Tips for Hot Climates, Off Grid: Insulation is great if you have air conditioning, but you won't run AC off grid in a van. Without AC, your best protection is SHADE and NO INSULATION. This allows the van to cool at night after the sun goes down. For shading the ROOF... Install a large rooftop rack that covers the entire van roof. Install a sheetmetal (or well painted plywood) pan under the roof-rack. Voila! Your roof is shaded, and the airgap between roof and rack-pan allows airflow and natural cooling. For shading the SIDES of the vehicle, always park with the big side door facing South, and the front of van facing West. Deploy a big awning from the roof rack, shading the S facing side of the van. However, the worst heat gains are late afternoon when the air is hottest (after 2pm) and the sun is lower in the west. This is where REFLECTIX is put to best use, deployed in the windshield and driver side window (assuming your van is parked as noted) to reflect radiant gains thru glazing. Just look at Range Rovers rigged for the Sahara... they use this exact strategy.
This strategy only works on vehicles designed to drive on the left side of the road. For those in countries who drive on the right side of the road, it will not work. Since the "big side door" is generally on the passenger side, you CANNOT park with the side doors on the south AND the front of the van facing west in a North American designed vehicle. If the front of your van is facing west, then your side door(s) will be facing north. If your side door is facing south, then the front of your van will be facing the east.
Loved ❤🎉❤ your clear and lengthy explanations on insulation. I live in Saguenay Quebec and am no stranger to cold weather. Thank you so much for all you share-
I can see your suggestion had good intentions, but the phrasing failed to accress an INTERNATIONAL audience since "big side door facing South, and the front of van facing West" does not account for all orientations internationally and make folks wonder about what part of the world and what vehicle layout you're referrring to. Better to say that the main (or "bigger", mainly used) side door should face away the equator and the front of the vehicle should face each day's sunrise if you're looking to minimize heating your vehicle from the sun, or the opppositie if you're looking to maximize heat from the sun.
My pet name for him is Guru Saint Bob... but he said he didn't want to be called a saint or a guru but I can't help it I had already named him this way in my heart
Having spent my life in the HVAC business I know a thing or two about insulation and heat transfer. What Bob says is spot on. He doesn't give a single piece of incorrect information. In hot climates jump thru every hoop you can to park in shade during daylight hours. A radiant barrier with a one inch air gap isn't going to do 20% what shade will do to keep your van cooler. And the cooler you keep it the quicker it will cool off at night.That is gospel folks. Believe it.
Tom Swinburn Thank you..building my van soon. I will be a snow bird..thanks for the tip about shade..save me money buying all the insulation stuff How do you feel about the roof?. Thanks.
I agree with Bob. Insulating the roof will be BAD in hot climes. The insulation slows the rate at which the van will lose heat once the sun is down. Remember, heat rises. Shade is the answer. If no trees, try at least to rig up a way to cover your van with canvas or some other sun blocking material. You want to leave a gap of several inches for the air to MOVE thru that area. In cold climates YEAH. Insulate the roof. That's where you want to hold heat in. Being a snowbird, moving north to south in the winter you're caught in the middle. But in general, if you plan to spend winter months in the south and summers up north I'd favor insulation in the roof. Again, it depends on the MOST time spent in one particular kind of temperature. Hot? No insulation in roof. Cold? Heck yes to the insulation in the roof. Best of luck to you.
Tom Swinburn, I'm not sure if Bob response to these videos as I'm new to the channel. You seem to know what you're doing with insulation. I'm new to insulation. I live in So. California and will use my van mostly in the summer months and maybe in Az. in the Winter for only two weeks out of the year. Before watching this video, I insulated one side of my walls with 1/2 inch Polyiso. Now that I've watched Bob's video, I now realize I probably should have done Reflectix on all walls. Instead of taking down my insulation, can I leave it and do Reflectix on the opposite wall and the roof? If I do reflectix how do I create that 3/4" gap or would you suggest using the 2 sided with air bubbles in the middle? Thank you for any of your advice. I'm in the process of learning, so any tips are welcomed.
Having lived in a travel trailer for over 13 years when I worked out of town, I learned some things about staying warm or cool in a trailer. First of all I learned that reflectix used to cover the windows made a huge difference in heating and cooling the trailer, especially cooling, and I had lots of windows. During cold weather my floor stayed cold even though I had insulation under the trailer, and the cold floor made it harder to heat the trailer. I finally put a skirt around the trailer to keep cold air from blowing under the trailer and that made a big difference. Not only did my floor stay warmer but I used less propane for heating. If you move a lot a skirt around the bottom of your vehicle might not be practical, but if you stay parked for days or weeks, a skirt around the bottom of your vehicle/trailer would help to keep your vehicle warmer in cold weather though I don’t think it would be practical or necessary in warm weather. You would have to make your own custom skirt but anything that could cover the space between the bottom of your vehicle and the ground would help. Again this would only be useful if you spend extended time in cold climates.
This is similar to camping with a hammock. A skirt around it keeps you much warmer. A tarp above, a tarp below with a skirt and you are in business. I just get 3m command hooks around the car, hook up the tarp, and weigh it down with rocks. Life is good. 😅
But also correct theory. You meet tons of people who do things wrong or suboptimally, and are doing it wrong and think there is no problem with it because they've been doing it for so long
I just wanted to say THANK YOU for making these videos. I just bought my first van after dreaming about it for a long time. Unfortunately, I know nothing about van dwelling. Your videos have been so informational and inspirational for me, they are invaluable to me. Thank you so much for helping out a clueless first timer!
I think he mentions this on the next build video...but, if you’re using Polyiso, just make a shallow slit ON THE WALL SIDE where it needs to bend (the Polyiso) and when you glue it up, push there. It will crack and fit the bend in the wall nicely 👍🏼
I had to laugh at the rolling chair comment, Bob, because it hit close to home with how I found your channel. Last month I was out of work and rolling around on a computer chair because of a broken ankle. I found your channel and am now deeply immersed in learning about how to be a nomad. Also, living life rolling around on a chair and seeing people not standing to live in a van made me go, hm it can be done. Anyways, just thought it was funny I found your channel whilst living life rolling around my home on a computer chair and then I hear it in a video. :)
I know this is old, and I don't know if you've done a high top yet- but if you look in junkyards, you can find conversion vans that are being parted out. Highly recommend. They didn't change the body on chevy express/gmc savana between roughly 1996-2016 so there are a lot of used high tops out there... I found one and got it for just a couple hundred bucks. The hardest 4 hours in my build was pulling it off the old van and getting it home. I've since cut the roof out of my 2009 savana work van and it fit great. Easy to mount with a block and tackle and plenty of sikaflex. I have carriage bolts in a dozen places also from the frame channel up through the fiberglass footing. I've primed and repainted the whole van now. It's been great so far!!! Poor man's sportsmobile.
Nice to see a video bring up warm climates, appreciate the advice. As someone who lives in Florida and is interested in this topic, most people spend half of any conversion video talking about keeping the vehicle warm and I couldn’t even begin to relate to wanting that
Good informative video Bob. It's great for folk who are new to vehicle dwelling, or people who have limited knowledge of building/renovating. For myself, this didn't add anything to my knowledge, but it was a nice re-enforcement of what I already knew. As for insulation, I decided early that everything was going to be insulated. Floor, walls, ceiling, doors, windows, and the forward bulkhead. I even insulated the underside of my bed! I perhaps could have done without the floor insulation, but it was my first go at living in a van during the winter months, and just didn't know what to expect. So I insulated everything! I live in Alberta. So this seemed a reasonable approach to combating our cold winters. Add a wood stove, and I was quite cozy during the winter. Thanks Bob for your endless knowledge on this topic. And for giving it so freely. :)
I really like the way you explain things. You are very thorough. I always enjoy watching your videos. Thanks Bob for sharing your knowledge with all of us!
I don't know if I ever thanked you for your service to boon dockets and regular campers living fulltime. I have watched your videos for at least 3 years. You have kept my dream alive during my difficult times. I hope to actually buy a cargo van next Spring and I know I'll be going back to learn rather than simply watch and enjoy.
Super video Bob. I am starting my own build on my cargo van and I live in GA. So no insulation for me. You have already saved me time and money! Thanks. Can't wait to see the rest of your build.
Working in the building trade we lifted old floors, we put down concrete then 2" polystyrene with a cement screed on top of that, yes this did prevent conductive cold transfer from below to above and also prevented heat loss downwards through the same conductive principles. Flasks have a thermal barrier all around for keeping things cold or hot. Good insulation in cold climates makes good sense, less condensation and less heat loss making heating more energy efficient. Good insulation also blocks out heat from the hot metal in summer. Plenty of ventilation from one side to the other ( through flow ) especially up close to the roof will cool a van down very quickly. Shade is great but we must not block those precious solar rays that charge our batteries to keep that fantastic fan running and cold drinks in the fridge 🤪👍
I live in Colorado where it gets cold. Insulating the floor is important. You don't need much. Simply put in 1/2 inch foam between the ribs, plastic vap, 1/4 marine ply and padded carpet. It's not much but it takes the edge off the cold. Insulation in the walls and roof is very important for heat. I use a solar powered roof fan for summer. It pulls the heat out of the van. Ofcourse this will not work for high humidity heat all night, but for low humidity high day sun heat, cool night, insulation helps the van cool down in the evening and keeps it from getting as hot during the day (Solar powered day venting really helps here.).
I LOVE LOVE LOVE your channel, your attitude, your philosophy, your advice! Thank you :) I am JUST starting my van build, live in a hot area, and I am always warm. I really appreciate you sharing your experience.
I'm so excited that I'll be able to camp again. We sold our pack goats, but have a beautiful trailer. It's almost too big for our Toyota Tundra, but is doable if you pay attention, have trailer brakes, sway bar, etc. I love it as I can stand up & we're going to make two beds in there. I have terrible joint pain & muscle pain, facet joint arthritis, etc, & just cannot sleep on a cot any longer. We have our mattress on a piece of plywood, in our house. No prob doing the same in our trailer. It has lots of air circulation due to vents we had installed & we'll be "living" outside. The trailer is just for keeping everything packed & in order for heading out into the back country. (We live in NE Nev.) With a bed & plenty of room for our 3 dogs, we're good to go! We usually cook on our 2 burner propane camp stove. We've been married 41 yrs & Hubster had it before we were married. Stil going strong. I'd like to try a solar oven. The one that's a long glass tube in a case? Anyway, I'm so excited; I couldn't wait to tell you.
Finally a presenter that doesn't have pimples & a smiley chick jumping up & down with excitement! Ahhh, life experiences. What a wonderful thing. I too have read a lot, watched alot & this guy nails it except for the fibreglass bit. Sheep's wool would be excellent to use here. I can understand the negative effect insulation has in "hot" climates & vice versa. At the end of the day this all revolves around "common sense" & "knowledge". Discussion is so important. There's also valuable info from people in the comments column. Everbody has their "angle" on things so it makes this "game of chess" a little easier to understand. Thanks for a great video.
Omg thank you so much for this video I’ve nearly cried trying to find the correct solution and information and your the only one that has set it straight and true your a blessing in disguise you really have saved me on this one 4 months on trying to decide from all 200 channels on insulation xoxoxo
That’s the one problem with so many people out there weighing in on every subject from A to Z - finding the ones who *really* know what they’re talking about! Bob is definitely *that* one - and he’s also built an amazing network of others to help, and connected to others in one huge web. I’m lucky that I stumbled upon Bob pretty quickly in starting to seriously research RV life in general here on RUclips. I was pretty turned off to him initially, but I recognized the value he was offering, and ended up really hoping to meet him one day on the road.
Good discussion video, Bob, and I learned something about insulation. However, not everything you say may be correct. The stiff Polyiso, and the more flexible XPS insulation was well explained. However, you lost me at 11:34, when you said to use fiberglass batting insulation to stuff between the ribs. Other van builders said not to use this. They said that fiberglass batting works well in houses, but is a dismal failure in vans because vans have moisture condensation on the inside due to metal exterior, and the fiberglass batting soaks up and holds this moisture which turns to mold. 1. There are two alternatives to fiberglass for stuffing the metal ribs on van wall: Spray foam - cheap price, R value is high, but chemical smell takes time to dissipate. Black Sheeps Wool Batting - higher price, no toxic smell, does not get mold, good insulation. 2. Ceiling insulation and treatment: You can buy Silent Silver, or Silent Blue which are 1/8" thick rolls of closed cell neoprene (like Polyiso but very bendable) coated with mylar silver foil. It has some sound deadening, thermal, and moisture barrier properties. Stick this on ceiling, then some plastic ceiling tile that looks like metal tin tiles, paint it up and done. Quick and cheap solution for the interim period prior to raising your roof. 4. Floor solution: Subfloor plywood. Paint it. Put some plastic moisture barrier sheeting over it. Grind down slightly any carriage bolts sticking out - just a tad without compromising structural integrity. Add Silent Silver underlayment on this, taking care to tape seams well. Put in click lock bamboo engineered wood (it is real wood) from Home Depot. Tools needed is a push bar $11 and hammer and saw. No glue, no nails. Push bar is a useful weapon for self defense too. Fits like a dream. These are narrow strips, comes in a Tiger stripe natural design, and very thin layer. I did this for my Class C RV and still flawless after 5 yrs. Optional molding trim around with wood or metal on base. Floor stays nice and warm even in howling winds, rain storms, whatever. Add small carpet on top for color. What I would love to know more about is sound deadening materials. They have to be cheap, lightweight, and be effective sound proofing. Most materials sold are very pricey, and heavy. Ok for cars but not vans.
Some great ideas there, thanks for posting. I’d add that cork is fantastic for insulation as well sound deadening, and is a great, durable flooring surface as well - plus it’s very environmentally friendly and sustainable. That’s the direction I think I would be going. It isn’t a cure-all for sound, but it’s good enough for floors that it is required by San Francisco building code as underlayment for hardwood floors in multistory apartment buildings. Just one correction: bamboo is definitely *not* wood; it is a grass. It’s still very strong and durable.
@@wendyannh great idea about the cork. A few years back, I installed a pricey but 100% green and waterproof lvt floor. Cork was used as the bottom layer of each plank. That might be the perfect product for a van floor and the cost wouldn't be prohibitive in such a small space. Thanks!
14:20 !!! YES .. Finally somebody agrees with me!! Do NOT bother insulating the floor! .. I am putting down 1/2" pressure treat plywood then 3/4" (either pine or fir ply plywood (1/4" 20 with rivet nuts, and flat head bolts) .... As my van build will be modular and still used for transporting arog or even smaller vehicles, and the heavy plywood REALLY strengthens the floor, I used this same plywood set up for a big flatbed I made year ago and it's lasts forever, I will also have a few "pockets style" tie downs flush with the floor. Plywood is about R1 per inch so I'll have a bit over R1 insulation!! :) in the floor.
Awesome video, and spot-on about the nature of insulation! I'm seeing a lot of comments about keeping things cooler though. I built a van in Florida that I ended up taking to Colorado(...and who knows after this). I did some research, watched a lot of RUclips builds, and learned from my own experiences and mistakes as I went along. I also believe that cargo is the way to go. I got a passenger van because the price, timing, and availability was just right at the time, but I almost immediately covered all the windows with radiant insulation and have yet to remove it, even here in Colorado. I did the walls, doors, and ceiling with a combination of 1/2" foam and fiberglass as well(and a little spray foam here and there), and it's definitely true that the insulation will make it take longer to heat up but will hold the heat longer. I found this to be okay for me while in Florida because I was able to stay in the van a bit longer in the morning before it got too hot, and then I'd usually end up driving it anyway. We're talking thirty minutes to an hour after sunrise at the latest before insulating and as late as 9-10 am afterward in late May-early June(90+ days that year). I also insulated my floor because I found that it wasn't the cold that was the problem, but the heat coming up from the floor, mostly after running, that would make the van heat up like an oven. Nothing like driving all day, stopping to rest, and then having the hot drivetrain and exhaust warming the van up on an already hot and humid night! This also helped a lot with sound, as I initially had nothing but metal and undercoat under my feet in some parts. If you're familiar with Florida, or most other southern states, you know how much heat the pavement absorbs on a hot day. It's not uncommon to see the roads and parking lots steaming after a quick shower. I stayed in the van for about a month in Florida, then took it through Texas and up to Colorado. My best advice if you're going to leave the van during the day in the heat is to try and park in the shade(obviously), cover ALL your windows(I bought the material and made my own custom-fit sunshades). If you're going to be in/using the van, do the same and leave the side and rear doors opened and facing Away from the sun, and use a fan if you have one. A little airflow goes a long way! Isolate the cab! This is also great for sleeping comfortably at night, and it helps keep your heat in on cold nights too. There are many ways you can do this. I found a set of thermal blackout curtains that matched my interior walls perfectly and went with that setup. Even with the front and side windows covered, you'd be surprised by the rush of heat(or cold) that pours over you when you open the curtains in the morning. Solar is also great! Leave a gap and it makes a bit of a barrier from the sun beating directly onto the roof(every little bit counts, right?), and you can use it to run vent fans to help keep it cooler. As far as the cold goes, I've only spent a few nights down into the lower 30's. I have the Mr. Heater Portable Buddy but have barely needed it on those nights. If I did use it, it was usually just for a few minutes, and then just the pilot and my body heat kept things comfortable. I'm sure colder nights will call for more, but I haven't faced them yet, and it seems like I am fairly well prepared. Hopefully, this is all helpful to someone
I totally agree with your take on insulation. The thing everyone forgets about a van is that a van is a rolling metal box with two big thermal holes front(cab/windshled) and back(door windows). So, you're really not starting well to begin with. As a BPI certified building analyst, I have had numerous conversations explaining to people that putting reflectix directly against insulation actually reduces R value because reflectix is a really good conductor. One thing I do like in a van is rockwool insualtion, because it can be compressed, and made to fit on any nooks and crannies pretty well. I have also found aerogel to be really good for walls, though, it is still pricey. I usually go with rockwool for the nooks and foam for the walls.
I know a lot of people will not listen to you about insulating the floor of your van. My father taught me that wisdom is being smart enough to listen to someone who knows. And I believe that you know what you're talking about. Keep up the good work Bob bless you
Thank you for your insight! I just learned about reflectix and I feel terrible for those who installed that in their van build thinking it would be insulation.
Thank you for making such a great informative video regarding insulation. I had done a little reading about conductive, convention and radiant heat transfer before watching this video but was still a bit confused as to how to insulate. Living and building our van here in Australia I had the impression (before listening to your advice) that I should insulate against the metal with XPS and would then use dual foil reflective bubble wrap (the Aussie version of Reflectix) stuck on the inner side of the foam before installing the walls, but the last 5 mins of your video was definitely the most helpful for me personally and I'm glad you mentioned hotter climates not to go heavy on the insulation because that one piece of info about how insulation can work against us in keeping the heat locked inside made a tonne of sense and was the determining factor in choosing just to insulate with just one layer of reflective bubble wrap with an air gap between it and the outer metal body of the vehicle. Your advise definitely makes the most logical sense to me and is thankfully the cheapest method also. I am hopeful it all works out well if we ever find ourselves venturing into the Aussie outback in our converted Toyota Hiace Commuter minibus. Thanks again!
ProMotoLife Yes! If he didn't say that I would have repeated the same mistake that other youtubers are showing to do. Thanks Bob! Now I understand why not glue reflectix directly. Makes sense.
We worked in steel shipping containers in Afghanistan and they got unbearably hot inside during the day, and even having air conditioning wouldn't keep the heat at bay. Those a/c units ran nonstop trying to cool the containers. I shipped over several rolls of Reflectix and lined the inside of the shipping containers with that. Those shipping containers are corrugated so that gave me nice 1 inch air gaps down the sides and across the roof. After doing just the Reflectix, the temp difference was extremely noticeable and the a/c units could then keep the box cooler and not work as hard. The explanation about the conductive heat works the same for thick insulation. It will keep the heat from coming in as fast, but once it's absorbed the heat, it holds it in. Thanks for the great videos. I'm planning my retirement vehicle and I'm collecting other people ideas and experiences to help me make the right mods to the van.
Up in Canada some people put reflectix under their floor slabs. On my neighbors shop he did that and the concrete set up way faster than the finisher was prepared for. I tried an experiment on a cold basement floor. Standing barefoot my feet got cold fast. Then I stood on some reflectix and was amazed by the heat sent back to my feet. I know the difference between conductive, convection, radiant heat, and agree with you. But the sun is not the only producer of radiant heat, so radiant heat generated in the van can be reflected back into the van. Anyway, well done.
Radiant heat barriers in association with concrete slabs have been an even worse practice than in a van, and promoted by some radiant barrier manufacturers, though less often now after building industry research and US federal legal action started to come down on them. It has essentially zero value in that application, particularly compared to EPS and similar actual insulation products being used. If you stand on a radiant barrier in a cool environment, you should be able to feel some radiated heat coming back to you. Move a few inches away, and it again has no effect because your body doesn't radiate sufficient heat for the material to have any consequential effect even at that proximity.
Thank you Bob for the education and rationale for everything you are saying. I totally trust your advice and appreciate how clear and reasonable your instructions are.
What a FN stupid response. you are definitely not a rocket scientist. Why would you post that comment ? there millions of people that would find this useful , but you are a idiot/FOOL .
Thank you, so many people use reflection incorrectly. I'm planning a van build in the near future and this is great information. Taking a year just to plan my van build and watch as many of these videos as possible has been great. I am on about redesign #10. Lol
Great video Bob. I would add, to make sure you circulate plenty of dry air, in either heating or cooling cases. Fresh dry air if at all possible. Promotes comfort, and helps to avoid mold and mildew.
Until the mold and mildew is filtered out, the ventilation system may be spreading the spores. To keep cool on a motorcycle, I used to wet a denim jacket for my ride home from work. The denim jacket would pick up crap from the air and within a week would stink when wet from all the organic matter, mold, and mildew floating in, and filtered from the air.
very informative especially when you listen to the person who has the experience for a long period of time like him. I hit subscribe and will be watching more of your videos and learn. thank you!
I want to add to the discussion on your post about some pretty disgusting comments and even worse actual posts tearing people down in the most personal and horrid way. Please keep doing what you do. I live a world away and you have affected my life in the meaningful way. Those people that seek to derail what they do not understand amaze me at there lack of maturity.
Accurate info on polyiso, reflectix and thermal bridging. Good job Bob. Inaccurate info about: - No floor insulation. You must insulate all six parts of a box. - Fiber insulation is low R value, and a rodent and bug trap. Spray foam instead. - Letting the "hot out". A well-insulated van won't let the heat in. Run fans or AC or heater to regulate temperature.
Your inexperience is showing... It depends on the box, what you want the box to do and how well, if it is consistently oriented the same way or is always in the same environment, or whether there are other variables at work. Your spray foam is probably low R-value compared to my roofing foam, but that doesn't mean it's an inaccurate suggestion or bad choice depending on application and durability. Mineral wool is probably the greatest insulation ever developed for safety, effectiveness, longevity, and being mostly impervious to water as well as fire, and inedible to insects, but it may not be the best choice for the thin walls in a van. Foams have a long history of insect infestation, particularly being hollowed out by ants.
wendyannh Sealed away from the outside, though, they can be fantastic. It all depends on the particulars of the application. Inside a box in a sealed cavity, they can do very well indeed.
Reflected Miles Insulting reply’s show that you are not using the scientific method of facts and data. Rather than saying am inexperienced, which is not true, you can say you disagree for the facts you present: 1) It is incorrect to say the orientation of the box matters because temperature difference in independent of gravitation. 2) Foam insulation has up to 50% more R value per inch. 3) Foam is almost immune from rodent and bug attack. 4) Fiber insulation has condensation nuclei, which accumulates moisture molecules if a vapor barrier is not properly installed.
@@tdrager No one using the scientific method would make unconditional claims that no thermal engineer would make, at least one who had lots of experience. Insect intrusion in foam, for example, has been so significant that manufacturers have scrambled for solutions and contracts / warranties have been cancelled where there is any possibility of them getting access into it. YT won't let me link to examples, but anyone can access numerous discussions of this online. Any insulated wall assembly involves three-dimensional airflow networks that cannot be modeled effectively. The speed of the airflow and what is carried along in it is affected by temperature as well as by other forces at work, and orientation is not principally about gravity but the effects of environmental exposure (south vs. north, etc.), so numerous other engineering factors have to be accounted for to ensure the health and performance of an assembly, like the ability of an assembly to dry, not just trying to exclude the possibility of moisture entry.
What a legend! I’m following your directions, as best I can. My windows inserts are quilted blackout blinds with a reflectix layer against the glass, and I’m lining my walls and ceiling with polyester underfloor insulation. Kia Ora.
Very interesting, thank you Bob. Years ago my family of origin had an RV for recreational camping, and from experience I concur with what you said about insulation holding the heat. Had an uncle insist once that I needed insulation to keep heat out in summer. I had already found out the camper was cooler without It, it was removed after water damage,, and the camper was so noticably cooler without it, that I did not replace it when we restored the camper. My uncle had good intentions, citing his expertise in insulation as a builder, but I FELT the difference, I was staying in the camper and working hard in it (physically) during the restoration which took an entire summer.
they have the same problem in Germany with prefabricated houses, the walls are light, wood, particle board, and insulation material like mineral wool or styrofoam (no MASS), the insulation works very well in winter. but not in summer. Once you have the heat IN the house, you can't get it out if the nights are "tropical". And those nights become more. (heat waves etc). in summer construction becomes very important, brick and mortar (MASS) helps. It takes much longer to heat up. Of course in combination with a large roof that shades the windows (in summer, not in winter when the sun stands deeper).
You are a good teacher Bob. Don't stop talking and explaining it the way you do. That is really helpful and for some of us who are new to this, it's very valuable. Please stay the way you are! Thank you. God Bless you!
You made sooo much sense, I'm from a tropical super hot country and I always wondered why we don't insulate to keep cool inside like in America and now I know why ! It makes it worse in hot weather ! Why didn't I think of that ? !
@@5jwiqiojwio217 Well, it gets hot and cold at different times of the year here in the US, too, you know 😜 To different levels in different parts of the country, and time of day, but we certainly don’t escape at least *some* variation everywhere that I know of. For those who want to always stay in warmer climates, they simply have to move around for summer and winter. So, you can still follow the recommendations Bob has made, wherever you are - and the suggestions some of the commenters above have added for those who are in between and may need both.
I am glad I found this vid! Thanks! I am in Texas and have a nice 199 Chevy conversion van that I am getting ready to dwell in, mostly in East Texas where the pine trees are thick. I dwelled in my van six months a couple years ago in the winter and never used a heater! I WAS thinking wrong about insulating her, but not happy about having to remove the walls to do so. Now, adding a little of my own experience after 3 vans total, I know that VENTILATION and a little acclimation works wonders for the heat. It's about air flow....
For odd spaces you might also consider Polyurethane foam used for sound isolation, has a value just under R7 and loses a little bit over the next few months, maybe down to 6. But you can spray it into whatever space you want, if you can afford the price of it.
Stop going on about him repeating himself hes thinking as hes filming, i do this too when explaining health stuff to people i repeat to pick up my train of thought on certain subjects. no big deal so what. have some respect hes taking the time to help all you can do is make rude comments about him repeating himself. Honestly people have lost their manners appreciate hes even making them to help everyone his info is invaluable.
I couldn’t agree more. Bob gives a *massive* amount of time and energy to help others, and the very least those of us who learn from his videos can do is simply to not criticize. *Constructive* criticism, in the form of feedback about, say, technical issues and suggestions for improvements, are one thing, but grousing is just plain rude. That is a real person who has done a lot of work to post these videos, and they do read many of the comments, if not most or all - and are very hurt when people complain. Be nice. Even when offering constructive criticism, I still make very sure to thank the person for their hard work and information, and ideally comment on some aspect I found particularly helpful. If any given RUclipsr or video annoys a person, they should just shut it off and go watch something else. I admit I don’t always do this so well myself, but it is certainly what I strive for. It is, however, very worthwhile to follow people who actually know what they are talking about, in depth, even if it means watching someone one doesn’t find as compelling as someone else - and they simply don’t come better than Bob for vanlife and boondocking in general.
Thanks sooooo much! I just bought my van and it looks very much like yours in this video. I have the wood slats and metal cab partition. I’m looking forward to following your build!
Totally agree about your insulation views. The only thing I would add is that if you are in a small van less insulation is fine. I have a 1/2 inch insulation in my Transit Connect on my walls and ceiling in Vancouver Canada and my van is plenty warm.
I drive a transit connect for work and thought it might be alright for living in, except at 6'1" I couldn't even lay down in it so I'll just stick to my '88 Volvo 240. Greeting from Victoria 😘
Dude I live in Arizona and you saved me a ton of money doing insulation. I had this tick in the back of my mind thinking about insulation possibly turning my van into an oven and you just confirmed that. All the videos I've seen cover insulating vans as an important thing to do. I've never done anything like this. With winter coming, it's not so important to insulate so I was going to do it next May of June, but I will redress my situation around that time. For now I'm going to use Reflectix and do more research for solar systems, power, and possibly moving to a cooler climate altogether. Thank you so much!
I just got an 2006 ford E250 its a beast on gas. Has rot behind all four wheels at very bottom of body. But this will be my 1st van life van. Starting now so this video is very helpful. Thanks Bob
Thumbs up. Say Bob, in regards to insulating in hot weather, all you really have to do to get the heat out at night is open the doors, or switch on the fantastic fan on your roof.
I'm so glad I found you, Bob! This is my first Van conversion ever and you have calmed my nerves with your knowledge. Thank you. I'm definitely subscribed.
i've been in steel shipping containers in Hawaii heat and insulated reefer containers too . The reefer (not even running) is Much cooler in the summer sun than the naked steel container . So I would say DO Insulate for hot weather . No ?? maybe its mainly the roof slowing the conduction (?)
not sure on that one, but i think his point was mostly that you cant really achieve the required level of isolation, ie sealing up all the gaps, to keep out the immense heat coming in from outside, so its not really worth bothering with, and it´ll slow the heat transfer back out of the van a lot more, since the delta is much smaller then. Im pretty damn sure a purpose built reefer is insulated a whole lot better than you could ever get in any van.
Thank you Bob, I am several years from obtaining & glamping out a sprinter or box van, and decades from retirement. From experience camping in minivans, I know that I want to invest much of my initial outfitting strategy/resources toward van insulation & HVAC, before the van fills up and trips are underway and it is too imbedded to change. My wife and I are weekend warrior mountain enthusiasts and I am a lifer backcountry skier so warm morning functionality from insulating a camping van is a priority over giving into RV abundance. I had my heart set on finding a way to power a heated van floor until watching this video, and discovering your highly credible and ill opinion against bothering with floor insulation. My desire for insulating the floor is in preventing what I had imagined to be enormous radiant heat losses to the cold ground/hot pavement via steel chassis, etc. While the envelope calculations for DC powered radiant floor heat favors diesel forced air heating over an immense battery payload, there is no quiet diesel powered cooling solution, and a sizable DC power source seems necessary for four season van HVAC anyway. I Imagine some of the energy storage penalty of DC electric heat could be decreased by a combination of preventing floor heat losses, zoning off the front cabin, and the favorable efficiency of radiant vs forced air heating methods. I would love to hear your opinion on the following ideas and questions. Is installing electric radiant over an R 20-ish floor possible? Is maintaining compressive integrity of under floor insulation an impossible feat? Is insulating from the floor's underside feasible? Is the chassis thermal bridge too strong to be blocked by insulation?
Hi Bob, I love your channel! And here you are dam right! I've made my camper vans for over 40 years and insolation is good for cold area's, but keep the heat in at night in warm area's. My next van is comming up in a fiew months and I think of spraying foam in the beams to avoid cold barriers, but I'm hesitating for in case I have an accident. When they have to weld the pannels to repear then the foam gets in flame ... What is your opinion? Thanks for your interesting info !
No what he said was that it reflectix would reflect heat, not insulate. Insulation is completely different! Its not going to work for cold climates unless you plan on using a van as a freezer.
Peaches: he said plain reflectix wouldn't work as it needs space of 1/2 ' between.....and then he said you could put bubble wrap to fill the space up inbetween and then reflectix would work. So the question remains what to choose for your insulation. I lived in Colorado and the winters get below 0. so I would put up plastic and blankets on the windows....if I had known then, why I would have used bubble wrap perhaps and then another material in the windows.
I understood what Bob said about Reflextic to mean if you put the gap in it will reflect but if you don't put a gap in it won't. Either way it won't insulate. Cheers!
Excellent videos. The redundancy displayed while explaining conducted vs radiated heat, oh my! Thanks Mr. Whoopie lol. Your videos are interesting and inspiring. Thank you for sharing.
I'm surprised you didn't mention spray foam. I had the inside of my 94 Chevy G30 Cargo van sprayed out for around $300. 1-1 1/2" throughout, and it worked like a charm. Even using a little buddy heater would roast you out unless you kept the roof vent open - and this was Alaska/Yukon during the winter...
I got Spray Cell done professionally from my dads work friend. 250$. Roasting in there with Mr Buddy, and very very well sound insulated! Only problem is the front of the van is not nearly as well insulated (cockpit). How did you get around that?
@@violagentsch True - some may not. But some people who live in Vans live in 60-70 thousand and up dollar vans. Some people realize that insulating a van - or trailer upfront will save them many times that amount in heating/cooling costs over the lifetime of the Van. Not to mention the reduced road noise (assuming the person actually drove it, and didn't park it under a bridge forever). There's all sorts of creative solutions, spray foam is but one...
@@garretv7247 I was thinking about sprayfoaming the inside of my doors. I've also ordered slightly insulated curtains to go between the cab and cargo area
@@garretv7247 I am in the process of designing our ford transit van into a camper for travelling. I am building a 2x6 wall inbetween the front and back. This will have a pocket door that will be used as my pantry. When closed I have all my spices, cooking needs, plus the wall will be insulated. Still useable for storage plus insulted to keep living area easily temperature controlled. When driving, I can open door to help heat/cool the back.
When we insulated our truck bed camper, we put two sheets of blue max R-5 and one cheep white R3, then lauan and covered the lauan with indoor/outdoor carpet. It is about R15 to R17 and works great(no reflective sheets). Our truck bed camper holds 6 ten foot kayaks and our camping gear and sleeps 5 after we remove the kayaks. With the Kayaks it only sleeps two. 100% right Bob.
@Obie Brown - I am wondering the same thing! I am in the South where it's often sunny, hot, and humid but does get down to 30-40 degrees F (cold to me!) in the winters. Wintertime cold in my area is cold and humid. I'm so confused on insulating, solar, etc. Most videos seem to focus on freezing cold environments...
Finally, someone who explains it well on reflectix xD. I been looking at countless youtubers and its only this channel and another channel that focuses on having at least .5 inch gap between the surface and reflectix
I've been thinking about this for a while. In theory, it seems to me as though Reflectix might be all we need. Let me explain. If we heat the interior of the vehicle during the colder temperatures, the same reflective properties of Reflectix that keep the interior cool during hot weather should work in inverse, and keep the interior warm in cold weather. In other words, the heat we produce via propane heater (or other source) should be reflected around inside of the vehicle and keep it warm. I understand that Reflectix needs an air gap to be beneficial, so I believe I may have come up with a solution. I have been thinking about using Reflectix over the van ribs (in place of sheet insulation covered with paneling) and securing it intermittently to the ribs with high heat silicone and silicone washers to act as spacers. The silicone should act as a thermal barrier at the attachment point since it is a superb heat insulator (think silicone kitchen spatula), and the spacers will provide the air gap required. I do not question your experience, Bob. Quite the contrary, I greatly respect you and your opinion, and I am extremely grateful for your videos. I am merely wondering if you have ever attempted a set up similar to what I have laid out above or if you may have an opinion about the feasibility of my idea. Someone please let me know if my logic is faulty.
Just throwing this out there for thought, are you planning an all reflectix interior ? If you put up paneling, cabinets etc you would be loosing the air space on the interior. If your thinking vapor barrier to (minimize) condensation there are cheaper alternatives.
jniska Good thinking. I'm not sure about paneling, but it seems to me that if I make my cabinets open in the back...maybe covered in netting or something similar, the Reflectix should work. I suppose instead of paneling I could drape a synthetic fabric (to keep mold at bay) in front of the Reflectix. I think the Reflectix should still work even if I glue the fabric directly to it. Shouldn't it? I believe it's usually covered in home installations. Thanks for pointing that out though. I hadn't given much thought to that part of the equation
After doing some research, I found out that it's not the foil substance that is responsible for the heat stopping abilities of the Reflectix, it is the reflective surface. So adhering any non-reflective material to one side of the surface of Reflectix would severely impact the performance of Reflectix on that one side. Adhering material directly to foil basically renders it useless on the covered side. Interestingly enough, I believe this could have a desirable effect IF the Reflectix panels were made so that the shiny side could face in OR out depending on climate (temporary mounting via foam tape or silicone coated neodymium magnets for instance). To clarify, during winter months, the shiny side would face in and reflect the heat and the covered side would face out and absorb heat instead of reflecting what little heat there may be. In summer months, the shiny side would face out and reflect the heat outward, and the covered side would absorb the heat of the interior instead of reflecting it around inside. The same premise should hold true when using foam panels that have foil on one side. If we install them so that we can reverse the insulation depending on climate, I think it would make for optimal insulation.
I love you Bob!!! You are wonderful! Never stop being you (which I know you never would!) Lol I love your video's and watch them all the time! You are very entertaining and are so smart! I hope I will be able to meet you someday!!! Thank you for all your great advice!!! ☺
Tips for Hot Climates, Off Grid: Insulation is great if you have air conditioning, but you won't run AC off grid in a van. Without AC, your best protection is SHADE and NO INSULATION. This allows the van to cool at night after the sun goes down.
For shading the ROOF... Install a large rooftop rack that covers the entire van roof. Install a sheetmetal (or well painted plywood) pan under the roof-rack. Voila! Your roof is shaded, and the airgap between roof and rack-pan allows airflow and natural cooling.
For shading the SIDES of the vehicle, always park with the big side door facing South, and the front of van facing West. Deploy a big awning from the roof rack, shading the S facing side of the van. However, the worst heat gains are late afternoon when the air is hottest (after 2pm) and the sun is lower in the west. This is where REFLECTIX is put to best use, deployed in the windshield and driver side window (assuming your van is parked as noted) to reflect radiant gains thru glazing.
Just look at Range Rovers rigged for the Sahara... they use this exact strategy.
This strategy only works on vehicles designed to drive on the left side of the road. For those in countries who drive on the right side of the road, it will not work. Since the "big side door" is generally on the passenger side, you CANNOT park with the side doors on the south AND the front of the van facing west in a North American designed vehicle. If the front of your van is facing west, then your side door(s) will be facing north. If your side door is facing south, then the front of your van will be facing the east.
Loved ❤🎉❤ your clear and lengthy explanations on insulation. I live in Saguenay Quebec and am no stranger to cold weather. Thank you so much for all you share-
I can see your suggestion had good intentions, but the phrasing failed to accress an INTERNATIONAL audience since "big side door facing South, and the front of van facing West" does not account for all orientations internationally and make folks wonder about what part of the world and what vehicle layout you're referrring to. Better to say that the main (or "bigger", mainly used) side door should face away the equator and the front of the vehicle should face each day's sunrise if you're looking to minimize heating your vehicle from the sun, or the opppositie if you're looking to maximize heat from the sun.
You're the kind of wild eyed sensei I'm looking for to guide me through this. Thanks!
Please supply a link to ban build #1. Thanks
My pet name for him is Guru Saint Bob... but he said he didn't want to be called a saint or a guru but I can't help it I had already named him this way in my heart
Having spent my life in the HVAC business I know a thing or two about insulation and heat transfer. What Bob says is spot on. He doesn't give a single piece of incorrect information. In hot climates jump thru every hoop you can to park in shade during daylight hours. A radiant barrier with a one inch air gap isn't going to do 20% what shade will do to keep your van cooler. And the cooler you keep it the quicker it will cool off at night.That is gospel folks. Believe it.
Shade, shade, shade. I'm not there yet but a shade system incorporated with tilted solar panels is top priority in my planning
Tom Swinburn Thank you..building my van soon. I will be a snow bird..thanks for the tip about shade..save me money buying all the insulation stuff How do you feel about the roof?. Thanks.
Tom Swinburn thanks..your reply will save me a lot of time and money.
I agree with Bob. Insulating the roof will be BAD in hot climes. The insulation slows the rate at which the van will lose heat once the sun is down. Remember, heat rises. Shade is the answer. If no trees, try at least to rig up a way to cover your van with canvas or some other sun blocking material. You want to leave a gap of several inches for the air to MOVE thru that area. In cold climates YEAH. Insulate the roof. That's where you want to hold heat in. Being a snowbird, moving north to south in the winter you're caught in the middle. But in general, if you plan to spend winter months in the south and summers up north I'd favor insulation in the roof. Again, it depends on the MOST time spent in one particular kind of temperature. Hot? No insulation in roof. Cold? Heck yes to the insulation in the roof. Best of luck to you.
Tom Swinburn, I'm not sure if Bob response to these videos as I'm new to the channel. You seem to know what you're doing with insulation. I'm new to insulation. I live in So. California and will use my van mostly in the summer months and maybe in Az. in the Winter for only two weeks out of the year. Before watching this video, I insulated one side of my walls with 1/2 inch Polyiso. Now that I've watched Bob's video, I now realize I probably should have done Reflectix on all walls. Instead
of taking down my insulation, can I leave it and do Reflectix on the opposite wall and the roof? If I do reflectix how do I create that 3/4" gap or would you suggest using the 2 sided with air bubbles in the middle? Thank you for any of your advice. I'm in the process of learning, so any tips are welcomed.
When I was a kid my dad told me “beards come with years of wisdom”. Thanks for proving the legacy to be true. Much love from Seattle!
Having lived in a travel trailer for over 13 years when I worked out of town, I learned some things about staying warm or cool in a trailer. First of all I learned that reflectix used to cover the windows made a huge difference in heating and cooling the trailer, especially cooling, and I had lots of windows. During cold weather my floor stayed cold even though I had insulation under the trailer, and the cold floor made it harder to heat the trailer. I finally put a skirt around the trailer to keep cold air from blowing under the trailer and that made a big difference. Not only did my floor stay warmer but I used less propane for heating.
If you move a lot a skirt around the bottom of your vehicle might not be practical, but if you stay parked for days or weeks, a skirt around the bottom of your vehicle/trailer would help to keep your vehicle warmer in cold weather though I don’t think it would be practical or necessary in warm weather. You would have to make your own custom skirt but anything that could cover the space between the bottom of your vehicle and the ground would help. Again this would only be useful if you spend extended time in cold climates.
This is similar to camping with a hammock. A skirt around it keeps you much warmer. A tarp above, a tarp below with a skirt and you are in business. I just get 3m command hooks around the car, hook up the tarp, and weigh it down with rocks. Life is good. 😅
In really cold climate you could shovel up a skirt from snow, thanks for that idea!
Just don't run the car with the tailpipe obstructed.
A. W. Thompson then you’ll really get the chills
Brilliant!
I've learned so much from this channel and I'm getting closer and closer to my dreams of freedom.
What I love and truly appreciate most about your advice Bob is that it's born out of years and years of experience. Thank you so very much.
Exactly, don't catch me a fish, teach me how to catch my own:)
Finally someone says it, that has some gravitas in the community. It drives me crazy, all these van builders using reflexics in the wrong way.
But also correct theory.
You meet tons of people who do things wrong or suboptimally, and are doing it wrong and think there is no problem with it because they've been doing it for so long
I just wanted to say THANK YOU for making these videos. I just bought my first van after dreaming about it for a long time. Unfortunately, I know nothing about van dwelling. Your videos have been so informational and inspirational for me, they are invaluable to me. Thank you so much for helping out a clueless first timer!
I think he mentions this on the next build video...but, if you’re using Polyiso, just make a shallow slit ON THE WALL SIDE where it needs to bend (the Polyiso) and when you glue it up, push there. It will crack and fit the bend in the wall nicely 👍🏼
I had to laugh at the rolling chair comment, Bob, because it hit close to home with how I found your channel. Last month I was out of work and rolling around on a computer chair because of a broken ankle. I found your channel and am now deeply immersed in learning about how to be a nomad. Also, living life rolling around on a chair and seeing people not standing to live in a van made me go, hm it can be done.
Anyways, just thought it was funny I found your channel whilst living life rolling around my home on a computer chair and then I hear it in a video. :)
I know this is old, and I don't know if you've done a high top yet- but if you look in junkyards, you can find conversion vans that are being parted out. Highly recommend. They didn't change the body on chevy express/gmc savana between roughly 1996-2016 so there are a lot of used high tops out there... I found one and got it for just a couple hundred bucks. The hardest 4 hours in my build was pulling it off the old van and getting it home. I've since cut the roof out of my 2009 savana work van and it fit great. Easy to mount with a block and tackle and plenty of sikaflex. I have carriage bolts in a dozen places also from the frame channel up through the fiberglass footing. I've primed and repainted the whole van now. It's been great so far!!! Poor man's sportsmobile.
Nice to see a video bring up warm climates, appreciate the advice. As someone who lives in Florida and is interested in this topic, most people spend half of any conversion video talking about keeping the vehicle warm and I couldn’t even begin to relate to wanting that
Good informative video Bob. It's great for folk who are new to vehicle dwelling, or people who have limited knowledge of building/renovating. For myself, this didn't add anything to my knowledge, but it was a nice re-enforcement of what I already knew. As for insulation, I decided early that everything was going to be insulated. Floor, walls, ceiling, doors, windows, and the forward bulkhead. I even insulated the underside of my bed! I perhaps could have done without the floor insulation, but it was my first go at living in a van during the winter months, and just didn't know what to expect. So I insulated everything! I live in Alberta. So this seemed a reasonable approach to combating our cold winters. Add a wood stove, and I was quite cozy during the winter. Thanks Bob for your endless knowledge on this topic. And for giving it so freely. :)
Man I appreciate you Bob. Your channel has been a blessing to me learning how to put my van together. Thank you much.
I really like the way you explain things. You are very thorough. I always enjoy watching your videos. Thanks Bob for sharing your knowledge with all of us!
I don't know if I ever thanked you for your service to boon dockets and regular campers living fulltime. I have watched your videos for at least 3 years. You have kept my dream
alive during my difficult times. I hope to actually buy a cargo van next Spring and I know I'll be going back to learn rather than simply watch and enjoy.
Super video Bob. I am starting my own build on my cargo van and I live in GA. So no insulation for me. You have already saved me time and money! Thanks. Can't wait to see the rest of your build.
Working in the building trade we lifted old floors, we put down concrete then 2" polystyrene with a cement screed on top of that, yes this did prevent conductive cold transfer from below to above and also prevented heat loss downwards through the same conductive principles. Flasks have a thermal barrier all around for keeping things cold or hot. Good insulation in cold climates makes good sense, less condensation and less heat loss making heating more energy efficient. Good insulation also blocks out heat from the hot metal in summer. Plenty of ventilation from one side to the other ( through flow ) especially up close to the roof will cool a van down very quickly. Shade is great but we must not block those precious solar rays that charge our batteries to keep that fantastic fan running and cold drinks in the fridge 🤪👍
Australia needs you Bob.
I live in Colorado where it gets cold. Insulating the floor is important. You don't need much. Simply put in 1/2 inch foam between the ribs, plastic vap, 1/4 marine ply and padded carpet. It's not much but it takes the edge off the cold. Insulation in the walls and roof is very important for heat. I use a solar powered roof fan for summer. It pulls the heat out of the van. Ofcourse this will not work for high humidity heat all night, but for low humidity high day sun heat, cool night, insulation helps the van cool down in the evening and keeps it from getting as hot during the day (Solar powered day venting really helps here.).
I LOVE LOVE LOVE your channel, your attitude, your philosophy, your advice! Thank you :) I am JUST starting my van build, live in a hot area, and I am always warm. I really appreciate you sharing your experience.
I'm so excited that I'll be able to camp again. We sold our pack goats, but have a beautiful trailer. It's almost too big for our Toyota Tundra, but is doable if you pay attention, have trailer brakes, sway bar, etc. I love it as I can stand up & we're going to make two beds in there. I have terrible joint pain & muscle pain, facet joint arthritis, etc, & just cannot sleep on a cot any longer.
We have our mattress on a piece of plywood, in our house. No prob doing the same in our trailer. It has lots of air circulation due to vents we had installed & we'll be "living" outside. The trailer is just for keeping everything packed & in order for heading out into the back country. (We live in NE Nev.)
With a bed & plenty of room for our 3 dogs, we're good to go!
We usually cook on our 2 burner propane camp stove. We've been married 41 yrs & Hubster had it before we were married. Stil going strong. I'd like to try a solar oven. The one that's a long glass tube in a case?
Anyway, I'm so excited; I couldn't wait to tell you.
A man with experience is NEVER at the mercy of a man with an argument. A.W.Tozer
Finally a presenter that doesn't have pimples & a smiley chick jumping up & down with excitement! Ahhh, life experiences. What a wonderful thing. I too have read a lot, watched alot & this guy nails it except for the fibreglass bit. Sheep's wool would be excellent to use here. I can understand the negative effect insulation has in "hot" climates & vice versa. At the end of the day this all revolves around "common sense" & "knowledge". Discussion is so important. There's also valuable info from people in the comments column. Everbody has their "angle" on things so it makes this "game of chess" a little easier to understand. Thanks for a great video.
It's good see someone speaking sense about van build wall insulation.
Omg thank you so much for this video I’ve nearly cried trying to find the correct solution and information and your the only one that has set it straight and true your a blessing in disguise you really have saved me on this one 4 months on trying to decide from all 200 channels on insulation xoxoxo
That’s the one problem with so many people out there weighing in on every subject from A to Z - finding the ones who *really* know what they’re talking about! Bob is definitely *that* one - and he’s also built an amazing network of others to help, and connected to others in one huge web.
I’m lucky that I stumbled upon Bob pretty quickly in starting to seriously research RV life in general here on RUclips. I was pretty turned off to him initially, but I recognized the value he was offering, and ended up really hoping to meet him one day on the road.
Same girl. I been planning on using this now I'm going with pink foam board
"when your going pooping, you need to stand up" ...Guess I been doing it wrong! Anyways, Great video really helpful advice.
great! I snorted apple juice through my nose!
Lol😂 the only time I do that is when I gotta go in a porta-potties haha
Good to see you get fired up and share your expertise and passion without to much apology , thank you Bob.
Good discussion video, Bob, and I learned something about insulation. However, not everything you say may be correct. The stiff Polyiso, and the more flexible XPS insulation was well explained.
However, you lost me at 11:34, when you said to use fiberglass batting insulation to stuff between the ribs. Other van builders said not to use this. They said that fiberglass batting works well in houses, but is a dismal failure in vans because vans have moisture condensation on the inside due to metal exterior, and the fiberglass batting soaks up and holds this moisture which turns to mold.
1. There are two alternatives to fiberglass for stuffing the metal ribs on van wall:
Spray foam - cheap price, R value is high, but chemical smell takes time to dissipate.
Black Sheeps Wool Batting - higher price, no toxic smell, does not get mold, good insulation.
2. Ceiling insulation and treatment: You can buy Silent Silver, or Silent Blue which are 1/8" thick rolls of closed cell neoprene (like Polyiso but very bendable) coated with mylar silver foil. It has some sound deadening, thermal, and moisture barrier properties. Stick this on ceiling, then some plastic ceiling tile that looks like metal tin tiles, paint it up and done. Quick and cheap solution for the interim period prior to raising your roof.
4. Floor solution: Subfloor plywood. Paint it. Put some plastic moisture barrier sheeting over it. Grind down slightly any carriage bolts sticking out - just a tad without compromising structural integrity. Add Silent Silver underlayment on this, taking care to tape seams well. Put in click lock bamboo engineered wood (it is real wood) from Home Depot. Tools needed is a push bar $11 and hammer and saw. No glue, no nails. Push bar is a useful weapon for self defense too.
Fits like a dream. These are narrow strips, comes in a Tiger stripe natural design, and very thin layer. I did this for my Class C RV and still flawless after 5 yrs. Optional molding trim around with wood or metal on base. Floor stays nice and warm even in howling winds, rain storms, whatever. Add small carpet on top for color.
What I would love to know more about is sound deadening materials. They have to be cheap, lightweight, and be effective sound proofing. Most materials sold are very pricey, and heavy. Ok for cars but not vans.
Some great ideas there, thanks for posting. I’d add that cork is fantastic for insulation as well sound deadening, and is a great, durable flooring surface as well - plus it’s very environmentally friendly and sustainable. That’s the direction I think I would be going.
It isn’t a cure-all for sound, but it’s good enough for floors that it is required by San Francisco building code as underlayment for hardwood floors in multistory apartment buildings.
Just one correction: bamboo is definitely *not* wood; it is a grass. It’s still very strong and durable.
Thank you 😊
@@wendyannh great idea about the cork. A few years back, I installed a pricey but 100% green and waterproof lvt floor. Cork was used as the bottom layer of each plank. That might be the perfect product for a van floor and the cost wouldn't be prohibitive in such a small space. Thanks!
Your expertise has saved me a great deal of time. Thank you, sir.
I'm seriously thinking about giving up big city living and moving into a van . Thank you so much for the education
14:20 !!! YES .. Finally somebody agrees with me!! Do NOT bother insulating the floor! .. I am putting down 1/2" pressure treat plywood then 3/4" (either pine or fir ply plywood (1/4" 20 with rivet nuts, and flat head bolts)
.... As my van build will be modular and still used for transporting arog or even smaller vehicles, and the heavy plywood REALLY strengthens the floor, I used this same plywood set up for a big flatbed I made year ago and it's lasts forever, I will also have a few "pockets style" tie downs flush with the floor.
Plywood is about R1 per inch so I'll have a bit over R1 insulation!! :) in the floor.
As always, you make great efforts to give a real DIY effort to complete a project. Thanks.
Awesome video, and spot-on about the nature of insulation! I'm seeing a lot of comments about keeping things cooler though.
I built a van in Florida that I ended up taking to Colorado(...and who knows after this). I did some research, watched a lot of RUclips builds, and learned from my own experiences and mistakes as I went along. I also believe that cargo is the way to go. I got a passenger van because the price, timing, and availability was just right at the time, but I almost immediately covered all the windows with radiant insulation and have yet to remove it, even here in Colorado.
I did the walls, doors, and ceiling with a combination of 1/2" foam and fiberglass as well(and a little spray foam here and there), and it's definitely true that the insulation will make it take longer to heat up but will hold the heat longer. I found this to be okay for me while in Florida because I was able to stay in the van a bit longer in the morning before it got too hot, and then I'd usually end up driving it anyway. We're talking thirty minutes to an hour after sunrise at the latest before insulating and as late as 9-10 am afterward in late May-early June(90+ days that year).
I also insulated my floor because I found that it wasn't the cold that was the problem, but the heat coming up from the floor, mostly after running, that would make the van heat up like an oven. Nothing like driving all day, stopping to rest, and then having the hot drivetrain and exhaust warming the van up on an already hot and humid night! This also helped a lot with sound, as I initially had nothing but metal and undercoat under my feet in some parts. If you're familiar with Florida, or most other southern states, you know how much heat the pavement absorbs on a hot day. It's not uncommon to see the roads and parking lots steaming after a quick shower.
I stayed in the van for about a month in Florida, then took it through Texas and up to Colorado. My best advice if you're going to leave the van during the day in the heat is to try and park in the shade(obviously), cover ALL your windows(I bought the material and made my own custom-fit sunshades). If you're going to be in/using the van, do the same and leave the side and rear doors opened and facing Away from the sun, and use a fan if you have one. A little airflow goes a long way!
Isolate the cab! This is also great for sleeping comfortably at night, and it helps keep your heat in on cold nights too. There are many ways you can do this. I found a set of thermal blackout curtains that matched my interior walls perfectly and went with that setup. Even with the front and side windows covered, you'd be surprised by the rush of heat(or cold) that pours over you when you open the curtains in the morning.
Solar is also great! Leave a gap and it makes a bit of a barrier from the sun beating directly onto the roof(every little bit counts, right?), and you can use it to run vent fans to help keep it cooler.
As far as the cold goes, I've only spent a few nights down into the lower 30's. I have the Mr. Heater Portable Buddy but have barely needed it on those nights. If I did use it, it was usually just for a few minutes, and then just the pilot and my body heat kept things comfortable. I'm sure colder nights will call for more, but I haven't faced them yet, and it seems like I am fairly well prepared.
Hopefully, this is all helpful to someone
As a fellow Floridian, this is very helpful! I'm doing research now for my first van build and your comment really helped 👍
@Kamper Ken And bugs and snakes and ground water...
Another Floridian who thanks you sir!
I totally agree with your take on insulation. The thing everyone forgets about a van is that a van is a rolling metal box with two big thermal holes front(cab/windshled) and back(door windows). So, you're really not starting well to begin with. As a BPI certified building analyst, I have had numerous conversations explaining to people that putting reflectix directly against insulation actually reduces R value because reflectix is a really good conductor. One thing I do like in a van is rockwool insualtion, because it can be compressed, and made to fit on any nooks and crannies pretty well. I have also found aerogel to be really good for walls, though, it is still pricey. I usually go with rockwool for the nooks and foam for the walls.
I know a lot of people will not listen to you about insulating the floor of your van. My father taught me that wisdom is being smart enough to listen to someone who knows. And I believe that you know what you're talking about. Keep up the good work Bob bless you
Thank you for your insight! I just learned about reflectix and I feel terrible for those who installed that in their van build thinking it would be insulation.
Thank you for making such a great informative video regarding insulation. I had done a little reading about conductive, convention and radiant heat transfer before watching this video but was still a bit confused as to how to insulate. Living and building our van here in Australia I had the impression (before listening to your advice) that I should insulate against the metal with XPS and would then use dual foil reflective bubble wrap (the Aussie version of Reflectix) stuck on the inner side of the foam before installing the walls, but the last 5 mins of your video was definitely the most helpful for me personally and I'm glad you mentioned hotter climates not to go heavy on the insulation because that one piece of info about how insulation can work against us in keeping the heat locked inside made a tonne of sense and was the determining factor in choosing just to insulate with just one layer of reflective bubble wrap with an air gap between it and the outer metal body of the vehicle. Your advise definitely makes the most logical sense to me and is thankfully the cheapest method also. I am hopeful it all works out well if we ever find ourselves venturing into the Aussie outback in our converted Toyota Hiace Commuter minibus. Thanks again!
Thanks for the info Bob. I was about to use Reflectix! You saved me, Again!
ProMotoLife reflektix is so misunderstood .... use a 2 inch insulation slab ... tried and tested !!!!
i was going to use the poly thing, and fiberglass for the gaps so he just re assured me ,,,thank you bob
ProMotoLife Yes! If he didn't say that I would have repeated the same mistake that other youtubers are showing to do. Thanks Bob! Now I understand why not glue reflectix directly. Makes sense.
@DR Dan, Please copy & paste it in this thread as I have clicked show more nearing on maybe 20 times and still I don't see your post
Would spray foam work in the vertical thermal gap?
BRILLIANT -- Bob is so pragmatic and has such good judgement and taste.
Even more than two years later, "I KNOW COLD," is still a great line in all of YT!!!!!
I know, right? Bob is definitely THE MAN for this kind of info.
Our man,BOB 🤣
I was born and raised in Fairbanks, Alaska and lived there for over 30 years. I KNOW COLD!
We worked in steel shipping containers in Afghanistan and they got unbearably hot inside during the day, and even having air conditioning wouldn't keep the heat at bay. Those a/c units ran nonstop trying to cool the containers. I shipped over several rolls of Reflectix and lined the inside of the shipping containers with that. Those shipping containers are corrugated so that gave me nice 1 inch air gaps down the sides and across the roof. After doing just the Reflectix, the temp difference was extremely noticeable and the a/c units could then keep the box cooler and not work as hard. The explanation about the conductive heat works the same for thick insulation. It will keep the heat from coming in as fast, but once it's absorbed the heat, it holds it in.
Thanks for the great videos. I'm planning my retirement vehicle and I'm collecting other people ideas and experiences to help me make the right mods to the van.
Up in Canada some people put reflectix under their floor slabs. On my neighbors shop he did that and the concrete set up way faster than the finisher was prepared for.
I tried an experiment on a cold basement floor. Standing barefoot my feet got cold fast. Then I stood on some reflectix and was amazed by the heat sent back to my feet.
I know the difference between conductive, convection, radiant heat, and agree with you. But the sun is not the only producer of radiant heat, so radiant heat generated in the van can be reflected back into the van. Anyway, well done.
Radiant heat barriers in association with concrete slabs have been an even worse practice than in a van, and promoted by some radiant barrier manufacturers, though less often now after building industry research and US federal legal action started to come down on them. It has essentially zero value in that application, particularly compared to EPS and similar actual insulation products being used. If you stand on a radiant barrier in a cool environment, you should be able to feel some radiated heat coming back to you. Move a few inches away, and it again has no effect because your body doesn't radiate sufficient heat for the material to have any consequential effect even at that proximity.
Thank you Bob for the education and rationale for everything you are saying. I totally trust your advice and appreciate how clear and reasonable your instructions are.
Very Impressive Bob,
Finally.. Someone who understands how Reflectix functions.. Not to mention how Thermal Transference functions..
Thank you..
What a FN stupid response. you are definitely not a rocket scientist. Why would you post that comment ? there millions of people that would find this useful , but you are a idiot/FOOL .
Better than reflectix on the walls: equivalent value of $1 bills shredded up and taped to the wall.
@Gene troll
I agree .
@@Gre4tWhiteNorth why would you be so rude .
He sees 100s of van builds and talk to even more people
Thank you, so many people use reflection incorrectly. I'm planning a van build in the near future and this is great information. Taking a year just to plan my van build and watch as many of these videos as possible has been great. I am on about redesign #10. Lol
Thanks Bob you are a wealth of knowledge. I appreciate you!
Great video Bob. I would add, to make sure you circulate plenty of dry air, in either heating or cooling cases. Fresh dry air if at all possible. Promotes comfort, and helps to avoid mold and mildew.
Until the mold and mildew is filtered out, the ventilation system may be spreading the spores. To keep cool on a motorcycle, I used to wet a denim jacket for my ride home from work. The denim jacket would pick up crap from the air and within a week would stink when wet from all the organic matter, mold, and mildew floating in, and filtered from the air.
very informative especially when you listen to the person who has the experience for a long period of time like him. I hit subscribe and will be watching more of your videos and learn. thank you!
Information about the floor is golden. I have watched many videos showing a lot of time and money spent on floor insulation.
I want to add to the discussion on your post about some pretty disgusting comments and even worse actual posts tearing people down in the most personal and horrid way. Please keep doing what you do. I live a world away and you have affected my life in the meaningful way. Those people that seek to derail what they do not understand amaze me at there lack of maturity.
THANK YOU! So many van conversion walkthroughs but so few that actually get into how and why you should fashion it the way that’s best for you.
Accurate info on polyiso, reflectix and thermal bridging. Good job Bob.
Inaccurate info about:
- No floor insulation. You must insulate all six parts of a box.
- Fiber insulation is low R value, and a rodent and bug trap. Spray foam instead.
- Letting the "hot out". A well-insulated van won't let the heat in. Run fans or AC or heater to regulate temperature.
Your inexperience is showing... It depends on the box, what you want the box to do and how well, if it is consistently oriented the same way or is always in the same environment, or whether there are other variables at work. Your spray foam is probably low R-value compared to my roofing foam, but that doesn't mean it's an inaccurate suggestion or bad choice depending on application and durability. Mineral wool is probably the greatest insulation ever developed for safety, effectiveness, longevity, and being mostly impervious to water as well as fire, and inedible to insects, but it may not be the best choice for the thin walls in a van. Foams have a long history of insect infestation, particularly being hollowed out by ants.
@@ReflectedMiles That is *so* good to know about insect infestation! Ee-yuck!
wendyannh Sealed away from the outside, though, they can be fantastic. It all depends on the particulars of the application. Inside a box in a sealed cavity, they can do very well indeed.
Reflected Miles Insulting reply’s show that you are not using the scientific method of facts and data. Rather than saying am inexperienced, which is not true, you can say you disagree for the facts you present:
1) It is incorrect to say the orientation of the box matters because temperature difference in independent of gravitation.
2) Foam insulation has up to 50% more R value per inch.
3) Foam is almost immune from rodent and bug attack.
4) Fiber insulation has condensation nuclei, which accumulates moisture molecules if a vapor barrier is not properly installed.
@@tdrager No one using the scientific method would make unconditional claims that no thermal engineer would make, at least one who had lots of experience. Insect intrusion in foam, for example, has been so significant that manufacturers have scrambled for solutions and contracts / warranties have been cancelled where there is any possibility of them getting access into it. YT won't let me link to examples, but anyone can access numerous discussions of this online.
Any insulated wall assembly involves three-dimensional airflow networks that cannot be modeled effectively. The speed of the airflow and what is carried along in it is affected by temperature as well as by other forces at work, and orientation is not principally about gravity but the effects of environmental exposure (south vs. north, etc.), so numerous other engineering factors have to be accounted for to ensure the health and performance of an assembly, like the ability of an assembly to dry, not just trying to exclude the possibility of moisture entry.
I did know that reflectix required space, but I’ve never heard anyone explain why in such a thorough way. Thank You for sharing your knowledge!
When you talk about the floors, I immediately think of cooling my van in the summer ... and not wanting my cool air going out thru the floor.
What a legend! I’m following your directions, as best I can. My windows inserts are quilted blackout blinds with a reflectix layer against the glass, and I’m lining my walls and ceiling with polyester underfloor insulation. Kia Ora.
Very interesting, thank you Bob. Years ago my family of origin had an RV for recreational camping, and from experience I concur with what you said about insulation holding the heat. Had an uncle insist once that I needed insulation to keep heat out in summer. I had already found out the camper was cooler without It, it was removed after water damage,, and the camper was so noticably cooler without it, that I did not replace it when we restored the camper. My uncle had good intentions, citing his expertise in insulation as a builder, but I FELT the difference, I was staying in the camper and working hard in it (physically) during the restoration which took an entire summer.
they have the same problem in Germany with prefabricated houses, the walls are light, wood, particle board, and insulation material like mineral wool or styrofoam (no MASS), the insulation works very well in winter. but not in summer. Once you have the heat IN the house, you can't get it out if the nights are "tropical". And those nights become more. (heat waves etc).
in summer construction becomes very important, brick and mortar (MASS) helps. It takes much longer to heat up. Of course in combination with a large roof that shades the windows (in summer, not in winter when the sun stands deeper).
In other comments they discuss the safari roof, a sheet that leaves a gap and shades the roof. A solar panel could do double duty.
Reflectix perfectly explained. So many don't understand radiant vs conductive heat. Thank you!
You are welcome, Thanks for watching!
You are a good teacher Bob. Don't stop talking and explaining it the way you do. That is really helpful and for some of us who are new to this, it's very valuable. Please stay the way you are! Thank you. God Bless you!
First one to explain things straight up, bravo
This video was very helpful! Thank you for the comparative analysis of the van types and the reasons behind the potential decisions.
You made sooo much sense, I'm from a tropical super hot country and I always wondered why we don't insulate to keep cool inside like in America and now I know why ! It makes it worse in hot weather ! Why didn't I think of that ? !
I've watched more than a few videos on insulation. Subscribed
REFLEX INSULATION TUTORIAL Thank you for the clarification. This is why I watch your channel
Mechanical engineer major here.
This guy knows his heat tranfer
what If i live in australia where it gets hot and cold at different times in the year? help pls :(
@@5jwiqiojwio217 Well, it gets hot and cold at different times of the year here in the US, too, you know 😜
To different levels in different parts of the country, and time of day, but we certainly don’t escape at least *some* variation everywhere that I know of.
For those who want to always stay in warmer climates, they simply have to move around for summer and winter.
So, you can still follow the recommendations Bob has made, wherever you are - and the suggestions some of the commenters above have added for those who are in between and may need both.
I am glad I found this vid! Thanks! I am in Texas and have a nice 199 Chevy conversion van that I am getting ready to dwell in, mostly in East Texas where the pine trees are thick. I dwelled in my van six months a couple years ago in the winter and never used a heater! I WAS thinking wrong about insulating her, but not happy about having to remove the walls to do so. Now, adding a little of my own experience after 3 vans total, I know that VENTILATION and a little acclimation works wonders for the heat. It's about air flow....
For odd spaces you might also consider Polyurethane foam used for sound isolation, has a value just under R7 and loses a little bit over the next few months, maybe down to 6. But you can spray it into whatever space you want, if you can afford the price of it.
So many superb tips on this channel.
Stop going on about him repeating himself hes thinking as hes filming, i do this too when explaining health stuff to people i repeat to pick up my train of thought on certain subjects. no big deal so what. have some respect hes taking the time to help all you can do is make rude comments about him repeating himself. Honestly people have lost their manners appreciate hes even making them to help everyone his info is invaluable.
I agree on the manners comment, maybe some editing before posting !
@@Luv4Frankie Stop going on about his rambling. He's thinking as he's typing.
He does this as he to a an not and say to explaining.
^^^ say what? :D
Agree there is no manners on social media for many
I couldn’t agree more. Bob gives a *massive* amount of time and energy to help others, and the very least those of us who learn from his videos can do is simply to not criticize.
*Constructive* criticism, in the form of feedback about, say, technical issues and suggestions for improvements, are one thing, but grousing is just plain rude. That is a real person who has done a lot of work to post these videos, and they do read many of the comments, if not most or all - and are very hurt when people complain. Be nice.
Even when offering constructive criticism, I still make very sure to thank the person for their hard work and information, and ideally comment on some aspect I found particularly helpful.
If any given RUclipsr or video annoys a person, they should just shut it off and go watch something else.
I admit I don’t always do this so well myself, but it is certainly what I strive for.
It is, however, very worthwhile to follow people who actually know what they are talking about, in depth, even if it means watching someone one doesn’t find as compelling as someone else - and they simply don’t come better than Bob for vanlife and boondocking in general.
Thanks sooooo much! I just bought my van and it looks very much like yours in this video. I have the wood slats and metal cab partition. I’m looking forward to following your build!
Best van insulation advice on RUclips period!
I really needed this, watched others say put reflects as insulation! So glad I found you!!!
Totally agree about your insulation views. The only thing I would add is that if you are in a small van less insulation is fine. I have a 1/2 inch insulation in my Transit Connect on my walls and ceiling in Vancouver Canada and my van is plenty warm.
Timothy Keller Vandweller ehhh, I live in Vancouver too!
I drive a transit connect for work and thought it might be alright for living in, except at 6'1" I couldn't even lay down in it so I'll just stick to my '88 Volvo 240.
Greeting from Victoria 😘
Dude I live in Arizona and you saved me a ton of money doing insulation. I had this tick in the back of my mind thinking about insulation possibly turning my van into an oven and you just confirmed that. All the videos I've seen cover insulating vans as an important thing to do. I've never done anything like this.
With winter coming, it's not so important to insulate so I was going to do it next May of June, but I will redress my situation around that time. For now I'm going to use Reflectix and do more research for solar systems, power, and possibly moving to a cooler climate altogether. Thank you so much!
Joke's on me, I came to see how he insulated the roof
I just got an 2006 ford E250 its a beast on gas. Has rot behind all four wheels at very bottom of body. But this will be my 1st van life van. Starting now so this video is very helpful. Thanks Bob
Thank you for this channel and all the invaluable information.
very useful info. That air gap hint I didn’t even consider, thank you.
This is the exact kind of channel I was looking for, thank you!
Dedicated and informative lecture. After 45 years in AK, I can see why you prefer the desert during winter. Cheers!
Thumbs up. Say Bob, in regards to insulating in hot weather, all you really have to do to get the heat out at night is open the doors, or switch on the fantastic fan on your roof.
Robert, do you use AC? I'm in TX and need a recommendation. Thanks.
I'm so glad I found you, Bob! This is my first Van conversion ever and you have calmed my nerves with your knowledge. Thank you. I'm definitely subscribed.
I would have made that mistake about the reflectix against the wall.
Thank you sir for sharing your wisdom.
Reflect like a mirror ,,, spray foam best
If you know anything about home insulation it's the same thing as Reflectix in the attic you always include ventilation space.
Great Video, thanks for clearing thing up! so you put insulation in for the winter and pull out for the summer!
i've been in steel shipping containers in Hawaii heat and insulated reefer containers too . The reefer (not even running) is Much cooler in the summer sun than the naked steel container . So I would say DO Insulate for hot weather . No ?? maybe its mainly the roof slowing the conduction (?)
How do the regular containers work for you? How have you insulated?
not sure on that one, but i think his point was mostly that you cant really achieve the required level of isolation, ie sealing up all the gaps, to keep out the immense heat coming in from outside, so its not really worth bothering with, and it´ll slow the heat transfer back out of the van a lot more, since the delta is much smaller then. Im pretty damn sure a purpose built reefer is insulated a whole lot better than you could ever get in any van.
Great presentation - with the needed information for a successful build. Thumbs up and subscribed.
I work in construction and you are 100% rite
Thank you Bob, I am several years from obtaining & glamping out a sprinter or box van, and decades from retirement. From experience camping in minivans, I know that I want to invest much of my initial outfitting strategy/resources toward van insulation & HVAC, before the van fills up and trips are underway and it is too imbedded to change. My wife and I are weekend warrior mountain enthusiasts and I am a lifer backcountry skier so warm morning functionality from insulating a camping van is a priority over giving into RV abundance. I had my heart set on finding a way to power a heated van floor until watching this video, and discovering your highly credible and ill opinion against bothering with floor insulation. My desire for insulating the floor is in preventing what I had imagined to be enormous radiant heat losses to the cold ground/hot pavement via steel chassis, etc. While the envelope calculations for DC powered radiant floor heat favors diesel forced air heating over an immense battery payload, there is no quiet diesel powered cooling solution, and a sizable DC power source seems necessary for four season van HVAC anyway. I Imagine some of the energy storage penalty of DC electric heat could be decreased by a combination of preventing floor heat losses, zoning off the front cabin, and the favorable efficiency of radiant vs forced air heating methods. I would love to hear your opinion on the following ideas and questions. Is installing electric radiant over an R 20-ish floor possible? Is maintaining compressive integrity of under floor insulation an impossible feat? Is insulating from the floor's underside feasible? Is the chassis thermal bridge too strong to be blocked by insulation?
Hi Bob, I love your channel! And here you are dam right! I've made my camper vans for over 40 years and insolation is good for cold area's, but keep the heat in at night in warm area's. My next van is comming up in a fiew months and I think of spraying foam in the beams to avoid cold barriers, but I'm hesitating for in case I have an accident. When they have to weld the pannels to repear then the foam gets in flame ... What is your opinion? Thanks for your interesting info !
Once again thank you so much for your time and help.
reflectix is exactly what I've been totaled a lot of people about the air GAP people don't do there research agree with you one hundred percent
Teddy: Yeah, but he said you could use it if you put bubble wrap between and then it would insulate.
No what he said was that it reflectix would reflect heat, not insulate. Insulation is completely different! Its not going to work for cold climates unless you plan on using a van as a freezer.
Peaches: he said plain reflectix wouldn't work as it needs space of 1/2 ' between.....and then he said you could put bubble wrap to fill the space up inbetween and then reflectix would work. So the question remains what to choose for your insulation. I lived in Colorado and the winters get below 0. so I would put up plastic and blankets on the windows....if I had known then, why I would have used bubble wrap perhaps and then another material in the windows.
I understood what Bob said about Reflextic to mean if you put the gap in it will reflect but if you don't put a gap in it won't. Either way it won't insulate. Cheers!
Excellent videos. The redundancy displayed while explaining conducted vs radiated heat, oh my! Thanks Mr. Whoopie lol. Your videos are interesting and inspiring. Thank you for sharing.
I'm surprised you didn't mention spray foam. I had the inside of my 94 Chevy G30 Cargo van sprayed out for around $300. 1-1 1/2" throughout, and it worked like a charm. Even using a little buddy heater would roast you out unless you kept the roof vent open - and this was Alaska/Yukon during the winter...
I think spray foam would be the best also. It would fill in all the little crevices regular insulation wouldn't get.
I got Spray Cell done professionally from my dads work friend. 250$. Roasting in there with Mr Buddy, and very very well sound insulated! Only problem is the front of the van is not nearly as well insulated (cockpit). How did you get around that?
@@violagentsch True - some may not. But some people who live in Vans live in 60-70 thousand and up dollar vans. Some people realize that insulating a van - or trailer upfront will save them many times that amount in heating/cooling costs over the lifetime of the Van. Not to mention the reduced road noise (assuming the person actually drove it, and didn't park it under a bridge forever). There's all sorts of creative solutions, spray foam is but one...
@@garretv7247 I was thinking about sprayfoaming the inside of my doors. I've also ordered slightly insulated curtains to go between the cab and cargo area
@@garretv7247 I am in the process of designing our ford transit van into a camper for travelling. I am building a 2x6 wall inbetween the front and back. This will have a pocket door that will be used as my pantry. When closed I have all my spices, cooking needs, plus the wall will be insulated. Still useable for storage plus insulted to keep living area easily temperature controlled. When driving, I can open door to help heat/cool the back.
When we insulated our truck bed camper, we put two sheets of blue max R-5 and one cheep white R3, then lauan and covered the lauan with indoor/outdoor carpet. It is about R15 to R17 and works great(no reflective sheets). Our truck bed camper holds 6 ten foot kayaks and our camping gear and sleeps 5 after we remove the kayaks. With the Kayaks it only sleeps two. 100% right Bob.
Idea:
What if you set Solar Pannels a few cm above roof... You then have space for air to flow and keep things cooler...
Good / Bad? Work / Wont work?
@Obie Brown - I am wondering the same thing! I am in the South where it's often sunny, hot, and humid but does get down to 30-40 degrees F (cold to me!) in the winters. Wintertime cold in my area is cold and humid. I'm so confused on insulating, solar, etc. Most videos seem to focus on freezing cold environments...
Just a spy comment don't mind me
Yup. Same here. All the videos are about keeping the cold out. I'd love more info for those of us battling 90 & 100 degrees.@@missscarlett7422
It's really a good idea for heat. Old British Land Rovers use this concept.
@@stanleytolle416 Yes. They called them Tropical Roof I think.
Excellent! Thank you for this information. I'm passing it along to someone who has a van and will find this very helpful. You are a great resource.
Wow, Bob constantly blows my mind with his knowledge and delivery, another great video Bob , thx!
Finally, someone who explains it well on reflectix xD. I been looking at countless youtubers and its only this channel and another channel that focuses on having at least .5 inch gap between the surface and reflectix
I've been thinking about this for a while. In theory, it seems to me as though Reflectix might be all we need. Let me explain. If we heat the interior of the vehicle during the colder temperatures, the same reflective properties of Reflectix that keep the interior cool during hot weather should work in inverse, and keep the interior warm in cold weather. In other words, the heat we produce via propane heater (or other source) should be reflected around inside of the vehicle and keep it warm. I understand that Reflectix needs an air gap to be beneficial, so I believe I may have come up with a solution. I have been thinking about using Reflectix over the van ribs (in place of sheet insulation covered with paneling) and securing it intermittently to the ribs with high heat silicone and silicone washers to act as spacers. The silicone should act as a thermal barrier at the attachment point since it is a superb heat insulator (think silicone kitchen spatula), and the spacers will provide the air gap required. I do not question your experience, Bob. Quite the contrary, I greatly respect you and your opinion, and I am extremely grateful for your videos. I am merely wondering if you have ever attempted a set up similar to what I have laid out above or if you may have an opinion about the feasibility of my idea. Someone please let me know if my logic is faulty.
Just throwing this out there for thought, are you planning an all reflectix interior ? If you put up paneling, cabinets etc you would be loosing the air space on the interior. If your thinking vapor barrier to (minimize) condensation there are cheaper alternatives.
jniska Good thinking. I'm not sure about paneling, but it seems to me that if I make my cabinets open in the back...maybe covered in netting or something similar, the Reflectix should work. I suppose instead of paneling I could drape a synthetic fabric (to keep mold at bay) in front of the Reflectix. I think the Reflectix should still work even if I glue the fabric directly to it. Shouldn't it? I believe it's usually covered in home installations. Thanks for pointing that out though. I hadn't given much thought to that part of the equation
After doing some research, I found out that it's not the foil substance that is responsible for the heat stopping abilities of the Reflectix, it is the reflective surface. So adhering any non-reflective material to one side of the surface of Reflectix would severely impact the performance of Reflectix on that one side. Adhering material directly to foil basically renders it useless on the covered side.
Interestingly enough, I believe this could have a desirable effect IF the Reflectix panels were made so that the shiny side could face in OR out depending on climate (temporary mounting via foam tape or silicone coated neodymium magnets for instance). To clarify, during winter months, the shiny side would face in and reflect the heat and the covered side would face out and absorb heat instead of reflecting what little heat there may be. In summer months, the shiny side would face out and reflect the heat outward, and the covered side would absorb the heat of the interior instead of reflecting it around inside.
The same premise should hold true when using foam panels that have foil on one side. If we install them so that we can reverse the insulation depending on climate, I think it would make for optimal insulation.
I love you Bob!!! You are wonderful! Never stop being you (which I know you never would!) Lol I love your video's and watch them all the time! You are very entertaining and are so smart! I hope I will be able to meet you someday!!! Thank you for all your great advice!!! ☺