Carrier Bryant Payne Inducer Motor Replacement and Repair Tips (HC27CB119, JE1D013N, 320725)
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- Опубликовано: 16 июл 2024
- Amazon Link Inducer Motor - amzn.to/1WEQFtu
Amazon Link High Temp Silicone - amzn.to/2kFUEZx
Close Up of the Part - • Carrier Bryant JE1D013...
Instruction Manual - goo.gl/w7QyM9
Tips and how to instructions on Repairing and Replacing the Inducer Motor on my Comfort 92
This is a BRAND NEW Carrier/Bryant/Payne Draft Inducer Motor / Exhaust Motor Assembly. The Carrier/Bryant/Payne part # is 320725-756 (the 325270-761, 325269-702, & JE1D013N motor was used in this assembly as well as the 320725-757
An Upclose View of the Carrier Bryant JE1D013N Draft Inducer Motor Furnace AC Assembly Unit HC27CB119 319825-402
JE1D013N - Carrier Furnace Draft Inducer / Exhaust Vent Venter Motor - OEM Replacement
JE1D013N - Bryant Furnace Draft Inducer / Exhaust Vent Venter Motor - OEM Replacement
Carrier Draft Inducer Motor Kit 317292-753, A O Smith model JE1D014N, 115VAC, 3300 RPM, 60 HZ, .06 HP. This Kit contains Carrier motor HC27CB120, capacitor, moisture shield, slinger ring, mounting grommets, shaft seal, wiring harness and instructions. Replaces the following part numbers: JE1D013N, 325270-761, 325270761, 317292-752, 317292-751, HC27UE120, HC27UE121, HC27UE122, HC27UE123, HC66007, 317292753, JE1Do14n. This kit is used in Carrier draft inducer assembly 309868-755, 320725-756, 320725-757, and 320725-758. Carrier OEM parts 
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Amazon Link Inducer Motor - amzn.to/1WEQFtu
Amazon Link High Temp Silicone - amzn.to/2kFUEZx
Close Up of the Part - www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZHk5...
Instruction Manual - goo.gl/w7QyM9
Thanks - would edit more - less rants - but got the silicon information , instead of gasket information that’s what I came for , thanks …
Your instructions were spot on, I just changed inducer motor on my furnace!
...and your idea of putting tape marker on exhaust pipe was super useful.
THANK YOU!
Awesome! Nice work, nothing like the feeling of fixing it yourself. Glad this helped!
Fairly easy job. Easy furnace to work on. $250 fix instead of thousands.
Thanks, man! I followed your videos, bought the part ($300 including the silicon) and did the complete job in 40 minutes. I feel accomplished (and warm) and appreciate your sharing how you did the job. I had been intimidated when I'd previously opened up the furnace, but now I totally get it and it's done!
Sweet. Nothing like the feeling of doing it yourself.
Great video, thank you! I just used the high temp silicone to seal my near gasketless case. The panel underneath is rusted but missed the control board :D Thank goodness! I appreciate you taking the time to make this video!
local guys wanted to change me 1200 cash. Said part was hard to find and surprised at how much it costs. Bs. I found the part locally for 300. Installing it tonight. Thank you so much for these videos, I was really worried about messing something up. Looks pretty easy!
Lovely video, but for anyone reading, just note that the bottom left screw is set back in and is hard to see unless you're at eye level and maybe shining a flashlight on it. Also be very careful when you remove the the assembly to not inadvertently pull out any hoses that go into the furnace behind the assembly (ask me how I know). In any case, got the job done and am thankful for RUclips videos like this. Fwiw, I went through all of the free/cheap repairs before getting to replacing the assembly. Read the code chart and go through and make sure the collector isn't full, the condensation lines aren't clogged, and that the vent isn't clogged either. Then, if you're feeling confident it's not those issues, try the inducer capacitor and the pressure switch. Good luck to anyone looking down the barrel of a possibly expensive repair. One of these days when I get more confident I'll start filming my clumsy repairs and posting them myself!
Can someone tell me where the gray tube just above the mounting triangle (at 3:26 in the video) connects to?
@@robertleder4366 There are two grey hoses but only one is actually used. Which one depends if the exhaust needs to exit to the left out the cabinet or out to the right. If it's to the left then you need to mount the inducer assembly 'upside down' and then the other grey hose will be used instead. The unused one is simply capped off at its end and then routed so it won't obstruct the inducer motor assembly when you go to attach it.
I noticed the top right hand corner of the inducer motor assembly you did not put the 1 inch round rubber bulb on to seal the exhaust gas from entering your home. Get the old rubber bulb from the old unit and get it on there or you will have exhaust gas entering your home. Just a tip. The new replacement units do not come with a rubber bulb.
Great video. Thanks
Great Video Thank you.
Great vid doing this repair today
Just a heads up. My inducer motor was really loud and I was planning on replacing it for $230 online and my own time. I discovered that the cooling fan on the end of the motor shaft was loose. You can see a push nut at 00:14 in the video. Just push this on tight with your thumbs or a tool and the fan will not rattle around and create noise. Also make sure nothing is vibrating against the furnace or duct work like conduit or metal gas line. Isolate anything that might be rubbing against each other with some thin foam rubber. I did all this and mine has a gentle low pitched hum to it that is not loud at all. Kind of pleasant actually. So take some time to isolate vibrating things before you waste money on the new inducer that may not be any quieter.
thanks for your findings. but i cant find the push nut that you mentioned. even in the video at 0.14. could you please give more details? thanks in advance
@@katraju It's the shiney thing in the middle of the black motor. It's on the end of the motor shaft to hold the cooling fan. If you look at the video it's right almost dead center of your screen.
wOw. Thank you. Mine broke down and I'm going to replace it right now thanks to you. Will let you know how it went. Now I have to find a place where I can purchase the Inducer motor.
See links under the video on where to buy, good luck
I've got water making it's way into the intake pipe. I inspected the exhaust and I can see a small river. Inducer motor is working fine but I'm thinking that there must be a blockage. I can blow on the tubes and hear a bit of water in the inducer but not much. I'm pretty sure the problem is in the evacuation of water from the inducer. Sump works and it's not clogged. This is a very helpful video!
Do you think there is a blockage or simply that you didn't tighten the gasket around the PVC tight enough? From my recollection, when I removed the PVC, there was probably 1/2 a cup of water that came out, so I imagine that it typically collects a fair amount of water in there, until if "overflows" and gets discharged down the drain.
My home warranty covered 65% of the cost of replacement of inducer motor which is $325 out of pocket. My service provider charge was ridiculous amount of $940 including daignostic, parts and labor. I learned a lot. I was almost tempted to try do it myself but will let warranty take care this time. Overall, the cost of repairs are insanely high, for 45 mins labor they are charging over $500.
My error code is 42 (inducer out of speed range) and I have replaced this inducer once before. Like 10 years ago. The first time my filter had imploded during the summer while the A/C was on and the dust covered the underside of the A coil and forced the air to rush around the sides of the A coil and fired water all over the place. The water ran down the internals of the furnace and onto the control panel for the inducer and fried it. Now they have a convenient water shed run off tray to protect the control panel from water. lol.
Could there be a restriction in the inlet to the inducer??
Great video - thanks for sharing ! Is it possible to replace just the motor or is it necessary to replace the whole unit ? It seems as if the motor is mounted using three screws.
Snehal B I had the same thought before I started, I did some research and many have noted the removal of the motor was difficult and damages the unit, so I it was my labor that was costly not the replacement part and decided to get the entire unit
Great video. Wonderin is there similar motor kit for two stage Carrier/Bryant/Payne furnace inducer motors, e.g. JE1D015N instead of replacing the whole inducer motor assembly? The new OEM inducer assembly cost a lot and a kit would be great to repair/recycle the defected original motor which cause a lot of noise (possibly the inducer wheel hits to the housing, all plastic/ABS).
I spent days searching, and could not find a good price for the motor alone (usually individuals selling it on eBay). I don't believe they sell the motor by itself, likely because that's 90% of the entire cost of the inducer assembly.
Can someone tell me where the gray tube just above the mounting triangle (at 3:26 in the video) connects to?
I am working on this project right now and was wondering the same thing but I think I have it figured out. My tubing has a label on it that basically says the downflow tube, which can be seen in the bottom-left of the mounting triangle, needs to be attached to drainage, and the top-right tube, which you're referring to, should be capped. Mine has a small brass plug capping it. I think they are just two drainage tubes but only one is used and which one depends on the orientation of the unit when it is installed.
@@bertcertain6982 I figured that out too. Yes it just depends on the orientation of the inducer. I took many pictures when I took the old inducer out and was surprised to see the extra hose. My furnace had been running fine after the new inducer.
The yellow flexible gas line connecting both the furnace and water to the hard pipe is a gas code infraction!
Yes, it was there 15 yrs ago when regulations were loose
@@PoolarityChannel very loose I'd say. Safety infractions are not grandfathered though, they can still be infracted.
why did you changed it ? mine makes sound like rubbing plastic, I guess is the squirrel cage. there s way to change only this part?
Great video. I will be attempting this next week when my replacement is delivered. You said it took you 2 hours. From what you showed in the video it doesn't look difficult or that it would take that long. Was aligning it that much trouble or what took most of the time?
+Steve W make sure you replace that small cap in one of the corners, I didn't show it in the video. A small 1/2" rubber cap, on the opposite corner you don't use for the drainage tube. Aligning it took the most time, I wanted to do a "test alignment" and it turned out its not necessary, or you can't do a "test alignmment" without mounting the 4 screws anyway. So I wasted a lot of time on that. When I decided to mount it, it was fast and easy. That failed "test alignment" wasted 1 hour where as I could have just finished the entire project in 1 hour. Once you "remount" the 4 screws, it automatically aligns.
When you remove the draft inducer, there was a big rubber hose hanging above the triangle connection. Where does that hose connect to?
Did you find out what it connects to?
@@robertleder4366
not really
Any help
Great video. I’m pretty sure the motor is the issue with my unit as well. I’m a new homeowner so still figuring all this stuff out. When I try to run the AC, the unit hums but the motor doesn’t appear to be running (that front piece that sticks out doesn’t spin) and no air comes out of the vents. The outdoor compressor unit seems to be working fine. Would you agree it sounds like the motor is the issue? I can have a pro come out but I’d prefer to avoid it if I can
I think the pro would cost you just as much as the motor itself. And even pro's may only be guessing using the process of elimination, and they will charge you even if they are wrong.
@@PoolarityChannel If the motor doesn't spin freely when it's turned off then it's time to replace either motor alone or the inducer assembly with a new motor. Either way make sure the replacement motor has the same specs and Molex connector.
Im wondering why orange label hose is disconnected. The back end is not attached to anything. Been having trouble starting inducer. Trys to start every 2 min. It spins and then stops while the blower is running non stop.
Does anyone know where to get the cap on the top right mentioned at the beginning of the video? My home inspector made a big deal about it being missing on my furnace.
No, but electrical tape will work well
I was wondering if you had trouble pulling the tubing out of the exhaust of the inducer. I have 2" PVC like yours. It's so rigid I don't think I would be able to pull it out without breaking the PVC where it goes up and outside.
Didn't have any trouble, maybe try wd40?
can you help me is this PN HC27CB118 (in my Bryant Furnace motor i believe it is 320725-755 inducer motor kit) . i cannot find anything with that PN. Your video shows PN HC27CB119. Can i use the PN HC27CB119 in my unit. i don't see my PN in any website to purchase like amazon
My inducer motor started making squeaky noise when starting running and it goes away. Should I replace it? Instead of replacing entire assembly, can I replace just the motor only? How do I know which part number to buy? On the motor, there is a label, with ser: and mod:, but my furnace is 22 years old so when I do a search, nothing comes up.
how do you disconnect the white plastic electric connector from board to inducer?
Squeeze the two side clips simultaneously and while squeezing pull apart. You may need to wiggle the connectors while pulling as well.
My friend's Carrier 58MCB is making that plastic scraping noise from the squirrel cage just inside from where the motor sits. I tried fooling around with the 3 motor mount screws. Pushing in on the bottom one silenced it so I put some washers in there. He wants to try and get some new screws and bushings at the Plumb Supply. So you say you replaced the whole thing which might be necessary in our case. It looks just like yours but this is the Blower Motor isn't it? The squirrel cage inside forces the house return air through the heat exchanger right? That's what is there when you pull it out right? I hope we don't have to cause he has a water heater right in front of the unit. Just the motor would be cheaper and there should be a set screw to loosen. And the old furnaces had an inducer motor up top. So how can this be the inducer motor?
ruclips.net/video/ggdTnjcSdAs/видео.html
Not sure what your issue was, but mine sounds terrible. I thought it was motor bearings but took motor out and seems to run fine
do we need to wait to cure the RTV or we can turn the furnace on after installation
I didn't wait, I turned it on, and its been fine basically for 2 yrs now.
Thank you very much
at 3:27, what is that hose connected to, if anything? I am working on this project and i don't remember disconecting this hose. Is it just freely sitting there once the induction unit is back in place? I don't see anywhere it could have came from on the unit
As far as I remember, nothing. It connects to nothing.
Great video, you saved me over $600.00.
what did the replacement inducer assembly wind up costing you? I need to do the same thing on mine and was curious what the material cost is....thanks
It cost roughly $320 to $335 for the Parts, I used the following (I used regular GE silicone and it worked fine, the below is high temp RTV which is what they recommend in the instructions)
1) Amazon Link Inducer Motor - amzn.to/1WEQFtu
2) Amazon Link High Temp Silicone - amzn.to/2kFUEZx
thanks for taking the time to get back so quickly really appreciate it and the great vid
How did you know it was the issue? Hearing isn't working. The motor isn't doing. However there is no light error fur me to troubleshoot
The rattling can somewhat be located there, and I believe that's the only moving part
@@PoolarityChannel I mean heating isn't working on my furnace. How do I know the issue is the motor? It isn't spinning when the blower turns on.
the inducer fan assembly comes apart ,the screws look the same as the assembly mountings but they are shorter ,no glue required, if your motor is still ok, you can just replace the fan , it is a lot cheaper than the whole assembly , you can replace just the motor too if it is the source of the noises you hear ,it should turn every smoothly , and not smell burnt .
How does it come apart? is it easy and does the wheel come off? the full assembly is super expensive
@@Jon-hx7pe It is not that difficult. I've done once and if I remember correctly, just remove extensive silicone around the housing (was't sure if it's necessity but I've done it anyway), remove the screws(5-6?) and slightly pull the housing parts from any corner (again, no specific corner or part, you feel it may come off easily). The housing has 5 or 6 clips like parts but I think they are just for alignment, not for to hold the housing closed. You have almost nothing to lose as housing is made of plastic (ABS?) and probably will end up buying the whole motor assembly unless it was a broken/warped wheel issue or housing itself. Good luck.
thanks. the entire part was replaced because the motor is unavailable on its own and no motor repair shop was willing to put in new bearings for a reasonable price.
Carrier is a horrible company - making oem parts super expensive and for years denying their secondaries are defective. It's such a shame because these 58 series condensing furnaces are otherwise really solid.
I'm curious where you would get just the squirrel cage ? I have 3 of these furnaces and 1 broke and another is going. Both fan motors a fine.
@@helenachase5627 only for carriers. not the squirrel cage cabinet, just the internal wheel. here's an example: www.amazon.ca/Carrier-Bryant-319828-701-Inducer-Blower/dp/B00152N2IY/ref=asc_df_B00152N2IY/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292938317187&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5292505214736521091&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000560&hvtargid=pla-568407446093&psc=1
if your furnace is a 58 series 90%+ carrier the secondary needs to be checked before buying parts - they corrode and plug, there was a class action suit against carrier.
my inducer motor hums and won't turn without a bump, I'm thinking that its brushes are going bad ,and the unit should be replaced (it's 11 years old and was installed when the house was built). Did you/anyone have anything similar and this fixed it?
The only thing I can describe for my situation, the Inducer sounded like a loud Dryer cycle with clothes in it, a loud Rattling noise, mine was also 11 yrs. I bit the bullet because the part was $280 and I figured it would cost at least double for a person to turn a few screws to fix it, even if it turned out not to be the issue. Because that happens often where you pay to fix one thing, and it wasn't the problem, well they still make you pay, and it didn't solve the problem. So I figured, I'd just go ahead and change the inducer to see for myself. And if after that it was somehting beyond my knowledge I would have to pay for that expertise.
I'm also of the same mind, YOLO, worse come to worst; I'll pay someone to try something else at 3x the price. I just know that technicians aren't cheap and the companies mark up the parts from some of the same suppliers so why not give it a shot on my own? Thank you for the expeditious response.
Don't forget to cover the Hole at the top left corner of the inducer, basically at the opposite end of where you installed the hose. A viewer pointed that out after 2 months, so nothing bad happened, I read that there isn't even much Carbon Monoxide that comes from these things, so perhaps it was overblown, but better to be safe.
I know this is a year old, but did you ever check the capacitor, the little square thing at the top right with brown wires?
I had to send my unit out to replace the bearings, i am confused and need some help. The one hose that you had taped to the back of the unit where did that plug into. It states on the sticker upflow or horizontal Left
Try to pause the video at 2 sec to 5 secs and take a look. Its still hard to tell, but it gives you a wider angle of the entire assembly.
Outstanding vid! Thanks. Quick question - about how much did your replacement inducer cost. I've been quoted $700. Not sure if this a good or high number
$325 from Amazon link above in description area. Takes a out 1 hour to install, for a DIY normal person whose never done it before
+Donmr here's the price, click on the Amazon Link Inducer Motor for amzn.to/1WEQFtu
If you have a two-stage or variable speed furnace it'll be more expensive as it'll need a different inducer motor. Perhaps consider buying a working one used.
you do know that a furnace or water heater should not be connected with flex connectors as a final gas connection! It is not code, the vibrations can cause them to leak and or break. Just to let you know!
Good to know. That's the original flex connection when I bought the Condo, the Code has changed since, 10 years ago. When did that building code change?