That’s 1 of the best explanations I have heard about the difference between dry spray and fine/thin paint coverage. Would love to see more along this train of painting explained, and covered. Too many bad explanations out there.
You're very correct there, there is no need for people to record things swearing and carrying on. It definitely makes the viewing and learning much easier and more pleasant, that's an excellent point you raised.
I'm so proud of my two sons one is 31(owns his own auto repair shop) and the other is 26(works at a local high end restoration/custom shop). They both have knowledge and proficiency in the classic car industry. 🙂. Ty for your continued support and educational videos!
As a painter for the last 21 years in collision and restoration you do a great job with your videos. Just wanted to mention that air pressure to the inlet is less important to the air pressure to the cap which you can buy cap testers for most guns. And yes the differences between clearcoats can be pretty drastic. Ive been using an lph 400 for the past 10-15 years or so, the weird thing i do is use an orange air cap typically used for base. I typically like low air pressure and slower arm movement. With the somewhat more recent introductions of stackable clears its given us more options. Its a difficult but great time to be a painter. Keep up the great content!
Low pressure, and Slow-even passes is not easy to do brother! Much respect to you for being good enough to do that! I’ve tried that, and I struggle with it. I remember when things changed many years ago and I went from using my (Sata 90-which I loved and was proficient with) at 45-50psi to HVLP(Devilbiss finishline) at 23psi moving slow…I messed so many things up I was ready to throw in the towel! I eventually modified my technique to somewhere in between speed wise; the tack coat became much more important to me, and I had to really focus on the thickness of my mixture -whereas back in the higher pressure days I overlooked those details to a fault. The only thing that I don’t miss about running the high pressure gun-was the London fog of atomized paint all around me 😂! More might’ve went into the air than on the panels.
@G-2-Eleven I was more referring to the differences between spray guns my sata 5500 takes significantly more air pressure at the inlet than say my lph400 to get 10 at the cap which is why I recommended cap testers for all set ups. I tend to regulate my pressure from a wall mounted regulator and have pressures for different guns marked on the regulator to coincide with the cap pressures I'm looking for and make fine adjustments in regards to temperature and relative humidity, paint viscosity etc.
Mr. Sylvester, I enjoyed this video not only for the insightful tips, info but also because of your ability to explain topics in a clear, concise and straight forward manner. You explain complex details very precisely yet keep the explanations simple enough for the novice to understand. Outstanding job!
Always appreciate your videos. Hitting us with the facts with the numbers to back it up. No hidden details, no ego, just clean learning experience we can all benefit from as we get a handle on things and expand our knowledge. You guys are the best! 🔥
Thank you Travis for this great content!! I love watching your videos! You make things simple and easy to understand. I also respect the fact that you don't use profanity. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills with the world. Your work is astounding and your passion to achieve the best results possible is second to none. Please keep the videos coming. God bless you.
Curious to see how much was shaved off from the more cost efficient clear. Same passes, fresh paper as close as possible. In my opinion It’s likely more is shaved off due to its lower solids content & will also likely not tolerate heat from a machine as well as the higher solid content clear, which would make it more vulnerable during the machine buffing process and then cause even more material loss. Sounds like just using high quality clear and plenty of coats is the way to go. Awesome videos! Really appreciate this content 👍🏼
Great informative video, you explain things so well it makes it easier to understand and learn from. You mentioned about the flow coating an i never realised if you do happen to cut through to the first coats of clear that there'd be a halos you can see
Would be interesting to see a solid % comparison between the 2 clear coats.. also the difference of holdout between the 2.. would be a good test to mix up the same amount of each clear in different cups and let them sit.. weigh on a weekly basis and see which one has more tail solvents in the formulation and shrink more.. love the videos keep it up.
Hey Travis just curious on your choice of guns for clear? Why the Ls400 and not Ws400 evo..? Preference or what? Love your videos and keep up the great information!
I’m not sure where you are referring the UV protection as thinning anything out? If you put a certain amount of coats on you just need to know how many mills you have the UV protection has nothing to do with how much mills you have.
So if you spray 4 coats of clear with a 1.4 tip and got just over 2mm of thickness of clear , would you increase that to 5 coats using a 1.3 tip to assure you have enough thickness or are you still confident you have enough there to work with? Thanks , Chris.
I would not switch figure out what works for you and I would run the 1.3 or a 1.4 through the duration of the Paint job I will not change. This video is intended to just give you an idea of how to test the products that you use
Great video Travis! Just for clarification. Lets say you've painted the panel and finished it with 3 coats of clear. Then its left for a week, cut back and two more coats are applied (flow coats). Applied after 600 grit prep. Then its left for a while before cutting and buffing. So as I understand cutting this would be equivalent to cutting two coats. Because if those later two coats are cut through to the original 3 there will be a halo effect. Because that was essentially a mechanical bond and not chemical? So my question is if on the first application of clear you'd be much better off building that clear to 5 coats all on the same day so you'd be getting the chemical bond? That way, as I see it even if you have some dust specks or other imperfections etc there would be plenty of build to safely cut back? Thanks again for the videos. Cheers John.
Even though the paint is fresh, it still acts as two different paint jobs when you flow coat. Now, you could get away with that if it wasn't sanded in between but you are risking an adhesion problem. Not sure too many people anymore are flow coating when using a high solids clear. I usually do consecutive 4-5 coats then cut and buff. Get the same look while eliminating a step.
You are correct you want to do four or five coats all at the same time. If you do one coat find out what your flash time is and then do a second coat. A good rule of thumb is doubling your flash time with every coat so second coat would be 20 minutes third coat would be 40 minutes fifth coat would be 80 minutes.
Really interesting stuff right there! Sadly a lot of cars that get painted and sent out have very little clear left on them. The restorations i do require me asking the owner an initial question of…will this car be garage kept or will it live outside? If the answer is living outside-my response is I’m sorry I won’t be able to do this job for you 🤷🏻♂️. That gets their attention, some choose to do whatever is necessary to change their situation to make their answer a yes others won’t-and I say I’m sorry guys…I only have so many of these cars in me, it’s a ton of work and exposing it to the elements-( in my opinion) is the worst thing you can do for your car and makes me feel like the car isn’t a priority. My strong stance on that allows me to feel good about the condition of that category lol. Now, like most shops I have to pay the bills, and the bills get paid with dinked fenders, and insurance turnarounds. I have no illusions with these cars…they may live outside forever and I absolutely want these cars to hold up as well as possible regardless. I really try to monitor how well the clear is laying down for me with these, and if I’m getting textiles then I will put as much as 5coats of clear -knowing that wrt sanding will remove 1-2 coats, and buffing (with a wool pad especially) will probably remove another coat. This leaves 2 good coats of clear for protection that I send them home with wishing them my best 😅. By the way that’s 4:1 clear. When clear is laying down very good-I do 3 wet coats-(initial tack coat not counted), nib any trash, then run wet abralon 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000 pads each once over on DA with interface. Wash then buff.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I was looking at some paint and it Recommended one or the other. Just wondering what the difference is before picking one. Thanks for your time 👍
Fantastic video, as usual. I would argue, however, that the solids content of the clear is not directly related to the mix ratio. Look on your tds sheets. The solid content is usually at the back in the test info.
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That’s 1 of the best explanations I have heard about the difference between dry spray and fine/thin paint coverage. Would love to see more along this train of painting explained, and covered. Too many bad explanations out there.
Next Friday will be one explaining gun set up 👊🏻👌🏻
What I enjoy most about your videos, is how well spoken you are. No profanity and the tech is understandable to the beginner.
I appreciate that!
You're very correct there, there is no need for people to record things swearing and carrying on. It definitely makes the viewing and learning much easier and more pleasant, that's an excellent point you raised.
I'm so proud of my two sons one is 31(owns his own auto repair shop) and the other is 26(works at a local high end restoration/custom shop). They both have knowledge and proficiency in the classic car industry. 🙂. Ty for your continued support and educational videos!
Congratulations! 👍
That is awesome!
I watch all your videos. I have learned a lot . You are the best teacher I have ever watched. Thanks again !
Wow, thanks so much!
Another tool that I need, because it's information that promotes success. Nice!
Thanks Dean!
As a painter for the last 21 years in collision and restoration you do a great job with your videos. Just wanted to mention that air pressure to the inlet is less important to the air pressure to the cap which you can buy cap testers for most guns. And yes the differences between clearcoats can be pretty drastic. Ive been using an lph 400 for the past 10-15 years or so, the weird thing i do is use an orange air cap typically used for base. I typically like low air pressure and slower arm movement. With the somewhat more recent introductions of stackable clears its given us more options. Its a difficult but great time to be a painter. Keep up the great content!
Low pressure, and Slow-even passes is not easy to do brother! Much respect to you for being good enough to do that! I’ve tried that, and I struggle with it. I remember when things changed many years ago and I went from using my (Sata 90-which I loved and was proficient with) at 45-50psi to HVLP(Devilbiss finishline) at 23psi moving slow…I messed so many things up I was ready to throw in the towel! I eventually modified my technique to somewhere in between speed wise; the tack coat became much more important to me, and I had to really focus on the thickness of my mixture -whereas back in the higher pressure days I overlooked those details to a fault. The only thing that I don’t miss about running the high pressure gun-was the London fog of atomized paint all around me 😂! More might’ve went into the air than on the panels.
@G-2-Eleven I was more referring to the differences between spray guns my sata 5500 takes significantly more air pressure at the inlet than say my lph400 to get 10 at the cap which is why I recommended cap testers for all set ups. I tend to regulate my pressure from a wall mounted regulator and have pressures for different guns marked on the regulator to coincide with the cap pressures I'm looking for and make fine adjustments in regards to temperature and relative humidity, paint viscosity etc.
Thank you!!
Yes 💯💯💯
Mr. Sylvester, I enjoyed this video not only for the insightful tips, info but also because of your ability to explain topics in a clear, concise and straight forward manner. You explain complex details very precisely yet keep the explanations simple enough for the novice to understand. Outstanding job!
Thank you very much. We’re going to do a really good one next week explaining the gun breakdown.
Always appreciate your videos. Hitting us with the facts with the numbers to back it up. No hidden details, no ego, just clean learning experience we can all benefit from as we get a handle on things and expand our knowledge. You guys are the best! 🔥
Appreciate you buddy ❤️
Great presentation again from the mighty Sylvester you learn in every speaking words he spell . Thanks for sharing !
Thank you so much
Thank you for these videos. Really appreciate your effort to help everyone learn. Your explanations are great
Glad you like them!
Thank you Travis for this great content!! I love watching your videos! You make things simple and easy to understand. I also respect the fact that you don't use profanity. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills with the world. Your work is astounding and your passion to achieve the best results possible is second to none. Please keep the videos coming. God bless you.
Thank you so much ❤️
Every time I watch one of your videos i do get knowledge that reinforces the confidence itat I try to have in my abilities, ty , good job
Awesome! Thank you!
Great info. Thank you for sharing and taking time to spread knowledge to all of us.
You got it! Thanks for watching!
This was very informative, makes you think about the process in a new light. Thanks for taking the time and sharing the information.
My pleasure!👍🏻👍🏻
Very interesting video. Looking forward to the one on paint guns.
I think that one might drop Friday
Awesome stuff man. I love your level of detail for sure!!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Increíble contenido. No puedo creer que este canal sólo tenga 47k suscriptores.
Thank you!!
Curious to see how much was shaved off from the more cost efficient clear. Same passes, fresh paper as close as possible. In my opinion It’s likely more is shaved off due to its lower solids content & will also likely not tolerate heat from a machine as well as the higher solid content clear, which would make it more vulnerable during the machine buffing process and then cause even more material loss.
Sounds like just using high quality clear and plenty of coats is the way to go.
Awesome videos! Really appreciate this content 👍🏼
Thank you!!! Yes very likely.
Great informative video, you explain things so well it makes it easier to understand and learn from. You mentioned about the flow coating an i never realised if you do happen to cut through to the first coats of clear that there'd be a halos you can see
Glad it was helpful!
Would be interesting to see a solid % comparison between the 2 clear coats.. also the difference of holdout between the 2.. would be a good test to mix up the same amount of each clear in different cups and let them sit.. weigh on a weekly basis and see which one has more tail solvents in the formulation and shrink more.. love the videos keep it up.
Great suggestion!👍🏻👍🏻
I loved ppg it was my favorite paint but the cost made me have to stop using it and I switched over to Sherwin Williams refinish
You think PPG is expensive? Price some Axalta(Dupont).
@@class5bodyworks basf glasurit is probably the most expensive
@@rongamble9884
I've used that too. Never really priced it though. I can only imagine.
GREAT VIDEO BRO!
Appreciate it!
Have you ever use SPI paint primers and clear ?
I have not.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMSit’s a excellent product used by many high end Restoration shops. It’s not crazy expensive and just as good as PPG,
Hey Travis just curious on your choice of guns for clear? Why the Ls400 and not Ws400 evo..? Preference or what? Love your videos and keep up the great information!
Honest answer I bought the LS for base coat and just started using it for clear too. I’ve not tried the other one yet
I was wondering what brand of paint can lid mixer and pourer you use for your one gallon paint cans?
Thanks
Harbor freight actually.
Uv protectants is a sales pitch to charge more, and as you revealed to your viewers most is blocked out during wet sanding. Australia.
Do you start with 600 wet or 600 dry? And what compound do you use from to to finish?
Scroll down to the video we have on removing all orange peel it covers every single step we use to get a mirror finish
Question; does a 3mil coating of clear have 3x the thickness of uv protection or does it all float to the top and thin out ? Thanks
I’m not sure where you are referring the UV protection as thinning anything out? If you put a certain amount of coats on you just need to know how many mills you have the UV protection has nothing to do with how much mills you have.
So if you spray 4 coats of clear with a 1.4 tip and got just over 2mm of thickness of clear , would you increase that to 5 coats using a 1.3 tip to assure you have enough thickness or are you still confident you have enough there to work with?
Thanks ,
Chris.
1.3 is a smaller tip, you would have less thickness.
I would not switch figure out what works for you and I would run the 1.3 or a 1.4 through the duration of the Paint job I will not change. This video is intended to just give you an idea of how to test the products that you use
Great video Travis! Just for clarification. Lets say you've painted the panel and finished it with 3 coats of clear. Then its left for a week, cut back and two more coats are applied (flow coats). Applied after 600 grit prep. Then its left for a while before cutting and buffing. So as I understand cutting this would be equivalent to cutting two coats. Because if those later two coats are cut through to the original 3 there will be a halo effect. Because that was essentially a mechanical bond and not chemical? So my question is if on the first application of clear you'd be much better off building that clear to 5 coats all on the same day so you'd be getting the chemical bond? That way, as I see it even if you have some dust specks or other imperfections etc there would be plenty of build to safely cut back? Thanks again for the videos. Cheers John.
Even though the paint is fresh, it still acts as two different paint jobs when you flow coat. Now, you could get away with that if it wasn't sanded in between but you are risking an adhesion problem. Not sure too many people anymore are flow coating when using a high solids clear. I usually do consecutive 4-5 coats then cut and buff. Get the same look while eliminating a step.
@@class5bodyworks That's what I thought. Cheers
You are correct you want to do four or five coats all at the same time. If you do one coat find out what your flash time is and then do a second coat. A good rule of thumb is doubling your flash time with every coat so second coat would be 20 minutes third coat would be 40 minutes fifth coat would be 80 minutes.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMSThanks Travis. Thats exactly what I'm going to do. Cheers John 🍻
@@mercedesmaintenance.6339 👍🏻👍🏻
Really interesting stuff right there! Sadly a lot of cars that get painted and sent out have very little clear left on them. The restorations i do require me asking the owner an initial question of…will this car be garage kept or will it live outside? If the answer is living outside-my response is I’m sorry I won’t be able to do this job for you 🤷🏻♂️. That gets their attention, some choose to do whatever is necessary to change their situation to make their answer a yes others won’t-and I say I’m sorry guys…I only have so many of these cars in me, it’s a ton of work and exposing it to the elements-( in my opinion) is the worst thing you can do for your car and makes me feel like the car isn’t a priority. My strong stance on that allows me to feel good about the condition of that category lol.
Now, like most shops I have to pay the bills, and the bills get paid with dinked fenders, and insurance turnarounds. I have no illusions with these cars…they may live outside forever and I absolutely want these cars to hold up as well as possible regardless. I really try to monitor how well the clear is laying down for me with these, and if I’m getting textiles then I will put as much as 5coats of clear -knowing that wrt sanding will remove 1-2 coats, and buffing (with a wool pad especially) will probably remove another coat. This leaves 2 good coats of clear for protection that I send them home with wishing them my best 😅. By the way that’s 4:1 clear. When clear is laying down very good-I do 3 wet coats-(initial tack coat not counted), nib any trash, then run wet abralon 1000, 1500, 2000, 3000 pads each once over on DA with interface. Wash then buff.
Have you ever tried out the mc161 from ppg?
I have not sorry
What's the difference between 2K HIGH Gloss Glamor & and uscol show clear.
@@kevinwest3689 read each TDS sheet and compare them. I’m not sure what clear you are using.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I was looking at some paint and it Recommended one or the other. Just wondering what the difference is before picking one. Thanks for your time 👍
Never took the last part of this video into consideration, but it makes sense, about going through one part of you clear into the first part ?
That’s correct sometimes it’s the simple things that make the biggest difference
I love you videos
Thank you!
Just teaching, without the crappy rock music. Thanks.
We provide you with tons of free information and you still find something to complain about. We like rock music.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Of course we do. Can't fix cars to Bluegrass. Love the channel.
@@kathysarmcandy1992 thank you!
Paint prices are rip offs.
Agreed!!
Fantastic video, as usual. I would argue, however, that the solids content of the clear is not directly related to the mix ratio. Look on your tds sheets. The solid content is usually at the back in the test info.
Agreed it was just a demo. It was more of a video to just show someone how to test whatever they are spraying.