Your methods may be more 'long-winded' as you say, but for that is the correct way of doing it! You're taking your time, you're thinking ahead, and you're clearly doing a great job! I much prefer watching your van conversion than 98% of the other ones on RUclips. You can always see them cutting corners, or doing a frankly shocking job. Which you are not! So, thank you and good luck with the rest of the conversion :)
I have iust bought an ex post office Vauxhall combo to convert never done anything like this before have researched like crazy on here and your tutorials make me believe I can actually achieve this thank you so much for your expert advice long winded is good it means everything gets covered I am starting today will film my progress and hopefully will do your tutorials proud thank you again and your girls are beautiful I loved doing projects with my dad who has sadly passed but those memories I'll treasure forever wish me luck 😃
I have to say i appreciate the T shirt as well i havnt watched TV in over 20 years and RUclips is so cool because we get to connect with REAL GENUINE PEOPLE and that is the best thing ever! Thank you so much we really appreciate your time to make these videos RESPECT BRO!!!
This level of detail is like the Mercedes Benz of van conversions. I've torn apart junk Mercedes and you will find quality and details even where no one can see.
This is the best explained van builds Iv seen for detailed methods in the build .thanks for the video mate ,you explained every thing very clear great tips Iv watched the build all the way through
Really nice how the process is going. Just ordered my solar panels and when I start building my van I'll definitely use your tips and well thought plans :)
Use low expansion spray foam to fill in the ribs, the kind meant to fill in around doors and windows, and don't go overboard and you'll be fine. You can always put more in if you don't get enough the first go round.
SAY WAIT!: A super cheap greatly overlooked free insulation material for what you might use to stuff into cavities in a van is used poly fill-pillow filling that you can fairly easily get for free from people's warn discarded sofa's are often found next to apartment dumpsters OR the Foam From the discarded Seat Cushions-New foam is Very expensive but this foam is FREE and should also sound deaden much! The cushions often have zippers or just cut the seat open. To cut foam to desired size and shapes, I use a hack saw taken out of it's holder, holding the blade loose in hand and saw back and forth although it does not work as quick and precise as an electric meat knife, it works ok. Don't use fiberglass insulation that goes in house attics, I think the loose fibers would get into your lungs no matter what. Also note that the stuff in used sofa's have been covered and protected by the outer fabric so it's usually in pretty good shape. Because any soft pillow pads or pillow backs can be full of the stuff. Just cut open with a knife to find out and take what you want before the garbage company crushes the sofa. Of course you'd want to give it a quick close scan smell with your nose on it in case it has pet urine but really most apartment deter pets by either not allowing pets or they charge a lot to have them. Manufacturers make the poly basically from plastic bottles and it's fluffy and no one is allergic to it and it doesn't make you scratch and it doesn't absorb water and although it isn't as good of an insulation as foam, it does insulate by holding the air in it's fiber fluff pockets. Of course you can buy it new in bag at hobby departments but it can be kind of expensive and why buy new when you can get for free and save the environment from more new plastic?! What could be cheaper? Thanks for your videos! Your don't great job finding what works!
Heat cutter is on my to do list. Excellent for cutting foam and 🦆 Looks simple to build from scraped toaster or solder gun. There is so much to find and use from scrapyards, fleemarkets and dumpsters. Basic knowledge, youtube, fantasy and time will take you a long way. Camper stuff is usually poor quality and expensive. Boat stuff is also expensive but often much better quality. A used car water pump is dirt cheap and way better than any camper equvellent. Cheers and Pardon mi spelling.
The challenge of effective insulating is to create a pocket of dead air without having moisture condensation. Not sure if completely filling the gap will be the most effective. Otherwise, great craftmanship.
I need a man like you! This is such a detailed piece of work that you are doing. I just purchased a Promaster. I'm a girl. My sisters friend was going to do the van build for me. I learned today that he is too busy - I was going to pay him. Bummer.
Thanks... just started my roof insulation today. Spray adhesive did not hold work to hold the panels in place. I didn't look forward to the spray foam mess. I ripped 1/2# plywood, 54" x 4-1/2" wide. Screwed and used construction adhesive to secure them to the steel ribs. Cut the one inch foam board. Tomorrow, I play with the spray foam. I can see that my plank ceiling installation is going to be alot easier. Thank you again!
Your attention to detail is amazing. I've been watching campervan conversion videos for the last 6 months before going into such an adventure and your channel is top of the top. I mean, awesome job, I just subscribed and I never subcribed to anything before ;)
I do enjoy your videos. I have a new Vauxhall Movano which I plan to convert, following your logical thinking and straightforward approach. Keep up the good work with all your videos!
Old video, but if you’ve come here for insulation tips, the expanding foam (DIY cans) also comes in a formula for “doors and windows” which is softer and will not “bulge” metal or thicker plywood.
Hello, would you mind posting which type of plastic insulation and expanding foam you've used? Thanks *so much* for all your videos by the way, they've been hugely useful in planning my conversion.
Hi sorry to jump on a old video but I am following lots of your tips on tge build you do...I have one particular question though,what self tappers did you use when screwing laths yo van roof ribs,,I have tried a few with no success.. Cheers great job..
Great vid and extremely well presented. Can I ask: You have created a cavity within the roof and the insulation, will this not create a void for condensation or will the celetex rid keep the heat down within the van? Thanks Phil
As no reply, they'll be a self tapping screw , little pilot hole prior to screwing , AND WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Likewise man REAL GENUINE PEOPLE is what i like!!! I have met so many mother fucking assholes who have ripped me off and lied to me and i payed them for it! and they did kuck job so its great to see genuine people who share when they dont really have to so that means a lot to me RESPECT!!!
I really love this idea, trying to think of a way to do something similar but can't sacrifice the head room for those ply strips as I'm just grazing the roof as is :(
Good job. I have limited headroom in 2004 gmc Savana hitop my head touching ceiling now. Going to install Maxair fan so will drop existing ceiling being 3/8” ply with fabric headliner glued on. There are shallow ridge/valleys in the fiberglass I wouldn’t think necessary filling them ? If I were to go with a different ceiling as in 1/4” or thinner cedar T&G or 4x8 paneling then would have approx 1/2” for insulation. I bought 1/2” polyiso foil faced one side that is an option and considering 3/8” Ultratouch Radiant Barrier - one side foil faced and it being denim wonder about moisture ? Main objective is to minimize heat transfer from sun hitting the roof in summer as well as to keep it cooler inside and warm in winter.what should I do? If using the 1/2” polyiso is foil facing up or down ? And is the 1/2” even worth the trouble installing for minimal R-Value. Will need try something to help condensation perhaps. So what’s the best bang for the buck?
Not a bad thing to fill the ribs by any means, however the fact they connect to the outlet skin of the van technically you're not preventing the cold from being drawn in.
Hi Guys, CAn anyone tell me where to find a detailed list of the materials he used, at the mo, id just like to know the thickness of ply strips, and thickness of all celetex in each area?
Hey! Did you not put thermawrap on the roof? Is there a reason? I’m having condensation issues in my van and I think it may be because of the thermawrap barrier.
I know you say its long winded, but If you don't have time to do it correctly, when will you have time to do it again!!! :D Question. If you were insulating a van for primarily use in a hot climate, would you do the same? Will the kingspan reflect the heat out also? I'm in the planning stage for one, and we live in Spain. So didn't want to turn it into an oven.
We’ve got a 2015 Citroen Relay. As far as I can tell the distance from point where celotex would sit to the bottom of the rib is 30mm so then with the 12mm ply battons on top of the rib we have 12mm extra space. Rather than being flush. Am I missing something?
Hello, id just like to say first off thank you for all your videos they are great. I just have a quick question and its probably a stupid one but when you say that the screws that hold the battons onto the roof need taping over otherwise they will condict the cold air, why would this not occur with the screws that hold the tongue and groove ceiling on? Because presumably they will pierce the vapour barrier and go into the battons? Sorry if there is an obvious answer im just trying to get my head around the whole insulation thing. Thank you.
Oh here’s a question. I have gutters running along the bottom sides of my van leading to outside. It makes sense to me to seal this while insulating, probably using expanding foam? Do you have any thoughts?
I like the concept of using the PU foam to grip in the insulation boards but have you had the ability to test whether this happened? PU foam needs air to expand so after you got the seal done it may not have expanded enough to grip it properly and insulation board is non permeable so new air won't have been added, it may have left you with air gaps along insulation boards. Let me know as I would to know if this method works.
Hello, love your videos. Im about to do my third campervan build but first i'm debating on installing three double acrylic glazed windows or bonded windows. i have double acrylic in the past but they are soooo expensive. I see that you have single pane bonded windows, how has this affected your vans insulation? what methods have you used to prevent heat loss/gain through them? Thanks
hi, wonderful work and very cute little helpers. i have 04 GMC Savana hitop fiberglass roof having a few slightly wood filled raised ridges apparently for screwing. Existing ceiling is apprx 1/4" ply with thin foam headliner material with a few long oak trim strips holding it up. The sides and rear portion of rook are 12" the front is tapered and curved more than the rest ofroof.. Going to take down install maxair fan and then insulate. For headroom I need stay as thin as possible so bought 1" polyiso foil on both sides and a couple sheets 1/2" sheets foil.on 1 side. Are you satisfied using polyiso in your van? Mines is older van and not planning to live in it trying stay simple. 1. Would using only 1 sheet 1/2" be adequate? And should foil face to ext or int? I had thought potentially to add a second 1/2"layer for R value and its lighter for holding up and more bendable, also allowing a foil de the opposite direction and 1 layer 1/2" would much less labor. Or go with 1" cut in sections like yours trhe utilize the 1/2" doubles for sides rear . The front portion due to curve tapering downcould use just 1 layer 1/2' that area will be closed in storage and now has thin layer ins in headliner of cab. I wanted share as much details as possible for you wondering the most effective way to get this done with least head and back ache. Ultimately wanting block hot sun radiating through the fiberglass trying stay cooler yet have ins for the cold months. I thought of 1/2" air gap then reflectix? Lastly is it necessary to get between ridged fully filled with spray foam as well as seal it over with some sort of vapor barrior. I planned to use spray foam foil tape all seems. Help!!!! lol
Hello, great videos and very well explained. Continue with this great job. Just one question, and maybe already answer, but when is the best time to pass all cables for roof lights and all plugs that you have planed. Thx Rui
Rui Rodrigues sooner the better. Or at least run some conduit pipe around to where you know you want lights, outlets. Certainly best to do before you finish insulation.
Great job. Are you concerned at all about the air gap behind the board? Isn't there a risk of condensation? I've done the same as you but put a thin layer of loft insulation behind the board to fill that gap. That was NOT a good idea. It seems to be soaking up condensation.
Not really concerned as the only moisture that can condense there is the minimal amount in the air behind. The vapour barrier should prevent the warm moist air from the van reaching anyway near the van skin.
Hi, thanks for the video very helpful in our current conversion! Just wondering how you got the cabin lights out? And did you keep the wiring available to use or get rid of that as well? Thanks
I'm wondering, would spraying the whole emptied can with a layer of "foam" cork be a good "primer" for the metal? Could it significantly reduce the thermal conductivity of metal or nah just nice texture? 😇
Thanks for responding to my other comments, i have a feeling i might be firing a few questions your way, for the batons out of 12mm ply, is there a particular type of ply i should be using, i found softwood ply at a good price? Or even for the wall batons that you make to hang the beds off, would you suggest marine ply for that?
Can you install this type of insulation in my van? I can bring my van at your premises and pay you for the work. Or is there someone you would recommend to do this kind of work?
This may be a silly question but i'm far from knowledgeable in these things. To insulate for a hot environment where i want to try to keep it cooler inside, would I need to change anything? Eg. putting a vapour barrier on the other side (directly against the panels).. or would the condensation protection be the same either way?
I’ve maybe missed a video or something, but I have two questions, first is what’s the reason for the small squares of insulation on the walls? The other is are you putting anything behind the wool in all the small pockets and holes?
did you know that the r value of polyiso goes down to 2 when exposed to -10 degrees c? Xps's R value on the other hand goes up from 5 to 6. WOuld it have been a good idea to seal the plywood first on both sides?
Luckily I don't plan to be using the van at -10c! Although yes XPS is a good route, better compression strength for the floor too and less squeeky! Not sure if any need to seal ply.
I would love to know if the ply needs sealing in the van. The ceiling ribs I was tempted to seal just because if condensation forms, it's just above them.
Hi there! I have a(nother) question :) What thickness insulation did you use for the roof? The depth of the ribs are 25mm and the thickness of the plywood strips are 12mm and, therefore I assume you used 35mm thickness, is that correct? If so, where did you get it from? All suppliers I've contacted are telling me that Celotex are not producing the 35mm thickness at the moment... Thank you!
+Konstantinos Parsalidis 30mm is what we used and worked great. Harder to find than 25mm but we had to use it because of seat tracks on the floor. You could use 25mm flush with ply and have a bigger airspace above but 30mm was ideal for our van.
What size batons did you use? I’m currently in a van conversion and there’s no rib at the back to struggling to fit a baton at the end! Would be really helpful to know thanks
Great job. In order to keep the the foam boards in place, you're just using friction and the expanding foam, right? You're not using adhesive. Why not gluing the boards to the van's ceiling, would that be overkill?
You could put a flexible adhesive but due to the nature of the shaped van roof and thickness of insulation it will not necessarily be in contact everywhere. The tape between foam and battens is actually the best way to keep them in place.
Laying in the van watching on how I'm going to do the ceiling. Thanks for sharing!
This series of videos are a fucking gold mine. It's like a follow-along
This was good to watch just to see those two little kids enjoying their dads company. It was lovely!
Your methods may be more 'long-winded' as you say, but for that is the correct way of doing it! You're taking your time, you're thinking ahead, and you're clearly doing a great job! I much prefer watching your van conversion than 98% of the other ones on RUclips. You can always see them cutting corners, or doing a frankly shocking job. Which you are not! So, thank you and good luck with the rest of the conversion :)
Agreed
I have iust bought an ex post office Vauxhall combo to convert never done anything like this before have researched like crazy on here and your tutorials make me believe I can actually achieve this thank you so much for your expert advice long winded is good it means everything gets covered I am starting today will film my progress and hopefully will do your tutorials proud thank you again and your girls are beautiful I loved doing projects with my dad who has sadly passed but those memories I'll treasure forever wish me luck 😃
I have to say i appreciate the T shirt as well i havnt watched TV in over 20 years and RUclips is so cool because we get to connect with REAL GENUINE PEOPLE and that is the best thing ever! Thank you so much we really appreciate your time to make these videos RESPECT BRO!!!
This level of detail is like the Mercedes Benz of van conversions. I've torn apart junk Mercedes and you will find quality and details even where no one can see.
The best, well thought out build I've seen! I will follow your process on my future build
love the efforts from dads little helpers
This is the best explained van builds Iv seen for detailed methods in the build .thanks for the video mate ,you explained every thing very clear great tips Iv watched the build all the way through
Really nice how the process is going. Just ordered my solar panels and when I start building my van I'll definitely use your tips and well thought plans :)
Use low expansion spray foam to fill in the ribs, the kind meant to fill in around doors and windows, and don't go overboard and you'll be fine. You can always put more in if you don't get enough the first go round.
What a very clever chap you are:) Wonderful Dad too. Hoping to follow in your footsteps and looking forward to next episode.
SAY WAIT!:
A super cheap greatly overlooked free insulation material for what you might use to stuff into cavities in a van is used poly fill-pillow filling that you can fairly easily get for free from people's warn discarded sofa's are often found next to apartment dumpsters OR the Foam From the discarded Seat Cushions-New foam is Very expensive but this foam is FREE and should also sound deaden much! The cushions often have zippers or just cut the seat open. To cut foam to desired size and shapes, I use a hack saw taken out of it's holder, holding the blade loose in hand and saw back and forth although it does not work as quick and precise as an electric meat knife, it works ok. Don't use fiberglass insulation that goes in house attics, I think the loose fibers would get into your lungs no matter what. Also note that the stuff in used sofa's have been covered and protected by the outer fabric so it's usually in pretty good shape.
Because any soft pillow pads or pillow backs can be full of the stuff. Just cut open with a knife to find out and take what you want before the garbage company crushes the sofa.
Of course you'd want to give it a quick close scan smell with your nose on it in case it has pet urine but really most apartment deter pets by either not allowing pets or they charge a lot to have them.
Manufacturers make the poly basically from plastic bottles and it's fluffy and no one is allergic to it and it doesn't make you scratch and it doesn't absorb water and although it isn't as good of an insulation as foam, it does insulate by holding the air in it's fiber fluff pockets.
Of course you can buy it new in bag at hobby departments but it can be kind of expensive and why buy new when you can get for free and save the environment from more new plastic?!
What could be cheaper? Thanks for your videos! Your don't great job finding what works!
Heat cutter is on my to do list. Excellent for cutting foam and 🦆
Looks simple to build from scraped toaster or solder gun.
There is so much to find and use from scrapyards, fleemarkets and dumpsters. Basic knowledge, youtube, fantasy and time will take you a long way.
Camper stuff is usually poor quality and expensive. Boat stuff is also expensive but often much better quality. A used car water pump is dirt cheap and way better than any camper equvellent. Cheers and Pardon mi spelling.
Great vid the van is really coming to shape
The challenge of effective insulating is to create a pocket of dead air without having moisture condensation. Not sure if completely filling the gap will be the most effective. Otherwise, great craftmanship.
I need a man like you! This is such a detailed piece of work that you are doing. I just purchased a Promaster. I'm a girl. My sisters friend was going to do the van build for me. I learned today that he is too busy - I was going to pay him. Bummer.
CC I hope you got your van built. Watch all the great videos and do it yourself if you have to. Girls can do anything! Just believe in yourself.
you have the most beautiful kids... great job on the van conversion... love your videos... they do help others.... keep it up...
Thanks... just started my roof insulation today. Spray adhesive did not hold work to hold the panels in place. I didn't look forward to the spray foam mess. I ripped 1/2# plywood, 54" x 4-1/2" wide. Screwed and used construction adhesive to secure them to the steel ribs. Cut the one inch foam board. Tomorrow, I play with the spray foam. I can see that my plank ceiling installation is going to be alot easier. Thank you again!
Perfect the way you did this ! regards from CH
Perfect and " fussy" job. I like that :-)
Perfect job mate. Sikaflex and mitrefix is king on any job!
Excellent video as usual. Thank you :)
Following along and getting ready for my build thanks for motivation and ideas
Your attention to detail is amazing. I've been watching campervan conversion videos for the last 6 months before going into such an adventure and your channel is top of the top. I mean, awesome job, I just subscribed and I never subcribed to anything before ;)
Thanks Manuel and welcome! :-)
I do enjoy your videos. I have a new Vauxhall Movano which I plan to convert, following your logical thinking and straightforward approach. Keep up the good work with all your videos!
Old video, but if you’ve come here for insulation tips, the expanding foam (DIY cans) also comes in a formula for “doors and windows” which is softer and will not “bulge” metal or thicker plywood.
Excellent roof installation install.
Enjoying the videos and the detail. Thank you for sharing.
Hello, would you mind posting which type of plastic insulation and expanding foam you've used? Thanks *so much* for all your videos by the way, they've been hugely useful in planning my conversion.
As long as they are yours... child labour is a-okay. My grandmother always said that is what kids are for.😉
We call it work experience! :-)
Don’t necessarily need to be your own kids, just “borrow” some!!
The Restoration Couple
Cute kids. Y'all should be proud parents. Greetings from America!
Ana Francois . Aye, you don’t have a dog and bark as well!
You dad skills are even better than you van conversion skills. Great job on both!
really like your technique! really quite ingenious! just got my van i think ill try your tech tips thanks
There are multiple types of expanding closed cell foam... to avoid blowouts and panel damage use the can labeled “for windows and doors”
Yes low expansion foam much better. Although still a pain if you need any welding! 😀
Hi sorry to jump on a old video but I am following lots of your tips on tge build you do...I have one particular question though,what self tappers did you use when screwing laths yo van roof ribs,,I have tried a few with no success..
Cheers great job..
Another fantastic well taught out vid.
Great vid and extremely well presented. Can I ask: You have created a cavity within the roof and the insulation, will this not create a void for condensation or will the celetex rid keep the heat down within the van? Thanks Phil
Awesome idea what you did with those plywood strips. The result is a clean stunning looking roof. Great job man
Greetings from Belgium
Erik
Hi - what screws did you use to screw the ribs to the roof ?
As no reply, they'll be a self tapping screw , little pilot hole prior to screwing , AND WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I see the real stars are at the beginning stealing the lime light again
I watched this whole video taking metal notes and tips.... before realising I have a pop-top -_- haha good video anyway!
I appreciate your tshirt :)
Likewise man REAL GENUINE PEOPLE is what i like!!! I have met so many mother fucking assholes who have ripped me off and lied to me and i payed them for it! and they did kuck job so its great to see genuine people who share when they dont really have to so that means a lot to me RESPECT!!!
nice job.............greetings from croatia
I really love this idea, trying to think of a way to do something similar but can't sacrifice the head room for those ply strips as I'm just grazing the roof as is :(
awesome...
I'm working on my van as well.
any particular type of screws for screwing wood to metal ? any need for pilot holes ? thanks
Good job. I have limited headroom in 2004 gmc Savana hitop my head touching ceiling now. Going to install Maxair fan so will drop existing ceiling being 3/8” ply with fabric headliner glued on. There are shallow ridge/valleys in the fiberglass I wouldn’t think necessary filling them ? If I were to go with a different ceiling as in 1/4” or thinner cedar T&G or 4x8 paneling then would have approx 1/2” for insulation. I bought 1/2” polyiso foil faced one side that is an option and considering 3/8” Ultratouch Radiant Barrier - one side foil faced and it being denim wonder about moisture ? Main objective is to minimize heat transfer from sun hitting the roof in summer as well as to keep it cooler inside and warm in winter.what should I do? If using the 1/2” polyiso is foil facing up or down ? And is the 1/2” even worth the trouble installing for minimal R-Value. Will need try something to help condensation perhaps. So what’s the best bang for the buck?
Not a bad thing to fill the ribs by any means, however the fact they connect to the outlet skin of the van technically you're not preventing the cold from being drawn in.
Hi Guys, CAn anyone tell me where to find a detailed list of the materials he used, at the mo, id just like to know the thickness of ply strips, and thickness of all celetex in each area?
wendy tobiassen did you ever find this out please?
Hey! Did you not put thermawrap on the roof? Is there a reason? I’m having condensation issues in my van and I think it may be because of the thermawrap barrier.
Just finished your floor video and I’m thinking it’s the exact same approach save some tweaks here and there for the insulation vs gravity thing.
Great job & great tips!!
no I cant wait a week I need to see more nowwwwww. :(
I lost count after 3 - kids are adorable...
The girls are ADORABLE!!
Bravo. Wha ya a.bout use Ultratouch rad barrier along with 1/2”polyiso?
Too bad one can’t bottle and sell energy.Those two girls would be billionaires in about a year or less.😂😂. Your doing a great job with your build.
I know you say its long winded, but If you don't have time to do it correctly, when will you have time to do it again!!! :D
Question. If you were insulating a van for primarily use in a hot climate, would you do the same? Will the kingspan reflect the heat out also? I'm in the planning stage for one, and we live in Spain. So didn't want to turn it into an oven.
What is the recycled plastic insulation called / do you have a link? I've looked at B&Q and want to make sure I don't get a fibreglass by accident
Very helpful video. Thank you. Could you please tell me the name of the tape you use at the end to cover the screws?
How are fixing battens to ribs? Are you just screwing straight into steel?
what kind of screw did you use to attach the wood on the ceiling? did you drill more holes or using the existing holes on the ribs?
Just short countersunk self drilling screws straight through.
We’ve got a 2015 Citroen Relay. As far as I can tell the distance from point where celotex would sit to the bottom of the rib is 30mm so then with the 12mm ply battons on top of the rib we have 12mm extra space. Rather than being flush. Am I missing something?
Should there be something between the ply and the bare metal?
Hello, id just like to say first off thank you for all your videos they are great. I just have a quick question and its probably a stupid one but when you say that the screws that hold the battons onto the roof need taping over otherwise they will condict the cold air, why would this not occur with the screws that hold the tongue and groove ceiling on? Because presumably they will pierce the vapour barrier and go into the battons? Sorry if there is an obvious answer im just trying to get my head around the whole insulation thing.
Thank you.
Oh here’s a question. I have gutters running along the bottom sides of my van leading to outside. It makes sense to me to seal this while insulating, probably using expanding foam? Do you have any thoughts?
I like the concept of using the PU foam to grip in the insulation boards but have you had the ability to test whether this happened? PU foam needs air to expand so after you got the seal done it may not have expanded enough to grip it properly and insulation board is non permeable so new air won't have been added, it may have left you with air gaps along insulation boards.
Let me know as I would to know if this method works.
Hello, love your videos. Im about to do my third campervan build but first i'm debating on installing three double acrylic glazed windows or bonded windows. i have double acrylic in the past but they are soooo expensive. I see that you have single pane bonded windows, how has this affected your vans insulation? what methods have you used to prevent heat loss/gain through them? Thanks
hi, wonderful work and very cute little helpers. i have 04 GMC Savana hitop fiberglass roof having a few slightly wood filled raised ridges apparently for screwing. Existing ceiling is apprx 1/4" ply with thin foam headliner material with a few long oak trim strips holding it up. The sides and rear portion of rook are 12" the front is tapered and curved more than the rest ofroof.. Going to take down install maxair fan and then insulate. For headroom I need stay as thin as possible so bought 1" polyiso foil on both sides and a couple sheets 1/2" sheets foil.on 1 side. Are you satisfied using polyiso in your van? Mines is older van and not planning to live in it trying stay simple. 1. Would using only 1 sheet 1/2" be adequate? And should foil face to ext or int? I had thought potentially to add a second 1/2"layer for R value and its lighter for holding up and more bendable, also allowing a foil de the opposite direction and 1 layer 1/2" would much less labor. Or go with 1" cut in sections like yours trhe utilize the 1/2" doubles for sides rear . The front portion due to curve tapering downcould use just 1 layer 1/2' that area will be closed in storage and now has thin layer ins in headliner of cab. I wanted share as much details as possible for you wondering the most effective way to get this done with least head and back ache. Ultimately wanting block hot sun radiating through the fiberglass trying stay cooler yet have ins for the cold months. I thought of 1/2" air gap then reflectix? Lastly is it necessary to get between ridged fully filled with spray foam as well as seal it over with some sort of vapor barrior. I planned to use spray foam foil tape all seems. Help!!!! lol
I have dude the foam for windows. It doesn’t expand as much. Good Vedic.
Cracking job
Hello, great videos and very well explained.
Continue with this great job.
Just one question, and maybe already answer, but when is the best time to pass all cables for roof lights and all plugs that you have planed.
Thx
Rui
Rui Rodrigues sooner the better. Or at least run some conduit pipe around to where you know you want lights, outlets. Certainly best to do before you finish insulation.
What kind of screws did you use to attach to the rips?
Good idea!
Awesome
Great job. Are you concerned at all about the air gap behind the board? Isn't there a risk of condensation? I've done the same as you but put a thin layer of loft insulation behind the board to fill that gap. That was NOT a good idea. It seems to be soaking up condensation.
Not really concerned as the only moisture that can condense there is the minimal amount in the air behind. The vapour barrier should prevent the warm moist air from the van reaching anyway near the van skin.
So what is underneath all this? Are you adhering reflectix to the roof first as a sound deadener?
Really useful video. How did you go about insulating and apply a vapour to the ceiling above the cab?
Hi, thanks for the video very helpful in our current conversion! Just wondering how you got the cabin lights out? And did you keep the wiring available to use or get rid of that as well? Thanks
I'm wondering, would spraying the whole emptied can with a layer of "foam" cork be a good "primer" for the metal? Could it significantly reduce the thermal conductivity of metal or nah just nice texture? 😇
Thanks for responding to my other comments, i have a feeling i might be firing a few questions your way, for the batons out of 12mm ply, is there a particular type of ply i should be using, i found softwood ply at a good price? Or even for the wall batons that you make to hang the beds off, would you suggest marine ply for that?
Hello , what is the brand of foil insulation you put up 1st before the styrofoam? Thanks
Hey. How's the ceiling holding up?
Can you install this type of insulation in my van?
I can bring my van at your premises and pay you for the work.
Or is there someone you would recommend to do this kind of work?
HI SIR FROM WHERE I cAN GET plastic bottle insulation ?
This may be a silly question but i'm far from knowledgeable in these things.
To insulate for a hot environment where i want to try to keep it cooler inside, would I need to change anything? Eg. putting a vapour barrier on the other side (directly against the panels).. or would the condensation protection be the same either way?
I’ve maybe missed a video or something, but I have two questions, first is what’s the reason for the small squares of insulation on the walls? The other is are you putting anything behind the wool in all the small pockets and holes?
Don’t know if it’s too late but the small squares are meant to lower the noise from the metal while driving
did you know that the r value of polyiso goes down to 2 when exposed to -10 degrees c? Xps's R value on the other hand goes up from 5 to 6. WOuld it have been a good idea to seal the plywood first on both sides?
Luckily I don't plan to be using the van at -10c! Although yes XPS is a good route, better compression strength for the floor too and less squeeky! Not sure if any need to seal ply.
The Restoration Couple your kids are insanely cute by the way, good job!
I would love to know if the ply needs sealing in the van. The ceiling ribs I was tempted to seal just because if condensation forms, it's just above them.
Hi there! I have a(nother) question :)
What thickness insulation did you use for the roof? The depth of the ribs are 25mm and the thickness of the plywood strips are 12mm and, therefore I assume you used 35mm thickness, is that correct?
If so, where did you get it from? All suppliers I've contacted are telling me that Celotex are not producing the 35mm thickness at the moment...
Thank you!
+Konstantinos Parsalidis 30mm is what we used and worked great. Harder to find than 25mm but we had to use it because of seat tracks on the floor. You could use 25mm flush with ply and have a bigger airspace above but 30mm was ideal for our van.
Thank you very much! I think I'll use 30mm for the roof (25mm for the floor)
Could you affix the strips perpendicular to the ribs: to save on screws, allow for greater air pocket, and take up less time to complete?
Depends on how you are fitting ceiling. If cladding length ways then best to stay the direction of ribs.
Hello and thank you for your work, Could give us ourselves thick of worked wood? Thank you
perfectionest
Newbie here, go easy. What wood did you use for the battens? Would 12mm soft plywood work?
What size batons did you use? I’m currently in a van conversion and there’s no rib at the back to struggling to fit a baton at the end! Would be really helpful to know thanks
I am researching having a van converted, how much does it usually cost?
What size strips for the roof and what type of screws did you use?
why is there no air gap between the roof insulation and the wood cladding
Oh God, they are so cute.
Great job. In order to keep the the foam boards in place, you're just using friction and the expanding foam, right? You're not using adhesive. Why not gluing the boards to the van's ceiling, would that be overkill?
You could put a flexible adhesive but due to the nature of the shaped van roof and thickness of insulation it will not necessarily be in contact everywhere. The tape between foam and battens is actually the best way to keep them in place.
Can I ask how you insulated above the cab area? Did you go to the bother of removing the headlining? thanks