There is a gap above and below the sliding doors and the wind just blows through! :-)
Hi Russell I've just watched your review on this mitre saw. I have inmy amazon basket the 210sms+300. Is this one an upgrade of the one you reviewed 5 yes ago.?
It has a better cutting capacity Cheryl. 300mm instead of 255mm. The plus features are mentioned at the bottom of this page: shop.evolutionpowertools.com/products/r210sms300?gclid=Cj0KCQiAyracBhDoARIsACGFcS7BTTyxr9kKuej2VLWghTip1FeYvDRve96jPT55OdPLLsAsBm28JQcaAkQtEALw_wcB#features :-)
I can't decide between this mitre saw and the fury 3-s. Which one would you recommend for a beginner or would they be both around the same standard do you reckon?
Not sure if I missed it but usually with sliding decent priced mitre saws, they're flimsy and aren't very sturdy which means the you can nudge it out of position, is it the same with this mitre saw with the sliding arm?
Thanks very much for the review! Very comprehensive and well done. I'm very interested in buying one. I was wondering if the bevel cut goes further than 45 (I know it's listed as 45 max but the scale seems to go slightly beyond this from the video)?
The bevel is set at 45 degrees using the stop. I have just been and had a look at mine and it seems like there is a little more scope if you tighten the stop screw right in. If you remove the stop screw completely, it looks as if there is a lot of scope. I am not sure if there are any other physical stops built into the casting on the saw head though. :-)
I stopped using it when Evolution sent me the R255SMS 3 months later. I have been using the R255SMS regularly since then. I swapped the blade after a year or so and fitted a blade designed specifically for cutting wood. I used the R210SMS for a few small metal cutting jobs, but not enough to give the blade any real testing. So, I cannot say how long the blades last. I can say that the R255SMS has been a great saw and I use it a lot. I see no reason to think the R210SMS would be any different. I only have Evolution mitre saws in my workshop. :-)
Perfect review apart from forgetting the laser. Top marks though. My laser is slightly off despite my saw cutting correct angle so was hoping for this info but never mind
Hi Russell, super video. I’m in the market for a new mitre saw. Will the blade be too rough for laminate flooring. In the market for something I can use for multiple jobs; laminate flooring (obviously not when cutting length), skirting, shelving and cabinets. The actual box says able for laminate but wondering your opinion. Thanks
The blade is reasonable for wood cutting, but there is some tear out as the blade is a compromise to allow the cutting of steel and aluminium. In the video description there is a link to a cheap Saxton blade that I bought that gives a fine cut. The Evolution wood blades are also very good, but more expensive. If you do get the saw, make sure you check that it is set up correctly before using it. I have found that they occasionally need tweeking before first use. Here is a video I made on setting up the saw just in case: ruclips.net/video/nW2IKqYLxo0/видео.html I would try the multi-purpous blade before getting another Darren, you may find it is adequate for your needs. :-)
I have to say that is one of the best review videos I have ever watched on RUclips! I am off to buy myself one of these for a decking project I have lined up!
After 3 weeks of using this saw, it's generally been ok - light and powerful. But... yesterday when i came to use it, the laser was not lining up with the cut: out of parallel and off the cut by about 8mm. I didn't have time to sort it out on site, but today I got out the instructions and found the section on adjusting the laser on page 28. Now according to the instruction, there are two adjustments: one for sliding the beam side to side ( only about 5mm or so, ) and a small clamp screw on the circular housing for the laser itself - which (it says) is the one to adjust if the beam is not parallel to the path of the blade. After spending nearly an hour attempting to adjust this, in an attempt to get it parallel, I can state categorically - this instruction is completely incorrect. In fact, after slackening the clamp screw, all that enables you to do is rotate the beam around its own axis; there is no adjustment whatsoever, for aligning the beam with the blade's travel. This is actually achieved by slackening or tightening the OTHER TWO screws on the bracket - not obvious at first sight, it looks as if they are simply there to enable the bracket holding the laser to slide left or right. If you remove the bracket completely and look at the rear of it, you will notice a small ridge protruding from it, about 1.5mm deep. This allows the bracket to effectively 'rock' on the ridge, like a see-saw. moving the beam's direction. The bracket is plastic, and bends when tightened to anything near the torque you would expect to be necessary to remain in position - i.e. so as not to slacken off during use. This throws the beam out. What you have to do is follow the instructions about using the cardboard to mark where the blade's travel will be, then, with the cardboard in place, gently slacken or tighten either one or both screws in succession. Slackening the screw allows the beam to swing to the left; tightening it throws it to the right. After getting the beam right, you'll no doubt wonder (as I did) just how long it's going to stay that way, because the screws won't be very tight. I used a drop of polyurethane glue on each screw - I just hope it works, long term. It's a shame, because apart from this absolutely naff part of the design, there appears to have been quite a lot of thought gone into the saw itself and for under a hundred quid, it's still good value. The blade has only been used for wood (no nails) and to be honest, it really rags the back of the cut. The only way to avoid it is to 'score' the top surface lightly, in a forwards direction (like a crosscut) then work backwards. Again, not really a complaint: Evoulution have come up with a blade that cuts metal and wood - it's bound to be something of a compromise.
I have cut accurate mitres with the bevel John, make sure you check the angle and adjust if necessary as the saws do not always leave the factory with the angles set perfectly.
@@RussellPlatten You're not wrong there, I went out yesterday and bought one, put it together last night, which was all pretty much self explanatory, so you don't need the idiot guide. Then today I done a few cross cut's in some 4x2, all was good and it didn't need any adjustment, but I'll test it more thoroughly over the weekend. So overall I'm really happy with this saw, it's solid, looks good and the build quality is excellent, and an absolute bargain for £125, so a useful addition for both the professional and the DIYer alike 👍
Top review, bought this today after returning a cheaper other brand model at Screwfix, the manual is ok but you helped me get the saw spot on, nice piece of kit for my DIY, thanks for your review
Great review, watched after I brought one. Just 1 question, when I chop decking 120mm x 20mm the blade always leaves a bit of wood on the corner that it doesn't cut, do you know why this is please?
It sounds like you have the slide locked and need to use the sliding function to cut the decking. look at 10:07 on the video, I am cutting decking there. :-)
Great video Russell, I wanted to know which saw to get and actually have a question. I want to get either this or the R185SMS. I have a roll of paper which is quite thick to cut in half. The paper is 1.3 meters in length. It's a 50 meter roll of paper so you can imagine how thick it is. I have never used a mitre saw in my life and just researched it today because I've been told it can cut rolls of vinyl/paper etc. By the looks of it I don't think I can get cut straight through as the blade isn't big enough. Will I need to cut, then turn the roll, cut and repeat or do you think that it just can't be done? Thanks
@@RussellPlatten Thank you for the response. I already did this a day ago lol I needed to roll it and cut again as the diameter was too thick. There wasn't any danger. The only risk is that it would have ruined the roll but it's all good :)
Thank you for taking the time to comment Gareth. You won’t have to wait long for the saw as it comes on sale in January. Unfortunately, I do not know what the price is, but Evolution tend not to hike the prices up too much when they release new versions.
Hi. Nice review. Can you clarify how you actually mounted the SMS saw to the mitre table? It is no obvious from the manual, and the mitre table instructions predate the saw.
Hi David. At 1:14 on the video I mention the 4 holes in the base. The bolts for attaching the saw to the Mitre Saw Stand brackets are pushed through these. If you look at 3:33 on the video, you can see how the saw is mounted onto the brackets. The stand is supplied with the brackets and fittings. I hope this helps. :-)
I've just purchased the R210SMS + the stand. The bolts supplied with the stand are not hex headed like shown in your video. They are a round head, with a square below, then the thread. Did you have to purchase the bolts separately, or did your stand come supplied with the hex head bolts? Perhaps I have an old stocked stand with the wrong bolts?
Hi Nick, the stand came with coach bolts as you describe and I used M6 bolts I had in the garage. M6 bolts are extremely common and hopefully you will find some tucked away in your garage. I reckon the coach bolts will be fine though, if they are long enough. I will pass on your comment to Evolution and see what they say.
Coach bolts..that's the ones...couldn't think what they were called. I plan on calling them tomorrow. Really impressed with the product, just a bit disappointed the fixings are right for the saw... I'll see what they say and let you know.
My shop vac came with a power tool adapter and this fits the saw perfectly. I measured the outside diameter of the adapter and it is approximately 35mm. The nozzle on my shop vac also fits the port on the saw. I hope this helps.
Hi Russell I wonder if you can help I have mounted my 185 sliding evolution mitre saw on the evolution mitre stand only I can't to go all way to 45 degrees because mitre stand clamp stops it the only thing that solves this is bringing the Mitre saw forward so it doesn't catch it can you recommend a another' Way can you get back to me ASAP Thanks.
I am sorry Glynn, but I don't understand the issue. Can you try describing it in a different way? Are you talking about the black clamp/locking handle on the brackets that the saw is bolted on to?
@@RussellPlatten Hi Russell I sorting it out I saw your video on putting the Mitre saw on a piece of 47cm 24cm mdf and attaching it to clamp that go on the Evolution mitre stand I have ordered a 47cm x 25cm , 15mm thickness mdf to fit my mitre saw.
Could you please clarify the 150*65 mm specification for the maximum 45 degree mitre cut. Does that mean it can cut a piece 150 mm wide at 45 degrees, or is 150mm just the maximum length of the actual cut? My reason for asking is that I have a project that will involve cutting 150 mm wide oak planks at 45 degrees to make corner shelves and I want to know if this saw will do it.
Hi Lisa, this Saxton blade is supplied 25.4mm so it will fit the Evolution saw: amzn.to/2AsFWlW The multipurpose blade is fine for most uses, but the Saxton blade does give a cleaner cut.
Russell Platten cheers. Would you recommend as a starter mitre saw am looking at this or the R210cm non sliding one. Have you any experience with Einhall ones?
@@lisaporteous3689 Firstly, I do not have any experience with Einhall tools. As for what type of starter saw to go for, it depends on what you plan to do. The R210CMS is fine for cutting small stock, the R210SMS can cut much wider pieces. The R210CMS can cut 55mm x 125mm at 90 degrees, the R210SMS can cut 65mm x 230mm. If you intend to use your saw for more than just the odd small job, go for the sliding mitre saw, it is a far more versatile machine. :-)
@@lisaporteous3689 Glad I could help Lisa. Make sure you check and adjust your saw it necessary. Some of mine have needed adjustment out of the box. Good luck with your projects and please take when using your new saw! :-)
Hi Mario, I purchased a Saxon blade from Amazon, the blade has 80 teeth and cuts wood finely. Cheap too. They sell them with an insert for these saws. :-)
Hi can you help please i have same saw but after a cut my blade comes to a complete stop in 2 or 3 seconds unlike yours, do you think my blade maybe too tight?
Hi, the blade speed is not affected by how tight it is on the saw arbour. First of all, unplug your saw and once it is unplugged try turning the blade by hand. Mine has some resistance and will not actually spin round freely, but it is fairly easy to turn. Also, it should not be catching on anything. If yours is the same, I suspect that it is OK. Let me know how yours feels. I will contact Evolution and see what they say, they may have added a braking feature to the saw.
No problem 🙂. The depth is around 530mm. I have just been in to the garage and checked. If I push the sliding carriage all the way back so that it is ready to cut and leave 3 to 5mm between the back end of the sliding carriage and the wall; the base at it's furthest point is 530mm from the wall. I hope I have explained that correctly, just do you know how I came to that figure.
I would go for the R210SMS Antony, unless you only intend to cut smaller sized wood. Most people wish they had bought larger after they start using their saws more. :-)
I have the earlier model and found that the work hold down clamp under the motor gets in the way of the motor and therefore stops the full travel of the saw, has this fault been rectified on this new model?
I think it is manufactured like this to keep the cost down. It would need a much bigger base to resolve the issue. They do sell a horizontal clamp that allows workpiece clamping on either side of the blade: www.evolutionstore.co.uk/accessories/frontclamps/rage3s.php
There is a diamond blade available for the saw and it will certainly cut brick and tile. If others are using diamond blades to cut these materials it should be fine. :-)
I'm so disappointed with my Rage 3 S. Used your tips in another video and it was quite well set up but there is so much movement on the up/down hinged part. It has a large pin with a clip either end and what ever bushing there is in the middle, (if any) is loose. Doesn't appear to be any way to tighten or take the wobble out of it. Just as I'm getting to a standard where I need the accuracy. Anyone else have this problem.
I had a 10" Dewalt compound miter saw for around 12 years (light duty). It still works great ruclips.net/user/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe but I wanted something bigger. My only complaint about the 10" was the location of the motor, and this version fixes that issue. The XPS system works well. My only request for future versions is a dust collection port (or adapter) that fits large shop vac hoses (or standard PVC pipe fittings) a little better. But that's not a complaint, just a request.
:-)
Concise, accurate, cleary spoken review, just how a review should be done, excellent job!
Thank you Stephen. :-)
By far the best review for power tools that I have seen.
Covered all the improvements from the previous version. very comprehensive description of the features and fantastic demonstrations.
Amazing content. thanks
Glad I could help Daimian. Thank you for such a great comment! :-)
Think you forgot to mention the laser which you where going to talk about later
I have just purchased this saw.
Needed a quick calibration.
I have made very accurate cuts.
Good little saw I think.
The setup/adjustment guide was really useful, thanks for including that!
No problem! :-)
Great review !.. I have one but I really think they should supply a dust bag!... its a bit penny pinching....
Oh Lord, why can't all reviews be as good as this? Outstanding. Consider me subscribed !
Cheers Brian and thanks for Subscribing! :-)
Just bought a 185 version of it, thanks to your review .Weather is shit so did not try it yet , but can not wait. Nice ,professional video , thanks and good luck.
Thank you. Good luck with your projects and please take care when using it! :-)
Just purchased one last night, set up this morning & love it!
It is a great machine for the price Carl. :-)
Just assembled mine before watching video of assembly and use. It gives me a great piece of mind that I chose the right product and assembled it in line with both videos...very good and informative.
:-)
Thank you for the detailed in depth overview, which I watched after assembley.
Assembley was easy without instructions.
Your review has given me all knowledge I had not already understood, such as
(1) set-up adjustment to 90 and 45 deg, and location of the set-up stops, and
(2) set-up for specific depth cuts.
I will revisit this video if the saw ever gets stored for any length of time.
Glad I could help! :-)
Just bought one of these, along with the bench - wish I'd watched this video first, those setup and calibration tips are gold. One thing I did notice is the main blade screw has some play in it as I tighten it up (my makita circular saw blade screw does the same). Obviously the screw doesn't move once it's tight, but it doesn't seem quite central when it's spinning (visually off center, slight wobble). The blade itself does NOT wobble whilst running. This behaviour may be normal, but is slightly disconcerting. Trial cuts seem fine, and I've done a bunch of skirting/architrave without issue. Just wondering if this screw thing is normal/expected?
I've never owned a mitre saw before or even attempted to set one up. Just wanted to say thanks for this video, it really helped when setting up this saw for the first time. Cheers.
Glad I could help! :-).
Hi Russell. Thank you so much for making this video. I've just recently purchased this saw, and it's a major upgrade to an old and very basic mitre saw. You explained everything I needed to know to confidentiality use it properly. Keep up the good work.
Cheers Martin. :-)
Thanks Russell you are really a clear speaker and obviously have experience I have the much smaller evolution mitre saw and need to upgrade for larger wood projects this vid gives me confidence especially using it for metals and stone which I know it can do but haven’t tried, that box metal section has me convinced Evolution saws present value for money.
Evolution are always improving their range and this saw is a great all rounder that is capable of accurate work. The multi purpose blade is extremely versatile and I will happily cut mild steel with it and move onto wood. You will love the extra cutting capabilities of the sliding saw. Take the time to check the angles and set up the saw if necessary. Good luck with your projects! :-)
Hello Russell and well done for making a clear and informative video. I have just purchased one of these saws virtually on the strength of your efforts. But you never mention the laser and how to adjust it. I find the laser very helpful, I just hope it lasts and doesn't give up the ghost on me. I do have one criticism of the saw and that is that when you unlock the head to lower it into work it is so easy to start the motor at the same time. When ready to start your cut it doesn't matter but I usually lower the saw just to see that it will clear things like the clamp (when cutting a bevel) etc. It is the natural way to hold the saw, thumb in the front to release the head but the remainder of the hand through the D shaped handle. I have got used to holding the palm of my hand away from the trigger but I think it could be better designed. Well done and thank you.
I know, I completely forgot to mention the laser. I did have a look at it and it did not need adjusting but I was going to show the adjustments and somehow I just forgot about it. How strange that you do not like the handle arrangement, it is one of the features I like best about the new saws. I do not have to think about what each button does like I did with the older saws. Mind you, it would be a very boring world if we all thought the same things. Thank you for taking the time to post a comment. :-)
Hello again Russell. I just thought I would tell you something that will demonstrate how stupid I can be at times ! With reference to my comments above regarding pulling the starting trigger accidentally I found out at the weekend why I was having what was this very slight problem. I discovered that I had got the clamp that locks the sliding motion just ever so lightly screwed up. This in turn meant that when I pulled the saw towards me prior to releasing the up/down catch if I wasn't careful the saw would start because it was taking a bit more effort than it should. The sliding action wasn't clamped, it wasn't fully loose if that makes sense. I just undid the clamp about 1 turn and the saw flies backwards and forwards now.
Memo to self. Must try harder !! Thanks again.
That is something that could catch anyone out! If you have not used the saw without any friction on the slide you will not realise that there is some resistance. The good thing is that you sussed it out and stopped the issue. I hope you enjoy using the saw and your projects turn out how you want them to. :-)
Thank you Russell. Actually I bought the saw for a specific reason and I am pleased with the outcome. My better half saw some planters made out of decking and decided that she would like one. I am not a wood worker, I would rather work with steel anyday. But I needed something that would cut a decent bevel for the corners. This takes a bit of setting up to make a decent job because of the corrugated nature of decking. (plus the fact that I discovered that decking can be warped longitudinally quite badly !!)
However the end result was that I made 5 planters. 3 of one size and 2 more of different sizes. I am now flavour of the month in our household !
Glad it worked out. Always good to get a few brownie points in too!
I bought one today,your review is very good , you done a fantastic job putting the saw through its paces,👍
Cheers Joe! 👍
Very good review, today I bought this model in Romania and I want to test its capabilities as soon as I can.
:-)
Eh? 33.9° & 31.6 ° ? Can I suggest a short demo of using these compound cut setups showing the two cut mouldings fitting together. I looked at a few other demos on here but none showed the finished joint.
That is worth thinking about! :-)
Best Mitre saw i have purchased over the years, great for wood, aluminium and mild steel. Would avoid the diamond blade for brick as the mitre doesn't have enough kick and from the video you could see it losing power. Nice work on the calibration, you make me wonder if its worth me ditching my full size for a tiny one.
I would always choose a larger saw over a smaller one as the ability to cut larger sizes will definitely be appreciated over time! :-)
Just now learning of this product; I'm curious about availability & price in the U.S.; would anyone know. Many thanks!
You've convinced me im going out to buy one today thanks for the review you did a great job of ahowing it off I hope they give you more tools to review I'm subscribing and staying tuned.
Thank you. :-)
Just got one, well happy, also got the circular saw and that’s really good, best I have had so far
They are good value for money Lee. :-)
Lee, is there any play on the up/down hinged part? I bought the Rage 3s 2 years ago and used it very little. Dreamed of being a hobbyist but never had time due to work. Now that I have time I've started to use and used this guys other video to set it up for accuracy. To be honest, it must have been well set at the factory because it's about as square as it's possible to be so it. I've noticed it has a 3 year warranty so I'm going to be cheeky and ask Screwfix to swap/upgrade it but not sure what to go for.
Cheers, Andy
Andy Thurlow no play and it seemed set up and very accurate, can’t fault it. No doubt will buy more in the future, good luck.
Brilliant review which made my mind up,god knows why I waited so long to buy one as it is brilliant and has saved me loads of time.
I am glad that you like it Kevin. :-)
Excellent review - looking to buy one and the hold up was I want it to do light metalwork and brick as well as wood - your review helped me alot - thank you for the time to put this together.
Glad it was helpful! :-)
One of the most comprehensive reviews i have seen in a long time. Thank you
:-)
I think mine might not be quite the same model and I like it very much. However, trying to add a secondary fence, I realise that the supplied fences were not in line. More importantly the left fence back was not 90* to its base. Also there is no gap for the sawdust so after each cut you have to blow the sawdust away. I gave up on the secondary fence. It’s good enough for rough joinery but to get the end of the wood square you need a shooting board or a well set up edge sander. There is a small bit of angular play in the detents. Still I’m not prepared to buy a Festool or DeWalt. Overall, great value but not perfect. You get what you pay for. I use it a lot and the stand is ideal.
I use the R255SMS and my fence was knocked out of alignment Jim. I straightened mine using a cast iron saw table top that was perfectly flat and some careful manipulation. It has been fine since. :-)
Does the standard blade last long?
I have no issues with any of mine. They are also pretty cheap. I did ruin two blades trying to cut some steel that the blades were not designed for. :-)
Can’t recall the number of times I’ve accidentally started the saw when releasing the guard and pulling down to eye a cut…it’s touch sensitive and IMO a really bad design element.
Despite that, great saw at the price, recently purchased (2024) for £120.
Good review, thanks for your efforts.
Great review. Can you help me with two points please?. First of all the depth cut is a bit confusing. I tried it today and it seems that unless you use a seperate timber to move the piece you wish to channel out away from the fence it is not possible to get a flat bottomed groove - unless im missing something of course. Secondly, you state that the blade is rock solid with no movement but on my saw I have quite a lot of rocking play on the blade itself. Am I doing something wrong?. Thanks in advance.
Hi Andrew. First of all, after the first set of cuts you have to turn the wood around so that the raised part of the grove is furthest away from the fence and finish the cutting to flatten it out. As for the blade, it should not move laterally unless forced. I can move my blade a little if I use force but it springs bacl as soon as I let go. :-)
Not sure if you’ve done a set up video for the saw stand, but if not, could you please make one?
look at 7:35 on this video. :-)
Great review, I'll be getting one as soon as I move into my new home for my conservatory and workshop/shed builds.
I don’t think you will be disappointed with it Steven. It is a good saw. :-)
I'm going to buy this, excellent review thanks for sharing
Glad I could help! :-)
Hi Russell. Bought this after all. Thanks for your numerous films. I have a question....will my power tools be OK in my wooden shed in these freezing conditions? I'm hoping they won't seize up
They will be fine Cheryl. So long as they remain dry. My garage is freezing too. There is a gap above and below the sliding doors and the wind just blows through! :-)
It would be nice to see more saws with fixed bars which the head slides along, so the saw can but set up close to a wall.
That would be useful lee. :-)
The instructions say to remove the black rubber feet before mounting to the table.
Hi Russell I've just watched your review on this mitre saw. I have inmy amazon basket the 210sms+300. Is this one an upgrade of the one you reviewed 5 yes ago.?
It has a better cutting capacity Cheryl. 300mm instead of 255mm. The plus features are mentioned at the bottom of this page: shop.evolutionpowertools.com/products/r210sms300?gclid=Cj0KCQiAyracBhDoARIsACGFcS7BTTyxr9kKuej2VLWghTip1FeYvDRve96jPT55OdPLLsAsBm28JQcaAkQtEALw_wcB#features :-)
I can't decide between this mitre saw and the fury 3-s. Which one would you recommend for a beginner or would they be both around the same standard do you reckon?
I would go for the R210SMS Adam. :-)
Just watched this review and bought one. Really good review pal very detailed. Thank you for your time.
Glad it was helpful Danny! :-)
Watched this straight after the assembly, great thanks.
Ha! Im watching this the day before going out to buy the saw!
:-)
:-)
Brought one today what size bolts do you need to fix the saw to stand or bench?
M6 bolt around 40mm long should do it. You could get away with shorter length bolts, but better too long than too short. :-)
That's great thank you Russell
@@tom849448 :-)
Great review, thanks for a concise review of the product.
Out of interest, would you recommend the standard blade for composite decking?
It should be fine. However, I have no experience with composite materials. :-)
Not sure if I missed it but usually with sliding decent priced mitre saws, they're flimsy and aren't very sturdy which means the you can nudge it out of position, is it the same with this mitre saw with the sliding arm?
I have no issues with mine. :-)
Thanks very much for the review! Very comprehensive and well done. I'm very interested in buying one. I was wondering if the bevel cut goes further than 45 (I know it's listed as 45 max but the scale seems to go slightly beyond this from the video)?
The bevel is set at 45 degrees using the stop. I have just been and had a look at mine and it seems like there is a little more scope if you tighten the stop screw right in. If you remove the stop screw completely, it looks as if there is a lot of scope. I am not sure if there are any other physical stops built into the casting on the saw head though. :-)
@@RussellPlattenThanks very much for the quick reply!! On a video a few years old. Very kind and helpful of you Russell. 😊
You are welcome! :-)
Around the 10.28 mark- what is that tool you are using and what is it showing?
It is a Bosch PAM 220 angle measurer. :-)
How have you found this mitre saw in terms of longevity, both of the blades and the item itself?
I stopped using it when Evolution sent me the R255SMS 3 months later. I have been using the R255SMS regularly since then. I swapped the blade after a year or so and fitted a blade designed specifically for cutting wood. I used the R210SMS for a few small metal cutting jobs, but not enough to give the blade any real testing. So, I cannot say how long the blades last. I can say that the R255SMS has been a great saw and I use it a lot. I see no reason to think the R210SMS would be any different. I only have Evolution mitre saws in my workshop. :-)
Bought this saw today after watching your review and others, really help full advice with the set up side of things cheers👍
Thank you Daniel. :-)
Perfect review apart from forgetting the laser. Top marks though. My laser is slightly off despite my saw cutting correct angle so was hoping for this info but never mind
Yes, sorry about the laser Matthew. It is not easy to realign it! :-)
Hi Russell, super video. I’m in the market for a new mitre saw. Will the blade be too rough for laminate flooring. In the market for something I can use for multiple jobs; laminate flooring (obviously not when cutting length), skirting, shelving and cabinets.
The actual box says able for laminate but wondering your opinion. Thanks
The blade is reasonable for wood cutting, but there is some tear out as the blade is a compromise to allow the cutting of steel and aluminium. In the video description there is a link to a cheap Saxton blade that I bought that gives a fine cut. The Evolution wood blades are also very good, but more expensive. If you do get the saw, make sure you check that it is set up correctly before using it. I have found that they occasionally need tweeking before first use. Here is a video I made on setting up the saw just in case: ruclips.net/video/nW2IKqYLxo0/видео.html
I would try the multi-purpous blade before getting another Darren, you may find it is adequate for your needs. :-)
I've just bought the plus model for some DIY. Is it wrong that I'm overly excited to use this? Hahaha 😆
brill, you've done such a great job with this demo and now I'm off to get me one.
Thank you Warren. It is a fine saw. :-)
Thank you. This video was so good I could understand the key points even with the sound off. (Wife was on the phone.)
Thank you! :-)
I know the video is 4 years old, but have they newer version of that saw
:-)
Brilliant review, explanation and demonstration. Thank you so much Russell.
Glad I could help! :-)
You awight gavna. I learnt about building work. I built my own shed the other day. It's nice n strong.
LOL
I have to say that is one of the best review videos I have ever watched on RUclips! I am off to buy myself one of these for a decking project I have lined up!
Thank you Scott. What a great comment for a RUclipsr to receive. Good luck with your project! :-)
Love the vid. Quick question; what’s the overall footprint of this SMS, allowing for full motion of the saw forward and back? Cheers
I have checked mine Jeff and the depth with the blade pushed all the way back is 75cm. The width is 58cm. :-)
@@RussellPlatten fab. Cheers bud.
@@jeffhatcher6585 You're welcome! :-)
After 3 weeks of using this saw, it's generally been ok - light and powerful. But... yesterday when i came to use it, the laser was not lining up with the cut: out of parallel and off the cut by about 8mm. I didn't have time to sort it out on site, but today I got out the instructions and found the section on adjusting the laser on page 28. Now according to the instruction, there are two adjustments: one for sliding the beam side to side ( only about 5mm or so, ) and a small clamp screw on the circular housing for the laser itself - which (it says) is the one to adjust if the beam is not parallel to the path of the blade. After spending nearly an hour attempting to adjust this, in an attempt to get it parallel, I can state categorically - this instruction is completely incorrect. In fact, after slackening the clamp screw, all that enables you to do is rotate the beam around its own axis; there is no adjustment whatsoever, for aligning the beam with the blade's travel. This is actually achieved by slackening or tightening the OTHER TWO screws on the bracket - not obvious at first sight, it looks as if they are simply there to enable the bracket holding the laser to slide left or right. If you remove the bracket completely and look at the rear of it, you will notice a small ridge protruding from it, about 1.5mm deep. This allows the bracket to effectively 'rock' on the ridge, like a see-saw. moving the beam's direction. The bracket is plastic, and bends when tightened to anything near the torque you would expect to be necessary to remain in position - i.e. so as not to slacken off during use. This throws the beam out. What you have to do is follow the instructions about using the cardboard to mark where the blade's travel will be, then, with the cardboard in place, gently slacken or tighten either one or both screws in succession. Slackening the screw allows the beam to swing to the left; tightening it throws it to the right. After getting the beam right, you'll no doubt wonder (as I did) just how long it's going to stay that way, because the screws won't be very tight. I used a drop of polyurethane glue on each screw - I just hope it works, long term. It's a shame, because apart from this absolutely naff part of the design, there appears to have been quite a lot of thought gone into the saw itself and for under a hundred quid, it's still good value. The blade has only been used for wood (no nails) and to be honest, it really rags the back of the cut. The only way to avoid it is to 'score' the top surface lightly, in a forwards direction (like a crosscut) then work backwards. Again, not really a complaint: Evoulution have come up with a blade that cuts metal and wood - it's bound to be something of a compromise.
I have cut accurate mitres with the bevel John, make sure you check the angle and adjust if necessary as the saws do not always leave the factory with the angles set perfectly.
Good video, I was thinking about going for the R185SMS, but for the extra 25 quid I might as well just go for this one, cheers.
The right decision in my opinion! :-)
@@RussellPlatten You're not wrong there, I went out yesterday and bought one, put it together last night, which was all pretty much self explanatory, so you don't need the idiot guide. Then today I done a few cross cut's in some 4x2, all was good and it didn't need any adjustment, but I'll test it more thoroughly over the weekend. So overall I'm really happy with this saw, it's solid, looks good and the build quality is excellent, and an absolute bargain for £125, so a useful addition for both the professional and the DIYer alike 👍
@@Ratsotone 👍
Top review, bought this today after returning a cheaper other brand model at Screwfix, the manual is ok but you helped me get the saw spot on, nice piece of kit for my DIY, thanks for your review
Glad to help. :-)
can you put the evolution blade in any mitre saw to cut wood and metal ??
Ask Evolution Power Tools customer support. :-)
Excellent review, I have now just ordered one. I wish I had of watched this before wasting my money on my last saw.
Hope you enjoy it! :-)
Great review, watched after I brought one. Just 1 question, when I chop decking 120mm x 20mm the blade always leaves a bit of wood on the corner that it doesn't cut, do you know why this is please?
It sounds like you have the slide locked and need to use the sliding function to cut the decking. look at 10:07 on the video, I am cutting decking there. :-)
@@RussellPlatten sorted thanks bud
@@MarmaladeandTigger Glad to hear it! :-)
Have you used any other branded blades? Reviews says because of it's smaller bore size than standard, you need to buy Evolutions own branded blades.
I have used Saxton blades Chris and was happy with them. :-)
Great video Russell, I wanted to know which saw to get and actually have a question. I want to get either this or the R185SMS. I have a roll of paper which is quite thick to cut in half. The paper is 1.3 meters in length. It's a 50 meter roll of paper so you can imagine how thick it is. I have never used a mitre saw in my life and just researched it today because I've been told it can cut rolls of vinyl/paper etc. By the looks of it I don't think I can get cut straight through as the blade isn't big enough. Will I need to cut, then turn the roll, cut and repeat or do you think that it just can't be done? Thanks
It depends on the diameter of the roll. It sounds a little risky to me Christian. :-)
@@RussellPlatten Thank you for the response. I already did this a day ago lol I needed to roll it and cut again as the diameter was too thick. There wasn't any danger. The only risk is that it would have ruined the roll but it's all good :)
@@christianlionel1988 Glad it worked out for you! :-)
Just bought one of these for some composite decking..good review
Thank you Geoff! :-)
Great video. Does it move to 45 degrees both ways on the stand without hitting?
Yes it does. The stand is a great add on for the saw as it turns it into a portable work station.
Glad I saw this before I purchased a Rage3s - I can wait for a better model. Hope the price is similar....!
Thank you for taking the time to comment Gareth. You won’t have to wait long for the saw as it comes on sale in January. Unfortunately, I do not know what the price is, but Evolution tend not to hike the prices up too much when they release new versions.
Great review Russell, do you know if they plan to release a new version of the 255mm saw as well as the 210mm.
I am not sure Andrew, Evolution told me it would be this month, but I was not given a date. Hopefully it will be sooner rather than later. :-)
Do you still have to assemble or does it come assembled?
The saw has to be assembled. I made a video showing the assembly: ruclips.net/video/Odg_Dple5go/видео.html :-)
Hi. Nice review. Can you clarify how you actually mounted the SMS saw to the mitre table? It is no obvious from the manual, and the mitre table instructions predate the saw.
Hi David. At 1:14 on the video I mention the 4 holes in the base. The bolts for attaching the saw to the Mitre Saw Stand brackets are pushed through these. If you look at 3:33 on the video, you can see how the saw is mounted onto the brackets. The stand is supplied with the brackets and fittings. I hope this helps. :-)
Thank you, missed that!
I've just purchased the R210SMS + the stand. The bolts supplied with the stand are not hex headed like shown in your video. They are a round head, with a square below, then the thread. Did you have to purchase the bolts separately, or did your stand come supplied with the hex head bolts? Perhaps I have an old stocked stand with the wrong bolts?
Hi Nick, the stand came with coach bolts as you describe and I used M6 bolts I had in the garage. M6 bolts are extremely common and hopefully you will find some tucked away in your garage. I reckon the coach bolts will be fine though, if they are long enough. I will pass on your comment to Evolution and see what they say.
Coach bolts..that's the ones...couldn't think what they were called. I plan on calling them tomorrow. Really impressed with the product, just a bit disappointed the fixings are right for the saw... I'll see what they say and let you know.
What dust extractor tube do you use with this particular model of saw, as I cannot see anything in their accessory list?
My shop vac came with a power tool adapter and this fits the saw perfectly. I measured the outside diameter of the adapter and it is approximately 35mm. The nozzle on my shop vac also fits the port on the saw. I hope this helps.
Thanks
Hi Russell I wonder if you can help I have mounted my 185 sliding evolution mitre saw on the evolution mitre stand only I can't to go all way to 45 degrees because mitre stand clamp stops it the only thing that solves this is bringing the Mitre saw forward so it doesn't catch it can you recommend a another'
Way can you get back to me ASAP
Thanks.
I am sorry Glynn, but I don't understand the issue. Can you try describing it in a different way? Are you talking about the black clamp/locking handle on the brackets that the saw is bolted on to?
@@RussellPlatten Hi Russell I sorting it out I saw your video on putting the Mitre saw on a piece of 47cm 24cm mdf and attaching it to clamp that go on the Evolution mitre stand I have ordered a 47cm x 25cm , 15mm thickness mdf to fit my mitre saw.
:-)
Could you please clarify the 150*65 mm specification for the maximum 45 degree mitre cut. Does that mean it can cut a piece 150 mm wide at 45 degrees, or is 150mm just the maximum length of the actual cut? My reason for asking is that I have a project that will involve cutting 150 mm wide oak planks at 45 degrees to make corner shelves and I want to know if this saw will do it.
155mm by 65mm is the maximum width and depth of the wood you can cut at 45 degrees. The saw will cut the wood for your project.
Thank you for your clear and prompt reply.
:-)
I’ve read that only evolution blades fit due to the bore is this correct as you have recommended a saxton blade? Great video
Hi Lisa, this Saxton blade is supplied 25.4mm so it will fit the Evolution saw: amzn.to/2AsFWlW
The multipurpose blade is fine for most uses, but the Saxton blade does give a cleaner cut.
Russell Platten cheers. Would you recommend as a starter mitre saw am looking at this or the R210cm non sliding one. Have you any experience with Einhall ones?
@@lisaporteous3689 Firstly, I do not have any experience with Einhall tools. As for what type of starter saw to go for, it depends on what you plan to do. The R210CMS is fine for cutting small stock, the R210SMS can cut much wider pieces. The R210CMS can cut 55mm x 125mm at 90 degrees, the R210SMS can cut 65mm x 230mm. If you intend to use your saw for more than just the odd small job, go for the sliding mitre saw, it is a far more versatile machine. :-)
Russell Platten thank you. Only small jobs so think the r210cms will suffice. 👍🏻
@@lisaporteous3689 Glad I could help Lisa. Make sure you check and adjust your saw it necessary. Some of mine have needed adjustment out of the box. Good luck with your projects and please take when using your new saw! :-)
Best review I’ve ever seen. Very detailed. Thanks a million
Thank you Ellen. Glad I could help! :-)
Hi Rusell, Thanks for the video. Can you recommend a blade for this Mitre saw for cutting laminate 12mm thick?
Hi Mario, I purchased a Saxon blade from Amazon, the blade has 80 teeth and cuts wood finely. Cheap too. They sell them with an insert for these saws. :-)
Thanks @@RussellPlatten
Hi can you help please i have same saw but after a cut my blade comes to a complete stop in 2 or 3 seconds unlike yours, do you think my blade maybe too tight?
Hi, the blade speed is not affected by how tight it is on the saw arbour. First of all, unplug your saw and once it is unplugged try turning the blade by hand. Mine has some resistance and will not actually spin round freely, but it is fairly easy to turn. Also, it should not be catching on anything. If yours is the same, I suspect that it is OK. Let me know how yours feels. I will contact Evolution and see what they say, they may have added a braking feature to the saw.
@@RussellPlatten Thanks for the reply, i called evolution and they said it is fitted with an electric brake, it may be a new added feature.
Glad you got to the bottom of it. An electric brake is a good new feature and makes fore a much safer saw! :-)
What a great review! Great work! I’ll be picking one of these up.
Glad I could help Simon! :-)
Hi Russel, does the disc blade flex while cutting mild steel because some people said that doesn't do a clean cut on steel box sections
On the video at 11:27 I cut steel box section and show the cut. I have had no issues with it cutting steel. :-)
@@RussellPlatten can you tell me the depth of the whole machine the cause i want to know if it fits on my work bench pls Thanks for your imm reply
No problem 🙂. The depth is around 530mm. I have just been in to the garage and checked. If I push the sliding carriage all the way back so that it is ready to cut and leave 3 to 5mm between the back end of the sliding carriage and the wall; the base at it's furthest point is 530mm from the wall. I hope I have explained that correctly, just do you know how I came to that figure.
@@RussellPlatten got that very well explained thankyou
@@mg-gabd0113 :-)
Great review very helpful, Did you leave rubber feet on saw when you mounted it to the stand?
Thank you. Yes I did leave the feet on. :-)
@@RussellPlatten I took mine off cos looked like yours was off thanks anyways👍
Great review, very in depth and i think this is going to be my first mitre saw. Cheers!
Glad it was helpful! :-)
Do they make a double bevelled version?
They make a 255mm double bevel saw, the Rage 3-DB. :-)
I never comment on videos but this review is top class! Thank u mate
Thank you David. Glad I could help! :-)
I have just bought one of the old models, I wish I had known a new model was coming out
The old model is a fine saw Andrew, it will still serve you well. :-)
great video cheers, I`m thinking of buying this 1 or the EVOLUTION R185SMS what you think ????
I would go for the R210SMS Antony, unless you only intend to cut smaller sized wood. Most people wish they had bought larger after they start using their saws more. :-)
@@RussellPlatten cheers will do
@@antonyporter5045 :-)
@@RussellPlatten Hi can I use this saw on a flat work bench without clamping it down ??
@@antonyporter5045 Yes Antony, but it is better to secure it. :-)
I have the earlier model and found that the work hold down clamp under the motor gets in the way of the motor and therefore stops the full travel of the saw, has this fault been rectified on this new model?
The new model is the same John. I just flip the wood over and cut it on the left hand side if the clamp is a problem.
Thanks, I thought the fault would have been fixed on a newer model.
I think it is manufactured like this to keep the cost down. It would need a much bigger base to resolve the issue. They do sell a horizontal clamp that allows workpiece clamping on either side of the blade: www.evolutionstore.co.uk/accessories/frontclamps/rage3s.php
That blade is amazing!!!!
It is a very handy machine. :-)
for cutting metal that multimaterial blade it's a joke (bad one)
Very good review. Nicely done.
is the orange version bether than the green version?
Yes it is. :-)
Thanks
I definitely considered to buy one I like the fact is easy to carry and easy to store.
It is a fine saw! :-)
How much the price of the machine
Can I wet cut stone on this device? Eg rough uneven jasper, granite flint etc?
There is a diamond blade available for the saw and it will certainly cut brick and tile. If others are using diamond blades to cut these materials it should be fine. :-)
Russell Platten thanks for your help
I was just about to buy one of these when I thought look on RUclips see what people say , great review definitely made my mind up , cheers !!!
Glad I could help! :-)
Thank you for the review, brilliant and concise.
Glad I could help! :-)
I'm so disappointed with my Rage 3 S.
Used your tips in another video and it was quite well set up but there is so much movement on the up/down hinged part. It has a large pin with a clip either end and what ever bushing there is in the middle, (if any) is loose. Doesn't appear to be any way to tighten or take the wobble out of it.
Just as I'm getting to a standard where I need the accuracy.
Anyone else have this problem.
I would take a short video of it and send it to Evolution Andy. See what they say. :-)
@@RussellPlatten
Great Idea mate. Thanks so much for your help.
fantastic video the misses is getting me this for xmas looks a amazing piece of kit
That is a nice present Glenn. :-)
Good review! Thanks.
Cheers Tuomas! :-)
Mitre saw
Really good review, thank you - I’m going to buy one as soon as I’ve written this 👍🏼 😁
:-)