Same issue down great video, right down to the smell you described of the fan not kicking on because the bad capacitor except it went bad for me in the winter and came home to a freezing house! Thank you for saving me hundreds on a service call for what ended up being just a $8 part !! Idk why there's thumbs down on this video, must be from the service people viewing hahaha
Your comment at the end - I hope this helps someone. Dude, you are my HERO! I had the burnt plastic smell, then the furnace wasn't working. It was about 2 weeks after I turned it on for the winter. So if I'd had someone come out to service it, this wouldn't have been picked up, and I would have gone nuts. The fan would turn a little, as a matter of fact the purge function (blowing before heating) was fine, but when the furnace lit, there wasn't enough fan movement to blow air into the house, but the fan was still moving. Subsequently, the furnace overheated and shut down after a couple minutes. I have a Carrier, gave me the 13 and 33 codes (and the 12, just to confuse me.) Last time that happened, it was a clogged filter. Took the entire fan assembly out, cleaned off all the dust (20 years worth), back in but no luck. Until I found your video. Out comes the capacitor, tested with the help of a neighbour, not working. Bought a new one for $14 (thanks Amre Supply in Richmond, BC!), reassembled everything and voila! Warm again. Helpful? Very much so. Thought I'd be replacing a motor for $00's, but thanks to you, I'm not broke. Moral of the story? The fan may still turn, just not enough. Check the capacitor before going too far. Thanks so much for your video!
I'm glad it helped! It sounds like in your case it may have been a run capacitor - but a bad cap is a bad cap :) Hopefully YOUR comments will help someone as well :)
Thanks man! I Knew the HVAC Tech was full of it. Told this very nice family the blower motor was toast. I had it running unaided the night before! I w we as inspecting for sabotage and seeing nothing obvious, tried to power it up. Humming motor not spinning! WTH did he do?? Went upstairs and fan was switched ON- we need heat. Switched to auto and upped the thermostat and Lo! She kicked on! And shut down three min later as has been happening. Still think I’ve got a clogged up heat exchanger, but a $300 part + labor it is Not. Thx for your help!
I have the same old Carrier furnace and I change the control board a few years ago. Today, around a minute after the fire comes on, the blower give a humming sound and not spinning. Then about 1 minute later, the fire shuts off. I am going to change the CAP and hope it fix it. Thanks for the video.
This is EXACTLY what is happening with mine right now. I pulled the blower out last night and found it was clogged up with filter fibers and other crap that should have been removed when I had the ducts cleaned 20 years ago. The motor now over heats. I have ordered a new motor and a new cap. I will return the motor if the new cap fixes it.
Last year I had that same problem, the unit was humming and the motor would not spin. I replaced the capacitor and it worked again. Now I am having the same problem and what I do while I get the new capacitor is manually spin clockwise the motor and works for a day sometimes a week. I will let you know if the new capacitor works again. Thank’s for you video.
I have the same exact furnace, before I tear it apart, I'm wondering which capacitor you used.. never mind continued watching and got it. Amazon had it. :)
Had a technician come to service my furnace yesterday. Dude showed me a very clean looking capacitor and said it was reading 8.4 it will cost us $248. My computer was in front of me when he was talking, so I googled what a capacitor is. That’s when I saw that they only cost $3 to $7.99. I respectfully declined his upselling. I’ll be changing it myself
GEEZ , the guy helping me at AC place their place not open today or tomorrow AND I need to ask him again something . He said on blower motor if I disconect the cool terminal wire on circuit board and connect the bottom black wire to cool terminal that ( this is what I'm not sure what he said and needed to talk to him ) if it works ( or doesn't ) that means board is bad NOT the motor ?? OR is it the other way around ?? And yes replaced capacitor . Still the same barely running the blower not full speed and shuts down after a while with new capacitor
Looks like I have the same furnace, but my capacitor is HC91CA007D. When I look it up it says 7.5uF but your model is 10uF. My model number is : Carrier Furnace Model 58PAV090-18114. I will buy a 7.5uF since that is what is already installed.
Great video!! I'm currently working on my furnace because it's not working obviously. So the issue is that the furnace will come on for about 2-3 minutes than shuts off. So I hear it buzzing, so turn the little fan a few times until it goes on its own and stops again. I was talking a guy that works at a parts place and he said more than likely my board is bad and should think about replacing it. So after seeing your video I'm rethinking that. Do you have any Idea?
When you say "the little fan" - are you talking about the blower cage or something else? If your blower motor is starting on it's own and running, that's a little different problem than I was seeing. If the blower motor is going from running to stopping on it's own and then just sitting there humming, and with a nudge you can get it going again, it *could* be the capacitor, but that sounds like something with the motor (really dirty). How easily does the motor turn with the power off? You should be able to give it a nudge and it should coast - it should be really easy to spin the motor. You could always replace the capacitor and see if that fixes things. If it doesn't, it's not a significant loss as you would then have a replacement capacitor on hand - *and* you would know it's NOT the capacitor.
@@chillinator Just now seeing your comment. Changed out the board and still doing the same thing. So I'm turning the fan blade trying to make that spin.
Hmmm ... I'm no expert, but that sounds more like a blower motor problem - if you have replaced the board and the capacitor and still have the issue, it might be time to pull that motor out and check it. If there is a lot of oil leakage, dust buildup, or the cage is wobbly (indicating possible worn bearings) the motor might need to be replaced. The blower isn't terribly hard to remove - if you have the room to get to it. There is also the possibility that the motor might just need brushes, but that's conjecture on my part (I'm not even sure it has brushes).
my fan runs but sounds like its sputtering and humming. house is not cooling well and register air flow seems weak. no freezing, coil is clean, condensor fins cleans and new motor, refridgerant fine, and ducts are fine... can a bad capacitor cause weak air flow??
I can't say for sure, but if it were me, I'd first shut off everything, open the access to the motor and see if the blower cage/motor is spinning freely, see if the motor is dragging or clunking, and check the cage to see if it's dirty/clogged. You may have a motor problem - i.e. dead fields on your rotor or worn-out brushes or bushings. You could *try* replacing the capacitor before digging into the motor, but I'd be surprised if this fixes it as the starter capacitor is only used - to my admittedly limited knowledge - to give an initial push to get everything moving and isn't used in the constant running phase. Motor swaps aren't that difficult - assuming you have the clearance to get them out. Do a search on youtube for motor replacements - there are several videos on removal and cleaning as well. Good luck - it's a bad time of year to have A/C issues ...
chillinator thanks for the in depth reply. i actually have an extra ac motor in my garage. a buddy of mine is gonna help me this weekend to try the capacitor too. thanks again for the info and ill let you know how it goes. the weird thing is that there is a big build up of super cold air when i open the ac up. seems like its building up in the space from the return vent to the filter. so weird... i set it to 78 and its only getting it down to 82 during the day w temp at 100 outside in s texas
@@texastaurus9271 One other thing that I've seen happen with similar symptoms was seeing the A/C core (right above the blower in the furnace) freeze solid - so that very little air was getting through it. The A/C was running full-blast but the house wasn't getting any cooler. If, by some chance, your A/C was running a LOT before this happened, it's possible that the internal core is frozen (iced up, actually) - but letting it set with the system off for several hours usually "fixes" the problem. Again, good luck :)
Yes, basically. I used a small needle-nosed pliers to grab hold of the connector so as not to damage the wire. They may be snug, but a little wiggling and a gentle tug will pull them loose. Then just hold the new capacitor in the same orientation and transfer the wires to the same connectors on the new capacitor.
Thanks for sharing this. Hoping for some advice.. I have an almost identical issue with one difference. The blower will work for a little while then it stops. The AC unit outside is functioning fine during this time. When it's not blowing and I engage the safety switch on the unit I hear a humming noise but nothing happens. I find if I leave it off for a while (an hour or so) then turn it back on again it will start blowing again. But then a short while later it cuts out once again. Does this seem like it might be a capacitor issue?
Hmmm ... *could* be. Next time it stops, power down the unit, reach in and get the fan moving, and while it's moving power it back on (with your hands out of the way, of course). If the blower spins up, then it could be a capacitor issue - you might need to check if you have a run capacitor as well as a start capacitor. If the blower is starting on it's own, then it might not be the capacitor. It could be an overheating issue. It could be that when you're shutting it down and letting it sit for a while, the motor is cooling enough to run again, but when it starts up it's fighting against possible friction, heating up quickly, and then seizing/stopping. Next time the motor stops running and you hear the humming, try first *shutting off the power* to the unit, then reach in and see if you can turn the fan by hand - or use a stick if that makes you nervous. If the fan doesn't spin really freely (you should be able to give it a nudge and it should spin on it's own), it's possibly a motor/bearing issue. The motor could just be really gunked up, or, the bearings (bushings) might have lost their lubrication. There are videos online about how to remove the blower and clean the motor/cage assembly if you think that might be the issue. Disclaimer: I'm not a "professional" repairman, so take these suggestions with a grain of salt - and always, Safety First :) Good luck :)
@@chillinator I was able to move the fan by hand, but it certainly didn't start spinning freely. It moved but was a little stiff. So you might be right about the motor/bearing issue. I had it working for a few hours yesterday without issue but it didn't feel like it was blowing very hard. So perhaps you are right and it might just need some cleaning/lubrication. Thanks very much for your input.
AFTER CHANGE THE NEW CAPACITOR MY BLOWER NOT WORKING I REMOVE THE HIGH SPEED BLACK WIRE CONNETED TO 120 VOLT TO SAFETY SWITCH THE BLOWER WORK WHAT IS NEXT
Im cursing out Carrier. I had an outside AC unit that fried. So Im at window AC...because Im not paying 10k for replacement parts. NOW, my furnace crapped out on me. Its throwing code 33. Ok, replaced the filter, but the fan is the issue. Either the squirrel cage or the motor is dying. Its making some horrible screatching sounds. Lube didnt do it, and I tried straightening it as much as I could. Still squeals. How come even a crappy Ford Pinto still has a decent fan, centered, no squeaks but a fairly new Carrier (which is just like yours) cant... Why is this company not out of business with this kind of poor quality?
Sounds like it might be the bushings in the motor. Does the cage spin freely when it's powered off? If it is the motor, they're not terribly expensive and you should be able to pick one up at Grainger or possibly on eBay. If I remember correctly, I think I saw a couple of videos on how to check/clean/replace a motor here on youtube. And yes, it is horribly frustrating that something as expensive (yet as primitive) as an A/C or Furnace has such a short lifespan. They make them to break down - that's the only logical conclusion. Conversely, my Dad had a "water furnace" on a house he bought in rural Illinois. It used ground water to pre-heat/pre-cool air and was incredibly cheap to operate. When the furnace was about 30 years old, it stopped working. My Dad had to search high and low to find someone to come look at it - and finally found a retired repairman who agreed to come look at it. When he showed up, he had a small box (about 2" square) and a screwdriver. My Dad asked him where his tools were, and he said he didn't need them as this (indicating the box) was the only thing that ever went wrong with those water furnaces. The part plus the repair cost about $30.
@@chillinator Yeah, I know the feeling. The days of the simple efficient machines is over. And it wouldnt be so annoying if you didnt have all the "experts" saying how newer things are way more this or that, but fail to mention how being thrown out after 5 years enters any of their calculations. Is the motor with bearings of bushings? That explains it a bit. I did manage to eliminate all the sounds. Its been quiet for the last 24 hours (and running duh lol, kind of pointless if its silent and off). I did WD40 but thats a very temporary measure. I wasnt going to waste my good grease on figuruing it IFs. I banged on the fan a bit to get it more straight, and knock on wood. I still think a replacement is due, but I may gut the old motor and replace it with something else, and just use the furnaces hot to power a relay that spins...I dont know. I have a three phase laying around. I have to see what motors I have that like heat better.
Huge thank you for making this video. Repaired my unit for $10.86.
Same issue down great video, right down to the smell you described of the fan not kicking on because the bad capacitor except it went bad for me in the winter and came home to a freezing house! Thank you for saving me hundreds on a service call for what ended up being just a $8 part !! Idk why there's thumbs down on this video, must be from the service people viewing hahaha
Your comment at the end - I hope this helps someone. Dude, you are my HERO!
I had the burnt plastic smell, then the furnace wasn't working. It was about 2 weeks after I turned it on for the winter. So if I'd had someone come out to service it, this wouldn't have been picked up, and I would have gone nuts.
The fan would turn a little, as a matter of fact the purge function (blowing before heating) was fine, but when the furnace lit, there wasn't enough fan movement to blow air into the house, but the fan was still moving. Subsequently, the furnace overheated and shut down after a couple minutes. I have a Carrier, gave me the 13 and 33 codes (and the 12, just to confuse me.) Last time that happened, it was a clogged filter.
Took the entire fan assembly out, cleaned off all the dust (20 years worth), back in but no luck. Until I found your video. Out comes the capacitor, tested with the help of a neighbour, not working. Bought a new one for $14 (thanks Amre Supply in Richmond, BC!), reassembled everything and voila! Warm again.
Helpful? Very much so. Thought I'd be replacing a motor for $00's, but thanks to you, I'm not broke.
Moral of the story? The fan may still turn, just not enough. Check the capacitor before going too far.
Thanks so much for your video!
I'm glad it helped! It sounds like in your case it may have been a run capacitor - but a bad cap is a bad cap :) Hopefully YOUR comments will help someone as well :)
Great clear video, my carrier just did same thing right now 3 am but on heat setting.
Exactly the video I was looking for (thank you for showing the part where you lower the panel out of the way)
Thanks man! I Knew the HVAC Tech was full of it. Told this very nice family the blower motor was toast. I had it running unaided the night before! I w we as inspecting for sabotage and seeing nothing obvious, tried to power it up. Humming motor not spinning! WTH did he do?? Went upstairs and fan was switched ON- we need heat. Switched to auto and upped the thermostat and Lo! She kicked on! And shut down three min later as has been happening. Still think I’ve got a clogged up heat exchanger, but a $300 part + labor it is Not. Thx for your help!
I have the same old Carrier furnace and I change the control board a few years ago. Today, around a minute after the fire comes on, the blower give a humming sound and not spinning. Then about 1 minute later, the fire shuts off. I am going to change the CAP and hope it fix it. Thanks for the video.
Great Video, takes it step by step
Thank you!! Dealing with a similar issue and your video definitely helped me resolve it. Cheers🎉!
This is EXACTLY what is happening with mine right now. I pulled the blower out last night and found it was clogged up with filter fibers and other crap that should have been removed when I had the ducts cleaned 20 years ago. The motor now over heats. I have ordered a new motor and a new cap. I will return the motor if the new cap fixes it.
Last year I had that same problem, the unit was humming and the motor would not spin. I replaced the capacitor and it worked again. Now I am having the same problem and what I do while I get the new capacitor is manually spin clockwise the motor and works for a day sometimes a week. I will let you know if the new capacitor works again. Thank’s for you video.
Very useful video for me, I have exactly the same carrier blower, THANKS!!
I have the same exact furnace, before I tear it apart, I'm wondering which capacitor you used.. never mind continued watching and got it. Amazon had it. :)
Mines doing the same thing.
Thanks for the video!
Had a technician come to service my furnace yesterday. Dude showed me a very clean looking capacitor and said it was reading 8.4 it will cost us $248. My computer was in front of me when he was talking, so I googled what a capacitor is. That’s when I saw that they only cost $3 to $7.99.
I respectfully declined his upselling. I’ll be changing it myself
Wow so cool.good for you. You’re the best. Good job
How to fixed furnace carrier compressor stuck I bought year 2002. Thanks
GEEZ , the guy helping me at AC place their place not open today or tomorrow AND I need to ask him again something . He said on blower motor if I disconect the cool terminal wire on circuit board and connect the bottom black wire to cool terminal that ( this is what I'm not sure what he said and needed to talk to him ) if it works ( or doesn't ) that means board is bad NOT the motor ?? OR is it the other way around ?? And yes replaced capacitor . Still the same barely running the blower not full speed and shuts down after a while with new capacitor
Looks like I have the same furnace, but my capacitor is HC91CA007D. When I look it up it says 7.5uF but your model is 10uF. My model number is :
Carrier Furnace Model 58PAV090-18114. I will buy a 7.5uF since that is what is already installed.
That's probably the best way to approach it. If it was working with the 7.5uf, I'd replace it with the same.
@@chillinatorl
thanks very informative. i have to do mine
gpresta2p
yes my board screws were a pain too.
Great video!! I'm currently working on my furnace because it's not working obviously. So the issue is that the furnace will come on for about 2-3 minutes than shuts off. So I hear it buzzing, so turn the little fan a few times until it goes on its own and stops again. I was talking a guy that works at a parts place and he said more than likely my board is bad and should think about replacing it. So after seeing your video I'm rethinking that. Do you have any Idea?
When you say "the little fan" - are you talking about the blower cage or something else?
If your blower motor is starting on it's own and running, that's a little different problem than I was seeing. If the blower motor is going from running to stopping on it's own and then just sitting there humming, and with a nudge you can get it going again, it *could* be the capacitor, but that sounds like something with the motor (really dirty). How easily does the motor turn with the power off? You should be able to give it a nudge and it should coast - it should be really easy to spin the motor.
You could always replace the capacitor and see if that fixes things. If it doesn't, it's not a significant loss as you would then have a replacement capacitor on hand - *and* you would know it's NOT the capacitor.
@@chillinator Just now seeing your comment. Changed out the board and still doing the same thing. So I'm turning the fan blade trying to make that spin.
Hmmm ... I'm no expert, but that sounds more like a blower motor problem - if you have replaced the board and the capacitor and still have the issue, it might be time to pull that motor out and check it. If there is a lot of oil leakage, dust buildup, or the cage is wobbly (indicating possible worn bearings) the motor might need to be replaced. The blower isn't terribly hard to remove - if you have the room to get to it.
There is also the possibility that the motor might just need brushes, but that's conjecture on my part (I'm not even sure it has brushes).
my fan runs but sounds like its sputtering and humming. house is not cooling well and register air flow seems weak. no freezing, coil is clean, condensor fins cleans and new motor, refridgerant fine, and ducts are fine... can a bad capacitor cause weak air flow??
I can't say for sure, but if it were me, I'd first shut off everything, open the access to the motor and see if the blower cage/motor is spinning freely, see if the motor is dragging or clunking, and check the cage to see if it's dirty/clogged. You may have a motor problem - i.e. dead fields on your rotor or worn-out brushes or bushings. You could *try* replacing the capacitor before digging into the motor, but I'd be surprised if this fixes it as the starter capacitor is only used - to my admittedly limited knowledge - to give an initial push to get everything moving and isn't used in the constant running phase. Motor swaps aren't that difficult - assuming you have the clearance to get them out. Do a search on youtube for motor replacements - there are several videos on removal and cleaning as well. Good luck - it's a bad time of year to have A/C issues ...
chillinator thanks for the in depth reply. i actually have an extra ac motor in my garage. a buddy of mine is gonna help me this weekend to try the capacitor too. thanks again for the info and ill let you know how it goes. the weird thing is that there is a big build up of super cold air when i open the ac up. seems like its building up in the space from the return vent to the filter. so weird... i set it to 78 and its only getting it down to 82 during the day w temp at 100 outside in s texas
@@texastaurus9271 One other thing that I've seen happen with similar symptoms was seeing the A/C core (right above the blower in the furnace) freeze solid - so that very little air was getting through it. The A/C was running full-blast but the house wasn't getting any cooler. If, by some chance, your A/C was running a LOT before this happened, it's possible that the internal core is frozen (iced up, actually) - but letting it set with the system off for several hours usually "fixes" the problem. Again, good luck :)
chillinator blower handler was super dooper dirty.. had an new extra motor laying around and tech threw it in. blowing like a champ and cooling again
@@texastaurus9271 That's awesome! Thanks for the follow-up. Feels good to fix your own stuff :)
how did you remove the wires from the capacitor? you just yank them?
Yes, basically. I used a small needle-nosed pliers to grab hold of the connector so as not to damage the wire. They may be snug, but a little wiggling and a gentle tug will pull them loose. Then just hold the new capacitor in the same orientation and transfer the wires to the same connectors on the new capacitor.
Thanks for sharing this. Hoping for some advice.. I have an almost identical issue with one difference.
The blower will work for a little while then it stops. The AC unit outside is functioning fine
during this time.
When it's not blowing and I engage the safety switch on the unit I hear a humming noise but nothing
happens.
I find if I leave it off for a while (an hour or so) then turn it back on again it will start blowing
again. But then a short while later it cuts out once again.
Does this seem like it might be a capacitor issue?
Hmmm ... *could* be. Next time it stops, power down the unit, reach in and get the fan moving, and while it's moving power it back on (with your hands out of the way, of course). If the blower spins up, then it could be a capacitor issue - you might need to check if you have a run capacitor as well as a start capacitor.
If the blower is starting on it's own, then it might not be the capacitor. It could be an overheating issue. It could be that when you're shutting it down and letting it sit for a while, the motor is cooling enough to run again, but when it starts up it's fighting against possible friction, heating up quickly, and then seizing/stopping.
Next time the motor stops running and you hear the humming, try first *shutting off the power* to the unit, then reach in and see if you can turn the fan by hand - or use a stick if that makes you nervous. If the fan doesn't spin really freely (you should be able to give it a nudge and it should spin on it's own), it's possibly a motor/bearing issue. The motor could just be really gunked up, or, the bearings (bushings) might have lost their lubrication.
There are videos online about how to remove the blower and clean the motor/cage assembly if you think that might be the issue.
Disclaimer: I'm not a "professional" repairman, so take these suggestions with a grain of salt - and always, Safety First :)
Good luck :)
@@chillinator I was able to move the fan by hand, but it certainly didn't start spinning freely. It moved but was a little stiff. So you might be right about the motor/bearing issue. I had it working for a few hours yesterday without issue but it didn't feel like it was blowing very hard. So perhaps you are right and it might just need some cleaning/lubrication. Thanks very much for your input.
AFTER CHANGE THE NEW CAPACITOR MY BLOWER NOT WORKING I REMOVE THE HIGH SPEED BLACK WIRE CONNETED TO 120 VOLT TO SAFETY SWITCH THE BLOWER WORK WHAT IS NEXT
Victor Alecchi sound like circuit board need replacement where delay is housed
Did u ever find out what it was?
WILL BE LONG TIME, BEFORE YOU HAVE TO REPLACE.
Im cursing out Carrier. I had an outside AC unit that fried. So Im at window AC...because Im not paying 10k for replacement parts. NOW, my furnace crapped out on me. Its throwing code 33. Ok, replaced the filter, but the fan is the issue. Either the squirrel cage or the motor is dying. Its making some horrible screatching sounds. Lube didnt do it, and I tried straightening it as much as I could. Still squeals. How come even a crappy Ford Pinto still has a decent fan, centered, no squeaks but a fairly new Carrier (which is just like yours) cant...
Why is this company not out of business with this kind of poor quality?
Sounds like it might be the bushings in the motor. Does the cage spin freely when it's powered off? If it is the motor, they're not terribly expensive and you should be able to pick one up at Grainger or possibly on eBay. If I remember correctly, I think I saw a couple of videos on how to check/clean/replace a motor here on youtube.
And yes, it is horribly frustrating that something as expensive (yet as primitive) as an A/C or Furnace has such a short lifespan. They make them to break down - that's the only logical conclusion.
Conversely, my Dad had a "water furnace" on a house he bought in rural Illinois. It used ground water to pre-heat/pre-cool air and was incredibly cheap to operate. When the furnace was about 30 years old, it stopped working. My Dad had to search high and low to find someone to come look at it - and finally found a retired repairman who agreed to come look at it. When he showed up, he had a small box (about 2" square) and a screwdriver. My Dad asked him where his tools were, and he said he didn't need them as this (indicating the box) was the only thing that ever went wrong with those water furnaces. The part plus the repair cost about $30.
@@chillinator Yeah, I know the feeling. The days of the simple efficient machines is over. And it wouldnt be so annoying if you didnt have all the "experts" saying how newer things are way more this or that, but fail to mention how being thrown out after 5 years enters any of their calculations. Is the motor with bearings of bushings? That explains it a bit. I did manage to eliminate all the sounds. Its been quiet for the last 24 hours (and running duh lol, kind of pointless if its silent and off). I did WD40 but thats a very temporary measure. I wasnt going to waste my good grease on figuruing it IFs. I banged on the fan a bit to get it more straight, and knock on wood. I still think a replacement is due, but I may gut the old motor and replace it with something else, and just use the furnaces hot to power a relay that spins...I dont know. I have a three phase laying around. I have to see what motors I have that like heat better.
But now capacitors is inside in blower motor in carrier