Clean Beds = Happy 3D Printers! - PrintFixFriday 139
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- Опубликовано: 8 июл 2024
- In this week’s #PrintFix Friday, @3DPrinty shows the importance of a well-cleaned bed, @3DPrintingNerd's got a particularly unique nozzle clog, and a sad, bent Revo. We’re talking about how to fix all that and more, right here!
Have you ever seen a more unique clog than Joel’s? Let us know in the comments!
Go check out the creators in this video:
/ 1787603498382606489
/ 1787184969691058473
/ 1786478933564695016
Link:
The Elven Dice Tower Bear3DTek modeled: www.printables.com/model/8699...
Cards:
Vision Miner/LDO/Positron Interviews (RMRRF 1): • STICKY UPSIDE DOWN 3D ...
RMRRF 2024 Playlist: • RMRRF 2024
PrintFix 138: • Spontaneously Breaking...
PrintFix 125 (Bambu Lab A1 Fire Hazard): • Bambu Lab A1: Potentia...
E3D/Bambu High Flow Nozzles: • Make Your BAMBU FASTER...
0:00 Intro
1:06 3D Printy's Dirty Print Bed: Discovering the power of dish soap.
5:37 Crushed Nextruder: The problem with overtightening a Nextruder.
7:01 Big Wigglies 3: Difficulty printing a bunch of tall, thin poles.
11:07 Bent Revo: What to do when your Revo is crooked.
14:40 Outro
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thanks for featuring my post and thanks for helping out during the design process! I learned a lot and hopefully more people will learn from it =)
I was watching this and then saw your comment. Nice looking tower. Glad you found adding that flat "bridge" near the peak helped. I can't tell you the number of times I had to reprint by adding more mass or steeper arch angles.
I like the hourglass-like look between the window and the exit door.
If YOU TOO want to download this model, you can find it here: www.printables.com/model/869974-elven-inspired-dice-tower
Btw it is a Bambulab A1 mini for those who were wondering =)
Another high quality, helpful video! Thank you Grant, for all the help! PFF is awesome!
9:50 I would love a longer form video showing the effect or rarely used/changed slicer settings. I think you could get a lot of great content from that. 👍🇦🇺😊
Your redomendation to use Windex or a dishcleaner detergent is a perfect advice!
IPA does contain a smal ammout of organic "oily" components (long chain organic compounds) from the manufacturing process. When the IPA evaporates these oil stay behind and can cause these adhesion issues. Special purified grade IPA is used in the semiconductor industry would be pur enough but for the price of 1 liter you get an discounted Ender 3. I have dealt with this issue already 20 years ago in the semiconductor industry.
People typically seem to focus on oils when it comes to bed contaminants, but by my understanding it's also important to consider sugars. By my (non expert) experience and understanding, IPA helps clear oils but not so much sugars, and sugars can also affect adhesion. Dish soap is the best way to clear sugars. I have a rule of always washing my hands before going into my printer room to help reduce contamination. And don't touch gummy bears while building a printer unless you want it covered in sugars!
SWEET!!! I'll pack up my printer and I'll be there on sunday.. Well maybe not sunday since its mothers day, but SOON....
I'd love to hear more slicer tips. I switched from prusa slicer to orca slicer two months ago and very happy with it so far.
On the topic of textured build plates: I have two that I use. I use Prusa's for PETG, and an off brand for PLA. Prusa uses the textured build plates in their own print farm for printing parts for their printers, which means they're pretty well optimized for PETG. Unfortunately that's at the expense of PLA, which is why I use an off brand for PLA.
That idea to do live fixes sounds cool!
I was having problems with my textured pei plates after about a month, losing first layer adhesion, & i print huge flat pieces.
i found a video about using steel wool for about 5 minutes in all directions. i tried it with those soapy ones, no go, because they are non-abrasive.
i found some "00" on amazon & tried it out, it works perfectly! you need a little bit of abrasion. if your sheet rolls water off immediately, the same thing will happen with liquid plastic on a molecular level.
also, add some mouse ears for good measure & whola, even huge 300x200mm flat pieces will stay in place every time. but of course, wash that plate daily with regular dawn & you will be fine until you need to steel wool it again every other week or so.
Dawn power wash is what I’ve been using. It’s been great so far.
I've been using Prusa textured sheet almost exclusively for years, had a lot of problems in the beginning but not for long time:
- Touch with fingers as little as possible
- Clean with IPA and paper towel before every print
- use them with one type of filament only, mixing PLA and PETG works for 10-20 prints but at some point both won't stick!
Interesting, I mix all the time and don't have issues.. hmmmmm
@@3DMusketeers For me simply cleaning it with IPA99% before every print was not enough, problems stopped after I bought second pei sheet for pla printing.
I suspect tiny filament particles are left in the groves of the textured sheet with every print, and it impacts the adhesion.
The slicer I like best is SuperSlicer, but I dont use it since it's so outdated, so I use Orca
I got the thumb screws so tight once I couldn't remove it from the heat sink. Worse yet . . . it was an ObXidian. Expensive lesson.
It can be hard to get those thumb screws just right sometimes. I've had problems with them coming loose too.
Bought my i3MK3 in late '18 and it has the Prusa textured coated build plate. For cleaning, I use acetone as much as IPA and I clean the build plate before any print. No visible plate deterioration in all this time. The first month of printing I had some adhesion problems, I lightly wet-sanded the entire textured plate surface with 400 grit Wet/Dry sand paper and those issues disappeared. My experience has been when the first layer height adjustment is good, so go the prints. Last year I bought the Satin Build Plate, I use the aforementioned dish soap or IPA and again, my prints stick even the tiny parts and I avoid "Brims" like the plague. No point here, just my $00.02USD.
ya know a long video about using slicers for beginners can benefit new people getting into 3d printing for the first time so I say go for that style
I just stuck my mk4 nozzle in the oven at 480. I was able to push out like 3 inches out of the nozzle with an allen key. I can tell it's not perfect. I have to let it cool down before I know if that fixed it. There was filament inside the heatbreak part. My fault for not tightening it down enough.
oh and if I forgot to mention before it's PETG.
3:28 no sanding nor complex preparations for the textured bed, just a simple clean with dish soap, dry it with paper towel and 99% isopropyl alcohol. Some filaments may require 3-5 more degrees, but that's it.
Use gloves to handle the build plate. Not only will it keep your skin oils off of it, it will let you handle a hot plate without burning yourself.
I like the satin sheet a lot, but I can't deny smooth does work better. I did print my mmu3 parts on it and I can't get rid of the adhesion surface of the parts. I did try soap and water. I didn't try windex. It just looks ugly. It still works.
Noice
Does Prusa even offer a smooth sheet for the XL?
Yes, I have one, don't know if they are currently stocked/sold
@@tg_73 interesting. I know they have the Satin and Textured, never saw a smooth one before.
They do. Hilariously I have the textured and the satin.. I have a smooth in my cart though with some other stuff.
@@3DMusketeers off to do some shopping at Prusa then.
Something something affiliate link ;)
Orca is the best with the most features, wich all the others r based off of.....................
Other way around. Orca is based on Bambu studio, which is based on Prusa Slicer, which is based on Slic3r
@@3DMusketeers yes it's a fork of bambu but it has all the features and then some, so basically orca slicer is all of the slicers because it's only a modified version of bambu studio, I know the history slick3R I think was first then prusa copied it made it better it was originally called I think slick3R prusa edition and then blah blah blah blah blah blah blah and then now we have the best one orca slicer
The best one so far.