The Smoothest Filament: 3D Printing without layer lines!
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- Опубликовано: 18 фев 2024
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So basically don't bother with this material and smoothing and just spend the extra time with a lower layer height, or buy a resin printer :)
Yeah, except for very specific use cases like balloon dogs 😜
Would adding a small fan to circulate the vapor more evenly help with the collapsing issues. Just a tiny fan connected to a 9V would be pretty safe around the alcohol.
Well, no.
1 - resins are waaay more toxic, and messi
2 - material options are more limited, way more limited
3 - resin costs more
4 - cannot (easily) create models with internal voids
5 - there is no way to do stuff like inserting magnets mid print
6 - large sizes are not only prohibitively costly in terms of material, but are astronomical in printer price.
No, with more patience and calibration, one can get parts that rivals injection molded models. Of course with random amounts of alcohol you get random results. I do with abs and acetone, there is an ideal amount of acetone, too feel and nothing happens, too much and it melts. The parts look much more professional. And even parts with the smallest layer looks terrible when you paint them.
@@AngeloMondainiI've found 50 micron and a 0.25 nozzle to look great when printed.
Loved the blue vase simply turning to paper ahahah
Looked more like the Hindenburg... 😮
12:04 all three are spayed
it just needs a little love
I think I’ll stick to my favorite method of hiding layer lines: GLITTER, LOTS OF GLITTER
Why aren't we using glitter with all our projects??
OK, my prints are about to get a whole load more fabulous!
I prefer mine more:
Random person: "Ugh, look at those ugly lay-AAARGH! MY EYES!"
Me, after stabbing that person's eyes: "Now you dont see them anymore. (👉ﾟヮﾟ)👉"
⚆_⚆
=)
Yeah! Or Carbon/Glass Fibres.
riddle: 10 people got together for a crafting party, 1 person brought glitter, how many projects became glitter projects?
I don't print PVB for anything I want to keep as the final product, but it's my go-to when I'm making a mold for making something from it. I use a medical nebulizer to vaporize IPA in a closed chamber to do the smoothing. Biggest issue is if you go too far bubbles in the layer lines will come up and ruin the finish. Still, it's opened a lot of options for my products.
what products.
@@exceptionalanimations1508 polymaker polysmooth clear for dissolving totally and green for printing. Green is the easiest color to see surface details with for humans. Nebulizer is generic from amazon. Note, printing in clear pvb is almost impossible to see the surface finish.
That's a really cool idea, I hadn't considered making molds by dissolving out the plastic
@@thethubbedone I don't melt out the plastic, I just use PVB because I can get a glass smooth surface. It takes quite a while to dissolve PVB completely, but it should be possible eventually. Still, I wouldn't suggest it.
Have you tried sanding before smoothing? Seems like that could get some good results.
You can buy and drink weingeist /
Primasprit / Trinkalkohol with 96,4%vol. Ethanol
Its used for thinks like cherry spirit (Kirsch Wasser)!
Oh, you win. :) I was just going to post about Screech, whish is basically commercially available moonshine, and that's rated 180 proof which works out to to 90%vol. But that's less than 96.4. :D
We have everclear in the states... 190 proof. But schnapps tastes way better
I was suprised to hear other ones besides everclear @@BKope
i am the jazz musician. i will do this to the jaz zmemoriaphilia
That tool is called a Vero strip cutter. used for cutting tracks on vero strip board. A drill bit is also suitable for this. Yes I'm an old electronics engineer, and still use vero strip board occasionally when prototyping a really simple design when its not worth dropping £30 on a pcb when you only want to build 1 board.
Somehow I thought it was a wire wrapping tool? Looks like an optometrist visit is in order.🤷🏻♂️
My eyes are not great either so you could still be right@@TherapyWithWind
tbh it was an afterthought so I didn't take a particularly good pic of it, but yeah it's the stripboard track breaking tool
I did not know what was a "vero strip board" so I Google it and hit 'image'.
The first results were not related to electronic by any stretch of imagination.
Thank you for sharing.
Spot face cutter, or just use a drill bit. I can't remember which diameter anymore, though. Maybe 6mm? Haven't had the need to use any Veroboard in years, but I probably still have some around in a dark and dusty corner.
I don't hate layer lines. i think they're part of the inherent aesthetic of 3d printed parts. rather than trying to pretend we're making injection molded parts, we should just embrace the natural idiosyncrasies of our process!
But they collect dust particles between those layers and sometimes even unable to get rid off unless sand it down.
I guess it depends if you're trying to make "3D printed parts" or just, you know, *parts.* When I'm making something _functional,_ I don't really care about the process, I care about the thing I'm doing. And having holes or irregularities on the surface makes the part weaker / more prone to friction / harder to clean, etc..
I like PVB because it can be burned out more cleanly than PLA when you're doing lost-filament casting.
My friend helps me make 3D printed sand casting patterns.
They need to be smooth like glass in order to draw from the sand easily.
We used to spend an unholy amount of time with filler paint and hand sanding, which was untenable for inside corners and complex shapes.
Now we use a resin printer for high detail and complex geometry and a regular FDM printer for simple shapes require less time to make smooth.
We have also made hybrid pattern pieces by fitting a resin printed outer shell over an FDM support structure.
The advantage of the FDM support structure vs filling the resin printed parts with a castable epoxy resin is that when I assemble the patterns to a match plate board I am able to still flex the printed part a little bit to correct the warping with clamping pressure as they are glued down to the plate.
For the simple parts, why not just make them out of wood? It would be even faster. Its been the material of choice for pattern makers for thousands of years. The whole advantage of 3d printing patterns is the ease of making complex patterns...
"The Smoothest Filament: 3D Printing without layer lines!" title seems misleading. The filament didn't start or print any smoother than others. It's post processing.
I use either a soldering iron or my plastic stapler to heatset a pin for hanging, then an airbrush. You can selectively smooth areas, and with the blowing air you can rapidly dry. No drips / runs / smudges, full control... love the fear or fire though, as someone who's worked in explosive / poison gas environments, and juggles fire for a hobby, it's a nice reminder that I'm insane lol
Thanks for posting this. I will use this idea for painting prints.
I think my dreams of printing a PVB shot glass to drink whiskey from are effectively ruined! 😂
I did wonder what would happen if you drink plastohol, but not enough to try it
I mean, you could, but it would be one use only... for more than one reason 😂😂
@@jucanavazreque3429 A disposable RUclipsr... what a fate! ;)
@@LostInTech3D If you're going to try that, at least use something non-toxic; like PLA.
Still wouldn't recommend it, though.
Just means you have to drink it quickly.
A means to circulate the vapor in the chamber seems like a good way to speed up the process.
Yes! The danger there is any spark could ignite it, but people do that.
@@LostInTech3D It would/could be a true explosion. I do not like those vapor volumes at all.
I think a peristaltic pump could minimize the risk just not sure how much flow is realistically needed.
A brushless fan doesn't produce sparks. You could also use a motor outside of the container with the shaft going into it with a plastic fan attached to it. There are lots of possibilities to avoid danger. Not doing somthing at all for safety sounds like a poor excuse to me when there are actually plenty of safe ways to do that.
@@LostInTech3D Polymaker already makes one called Polysher.
You can use the stickiness of PVB when in contact with IPA to your advantage: it makes for great chemical bonding of PVB parts.
I bonded two PVB parts to one another by applying IPA to each of the faces I wanted to merge and then keeping them in contact with one another for a while. Result was a very strong bond, though unbreakable without destroying the prints.
My PVB also used to string a lot, I found that printing it at lower temperatures (I think about 190-200) helped with it. Keeping it dry also definitely helps.
Respect earned for using safety data sheets
thank you for your science and hard work, you just saved me 2 months of wasted time, you are my hero!
Thanks. I ❤FDM layers!
I keep some fully dissolved PVB in a jar just in case. You can put a drop on the print bed during print to glue down the print if it starts to curl. Just know, removing that drop from the bed will be fun at the end.
That's a good idea!
I question your definition of fun. 😂😂
PCB Way advert.
Love stripboard. That tool looks like a drill, for drilling out holes to break the track of stripboard.
And I'm probably one of the few that has actually made my own PCBs. I used to work at a college, and basically had my own dark room with all the equipment required to make PCBs, including a spray etch tank.
That Jack Daniel's roast was golden! 🤣Learned something new: Ethanol > JD
I actually like the look of layer lines. It just makes it look more like 3D prints and shows how it was made.
Polymaker does have a machine to do this with - it's something like 150-200 bucks maybe? It mounts the model on little spikes and rotates it while circulating the vapor. Only takes 15-30 minutes depending on your model, then it evacuates the chamber and lifts the model out. When I printed in PVB regularly, it was a nice thing to do, as long as your model doesn't need to be perfect on its bottom.
The first PVB filament I'm aware of was Polymaker's PolySmooth. The original 2016 Kickstarter had a machine called the PolySher that uses an ultrasonic nebulizer to create a fine mist of IPA, and a turntable to spin the part. You could say it's similar to spraying, but the fine mist floats and so is more controllable than spraying (which can easily lead to runs). It worked pretty well and was quite fast, although with the layer lines on my printer of the day, it needed quite a lot of smoothing that would obliterate fine details on a print. The parts also remained sticky for several days, so it was important not to touch them, otherwise you'd leave finger prints on the parts.
Some people made some pretty incredible glass-like clear parts with it. With the tips from CNC Kitchen's video on printing clear parts (going slow, and with a flow rate that would normally be considered over-extruding) you might want to try this.
Great video!
This came out at the perfect time since I need to make a super smooth ball for my next project and I had some Polysmooth laying around. Thanks!
If you need something with ridiculous roundness etc. buy a pool ball. They are made to a ridiculous standards but are only one size.
@@ares395 This needs to have a specific size + magnet inside, so still needs to be 3D printed
The tool was used for wirewrapping circuits. Years ago I actually built a 8048 cpntroller with all its peripherals with wirewrapping. Tedious but practical when you want to make a proof of concept
tbh i still kind of like layer lines, they are a kind of way to acknowledge the method used to make an item. Truly for additive manufacturing its kind of the main hallmark of it other than impossible shapes and structures.
Sounds like a good filament for lost plastic casting. Smooth for smooth cast finish, and relatively easy to melt out of the mold I assume
You make Anarchy sound bad.
🤘🏼❤️🖤
Very familiar with a wire wrap tool, although I'm not certain where mine are currently hiding! Great and informative video as always, thank you!
i love reading the material safety datasheet for all of my liquids and aerosols!
it makes me feel like god
I bought a roll of Prusament PETG and it was super stringy until I dried it (the vacuum seal was still intact). Other spools of Prusament had no issues. My sample size is pretty small though. Only about 5 spools of Prusament in total. Maybe it was really humid that day in Prague. This taught me to always pre-dry before printing. Glad you didn't have any issues with Prusament though. Good quality stuff in general. Love your content. Keep it up.
I have that same tool :)
Now few times used pcbway or itead. For prototyping those fr4 protoboards with lots of soldered wires under. That's why I bought my 3d printer to print case for those projects.
Just so you know, ethanol at 99% is sold in parts of the US as Everclear. They sometimes have to adjust the proof from state to state, but back in 1993 when I was in the Air Force and living in Oklahoma, the Everclear was 199.5 proof or 99%. Yes, I did shots of it, and no I would not recommend.
I think all of these could be improved with upgraded gear. A softer, more specific brush would probably make brushing easier, and I think the spray method could be improved GREATLY by getting a dedicated mist/spray bottle. For medical use it doesn't matter how the spray is, but for smoothing, a spray that comes out like a fun mist would lead to the least amount of drops and most consistent smoothing
A spray gun like used for finish application would be best to get an even coat. You wouldn't even have to clean it afterward since the stuff you're spraying is used for cleaning :) Also, try to get the object mounted on a stick so you can quickly turn it around and get all sides without touching it.
A cheap airbrush setup might work too, you can buy them with a little air pump for not much and you can controll the spray of them.
Also, for both those methods, sticking the print to a stick or something before doing the spraying or painting would really help with the fingerprints/smudge marks issue (and the mess issue).
PolyMaker PolyTerra, printed (based on a temp tower) at 185C (215 first layer) has nearly invisible layer lines, because it's matte. It looks gorgeous, and it's mostly what I use now. I've printed many things that look injection molded.
As a fun fact: You should use Vodka instead of Whisky. Vodka usually contains fewer additives and sugars compared to whisky, which makes it a better option for cleaning. Additives and sugars in whisky can leave residues on surfaces, making vodka a cleaner choice. (Also, the lower cost of cheap vodka compared to cheap whisky makes it a more economical choice for cleaning purposes. So, if you need an affordable and effective cleaning solution, vodka can be a great option)
It’s a mystery why PVB hasn’t caught on…..
I used to make my own PCBs. Started in the mid 70s using a resist pen. Then transfers & tape, then X-Y plotted masks on film and last DIY boards were made using laser printed film resist masks. Can’t see many folk today making the effort.
layer lines are beautiful
In America you can buy 99% ethanol. It’s called Everclear.
I tried a bit of pvb from yousu and it worked great. I found my best method for smoothing to be streching out metal window screen material over a frame and misting with a hair dressers spray bottle. It puts out a fine mist and as long as you hold the trigger it continues to mist. I did 3 or 4 total misting sprays and allowed it to try between coats and then dry for a day when finished. I used 99% alcohol. I did two nice large black swans for decoration.
Does the screen pattern show where the print sits on it?
@@TheFredmac yes it does. The problem I had was if it was on anything else the alcohol would pool and soften the bottom layer and give it a worse elephant's foot then just regular printing could. The screen allows the alcohol to fall and drip off which I found to be the best thing. You potentially could thicken up the bottom layer and then after you're done with everything sand it with a high grit sandpaper and smooth it remove the pattern from the screen
@@nathanreed3302 farther down in the comments someone said they use a soldering iron to put a staple in the print. Then they can hang the print from the staple. Someone else said they use parchment baking paper to keep the print from sticking.
Most of what I need smoothed I can live with a screen pattern on a section of the print. This is all good information thanks for replying.
I used smoothed PVB (dipping method) when making forms for silicone molds.
Concerning Ethanol, at least here in Germany we have "Brennspiritus" with >= 94% Ethanol. Some other molecules are added to make it unfit for consumption and therefore exempt from the high alcohol tax. Rather cheap to get.
That was really funny, even by your standards :)
Nice to see Gordon again!
Another application would be buttons, like clothes buttons, and possibly moulds of any kind would benefit from getting this fine grain texture instead of layer lines.
The marmalade vase is my fave :)
I've printed a large pvb model with polymaker pvb.
I smoothed it with 90% IPA spray coats with a spray bottle.
I used a 0.6 as the model was huge, however the layer lines were 0.3 I believe.
This took probably 30 coats to effectively smooth it.
A very large pain in the ass
The transparent prusa probably makes nice custom transparent cases for electronic devices, like creating see trough joycons.
Thanks for doing this testing. It is a great option for printing things you don't want to paint or sand. I have been using a .12 layer height and Elegoo Rapid PLA+ with my Qidi XMax3 and I must say the layer lines are very hard to see. For most applications it is good enough. If it's something you wanting to paint, a quick sand of 220 and some filler primer and Bob is your uncle. The great thing about this new generation of printers is it is feasible to use these tiny layer lines and not have your print take 3 days. I have tried a ton of PLA brands and the Elegoo Rapid is the best and it is cheap, only $16.99. It prints better than Qidi's Rapido filament which I find quite ironic, since I use the Rapido filament profile with the Elegoo.
wow bed glue now comes in 300m long rods
BTW, it is possible to buy denatured alcohol, which is anhydrous ethanol with additives that make it poisonous, bad-tasting, foul-smelling, and/or nauseating.
I can buy food grade 100% I think used for extracting some parfumes?
Right so I never comment on videos but okay. Clicked on this video because I was bored, didn’t need to know the info but yeah, still after watching I didn’t need to know it but I guess it’s nice to know. All I can say is, I was laughing so hard omg, this was so funny, did anyone else find this guy super funny, I’m not sure if it was on purpose but I really liked it idk
The tool you showed was to separate the tracks on strip board, got a couple 25 years old. LOL
Great video showing all kinds of smoothing methods! I'm a fan of the spray bottle on a mesh rack. Just need to be careful not to get dust or hair on it since it will become a permanent part of the print...
I use Mason jars to store my isopropyl alcohol for resin printing--the rubber seal on the lid works like a champ to keep the alcohol from evaporating (or absorbing water.) Not sure what they're called on your side of the pond, but basically, the square-ish jars like spaghetti sauce comes in, used in home canning.
PVB is used to bond glass layers to make laminated safety glass.
You can totally buy quite pure ethanol in some pharmacies, but it's denatured alcohol, which is 96% ethanol with a bit of some nasty stuff to make it undrinkable. You can also buy non-denatured alcohol which is also 96% but without additional stuff and that one is usually more expensive because taxes, but it's a bit more difficult to find. I don't know in Europe, but here you can. You can't find 99% ethanol in stores not because it's prohibited, but because ethanol mixes with water and it's very difficult to get it over 96% unless you take the water with molecular sieves or some sort of dessicant and only bought as a chemical reagent, which makes it even more expensive and it will also get to 96% rapidly because of the water in the atmosphere. Anyway, I started to use ethanol instead of isopopyl because i don't like the smell, specially with resin printing
Yeah I would definitely go with that if I did it again 😂
@@LostInTech3D
There's always moonshine as a less legal option. Here in Norway it's colloquially called 9-6 due to the 96% practical limit for destillation.
_"moderately non-dangerous chemicals"_ 👍😬
Wire wrapping tool. Used it a few times in Ham Radio wiring.
Actually, no. It's a stripboard cutter. Similar, though.
Doesn't Polymaker make Polysher for diffusing mist?
Cool mist humidifier for your alcohol vapors, in a cylindrical container with 3 slow moving fans across from each other on a 45 degree angle for even application and a power bar that has a timer for consistent results.
There's also SBS aka Watson, that can be smoothed with lemonen aka sticker remover
Interesting , it would be quite easy to convert your cloche into a forced air vapour chamber, simply get hold of a small fan unit around 2 cm put that in the bottom along with the battery and switch or wire it into a old USB cable, assuming it's 5 V fan, drill some holes in the base of the cloche then seal the base with a piece of plastic or print something to cover it so it doesnt pull air in from outside. Hey presto one forced air smoothing chamber. It will speedup the smoothing time ten fold for sure.
I am interested as always but gotta say I love layer lines. If you can't defeat'em... I try to design objects where a 0.33mm thick line is good enough for surface details and take care of equalizing the flow preview to have it all smooth and...minecraft-ish but with a coherent surface.
All a different matter when printing functional parts or highly detailed shapes, ofc.
Have you tried paint thinner (Denatured Alcohol) for much more pure ethanol? All it usually has added to it is bitterant so that people don't drink it and so that they can bypass the alcohol laws.
You can also get IPA as an aerosol. Might be worth a try.
with IPA the more surface aria you give it the quicker it will evaporate so if you want to get rid of it quicker get large shallow pans to pore it in to evaporate away
also if your painting the part the best way to get rid of layer lines is to use a good base coat that is made to fill imperfections
PVB is good for mold making as it burns pretty clean
I got Eono PVB from Amazon.
You have to dry the reels, preferably not with heat alone, better to store it in a box of silica for a week or at least some days.
You have to keep it absolutely dry, probably also while printing, this stuff will dry your room.. but at what cost :D
I smoothed using a spray-bottle and found issues.. my printer nozzle didnt print very even, so where small pockets formed at the surface (might have been still too wet) i got cavities and bubbles. Also, you probably also dont want too much to seep into the inside of an enclosed part as smoothing too fast will then put too much alcohol inside it, ruining it afterwards.
Also best to hold the part in a way where the droplets can quickly drop off or dont bother too much.. maybe a quick high speed fan burst could help to get it off.. vapor smoothing probably avoids this.
Here in Poland you can buy 95% ethanol at liquor stores and 99,9% at specialist shops or online.
Does the material stink either during printing or during IPA treatment? The reason I ask is that acetal bond is hydrolytically unstable and it could release butyraldheyde which is pretty nasty.
PLA is soluble in both ethyl acetate and chloroform. But chloroform is hard to come by and dangerous. The surface becomes soft as a result of the treatment, but hardens again after the solvent evaporates. We can also make waterproof objects by brushing with a solvent. I made a water cooling block for an RX570 video card. I still use this now.
Try a ultrasonic mist maker for that vapor chamber, i think this could accelerate the process or at least result in a more uniform cloud.
Been thinkingk of that. Not sure how well the parts of my ultrasonic mist units do in chemicals
For me mostl acetone because abs
Polymaker makes this.
Hmmm...wonder if they will create a clear PVB so you can print fine and create a transparent smoothed lens..edit: Never mind, I see Prusament in natural transparent, which appears it could somewhat do this.
Not to disrespect any sponsors or anything, but one of the brand names for this is also Polysmooth
There's no sponsors being offended, I showed polymaker at the beginning 😁
I have matt fillament that doesn't show layer lines. Glossy means more visible layer lines, which also shows imperfection more. If you are American then just throw the isopropyl in your huge v12 engine fuel tank.
I've been navigating through this digital wasteland trying to find your legendary 3D printing sagas. The algorithm’s about as useful as a chocolate fireguard. Honestly, I reckon it’s got less direction than a blindfolded homing pigeon in a hurricane. Your brilliance in turning plastic into pure comedy gold is the only thing worth my suffering here. It's like the system's been coded by a troop of tea-abstaining, humorless robots who wouldn’t know a good joke if it was printed in 3D and smacked them in the sensors.
Your comments are the rare gems amidst the endless 'Recommended Videos' that are about as appealing as a soggy biscuit. I swear, trying to find your content in the chaos is like trying to print a masterpiece with a spool of tangled filament. But mate, your humor? That's the real high-quality PVB in a world of dodgy knock-offs.
So keep those comments and videos coming. I'm here, navigating through RUclips's equivalent of the Bermuda Triangle, dodging digital detritus like it's my day job. Let's give this algorithm a run for its money, showing it that not all heroes wear capes - some wield 3D printers and a wicked sense of humor. Cheers to conquering the digital abyss, one layer at a time or knot!
Here in the US you can purchase 99% ethanol at most liquor stores, in most states.
this may sound silly but what if someone took a rotating stand (like a record player) and a heat lamp or ceramic electric heater and rotated a 3d printed item for X amount of time? would this work? then after it is heated cool it off or wait till it turns room temperature.
I haven't seen a wirewrap tool in decades!!! LOL!
aight! gonna smooth my filament in jagermeister I'll be right back
Don't drink it after 😂
Im totally new to 3d printing, i bought a Ender 3 v3 ke, because its entry level and supports 5 or 6 different filaments and i can print from my phone, laptops/ROG Ally or usb stick. I was going to go with an Ender that can print nearly 12 inches but it only supported usb flash drives. The v3 ke had a lot of features for a really great price. If i like 3d printing i can then get a better printer later on.. now i just need something cool to print lol
Store the IPA in a jam jar! I keep one for soaking bearings etc in for cleaning, been sat here months untouched and no evaporation.
Plus clean up the prints before you do anything else with them, pull off the worst of the strings and waft a pre heated heat gun over it to remove whats left.
Denatured alcohol that is typically found in the painting section at most home improvement stores is high concentration ethanol. Denatured means they are something to make it so you cant drink it, bitterents, methanol, ect.
Not quite. The one you find in the painting section is usually mixed with quite a lot of methanol, which tastes the same as ethanol but is *highly* toxic.
"Denaturated" simply means there's _something else_ in it besides the "main" alcohol and water.
The one you buy at the _chemist's_ (pharmacy) is usually 70% or 96% ethanol, with the rest being water, and 0.1% of a safe denaturant (like denatonium) to make it taste bad so people don't use it as a cheap alternative to vodka.
If it specifically says "denaturated *ethanol"* it's probably safe (just ethanol, water, and something bitter). If it says "denaturated *alcohol"* there might be other alcohols in it (like methanol). Still mostly safe to _handle,_ but definitely, definitely don't even _taste_ it.
To cleanse the nozzle, did you fill alcohol into the nozzle?)
You can buy 95% alkohol in Poland with ease. It's sold in almost every grocery or liquor shop. It's callad "Spirytus rektyfikowany". Nobody really drinks it. It is mainly used for homemade flavored "vodkas".
You can buy high concentration ethanol. It's called Everclear
- Lines is the reason i haven't bought a PLA 3D-printer yet...
- Brittleness is the reason i haven't bought a Resin Printer yet...
What about placing the cotton swab above the piece
> ethanol at 99%
Polish alcohol: Spirytus is 95-98% Ethanol and you can readily buy it in a convenience store here: :3
Regarding getting vapor to condense on the part:
Use a glass beaker without spout, with a lid. Load the part from the top, so the heavier vapor does not leak out during loading. warm the beaker with a reptile patch heater or something similar, to slightly above room temp (safety, y'all) say 45C. Put your part in the freezer and the alcohol sponge in the beaker for 30 minutes or so. Areas of the part that collect pools of cold air should be inverted. Uncover the beaker, lower the part onto the stand, cover the beaker, remove when finished.
osha would be proud of you talking about the msds.
*HSE
@@LostInTech3D US Americans
😛
"we would all be drinking it and not pay taxes on it"
Damn, here in Belgium you can just get 99% alcohol in a store, and it is already taxed...
Pouring iso down the drain is perfectly fine, as long as it's diluted with water
Does printing in PVB release toxic fumes?
Inevitably yes, but I get the impression it's nominally no worse than pla or pva
Printing in *anything* releases both toxic fumes and microplastics. Most people just don't notice with PLA, but who knows what the effect will be in twenty years? Personally, I stay the hell away from my printer when it's running no matter what plastic is in it.
The way you dispose of isopropyl alcohol... Go outside and toss it anywhere. It'll evap quickly. Nah, but for real. I appreciate all your safety concerns. It's just funny as a car guy who has been like elbow deep in open gas tanks to be super worried about a small glass of iso. Always better safe than sorry though. Fun video!
Not here 🤣🤣 especially in winter
@@LostInTech3D Hahaha oh I get that. I was out snow blowing for about an hour today. I'm just south of the Canadian border in Vermont. That said, all it will do is melt some snow faster. Think of it this way, most windshield washer fluid is methanol or in some cases ethyl alcohol, and they just spray that crap everywhere! Hahaha. I still understand encouraging safety though.
Dont smoke while doing so
Take a look at SBS filament. Its got strength, impact resistance, and it dissolves in d-limolene, and prints like PLA (like PVB, too).
For the time, hassle and mess, I think I'll resin print parts if the layer lines are problematic. Maybe PVB would be good on a large format FDM printer to print lampshades and similar items.
First time I've head of PVB.
This is something.
(tho I've heard of this vapor smoothing thing or something similar... so I may have just not been paying attention before)
What about placing a fan inside the vapor chamber to even out the atmosphere surrounding the print?
You can yes, subject to making sure it doesnt cause sparks
Why am I using perf board? Because I can do THAT overnight for one part. I usually only need one part.... But if I needed a half dozen pcbway is the way id go.
abs and acetone all the way. I dont think a pair of gloves and some ventilation is that much of a hassle and... it really produces beautiful results