I think Floyd Rose makes all their common nuts 10" Now. Gotoh are 14" radius and 41MM wide. I always flat sand the bottom of these nuts using sand paper on a flat surface (cheese cutter granite stone) Do one sometime and you will see why...... Attempting to learn what I can because of starting a project that ended up being 10" locking Nut radius,12" Fretboard and 14" radius Trem.
I made on using just a piece of 2x3 tubular steel. I slide the neck through the tube, clamp the neck and tube down in the right location, and use the top of the tube and the front edge for a router guide. works great..
Great explanation. Thank you! Will the entire stay stem work on a squire Strat? I saw the Jackson bridge video. Just wondering if it will apply to mine. Going to try and mod it a bunch.
Changing where the nut begins would have a pretty significant impact on the scale length. Your bridge would need to move to compensate this wouldn't it?
The only time the front edge should ever change is for an LSR nut, or if you are doing a Buzz Feiten mod. If the edge of the fingerboard is cut then you need to fill in what was removed.
I'm down in Fairmont. I need to have the licensed Floyd nut (Kahler licensed Floyd) replaced with an actual R2 on my early 90's ESP M-ll Deluxe... along with the posts/bushings (replacing with Schaller LockMeister). What would a job like this cost?
@@MillCityLutherie No, you can't here as the neck shown here has the truss rod adjustment at the end of the neck exactly where you just blocked it!, in order to adjust at the heel like on vintage fender necks you would need to slice the neck and change the truss rod direction and open a new hole at the heel! 😅, way too much hassle for a modification that was not needed, you should have changed the neck type instead of all this mess, otherwise they have to remove the locking nuts in order to access the truss rod adjustment end! 🤣
@@Alex_Martz The measuring relief before and after taking the strings off is the point of my comment, did you miss that? On a heel end Fender you have to take the neck off to get to the truss rod. This one the locking nut is taken off not the neck. Measure with a relief gauge before and after taking strings off. This neck is not anymore complicated or time consuming than a heel end Fender is.
Thank you so much for the attention to detail, and the explanations!
I think Floyd Rose makes all their common nuts 10" Now. Gotoh are 14" radius and 41MM wide.
I always flat sand the bottom of these nuts using sand paper on a flat surface (cheese cutter granite stone) Do one sometime and you will see why......
Attempting to learn what I can because of starting a project that ended up being 10" locking Nut radius,12" Fretboard and 14" radius Trem.
Very helpful! Where can we find the router jig, or at least get plans to make one?
I made on using just a piece of 2x3 tubular steel. I slide the neck through the tube, clamp the neck and tube down in the right location, and use the top of the tube and the front edge for a router guide. works great..
You do great work. Thanks for sharing.
Great explanation. Thank you!
Will the entire stay stem work on a squire Strat? I saw the Jackson bridge video. Just wondering if it will apply to mine. Going to try and mod it a bunch.
This should work on any neck, but plan it out first. You can't back up once you've cut wood.
Great job!!
Oh hey. Forgot to mention this to you.
Changing where the nut begins would have a pretty significant impact on the scale length. Your bridge would need to move to compensate this wouldn't it?
The only time the front edge should ever change is for an LSR nut, or if you are doing a Buzz Feiten mod. If the edge of the fingerboard is cut then you need to fill in what was removed.
No, if you move the nut, the frets are the wrong distance, needs to stay the same
I'm down in Fairmont. I need to have the licensed Floyd nut (Kahler licensed Floyd) replaced with an actual R2 on my early 90's ESP M-ll Deluxe... along with the posts/bushings (replacing with Schaller LockMeister). What would a job like this cost?
You'll need to contact me directly about this. Check my about section for my details.
@@MillCityLutherie Just seeing this. I'll be in contact thanks, Adam 👍
Unless I've gone completely blind, that's no "half inch"
There's a caption with the 1/8" correction right in the video.
kat
good
You notice how after he installed the nut the strings were sitting on the feet instead of having having a gap? No bueno, he routed to deep
Please watch the whole video before commenting. You missed details if you are making this comment.
How are they going to adjust neck truss road later? 😂😂😂
Same method as a heel end Fender. Measure with string on, then again when off, adjust rod and put back together.
@@MillCityLutherie No, you can't here as the neck shown here has the truss rod adjustment at the end of the neck exactly where you just blocked it!, in order to adjust at the heel like on vintage fender necks you would need to slice the neck and change the truss rod direction and open a new hole at the heel! 😅, way too much hassle for a modification that was not needed, you should have changed the neck type instead of all this mess, otherwise they have to remove the locking nuts in order to access the truss rod adjustment end! 🤣
@@Alex_Martz The measuring relief before and after taking the strings off is the point of my comment, did you miss that? On a heel end Fender you have to take the neck off to get to the truss rod. This one the locking nut is taken off not the neck. Measure with a relief gauge before and after taking strings off. This neck is not anymore complicated or time consuming than a heel end Fender is.