Building a fast car? Get $400 OFF the VIP package with every current and FUTURE course included: hpcdmy.co/vipy9 Learn Engine Building today with 50% OFF your first course: hpcdmy.co/offery9 TIME STAMPS: 0:00 - Why Do We Balance Engine Components? 0:48 - Inline or Horizontally Opposed 1:32 - V4, V6 & V8 Etc 1:48 - V Bob Weight 2:15 - LS V8 Situation 2:48 - Piston Balancing 3:35 - Wrist Pin Consideration 4:22 - Piston Weight Removal 5:28 - How Much Material Should You Remove? 6:06 - Avoid These Areas 6:48 - Connecting Rod Balancing 7:40 - Con Rod Balancing Fixture 8:06 - Big End Weight Removal 8:20 - Don't Weaken Your Con Rods 9:31 - Linisher 9:48 - Small End Weight Removal 10:58 - Don't Overheat The Rods 11:20 - Engine Machinist & Rotating Assembly 13:32 - Harmonic Balancing Is Differnet 14:20 - What Are Harmonics? 15:45 - Common Failure: Oil Pumps 16:08 - SFI Rated Dampers 16:55 - Consider A Damper 17:11 - Lesson Summary & Next Lesson 17:30 - BUILD.TUNE.DRIVE
Exciting stuff mate! Hope you are enjoying the building process so far, although it always ends up taking a bit longer than we want or plan right haha - Taz.
That is the correct way to balance the rod, get the big ends all the same weight, then take the total weight of the lightest rod and match the other rods to that total weight by grinding the small end, the reciprocating weight is more critical than the weight going up and down! Great job ! I balanced engines years ago, was taught by a very intelligent man ,thanks for teaching the right way !
Okay, so do I WPC treat and DLC coat my engine before or after balancing? I think it's done after but before assembly. I'd just like confirmation or correction as necessary.
you should mention that the reason for v engines being balanced differently is the not symetrical crank... a v12 with 60 degrees for example has a pretty much regular straight 6 crank
Doing a 60 deg v60 I found that engines are done with a 25 to 55% of the reciprocating weight. GM specify 50% for this engine. But seeing how the span is so big from engine to engine it begs the question how important it is exactly to balance the crank. Also you have the question of what part of the rod is actually the reciprocating weight.. My machinist adviced against it actually. He pressed instead on having the rod/pistons beas close to each other as possible. Since Ive lighten them some 30 gr and are within 1gr och each other he argued that its a big improvement even without balancing the crank. Also since its a street engine with 6000 max rpm youre not in danger so to speak anyways.
8 grams, 8" from center at 8000rpm = 112# of out of balance force, a US currency is close to 1gram , you are dealing with a few variables like oil on the downstoke verses the up stroke.....
I still don't really get what we're trying to achieve with this. Is it just to make all of the pistons the exact same weight as each other? If so then why don't the aftermarket piston manufacturers already do that before sending them out? Seems weird that everyone who receives them all have to take a grinder to them straight away
Yes. But don't use a grinder. Some are matched, some are not. We've sent some back where 3 pistons we're from a different batch and the 4rh was so different in weight it wasn't worth bothering with balancing due to how much material would need to be removed. The replacement set was much closer. Basically you don't know what you're dealing with till you pop things on the scale and find out no matter what you think should or shouldn't be done for you 😎 - Taz.
Can we discuss this some more? The people who advocate solid under drive crank pulleys say that after a while, the 2 piece, rubber sandwiching harmonic pulleys' rubber get hard, & therefore, they essentially become a solid pulley, & nothing negatively happens to the attached engine(so it's theoretically safe)... What are your thoughts & advice with that in mind? (I am STRONGLY for the improved efficiency & available HP of lightened smaller diameter pulleys\REALLY TEMPTED) Thanks... =]
No matter how close you get the weights of components the same, you still have one variable you can't compensate for, and that's the difference between oil trapped under the piston on the up stroke verses oil under the piston on the down stroke...and if it has piston cooling jets under the piston it makes any compensation even more difficult...
Yup;! You can only control what you can control, unless you are a well funded F1 team etc, not that you are competing at their level anyway. This work shown is easy low hanging fruit comparatively 😎 - Taz
If you are trying to balance an engine closer than 1/4 ounce inch you are wasting time and energy and if you are running above 7000rpm most of the time you need to put some over balance to the reciprocating weight of 3%-4% and if you run in the 9000 and up range go to 5% added to reciprocating numbers...
We paid $150 USD then $300++ USD for some USA made scales from a well known company that didn't work as good as this $30 set which we bought out of frustration and curiosity. As discussed, repeatability is important, and that is easy to test. You're not weighing Grandma's medication; you're weighing the difference and a lot of the GOOD quality cheaper scales will do that just fine 😎 That said, you can purchase and use whatever you like, this is just what we used and found worked accurately for us. Painters scales are often mentioned by enthusiasts as being a good option too - Taz.
![How To Balance Your Pistons And Connecting Rods [#TECHTALK]](/img/1.gif)
Building a fast car? Get $400 OFF the VIP package with every current and FUTURE course included: hpcdmy.co/vipy9
Learn Engine Building today with 50% OFF your first course: hpcdmy.co/offery9
TIME STAMPS:
0:00 - Why Do We Balance Engine Components?
0:48 - Inline or Horizontally Opposed
1:32 - V4, V6 & V8 Etc
1:48 - V Bob Weight
2:15 - LS V8 Situation
2:48 - Piston Balancing
3:35 - Wrist Pin Consideration
4:22 - Piston Weight Removal
5:28 - How Much Material Should You Remove?
6:06 - Avoid These Areas
6:48 - Connecting Rod Balancing
7:40 - Con Rod Balancing Fixture
8:06 - Big End Weight Removal
8:20 - Don't Weaken Your Con Rods
9:31 - Linisher
9:48 - Small End Weight Removal
10:58 - Don't Overheat The Rods
11:20 - Engine Machinist & Rotating Assembly
13:32 - Harmonic Balancing Is Differnet
14:20 - What Are Harmonics?
15:45 - Common Failure: Oil Pumps
16:08 - SFI Rated Dampers
16:55 - Consider A Damper
17:11 - Lesson Summary & Next Lesson
17:30 - BUILD.TUNE.DRIVE
Factsstic video. As a mechanical engineering student it’s great to see everything I’m learning with dynamic and static balancing in real application
Dope! I’m a 2nd year mech e
Good timing on this video. My new pistons and rods are showing up this week and this was the next thing i needed info on ❤
Exciting stuff mate! Hope you are enjoying the building process so far, although it always ends up taking a bit longer than we want or plan right haha - Taz.
That is the correct way to balance the rod, get the big ends all the same weight, then take the total weight of the lightest rod and match the other rods to that total weight by grinding the small end, the reciprocating weight is more critical than the weight going up and down! Great job ! I balanced engines years ago, was taught by a very intelligent man ,thanks for teaching the right way !
Boss Andre s the MAN. How every teacher/instructor should be ❤
If you're trying to get the balance better than 1/4 ounce inch you are waistng time and money
Fantastic video, I learn a lot with your videos! Thanks
Great video at a great time for me building my engine. Would you say that this could be applied to diesel engines aswell especially a 5 cylinder?
Mercedes? Those are cool engines
Okay, so do I WPC treat and DLC coat my engine before or after balancing? I think it's done after but before assembly. I'd just like confirmation or correction as necessary.
you should mention that the reason for v engines being balanced differently is the not symetrical crank... a v12 with 60 degrees for example has a pretty much regular straight 6 crank
Inline engines don't use Bob weights
@@ChiefCabioch that's what I'm saying , inline 4-6 engines and V12 engines don't need it cause most of the time they have a symmetrical crank shaft
@majorva2653 a Detroit Diesel V12 would need Bob weights, there are twelve independent throws on the crank.
@@ChiefCabioch it's not symmetrical then so it needs some with a split pin crank xd
Doing a 60 deg v60 I found that engines are done with a 25 to 55% of the reciprocating weight.
GM specify 50% for this engine. But seeing how the span is so big from engine to engine it begs the question how important it is exactly to balance the crank. Also you have the question of what part of the rod is actually the reciprocating weight..
My machinist adviced against it actually. He pressed instead on having the rod/pistons beas close to each other as possible. Since Ive lighten them some 30 gr and are within 1gr och each other he argued that its a big improvement even without balancing the crank.
Also since its a street engine with 6000 max rpm youre not in danger so to speak anyways.
Balance ⚖️ crankshaft with flywheel attached
8 grams, 8" from center at 8000rpm = 112# of out of balance force, a US currency is close to 1gram , you are dealing with a few variables like oil on the downstoke verses the up stroke.....
I still don't really get what we're trying to achieve with this. Is it just to make all of the pistons the exact same weight as each other? If so then why don't the aftermarket piston manufacturers already do that before sending them out? Seems weird that everyone who receives them all have to take a grinder to them straight away
Yes. But don't use a grinder.
Some are matched, some are not. We've sent some back where 3 pistons we're from a different batch and the 4rh was so different in weight it wasn't worth bothering with balancing due to how much material would need to be removed.
The replacement set was much closer.
Basically you don't know what you're dealing with till you pop things on the scale and find out no matter what you think should or shouldn't be done for you 😎 - Taz.
Fucking hello yeah. U r the best
Wait.. Did the presenter change half way through the video?
Can we discuss this some more? The people who advocate solid under drive crank pulleys say that after a while, the 2 piece, rubber sandwiching harmonic pulleys' rubber get hard, & therefore, they essentially become a solid pulley, & nothing negatively happens to the attached engine(so it's theoretically safe)... What are your thoughts & advice with that in mind? (I am STRONGLY for the improved efficiency & available HP of lightened smaller diameter pulleys\REALLY TEMPTED) Thanks... =]
No matter how close you get the weights of components the same, you still have one variable you can't compensate for, and that's the difference between oil trapped under the piston on the up stroke verses oil under the piston on the down stroke...and if it has piston cooling jets under the piston it makes any compensation even more difficult...
Yup;! You can only control what you can control, unless you are a well funded F1 team etc, not that you are competing at their level anyway.
This work shown is easy low hanging fruit comparatively 😎 - Taz
@hpa101 what was that word salad all about genius?...for the record you don't have a fuckin clue what I'm involved with...
If you are trying to balance an engine closer than 1/4 ounce inch you are wasting time and energy and if you are running above 7000rpm most of the time you need to put some over balance to the reciprocating weight of 3%-4% and if you run in the 9000 and up range go to 5% added to reciprocating numbers...
3:00 "A quality set of digital scales" - pulls out the cheapest and literally worst scale on the market.
We paid $150 USD then $300++ USD for some USA made scales from a well known company that didn't work as good as this $30 set which we bought out of frustration and curiosity.
As discussed, repeatability is important, and that is easy to test. You're not weighing Grandma's medication; you're weighing the difference and a lot of the GOOD quality cheaper scales will do that just fine 😎
That said, you can purchase and use whatever you like, this is just what we used and found worked accurately for us.
Painters scales are often mentioned by enthusiasts as being a good option too - Taz.
Teaching things you have no idea of . All the wrong places to remove weight.
This is where the manufacturer also recommends noting you haven't offered any alternatives here yourself for anyone else to address or discuss - Taz.
Thanks for courageously letting everybody know the way YOU would do it.