I thought I had to get a extractor unit to do my oil change but I found a nut on the bottom of my engine that drains the oil. I cant fit a oil pan under there but I use garbage bag and it works good.
Hey Rob, I did 3 oil changes. It was actually clean after the 2nd change, but I went ahead and did the 3rd one. I really like the central pneumatic system. It worked well, I'd recommend it.
Im working on the same problem now in my boat .I have the engine torn apart except the oil pan the block is still in boat.I will remove the whole dipstick and let it all run out into bottom of boat then suck it up with a shop vac. then i will run some rislone threw it and let it get through the oil passages to clean them out from the gunk.Then i will give it another oil change and should be good as new.My problem was I ended up with a cracked block,a crack on both cylinder walls and i repaired them with JB weld for marine engines,just hope all is good when finished.
Good luck, let me know how it goes. I thought about doing that too, but the guys on the boating forum I'm on cautioned against it. Said that small pieces of hardened oil or other gunk might get loosened and find their way into a passageway and cause a blockage somewhere.
Jorden Epps well i had to take the block right out and take the oil pan off to clean everything up using varsol and a paint brush.Started to put motor back together after sealing cracks up with JB marine weld and let it sit 48 hrs .Just having problem with getting distributor right.I dont have a number six on my dist.anywhere.
A crack on the outside of the engine, so water is running out into the boat, is one thing. I've sealed such a crack externally with epoxy. If you had water going into the oil I'd like to know how you got JB Weld into the internal wall of the cooling reservoir. Seriously, I'd like to know where the cracks were. Hope you're still around.
Dude that is a serious amount of water contamination (20:10) to be in the filter and presumably throughout the oiling system of the engine. While you say it remained clear for 3 trips after I _would_ find it hard to believe that there is not an going issue that has simply gone away. Using a suction oil remover would not have _flushed_ out the remaining contaminated oil residue. If the oil filler cap has a _creamy sludge_ underneath its a sure sign the oil has mixed with water and traveled throughout the internal lubrication passages of the engine as this is the highest point of the oiling cycle. The engine will still run but the full extent of damage is just waiting to raise its ugly head.
Never did figure out what caused the milky oil. After all of the oil changes, the oil was clear and remained clear after three trips out on the water. never did figure out what it was.
I'm wondering also if it is condensation from the long wet winter layup. I changed the oil and filter last weekend (with the same oil changer in this video, that worked, although very slowly due to having to use one of the smaller tubes) and it stayed clear after two days out on the lake. Strange I had never noticed the mlikshake before and I've keep the boat in the same location for over 10 years.
No, I never did figure out where the water came from. I ran the boat a few times that season, and all was well. I didn't get a chance to run it at all last season, so I won't have any info until I run it thus season. I was starting to think that maybe somehow the water is being introduced through the dipstick tube when the boat cover sags down from rain water/snow. But that's just a wild guess. Good luck with yours!
I have just changed the oil in my 4.3 mercruiser and I see that I have water mixed in my oil, Not sure it would be worth putting more money in this old boat!!!!
today i was runing goodly with my volvo penta 5.7 osi v8 and when i stop the engine i constat coolant liquid out of the coolant liquid reservoir any one can say me what 's the problem
@@jkepps Thank you, sir. I have the same problem. I got the boat out from storage earlier this year. I was getting ready to change the oil and the first 2.5 quarts was water then the rest was oil (only 100 hours on the motors). I put fresh oil in, took all plugs out and compression checked good in all 8 cylinders (no water or oil in cylinders). Engine does run rough though. Don't think it is a cracked block (doesn't get cold enough in Florida). Hope I have as good of luck as you.
@@jimw7070 the block can be cracked by vibrations, basically these engines are built to be used in cars and light trucks so not balanced to maintain continuous high RPM and vibration is the best destroyer effect. to accentuate the effect, the castings are very rough and many times, the flashes are left in causing stress risers that are very good crack starters.
great video thanks
I thought I had to get a extractor unit to do my oil change but I found a nut on the bottom of my engine that drains the oil. I cant fit a oil pan under there but I use garbage bag and it works good.
Did you ever resolve your water in oil problem..if so what ? I have same problem
How many times did you change the oil before it was clear?
how do you like the central pneumatic system???
Hey Rob, I did 3 oil changes. It was actually clean after the 2nd change, but I went ahead and did the 3rd one. I really like the central pneumatic system. It worked well, I'd recommend it.
Im working on the same problem now in my boat .I have the engine torn apart except the oil pan the block is still in boat.I will remove the whole dipstick and let it all run out into bottom of boat then suck it up with a shop vac. then i will run some rislone threw it and let it get through the oil passages to clean them out from the gunk.Then i will give it another oil change and should be good as new.My problem was I ended up with a cracked block,a crack on both cylinder walls and i repaired them with JB weld for marine engines,just hope all is good when finished.
Good luck, let me know how it goes. I thought about doing that too, but the guys on the boating forum I'm on cautioned against it. Said that small pieces of hardened oil or other gunk might get loosened and find their way into a passageway and cause a blockage somewhere.
Jorden Epps well i had to take the block right out and take the oil pan off to clean everything up using varsol and a paint brush.Started to put motor back together after sealing cracks up with JB marine weld and let it sit 48 hrs .Just having problem with getting distributor right.I dont have a number six on my dist.anywhere.
A crack on the outside of the engine, so water is running out into the boat, is one thing. I've sealed such a crack externally with epoxy. If you had water going into the oil I'd like to know how you got JB Weld into the internal wall of the cooling reservoir. Seriously, I'd like to know where the cracks were. Hope you're still around.
How did your job weld job turn out?
Dude that is a serious amount of water contamination (20:10) to be in the filter and presumably throughout the oiling system of the engine. While you say it remained clear for 3 trips after I _would_ find it hard to believe that there is not an going issue that has simply gone away. Using a suction oil remover would not have _flushed_ out the remaining contaminated oil residue. If the oil filler cap has a _creamy sludge_ underneath its a sure sign the oil has mixed with water and traveled throughout the internal lubrication passages of the engine as this is the highest point of the oiling cycle.
The engine will still run but the full extent of damage is just waiting to raise its ugly head.
How do i properly flush the oil?
@@priscillaquinonez2219 just change run 30 to 1hr change again and repeat at least 3 times or till it’s clear
Never did figure out what caused the milky oil. After all of the oil changes, the oil was clear and remained clear after three trips out on the water. never did figure out what it was.
i had the same thing happen to me. never figured why it got water in it
Did you discover the milkshake after a lengthy period of non-use, such as over a winter?
Mel Robinson I had the same issue a few winters in a row now. Could it all be from condensation? There's no other way I can see it getting in there
I'm wondering also if it is condensation from the long wet winter layup. I changed the oil and filter last weekend (with the same oil changer in this video, that worked, although very slowly due to having to use one of the smaller tubes) and it stayed clear after two days out on the lake. Strange I had never noticed the mlikshake before and I've keep the boat in the same location for over 10 years.
Mel Robinson any updates?
The suspense is killing me
Did you ever resolve the problem? I have a similar problem.
No, I never did figure out where the water came from. I ran the boat a few times that season, and all was well. I didn't get a chance to run it at all last season, so I won't have any info until I run it thus season. I was starting to think that maybe somehow the water is being introduced through the dipstick tube when the boat cover sags down from rain water/snow. But that's just a wild guess. Good luck with yours!
if it smells gas like then you need to replace your intake gasket is my best guess
Why intake gasket? could be head gasket as well, no?
head gasket?
I have just changed the oil in my 4.3 mercruiser and I see that I have water mixed in my oil, Not sure it would be worth putting more money in this old boat!!!!
today i was runing goodly with my volvo penta 5.7 osi v8 and when i stop the engine i constat coolant liquid out of the coolant liquid reservoir any one can say me what 's the problem
Water pump is out
Did the problem ever come back or did you find out what the problem was?
The problem never came back, and I never did figure out the cause. I'm still baffled by it.
@@jkepps Thank you, sir. I have the same problem. I got the boat out from storage earlier this year. I was getting ready to change the oil and the first 2.5 quarts was water then the rest was oil (only 100 hours on the motors). I put fresh oil in, took all plugs out and compression checked good in all 8 cylinders (no water or oil in cylinders). Engine does run rough though. Don't think it is a cracked block (doesn't get cold enough in Florida). Hope I have as good of luck as you.
@@jimw7070 the block can be cracked by vibrations, basically these engines are built to be used in cars and light trucks so not balanced to maintain continuous high RPM and vibration is the best destroyer effect.
to accentuate the effect, the castings are very rough and many times, the flashes are left in causing stress risers that are very good crack starters.
Water from compressed air tank?