I realize that JIC and AN are not expressly interchangeable - but I've never ever had a leak between a JIC and AN fitting, despite having done it many, many times. As far as I'm concerned, they're interchangeable with the exception that JIC are almost always steel and therefore capable of significantly higher pressure than aluminum AN fittings.
Yes they are 100% same thread and sizing as jic.. the AN system was for unskilled mechanics in the army/navy to have a basic hose system as it would of taken too long to train them in imperial fittings from all over the world... also these Chinese made aluminium parts are way lower quality than the steel fittings
@@bingysbackyard I hate to admit it, but I've used a whole mess of cheapie Chinese push-lok AN fittings. The "evil energy" brand comes to mind. They work just fine. Haven't had a single issue with them. If I were building a top-tier race car with a budget of $250k, I'd absolutely not use them - but for my toy IS300 hot streetcar - I just don't see any advantage in spending the extra cash on Earls, Aeroquip or Russel.
You know what i really like? Fuel injection clamps! They are very strong band clamps that tighten with a nut and bolt. I wish they came in bigger size offerings. I also love Oetiker stepless screw clamps with tension spring💪
This is extremely helpful! I have worked in motorsport shop specialized in historic racecars mostly Sierra cosworth and one of rhe most common issues where leaks.
I know tractor pullers going 100 psi on silicone hose, the trick is to push the pibes all the way inside so they almost touch, then use loads of hose clamps (the good wide ones) I know they run 7 3 on each side and one on the gap in the middle so the silicone can't expand. And they never have issues
Some may be looking at industrial/heavy machinery hydraulic fittings, with the correct hoses, as an option - this may seem to be a cheaper, or more available, option, but you DO need to be aware of things like the fittings usually having very restrictive bores as wall thickness is important for strength and fatigue resistance with 300-350bar operating pressures. For silicone, and even rubber, low pressure hoses, they're usually available in a range of operating pressures - be sure of what you need, and what you're actually getting.
Sam here is getting pretty epic at them, it's from his work in the motorsport plumbing course. I'll make sure he sees your comment, he'll be chuffed 😎- Taz.
"AN is not metric or imperial..." Yes, the hose sizing is imperial. It matches up to the hydraulic hose world, 90% of the stuff(loosely speaking) is imperial sizes.
Any suggestions on obtaining crimp on hose ends? Or could JIC hydraulic connectors with corresponding hose work in combination with weld on AN/JIC bungs?
Obviously Jamie here would strongly recommend Raceworks haha If they don't suit you due to your location, there are a lot of different suppliers out there. Ask around your local car/motorsport club to find someone local-ish if you can't find a company online that you're happy with - Taz.
I think is all risk and reward. Loosing a coolant hose and getting home on a tow is not great but not too expensive. Loosing an oil supply hose on a $200,000 engine is a really bad day, loosing it on during comletition is even worse. so that overkill AN hose is cheap insurance for a race team.
Used them extensively along with steel lines for 20 years in the military. Excellent product but I’m glad I didn’t have to pay for them. We had a connex that would be mounted on the back of a truck when we trained or deployed. Inside it contained all of the bulk hose, fittings and tools required to assemble as needed. The turbines in the tanks used fuel as a hydraulic and sensing medium. A turbine in a steel box tends to shorten the life of anything that isn’t steel.
About the only place I've ever used traditional rubber is for coolant, and as it turns out I use a heavy wall, steel braid-reinforced rubber set of lines in the power steering system which currently runs around 1300 psi, albeit at full runout (hydroboost). Everything else is PTFE, no exceptions. I find PTFE assembly to be easier, personally. Earl's is my fav brand, XRP coming in a close second. I also love some Staubli QDs as well as Jiffy Tite to a lesser extent. My opinion on hardlines is two things: 1) use them to the greatest extent in places where the line does not need to articulate or move at all. 2) use SS over Cu or Al as it is the most durable and if its the 300 series alloy then it's pretty much corrosion proof. For brake systems in tight confines with tight bends, Cu might be the best option. You have to be careful using dissimilar metals, though. I once used aluminum sleeves/nuts on a flared section of copper and the green copper-oxide layer actually cracked the tubes sleeves over the months/years. They didnt leak, but upon any servicing of the line it would need to be remade. I suppose SS sleeves/nuts would be the more correct choice.
The Miltary, Army/Navy/Airforce would not use cheap aluminium fittings.. Comparing this chinese stuff to the quality steel fittings that is actually used is very misleading Also the AN system was created for unskilled mechanics during the war to have a basic quick too understand hose system as there was not enough time to train them in all the different threads and fittings from around the world Also AN fittings ARE JIC fitting threads, but they dumb down the threads sizes to 1 standard fitting size per the hose size, when in reality there is actually around 3 thread sizes per hose size in JIC system... 1 day there will be a huge car fire from using these chinese poor quality aluminium fittings.. and someone will die... who is going to be accountable?
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TIME STAMPS:
0:00 - AN Fittings
1:30 - Braided Hose
1:43 - Rubber
2:10 - PTFE
3:04 - Exotic Fuel Vs Rubber
3:50 - Push Lock
4:35 - PRO TIP!
4:48 - Reusable Hose Ends
5:22 - Crimp Hose Ends
6:15 - Weight PTFE Vs Rubber
6:35 - Hard Lines
7:24 - Silicone Couplers
7:50 - Wiggins Clamps
8:51 - Flare/Beads
9:47 - Don't Be A Gorilla
10:14 - Flexible Options
11:09 - Understanding 'Dash' Sizing
12:19 - Hose & Fittings Compatibility
12:51 - Raceworks - Thanks Jamie!
13:15 - BUILD.TUNE.DRIVE
Good to see this young lad get more and more comfortable with interviewing.
Was pleasure to listen to. B roll is always top notch!
5:30 Oh my lord, that is the most beautiful turbo 4 cylinder engine bay i've ever laid eye upon.
amazing video, extremely informative
Yea that sure is on another level. Show Queen.
The whole car is pretty immaculate! - www.hpacademy.com/blog/a-900hp-run-in-tune-4g63-madness-evokng/?
@@zanerasmussen8889 they roll race it - Taz.
Literally the best informative video I've seen in awhile.
This is how i generally feel about HPA as a company. Just a well of knowledge
Thanks for the support team 😎
I realize that JIC and AN are not expressly interchangeable - but I've never ever had a leak between a JIC and AN fitting, despite having done it many, many times. As far as I'm concerned, they're interchangeable with the exception that JIC are almost always steel and therefore capable of significantly higher pressure than aluminum AN fittings.
Yes they are 100% same thread and sizing as jic.. the AN system was for unskilled mechanics in the army/navy to have a basic hose system as it would of taken too long to train them in imperial fittings from all over the world... also these Chinese made aluminium parts are way lower quality than the steel fittings
I've wondered this for a long time, I have easy access to make hoses with JIC fittings, good to know I can screw em right on to AN fittings
@@bingysbackyard I hate to admit it, but I've used a whole mess of cheapie Chinese push-lok AN fittings. The "evil energy" brand comes to mind. They work just fine. Haven't had a single issue with them.
If I were building a top-tier race car with a budget of $250k, I'd absolutely not use them - but for my toy IS300 hot streetcar - I just don't see any advantage in spending the extra cash on Earls, Aeroquip or Russel.
You know what i really like? Fuel injection clamps! They are very strong band clamps that tighten with a nut and bolt. I wish they came in bigger size offerings. I also love Oetiker stepless screw clamps with tension spring💪
This is extremely helpful! I have worked in motorsport shop specialized in historic racecars mostly Sierra cosworth and one of rhe most common issues where leaks.
Thanks a lot for including the video footage of what you're talking about. Makes it all a lot easier to understand
I know tractor pullers going 100 psi on silicone hose, the trick is to push the pibes all the way inside so they almost touch, then use loads of hose clamps (the good wide ones) I know they run 7 3 on each side and one on the gap in the middle so the silicone can't expand. And they never have issues
Some may be looking at industrial/heavy machinery hydraulic fittings, with the correct hoses, as an option - this may seem to be a cheaper, or more available, option, but you DO need to be aware of things like the fittings usually having very restrictive bores as wall thickness is important for strength and fatigue resistance with 300-350bar operating pressures.
For silicone, and even rubber, low pressure hoses, they're usually available in a range of operating pressures - be sure of what you need, and what you're actually getting.
That ram forging graphic was cool
Sam here is getting pretty epic at them, it's from his work in the motorsport plumbing course. I'll make sure he sees your comment, he'll be chuffed 😎- Taz.
A bit Adults-Only though
Very informative interview! Yes please come to NZ 🇳🇿
Cheers mate! Glad you enjoyed this one! - Taz.
I bet Al and Woody are here learning a bit more. Love you boys
Overkill for street applications with low power numbers. Definitely a must in high hp applications
"AN is not metric or imperial..."
Yes, the hose sizing is imperial. It matches up to the hydraulic hose world, 90% of the stuff(loosely speaking) is imperial sizes.
Any suggestions on obtaining crimp on hose ends? Or could JIC hydraulic connectors with corresponding hose work in combination with weld on AN/JIC bungs?
Who are the best suppliers for these hoses n fittings
Obviously Jamie here would strongly recommend Raceworks haha
If they don't suit you due to your location, there are a lot of different suppliers out there. Ask around your local car/motorsport club to find someone local-ish if you can't find a company online that you're happy with - Taz.
I think is all risk and reward. Loosing a coolant hose and getting home on a tow is not great but not too expensive. Loosing an oil supply hose on a $200,000 engine is a really bad day, loosing it on during comletition is even worse. so that overkill AN hose is cheap insurance for a race team.
What's your opinion on options like rubber vs PTFE or AN fittings and hoses in general? - Taz.
Expensive option but I love em and wouldn't have it any other way
Used them extensively along with steel lines for 20 years in the military. Excellent product but I’m glad I didn’t have to pay for them. We had a connex that would be mounted on the back of a truck when we trained or deployed. Inside it contained all of the bulk hose, fittings and tools required to assemble as needed. The turbines in the tanks used fuel as a hydraulic and sensing medium. A turbine in a steel box tends to shorten the life of anything that isn’t steel.
About the only place I've ever used traditional rubber is for coolant, and as it turns out I use a heavy wall, steel braid-reinforced rubber set of lines in the power steering system which currently runs around 1300 psi, albeit at full runout (hydroboost). Everything else is PTFE, no exceptions. I find PTFE assembly to be easier, personally. Earl's is my fav brand, XRP coming in a close second. I also love some Staubli QDs as well as Jiffy Tite to a lesser extent. My opinion on hardlines is two things: 1) use them to the greatest extent in places where the line does not need to articulate or move at all. 2) use SS over Cu or Al as it is the most durable and if its the 300 series alloy then it's pretty much corrosion proof. For brake systems in tight confines with tight bends, Cu might be the best option. You have to be careful using dissimilar metals, though. I once used aluminum sleeves/nuts on a flared section of copper and the green copper-oxide layer actually cracked the tubes sleeves over the months/years. They didnt leak, but upon any servicing of the line it would need to be remade. I suppose SS sleeves/nuts would be the more correct choice.
Got PTFE and an in the street car because I like the look over rubber
Man has a turtle neck sweater tan
Never seen a tan move like that 😅 There's only one rational explanation...👽 - Taz.
The Miltary, Army/Navy/Airforce would not use cheap aluminium fittings..
Comparing this chinese stuff to the quality steel fittings that is actually used is very misleading
Also the AN system was created for unskilled mechanics during the war to have a basic quick too understand hose system as there was not enough time to train them in all the different threads and fittings from around the world
Also AN fittings ARE JIC fitting threads,
but they dumb down the threads sizes to 1 standard fitting size per the hose size, when in reality there is actually around 3 thread sizes per hose size in JIC system...
1 day there will be a huge car fire from using these chinese poor quality aluminium fittings..
and someone will die... who is going to be accountable?
I went from RACEWORKS to BMRS after seeing the thumbnail S15 in person and all the other wtac cars use them.