Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Here is a link to the Genteq ECM TecMate Pro-amzn.to/2DmL6wa Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL469 Multimeter- amzn.to/2jw4ePJ Here is a link for the Supco Magnet Jumpers amzn.to/2gS4h6z Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Here is the link to the 2 pairs of alligator clips- amzn.to/2CtIL5z Here is the Link for the UEI DL389 Multimeter used in the video - amzn.to/2naJr9o Here is the Link for the FieldPiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter- amzn.to/2AhR6ph Here is the Link for the UEI Temp Sensor- amzn.to/2kawAmJ Here is the link for the Irwin Wire Stripper/Cutter/Crimper- amzn.to/2dGTj2V Here is a link to the Stanley 6 in 1 screwdriver- amzn.to/2x7NuaZ Other tool links can be found in the video description section. ACSERVICETECH is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon. All of the ACSERVICETECH Playlists- ruclips.net/channel/UCOZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mAplaylists?view_as=public If you want to support the ACSERVICETECH Channel and receive more HVACR content, check out www.Patreon.com/acservicetech
Thank you Sir! I paused this 58 seconds in, replaced my capacitor with the old blower (of the same model) sitting in my garage and it worked right off! You saved me $100's or more!
I'm watching this right now as I have a repair man trying to fix my unit. This is so helpful so at least I understand what is happening when he figures out what is causing the issue. Thank you!
If you want to support the ACSERVICETECH Channel and receive articles, videos, and answers to questions, check out www.Patreon.com/acservicetech All of the ACSERVICETECH Playlists- ruclips.net/channel/UCOZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mAplaylists?view_as=public
Great video. My capacitor was bad. Corroded and rusty terminals and the top was bulged out. Didnt even need to test it. The part is $8.25 almost anywhere on the internet. I paid $25 total after tax and same day shipping (sunday) everything is working before 12 noon. I could have just paid the $8.25 and waited for Friday. I saved HUNDREDS for a Sunday job and learned like most things HVAC is pretty simple once you pop the hood and take a looksie! Hardest part was borrowing a ladder and getting on the roof.
I figured out my problem reading through your comment section Great video you got a new subscriber. Thanks a lot In case you're curious of what it was It was in handler Some phony technician!! I inherited the house it was an elderly woman living here alone The Tech put a 3 amp fuse in there and it was popped job I'm surprised it lasted that long Job security I guess smh
One decision that is tough for me is whether to replace the blower wheel with the motor. Sometimes the wheel itself can get out of balance. Sometimes a metallic "whirring" sound indicates a blower wheel replacement. A sign of bearings going bad can be a slight high pitched sound when the motor is up to speed. Also a grinding sound during operation.
Thanks so much for your video on this! Thanks to your help, I found the relay on the control board to me the blower motor to be bad. Until the new controller comes in that I ordered, I wired my blower motor (it's 110v) to a cord with a plug to plug in an outlet. This is the same as the unit being in the fan being in the "on" position on the thermostat anyways. And it's working until the controller comes in the mail! You are a lifesaver! I don't know if you still check these videos, but I do have a question, will running the blower motor (pretty much the same as it being in the on position), waste a lot more power? I've read that it's probably better for the blower motor actually to be ran like this because it doesn't have to stop and start. Is that true as well? And lastly, I do notice that running it like this makes for the house to have no warm spots in rooms. Is that a benefit of doing this? If you do read this, again, thank you so much! You are a lifesaver! 👍👍👍
I watched your other video on the fan limit switch but it appears that mine is working and spinning correctly but the blower still does not kick on for the heat while in auto but works perfectly fine on Auto while in A/C mode
thank you & good job, but one more thing , if you have a bad breaker then you also will not get the voltage needed to start blower, I think this is my issue in which I will correct today
We just recently replaced an x13 motor under warranty. Tested it and it was running great. Ironically had a call back with the same problem of no air flow a week later. The new motor malfunctioning? NOPE Guess what? It was the insulation on the door panel coming loose that caused the problem the whole time. Ugh Ripped the insulation out but the motor was fried again.
My blower on my inside unit goes for 60 seconds and then it stops. I cleared away any built up dust on the back of the blower and the motor still seems hot. Everytime I power down then back up, I get the same 60 seconds of blow time. The outside unit is running just fine.
On my 2010 TempStar furnace, the PSC motor overheated and shorted out the start winding. This is easily checked by measuring the ohms across the two brown capacitor leads with the motor disconnected. It should read 60 ohms on a good motor (20 + 40). I was getting just 20 ohms so the start winding is obviously shorted. The interesting thing is how the motor would still start up when it cooled down but would fail after about 20 minutes of operation when the motor was hot. So there could have been some other issues with it as well like bad bearings although I couldn't detect anything obviously wrong with the bearings. It was 14 years old, so I changed the motor and capacitor out and she is running like a champ now. In A/C mode, it would short cycle which has been doing this for years before the motor finally failed. After replacing the motor, there is no more short cycling and I get a nice 10 minutes on, 10 minutes off cycle. BTW, my original capacitor was good and was replaced a few years back but I replaced it anyway.
Thanks very well thought out and done. My blower motor in any mode: AC/Heat/FAN would come on then stop about 2-3 seconds later. I checked all the limit switches and all were shorted all the way to the board. On a whim I shorted the two air flow limit switche wires at the connector and the fan came on and stayed on. I then tried it in AC, Heat & Fan and work fine, and the motor shut off after a short while like normal. I have Plenty of air flow out the vents so I'm not sure which switch is causing it. I think it's the one on the back of the squirrel cage, it would have to be that one! I checked the one on top by the blower and it stays shorted. So whichever one it is I think it fails due to fan vibration, as the fan spins normal and I have normal airflow. Any ideas how to check it without crawling under there? Thanks for your great video It gave me other options to keep in mind. I put a video of what it's doing up on my page, before I shorted it, if you get time please take a look at the 3 minute video and let me know your best guess or other things to test. The limit wires I shorted are on the bottom push connector, the two red wires on the left. Control board # B18099-06 or a 1012-930 Best wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks so much for such clear explanations and guidance! I might possibly be zeroing in on the problem I have, and would love some input if you could spare a moment: I have an ancient late ‘80’s style Nordyne (Intertherm) gas-powered, downflow unit, and as of this season (winter) the blower only runs for heating when thermostat is set to “on” but not in “auto” even when temp gets cooler than desired setting....not sure if this might be related but I also found the capacitor to be bad and replaced it and now the blower runs if turned on manually only....control board? limit switch? Something else? Thanks so much for any advice!!
hey bud im working on a split 2.5 ton system. System was 3 weeks old when it developed a huge leak. Took care of that. Never did installs but the box the coil is in is real flimsy and i have have low pressure low temps. Going to confirm t.x.v is 410a but i think air could be bypassing the coil because of the non exsistant box.
My HVAC fan blower motor runs fine when it runs with no humming or vibration. Sometimes it will not come on at all and when I try to turn it on with the fan option on the thermostat it will not run either. I replaced the capacitor about a 2 weeks ago and it worked fine until this morning and the same problem occurred. The compressor and condenser cooling fan run and operate normally but the blower motor will not run. As it is Sunday I left it off most of the day and tried it again in the afternoon on fan mode and it came on and runs fine. ??? I wished it would just quiet completely so I could find what is causing the problem.
Good stuff, thanks for posting. Question, when I set my system to off and fan to on, fan stays running no issues. However, when i set the system to cool, fan runs a min then shuts off. Will try to restart 3 to 5x, run for a min, repeat. Same behavior if fan is set to auto or on. I have an electronic tstat with batteries, will reaet it again and swap batteries. If i want to by tstat for a test, what wires to connect?
Will a bad module work intermittently? I’ve changed out my control board and manually tested the ECM motor (all speeds) and it was working normally but my blower still comes on intermittently. What would cause the blower not to come on? It’s a Goodman package unit. The capacitor is still good. The blower works intermittently in all modes (AC, Heat/Fan) if we are lucky once a day and we bought a new thermostat.
Mine is a Heil/Tempstar furnace with a DC motor. Technician confirmed what I already believed to be a failed speed control board. Of course it is discontinued. He suggested changing it to an AC motor. I ordered a used board from Ebay, waiting for it to arrive. I looked at the failed board and its completely covered in grey silicone or something, but I could see part of a fuse showing. Why would they put a fuse on a circuit board and cover it up? Motor tests good, control board sends signal to start but speed control doesn't make 24 vdc for motor.
My blower motor runs when the thermostat is at temp and keeps it at temp. Once the temp in the house goes up like when cooking the thermostate clicks on and the condensor comes on but the blower motor does not.
first of all thanks for the video it is very helpful. secondly I have a question. the blower motor on my AC is not working, I replaced the capacitor and still doesn't work on its own, but if I give it a little spin by hand it starts running. The unit turns off fine but to get the motor started again i have to manually give it a spin. do you think its the bearings on the motor? any advice? thank you
It sounds like the best thing to do is to replace the motor. There could be a problem with the capacitor or start winding wire inside the motor. They are not expensive since they are psc motor. Make sure that the new one is the same hp, shaft size, and rpm. New ones may have more speeds so you will need to use the correct speeds and blank off the other speeds individually to make sure that they don't short. You should call a tech to do this if you are not one, thanks Jai!
@@acservicetechchannel yeah the motor was bad. I replaced the motor and capacitor and my AC is running like a champ. I spent 80 dollars total...thank you so much for your help
Hey my ac was working good other day suddenly in all vent blow comeing like warm and smell like something burn and I shut of ac then I turn on unit is running good the pipe cold that spouse to be but inside normal air comeing what could be wrong ?
If a blower isn't working would that keep the compressor and condenser fan from coming on too. I lubed my condenser fan motor because it wasn't spinning freely and everything worked for a couple of days and now nothing comes on. The condenser fan turns freely when I turn it. No hum at the compressor. Condenser fan not on. Blower not coming on inside. Breaker is on. Fuses at disconnect are good. Thanks
What is the black motor/blower assembly called and for? For me it is THAT one which is super hot, starts to move but needs my help and is connected to a small rectangle plastic 2 prong item which I think may be a capacitor
I'm replacing my blower motor in my Air Handler. The new motor is also a 220v but it has a white wire and the old does not. where does the white wire connect to? Thanks
When you say free spin, do you mean manual spin? Everything turns on but the fan, and to get my house warm I've had to reach in and manually push the fan.
I have an HRV with a high/low speed motor. It's not turning on. If I check between common and high or common and low I read OL. Does this mean I could have a broken common or overload. I am going to check capacitor now. The squirrel cage spins but not freely like yours.
I have 2 units , 1 for each floor. Is there any connection between the 2 units? I’ve noticed the wires from the thermostat are doubled at the circuit board, Thank you if you have time to answer
I have a blower motor that will only run at very reduced speed (no real air movement) with tstat set to on. If tstat is off, then there is a hum that appears to come from electronics part of cabinet, not motor. Small Carrier unit has no capacitor. Motor windings test OK. Is it a motor module, transformer, or other?
My blower motor is good. When calling for heat the fan switch clicks for the motor to come on but motor doesn't respond I need to set the t'stat from auto to run and the motor will come on. Thanks in advance! Rick B
My blower motor won’t start without me giving it a spin. Once I manually do that, it will keep spinning and blowing air until the furnace turns it off. Possible bad capacitor...saw that in another comment. I’ll check it when I get a chance.
I got question hopefully someone can answer quick! My blower isnt working, the capacitor was broken so i replaced that first but it didnt fix the problem so i had someone take a look, they said the motor needed to be replaced so i got one and am in the process of installing it. My question is, how can both the capacitor and the motor both be busted? Shouldn't It just be one or the other?? Or is the fact that before it completely stopped working it was working only intermittently the reason why both broke??
GEEZ , the guy helping me at AC place their place not open today or tomorrow AND I need to ask him again something . He said yesterday on blower motor if I disconect the cool terminal wire on circuit board and connect the bottom black wire to cool terminal that ( this is what I'm not sure what he said and needed to talk to him ) if it works ( or doesn't ) that means board is bad NOT the motor ?? OR is it the other way around ?? And yes replaced capacitor . Still the same barely running the blower not full speed and shuts down after a while even with new capacitor
Did UEI say to leave the capacitor hooked up for "10 to 20 seconds" to get a good reading??? Also you need the voltage capacitor to be at or above the voltage you are using.
Hey Tim, That is what I found with the UEI meter. Sometimes you will get a reading but be patient because it may change. I find that if I wait the ten seconds then it is an accurate reading. You are a 100% right on the voltage being the same or high on the cap, thanks Tim!
I would start at the control board and measure for 24v with the multimeter probes reading from r to c. Then jump from r to g with jumpers to send 24v to the g to signal the blower to turn on. Thanks
I'm getting a buzzing noise like the blower motor won't start I shut it off and I can turn it free by hand then sometime it will turn on then shut back off with 5-10 mins and blower motor getting hot any thoughts?
I found a broken wire on mine. The wire had broken into. I used the fan switch on the thermostat because the fan wouldn't come on one day and the furnace would shut down after a minute when it was lit. So the yellow wire had snapped. It came when the ac was on but the furnace. So I had to splice it. It works fine but stays on too long, and it blows cold air has to turn the burner on to warm up. If leave temperature on 70 it stay on for 15 minutes and kicks of the fan. It's a 1980 furnace. It hadn't been cleaned in years so I cleaned it the I could. It's an an apartment and doesn't hold heat that good.
So I replace my capacitor, it works for a few hours. In the morning the blower doesn’t go on but I hear the capacitor buzzing. Take everything apart and I oiled the motor. It then works for a whole day. About 2 am it stops working again. Could it be the motor dying?
Thanks for the video. Mine was a simple fix. But, your statements about the Y and G coming from the condenser helped me out. Mine were Y and C, though. But, still... :-)
Hoping for a tip before I shell out a bunch of cash for an AC tech. So my blower all of the sudden stopped working last month, it was really dirty inside and was the original motor from 94. I cleaned up all the dust on the wheel, bought a new blower motor and capacitor. Turned on the AC and still wouldn't blow air. Turned on heat and it blew air for a second and then stopped. Unplugged some wires because I had the low and medium switched. Plugged back in and it turned on with the AC for like 20 seconds and now it won't run again. I'm thinking it has to be the control board because everytime I hit the door switch I can hear the relays click but nothing spin? Any ideas?
It is best to have a extra capacitor for inside air handler an outside condenser unit!! I did watched some videos an decided to buy an extra for the out side unit an lord behold my compressor wasn’t engaging on so I replaced the capacitor on a hunch an everything started working an cooling again I bought a new spare for next time also if needed, make sure you cut all power an short out the capacitor with a insulated screw driver!!!
Help Please!!! My blower motor doesn't seem to have a capacitor that I can see. It's a ruud Hm4821ja. When the thermostat kicks on the outside unit turns on but the blower motor stutters and maybe will start spinning. If the air has been off for a while it will stutter but start and stay on just fine. If the thermostat turns it off and then it tries to turn on anytime soon... It stutters continuous trying to start up spin but won't! I was hoping it was a capacitor but I can't see one anywhere.
@@kurtauerbach5883 Hey, I just did that, but my fan only runs when it is set to auto. When it is on fan on mode, blower does not run, even with the jump. I have replaced the fan limit switch, motor capacitor, and 1420844 spdt relay which was burnt on COM prong. Furnace model: GUG141A020IN Any ideas? ps. Last time i called a service guy, they tried to sell me a new system =)
@@kurtauerbach5883 That did the trick, but it ran only one or two good heat cycles, now it doesn't even send the ignite signal. I mean the ignition controls' light is not turning green when thermostat is trying to turn it on. Thanks for quick reply! edit: one of the wires came out from back of the harness that goes to control board! what a mess lol edit:2 at the end, it was the thermostat and that lose wire on the harness. Thank you! looks like it's working ok but the airflow doesn't seem right. It's too low, the blower spins ok, I'll add some oil maybe that will help.
@@zunairfayaz congratulations on getting the signal to the furnace area! sound like you have multiple problems.. im thinking you havent fired this up for some time. There is a sequence of events for furnace to run properly. assuming you wired up ur thermostat correctly. you can youtube the sequence.. there are others for wiring the thermostat.
My furnace stopped working with a electrical burning smell. I reset it and everything turned on until it was time for the blower motor and it would not turn on. I replaced the capacitor and still nothing. Took the motor out and plugged it in directly into an outlet. Black to black and white to white and it would only work sometimes and sometimes just hum and not turn on. Is it a bad motor? Much appreciated.
I replaced the capacitor and ensured that I get resistance across the motor. The fan turns on but It can't make the jump up to full speed. Any suggestions? Appreciate the video
Mason Savage Did you check resistance across all windings? There's a set for each speed usually. When you say 'make the jump' do you mean a manual switch, or...?
System in a trailor house... in heat mode , the heat comes on ( electric heat) , but sometimes the blower won't come on (But I could jump start it , by going from Auto to On , and then going back to Auto) . It did this Last two weeks of winter , but this year it Worked right to for 2 weeks , then it ( heat comes on ,But I can't Jump start (blower) like before. I have the Lowest Braeburn tremostats ( I reset it) Just waiting to see if that helps... Do you have any suggestions for Me ??? Thank you
Mine turned out to be the windings that are responsible for cooling were shot and the motor would get very hot. On heat cycle, the motor would run fine and the motor did not get got and this is after I replaced the capacitor. So this turned out to be the motor.
I have a blower fan problem my fan randomly stops even when the thermostat has the fan running. Just like it randomly stops it starts running like normal again. Some times the fan triggered when I turn the fan on and off multiple times to get it working. What could be my problem? Mine is an Electric HVAC system. I have already changed the blower motor capacitor and that did not fix it. The issue of fan randomly not running still persists. What else could be my problem?
Hi. My blower motor will, once in a while, continue to rock back and forth without turning on completely. This has caused my coils to freeze and my limit switch to pop while in heat. When calling for fan only, I receive 24 volts from the thermostat at "R" and "G". However, when going from the 16 pin header on the control board (ECM 2.3) the "G" pin (#15) only sends 15 volts to the motor module. The harness is fine as it shows continuity for all lines. Is the 15 volts that leaves the control board and goes to the motor module the issue causing my blower motor to sometimes stay rocking back and forth without turning on completely? Or would you assume it's the motor module and the 15 volts out of the control board is not the problem?
It could be either or the control board itself, to check, look up some other videos I did on the "testing genteq 2.3" and "acservicetech ecm motor playlist" thanks
Hey so I’m hoping you can help yet again to answer a question for me. So my company has been installing nest E thermostats and for some reason I was told that they are not compatible with variable speed blower motors as it will not allow the motor to ramp up speed. This confuses me because doesn’t the thermostat only close the connection between r and w and then wouldn’t the control board at that point decide on the ramping of the blower? Also if you can in the future please talk about power stealing stats and how they operate or effect operation of hvac equipment because we install a tonneeee of these we actually have a contract to install 50000 up here in Canada so the hvac community will see more and more of these. When you have a chance please address this and as always thank you so much for all the work you put in you can’t imagine how much I’ve improved in the field because of your work.
Everything you said is 100% correct. The nest stat only connects the r and w at the control board. Just make sure that you are selecting single speed furnace in the stat and let the furnace do its own thing at the control board. People are probably getting confused because there is an option on controlling 1st and second speed in the tstat. Just select single if it is variable speed. If it is a two speed and the last stat controlled the 2 speeds then you can wire it that way in the stat unless you know the board can ramp to the second speed itself, thanks.
Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech
For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
Here is a link to the Genteq ECM TecMate Pro-amzn.to/2DmL6wa
Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL469 Multimeter- amzn.to/2jw4ePJ
Here is a link for the Supco Magnet Jumpers amzn.to/2gS4h6z
Here is the Link for the newer UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ
Here is the link to the 2 pairs of alligator clips- amzn.to/2CtIL5z
Here is the Link for the UEI DL389 Multimeter used in the video - amzn.to/2naJr9o
Here is the Link for the FieldPiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter- amzn.to/2AhR6ph
Here is the Link for the UEI Temp Sensor- amzn.to/2kawAmJ
Here is the link for the Irwin Wire Stripper/Cutter/Crimper- amzn.to/2dGTj2V
Here is a link to the Stanley 6 in 1 screwdriver- amzn.to/2x7NuaZ
Other tool links can be found in the video description section.
ACSERVICETECH is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.
All of the ACSERVICETECH Playlists- ruclips.net/channel/UCOZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mAplaylists?view_as=public
If you want to support the ACSERVICETECH Channel and receive more HVACR content, check out www.Patreon.com/acservicetech
Thank you Sir! I paused this 58 seconds in, replaced my capacitor with the old blower (of the same model) sitting in my garage and it worked right off! You saved me $100's or more!
Thanks, make sure it is the same size as stated on the side of the installed blower motor, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel What possible damage would occur if it's not the same size??
I'm watching this right now as I have a repair man trying to fix my unit. This is so helpful so at least I understand what is happening when he figures out what is causing the issue. Thank you!
Glad it helped
If you want to support the ACSERVICETECH Channel and receive articles, videos, and answers to questions, check out www.Patreon.com/acservicetech
All of the ACSERVICETECH Playlists- ruclips.net/channel/UCOZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mAplaylists?view_as=public
My blower ended up being the capacitor! Thank you so much for this video! You're the best man :)
After watching your video i got my blower fixed thanks you saved me $$$ much appreciated
Excellent!
Great video. My capacitor was bad. Corroded and rusty terminals and the top was bulged out. Didnt even need to test it. The part is $8.25 almost anywhere on the internet. I paid $25 total after tax and same day shipping (sunday) everything is working before 12 noon. I could have just paid the $8.25 and waited for Friday. I saved HUNDREDS for a Sunday job and learned like most things HVAC is pretty simple once you pop the hood and take a looksie! Hardest part was borrowing a ladder and getting on the roof.
Thanks
One of the best troubleshooting videos I have ever seen on RUclips. Great job, dude!
This is one of the best videos I have seen!
Thanks a lot Andrew!
Me too! Best I have seen. Thank you.
You just saved me few hundred bucks on a service call. God bless you!
Thanks dpajc056!
Wow! Better video than I could ever hoped for! Wow thank you for sharing this valuable knowledge
Glad it was helpful!
This really helped me now that I am further in the hvac program I am in. Thanks again man !
That's awesome to hear Tristan, thanks!
This is a terrific tutorial on troubleshooting a furnance fan. Really appreciate it!
Wow... great explanations of a ton of possible problems. Helped me out a ton! Thanks bud
Glad it helped!
I figured out my problem reading through your comment section
Great video you got a new subscriber. Thanks a lot
In case you're curious of what it was It was in handler Some phony technician!! I inherited the house it was an elderly woman living here alone The Tech put a 3 amp fuse in there and it was popped job I'm surprised it lasted that long
Job security I guess smh
Thanks!
One decision that is tough for me is whether to replace the blower wheel with the motor. Sometimes the wheel itself can get out of balance. Sometimes a metallic "whirring" sound indicates a blower wheel replacement. A sign of bearings going bad can be a slight high pitched sound when the motor is up to speed. Also a grinding sound during operation.
Great add ons!
Thanks so much for your video on this! Thanks to your help, I found the relay on the control board to me the blower motor to be bad. Until the new controller comes in that I ordered, I wired my blower motor (it's 110v) to a cord with a plug to plug in an outlet. This is the same as the unit being in the fan being in the "on" position on the thermostat anyways. And it's working until the controller comes in the mail!
You are a lifesaver!
I don't know if you still check these videos, but I do have a question, will running the blower motor (pretty much the same as it being in the on position), waste a lot more power? I've read that it's probably better for the blower motor actually to be ran like this because it doesn't have to stop and start. Is that true as well? And lastly, I do notice that running it like this makes for the house to have no warm spots in rooms. Is that a benefit of doing this?
If you do read this, again, thank you so much! You are a lifesaver! 👍👍👍
Great troubleshooting tips to check! Thanks
Glad to help
Thanks very much for posting this video. My capacitor was bad. Works fine now, after replacing it.
I watched your other video on the fan limit switch but it appears that mine is working and spinning correctly but the blower still does not kick on for the heat while in auto but works perfectly fine on Auto while in A/C mode
Awesome information thank you. Great troubleshooting advice.
thank you & good job, but one more thing , if you have a bad breaker then you also will not get the voltage needed to start blower, I think this is my issue in which I will correct today
Yes these were if you had power to the unit and low voltage controls had power thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel my actual problem was corrosion on the main wires that come into the apartment I did not see that coming
We just recently replaced an x13 motor under warranty. Tested it and it was running great. Ironically had a call back with the same problem of no air flow a week later. The new motor malfunctioning? NOPE Guess what? It was the insulation on the door panel coming loose that caused the problem the whole time. Ugh Ripped the insulation out but the motor was fried again.
Yeah they break themselves when there is high friction in the duct system just like when the filter is dirty, thanks for adding that one!
My blower on my inside unit goes for 60 seconds and then it stops. I cleared away any built up dust on the back of the blower and the motor still seems hot. Everytime I power down then back up, I get the same 60 seconds of blow time. The outside unit is running just fine.
What was wrong with it?
Yes, what was the problem? That’s what mine is doing.
Thanx a lot!
You're welcome!
Thanks for comprehensive review. For a novice, which of these would be caused by an electrical power surge?
Also interested, as mine went out in a Carrier Infinity (variable) after power surge.
Thank you
Welcome!
On my 2010 TempStar furnace, the PSC motor overheated and shorted out the start winding. This is easily checked by measuring the ohms across the two brown capacitor leads with the motor disconnected. It should read 60 ohms on a good motor (20 + 40). I was getting just 20 ohms so the start winding is obviously shorted. The interesting thing is how the motor would still start up when it cooled down but would fail after about 20 minutes of operation when the motor was hot. So there could have been some other issues with it as well like bad bearings although I couldn't detect anything obviously wrong with the bearings. It was 14 years old, so I changed the motor and capacitor out and she is running like a champ now. In A/C mode, it would short cycle which has been doing this for years before the motor finally failed. After replacing the motor, there is no more short cycling and I get a nice 10 minutes on, 10 minutes off cycle. BTW, my original capacitor was good and was replaced a few years back but I replaced it anyway.
Thanks very well thought out and done. My blower motor in any mode: AC/Heat/FAN would come on then stop about 2-3 seconds later. I checked all the limit switches and all were shorted all the way to the board. On a whim I shorted the two air flow limit switche wires at the connector and the fan came on and stayed on. I then tried it in AC, Heat & Fan and work fine, and the motor shut off after a short while like normal. I have Plenty of air flow out the vents so I'm not sure which switch is causing it. I think it's the one on the back of the squirrel cage, it would have to be that one! I checked the one on top by the blower and it stays shorted. So whichever one it is I think it fails due to fan vibration, as the fan spins normal and I have normal airflow. Any ideas how to check it without crawling under there?
Thanks for your great video It gave me other options to keep in mind. I put a video of what it's doing up on my page, before I shorted it, if you get time please take a look at the 3 minute video and let me know your best guess or other things to test. The limit wires I shorted are on the bottom push connector, the two red wires on the left. Control board # B18099-06 or a 1012-930 Best wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Technicians usually measure those individually with a meter during diagnosis to determine which is the problem, thanks
Thanks so much for such clear explanations and guidance! I might possibly be zeroing in on the problem I have, and would love some input if you could spare a moment: I have an ancient late ‘80’s style Nordyne (Intertherm) gas-powered, downflow unit, and as of this season (winter) the blower only runs for heating when thermostat is set to “on” but not in “auto” even when temp gets cooler than desired setting....not sure if this might be related but I also found the capacitor to be bad and replaced it and now the blower runs if turned on manually only....control board? limit switch? Something else? Thanks so much for any advice!!
Very thorough and to the point.
Thank you!
hey bud im working on a split 2.5 ton system. System was 3 weeks old when it developed a huge leak. Took care of that. Never did installs but the box the coil is in is real flimsy and i have have low pressure low temps. Going to confirm t.x.v is 410a but i think air could be bypassing the coil because of the non exsistant box.
Low airflow would read low pressure low superheat, thanks
Thank you , great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Best video. Thank you.
Glad you liked it!
Hi, my HVAC blower motor works fine when HVAC is off or AC is on. It doesn't work for heat. Any advise? Thanks!
Nice job and video
Thanks for the visit
Could you do a video on a retrofit from R22 to 407c and how to add the oil and the basic things to look for
I would like to when in ac season when given the chance and right customer. Thanks Jimmy!
My HVAC fan blower motor runs fine when it runs with no humming or vibration. Sometimes it will not come on at all and when I try to turn it on with the fan option on the thermostat it will not run either. I replaced the capacitor about a 2 weeks ago and it worked fine until this morning and the same problem occurred. The compressor and condenser cooling fan run and operate normally but the blower motor will not run. As it is Sunday I left it off most of the day and tried it again in the afternoon on fan mode and it came on and runs fine. ??? I wished it would just quiet completely so I could find what is causing the problem.
Good stuff, thanks for posting. Question, when I set my system to off and fan to on, fan stays running no issues. However, when i set the system to cool, fan runs a min then shuts off. Will try to restart 3 to 5x, run for a min, repeat. Same behavior if fan is set to auto or on. I have an electronic tstat with batteries, will reaet it again and swap batteries. If i want to by tstat for a test, what wires to connect?
Saved me two service calls in two days. The blower capacitor went first then the capacitor on the compressor fan died 16 hours later.
Glad to help Steven!
I got a question
If the problem is the thermal overload ,if I replaced it will this make the blower work again?
Thanks asking for a friend
Will a bad module work intermittently? I’ve changed out my control board and manually tested the ECM motor (all speeds) and it was working normally but my blower still comes on intermittently. What would cause the blower not to come on? It’s a Goodman package unit. The capacitor is still good. The blower works intermittently in all modes (AC, Heat/Fan) if we are lucky once a day and we bought a new thermostat.
Mine is a Heil/Tempstar furnace with a DC motor. Technician confirmed what I already believed to be a failed speed control board. Of course it is discontinued. He suggested changing it to an AC motor. I ordered a used board from Ebay, waiting for it to arrive.
I looked at the failed board and its completely covered in grey silicone or something, but I could see part of a fuse showing. Why would they put a fuse on a circuit board and cover it up? Motor tests good, control board sends signal to start but speed control doesn't make 24 vdc for motor.
My blower motor runs when the thermostat is at temp and keeps it at temp. Once the temp in the house goes up like when cooking the thermostate clicks on and the condensor comes on but the blower motor does not.
first of all thanks for the video it is very helpful. secondly I have a question. the blower motor on my AC is not working, I replaced the capacitor and still doesn't work on its own, but if I give it a little spin by hand it starts running. The unit turns off fine but to get the motor started again i have to manually give it a spin. do you think its the bearings on the motor? any advice? thank you
It sounds like the best thing to do is to replace the motor. There could be a problem with the capacitor or start winding wire inside the motor. They are not expensive since they are psc motor. Make sure that the new one is the same hp, shaft size, and rpm. New ones may have more speeds so you will need to use the correct speeds and blank off the other speeds individually to make sure that they don't short. You should call a tech to do this if you are not one, thanks Jai!
@@acservicetechchannel yeah the motor was bad. I replaced the motor and capacitor and my AC is running like a champ. I spent 80 dollars total...thank you so much for your help
Hey my ac was working good other day suddenly in all vent blow comeing like warm and smell like something burn and I shut of ac then I turn on unit is running good the pipe cold that spouse to be but inside normal air comeing what could be wrong ?
If a blower isn't working would that keep the compressor and condenser fan from coming on too.
I lubed my condenser fan motor because it wasn't spinning freely and everything worked for a couple of days and now nothing comes on. The condenser fan turns freely when I turn it.
No hum at the compressor. Condenser fan not on. Blower not coming on inside.
Breaker is on. Fuses at disconnect are good.
Thanks
Thank you for your help:)
You're welcome!
Heat and Cooling
What is the black motor/blower assembly called and for? For me it is THAT one which is super hot, starts to move but needs my help and is connected to a small rectangle plastic 2 prong item which I think may be a capacitor
My blower seems like it takes too long to start what could be the problem? Thanks
I'm replacing my blower motor in my Air Handler. The new motor is also a 220v but it has a white wire and the old does not. where does the white wire connect to? Thanks
Very detailed video. Lots of help thank u
Thanks Eric!
my fuse popped when i jumpered G and C does this confirm a bad relay?
When you say free spin, do you mean manual spin? Everything turns on but the fan, and to get my house warm I've had to reach in and manually push the fan.
That sounds like a possible bad capacitor, thanks
How much to have a pro service replace bad motor nowadays?
I have an HRV with a high/low speed motor. It's not turning on. If I check between common and high or common and low I read OL. Does this mean I could have a broken common or overload. I am going to check capacitor now. The squirrel cage spins but not freely like yours.
I have 2 units , 1 for each floor. Is there any connection between the 2 units? I’ve noticed the wires from the thermostat are doubled at the circuit board, Thank you if you have time to answer
I have a blower motor that will only run at very reduced speed (no real air movement) with tstat set to on. If tstat is off, then there is a hum that appears to come from electronics part of cabinet, not motor. Small Carrier unit has no capacitor. Motor windings test OK. Is it a motor module, transformer, or other?
what is it, if I bang on the air handle or spin it, it comes on? Bad Cap? Runs fine after it starts.
I have to tap mine to get it to start please help south texas heat !!
Thank You.
My blower motor is good.
When calling for heat the fan switch clicks for the motor to come on but motor doesn't respond
I need to set the t'stat from auto to run and the motor will come on.
Thanks in advance!
Rick B
What if you have a brand new System and the condenser comes on but the blower isn’t coming on ?
My blower motor won’t start without me giving it a spin. Once I manually do that, it will keep spinning and blowing air until the furnace turns it off. Possible bad capacitor...saw that in another comment. I’ll check it when I get a chance.
hello. Bro, were you able troubleshoot your motor? I have the same issue with my AC.
I got question hopefully someone can answer quick!
My blower isnt working, the capacitor was broken so i replaced that first but it didnt fix the problem so i had someone take a look, they said the motor needed to be replaced so i got one and am in the process of installing it.
My question is, how can both the capacitor and the motor both be busted? Shouldn't It just be one or the other?? Or is the fact that before it completely stopped working it was working only intermittently the reason why both broke??
If the air handler starts to have slow starts, or sometimes fails to start, what could that mean?
I'm going to say a bad motor.........
Especially if you've already replaced the cap.
GEEZ , the guy helping me at AC place their place not open today or tomorrow AND I need to ask him again something . He said yesterday on blower motor if I disconect the cool terminal wire on circuit board and connect the bottom black wire to cool terminal that ( this is what I'm not sure what he said and needed to talk to him ) if it works ( or doesn't ) that means board is bad NOT the motor ?? OR is it the other way around ?? And yes replaced capacitor . Still the same barely running the blower not full speed and shuts down after a while even with new capacitor
Did UEI say to leave the capacitor hooked up for "10 to 20 seconds" to get a good reading??? Also you need the voltage capacitor to be at or above the voltage you are using.
Hey Tim, That is what I found with the UEI meter. Sometimes you will get a reading but be patient because it may change. I find that if I wait the ten seconds then it is an accurate reading. You are a 100% right on the voltage being the same or high on the cap, thanks Tim!
Replaced motor, capacitor, transformer, thermostat and circuit board. Nothing will turn on? What could be issue ?
I would start at the control board and measure for 24v with the multimeter probes reading from r to c. Then jump from r to g with jumpers to send 24v to the g to signal the blower to turn on. Thanks
Can a frozen squirrel cage cause a fried circuit board
I'm getting a buzzing noise like the blower motor won't start I shut it off and I can turn it free by hand then sometime it will turn on then shut back off with 5-10 mins and blower motor getting hot any thoughts?
Awesome job thank you so much
Thanks, Great video.
Glad you liked it!
I found a broken wire on mine. The wire had broken into. I used the fan switch on the thermostat because the fan wouldn't come on one day and the furnace would shut down after a minute when it was lit. So the yellow wire had snapped. It came when the ac was on but the furnace. So I had to splice it. It works fine but stays on too long, and it blows cold air has to turn the burner on to warm up. If leave temperature on 70 it stay on for 15 minutes and kicks of the fan. It's a 1980 furnace. It hadn't been cleaned in years so I cleaned it the I could. It's an an apartment and doesn't hold heat that good.
To test for blower motor on terminals G & C I'm checking for 24volts with the furnace power on or off. If off the tstat has to be calling for heat?
The tstat needs to be calling for the fan to come on either by fan-auto and system-heat, or the fan in the fan-on position.
So what could it be when its not sending 24 volt to G wire? Only getting 12 volt from Y to G. I have no common wire
Excellent video
Thanks Tank!
Thanks so much, this is SO helpful!
Thanks Paul!
So I replace my capacitor, it works for a few hours. In the morning the blower doesn’t go on but I hear the capacitor buzzing. Take everything apart and I oiled the motor. It then works for a whole day. About 2 am it stops working again. Could it be the motor dying?
Thanks for the video. Mine was a simple fix. But, your statements about the Y and G coming from the condenser helped me out. Mine were Y and C, though. But, still... :-)
It may have sounded like g but I said y and c going to the outdoor unit, thanks Patrick!
Hoping for a tip before I shell out a bunch of cash for an AC tech. So my blower all of the sudden stopped working last month, it was really dirty inside and was the original motor from 94. I cleaned up all the dust on the wheel, bought a new blower motor and capacitor. Turned on the AC and still wouldn't blow air. Turned on heat and it blew air for a second and then stopped. Unplugged some wires because I had the low and medium switched. Plugged back in and it turned on with the AC for like 20 seconds and now it won't run again. I'm thinking it has to be the control board because everytime I hit the door switch I can hear the relays click but nothing spin? Any ideas?
Very good Video...
Thanks Darrell!
Like the vids. A lot very helpful. Could you try to speaker louder tho please. Sometimes cant hear/understand what you are saying.
I believe the newer videos have better audio and video quality, thanks!
It is best to have a extra capacitor for inside air handler an outside condenser unit!! I did watched some videos an decided to buy an extra for the out side unit an lord behold my compressor wasn’t engaging on so I replaced the capacitor on a hunch an everything started working an cooling again I bought a new spare for next time also if needed, make sure you cut all power an short out the capacitor with a insulated screw driver!!!
I have an air mover that goes off and on after running about twenty minutes. It spins smooth.
What was wrong with it?
Help Please!!! My blower motor doesn't seem to have a capacitor that I can see. It's a ruud Hm4821ja. When the thermostat kicks on the outside unit turns on but the blower motor stutters and maybe will start spinning. If the air has been off for a while it will stutter but start and stay on just fine. If the thermostat turns it off and then it tries to turn on anytime soon... It stutters continuous trying to start up spin but won't! I was hoping it was a capacitor but I can't see one anywhere.
I am now apprentice my control board getting 24v from transformer but they are not coming showing on thermostat terminals ?
And also no red light
jump at ur thermistat green to red if ur blower now works its ur thermistat that should of been the first thing he did he skipped to the capacitor
@@kurtauerbach5883 Hey, I just did that, but my fan only runs when it is set to auto. When it is on fan on mode, blower does not run, even with the jump.
I have replaced the fan limit switch, motor capacitor, and 1420844 spdt relay which was burnt on COM prong.
Furnace model: GUG141A020IN
Any ideas?
ps. Last time i called a service guy, they tried to sell me a new system =)
@@zunairfayaz ti believe this to be a thermostat issue.
@@kurtauerbach5883 That did the trick, but it ran only one or two good heat cycles, now it doesn't even send the ignite signal.
I mean the ignition controls' light is not turning green when thermostat is trying to turn it on.
Thanks for quick reply!
edit:
one of the wires came out from back of the harness that goes to control board! what a mess lol
edit:2
at the end, it was the thermostat and that lose wire on the harness.
Thank you! looks like it's working ok but the airflow doesn't seem right. It's too low, the blower spins ok, I'll add some oil maybe that will help.
@@zunairfayaz congratulations on getting the signal to the furnace area! sound like you have multiple problems.. im thinking you havent fired this up for some time.
There is a sequence of events for furnace to run properly. assuming you wired up ur thermostat correctly. you can youtube the sequence.. there are others for wiring the thermostat.
Very helpful!
Thanks Bryan!
My furnace stopped working with a electrical burning smell. I reset it and everything turned on until it was time for the blower motor and it would not turn on. I replaced the capacitor and still nothing. Took the motor out and plugged it in directly into an outlet. Black to black and white to white and it would only work sometimes and sometimes just hum and not turn on. Is it a bad motor? Much appreciated.
Sounds like a bad motor, thanks
I replaced the capacitor and ensured that I get resistance across the motor. The fan turns on but It can't make the jump up to full speed. Any suggestions? Appreciate the video
Mason Savage Did you check resistance across all windings? There's a set for each speed usually. When you say 'make the jump' do you mean a manual switch, or...?
@@timmarrier I figured it out. Faulty blower motor. :/ Thanks for the video though
Hello
I would need help
I’m looking for a
5 in diamter furnace exhaust blower motor 1550 rpm shaft size 5" L
Great video 👍 thanks!
Thanks!
What happens if ac blower on cooling mode runs for few second the cuts off.?
System in a trailor house... in heat mode , the heat comes on ( electric heat) , but sometimes the blower won't come on (But I could jump start it , by going from Auto to On , and then going back to Auto) . It did this Last two weeks of winter , but this year it Worked right to for 2 weeks , then it ( heat comes on ,But I can't Jump start (blower) like before. I have the Lowest Braeburn tremostats ( I reset it) Just waiting to see if that helps... Do you have any suggestions for Me ??? Thank you
Do you have a fan limit control?
Excellent videos thanks man.
Thanks Luis!
Mine turned out to be the windings that are responsible for cooling were shot and the motor would get very hot. On heat cycle, the motor would run fine and the motor did not get got and this is after I replaced the capacitor. So this turned out to be the motor.
I have a blower fan problem my fan randomly stops even when the thermostat has the fan running. Just like it randomly stops it starts running like normal again. Some times the fan triggered when I turn the fan on and off multiple times to get it working. What could be my problem? Mine is an Electric HVAC system. I have already changed the blower motor capacitor and that did not fix it. The issue of fan randomly not running still persists. What else could be my problem?
Hi. My blower motor will, once in a while, continue to rock back and forth without turning on completely. This has caused my coils to freeze and my limit switch to pop while in heat.
When calling for fan only, I receive 24 volts from the thermostat at "R" and "G". However, when going from the 16 pin header on the control board (ECM 2.3) the "G" pin (#15) only sends 15 volts to the motor module. The harness is fine as it shows continuity for all lines.
Is the 15 volts that leaves the control board and goes to the motor module the issue causing my blower motor to sometimes stay rocking back and forth without turning on completely? Or would you assume it's the motor module and the 15 volts out of the control board is not the problem?
It could be either or the control board itself, to check, look up some other videos I did on the "testing genteq 2.3" and "acservicetech ecm motor playlist" thanks
Hey so I’m hoping you can help yet again to answer a question for me. So my company has been installing nest E thermostats and for some reason I was told that they are not compatible with variable speed blower motors as it will not allow the motor to ramp up speed. This confuses me because doesn’t the thermostat only close the connection between r and w and then wouldn’t the control board at that point decide on the ramping of the blower? Also if you can in the future please talk about power stealing stats and how they operate or effect operation of hvac equipment because we install a tonneeee of these we actually have a contract to install 50000 up here in Canada so the hvac community will see more and more of these. When you have a chance please address this and as always thank you so much for all the work you put in you can’t imagine how much I’ve improved in the field because of your work.
Everything you said is 100% correct. The nest stat only connects the r and w at the control board. Just make sure that you are selecting single speed furnace in the stat and let the furnace do its own thing at the control board. People are probably getting confused because there is an option on controlling 1st and second speed in the tstat. Just select single if it is variable speed. If it is a two speed and the last stat controlled the 2 speeds then you can wire it that way in the stat unless you know the board can ramp to the second speed itself, thanks.
So the energy company has hired your company to install 50,000 nests?
acservicetech nest e, ecobee3lite or Honeywell lyric. Customer choice
acservicetech also I don’t believe there is an option to select that in the nest is there?
acservicetech nest e btw not nest learning stat
Why my blower won't come o. In cooling mode but works in heating mode