Hello, thank you for this nice video! I have exact same engine and had water in oil this last September. On that day, I had a 300 lbs guest and they sat on the boat while ai parked the truck. Removed valve cover and noticed one broken valve spring with a bent push rod. The exhaust flapper was completely gone. Is it possible water came in from the exhaust back into the engine? I removed the head and gasket and spark plugs looked good.
I've watched several videos and read about this being the issue, but I do not understand how the water gets in to the oil from this rusted out exhaust elbow. Can you explain a bit better? Does it just seep into the cylinder and bypass the rings when sitting?
Normally the used cooling water goes through the jacket of the elbow joint, then up over the top of the elbow, so it can only be ejected in the exhaust. But when the cooling passage is rusted through, and/or the joint is breached by rusting out and/or a bad gasket, that cooling water leaks back down into the exhaust passages in the exhaust manifold (where it should not be), and yes, then leaks past the exhaust valve, into the cylinder, then past the ring and into the oil in the crankcase.
Are you pressure testing the cylinder at TDC to check for head gasket leaking into water jacket? Then the water system pressure test was to look for other escapes of water? How do you know if the cylinder pressure test is normal blow by vs head gasket (or valve?).
Yes TDC , if you pull the oil fill cap when you perform leak down you’ll be able to hear/feel how much is escaping into the crank case from blow by. And you can pull the cooling system hoses off to see if any air is coming from the head gasket. If you have normal blow by the pressure gauge should only show 15% air leakage or less. Anything above 25% will indicate a worn engine, head gasket failure or valve leaking. Hope this helps!
@@maineboatguy Awesome! Thanks for the advice. I'm going to look into modifying my compression tester for this job.. I think I can just put a tire valve on it in place of the release valve.
I have 4.3 L engine but I can’t seem to find any info on how to pressure test the cooling system, the engine oil is milky, not overheating or missing, don’t want to assume it’s a head gasket, do you have any tips on a 4.3L ? Thanks
Did you remove your exhaust elbows to inspect them? You can make block off plates to install on manifolds in place of the elbows then pressurized the cooling system through the water pickup hose coming from the transom assembly. Might want to try a leak down test as well. Did you remove spark plugs to check for water in the cylinders?
dosent t manifold and riser have 2b drained after each and every use,over time it will leak into exhaust manifold then past valve to piston and sump ,my 3ltr has flush lines 2 do this, its part of t procedure after use salt or fresh(manifold wont emty by itself)exhaust pressure stops a small leak when running but not when stopped,get all water out of system between use ( no leak)
Never heard of draining after every use in freshwater, always a good idea to flush after use in salt water. Cooling water should never be able to leak back into the engine from the exhaust if it is in good condition.
This does depend on how you use it also, engine should be used normally above idle for more than 45min at a time to burn off condensation, short runs are not good for burning condensation.
Good video. I have a Volvo Penta 3.0 doing the same thing (basically same engine).. It had like a miss in the engine mid power range when I got on it hard, but smooth at higher and lower RPM.. Got home and saw water in the oil.. Checked the plugs and saw signs of rust on the #4. I ran a compression check and 1-3 were at 170, #4 was closer to around 160-165, which should be good. I pulled the head, and everything looks fine to me. The #4 exhaust had a lot of rust and a little in one other exhaust passage. My manifold looks good, but the the riser elbow though looks almost as bad as the one you had in this video and definitely rotted to the point where it's mixing where it shouldn't.. I just can't see how the water gets in the oil, unless it's just from blow by? I hope that's all it was and not a crack in the block or anything like that. I just ordered everything and will know in about two weeks I guess!
VideosTellAll water gets in the oil when engine is off, the angle of the engine allows the water to run to the rear cylinder through the exhaust manifold and drains down past the piston rings into the oil pan.
@@Ericrp119tube Changing out the manifold and riser fixed it. Runs great! But one reason it runs great now is, I saw other videos telling people not to follow the manual for the valve adjustment. If I remember correctly, you run the rocker down until the push rod is clearly harder to turn (zero lash), the tighten 3/4 turn more.. Well everyone was recommending only a half turn, saying the valve would be too tight with the factory recommendation.. Well I backed mine off at least that much and it cranks better than when even new. I've always had to restart numerous times and always playing with the choke adjustment, but even when warm the idle was never great. Once I repaired everything, it cranked up right off the bat and never died once. Now even when hot, it cranks right up and idles great and no valve noise. I'm more than happy now.
I have milky oil, same motor. Gonna start looking into it today. Thanks for the video.
Very nice diagnosis
Great video. I was wondering if I can send a pic to help diagnose my issue?
Hello, thank you for this nice video! I have exact same engine and had water in oil this last September. On that day, I had a 300 lbs guest and they sat on the boat while ai parked the truck. Removed valve cover and noticed one broken valve spring with a bent push rod. The exhaust flapper was completely gone. Is it possible water came in from the exhaust back into the engine? I removed the head and gasket and spark plugs looked good.
That did not tell me nothing. ?? 😮 but but you learn more sometimes more in comment section lol thanks.😮
Well at least you’re learning something right? 🤔
I've watched several videos and read about this being the issue, but I do not understand how the water gets in to the oil from this rusted out exhaust elbow. Can you explain a bit better? Does it just seep into the cylinder and bypass the rings when sitting?
Normally the used cooling water goes through the jacket of the elbow joint, then up over the top of the elbow, so it can only be ejected in the exhaust. But when the cooling passage is rusted through, and/or the joint is breached by rusting out and/or a bad gasket, that cooling water leaks back down into the exhaust passages in the exhaust manifold (where it should not be), and yes, then leaks past the exhaust valve, into the cylinder, then past the ring and into the oil in the crankcase.
Are you pressure testing the cylinder at TDC to check for head gasket leaking into water jacket? Then the water system pressure test was to look for other escapes of water? How do you know if the cylinder pressure test is normal blow by vs head gasket (or valve?).
Yes TDC , if you pull the oil fill cap when you perform leak down you’ll be able to hear/feel how much is escaping into the crank case from blow by. And you can pull the cooling system hoses off to see if any air is coming from the head gasket. If you have normal blow by the pressure gauge should only show 15% air leakage or less. Anything above 25% will indicate a worn engine, head gasket failure or valve leaking.
Hope this helps!
@@maineboatguy Awesome! Thanks for the advice. I'm going to look into modifying my compression tester for this job.. I think I can just put a tire valve on it in place of the release valve.
I have 4.3 L engine but I can’t seem to find any info on how to pressure test the cooling system, the engine oil is milky, not overheating or missing, don’t want to assume it’s a head gasket, do you have any tips on a 4.3L ? Thanks
Did you remove your exhaust elbows to inspect them? You can make block off plates to install on manifolds in place of the elbows then pressurized the cooling system through the water pickup hose coming from the transom assembly. Might want to try a leak down test as well. Did you remove spark plugs to check for water in the cylinders?
@@maineboatguy I have not but thank you fir the suggestion, will try that tomorrow
dosent t manifold and riser have 2b drained after each and every use,over time it will leak into exhaust manifold then past valve to piston and sump ,my 3ltr has flush lines 2 do this, its part of t procedure after use salt or fresh(manifold wont emty by itself)exhaust pressure stops a small leak when running but not when stopped,get all water out of system between use ( no leak)
Never heard of draining after every use in freshwater, always a good idea to flush after use in salt water. Cooling water should never be able to leak back into the engine from the exhaust if it is in good condition.
I have the same problem I’ll guess. Milky oil. Change headgasket still water in oil. What else can I do?
Possibly a cracked block? Are you in an area where the engine could’ve froze over the winter? Is the boat new to you?
This does depend on how you use it also, engine should be used normally above idle for more than 45min at a time to burn off condensation, short runs are not good for burning condensation.
Good video. I have a Volvo Penta 3.0 doing the same thing (basically same engine).. It had like a miss in the engine mid power range when I got on it hard, but smooth at higher and lower RPM.. Got home and saw water in the oil.. Checked the plugs and saw signs of rust on the #4. I ran a compression check and 1-3 were at 170, #4 was closer to around 160-165, which should be good. I pulled the head, and everything looks fine to me. The #4 exhaust had a lot of rust and a little in one other exhaust passage. My manifold looks good, but the the riser elbow though looks almost as bad as the one you had in this video and definitely rotted to the point where it's mixing where it shouldn't.. I just can't see how the water gets in the oil, unless it's just from blow by? I hope that's all it was and not a crack in the block or anything like that. I just ordered everything and will know in about two weeks I guess!
VideosTellAll water gets in the oil when engine is off, the angle of the engine allows the water to run to the rear cylinder through the exhaust manifold and drains down past the piston rings into the oil pan.
@@maineboatguy Sounds good brother!
Maine Boat Guy can you call me I have questions 847609742000 ignore the las zeros thanks
@@videostellall did you ever find out the issue when you got all your parts?
@@Ericrp119tube Changing out the manifold and riser fixed it. Runs great! But one reason it runs great now is, I saw other videos telling people not to follow the manual for the valve adjustment. If I remember correctly, you run the rocker down until the push rod is clearly harder to turn (zero lash), the tighten 3/4 turn more.. Well everyone was recommending only a half turn, saying the valve would be too tight with the factory recommendation.. Well I backed mine off at least that much and it cranks better than when even new. I've always had to restart numerous times and always playing with the choke adjustment, but even when warm the idle was never great. Once I repaired everything, it cranked up right off the bat and never died once. Now even when hot, it cranks right up and idles great and no valve noise. I'm more than happy now.
oh no, milky oil? not good...
So was it the elbow?
Paul j Trout yes, I had to do a few oil changes to clear up the oil but he’s still running it!!
Dude you need to speak louder
Laptop, absolutely CRANKED and still can't hear him.