Mike, from my experience, I don't think you need to torque the left adjuster to 70 ft-lbs. The left side only used as a physical stop to set your backlash. The right adjuster is the only one that needs to be torqued because that sets your carrier bearing preload once the backlash is set. I love all your videos and appreciate your level of detail. Keep up the good work.
I figured that to be the case as once the right one is torqued then the left one cannot be tightened any more and just clicks straight away on the wrench. I didn't really think about it until you said it. Thanks for the comment and for watching
It made a huge difference to fuel economy and torque. I sort of lost my economy again now as I put in a bigger injection pump and turbo, which doubled the power output. It drinks like a fish. Thanks for watching and for subscribing!
I regeared my 8.25 with 4.56 gears as an amateur. I had trouble reading gear patterns as well. But I eventually got it set with a nice oval pattern. So far it has held up for 30k miles. It has a barely audible gear whine but seems fine. Best of Luck!
Great video bud. That's how I learnt how to drive in Africa. My Dad would let me control the steering and he would do the rest. Brought back some good memories.
That's awesome! Funny enough I helped a friend set up his 8.25 today. His too set up pretty quickly with only 1 shim stack adjustment. I also was happy to use a crush sleeve again the eliminator kit rlly complicated it for me on my build. No noise is such good news, mind howls a bit around 40-50. My old gear set would howl on coast all the way to stop. Pattern looked about as good as it gets with the 8.25 in my experience. The pinion bearing preload looked a bit light to me. I think it's around 15 inch lbs spec which is definitely more than most people think. If you were comparing it to your used pinion then that makes sense bc it's broken in and has less resistance. In the end great job, thanks for filming and I'm jealous of your pattern and results so far. Looking forward to watching you hammer the d30 carrier in.
I find regearing a daunting job to be honest but I'm relieved it's working well. Ah nice a bet your mate was happy, good to have some experienced eyes on the job. There was a fair bit of resistance on the pinion but I guess its hard to see or tell without the correct guage. There was much more resistance than the old bearings but anyway fingers crossed its enough. I think I got very lucky with the pinion shim, it was obviously very close to the stock shim so nothing major. We will see how the little 30 goes. I like the adjusters now I've used them, makes life a bit easier. Last time I geared the 30 I had it on a bench so it wasn't too bad.
@@WorkshoptoWilderness As much as I wished you struggled more to validate my own struggle and suggestion to remove the axle I am begrudgingly happy for you =]. Especially after the the turbo saga. I guess I will have another opportunity to watch you curse out your axle on the 30. I had backlash set perfect first go on the d30 so i am personally a bigger fan of the shims by consequence.
Thank you for talking about the grinding on one of the gear teeth because im installing the same 4.88 gears in my dodge truck and i couldn't figure out how to get the pin back in after i put it together.
I love that I get halfway through the video and I hear " I don't really know what I am doing" well that makes two of us. I did the high pinion dana 30 in the front so figured this should be easier from what I hear. Going to 4.56 ratio and the axles are form an 99 XJ but are in a MJ.
I hear even bearings of the same brand can still have differences that can throw your pattern off. On my dana 30 I ended up having to press off the new carrier bearings and move some shims around to get it right since they were that different compared to the mock up set. Your final pattern didn't look to bad maybe the pinion was in to deep by like .002 but what you got should wear in just fine. Got the carrier out finally. A bit harder getting the c clips out with a spartan locker. Hopefully over the next week I'll have it back together.
One question where did you get the torque specs? I see a lot of people say torque the bearing cap bolts to 100ftlbs and the yukon gear book says 60ftlbs and a cut out from what looks like the field service manual says 70ftlbs.
My end pattern was definitely not as good as my setup pattern. Fortunately it seems to run good with no noticeable noise and the wear on the gears from braking them in looks very even across the tooth. That sucks that you had to press off the bearings and tweak things but probably a good job that you did. I found the torque specs on a forum which is totally unreliable. I went with 90ftlb in the end just because I saw 75 on one place and 100 on another. I did see how ever multiple threads with a 100ftlb on them so thought it must be right. That's on the 8.25 though, I think the Dana 30hp is like 55?
@@WorkshoptoWilderness yup The dana 30 HP is 55 or 60 ft lbs. Well I got the new bearings and ring gear on the carrier also grinded down one tooth for the pin to fit. Now I have to get the old pinion nut off which the impact can't handle so hopefully a large pipe will help me loosen it.
Sounds like your almost there. Shame that the impact didn't work. Saves a bit of time but then again it's hopefully a job you only do once so it's not too bad. Let me know how it goes,
Well done man.... The pattern looks good to me..... A long job, but worth it in the end! The first time I did it, it seemed to take me 20 hours an axle..... lol I have friends that can do it in 2 hours..... lol
Thanks for that! It seems to run well so fingers crossed it all holds up. Took me a couple of days on that haha. I cant imagine pulling it off in two hours!
i have a set of these waiting for my dodge ram project, i took the chance purchasing these because of the outstanding service at rons machine shop that i think actually makes those inhouse now that a year has passed since you installed them, what do you think of them?
I have no complaints at all to be honest. I've run them all over and the jeeps not light for an XJ. I also do a lot of snow wheeling and axle hop and such hasn't damaged them yet. The gear wear is also good. No scoring or anything to worry about. Over all I would use them again without worry. I broke them in on mineral oil then ran Redline 75w90
I feel like you've done a good job there. I prefer the adjustable screw type differentials to the shims personally. About those dana 35 gears, installing a used gear set is tough, it's one thing to reinstall used gears into their original housing with the original shims but Installing used gears into a new/different housing with a different pattern is very tough. The used gears need to be in perfect condition with bluing still on the teeth or I wouldn't even attempt it. The fact that you saw pitting or even shinyness where it's really worn in over lots of miles tells me that gear set was doomed from the start so I wouldn't even worry about that dana 35 experience it was just a learning process. I think this gear set will work just fine I didn't see anything during your install thats too worrying. just break it in carefully they like short trips up to and under 50mph to warm up and completely cool multiple times if you can. When you do your dana 30 you should make a set up nut for your pinion because you can really mess up the threads spinning the locking nut on and off a bunch, sometimes you can shave off the pinched section of the nut. If you can borrow or purchase a differential spreader that might make your job a lot easier on the dana 30 especially since your nervous and don't have as much experience it makes it slightly easier I picked one up online for 120 dollars and it makes it so much easier to get your shims just right. If you're interested in rear disc brakes I've heard the jeep liberty kj rear disc is a direct bolt on swap no modifications like with the grand cherokee brakes. I'm not sure if you have the same proportioning valve as we do in the states but when you go to rear disc you change the plunger and spring and everything out from a grand cherokee its super simple. If you ever decide you want to do the rear disc and need anything I can help you source parts they are dirt cheap at my local wrecking yards and I have a few zj proportioning valves in my stash already. I ran rear drum for years and honestly didn't mind it much. I upgraded to the larger rear drum brakes at one point. When you do wj brakes you may want rear disc for ease of maintenance and cleaning etc..
Ah well that makes me feel a lot better about the Dana 35. It was my first regearing experience and I lost some confidence there. The gears were shot I think, lots of chips and worn areas. Anyway I'm happy you haven't seen anything strange with the installation, they are working fine and making no noise so I'm very happy. It drives so much better, more power, shifting better and I have 5th gear with boost in all the right places. The rear brakes are definitely on the cards. That's kind to offer some help on locating parts. I need to find an old liberty and drag it to work to butcher and pillage it. There is one going for free 30 miles from here but it has rear drums. It's got a 8.25 rear but I'm guessing the liberty 8.25 with abs shafts are non compatible? I could do with some spares. Your axle shafts are almost here!! Very excited
@@WorkshoptoWilderness definitely do a little googling about the liberty brake swap I'm 95 percent sure it's a direct bolt on swap other than maybe the brake lines? I looked it up really quick and I did find some RUclips videos on it. I searched "cherokee xj liberty brake swap" I don't think it matters if it has abs or not? I'd have to look into it. I know the grand cherokee zj disc brakes take some modifications to fit but I've read the liberty kj is a direct bolt on or at least it's much easier. Then you'll want to look up how to change the proportioning valve guts it's super simple if you have the same stuff we do in the states. The only thing with the proportioning valve swap is you want to change everything don't use your original seal or plunger even though it looks the same just swap everything out of the disc brake model to reduce possible problems its really easy to find pictures and videos about it. You don't need to change the proportioning valve guts right away if you cant find them I've driven with both styles and I prefer the disc stuff.
Hello my friend once more love your job!!! What else you believe i should do except regearing so i can make my engine rolling and speeding better???? 2.5 diesel 33 size tyre 4.56 gears thanks in advance
Thanks for watching. There are many things you can do to the engine for more power. It just depends on how much you would like to do. I have a play list on modifying this engine for more power - ruclips.net/p/PLQQXgt9BFgARUPF53xgncZF2nlcCqJmwV&si=Zvb1d8OqQlamiZox
Hey like I got a 97 Xj and I’m really curious on ur seats I personally am not the biggest fan of the stock front seats and rear bench seat I really wanna l know what u did with yours. That would be greatly appreciated
Hey, its a question that comes up quite a bit. They are standard XJ seats but from the European export models. Its a different seat as I think Jeep did it to compete with Landrover and other European brands when selling in Europe. The ZJ seat conversion will probabaly be a better alternative for you if your US based. Thanks for watching.
I have a 2.5 VM XJ and I will put 33x12.5x15 tires so I'm wondering if 4.56 gears are too big or would 4.10 be better? Actually, I'm most interested in what the RPMs are at 100 kmh in 5th speed? I don't have anyone to ask with the VM XJ so I would really appreciate an opinion. I will also put Detroit Truetrac front and rear.
I'm on 35s with 4.88 and 100kmh is about 2200rpm for me. Its pretty nice because my turbo is in its torque curve and it pulls up hills and doesn't loose power like this. I think with a 33 and 4.56 you should be around the same I would have thought. A 35 is more like a 34 anyway and a 33 is often just a 32 when you measure them out. I use to run 32s on 4.11 and the jeep would be at a gearing disadvantage in 5th at 100kmh. The revs were not quite high enough and on hill climbs it would gradually loose power.
I have a 5 speed XJ on 33"s and trying to decide what to regear to. My biggest issue right now is simply the difficulty of driving it. 1st gear feels like it starts out at a 100mph and I feel like I'll be putting a clutch in it quickly if I continue to drive it. What would you recommend?
@@WorkshoptoWilderness I haven't actually jacked it up and figured out the ratio myself. But all manual 4.0's came with 3.07s so that's what I'm thinking is in it.
Now the front to look fwd to! Do you experiment with the gear oil you use? My Dana30 and Dana35 are stock gears and only running 29s currently but I decided to try some Castrol Syntrax 75w140 with the imagination that it could protect any higher loads I could throw at it in future.
Yeah I will tackle the front tomorrow evening after work. I have played around with oil and now I use a 75w90 limited slip oil in the back and a 75w90 gl5 oil in the front. I quite like Redline. Seems very good quality. How's the oil working out for you? Thanks for watching
@@WorkshoptoWilderness well it slowed the leak at the pinion on the front axle... I will do seal some day when I feel brave. Apart from that I've not had them open since added but I'm hoping they're nicely buttered by it :p , its smooth anyway. I'm pretty sure my dana35 doesnt have the LSD so I just used gl5 75w140 , I guess if I'm wrong then I definitely wont have a lsd when I'm done haha.
How did you address the clearance issue with the cross pin and the ring gear? I've been researching the 8.25 gear change a while and I ran across some talk on the forums and in other videos where they ground down the ring gear slightly to allow clearance. I also found that Richmond Gear has a solution (Richmond PN 836-80-0278-1), that allows you to install the ring/pinion with the cross pin installed. Richmond notches the cross pin 90 degrees from the spider gear interface surface. With that application, you rotate the pin 90 degrees from the install position to insert 1 c-clip, rotate it 180 from that point to install the other, then rotate it back to the correct orientation. Any thoughts? I have a spare 8.25 (and a Dana 30) that I was going to upgrade to 29 spline, locker and 4.88; but I'm seriously considering finding a Ford 8.8 instead.
I ground a tooth down slightly to get it in. I only needed to do one tooth at the toe right at the back by the cross pin hole. I've driven about 3000 miles on this gear now and I've not heard anything yet so I guess its okay. I didn't use a grinder though, I borrowed a small dremel tool with a sanding cylinder on the end and just took away the absolute minimum possible on one tooth. When putting the ring gear on you can line it up so it's just one tooth worth of interference instead of more.
@@WorkshoptoWilderness Thanks for the feedback. Some of the other sources indicated it was a significant amount on multiple teeth. That would change thing a lot. I see your point on using sanding drums with a rotary tool instead of a grinder. You probably went through a few drums; but I bet the ground surface was very smooth afterward. That likely mitigates crack propagation. My plan is go from a 4.5" lift on 31s to 6.5" to 8" on 35s with trusses and lockers. The 8.25 should be fine then.
Eating bearings, talk of mustard and cucumbers... are you sure you're getting enough to eat? 😄 Those are some great times with you and your boy! I remember doing the same with my dad in the ol Plymouth wagon and I done the same with my daughter in my F-150. Now go have a sandwich before you start nibbling on the brake lines!👍
I was pretty hungry. Problem is I get into the job and I just can't stop. He's a lovely little chap, great fun at the moment with his age. He absolutely loves the jeep which is nice as he enjoys just being in his seat and being driven around. That might make our holiday travels a little easier. Thanks for watching
I've seen some people do that but it didn't make sense given they are in a bath of gear oil and you probably wouldn't want to add anything foreign to that oil. The grease might effect the preload figure for the pinion also as its viscousty isn't the same as gear oil.
@@WorkshoptoWilderness well, I actually have 488 gears right now that I had a guy do but the pinion bearing is going out and I don’t wanna take it back to him
@@moejr14 Ah okay, well you don't need to worry about everything I have done in the is video. You can just pull the carrier and then then pinion and replace the bearing. Getting the old bearing off is a bit annoying
You can have them, just pay shipping if that works? I can send the chrysler 8.25 with the original shim so you know the thickness. Same with the Dana 30. I'm regearing the 30 tomorrow so I will have front and back in 4.10.
Its a high pinion 30 with no damage. The chrysler 8.25 looks fine also. They both run quite and have only been used on the road and medium offroad use. I oil changed them every year.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I have done 5 rear gear's seen it done 100's of times and yet here I am watching you , wile i drink my morning coffee
Well hopefully I've done an okay job. Its not making any noise or getting super hot so fingers crossed. Thanks for watching
It must be a true pain in the ass to film all this while doing it. That said, don’t stop. This is fantastic stuff.
Mike, from my experience, I don't think you need to torque the left adjuster to 70 ft-lbs. The left side only used as a physical stop to set your backlash. The right adjuster is the only one that needs to be torqued because that sets your carrier bearing preload once the backlash is set. I love all your videos and appreciate your level of detail. Keep up the good work.
I figured that to be the case as once the right one is torqued then the left one cannot be tightened any more and just clicks straight away on the wrench. I didn't really think about it until you said it. Thanks for the comment and for watching
4.88 with 35s even with OD (.79) you governed the jeep to ~60-63 mph. Just found your channel. Subbed. Good stuff.
It made a huge difference to fuel economy and torque. I sort of lost my economy again now as I put in a bigger injection pump and turbo, which doubled the power output. It drinks like a fish.
Thanks for watching and for subscribing!
I regeared my 8.25 with 4.56 gears as an amateur. I had trouble reading gear patterns as well. But I eventually got it set with a nice oval pattern. So far it has held up for 30k miles. It has a barely audible gear whine but seems fine.
Best of Luck!
What bro and of gears did you use
@@moejr14 I used nitro gears in the rear and motive in the front
@@kevinzimmerman2304 how do you like them so far? Did you get any noise?
@moejr14 They have been quiet, recently I hear a slight noise in the rear. Maybe it always was there? Or the pinion bearing is making some noise.
@@kevinzimmerman2304 I have a noise also on deceleration at 40mph. It sounds like a howl and my pinion is super loose.
An excellent morning watch while having a coffee 🤘🇨🇦
25:54 🤣
Great video bud. That's how I learnt how to drive in Africa. My Dad would let me control the steering and he would do the rest. Brought back some good memories.
Really enjoy you humor! interesting to watch aswel!
Good on you Mikey, you scored a home run. Patience is a valuable tangent in such tricky work. Cheers from B.C. Canada.
Mike, you're like a surgeon. Right on mate! Can't wait to see you guys out on some adventures. Be well.
Mike you have me in absolute stiches..especially when the seal hit you in the face 😂 taste the seal...loving the content as usual 👍
Haha glad you like the typical dry British humour. I'm often reserved on the videos just because it can be too much lol. Thanks for watching
Very helpful video. Hope it's holding up still. Looks like you did a great job. Cheers from Ohio, USA
Good use of safety squints! That all looked terrifying, well done!
Great video. I’m regearing an 8.25 now. Thanks for the help.
How did it go? I want to do mine
Great stuff. Really enjoyed it.
Thanks for watching!
That's awesome! Funny enough I helped a friend set up his 8.25 today. His too set up pretty quickly with only 1 shim stack adjustment. I also was happy to use a crush sleeve again the eliminator kit rlly complicated it for me on my build. No noise is such good news, mind howls a bit around 40-50. My old gear set would howl on coast all the way to stop. Pattern looked about as good as it gets with the 8.25 in my experience. The pinion bearing preload looked a bit light to me. I think it's around 15 inch lbs spec which is definitely more than most people think. If you were comparing it to your used pinion then that makes sense bc it's broken in and has less resistance. In the end great job, thanks for filming and I'm jealous of your pattern and results so far. Looking forward to watching you hammer the d30 carrier in.
I find regearing a daunting job to be honest but I'm relieved it's working well. Ah nice a bet your mate was happy, good to have some experienced eyes on the job. There was a fair bit of resistance on the pinion but I guess its hard to see or tell without the correct guage. There was much more resistance than the old bearings but anyway fingers crossed its enough. I think I got very lucky with the pinion shim, it was obviously very close to the stock shim so nothing major. We will see how the little 30 goes. I like the adjusters now I've used them, makes life a bit easier. Last time I geared the 30 I had it on a bench so it wasn't too bad.
@@WorkshoptoWilderness As much as I wished you struggled more to validate my own struggle and suggestion to remove the axle I am begrudgingly happy for you =]. Especially after the the turbo saga. I guess I will have another opportunity to watch you curse out your axle on the 30. I had backlash set perfect first go on the d30 so i am personally a bigger fan of the shims by consequence.
Super helpful video showing the process, thanks for the upload..:) couple more years and Max will be that extra set of hands
i have a LDS going in the back and a lunchbox going in the front as soon as the weather gets warmer
Nice that will make the world of difference. I just have an lsd in this 8.25. It actually does quite a bit but the open front let's it all down.
Its always a good idea to run a file across the mating surface of your new ring gear to check for any high spots...
I never knew that! Appreciate the tip
That pinion looked so smooth, I could hear it haha.
We like our 4.88 with 35”. 👍
Great video & info but I don't think I'll be attempting this anytime soon. Hope to see you again soon.
Thank you for talking about the grinding on one of the gear teeth because im installing the same 4.88 gears in my dodge truck and i couldn't figure out how to get the pin back in after i put it together.
Never have done one. Would like to do my XJ.
It's not such a terrible job if you have setup bearings.
Just had mine lock up pulling in my driveway whole driveshaft fell off diff so probably gona regear at this point
I love that I get halfway through the video and I hear " I don't really know what I am doing" well that makes two of us. I did the high pinion dana 30 in the front so figured this should be easier from what I hear. Going to 4.56 ratio and the axles are form an 99 XJ but are in a MJ.
I hear even bearings of the same brand can still have differences that can throw your pattern off. On my dana 30 I ended up having to press off the new carrier bearings and move some shims around to get it right since they were that different compared to the mock up set. Your final pattern didn't look to bad maybe the pinion was in to deep by like .002 but what you got should wear in just fine. Got the carrier out finally. A bit harder getting the c clips out with a spartan locker. Hopefully over the next week I'll have it back together.
One question where did you get the torque specs? I see a lot of people say torque the bearing cap bolts to 100ftlbs and the yukon gear book says 60ftlbs and a cut out from what looks like the field service manual says 70ftlbs.
My end pattern was definitely not as good as my setup pattern. Fortunately it seems to run good with no noticeable noise and the wear on the gears from braking them in looks very even across the tooth. That sucks that you had to press off the bearings and tweak things but probably a good job that you did.
I found the torque specs on a forum which is totally unreliable. I went with 90ftlb in the end just because I saw 75 on one place and 100 on another. I did see how ever multiple threads with a 100ftlb on them so thought it must be right. That's on the 8.25 though, I think the Dana 30hp is like 55?
@@WorkshoptoWilderness yup The dana 30 HP is 55 or 60 ft lbs. Well I got the new bearings and ring gear on the carrier also grinded down one tooth for the pin to fit. Now I have to get the old pinion nut off which the impact can't handle so hopefully a large pipe will help me loosen it.
Sounds like your almost there. Shame that the impact didn't work. Saves a bit of time but then again it's hopefully a job you only do once so it's not too bad. Let me know how it goes,
Great Video ✅ when I rebuilt my Dana 35 I wish I had known enough to go to 8.25🤓🇺🇸
Its held up pretty good so far but some chromoly's would be a nice upgrade on it. Thanks again!
Well done man.... The pattern looks good to me..... A long job, but worth it in the end! The first time I did it, it seemed to take me 20 hours an axle..... lol I have friends that can do it in 2 hours..... lol
Thanks for that! It seems to run well so fingers crossed it all holds up. Took me a couple of days on that haha. I cant imagine pulling it off in two hours!
i have a set of these waiting for my dodge ram project, i took the chance purchasing these because of the outstanding service at rons machine shop that i think actually makes those inhouse
now that a year has passed since you installed them, what do you think of them?
I have no complaints at all to be honest. I've run them all over and the jeeps not light for an XJ. I also do a lot of snow wheeling and axle hop and such hasn't damaged them yet.
The gear wear is also good. No scoring or anything to worry about. Over all I would use them again without worry. I broke them in on mineral oil then ran Redline 75w90
What backlash do you try to set for a JT on 5:13's?
I would probably check the gears your using. Normally its between 6 tho and 10 tho but I would always go with the tighter number.
I feel like you've done a good job there. I prefer the adjustable screw type differentials to the shims personally. About those dana 35 gears, installing a used gear set is tough, it's one thing to reinstall used gears into their original housing with the original shims but Installing used gears into a new/different housing with a different pattern is very tough. The used gears need to be in perfect condition with bluing still on the teeth or I wouldn't even attempt it. The fact that you saw pitting or even shinyness where it's really worn in over lots of miles tells me that gear set was doomed from the start so I wouldn't even worry about that dana 35 experience it was just a learning process. I think this gear set will work just fine I didn't see anything during your install thats too worrying. just break it in carefully they like short trips up to and under 50mph to warm up and completely cool multiple times if you can. When you do your dana 30 you should make a set up nut for your pinion because you can really mess up the threads spinning the locking nut on and off a bunch, sometimes you can shave off the pinched section of the nut. If you can borrow or purchase a differential spreader that might make your job a lot easier on the dana 30 especially since your nervous and don't have as much experience it makes it slightly easier I picked one up online for 120 dollars and it makes it so much easier to get your shims just right.
If you're interested in rear disc brakes I've heard the jeep liberty kj rear disc is a direct bolt on swap no modifications like with the grand cherokee brakes. I'm not sure if you have the same proportioning valve as we do in the states but when you go to rear disc you change the plunger and spring and everything out from a grand cherokee its super simple. If you ever decide you want to do the rear disc and need anything I can help you source parts they are dirt cheap at my local wrecking yards and I have a few zj proportioning valves in my stash already. I ran rear drum for years and honestly didn't mind it much. I upgraded to the larger rear drum brakes at one point. When you do wj brakes you may want rear disc for ease of maintenance and cleaning etc..
Ah well that makes me feel a lot better about the Dana 35. It was my first regearing experience and I lost some confidence there. The gears were shot I think, lots of chips and worn areas. Anyway I'm happy you haven't seen anything strange with the installation, they are working fine and making no noise so I'm very happy. It drives so much better, more power, shifting better and I have 5th gear with boost in all the right places.
The rear brakes are definitely on the cards. That's kind to offer some help on locating parts. I need to find an old liberty and drag it to work to butcher and pillage it. There is one going for free 30 miles from here but it has rear drums. It's got a 8.25 rear but I'm guessing the liberty 8.25 with abs shafts are non compatible? I could do with some spares. Your axle shafts are almost here!! Very excited
@@WorkshoptoWilderness definitely do a little googling about the liberty brake swap I'm 95 percent sure it's a direct bolt on swap other than maybe the brake lines? I looked it up really quick and I did find some RUclips videos on it. I searched "cherokee xj liberty brake swap"
I don't think it matters if it has abs or not? I'd have to look into it.
I know the grand cherokee zj disc brakes take some modifications to fit but I've read the liberty kj is a direct bolt on or at least it's much easier.
Then you'll want to look up how to change the proportioning valve guts it's super simple if you have the same stuff we do in the states. The only thing with the proportioning valve swap is you want to change everything don't use your original seal or plunger even though it looks the same just swap everything out of the disc brake model to reduce possible problems its really easy to find pictures and videos about it. You don't need to change the proportioning valve guts right away if you cant find them I've driven with both styles and I prefer the disc stuff.
Hello my friend once more love your job!!!
What else you believe i should do except regearing so i can make my engine rolling and speeding better????
2.5 diesel 33 size tyre 4.56 gears
thanks in advance
Thanks for watching. There are many things you can do to the engine for more power. It just depends on how much you would like to do.
I have a play list on modifying this engine for more power - ruclips.net/p/PLQQXgt9BFgARUPF53xgncZF2nlcCqJmwV&si=Zvb1d8OqQlamiZox
Hey like I got a 97 Xj and I’m really curious on ur seats I personally am not the biggest fan of the stock front seats and rear bench seat I really wanna l know what u did with yours. That would be greatly appreciated
Hey, its a question that comes up quite a bit. They are standard XJ seats but from the European export models. Its a different seat as I think Jeep did it to compete with Landrover and other European brands when selling in Europe. The ZJ seat conversion will probabaly be a better alternative for you if your US based. Thanks for watching.
I have a 2.5 VM XJ and I will put 33x12.5x15 tires so I'm wondering if 4.56 gears are too big or would 4.10 be better? Actually, I'm most interested in what the RPMs are at 100 kmh in 5th speed? I don't have anyone to ask with the VM XJ so I would really appreciate an opinion.
I will also put Detroit Truetrac front and rear.
I'm on 35s with 4.88 and 100kmh is about 2200rpm for me. Its pretty nice because my turbo is in its torque curve and it pulls up hills and doesn't loose power like this.
I think with a 33 and 4.56 you should be around the same I would have thought. A 35 is more like a 34 anyway and a 33 is often just a 32 when you measure them out. I use to run 32s on 4.11 and the jeep would be at a gearing disadvantage in 5th at 100kmh. The revs were not quite high enough and on hill climbs it would gradually loose power.
@@WorkshoptoWilderness ok, thank you very much. I appreciate it. Cheers!
lol @ "The budget. There is a budget."
😂 Am no expert your very talented mate 👍 🏴
I have a 5 speed XJ on 33"s and trying to decide what to regear to. My biggest issue right now is simply the difficulty of driving it. 1st gear feels like it starts out at a 100mph and I feel like I'll be putting a clutch in it quickly if I continue to drive it. What would you recommend?
What gears are in it currently? 4.56 would be what I would use on 33's but then its a bit different with the TD. What do you use the jeep for?
@@WorkshoptoWilderness I haven't actually jacked it up and figured out the ratio myself. But all manual 4.0's came with 3.07s so that's what I'm thinking is in it.
Now the front to look fwd to!
Do you experiment with the gear oil you use?
My Dana30 and Dana35 are stock gears and only running 29s currently but I decided to try some Castrol Syntrax 75w140 with the imagination that it could protect any higher loads I could throw at it in future.
Yeah I will tackle the front tomorrow evening after work. I have played around with oil and now I use a 75w90 limited slip oil in the back and a 75w90 gl5 oil in the front. I quite like Redline. Seems very good quality. How's the oil working out for you? Thanks for watching
@@WorkshoptoWilderness well it slowed the leak at the pinion on the front axle... I will do seal some day when I feel brave. Apart from that I've not had them open since added but I'm hoping they're nicely buttered by it :p , its smooth anyway.
I'm pretty sure my dana35 doesnt have the LSD so I just used gl5 75w140 , I guess if I'm wrong then I definitely wont have a lsd when I'm done haha.
Love Jeep Videos! Thanks 👍🇺🇸
Thanks for watching!
How did you address the clearance issue with the cross pin and the ring gear? I've been researching the 8.25 gear change a while and I ran across some talk on the forums and in other videos where they ground down the ring gear slightly to allow clearance. I also found that Richmond Gear has a solution (Richmond PN 836-80-0278-1), that allows you to install the ring/pinion with the cross pin installed. Richmond notches the cross pin 90 degrees from the spider gear interface surface. With that application, you rotate the pin 90 degrees from the install position to insert 1 c-clip, rotate it 180 from that point to install the other, then rotate it back to the correct orientation. Any thoughts? I have a spare 8.25 (and a Dana 30) that I was going to upgrade to 29 spline, locker and 4.88; but I'm seriously considering finding a Ford 8.8 instead.
I ground a tooth down slightly to get it in. I only needed to do one tooth at the toe right at the back by the cross pin hole. I've driven about 3000 miles on this gear now and I've not heard anything yet so I guess its okay. I didn't use a grinder though, I borrowed a small dremel tool with a sanding cylinder on the end and just took away the absolute minimum possible on one tooth. When putting the ring gear on you can line it up so it's just one tooth worth of interference instead of more.
@@WorkshoptoWilderness Thanks for the feedback. Some of the other sources indicated it was a significant amount on multiple teeth. That would change thing a lot. I see your point on using sanding drums with a rotary tool instead of a grinder. You probably went through a few drums; but I bet the ground surface was very smooth afterward. That likely mitigates crack propagation. My plan is go from a 4.5" lift on 31s to 6.5" to 8" on 35s with trusses and lockers. The 8.25 should be fine then.
Eating bearings, talk of mustard and cucumbers... are you sure you're getting enough to eat? 😄 Those are some great times with you and your boy! I remember doing the same with my dad in the ol Plymouth wagon and I done the same with my daughter in my F-150. Now go have a sandwich before you start nibbling on the brake lines!👍
I was pretty hungry. Problem is I get into the job and I just can't stop. He's a lovely little chap, great fun at the moment with his age. He absolutely loves the jeep which is nice as he enjoys just being in his seat and being driven around. That might make our holiday travels a little easier. Thanks for watching
You're a Great Dad!!! 👌😁
CLEAN
Forgive me, but shouldnt the bearings be greased in ?
I've seen some people do that but it didn't make sense given they are in a bath of gear oil and you probably wouldn't want to add anything foreign to that oil. The grease might effect the preload figure for the pinion also as its viscousty isn't the same as gear oil.
@@WorkshoptoWilderness OK, thatś what i was learned at school, car mechanics.... in -92. The outer pinion bearing...
Ah okay. I've not seen anything like that when researching this. The outer pinion has an oil reservoir around it so I presume its all good.
I hope 🙏
methodical as always .. judging from Mike's clothing , i guess spring has arrived in Sweden ??
Yeah spring is almost here. Spring winter I guess they call it now. Hopefully the work lasts haha, thanks again
@@WorkshoptoWilderness Are you living in Sweden now?
@@peterblasek7356 Yeah we moved here about four years ago.
How is this setup holding up?
No noise and run good. I've been wheeling it all winter.
@@WorkshoptoWilderness should I do mine?
@@moejr14 it depends, do you feel like you should in relation to tire size and gearing?
@@WorkshoptoWilderness well, I actually have 488 gears right now that I had a guy do but the pinion bearing is going out and I don’t wanna take it back to him
@@moejr14 Ah okay, well you don't need to worry about everything I have done in the is video. You can just pull the carrier and then then pinion and replace the bearing. Getting the old bearing off is a bit annoying
What ya gonna do with the ring and pinion?? I need 4.10!
You can have them, just pay shipping if that works? I can send the chrysler 8.25 with the original shim so you know the thickness. Same with the Dana 30. I'm regearing the 30 tomorrow so I will have front and back in 4.10.
@@WorkshoptoWilderness I'd totally do that it's a high pinion 30 right? No damage on either?
Its a high pinion 30 with no damage. The chrysler 8.25 looks fine also. They both run quite and have only been used on the road and medium offroad use. I oil changed them every year.
@@WorkshoptoWilderness sweet do you have any idea what shipping would run to Utah?
Probably around 50 dollars tracked. Would take about 10 days max to get there I think.
Watching you do this made me to never want to do this 💀
I will never do it again if I can help it. The prep work takes a long time and the regear takes longer.