Seafoam--can't believe what it did to my engine episode 5--cylinder cleaning test using water!!
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- Опубликовано: 30 апр 2017
- In this video, I remove the cylinder head before the water infusion process to determine carbon buildup amount and then after water infusion to determine if it worked. Compression and engine temperature measurements are also included. You get to decide if it works. Hope you enjoy the video! Disclaimer: I am not sponsored by Seafoam in any way. I do not hold stock or any business interest in Seafoam.
Products Tested In This Video (in no particular order):
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This video is only for entertainment purposes. If you rely on the information portrayed in this video, you assume the responsibility for the results. Project Farm LLC 
Хобби
No, I’m not kissing a** here. I don’t really see why there’s a need for negativity. Project farm has not been bought by any sponsors and uses his own equipment at his own cost assuming all of the risk for our entertainment. He also goes through experiments that most of us would think of doing or buying products we have doubts about. In my honest opinion, project farm gets played on RUclips from my tv on Sundays and I can honestly say he’s the best subscribed channel I have. Please keep up the great content!
Thanks for the positive comments!
Keep up the great work,love the videos and I appreciate the time and work you put into them . They helped me with my old ford ranger.thank you
Amen to that Richard. Not many people would go to their own expense trying these different tests!
How do you KNOW that to be the case? Who has the time to make these kinds of video just for the hell of it?
Snake oil being pedaled by snake oil sales technics for the 21st century. If your car or whatever is in at least middle of the road good shape and is properly taken care of you don't need none of these kinds of elixirs and or magic potions! If its in lousy shape, old and worn out these thing will not fix it.
@@johns5591 who has the time to make these videos? Obviously projectfarm does. Sure he makes a little money on these videos but it's not from being sponsored by seafoam or other things he is experimenting with. He makes money from RUclips because he monetized his videos and so when they play the small 30 second ads that you watch or skip past after 5 seconds is where he is making his money. I haven't seen every single video he has posted to RUclips but I've watched a good amount and I have to say I think he does a great job of creating content and coming up with non biased answers that a lot of general laymen would like to know. He doesn't try an sell you anything ever he only comes up with a question that he thinks others might want to know the answer too and then sets out to determine what the facts are.
After rewatching this and seeing your new videos, you have come such a long way in both your presentation and video editing over the years, kudos to you. Thanks for your continuing work in testing and giving great information with no marketing BS.
Wow, thank you!
@@ProjectFarm amazing that you still reply to your comments on a 4 year old video! Keep it up man!
The internet is a great source of information. It's people like you that make it fantastic. Thank you for cutting through the chase, sharing your time, and passing along useful information.
I needed to know about bedliner sprays. First place I come? Project Farm! Now I am going with a roll on Hercules instead. Awesome guy, awesome channel!
When Im in the market for something I check here. So far it's helped make a decision on 3 - 4 items. Thanks for your unbiased results.
I have run water/isopropanol alcohol injection in a 4 stroke 1000cc turbocharged engine. Water-ipa injects into each intake track at 150 psi, the water alcohol mix is completely waporized when entering the combustion chamber. I've run this on many of my turbo charged Yamaha snowmobiles over the years. On teardown of the engines I've found them all completely free of carbon deposits inside the combustion chamber, on the valves, and on the top of the pistons. There is no harm seen from the injection of water. Reason for running water-ipa injection is the ability to run higher boost on pump gas insted of running race fuel. Poor man's race fuel is a nickname used for this injection. I've run 22 psi of boost making about 350 HP in the 1000 cc engines on pump gas. Side effect was a very clean engine in the intake and combustion chamber.
Thank you for your videos, very informative, highly appreciated. Greetings from Norway 🙂
Greetings! Thanks and you are welcome!
this actually seems like fun to do. more complicated than just putting race fuel into the tank but can be a lot cheaper when tuned right (and a computer can just remove the boost if the water/iso tank runs out)
@@blendpinexus1416 True, I have a failsafe switch that reduces boost to the waste gate setting, not do destroy the engine when the Water/IPA tank runs emty. I have the waste gate setting to allow for a boost level that is safe to run on Premium or 93 octane for USA or 98 octane for Europe. It's the cheap way out, and when you are riding trails you don't have the ability to get race fuel anywhere. Most servicestations sell IPA and water is free at the tap.
As far as a turbo charged engine what does methanol do?
@@tonyhilton1461 In my application (although I do not use Methanol, but Ethanol) it is to prevent water from freezing.
I believe sea foam does adequate job w/o having to replace the oil in the engine. Oil and extra time equates to more than $7.00
If you use less water (water injection nozzle) then you won't have water leak down the cylinder walls, also there's probably a lot of wear on the cylinder walls leading to leaking.
Temperature was very low. Water was being more liquid than vapour. I agree, smaller quantity of water would have made a difference. Also putting a load on the engine to make it run hotter.
@@madjimms so in the end, scott is right, less hassle, less chance of extra work if you use seafoam, no real logic to use water 💦
I knew a guy who ran a water injection system on his Rally Car..
He used a mixture of water and alcohol(increase the octane rating, cool the engine and quicker evaporation)
Also he used an atomizor behind the carby so that he was only injecting a mist of it to the engine....
Putting water as a stream into an engine is looking for trouble... Look how easy petrol will flood and engine and it evaporate far easier than water when it's a liquid..
Also the crankcase breather tube is very near... maybe it as suck some ? who knows.
Neighbors: it's pouring rain and Project Farm's been mowing his lawn for 2 hours.
lol
lol
lol
lol
lol
Anybody else amazed that a $100 mower keeps working after all this?
Great point!
Not really. Simple engineering lasts for ever. It's the same with cars, old diesels run laps around any new engine.
@@bixby9797 yea barely halfway
Mine won't after one season. 😂😂😂👍👍👍
Personally, I would not want that mower.
We had a Chevy 350 engine in a DOH crew cab truck which spends a lot of time at idle or slow speeds when working on the roads. It had a serious sounding knock and I thought it was toast. My buddy I worked with, great mechanic by the way, said he thought it was a carbon knock, so he did the water treatment for no more than 5 or 10 minutes at the most and the knock was gone. After working with him for almost 30 years, he never ceased to amaze me with his seat of the pants knowledge.
Thanks for sharing.
In my travels In High school years around salvage yards I was introduced to slowly pouring about a half a quart of transmission fluid in a running cadilac engine that was knocking, believed to be carbon buildup, causing the noise. the exhaust was billowing with smoke temporarily but It did clear out the carbon in about 2 minutes.
We learned the water to clean carbon trick when I went to motorcycle school back in the 80's We were taught to use a mister(spray bottle) to atomize the water. I've seen results of that on motorcycles and it worked well. dribbling the water in I would worry about not having it atomize correctly. I would love to see this same test with a water spray vs. dribble. Love your tests!
Thanks for sharing
I’ve seen this done before and the amount of black that went out on the ground from the exhaust was crazy. I wonder if it a safe to do it on Diesel engines.
I used a sprayer as well and got decent results.
@@NathanWorstell This is actually the only safe way to decarbon diesels
I agree I’ve only use spray bottle with a extremely fine mist 😊
I really appreciate all the time and cost you have put into this to teach all of us amateur motorheads about these techniques and products. Thanks! Subscribed!
Thank you!
We watched this guy in school and now I watch him all the time keep up the great work
Thank you very much!!
I just watched two episodes of attempting to remove carbon from a cylinder head. Water, then Sea Foam vs Marvels Mystery Oil.
Back in the early 80's when I started tinkering with engines I used the water followed by transmission oil to recondition piston rings. Over the years I have used Berryman, and STP, products.
However, watching your videos I believe that the MMO product does the best and can treat more common problems from fuel cell issues, head & upper cylinder, to rotating Assemblies.
Thank you for your time and studies.
Glenn
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
I’ve spent so much time and money keeping water out of my engines, there is just no way I’m putting it in on purpose. Great vids keep up the good work!
Thanks, will do.
Here in Louisiana, sometimes the insane humidity would probably introduce water vapor equivalent to close to a Gallon per Hour of driving!!! Curious to know exactly!!! But GREAT Vids!😎👍🏼🇺🇸
Funny.
I have always had trouble keeping water out of my walk behind snow blowers.' oil.
9:08 I appreciate the use of a 10 ton bottle Jack to raise up the front of the lawn mower.
lol. Great point!
Travis k gotta stay safe when operating heavy equipment
Why go outside (in the rain) for a brick when the available jack does the job.
Better to be safe than sorry ! Lol 😂
Use what you have handy nothing wrong with that. Our should we go out and buy one size for atv and lawnmower. One size for cars and trucks. Oh and on for my tractors.
Sea foam: spend $7 pour, run, change oil, enjoy. Water: Free design drip system, construct drip system, run and monitor for hours, change oil several times (not free), enjoy. You decide who's the winner.
Thank you!
The viewers won outright.
Seafoam in my book. Much less work on my part. My time is worth more than the $ 7.00 for seafoam when you consider all the extra time needed for the water drip, extra oil changes and the oil.
Not to mention that water has low lubricity. Water on the cylinder walls is oil NOT being on the cylinder wall. Seafoam atleast has lubricity. Thats enough for me to stay away from water.
It's easy to see the clear winner here. But for people who has time, H20 hands down !
*The way how the chap is a bit shy* in those older videos is adorable. But I love newer videos where he is more upbeat and smiley, too.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the awesome content…I’m still working through the back catalog after finding your channel a few years back. Always look for a review from you when it comes to buying outdoor power equipment or repairing equipment and vehicles. I appreciate the well thought out experiments and effort put into avoiding conflicts of interest with sponsored trials etc.
You are welcome!
I love this guys energy, short, concise, and to the point.
Thank you very much!
@@ProjectFarm I do this with a mist of water not sure if it would make any difference tho. Great video as usual👍
@@mattlawton4715 helps keep the engine hotter for better steam yep spray is way better than drips
Old Briggs lawn mower engine- “wow, after 12 years I’m retiring- going to a great retirement home called Project Farm!”
Project Farm- “heh heh heh..... just have a seat, this won’t hurt a bit...”
Keep up the great work sir!
lol. Thank you!
🤣
Only in death does duty end.
Ok
the more i watch the more i like-very thorough very easy to watch no tricks--the lubrication from seafoam and marvel in the oil and gas of mowers equipment and vehicles used on a regular basis wont rust freeze or built up smeg we used to call it--but your method is why the mower doesn't blow up great effort thanks again
Thanks for watching.
You are welcome
Wild looking back at this channel from back when I first became aware of it.
Production flow has clearly improved, as has recording of audio.
Keep doing great work!
Thanks, will do!
I think this guy needs his own TV show great work!!! I wish I had the time and resources to do the stuff that you're able to do
Thank you very much!
I agree that he deserves a TV show, but I am glad he is completely independent and on RUclips.
Last question... Yes I would and do use water. Always have. As in the other suggestion I actually switched to steam with wand applicator. The steam is what cleans and its already in steam form and much easier to deliver especially in a fuel injected engine.
I do suggest using the steam wand ... I believe you will be impressed with the outcome... Maybe use a vacuum pump on a small engine to help with the crankcase. Although you should see less with steam.
I agree injecting vapor would be better. My Dad had a vapor injector on a Chevy 402 engine. But on the other hand, Seafoam and be done
Mower engines are tougher than you think. Simple engineering. Great base for these kinds of experiments. My last lawn tractor that I purchased used) ran fine for over 25 years because I took care of it and used Seafoam in it.
Thanks for sharing!
2 Hours! Wow when I was a kid in high school auto shop in the 70s our instructor taught us to us a single glass of water down the carb slowly (over like 2 minutes) while the engine was revving at about 3000 rpm.
Another important point, I am not a small engine mechanic but when tightening head bolts or any bolt pattern DONT go in a circle, tighten the bolt across from the last one
Thanks for the feedback.
That pattern is so small and not receiving any rotational torque, the use of the impact is more than consistent enough given he replaces the gasket every time.
I think he knows that. It’s a cheap lawn mower. No need for caution.
Thats about right. I spray water maybe about 1/2 bottle worth max. It doesn't take much to clean the cylinder.
2 hours man thats to long brother … the secret is use ice cold water and only need one glass of water
You did this way to long brother…
But the ice cold glass of water also works great for cleaning carberator
You don't need that much water. About a cup or so should suffice, administered with a spray bottle into the air intake. Should be a job measured in minutes, not hours.
Thank you for this recommendation.
Yes! What I do to clean fouled spark plugs and clean the carbon off the head and valves is just take a glass of water and slow pour(1/2oz at a time) it into a car carburetor, or take off a small vacuum hose and let it pull the water straight into the intake manifold. The water goes in, and under compression then flashes into steam, shattering the carbon. Who told him 2 hours? and how much water?
your point would make sense if the cylinder head in the video was completely de-carbonised but it wasn't. minutes would have made barely any impact.
The engine temp dropping does not help, if the water was cycled it would have worked better I feel.
I agree!
Just a suggestion for ease of comparison. I know that the seafoam results are in another video, but a quick recap (just the pics) of the seafom would be helpful. Also would it be possible to use a split screen to show, say, the seafoam vs. water. This is more of a suggestion for the post editing process before upload and publish.
Great point and great tips! Thank you
You sir, are a Gem. I am certainly going to look into the steam/mist/atomizing water induction with varying high rpms while at full hot temp to de-carbonize my engine. I have a lifted 2005 4x4 Lariat with the (I'll try to say it without cussing) um, "fickle" 5.4L 3 valve engine. I am very appreciative and thankful for all help and insight I encounter that helps me understand my truck better, as it is indeed an uphill battle strewn with obstacles of all sizes, to say the least. I really just wanted to extend a thank you, Project Farm, for ALL of your work that have done, and all that you will do in the future. Better understanding, un-biasing, belief correction, and insight into the inner workings of my own vehicle are some of the many things I've gained from your efforts, sir. Im always wanting to learn, and always thinking is a state of mind I try to remain in. I've been serving as a heavy mobile equipment mechanic(I work on cranes) since 2009. Thank you for being one of the things that helps me in becoming a better mechanic myself, both for my personal vehicles, and work life.
V/R
Ryan
Thanks and you are welcome!
Many years ago an old timer mechanic showed me how he "steam cleans" the combustion chambers in car engines and I have done it many times myself, though not in many years now! Start the engine with the air cleaner off. Bring it up to tamp and raise the idle while pour water slowly out of a jar/cup and while it tries to die, raise the RPM higher to keep it running. I have seen a difference on spark plugs before and after doing this, so I have to imagine it helps clean everything else in the chamber!!
In doing this process, the steam is what cleans the combustion chamber. Every time I’ve seen this done, the engine was fully warmed up and small amounts of water were poured in periodically (not constantly fed for extended periods of time). The cylinders have to be kept hot for this to work. The engine got way too cold in this video and the water was not fully vaporizing when entering the chambers. This is why some started to make its way into the oil. I would encourage you to try this again, but instead of a constant trickle try adding small amounts by hand 3-4 times-giving the engine time to warm back up in between.
John Gotna I just posted the same thing you said before seeing your comment. I agree with you.
Also use a mist spray of hot water or steam. Be sure the engine is HOT. Best if the water is steam. Thats how Ive done it for along time. Im 67 yrs old
Should've used Flint, MI water. That would REALLY clean it.
LOL!
It would have raised the octane with all the lead in it lmao!
Hahaha
That surely would have killed that engine.
and take care of any knocking while it's in there.
I haven't even owned a lawn mower in 20 years but still loved your videos, as always, keep them coming!
Thanks, will do!
First of I have to say I love the way you try and be as fair as possible. I really like your stuff! I was first told about the water treatment 55 plus years ago and have used it many times over the years. I get the engine up to operating temperature and have about a quart of water ready. With the engine running at a fast idle I run the water through as fast as I can without stalling the engine. Once the water is gone I shut the engine off. After the engine has cooled right down I start it up and rev the engine up and down about ten times or more until the carbon quits coming out. It works great On cars trucks and tractors but I must admit I have never done a lawn mower lol. The idea behind it is that the water gets into the carbon and breaks the carbon up. The cooling breaks it free. Starting it up after just blows it all out. Anyway you did it one way but the principle did not add up to me so sadly it didn't work out. Maybe try it out the way I do it. Thanks for all the stuff you do!
Thanks so much! Thanks for the feedback.
Great video :) I have used water to clean my engine head/valves, but the way I did it was to warm up the engine, pull off the air filter, rev the engine to 3-4K rpm and then spray carbonated water from a bottle into the intake directly for a few seconds. The engine doesn't sound happy when you do that, but afterwords it runs fine again. Still, that is a quick-fix only, until you have the time to take the engine apart and clean/inspect thoroughly.
Thanks for doing these tests for us all. Great public service :)
Thank you!!
Great topic! As a wrench and smog tech for 18 yrs before switching careers. A poor mans trick on NOX failures on smog was the water in the intake trick. Definitely works as I always saw a substantial drop in NOX confirming carbon cleaning and hot spots in there gone. I will say, I believe thered be better results with applying water and varying throttle. My program was to rev up, pour in and continue applying throttle as rpms dropped. Usually just 4 or 5 quick blasts was all it took.
Seafoam? I always chose to use GM top end cleaner for the real job of top end cleaning without pulling heads. That stuff is amazing.
I prefer to use Techron gas additive over the years on every oil change to keep it clean in the 1st place.
Thanks for the feedback.
HAven't watched anything here yet, but I will say, before starting (just to keep it interesting) :
we dinosaur hot-rodders used to cobble together quite a few different variations on water-injection systems back in the 70s-80s to 'extend' the combustion cycle-time just a tad, while not messing with the actual ignition timing. Some people swore by them, others swore that they were just another fad that was useless unless one had an entire garage full of hi-tech diagnostic stuff to measure the variables with. Personally, I think the results varied greatly because of the amount of difference in everyone's engines at the time. The diff's between Chevys-Pontiacs-Fords-Mopars etc, displacements, manifolds, carbs, (this was before FI), exhaust flow-rates/pressures, etc and the variations in cam and timing specs etc. made almost any comparison, other than that of one engine to another of the exact same make/year/displacement etc., almost useless. Most of us tried it, decided whether it worked for us or not and either kept it or disconnected it. I built one on a '66 289 2bbl 4-spd Comet, drilled/tapped into the manifold on both sides of the base beneath the carb, stuck a .070 jet into the end of a piece of copper tubing on each side, that seemed to help mileage when I was cruising; but when I was out 'racing' and strutting on the weekends, I just shut it off, since it seemed to cut down on throttle response. But that's just me, and THAT engine, with THOSE specs, etc. Damn, I miss that car... as we used to say, that car would really 'shit n' git'...
Kids today have NO idea what they're missing (same as with the music)... Years ago, I remember taking my friend's nephew on a ride in my all time favorite car, a '70 Challenger 440+6. My friend was working on his car and needed a few parts (nuts n' bolts stuff) and instead of him taking his car down off the jackstands etc I said I'd go to the store for him. I got in, and his nephew asked to come with me. As I was buckling up, I told him to do the same and he actually laughed at me. I laughed back, then punched the gas and took him two blocks in about 1.8 seconds, then hit the brakes. He closed his mouth, nervously buckled his seat belt and kept his mouth shut the whole time till we got back.
LIFE LESSON LEARNED: and the lesson is: "Kid, back when Detroit had balls they used to sell some bad-ass machinery. If you get in a '70s muscle car, and the driver tells you to buckle up....there's a REASON!" American Muscle!! Never equalled!!
Man, you put a lot of work into this, thank you!
Thank you!
I would never put water in my engine 'cos it seems so counter-intuitive. But I have used a lot of Marvel in older cars (1980-something Monte Carlo and a 1970 Chevy Nova) that I had back then. and I thought it did help but not enough to continue using it. I am pretty biased about Seafoam which I think is great but I haven't sprayed inside the carbs yet. Question. my old supercharged Jag 2004? Mi bambino?
isn't it true that if I put one of those 'Restore' liquids in the engine though, for the next ten oil changes or for the rest of its life, I will have to put at least the same amount every time I change the oil?
Thank you very much for these videos; they're beautifully done, crisp, clean and to the point. Watching your programs is a bit like how going to church on Sunday used to be! I know it takes a lot of effort on your part! So Thanks again.
P.S. That is my wife's picture, not mine; I stole her laptop when she wasn't looking!
I watched this when it was posted. I just happened across it, I had to skim through it again. The video kist cracks me up. Sometimes the learning process is brutal. For all of us. All aside. Water does do a great job of cleaning carbon from a combustion chamber.
Steam.
Just watched this 5 years later. Wow. Your channel is still great after all these years. I’m wondering if the methodology gave the mixed result. I’d be tempted to add a mist of water in the air intake in a stop/start way to keep the engine temperature higher. You may achieve a better ‘steam clean’ that way. This appeared in my feed after searching Liqui-Moly Diesel engine cleaner. Still love your work 👍
Now that’s an idea
Water+methanol injection systems exist for ricer racers and drag racers.
Well I'm just gonna say befor I see the results the seafoam is definitely easier to use lol
Thanks for sharing.
you are supposed to use a spray bottle so the water is misted, that way it has a chance to be heated to steam. not just dump water in like that
David, Using a spray mister makes sense! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
no problem buddy
Project Farm Horrible thing to ask but I wonder if we could recreate this experiment only with a spray mister instead. The results might be worth the pain in the ass!
Would an airbrush be better still?
i wouldnt put water through anything but a 10 dollar harbor freight paint gun, let alone a 700 dollar air brush
Pulled many cylinder heads from many vehicles that had blown head gaskets. The affected cylinders were nearly spotless from the steam cleaning every time.
Thanks for commenting on this!
GM has a habit of blowing head gaskets :P
I have a boat with a leaking head gasket on my 2 stroke. Only one cylinder and the spark plug looks brand new after a whole season
Derrick Hodges Derek as you have said bad gaskets or cracked cylinder heads the Pistons were spotless.And the lawn mower runs low cylinder temperatures so it can’t be done in a small engine.with a car I have been cleaning my engines in my cars like this since the 70s and they come out spotless.one engine I built 28 years before that and it looked like it didn’t have a month on it.Just don’t be a moron and hydro lock the engine by dumping to much water to fast as it can bend rods etc...jkfl
I've had the same experience
ProjectFarm, thanks for the great videos! I’m sure you’ve heard it quite a few times already but I would recommend using a spray bottle and misting the water in or injector nozzle with a container connected to regulated air to pressurize the water to be able to mist it. Also what temperature was the water? I use hot water to clean carbon due to the fact it will not cool the combustion chamber as much. The reason a blown or leaking head gasket cleans so well is that it is heated coolant and steams it. I guarantee with a spray bottle with hot tap water will provide drastically improved results. Thanks again for the great videos!
I think this was very interesting to watch and you’re very creative in creating makeshift devices as part of your testing. I think the gallon of water was excessive. A sprayer bottle might provide a better result as the mist droplets should convert to steam faster than droplets of water.
Overall I think the result was very encouraging and would definitely try this on my car.
Thank you!
Thanks for all the many hours of work you do for these test , it is informative and why the majority of us subscribe ! 👍👍
Thank you very much!
@@ProjectFarm when a car head gasket goes bad and the water gets in to the cylinder it cleans it spotless maybe because it's doing it for a lot longer but the piston where the bad gasket is is always like new. It would be good if you had an old scrap car to do experiments on. This is a great channel keep up the great content 👍
The way It works is with the engine at operating temp rev it to about 2500 Rpms add a burst of water. The water cools the carbon deposits on contact breaking them free from the engine surfaces. You don't run the engine on water constantly. It needs to be added In short bursts To allow the surfaces you cooled to heat up agan.
Thank you for this recommendation!
Eddie 27886
That's how I have always done it.
My gues would also be coal liquefaction at these conditions, cleaning even that stuff that a wire wheel cant get. Too much water and it would be too cold for this to happen.
The water is flashing to steam and steam cleaning it.
Eddie 27886 this guy gets it
Farm, you do so much effort for each video, it's amazing. Thanks again.
Thanks and you are welcome!
Wow! Thank you for reading the comments sir! I really love your channel and the way you go about things. Very impressive 😅I appreciate that you did the water test I recommend 😅
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for suggesting this video idea.
Excellent test! Antagonists could argue that lubrication failure could affect results-negatively. But results showed improvement!
I used water injection for octane improvement in the old days.
Thank you for the feedback
In what? And how low of a ratio water to fuel and which fuel?
Great video. I also did what you did on a 2015 Kia Rio and let the intake slowly suck water in, unfortunately i bent the connecting rod. I later discovered that this was due to the intake manifold design of the vehicle, some of the water was getting into the engine and the rest started pooling on the bottom of the intake. I did a snap throttle and all that pooled up water go into the engine all at once hydrolocking it. I have done this water trick for the past 25 years and never had a issue but like you said you always run the risk of damaging the engine.
Wow! Thanks for the feedback
@@emma67890 Thanks i did try what you said and removed the intake after to inspect how well it cleaned the carbon off the valves, it did help a bit but there were still large chunks of carbon stuck to the valves. I guess the best way is to scrape it off manually.
auto repair 7 years experience MANY types of repairs.
Always AMAZED @ blown head gasket repairs - the piston & valve heads were: like new looking so i concluded water or water w/antifreeze ? DEFFINATELY & ALWAYS caused the total removal of carbon(j whatever else it is)
of the cylinder's pistin crown & valve heads
Thanks for sharing.
Oooh boy, those jars full of mayonnaise you pulled outta that poor thing sent shivers up my spine. I wonder had a car head gasket blow right after I spent months fixing it up after a wreck learning from RUclips as I went, seeing that took me back.
way too much water for way to long
Ken Ezzell, Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
I would be concerned about engine wear with the oil so depleted from the water..Was worth a try and now we all know more then we did...:)..
yup... you are right... and if he'd have heated the water to 200 degrees prior to injecting it would have cleaned it right up without all the water in the oil. you are right, my friend!
+Bruce Dakin water won't displace the oil I imagine
no it wouldn't.
back in the days of carbureted autos, i routinely did this with just a couple quarts of ice water. the engine needs to be well into operating temp, you hook a hose to a vacuum port, rev engine to 3 or 4 k, then stick hose into ice water. as engine coughs and chokes you will see all the crud go out the exhaust. once it's choked it down to nearly dying, pull hose from water, clear it out with some revs, then do it again.. repeat till you've gone through a couple of quarts. zero water ends up in oil.
for proof of this method one needs to only have seen the effected cylinder where a head gasket has failed allowing coolant to be introduced into the cylinder. the effected piston and chamber will be spotless, right down to the ring lands.
To be honest with you, from what I have observed, I believe that the carbon deposit that was on the top of the head was transferred to the head of the piston and the one valve.
If I had an engine that needed to be cleaned. I would choose to use an engine cleaner to do the job and forget about using water.
You took head off twice clean it off and wire wheel wins left sea foam and water in the carbon
My friend , Harry, an I studied adding propane conversion added to gas carb on 350 Chevy. We played with water injection too. We ran a small copper water line across intake, but we didn't drill hole small enough, until I got really small drill bit from jewelry store. Hole so small water wouldn't flow without vacuum pressure drawing into running system! It helped lower temperatures too!
Thanks for sharing.
I highly recommend redoing the test with atomizing the air to some degree
Great test overall!
Great suggestion!
@@ProjectFarm Thank you! Also by air I totally meant water but I think you understood that :)
my guess is the engine was too cold from the water, this process uses the steam from water to clean the cylinder head.
crazysvt03, I agree! Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
That's what I was thinking too. I wonder if an even slower trickle of water would have allowed for a higher temp and therefore more steam action. I'm impressed at how much carbon was removed from the head even though it took so much time.
yup.... sucking the water into a vacuum while the water is BOILING is really the very best way to do this "steam cleaning" test
Dave Reiland or if the engine was under load, creating a hotter combustion chamber
Usually I run a gallon through a car engine in about 15-20 minutes. It requires a slight throttle opening to keep it alive but the engine stays hot enough to keep it rolling steam. I thought the video was great though!
awesome video! I didn't think a lawn mower engine could be cleaned with straight water. Steamers is what they use in Europe. like a little carpet cleaner with a nozle
Emilthehun, Thank you for the encouraging comments regarding the video!
That's not a bad idea - one of those hand-held steam-cleaners discharging into the carb would probably be a valid method for a small engine. On a car engine, a high-pressure pump and mathematically calibrated atomising injector is the go for an OEM-quality installation.
BensDR30 yes that's what I have on all my cars. boosted or not. water injection gave me an extra 30tq at the wheels with no tune on my 3800
Project Farm awesome brother keep them coming
Yes it's steam you need to clean, engine needs to be hot, these briggs and the carb/manifold system on them doesn't get hot enough for vaporizing the water. With a little alcohol added to steam I'll bet you might get an engine to run on a water/alcohol mixture only, There's about 2 cups of water in ever gallon of gas, you see it coming out a cold tailpipe on cars, there's also hydrogen in water and a lot of cylinder pressure developed by expansion of said water to steam, some of the hydrogen liberated is also burned. I did some studies of high mileage carbs and all the principals of best and most efficient combustion rely on high/er operating temps and more complete vaporization of fuel.
It's not a big deal a little carbon in the cylinder chamber, where is it proven that a clean cylinder is any better better, looks nice but is it better? Carbon is a thermal barrier, keeps combustion heat in the cylinder, if ya don't have overheating problems that's a good thing, it's why you gunked up the piston cause it was running too cool, and your compression test being higher after the water test might be simply from the carbon/junk deposit build up on piston raising compression slightly.
Very impressive! I want to thank you a lot Project Farm. You are absolutely amazing!
Also, maybe trying this with engine coolant will serve a different effect? That is known to clean sparkplugs, and maybe carbon too? I've seen engines run on their own coolant and it doesn't impact the oil that much.
P.S. Subscribed. :)
I would say it's a competition but in Florida, it's so humid that engines basically run on water and fuel!
Thank you! Thanks for watching and subscribing! Thanks for the video idea.
Hey there, how are ya? Staying healthy & safe during these crazy times I hope.
1st off thank you so much for your very knowledgeable videos & views of the many different types of products used by all of us!! Thanks also for your time & money spent on performing these tests. Very much appreciated!!
As for what another viewer has said.. Seafoam would be my choice. I couldn't afford too, nor chance ruining my engine with water. Plus the time to set up that contraption. I must add in which ALL of YOUR contraptions are some serious MAN-GEN-NUITY!!! Keep up the great work!
Thanks!
@@ProjectFarm No.. Thank you
Wow!!! 2 gallons???? Use 2 gallons of Seafoam at the same rate and see what happens!! Not a fair test at all!!!
Jason, I used nearly 1 gallon. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Jason Colcomb and compare the prices....
Well water is free
You do realize that people pay for water whether it be from the tap or in a bottle as distilled? No treated water is free.
Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
It's as old as the hills to use automatic trans fluid to keep carbon at bay, as an old gasoline engine trucker we always put AT fluid in the gas tank, it lubed everything . This test you did works because of the cool liquid is what breaks the carbon off the hot parts. However not to many took the engine apart.
trans fluid the carb for carbon breaking; and a pint (to 4-5 quarts motor oil) in the crankcase to dissolve slug and carbon build-up, plus it keeps all internal rubber seals supple...
Used to dribble one 10 ounce Coke bottle of plain water through the carb of my older cars just before oil changes. Never seemed to hurt the engines, did seem to "blow the carbon out" as my dad used to say. Good videos!!!
Thanks for sharing.
Awesome video. just found this channel and really enjoy this guys brain!
I love that a 7 dollar can of seamfoam < 2 tanks of fuel, oil changes and the whole IV setup/vacuum setup
Thank you!
Should only need about a glass of water slowly poured down the carb over a couple minutes
Used diesel trucks in my work, had a fuel strike for a month. So I added 1/3 diesel to my 1800cc petrol engine, having a adjustable SU carburetor, ran it. 1800 rpm idle.
Rebuilt engine later, the head was bright, clean, no build ups. Diesel cleaned it.
Thanks for commenting on this!
Pleasure mate. From down under.
My cousin used to just dump a can of brake fluid in the petrol. Cleaned everything.
Redex does the same thing
Which is the main reason a lot of folks choose diesel! Pay more at the pump for hundreds more miles on the odometer.
where I'm from diesel is much much cheaper than gasoline so it pays double.
My grandpa did this with water back in the 80s' to clean out the carbon on my mom's 440 in her 69' RoadRunner
Great feedback. Very nice car!!
I prefer the Italian tune up myself :)
@@codyluka8355 Berryman special! VGG deeeeluxe!
I did it to my 68 Roadrunner back in the 80s as well lol.
Now you dont pull the cord to start the engine, you have come a long way sir!!! great content as always
Thanks 👍
When I was a kid, we called the water thing a Kentucky valve job.
Thanks for sharing.
I got a Kentucky valve job once, but it wasn’t free and it wasn’t anything like this...
funny but TRUE
@@f5tornadeau heheh
this was a great video. I really appreciated the work you put into this. I truly believe the water must be very well atomized, but still be introduced into the engine at a rate fast enough to clean the engine, but not so much water so fast that you can hear the engine run differently as you could hear in this video. I would suggest using a few ultrasonic mist makers to very effectively atomize the water. I would think you still need plenty of water entering the engine at a sufficient rate for steam cleaning to take effect, so, If it were me, I would start out at like 3 or 4 ultrasonic mist makers and rout the mist to the carburetor inlet. Also I would still run a full gallon through. Is there any way you could try this for another video?
Great going guy, now everyone knows Gliddens secret paint formula!!!
lol. Funny!
I’ve watched a ton of your videos buddy you’ve so much better at making videos over the years lol 👍🏾
Wow, thanks!
Love your videos. I bought a ztr at auction in a downpour and later found dipstick not seated well. I drained the now milky oil and flushed motor and crank case with diesel and let drain a long time... then filled with mobil-1. Engine is fine still after 2.5 years...
Thanks so much! Thanks for sharing.
In the leaded fuel days, we used to see carbon buildup to the point of causing knocking. Similar sound of rod knock. We would slowly pour a glass of water down carb., and shut off engine to let steam loosen, then restart, and repeat until knock went away. I have not seen this since lead has been removed from gasoline. The amount of carbon shown is harmless.
Dave, Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
Quit using a generic fucking "thanks for watching" bullshit and have a real conversation.
Richards WasteLand
Take a hike.
+Richards Stickupass - Or post your own video instead of whining, a video where you can say any effin' thing you want to, because it's YOUR video.
Richards WasteLand I'll never understand the need of some people to be a dick for no reason.
2019. and still love to watch his videos
Thank you!!
I have added water to my engine many times and would do it again if I thought it would need it. Normally though it's a quick process. Wild revving the throttle give the engine a quick slurp of water two or three times. The science is that that cold water it's that hot combustion chamber causes an explosion and blast the carbon loose. But the engine has to be hot whereas the way you did it obviously the engine was cool down as you trickled the water in. I have torn down motors with lots of miles on them and found the combustion chamber and valves to be surprisingly free of carbon. Quick simple and you don't get water in the oil. Love your work.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
Hi my name is Joe from Sydney Australia been watching your videos really love your work very helpful information keep up the good work looking forward to more videos thanks.
Thanks, will do!
A sick lawnmower with an Ivy!
LOL! Yes.
Project Farm, for the question you asked at the end, "Would you use water to clean deposits in the engine", I have, but never had very good results with it compared to a volatile liquid like Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil. It's true, water can have really good results, but the thin line between positive results and failure is too narrow for me. From what I've witnessed, it's not really water that's doing a cleaning, it's steam, and to get the right balance between pouring water/creating steam, you run the risk of hydrolock and water mixing with the oil.
Now, hydrolock is a risk no matter if you're using a solvent or water, but where something like MMO, Seafoam, B12, or Gumout can safely creep into the crankcase and intermingle with the oil, water can't. And a solvent treatment, unlike water, is not really dependent on temperature. You don't have to worry about whether you're misting or pouring, or whether the temperature inside is enough to create steam. In fact, I've had the best results from pouring MMO or Seafoam straight into the spark plug wells, sitting overnight, bumping the ignition to spray out the excess, putting the spark plugs back in and running it rough for a bit before changing the oil. You really can't do that with water. (You could, but your motor wouldn't be very friendly to you afterward.)
Marvin, I enjoy reading your comments! It's clear you have a lot of experience and expertise. Thank you for watching the video and commenting!
Thanks for making them! This is rapidly becoming one of my favorite series on youtube!
I always did a steam cleaning, then follow up with seafoam because it's a solvent and will clean up the majority of the remainder. That's for very nasty engines though, ones that you test this stuff on in the hopes you don't have to pull the cylinder heads on it.
Holley used to make a water injection kit for cars. When I was a kid I put one on my Ford 390. It helped with pre-detonation by keeping the temps lower in the combustion chamber. Controlled by manifold vacuum, when you romped on it lower vacuum caused a spray of water. It seemed to work as I remember. I still have that car, 64 Galaxie 500XL.
Thanks for sharing.
I remember my Dad doing this a lot at the shop and how much fun it was to ride in back of pickup at night and all the sparks flying out of tail pipe 😊
Thanks for sharing.
I could watch these videos all day
Thank you!
@@ProjectFarm Don't stop doing what you're doing. Be encouraged...your vids ARE important, and DO inform. Nothing's perfect, and everyone has a right to their own opinion.
Just because the "squeeky" wheel is the loudest, DOESN'T mean the other wheels don't NEED grease too!
Some of us may rarely comment, BUT GREATLY VALUE YOUR CHANNEL!😉👍
It might work, but personally I'll never put water in any of my engines
Thank you!
Look up water injection in world war ll aviation.
When you drive during a rain storm you are probably sucking water vapor through your engine's air filter. Never say never ever.
You most likely have a fuel injected engine and the water to clean carbon is for cars with carbys only , obviously it is unessecary for fuel injected motors as they are more efficient and have no carbon build up unless you have Volkswagen designed CDI which is bullshit for carbon build up
Michael Wilson how dose a fuel injection motor have no carbon buildup when your still running a carbon base fuel if there is no additives in the fuel it doesn’t matter how you put the fuel in the motor it is going to have carbon buildup
I would not use water...fantastic video. I have learned a great deal from your videos and insight. You are one smart fella
Thanks!
Thanks for putting in the work to make this video. It proves one thing. Time is money. I can't believe people will waste 2 hours of their lives to save 10 dollars.
Thanks for the feedback.
I've been a master ASE certified Tech since ASE's inception, as well as a certified Honda instructor as well a member of several major factory sponsered racing teams. With over 45 years of wrench twisting under my belt, I would never have tried any kind of injection, water, MMO, or seafoam on an engine that had such low compression. A simple wet dry compression test would have shown that the rings or piston and cylinder were worn and that the engine had excessive blowby. Even with any kind of additive if it cleaned off the carbon, the risk of having small pieces of carbon getting blown past the pistons would have caused scoring and possibly even more damage. Also, using a small engine is not an accurate test. When water is added to an automotive engine, the intake manifolds are heated either by coolant or exhaust circulation so the water is evaporated into steam prior to entering the combustion chamber. Later model automobiles, especially those utilizing direct injection systems have a major carbon buildup problem. Even to the point of requiring removal of the cylinder head(s) to clean off the carbon. I have successfully used Seafoam in the fuel system to clean the injectors but don't expect it to clean off tens of throusands of miles of carbon buildup acquired by using the lowest priced fuels you can find. Techroline was desigened to be used in every gallon of fuel for long periods of time, and it does work, but it is not found in lower grades of fuel, so it will cost a few cents more per gallon. Adding it to your fuel as an additive would require that it be done with every fillup. There isn't a single item on the market that will de-carbon an engine with a one time treatment. Carbon buildup is the result of an incorrect stoichiometric Air/Fuel mixture, which is virtually unattainable in any variable Load/Speed engine, although engines are designed to come as close as possible to the ideal ratio of 14.7:1. Under hard acceleration or heavy loads, the ratio drops from 14.7 parts of air to 1 part fuel and there is less air and more fuel entering the engine and without enough air to completely burn the fuel the excess fuel turns into carbon buildup. It's a battle vehicle owners and drivers have been fighting since the invention of the internal combustion engine. How to achieve greater power with less fuel consumption and fewer emissions. If anyone can figure it out, I'll guarantee threre are dozens of manufacturers looking just for you. Great video by the way. I hope it saves someone from thinking that a blast of water into his old worn out engine is going to bring it back to life. I'll bet even after you got everything all cleaned up, it didn't run one bit better than it did before.
All great points and thanks for commenting.
Ramsey Williams you can say that again! Lol
Zzzzzzz
ADEBISI ADEBISI the poster that knows zero about air fuel ratios, and has google... sad
Project Farm thanks for taking the time to post your video
for two hours? more like water boarding.
Khalid Khudhori, That was indeed a long time! I was adding the water very slowly to prevent damage. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
But that did the opposite, causing bearing wear damage by running so long with fouled oil. Getting every last trace out with more than one oil change afterwards, was fairly irrelevant compared to that initial damage.
Khalid khudhori oh , hell no, WATER BOARDING.... sounds fun.....
Stinky, You have no idea if any damage occurred to the bearings at all. Oil is still slick with water in it. You have not seen the conditions of the bearings before and after.
Thats funny i enjoyed that one
My father showed me this trick in new Mexico after driving from Tampa Florida. A hot V8 Chevy with 4 barrel carb. Revved the engine opened secondaries and pint at a time, blasted all nasties out the side pipes of my El camino. No water intrusion. Just a large tumbler of ice water... 1979.( He was a master mechanic in the army) rest in peace.
I'm a big fan of the channel & just wanted to toss a quick comment out. This info comes via my father, who was a big name in auto racing back in the late 50's and before that an instructor for the Air Force just after WWII in internal combustion aircraft engines. His highest qualification was in the Pratt & Whitney R4360.
The history of using water in ICE's is long and storied, and much of my dad's knowledge came front USAF research regarding the use of water/water methanol injection.
The first time he guided his very skeptical son through using water in an engine, it was accompanied by this: "Son, this car has been driven for years around town on short trips. This has caused it to get so loaded up with carbon that it's not working the way it should. When you dump a large quantity of water in a hot engine, the water soaks into the carbon, turns to steam, and blows the carbon apart. Once the water cools the engine down, it won't do any good. Once the engine is good and hot, manipulate the throttle to keep the engine running and DUMP A QUART OF WATER DOWN BOTH BARRELS OF THE CARBURETOR AS FAST AS YOU CAN WITHOUT KILLING THE ENGINE (it was an AMC 343 V8 and only took maybe 8-10 seconds)."
I understand that much of the advice about using water to clean engines has been to feed over a longer period of time. However, executed as my father instructed it is effective and does not contaminate the oil. I run a performance sportbike equipped with water injection and have never had oil contamination. The rate of feed is critical. Water injection is far slower than in your test, and cleaning is faster but of VERY short duration.
Thank you so much for your good, unbiased and scientific testing.
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
I am impressed with your videos. Besides the smart as comments from people you do your tests systematically and with honest results.
Thank you very much!
I am also impressed with his videos. All to often people for what ever reason, look for something they can fault. He does his videos out of his own pocket, and I find them informative and interesting. Like my old Grandma used to say "If you can't find something good to say, don't say anything at all" advice to live by. Constructive criticism does not need to be negative criticism. Thank you for your positive comment.
Agreed!
Please just know as systematic as these test may seem to be - they do not even approximate any testing standards, think SAE, ASTM, API, ISO etc. I worked as a engineer tech in a testing lab for an OEM and after market manufacture and while a different type of products ( tho automotive and other equipments) I became quite familiar with testing protocols and methods. These videos come closer to infomercials demos than valid testing.
They used to sell "water injection kits" in the 70's & 80's. The cars back then had a lot of problems with pinging (premature ignition). It cooled the combustion temps. It would fog water on hard acceleration/ more wide open throttle. You could also add alcohol to the water. Was very effective.
Thank you!
DKR they still do this today, 50/50 water/methanol or just straight water is used on performance diesel trucks and turbocharged gas engines to cool the intake charge and keep the engine alive.
@@jasontruman1215 10:1 fuel to water is sposed to be optimal
batvette well every water/meth manufacturer out there does 50/50.... well it’s actually marketed as 49meth/51water so it can be shipped through the mail not hazmat. 50/50 is optimal for performance but sure maybe a higher water content might be better for cleaning but I’ve seen the inside of an engine that was running the normal 50/50 and it looked brand new!!!! Zero carbon.
Truly enjoy your videos. Very informative
Like other viewers I enjoy your painstaking detailed investigations of various products and appreciate the time and effort to disassemble and reassemble machinery in order to illustrate the process/progress of a treatment. I might suggest that when injecting water that you do it as a fine atomized mist or from a steam tool. The amount of water you were inserting was way more than the engine could process, made obvious by all the mixing of water into the oil.
I had seen for myself on an old Ford I had and was told by an uncle who ran an Esso/Exxon station for a number of years, how a customer whose car had a coolant leak into a cylinder had shown the valves, the head and piston top to be clean right down to bare metal. I believe the water introduction has to be slight in order to not adversely affect combustion chamber temperature otherwise you do not get the benefit of true steam cleaning.
I use a handheld steam cleaner with the steam directed in after the mass flow sensor on my '99 Tahoe, through the hole that the PCV air is drawn out of. There is a drop in rpm which is brought back up to the high idle speed that I do this at. I have a homemade tool for holding the accelerator back while I hold the hose up to the port. I can only guess how much effect this treatment has as I am not wont to pull a head off for inspection. It has not caused any lack of performance and at 344 K plus it is running very nicely. I have run steam into my mowers and did not get the oil like what you had.
My steamer is a Perfection but there are other brands on this page. The capacity on mine is 8 ounces and I do the car treatment in blocks of three.
www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=perfection+steam+cleaner
@DESTROY white supremacy BY ANY MEANS NECESSARY ~ Unless you pull parts for visual inspection you can only go on any possible improvement in performance. Spray your air intake line post mass flow sensor with carb cleaner or chem of your choice to make sure there are no leaks which will affect how the engine runs but wont show up as a check engine light. I found where the tube mounts to the throttle body, to be letting air in which will definitely affect shift points. The Silicone "ring" gasket at the end of the tube was damaged. I inserted one or two of those O ring gaskets that they sell for the household water filters, about a 3 inch O.D., and with some non hardening gasket sealer, tightened it up nicely. I found the leakage with carb. spray.
My 3 stage, possibly soon to become a 4 stage oil vapor catch system DOES keep the liquid component from going back into combustion which makes for pretty much all the carbon that accumulates in the combustion area. If I had a GDI car and access to PCV vapor flow ie, a hose, tapping into the line would be the best way of filtering out muck from going back into the engine. I had read that some, at least, current engines don't have the PCV vapor flow as an external circuit. Two GDI systems, one being Toyota, have a hybrid injection where it alternates between GDI and standard injection which sprays gasoline onto the intake valves, in effect "washing" them to reduce or eliminate carbon build up. Scotty Kilmer did a video on that.
I usually get an oil water emulsion from the first stage vapor can, and that mainly happens during periods of high humidity. 2nd stage has also shown emulsion at times while the third stage, a glass bottle, produces liquid oil. I am thinking a 4th because after about a 4 K trip this summer I saw the faintest amount of liquid oil on the PCV intake. My vapor system is entirely homemade so the appearance is a bit rough. I may take pictures one day and link to my Flickr page. The collected effluent goes to recycling along with used oil from oil changes I do.
I would like to know your steam treatment results and sincerely hope "Farm Boy" can do the test. His thorough method should be enlightening. Good Luck ! Gordon
This is an informative video, but I won't be trying it myself. I do have a 99 Expedition with the 5.4L, and more than 231,000 miles I will be doing with Seafoam soon.
Seafoam is a proven product. I agree, it's much safer to use Seafoam.
I think since the head was off, just clean it by hand.
93sundance, Makes sense. I chose to leave it, since I'm using the same engine for an upcoming test with ATF to see if in can do what water couldn't. Thanks for watching the video and commenting!
I'm not sure the results of this test are valid as a result for water. If you look closely you can see that new deposits were formed on the piston top although everywhere else looks pretty clean. I suspect these deposits are due to oil or unburnt gas depositing on the piston, and not being water-soluble. Since the oil level was raised it may have gotten behind the piston, in which case it would have been coming back through the rings just like the water was being blown the other way.
oh so youre a joke maker
The point isn’t to clean his engines-IT’S TO TEST AND SEE WHAT WORKS (without having to disassemble).
Which is exactly what the engine manufacturers recommend, a manual decarbonization of the combustion chamber after so many hours. IIRC 500 hours on the old Kohler single cylinder K series engines. Cool test though, supplied water for too long though.
Water added to the intake, fast cools and FRACTURES the carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. That is why you need to have the engine up to a very high temp before you add the water. After the initial hit of water, it has cooled down enough it will not do any more good as the carbon is not red hot anymore and it just runs the water through the engine and as you found out, dilutes the oil. Sea foam is a chemical compatible with fuel and oil so it reacts favorably to the gas and oil when exposed over an extended time as you did in this test. Hard to compare the two in this manner when the water only cools and fractures the red hot carbon and blows it out the exhaust and SeaFoam chemically cleans the carbon after it cools it. I really like all the videos you are producing! Very thorough, fair, and relevant to most of us gear heads.
Thanks and you are welcome!
I haven’t read any comments (yet) and about half way through video.
I keep thinking though …
When using water …
Seems to me that a step was missed. Idea is steam. Steam is what’s gonna clean. You would have to keep an eye on engine temperature, making sure that when engine temp dropped below let’s say 200F or so, water feed is stopped. This would also ensure the engine doesn’t hydro lock by accident.
Great vid!
Have you ever tested blowing steam from a steam cleaning machine wand?
Spray works well with water also the mist nozzles.
Not yet. Thank you for the video idea!
I was just thinking this. from a hot humidifier?
Water in a hot combustion chamber turns to steam. It’s why engines that blow head gaskets have clean pistons.
You need larger partials if water to slam into the metal for it to work. Due to water can not be compressed. Also why it went around the rings & damaged his motor.
That's what I said and comment on many decarbinizing videos, I'd love to see a handheld steam cleaner and hot it effects an engine - also the engine's rpms must be high enough
Retired GM Technician and consultant. When I supercharged engines I added water injection.Water in a engine done right can be a good thing Small amounts (mist) It cleans very well. To this day I'll boil a cup of water and VERY SLOWLY pour it down a carburetor or throttle body a little bit at a time .This is done with the engine running . The biggest probeblem with to much water in a engine is it's heavier then oil or gas so it is on the bottom of the oil pan where the oil pick up tube is. If you boiled the water first on your test you would have had better results
Thank you
i am no mechanic..but i had a500cc velo bike ,,i lived on the east coast of england ,,always foggy and misty ,,my bike ran faster smoother ,and just plain better on a misty foggy day .,,,thats why they race on the isle of man TT lol
@@petermoyes8766 More evidence would be going down to the drag strip. Sometimes it rains so they have to stop but when it clears you will see a lot of the racers changing their dial ins because the cars will go a little faster. This is most notable in higher altitudes.
@@ProjectFarm Your welcome sir . I enjoy your videos.
@@petermoyes8766 And I always thought it was the isle of man's twisty roads!
Whenever I used water for this I put it in a very weak, cheap spray bottle, about 1 - 1 and 1/2 cups of water over about 15-30 mins (depending on size of motor) for that little mower I'd use about 1/2 a cup of water over about 10-15 mins, making sure to mist it, then again, now that I have money I tend to use seafoam, mostly used the water back when I was dirt poor, it worked, only costing around $1 for the spray bottle.
EDIT: BTW, love your videos, and love the way you handle your testing, as objective as possible while taking into account how the people in the comments recommend doing things.
Thanks for sharing.
You might wanna give 2+2 a try. I’ve used it direct in the tank (about 1/2 can to up to 2 gallons of gas, and direct spray it into the intake and it works well cleaning up carbon. I’d be interested to see how it shakes out compared to seafoam.
Thanks for the suggestion.
I would too. Been using SeaFoam for 13 years or better now and it works wonders.