As always, the thoroughness of your methods is most impressive. When it is finished, the bus should be good for many more years of service. Although the home restorer does not have access to the corrosion proofing processes that manufacturers use today, the products available, and which you use, probably give superior protection as compared to the systems in use when your bus was built. I would accept that cars built today generally have very good corrosion resistance, although I think that commercial vehicles don't receive the same treatment as they are regarded as expendable over a shorter period and are made to sell at the most competitive level. Best wishes.
Hello Bradon, Wow geat work on the restoration from the cargofloor👍🏻🛠💪🏻.fits perfect but a lot of work.well.😓done on the autentick restoration🙏🏻.Greetings.Hubertus🇳🇴🇳🇱☮🙏🏻
Brandon! Do you have any videos from when you started your bus restoration? Or photos and just do a voice over? Where to start, what you were dealing with, your plan/considerations is what mostly interests me right now. Cheers! Love the rest of the channel mate, keep it up.
@@BrandonsBus Fair enough! Generally the idea is to start with the cargo floor if the chassis is good? My bus has been repaired decades ago in the worst possible ways, so i've lost the original metal, dimensions, and the factory "clues". Doors have been buggered with, openings have been buggered with - its a nightmare!
G'day, A great video. I'm picking up a lot of information from your channel. Q. Cleco's. Is there a size I should get. Or are they just one size. Q. How did the second part of the floor go with using the adhesive. So thanks for sharing ✌️ Peace from Melbourne Australia.
Great questions. For Clecos, the smaller sizes seems to work better for bodywork. I have the 1/8 size (copper color) and its good for sheet metal even some thicker stuff. I want to try the 3/32 (silver color) its the smallest they make. I trust the panel bond over the welds, its anti corrosive and waterproof, seems like a really good option especially on the underside of the bus. I know some people just use glue and no welds at all. I felt like a combo of both, (second part of the floor) was ideal. Thanks for watching!
@ 3:05 - The curve at the bottom of the vertical supports don't match the curve on the bottom of the long panel, right? I'm at the stage where I'm about to weld on repairs to those posts but want to make sure.
They very poorly match up, I used a shrinker/stretcher to make my own bottom supports. Check out my last video, around the 4:30 mark I show how I did this!
@@BrandonsBus Nice, yeah from what I can see, there's no way mine would line up, so I'm just making sure they're tucked in enough to allow the long panel to sit where it needs to be. I see also you're hiding your seam behind the long horizontal support, that's my plan too, but I'm undecided whether to remove the support, or leave it in place, which will hopefully minimize warping, although it will make it hard to treat the backside of the butt weld....
Awesome! Have to do this on our ‘68. Does the spot weld burn through the panel bond on the cross beams? Or do you clear those spots before putting down?
MIG welds and panel adhesive don't like each other. My goal was to only apply the glue to half and weld half so they wouldn't touch, but inevitably the glue got everywhere. Best to clear any glue that gets in the weld holes before welding!
I’m getting ready to do this on my 77. The PO put a patchwork floor on top of the original floor with screws and panel bond. Then I came in, not knowing any better, and put license plates on top of THAT! But hey I’m gonna do it right this time!
Brandon your attention to detail is quite impressive.taking shape,just takes awhile.great video.just keep on doing what you do best.be safe.👍👍👍😎😎😎
It sure does take a while with this much attention to detail! But it will be worth it in the end.
Very inspiring. Massive job that you seem to have a thoughtful plan for. I enjoy watching your progress. Thanks
Sometimes I have a plan, many times that plan fails and I have to restart 😅 but I enjoy the process and have the patience for it.
Absolutely a great refurbishing of that bus. It will last forever now... The right tools and accessories makes the difference. Thumbs Up!
Definitely need some specialty tools that make a huge difference with restoration work. Thanks for the comment!
Nice Brandon I’ll be watching this one a few times.
3m panel bond is a must!
thxs for sharing your camera work matches your content well...really enjoy your talents on such a excellent choice of a project
Thank you! A split bus was a dream of mine to restore since I was a kid.
Keep up the great work! Looking forward to the next video
Thank you for watching!
As always, the thoroughness of your methods is most impressive. When it is finished, the bus should be good for many more years of service. Although the home restorer does not have access to the corrosion proofing processes that manufacturers use today, the products available, and which you use, probably give superior protection as compared to the systems in use when your bus was built. I would accept that cars built today generally have very good corrosion resistance, although I think that commercial vehicles don't receive the same treatment as they are regarded as expendable over a shorter period and are made to sell at the most competitive level. Best wishes.
So true! In an age where everything is plastic and disposable, it’s nice to bring back something that lasts.
Magnificent. Teach me your ways!
I cant wait :) Let me hook up AC to the garage first.
Bravo next level resto 🙏👊🏽😎
Next week the BBT order from Belgium arrives to finish off the bodywork!
@@BrandonsBus nice, mine just came in for the single cab too ;)
Hello Bradon, Wow geat work on the restoration from the cargofloor👍🏻🛠💪🏻.fits perfect but a lot of work.well.😓done on the autentick restoration🙏🏻.Greetings.Hubertus🇳🇴🇳🇱☮🙏🏻
Grateful for every one of your comments Hubertus, you help keep my channel going. 🙏🏼
@@BrandonsBus My Pleasure Brandon,were are you Living ?? My place is Norway,Greetings Hubertus,
Trabalho perfeito lindo d+❤
Thank you!
Brandon! Do you have any videos from when you started your bus restoration? Or photos and just do a voice over? Where to start, what you were dealing with, your plan/considerations is what mostly interests me right now. Cheers! Love the rest of the channel mate, keep it up.
In the beginning I didn’t think of starting a YT channel so very little is recorded! Most of my early videos are all RUclips shorts.
@@BrandonsBus Fair enough! Generally the idea is to start with the cargo floor if the chassis is good? My bus has been repaired decades ago in the worst possible ways, so i've lost the original metal, dimensions, and the factory "clues". Doors have been buggered with, openings have been buggered with - its a nightmare!
Молодець
It did turn out nice! Thanks!
Чувак музыка ОГОНЬ!!!! dude music fire!!!
Therapeutic
garage sounds are the best kind of music...
Muito bom
Thank you!
👍👍👍
G'day,
A great video. I'm picking up a lot of information from your channel.
Q. Cleco's. Is there a size I should get. Or are they just one size.
Q. How did the second part of the floor go with using the adhesive.
So thanks for sharing ✌️ Peace from Melbourne Australia.
Great questions. For Clecos, the smaller sizes seems to work better for bodywork. I have the 1/8 size (copper color) and its good for sheet metal even some thicker stuff. I want to try the 3/32 (silver color) its the smallest they make.
I trust the panel bond over the welds, its anti corrosive and waterproof, seems like a really good option especially on the underside of the bus. I know some people just use glue and no welds at all. I felt like a combo of both, (second part of the floor) was ideal.
Thanks for watching!
@BrandonsBus
Thanks for the information man I really appreciate the advice. ✌️
@ 3:05 - The curve at the bottom of the vertical supports don't match the curve on the bottom of the long panel, right? I'm at the stage where I'm about to weld on repairs to those posts but want to make sure.
They very poorly match up, I used a shrinker/stretcher to make my own bottom supports. Check out my last video, around the 4:30 mark I show how I did this!
@@BrandonsBus Nice, yeah from what I can see, there's no way mine would line up, so I'm just making sure they're tucked in enough to allow the long panel to sit where it needs to be. I see also you're hiding your seam behind the long horizontal support, that's my plan too, but I'm undecided whether to remove the support, or leave it in place, which will hopefully minimize warping, although it will make it hard to treat the backside of the butt weld....
Awesome! Have to do this on our ‘68. Does the spot weld burn through the panel bond on the cross beams? Or do you clear those spots before putting down?
MIG welds and panel adhesive don't like each other. My goal was to only apply the glue to half and weld half so they wouldn't touch, but inevitably the glue got everywhere. Best to clear any glue that gets in the weld holes before welding!
I’m getting ready to do this on my 77. The PO put a patchwork floor on top of the original floor with screws and panel bond. Then I came in, not knowing any better, and put license plates on top of THAT! But hey I’m gonna do it right this time!
Nice work. 👍
Is there enough left of it to not make a new one/buy one?
Honestly, if I could go back I would have just bought new floor pans. They weren’t original but were in decent shape enough to work with.
@@BrandonsBus , I found anything that can simplify my life I'll buy if possible.
Did you use replacement floor panels?
They were not original but had been replaced by the previous owner. I cut them back out and restored them.