Did you seale the drainage / ventilation holes at the bottom of the walls? I can see some holes that seems to be for moisture to escape and also some rubber plugs (not sure about those), can you please answer ? thanks in advance...
@@sheri4673 I wouldn’t use sheepswool as in a small area like a van with no vapour barrier it would smell quite farmy! Having used it lots on the house. Recycled plastic wool insulation is a better option in my opinion.
I'm about to embark on my first Van conversion and wached many RUclips vids as a result. You my dear chap are the only one ive seen that make any sense. Safe to say I will be using a fair few of your methods dude!
Be sure to also check out 'Greg Virgoe', as I am sure you will also love his build and attention to (important) details. The Restoration Couple and Greg Virgoe combined will help me build my dream van build, and maybe the will help you too. Happy building @Sick Edits 😊
Thanks. It's great to watch someone who actually knows what they are doing and explains and films it well. Much appreciated. You see people out there wondering why they have condensation issues in their van builds. That should not be such a big issue if one takes the time and does things right - I would hope.
A superb set of videos, many people show what they've done but not how they've done it. Disappointed you have decided to prioritise other projects, although it will give me time to convince my wife that we NEED a van. My only worry is that an extractor fan will not be enough to keep the area cool enough in an Australian summer. Thank you for taking the time to educate the novice DIYer.
Just spent this weekend doing my Transit, just found this video tonight. I've done it exactly the same way. I can't believe how better the van drives, Really quiet. Love the back doors now. Sounds like a Golf:-)
Nice work. Happy to share a few views as a manufacturer of wool insulation and a driver of a sprinter insulated entirely with wool. There is no better insulation medium for moisture, which is inevitable in any cavity but certainly in a van where condensation is a certainty. Wool will actively absorb and desorb against 65% relative humidity. It is a keratin so it will not support the growth of mold. The key for us was to stay away from vapor barriers. We left our wool open to breath behind reclaimed boards but also considered an air tight membrane that is vapor variable ie breathable. Other inherent characteristics of wool allow the amino acids to bond with formaldehyde, NOx and SO2. We did not want to bury these elements of passive filtration behind an air barrier. Finally, the sound deadening of wool is incredible. As we added more and more each day the rig became that much more of a cloud floating down the road. We run a webasto diesel heater; after 15F in Jackson, WY and my wife asking to turn the heat down all is well in #vanlife. Clearly we are biased (it's why we started the company) but intuitively why would you want to fill a confined space with under-performing insulation at best and carcinogenic materials at worst? Happy to answer questions anytime. Cheers from Havelock Wool Insulation.
We only ended up not going the wool route because of cost. I have used it extensively as an eco insulation product in our house renovation. Great stuff to work with.
Your method is exactly how I envisioned how I would prepare my van wall (using the pre-existing holes for the 1x4 and 1x3 and putting up a soft insulation and using the foil bubble wrap as a vapor barrier). Excellent video to show how it should be done properly.
Thanks for all your years of education at University or on the job, it is really helpful to understand the why of vapor-barrier, conduit preparation, etc. Very nice and clear.
Good understanding of how insulation works. Many builders have not got a clue and don't understand the science. Music a little loud in places and at one point only the left channel was working. Great video. Thanks for taking the time.
Great video. I've followed you renovating the house and I trust your technical expertise. So many cowboys out there. I passed your videos on to my friend who is currently doing a conversion on her van
but if you use this foil barrier in this way, if you have a hot day outside and you're running an aircon inside, then you essentially get condensation on the back of that reflectix stuff. I read this long post from an long time insulation engineer on facebook (yes, I know, FB and YT comments are a rabbit hole) but he mentioned that the best thing to do is not to use a vapor barrier at all or use an "real" barrier that regulates the flow of moisture to come in and out, like what would be used in a home...
Great series of videos. I've learned a lot by watching, and greatly appreciate the added time it takes to film everything you're doing. Your kids are ADORABLE!!! Can't wait for the next episode. THANK YOU!!!
Just bought a brand new Promaster and am wanting to get it insulated before winter as well! Great videos really looking forward to the next videos! Thank you for sharing your hard work!
I'm just beginning to learn about how to insulate a van. Your approach makes sense and I like that you are trying to be eco friendly. That is really one of the reasons for living this way, at least in my mind. Thanks for a great video. I will continue to watch and learn.
Great content. love the depth and your attention to detail at every stage even though no one's ever going to see it when it's complete. Keep up the good work.
For some reason, I've seen this stuff a dozen times before but the way you emphasize stuff is really good. Subbed, looking out for the actual building!
I am new to your channel. Found your build thread whilst doing some research for paneling, sound deadening and insulating. I have purchased a new Ford Connect, i should have it by the end of October. Your standard of work and choice of materials used have been outstanding. I won't be turning my van into a camper, but i want to fully sound deaden, insulate, board out and fit hard wearing vinyl to the floor and sides of my van. The roof will be treated the same, only using 4 way stretch carpet as a final finish. I will be using the van as general every day use. But want to keep it looking good. By using vinyl this ensures i can clean it easily and maintain its appearance. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for making the effort to film and explain your way as you go. Really helpful for those of us who want to have a crack at our own van conversions. There is a minefield of tutorials and yours I find practical and valid. Nice one chap.
I just got my 2017 Promaster and looking to do the same. I'm probably using Thinsulate for the walls but same as you for the roof and floor. Thanks for showing the details, and the great videos.
Still enjoying the vids, lots of detail, many thanks.
7 лет назад+11
I'll be converting a ProMaster (Ducato) next year, and no question, you're my how-to guide for the insulation. Clearly well-researched. I'd love an explanation on what thermal bridging you were referring to, though. It looks to me like your walls will already be a good inch apart from the closest parts of the metal frame.
You could argue that the plywood is still a thermal bridge, although low conductivity. They main issue is usually when people use screws through cladding to the metal direct and have condensation form on the screw heads. To be honest, those who go on about thermal bridging in vans sometimes forget that you have vast expanses of single glazed glass and always some exposed metal anyway. Just a case of setting a benchmark and not going over the top.
Well you secondary glaze the glass and carpet (most common) the metal:) Debateable construction but very well executed - insulate the back of the ply with Aquastop www.diy.com/departments/diall-5mm-laminate-solid-wood-flooring-aquastop-underlay-5m/1570774_BQ.prd which also dampens any resonances. The recycled plastic insulation is very nice to work with - I cannot believe people still use glass wool :( to cut use wallpaper scissors.
Brilliant videos. I'm a couple of stages behind you and your videos are unbelievably helpful in guiding me through my build. Just waiting for a dry day to fit the roof fans. Minor point but how did you fix the horizontal battens (that I presume will also support wall cabinets?). Keep up the great vlogs
Thank you so much for sharing and good luck. Hopefully the van will be ready finished for family fun outings next year will be fun. Thanks waiting for next show.
Love the attention to detail in all your videos! Used some of your ideas to build my own sleeper beds and gravel patio from past videos. Worked out perfectly so cheers
Excellent build you seem to have the right balance between cost and effectiveness, I would like to see more detail on the wiring design when you get a chance. I use wavy blades for jigsaws or recip saws to cut Celotex it doesn't produce the fine dust and you can get quite accurate cuts.
Great vid! Diall do a recycled plastic soft insulation roll. I believe that gets around the moisture absorption issues of the usual soft insulation rolls
Great video, did you already do one regarding why you chose this over xps? Also, a bit of a constructive unsolicited crit, there is a huge disparity between the audio levels (talking and the music) and we end up having to turn the volume up and down throughout the video.
Fantastic coverage of your well thought out insulation. Watched some factory videos of rv builds looking for the "right" way & decided they aren't nearly as well built as yours. Most throw in a single layer of thick pink fiberglass & call it good enough...no thought given to vapor barriers (maybe they engineer it into paneling...but didn't see it). Thank you for the great videos. Also volume balance of voice/music is slightly off (music is very happy & I enjoyed it).
Hi, I have a question I’m hoping you could give an educated answer to... We used polyiso foam board for our insulation, however we could not find Rmax foil faced board in 1” anywhere. We found 1” polyiso with high R-Value at a roofing supplier. The coating on it, however, is a mix of recycled paper, fiberglass, and something else (non-toxic). Will this be an issue having polyiso foam board faced with fiberglass in our van? Thank you and love your videos. ❤️
So I am trying to keep heat out.Once the solid stuff heats up, it retains the heat for longer than it blocks it out. I ended up going with the double sided foil XPS 12mm foam as my moisture barrier. I then taped all the edges with silver tape, used expanding foam for the cavities and then finally covered everything with reflective bubble wrap. I might do the foam boards for the ceiling as that also is a sound barrier against rain.. and boy do we get bad storms. My system I believe will heat up slowly but dissipate the heat quickly. I have a cavity between the head liner and the roof. I use a small solar fan to extract heat from the cavity to an outside vent. I would not use the fibre barrier as where i live its very humid and I'm sure it would collect moisture. To prevent rust I've squirted every conceivable rust inhibitor into all the joints etc. It summer here and yesterday it was 40+DegC in the van with high humidity. I couldn't work past 10am becuase it got to hot.
Wow, good job bro. You really know what you are doing. I'm going to do this one day soon. And I'm definitely going to be watching some more of your videos for advice and guidance. I have seen some people not even worry about vapour barrier. They are not thinking about mold at all. Great video.
Did you sealed the drainage / ventilation holes at the bottom of the walls? I can see some holes that seems to be for moisture to escape and also some rubber plugs (not sure about those)
Sir the detail and effort that is gooing in You bild is fantastic . I have to do the same but or to lazy.I do not know if you or planning on solar panels But if you do than take this advice DO NOT buy 12v panels Buy home panels 36volt or more (+- 1 euro per watt ) + a MPPT controler (victron110euro) plus some cable . Good luck with the bild
Well a 12v is mostly +-20 volt so You need a MPPT controller anyway or you loose half of the power A 36v or more kost peanuts compaired to 12v especially when You can buy them as surplus (leftover) from a installer . I have instaled them on boats Yachts and campers My 630 Watt costed 380 euro (panels)( i was lucky) + 110 euro forthe controller ad some more for cable(6carre) and a simple volt meter.You do not need a fancy controller that tells you how manny procent is still in or how much you take out . If you need more info , just ask Good luck with the build
Starting my tiny van conversion (a Suzuki Carry) you make the most sense so I'll be doing as you have done, though it's December now, and will be nearly impossible to put in insulation with out there already being condensation on the van wall, may wait until spring and carry on with my SketchUp model in the meantime. Thank you very much for the vid, did you ever go back with the humidity probe?
Yeah, that what I used with our loft and sheeps wool rolls in the house but I think the only thing that would work with this stuff would be large sharp scissors or a hot wire which would melt it's way through. (which is how I believe they cut it to package)
Your doing a great job. Really enjoyed watching your van conversion so far. Is there any chance of getting some internal and external temperature readings during the winter to see how good the insulation is working. Looking forward to seeing more work on the van when you get chance. Have been watching your other videos. Great work.
GREAT video series. I'm so glad I found your channel as I'm starting on my van conversion. I have one question for you that I haven't seen addressed anywhere. How are you working to prevent condensation on the wheel arches (or are you)? It seems like all of the videos I've seen (including yours) just deal with insulating the floors, walls, and ceiling with only sound dampening insulation added to the wheel arches for noise reduction and vapor barrier. It seems to me this would allow the wheel arches to still act as a thermal bridge and that condensation would be likely to occur on the sound deadener covering the wheel arches since that area is likely to conduct the cold without insulation. Since my wheel arches will eventually be under my bed in the "garage" area, I won't have easy access to them to check for condensation and wipe it up as it occurs. Granted, any condensation that forms would likely just run down and sit on my flooring, but I'd still rather avoid this if possible. Any ideas about how to go about insulating the wheel arches? Thanks and I'm definitely looking forward to more van videos from you. Especially interested to see how you'll be mounting your beds to the frame.
Most likely we will box them in and fill with insulation. As in most vans they are within cupboards, condensation risk is fairly low but worth thinking about like you say.
That's the best solution I could come up with as well. Great minds think alike, lol. Thanks for the reply and looking forward to seeing how your project progresses.
Hey, thanks for the video! Is there any brands you suggest for the foil sided bubble wrap and the foil tape, or would any generic brand do the same job really? Also, I want to keep the lashing hooks that were in the floor, is foiling/taping over the holes before putting the lashing hooks/bolts back in enough, or would you suggest something else to keep a more tight seal to prevent any moisture ingress/thermal bridging (not that I think either will be any way severe. Any feedback would be appreciated :)
I'm very late to this but your video has made so much sense! What type of soft insulation are you using? And which vapour barrier please? There are so many to choose from. Thank you!
Are you happy with the insulation 2 years on? Am just about to start my van would be nice to know how you've found it and if you'd do anything different? Brilliant channel thanks for all your help
Hi great videos, and a very nice build indeed. Regarding Insulation, Q.What is the quantity of soft insulation and also reflectix and how many tubes of sealant will I require, do you have a bill of quantities please? I am looking to do the conversion / Insulation exactly like yours.
Will try and do a blog post soon. Insulation is Diall recycled plastic, silver bubble stuff was generic amazon purchase, high temp spray adhesive and carpet tape for the temp fix of foil.
Unless someone can give an educated opinion as to why not to insulation this way - it's how I'll be doing it in the future. Did you do a cost analysis of wool vs foam board insulation?
J you have unfortunately completely misunderstood the function and performance of a vapour barrier - it is a ... vapour barrier 😜 It works as a barrier to stop vapour passing beyond it. In the case of a van, the vapour is inside the van, and you want to prevent it from getting into your insulation layers, and condensing on the interior face of all the metalwork. So long as when you install everything your van is dry and your insulation is dry, and you face it all with a fully-sealed vapour barrier, then there will never be any moisture behind your walls, thus no condensation and no rust. You appear to believe that the vapour barrier will be trapping moisture behind the walls, but moisture cannot get in there (because the vapour barrier stops it from getting in there). People often get confused about this, but the facts are moisture cannot get through a vapour barrier, so there will be no moisture to get trapped behind it! The only way any moisture could get behind eoukd be if a) you install wet insulation in the first place or b) you have a hole in the van body letting air and water in. They are both issues to avoid, and don't alter the basic physics of vapour barriers working as a block to any moisture passing through, and therefore ensuring there is no moisture to get trapped. Humans create a lot of moisture just from breathing, then add in any cooking, and the moisture in the air, and that's a lot of moisture to get in behind your walls *IF YOU DO NOT INSTALL A VAPOUR BARRIER* , which then condenses on the panels behind the insulation, runs down to low points and never gets out again (potentially causing damage). It is very unlikely the van will ever get hot enough, with enough air flow through the van, for any trapped water droplets to ever evaporate and then make their way out through the insulation and van wall materials. Breathability in buildings relies on moisture being able to move easily, with little resistance, in both directions - to the inside and to the outside - and a van with an impervious external metal skin can't be made to function in that way. Hope this helps explain to anyone confused about vapour barriers vs breathability & not trapping moisture why it is *essential* to use a vapour barrier in a van to prevent all the moisture you are going to be producing from travelling through your van wall materials, through the insulation and on to the metal panel face, where it will condense, run down the panels and sit as water droplets on the metal of your van. 😊
@@emmaslow Makes sense, IF you can insure you have a PERFECT seal. If not, you get moisture inside and it is trapped. To me it seems like it would be very hard to get a perfect seal what with all the ribs and angles in the van walls and all the taping involved.
@@gpa39 Yes but the alternative to not even trying is probably worse as the amount of moisture humans produce through breathing cooking sweating etc must be vast. Another alternative might be to build in vent holes on the exterior of the van walls near the top on both sides to allow air to flow and remove any moisture from the insulation wether you use a vapour barrier or not.
hi, could you send me a link where I can buy to the non-itching insulation wool you used to stuff the walls ? (I am living in Belgium and I can't find the product...) edit : I found your answer in another post : you used "Diall loft insulation" ; the only shop I find is "B and Q" and aparently they don't ship to Belgium ...
What type of spray adhesive do you use, any brands to recommend? We will also be sticking some double-sided bubble reflectix to some of the bare metal areas that are a bit harder to insulate properly (i.e. parts of the sliding door without a cavity) mainly to keep the vapour barrier going, but also our thoughts are it may wick slightly less heat then leaving bare metal (I am aware the consensus is it has minimal insulation properties!). So do you think the double sided sticky tape will be enough for these spots, or would the same spray adhesive used on the soft wool work as well? (Just to clarify - where there is just reflectix on bare metal). Great Vids! Cheers!
Great video ( I've already done my van a few years ago, using similar well thought out principles) have you had any shrinkage of your T&G ceiling boards or has the semi outdoor environment prevented them shrinking? I used some T&G in my last house and each board shrunk about 5% revealing unpainted slivers in the joins.
I had it sat for a couple of weeks in the van as it was kiln dried I guess there may have been risk of it going the other way and swelling. That said it hasn't moved yet and it has had some extremes in temp already. When i did the loft panels with same boards I actually undercoated them first so that when they did move the tongue were already white.
Good idea to use the batons first to create the breathable space but you loose width on the finished job even if only a few cm. Worth it though I guess.
Yet another great video - so helpful. One question, by the time you've come in off the walls with the ply & insulation etc, what will the internal width of the van be? Still enough length to sleep side-to-side? Thanks
Love your methods will definitely be using a lot of it on our built. Just curious if the moisture do get in behind the foil bubble will it get trapped by the foil bubble? Tia
Not if the moisture can’t get there in the first place. Providing there is a continuous vapour barrier on the warm side of wall I am confident there will be no issues.
Hi. At the bottom of the skin of my transit there is a vent. So this vent will be behind the ply wall in in the insulation cavity. Would you keep the vent or block it if insulating the same way as you have? Love the videos thanks!
Great video. I do wonder though if all that work makes sense, since you'll still have windows and the whole front of the cab uninsulated. Did you do any actual temperature comparisons before and after?
Wouldn’t have helped anyway as the van was an unheated space before so no comparison. The windows have multi layer thermal blinds and curtains which will help. You are right to emphasise the cab though as it is often overlooked. 👍
Lots more covered in the floor, roof and prep stage videos. (links in description) Audio levels off a little too, sorry!
How well has this worked 1 year on??
Did you seale the drainage / ventilation holes at the bottom of the walls? I can see some holes that seems to be for moisture to escape and also some rubber plugs (not sure about those), can you please answer ? thanks in advance...
@@sheri4673 I wouldn’t use sheepswool as in a small area like a van with no vapour barrier it would smell quite farmy! Having used it lots on the house. Recycled plastic wool insulation is a better option in my opinion.
I'm about to embark on my first Van conversion and wached many RUclips vids as a result. You my dear chap are the only one ive seen that make any sense. Safe to say I will be using a fair few of your methods dude!
Be sure to also check out 'Greg Virgoe', as I am sure you will also love his build and attention to (important) details. The Restoration Couple and Greg Virgoe combined will help me build my dream van build, and maybe the will help you too. Happy building @Sick Edits 😊
Quite the clearest and most helpful video series around. And believe me, I’ve watched a lot.
I totally agree. Very helpful video. Thank you for all the great content. I have just discovered your channel.
Thanks. It's great to watch someone who actually knows what they are doing and explains and films it well. Much appreciated. You see people out there wondering why they have condensation issues in their van builds. That should not be such a big issue if one takes the time and does things right - I would hope.
Possibly the best description of how to insulate a van. A job well done Sir.
A superb set of videos, many people show what they've done but not how they've done it. Disappointed you have decided to prioritise other projects, although it will give me time to convince my wife that we NEED a van. My only worry is that an extractor fan will not be enough to keep the area cool enough in an Australian summer. Thank you for taking the time to educate the novice DIYer.
Just spent this weekend doing my Transit, just found this video tonight. I've done it exactly the same way. I can't believe how better the van drives, Really quiet. Love the back doors now. Sounds like a Golf:-)
Neatest install I've seen so far. Excellent work! Stealing all your tips for my build.
Nice work. Happy to share a few views as a manufacturer of wool insulation and a driver of a sprinter insulated entirely with wool. There is no better insulation medium for moisture, which is inevitable in any cavity but certainly in a van where condensation is a certainty. Wool will actively absorb and desorb against 65% relative humidity. It is a keratin so it will not support the growth of mold. The key for us was to stay away from vapor barriers. We left our wool open to breath behind reclaimed boards but also considered an air tight membrane that is vapor variable ie breathable. Other inherent characteristics of wool allow the amino acids to bond with formaldehyde, NOx and SO2. We did not want to bury these elements of passive filtration behind an air barrier. Finally, the sound deadening of wool is incredible. As we added more and more each day the rig became that much more of a cloud floating down the road. We run a webasto diesel heater; after 15F in Jackson, WY and my wife asking to turn the heat down all is well in #vanlife. Clearly we are biased (it's why we started the company) but intuitively why would you want to fill a confined space with under-performing insulation at best and carcinogenic materials at worst? Happy to answer questions anytime. Cheers from Havelock Wool Insulation.
We only ended up not going the wool route because of cost. I have used it extensively as an eco insulation product in our house renovation. Great stuff to work with.
Your method is exactly how I envisioned how I would prepare my van wall (using the pre-existing holes for the 1x4 and 1x3 and putting up a soft insulation and using the foil bubble wrap as a vapor barrier). Excellent video to show how it should be done properly.
I think of all insulation tip videos this makes the most sense to cover all bases! thanks
I think for our climate in the uk this is a very good objective thanks for the upload looking foward to the progress.
Thanks for all your years of education at University or on the job, it is really helpful to understand the why of vapor-barrier, conduit preparation, etc. Very nice and clear.
That's the best insulation install ive seen in a van conversion yet. Brilliant vid.
Good understanding of how insulation works. Many builders have not got a clue and don't understand the science. Music a little loud in places and at one point only the left channel was working. Great video. Thanks for taking the time.
Great video. I've followed you renovating the house and I trust your technical expertise. So many cowboys out there. I passed your videos on to my friend who is currently doing a conversion on her van
but if you use this foil barrier in this way, if you have a hot day outside and you're running an aircon inside, then you essentially get condensation on the back of that reflectix stuff. I read this long post from an long time insulation engineer on facebook (yes, I know, FB and YT comments are a rabbit hole) but he mentioned that the best thing to do is not to use a vapor barrier at all or use an "real" barrier that regulates the flow of moisture to come in and out, like what would be used in a home...
Great series of videos. I've learned a lot by watching, and greatly appreciate the added time it takes to film everything you're doing. Your kids are ADORABLE!!! Can't wait for the next episode. THANK YOU!!!
Just bought a brand new Promaster and am wanting to get it insulated before winter as well! Great videos really looking forward to the next videos! Thank you for sharing your hard work!
I'm just beginning to learn about how to insulate a van. Your approach makes sense and I like that you are trying to be eco friendly. That is really one of the reasons for living this way, at least in my mind. Thanks for a great video. I will continue to watch and learn.
Great content. love the depth and your attention to detail at every stage even though no one's ever going to see it when it's complete. Keep up the good work.
The best, most clearly explained, and well filmed video I have seen to do this...and i have watched a lot! well done.
For some reason, I've seen this stuff a dozen times before but the way you emphasize stuff is really good.
Subbed, looking out for the actual building!
Clear and concise "how to". Great instructional Videos. Already pinched/earmarked a couple of your methods for when I build my own van, thanks!
Finding your series so helpful for my own conversion, thank you!
I am new to your channel. Found your build thread whilst doing some research for paneling, sound deadening and insulating. I have purchased a new Ford Connect, i should have it by the end of October. Your standard of work and choice of materials used have been outstanding. I won't be turning my van into a camper, but i want to fully sound deaden, insulate, board out and fit hard wearing vinyl to the floor and sides of my van. The roof will be treated the same, only using 4 way stretch carpet as a final finish. I will be using the van as general every day use. But want to keep it looking good. By using vinyl this ensures i can clean it easily and maintain its appearance.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks for making the effort to film and explain your way as you go. Really helpful for those of us who want to have a crack at our own van conversions. There is a minefield of tutorials and yours I find practical and valid. Nice one chap.
I just got my 2017 Promaster and looking to do the same. I'm probably using Thinsulate for the walls but same as you for the roof and floor. Thanks for showing the details, and the great videos.
Thanks for taking the time on these videos. I started on video 12, but will definitely watch the lot. Good stuff.
Still enjoying the vids, lots of detail, many thanks.
I'll be converting a ProMaster (Ducato) next year, and no question, you're my how-to guide for the insulation. Clearly well-researched. I'd love an explanation on what thermal bridging you were referring to, though. It looks to me like your walls will already be a good inch apart from the closest parts of the metal frame.
You could argue that the plywood is still a thermal bridge, although low conductivity. They main issue is usually when people use screws through cladding to the metal direct and have condensation form on the screw heads. To be honest, those who go on about thermal bridging in vans sometimes forget that you have vast expanses of single glazed glass and always some exposed metal anyway. Just a case of setting a benchmark and not going over the top.
Well you secondary glaze the glass and carpet (most common) the metal:) Debateable construction but very well executed - insulate the back of the ply with Aquastop www.diy.com/departments/diall-5mm-laminate-solid-wood-flooring-aquastop-underlay-5m/1570774_BQ.prd which also dampens any resonances. The recycled plastic insulation is very nice to work with - I cannot believe people still use glass wool :( to cut use wallpaper scissors.
Stéphane Lavergne salut ! Moi aussi meme plans
Brilliant videos. I'm a couple of stages behind you and your videos are unbelievably helpful in guiding me through my build. Just waiting for a dry day to fit the roof fans. Minor point but how did you fix the horizontal battens (that I presume will also support wall cabinets?). Keep up the great vlogs
@@chrisearle1357 it is on the video before this one
Ahh thank you Tim! You've saved me a bunch of time with this one.
Thank you so much for sharing and good luck. Hopefully the van will be ready finished for family fun outings next year will be fun. Thanks waiting for next show.
You make it look so easy 😭😭 your a genius, cheers for sharing your wisdom. Subbed.
Super ideas ! Thanks for posting all your insulating ideas, very through , very detailed
another amazing video. I'm following along, taking notes and will be referring back when I get the van in hand. thank you.
Love the attention to detail in all your videos! Used some of your ideas to build my own sleeper beds and gravel patio from past videos. Worked out perfectly so cheers
Well done the van looks great it definitely looks like you know what your doing and very well explained
Your insulation method seems perfectly reasonable
I would be interested in the cupboard building malarkey!
I enjoy your videos and you do your research which is great. I would love to see what you did with sliding door..
Excellent build you seem to have the right balance between cost and effectiveness, I would like to see more detail on the wiring design when you get a chance. I use wavy blades for jigsaws or recip saws to cut Celotex it doesn't produce the fine dust and you can get quite accurate cuts.
Can’t wait for the testing of all the insulation...it gets cold there for sure
I think it looks fantastic , and looks a really top job , thumbs up
Great vid! Diall do a recycled plastic soft insulation roll. I believe that gets around the moisture absorption issues of the usual soft insulation rolls
That’s what we used. 👍
Excellent videos can’t wait for the next one and as many videos as possible please
Great video, did you already do one regarding why you chose this over xps? Also, a bit of a constructive unsolicited crit, there is a huge disparity between the audio levels (talking and the music) and we end up having to turn the volume up and down throughout the video.
Thanks dude this video is much needed and appreciated
hei. thanks for the conversion videos. I really enjoy the whole series. thanks for the detail Informations. you van looks very good.
Your van, your build, your way.
Ur doing a great job
Thank you so much. I learn a lot from you.
Hey mate, I have learned so much for your videos. Thanks bud keep them coming. Cheers.
Really impressive. Thanks for sharing.
Everything you say makes sense so thats the way im going to go, thanks
Good example of your own idea 😊
Hy, in my opinion, you have done a verry good job. I appreciat you Video verry much. Thanks a lot. God bless y.
Fantastic coverage of your well thought out insulation. Watched some factory videos of rv builds looking for the "right" way & decided they aren't nearly as well built as yours. Most throw in a single layer of thick pink fiberglass & call it good enough...no thought given to vapor barriers (maybe they engineer it into paneling...but didn't see it). Thank you for the great videos. Also volume balance of voice/music is slightly off (music is very happy & I enjoyed it).
Thank you for such an awesome, well-explained video.
Love it!! very well thought out! thank you!!
Change in sound is a mazing .
Great videos. Really appreciate how thorough and clear you are. How has this insulation held up over the last two years?
You've helped me alot, thank you 😉
Thumbs up on the video, I can see that it's well thought out.
Very interesting and helpful. Thank you. Learned a lot!
Hi, I have a question I’m hoping you could give an educated answer to...
We used polyiso foam board for our insulation, however we could not find Rmax foil faced board in 1” anywhere.
We found 1” polyiso with high R-Value at a roofing supplier. The coating on it, however, is a mix of recycled paper, fiberglass, and something else (non-toxic).
Will this be an issue having polyiso foam board faced with fiberglass in our van?
Thank you and love your videos. ❤️
So I am trying to keep heat out.Once the solid stuff heats up, it retains the heat for longer than it blocks it out. I ended up going with the double sided foil XPS 12mm foam as my moisture barrier. I then taped all the edges with silver tape, used expanding foam for the cavities and then finally covered everything with reflective bubble wrap. I might do the foam boards for the ceiling as that also is a sound barrier against rain.. and boy do we get bad storms. My system I believe will heat up slowly but dissipate the heat quickly. I have a cavity between the head liner and the roof. I use a small solar fan to extract heat from the cavity to an outside vent. I would not use the fibre barrier as where i live its very humid and I'm sure it would collect moisture. To prevent rust I've squirted every conceivable rust inhibitor into all the joints etc. It summer here and yesterday it was 40+DegC in the van with high humidity. I couldn't work past 10am becuase it got to hot.
Great video and content. Very helpful, thanks
Wow, good job bro. You really know what you are doing. I'm going to do this one day soon. And I'm definitely going to be watching some more of your videos for advice and guidance. I have seen some people not even worry about vapour barrier. They are not thinking about mold at all. Great video.
Did you sealed the drainage / ventilation holes at the bottom of the walls? I can see some holes that seems to be for moisture to escape and also some rubber plugs (not sure about those)
what d you mean? im about to start conversion on sprinter?
Amazing channel, thank you so much 😊
I work for a leading motorhome manufacturing company stick with it 👍
Sir the detail and effort that is gooing in You bild is fantastic . I have to do the same but or to lazy.I do not know if you or planning on solar panels But if you do than take this advice DO NOT buy 12v panels Buy home panels 36volt or more (+- 1 euro per watt ) + a MPPT controler (victron110euro) plus some cable . Good luck with the bild
Well a 12v is mostly +-20 volt so You need a MPPT controller anyway or you loose half of the power A 36v or more kost peanuts compaired to 12v especially when You can buy them as surplus (leftover) from a installer . I have instaled them on boats Yachts and campers My 630 Watt costed 380 euro (panels)( i was lucky) + 110 euro forthe controller ad some more for cable(6carre) and a simple volt meter.You do not need a fancy controller that tells you how manny procent is still in or how much you take out . If you need more info , just ask Good luck with the build
Starting my tiny van conversion (a Suzuki Carry) you make the most sense so I'll be doing as you have done, though it's December now, and will be nearly impossible to put in insulation with out there already being condensation on the van wall, may wait until spring and carry on with my SketchUp model in the meantime. Thank you very much for the vid, did you ever go back with the humidity probe?
Did you worried about air vents in the bottom of the side walls? The moisture could get to your wool from outside the van?
Also I came across this video that you might want to look into ruclips.net/video/78wKAJMQmbM/видео.html
Did you try a bread knife (those with teeth) for cutting? For glass wool that works so maybe this also
Yeah, that what I used with our loft and sheeps wool rolls in the house but I think the only thing that would work with this stuff would be large sharp scissors or a hot wire which would melt it's way through. (which is how I believe they cut it to package)
Your doing a great job. Really enjoyed watching your van conversion so far. Is there any chance of getting some internal and external temperature readings during the winter to see how good the insulation is working.
Looking forward to seeing more work on the van when you get chance.
Have been watching your other videos. Great work.
GREAT video series. I'm so glad I found your channel as I'm starting on my van conversion. I have one question for you that I haven't seen addressed anywhere. How are you working to prevent condensation on the wheel arches (or are you)? It seems like all of the videos I've seen (including yours) just deal with insulating the floors, walls, and ceiling with only sound dampening insulation added to the wheel arches for noise reduction and vapor barrier. It seems to me this would allow the wheel arches to still act as a thermal bridge and that condensation would be likely to occur on the sound deadener covering the wheel arches since that area is likely to conduct the cold without insulation. Since my wheel arches will eventually be under my bed in the "garage" area, I won't have easy access to them to check for condensation and wipe it up as it occurs. Granted, any condensation that forms would likely just run down and sit on my flooring, but I'd still rather avoid this if possible. Any ideas about how to go about insulating the wheel arches? Thanks and I'm definitely looking forward to more van videos from you. Especially interested to see how you'll be mounting your beds to the frame.
Most likely we will box them in and fill with insulation. As in most vans they are within cupboards, condensation risk is fairly low but worth thinking about like you say.
That's the best solution I could come up with as well. Great minds think alike, lol. Thanks for the reply and looking forward to seeing how your project progresses.
good work are you now pleased with the end result?
Great information, thanks.
Hey, thanks for the video! Is there any brands you suggest for the foil sided bubble wrap and the foil tape, or would any generic brand do the same job really?
Also, I want to keep the lashing hooks that were in the floor, is foiling/taping over the holes before putting the lashing hooks/bolts back in enough, or would you suggest something else to keep a more tight seal to prevent any moisture ingress/thermal bridging (not that I think either will be any way severe.
Any feedback would be appreciated :)
Great vid pal thanks
I'm very late to this but your video has made so much sense! What type of soft insulation are you using? And which vapour barrier please? There are so many to choose from.
Thank you!
Are you happy with the insulation 2 years on? Am just about to start my van would be nice to know how you've found it and if you'd do anything different? Brilliant channel thanks for all your help
Hi great videos, and a very nice build indeed. Regarding Insulation, Q.What is the quantity of soft insulation and also reflectix and how many tubes of sealant will I require, do you have a bill of quantities please? I am looking to do the conversion / Insulation exactly like yours.
looking good.
can you do a list of all items/brands used for insulation process please.
Will try and do a blog post soon. Insulation is Diall recycled plastic, silver bubble stuff was generic amazon purchase, high temp spray adhesive and carpet tape for the temp fix of foil.
Unless someone can give an educated opinion as to why not to insulation this way - it's how I'll be doing it in the future.
Did you do a cost analysis of wool vs foam board insulation?
J you have unfortunately completely misunderstood the function and performance of a vapour barrier - it is a ... vapour barrier 😜 It works as a barrier to stop vapour passing beyond it. In the case of a van, the vapour is inside the van, and you want to prevent it from getting into your insulation layers, and condensing on the interior face of all the metalwork. So long as when you install everything your van is dry and your insulation is dry, and you face it all with a fully-sealed vapour barrier, then there will never be any moisture behind your walls, thus no condensation and no rust.
You appear to believe that the vapour barrier will be trapping moisture behind the walls, but moisture cannot get in there (because the vapour barrier stops it from getting in there). People often get confused about this, but the facts are moisture cannot get through a vapour barrier, so there will be no moisture to get trapped behind it! The only way any moisture could get behind eoukd be if a) you install wet insulation in the first place or b) you have a hole in the van body letting air and water in. They are both issues to avoid, and don't alter the basic physics of vapour barriers working as a block to any moisture passing through, and therefore ensuring there is no moisture to get trapped.
Humans create a lot of moisture just from breathing, then add in any cooking, and the moisture in the air, and that's a lot of moisture to get in behind your walls *IF YOU DO NOT INSTALL A VAPOUR BARRIER* , which then condenses on the panels behind the insulation, runs down to low points and never gets out again (potentially causing damage). It is very unlikely the van will ever get hot enough, with enough air flow through the van, for any trapped water droplets to ever evaporate and then make their way out through the insulation and van wall materials. Breathability in buildings relies on moisture being able to move easily, with little resistance, in both directions - to the inside and to the outside - and a van with an impervious external metal skin can't be made to function in that way.
Hope this helps explain to anyone confused about vapour barriers vs breathability & not trapping moisture why it is *essential* to use a vapour barrier in a van to prevent all the moisture you are going to be producing from travelling through your van wall materials, through the insulation and on to the metal panel face, where it will condense, run down the panels and sit as water droplets on the metal of your van.
😊
@@emmaslow Makes sense, IF you can insure you have a PERFECT seal. If not, you get moisture inside and it is trapped. To me it seems like it would be very hard to get a perfect seal what with all the ribs and angles in the van walls and all the taping involved.
@@gpa39 Yes but the alternative to not even trying is probably worse as the amount of moisture humans produce through breathing cooking sweating etc must be vast. Another alternative might be to build in vent holes on the exterior of the van walls near the top on both sides to allow air to flow and remove any moisture from the insulation wether you use a vapour barrier or not.
For vans, skip the vapour barriers as pointless.
@@007nadineL You sure? I'm using wool insulation which can soak up moisture might it not rot the underside of my interior wood panelling?
That insulation looks like a pair of oldfashioned big cissors would do the trick
It's dumb, but first :) Really enjoy your van conversion series. Thanks for all the info!
I'll get there first one day! ;-)
I can't deny that.
hi, could you send me a link where I can buy to the non-itching insulation wool you used to stuff the walls ? (I am living in Belgium and I can't find the product...) edit : I found your answer in another post : you used "Diall loft insulation" ; the only shop I find is "B and Q" and aparently they don't ship to Belgium ...
What type of spray adhesive do you use, any brands to recommend?
We will also be sticking some double-sided bubble reflectix to some of the bare metal areas that are a bit harder to insulate properly (i.e. parts of the sliding door without a cavity) mainly to keep the vapour barrier going, but also our thoughts are it may wick slightly less heat then leaving bare metal (I am aware the consensus is it has minimal insulation properties!). So do you think the double sided sticky tape will be enough for these spots, or would the same spray adhesive used on the soft wool work as well? (Just to clarify - where there is just reflectix on bare metal).
Great Vids! Cheers!
Great video ( I've already done my van a few years ago, using similar well thought out principles) have you had any shrinkage of your T&G ceiling boards or has the semi outdoor environment prevented them shrinking? I used some T&G in my last house and each board shrunk about 5% revealing unpainted slivers in the joins.
I had it sat for a couple of weeks in the van as it was kiln dried I guess there may have been risk of it going the other way and swelling. That said it hasn't moved yet and it has had some extremes in temp already. When i did the loft panels with same boards I actually undercoated them first so that when they did move the tongue were already white.
Good idea to use the batons first to create the breathable space but you loose width on the finished job even if only a few cm. Worth it though I guess.
Great vid..people have to remember what they are insulating for... cold or warm climate. I think that creates confusion.
What is the main difference between the two? Thanks.
If you install fans, insulate the same for hot and cold climates.
Yet another great video - so helpful. One question, by the time you've come in off the walls with the ply & insulation etc, what will the internal width of the van be? Still enough length to sleep side-to-side? Thanks
Yes, still just over 6ft for the bottom bed. There will be bunks above which will be a tad shorted due to the walls.
Ugh, me being 1,83m I guess I need to get myself this kind of van too. They are more expensive than the transits though. :(
Love your methods will definitely be using a lot of it on our built. Just curious if the moisture do get in behind the foil bubble will it get trapped by the foil bubble? Tia
If possible check my comment below Pierre Havelaar text. Any ideas about outer metal heat barrier layering?
what about condensation on yr van walls ? no worries Of the wool touching directly the wall ??
thanks great videOS
Not if the moisture can’t get there in the first place. Providing there is a continuous vapour barrier on the warm side of wall I am confident there will be no issues.
Hi. What about your solution now? Did you any checks?
Hi. At the bottom of the skin of my transit there is a vent. So this vent will be behind the ply wall in in the insulation cavity. Would you keep the vent or block it if insulating the same way as you have? Love the videos thanks!
Good video again but do you have any detail on how you went round the window please?
Great video. I do wonder though if all that work makes sense, since you'll still have windows and the whole front of the cab uninsulated. Did you do any actual temperature comparisons before and after?
Wouldn’t have helped anyway as the van was an unheated space before so no comparison. The windows have multi layer thermal blinds and curtains which will help. You are right to emphasise the cab though as it is often overlooked. 👍
It's great