You are welcome. I’m not most guys. This industry is lacking the people to perform the work. Hopefully the channel helps bring back some interest to the younger guys.
Thanks so much to people like this. It’s like doing an apprenticeship in a few weeks when you watch these well instructed videos. Years and decades of learning shared to make people doing this for the first time so much easier.
I have been doin body and paint for 60 years and I really love your channel. Full of great tips and tricks to get awesome results. I stopped the video to try to find the low you are working on, and damned if I could find it. Then a eureka moment hit that a line board light (PDR) would be the absolute best tool to use to check with in concert with your like 90 spray. I`m gonna try it and I will let you know.
Great video neat trick with the quick check never thought of that always used grease and wax or straight water I'm a painter but want to learn more about bodywork
@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS definitely be watching more of your videos,keep up the great work and great advice who wants to learn paint and body the correct way
Hey I wanted to thank you for taking the time to make these video's I have learned a lot from them I have the linear blocks and I also got some next level blocks I can tell a big difference when I use the next level blocks keep up the good work and the video's
Great content and concise. I’m surprised to hear you say that you go from 220 to 600. Your older videos took us through many stages of grit. Is this a new change for you?
If all of your bodywork was done with the car bolted together for panel to panel do you sometimes worry about false ripples showing when using Like 90 on the unbolted fenders? The fenders can get twisted or distorted a bit when sitting on the sawhorses vs being bolted on with all the shims in place. Maybe not as much with a 50s Chevy but old curvy hot rod fenders seem to twist a lot.
I think this is a great topic for a future video. I think a lot of people are not looking at these details. The fact that you ask this question says a lot about your work, but to answer it. No majority of call it false ripples is from having metal work that is not relaxed. If it was sandblasted, you will get this a lot. And you will see this more so on low crown panels but as far as when you get them taken apart, we take a lot of caution to make sure we do not set the exterior of Body Panels face down onto stands. We are actually in the process of implementing a small rotisserie built off of an engine stand to hold our doors so they never touch a surface that could cause a push dent. I love questions like this, so thank you for that. If you have any more questions, feel free to email me or if you want to learn more in person check out sylvesterscustoms.com.
Great job as usual all ways great information ,On another note do you always have to remove the ecoat before applying epoxy primer ,I replaced my trunk and upper deck ,and removing that coating to bare metal looks like its going to be a job ,Thanks for all your help
It actually does not take that long with 80 grit on an orbital sander. It’s a very thin coating and we do remove it because I have seen rust below E coat in manufacturing.
As I've said in my earlier comments great job , but I forgot to ask one more question what brand of sealer do you recommend after body filler and primer before paint and can you supply the numbers please ,thanks as i said great video's
No we use small custom acrylic blocks made by Jason Killmer. Because all you are doing in the 600 grit stage is refining scratches it does not require a long block.
Nextlevel blocks if you looked them up online and get the phone number and call them tell them you saw the blocks on my channel they give you a little discount it’s just a husband and wife Shop that hand make them in Canada. Jason is a great guy.
what about the not sanded part on the left how to make sure the primer thickness is even and straight? did you have to block that other side eventually?
Excellent lesson. I"ve used like 90 and it works extremely well and a can of it goes a long way, well worth the money. But I have a quick question if i may.... how long do you let 2k high build primer sit and start sanding to avoid shrinking issues. Whats your process? just tring to pick your brain to see if i can add to mine. Thanks in advance, Mike.
It depends on what primer you are using although there are demonstrations out there they show how to do a shrink test by weighing the panel each day until it quits losing weight. That’s a great test but I have seen primer. Continue to shrink a urethane is going to shrink a lot more than most. I personally use VP 2050, because after a week or two it’s pretty much done they say four days but I have had cars sit for a long period of time and I like to go back over them and block them out with 150 grit. Honestly, I think the longer you can let them sit the better but outside of two weeks I don’t know that majority of people are going to be able to tell the difference. I think the most important is letting the clear sit as long as you can.
Your not in San Diego county are you? Im on my second body guy as the first one told me 2 months and 10 months llater i drove the car home and am out 2k deposit, second guy just starting but would love to talk to you and see if you can take my Ghia in.
"Notice I don't put my hands over the affected area" Forgot to say. I want to,,, but I can't ! Hahaha That would sand out sooooo fast if he did. Hard to have that self control...... After you've blocked a panel and reprimed 12 times. You learn very quick. Lol
Most guys at your level would never give up there secrets. Thank you!!
You are welcome. I’m not most guys. This industry is lacking the people to perform the work. Hopefully the channel helps bring back some interest to the younger guys.
One of the most thorough explanations of the body work process on RUclips...Cheers!
Thank you very much
High quality great teaching.
Glad you think so! Thank you
Great video Travis!! Its a delicate balancing act to get the right foundation and your explanation is spot on. Cheers 🍻
Thank you!!🙌🏻
Nice tip with 1/2" thick block, pencil only and guide coat. That panel spray is sweet.
Great to see you again!
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks so much to people like this. It’s like doing an apprenticeship in a few weeks when you watch these well instructed videos. Years and decades of learning shared to make people doing this for the first time so much easier.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank You for taking the time to do another great teaching video.
Glad it was helpful!
Outstanding teacher! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us and the proper way to do quality work! 🔥
My pleasure!
I have been doin body and paint for 60 years and I really love your channel. Full of great tips and tricks to get awesome results. I stopped the video to try to find the low you are working on, and damned if I could find it. Then a eureka moment hit that a line board light (PDR) would be the absolute best tool to use to check with in concert with your like 90 spray.
I`m gonna try it and I will let you know.
That is a great idea! Thank you for watching!!
Great show. I always pick up tips every time I see your show.
I appreciate that!
Your videos are so informative. Still newish body worker for my Camaro projects but always learning. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
man i have been wet checking with just grease and wax remover this hole time..... love finding new products!
You’ll love this
I use this stuff and it’s mint. Acrylic block, panel check, done
Thank you
Great video neat trick with the quick check never thought of that always used grease and wax or straight water
I'm a painter but want to learn more about bodywork
Thank you hope it finds you well
@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS definitely be watching more of your videos,keep up the great work and great advice who wants to learn paint and body the correct way
Hey I wanted to thank you for taking the time to make these video's I have learned a lot from them I have the linear blocks and I also got some next level blocks I can tell a big difference when I use the next level blocks keep up the good work and the video's
Great to hear! Thx for watching!
Great content and concise. I’m surprised to hear you say that you go from 220 to 600. Your older videos took us through many stages of grit. Is this a new change for you?
Thank you! No change. I start with 80 grit then go to 150/220/600 but you prime then repeat 150 etc
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS wow, so after each re-prime you start with 150 again even if you didn’t spread filler?
@@ajd5363 that is correct. 👍🏻
Love these
Thank you!
If all of your bodywork was done with the car bolted together for panel to panel do you sometimes worry about false ripples showing when using Like 90 on the unbolted fenders? The fenders can get twisted or distorted a bit when sitting on the sawhorses vs being bolted on with all the shims in place. Maybe not as much with a 50s Chevy but old curvy hot rod fenders seem to twist a lot.
I think this is a great topic for a future video. I think a lot of people are not looking at these details. The fact that you ask this question says a lot about your work, but to answer it. No majority of call it false ripples is from having metal work that is not relaxed. If it was sandblasted, you will get this a lot. And you will see this more so on low crown panels but as far as when you get them taken apart, we take a lot of caution to make sure we do not set the exterior of Body Panels face down onto stands. We are actually in the process of implementing a small rotisserie built off of an engine stand to hold our doors so they never touch a surface that could cause a push dent. I love questions like this, so thank you for that. If you have any more questions, feel free to email me or if you want to learn more in person check out sylvesterscustoms.com.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS 👍
great video , thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
Great job as usual all ways great information ,On another note do you always have to remove the ecoat before applying epoxy primer ,I replaced my trunk and upper deck ,and removing that coating to bare metal looks like its going to be a job ,Thanks for all your help
It actually does not take that long with 80 grit on an orbital sander. It’s a very thin coating and we do remove it because I have seen rust below E coat in manufacturing.
Awesome video as usual! 👌😎
Thanks for the visit
Would you prefer to use high build primer.Thanks for the great info
We use VP 2050
As I've said in my earlier comments great job , but I forgot to ask one more question what brand of sealer do you recommend after body filler and primer before paint and can you supply the numbers please ,thanks as i said great video's
I emailed you back
Great explanation! Which product do you use? Panel Check, or Quick Check? You mentioned Panel Check, but the picture shows Quick Check.
It was an accident in the thumbnail pic. We use panel check to verify straightness. We use quick check if we are matching colors.
Thank you
You're welcome
Great video. Question: When you wet sand your 600 grit are you using a long board or what type of board are you using? Thanks!
No we use small custom acrylic blocks made by Jason Killmer. Because all you are doing in the 600 grit stage is refining scratches it does not require a long block.
Nevermind, just read yur bio.
Great craftsmanship brother!
Thank you
Awesome video!!
What block are you using in the video?
Nextlevel blocks if you looked them up online and get the phone number and call them tell them you saw the blocks on my channel they give you a little discount it’s just a husband and wife Shop that hand make them in Canada. Jason is a great guy.
what about the not sanded part on the left how to make sure the primer thickness is even and straight? did you have to block that other side eventually?
No, I did not. You are basically blending your bodywork. The goal is that everything is being taken down that is level.
Excellent lesson. I"ve used like 90 and it works extremely well and a can of it goes a long way, well worth the money. But I have a quick question if i may.... how long do you let 2k high build primer sit and start sanding to avoid shrinking issues. Whats your process? just tring to pick your brain to see if i can add to mine. Thanks in advance, Mike.
It depends on what primer you are using although there are demonstrations out there they show how to do a shrink test by weighing the panel each day until it quits losing weight. That’s a great test but I have seen primer. Continue to shrink a urethane is going to shrink a lot more than most. I personally use VP 2050, because after a week or two it’s pretty much done they say four days but I have had cars sit for a long period of time and I like to go back over them and block them out with 150 grit. Honestly, I think the longer you can let them sit the better but outside of two weeks I don’t know that majority of people are going to be able to tell the difference. I think the most important is letting the clear sit as long as you can.
Your not in San Diego county are you? Im on my second body guy as the first one told me 2 months and 10 months llater i drove the car home and am out 2k deposit, second guy just starting but would love to talk to you and see if you can take my Ghia in.
I’m an 1.5 hr away from SD. But we’re a 2-3 yr wait to get in.
What's the better grit paper to use when doing your first blocking
First blocking over? Body filler? 80 grit if you are doing the first blocking over primer I use 150 grit.
Thanks
That coal dust gets on everything, and that was a flat panel.
Where are you located?
Southern California
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS 👍
Thanks I have never heard of like90. Will have to try it out
✌️👍
"Notice I don't put my hands over the affected area"
Forgot to say. I want to,,, but I can't ! Hahaha
That would sand out sooooo fast if he did. Hard to have that self control...... After you've blocked a panel and reprimed 12 times. You learn very quick. Lol
🤣🤣🤣🤣