Lok-N-Roll V2 Compensated Locking Guitar Nut for Floyd Rose R3 Tremolo Systems Installation Review
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- Опубликовано: 7 дек 2023
- In this video we install and evaluate the V2 version of the Lok-N-Roll compensated locking nut to see if it really works and all of their claims are true, or it's just marketing hype.
/ brutes_magootes
#loknroll #guitartutorial #guitarlesson 
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I have an earvana nut on a 24-3/4 scale guitar. I can hear the notes on the G and B strings sound extra in tune which makes chords “jump out more” sounds a lot better. I’ve heard compensated nuts work better on a Gibson scale guitars. I have no idea is lok and roll is the same or similar to an earvana nut but one of my friends tried my guitar and I didn’t tell him about the compensated nut at first. He was playing Iron Maiden and Ozzy riffs and was blown away by how lively and in tune the guitar sounded.
I have heard that about Earvana. I wish that had been the case here. And maybe you are right about the scale length.
I think the Edge original and Edge lo pro intonation screws allow for more pull up maybe but you lose some tool contact inside the screws with their design and it maybe makes them easier to strip if you aren’t careful or are using a Allen wrench that has been rounded a little bit. In my opinion intonation is the most aggravating part of setting up a double locking tremolo. I’m an Ibanez edge fan myself they are my favorite tremolo’s, I just think they feel more comfortable and more precise under my hand. The Lok N Roll nut does look cool but I don’t know if it’s worth the money but then again is anything we do to our guitars really worth the money, OK locking tuners are the exception the time you save restringing is worth the 40 to 120 dollars you’d likely spend on locking tuners. I’ve finally put a FU big block on my Edge lo pro and I’m not entirely convinced it made a big difference in tone or sustain but it did change the feel and it flutters easier with the heavier block so I suppose that could be worth 40 dollars depending on what you want. It sure looks cool though lol and sometimes that’s reason enough. I’ve never had a problem with my locking nuts pulling the strings sharp as long as the string retainer bar is adjusted right or the tuners are staggered correctly to pull across the back of the nut. Anyway thanks for putting these videos out on the more expensive FR upgrades like the titanium saddles and such and being as honest and objective as possible. I think possibly those stainless steel FR saddles on Amazon might be the best upgrade especially for the FR specials. Ultimately if you’re double looking tremolo stays in tune and returns to pitch after heavy abuse it’s doing everything it is supposed to do, unless you’re touring and regularly breaking the locking blocks in your saddles, look at these upgrades as reliability and appearance mods and you will probably be happy with them.
Great tip on the quick saddle adjustment.
Glad it was helpful!
I love the way your guitars look.... I would buy one of your guitars and I am sure they play and sound great!
Thanks brother!
Great video, did you put Futone parts on your floyd Rose? which model do you have? your FR looks different and has those cylinders like instead of the blocks
I did. It’s a Floyd 1984, and I added FU-Tone titanium screws and saddles.
That Charvel is sweet! I've been curious about the Lok-n-Roll nut. Maybe I don't understand something but it seems like the distance between your fretted note and the saddle is all that really matters as far as intonation goes.
Well it all ties together, hence why you want your fretted octaves to match your open. But yeah, this is a gimmick. If you’re still interested though, I’m taking this one off and selling it.
Dude the Lok-N-Roll website says buy 2 get 1 free for $312.00 + $15.00. Shipping.
Bro that’s $109.00 ea. Good luck selling those things! Maybe some rich rockstars might buy a couple of the company stays in business long enough.
With my nevertune bridge (floyd), intonation and tuning are literally a moving target. Strings get goofy pretty quickly if you put some hours on them, high E is the worst.
I wind up saying f it, and just play out of wack most of the time.
Great video work brother, your channel is so colorful.
Thanks Andre! Not that you don't know more than I do, but as far as Floyds themselves go, I have better luck with the German made ones (they are not the same as the Korean ones as most claim) paired with titanium bridge posts. Also, how old are your nut/clamps? A lot of the time string slippage at the nut is the cause.
@@brutesmagootes3996 all my stuff is old and crappy. I have many pieces of Ibanez bridges in my floyds also.
Both of my guitars are terribly buzzing with fret problems, unrelated but it's awful.
As of today, producer Randy Burns is working on my new project.
Man, it sucks you’re down in Houston because that’s one thing I’m great at is working on guitars.
And congrats on Burns working on your project!!! He’s awesome. I can’t wait to hear what you’re cooking up! 🤘🏻
@@brutesmagootes3996 I am up in north east TX, a couple of hours east of Dallas, fairly remote in the woods.
What city?…I’m in Princeton TX.
Hey Bro, 1st time on your channel, I beleive. I picked up a Jackson with a floyd rose thinking I knew how it worked/assuming it was similar to the tremelow on my Westone spectrum LX. Anyways, can you please tell me the names of the attachments you have on your floyd? The stopper thing to make it only bend one way(under the trem by the springs) also, the redish colored knob below your fine tune knobs on the low E string? Third, I like the tuners you have! What brand/make are your tuners? After dealing with a floyd, It makes me really appreciate the Bendmaster on my Westie. My other Westone spectrum sx doesn't have a name scribed/imprinted on the top, maybe under the inspection cover?
The trem lock is a Tremol-No, the red this is a EVH D-Tuna, and the tuners are Hipshot 👍🏻
Remember the compensation at the nut is for open strings. Once you fret a string it no longer matters, your fret takes over.
I like to radius down the "spikes" where the "V" for the strings set on the floyd nut and flatten the tops of the "house top" clamps a little and use button head screws. Looks less bulky that way.
They say the peak on the clamps are to help balance the clamp for the two different strings,not sure I believe it does (or not)...
Takes some work because of the hardness and you need to know what you are doing. If black, color with a black marker or whatever...
Guess I will have to look up those round tuners you have...
You bring up a valid point, but that also makes it 💯 useless because you don’t need compensation at the nut is just called tuning the open string.
That nut is only for playing cowboy chords in tune, as you move up the neck, the intonation gets worse very quickly and yes, you must reset your intonation. To have perfect intonation you have to have compensated nut and bridge 😊
Correct. Which doesn’t make any sense to me because there has to be a very small percentage of Floyd users that play a lot of cowboy chords.
@@brutesmagootes3996 check out stringtechs page for compensated nut and bridge, very interesting
Will do
Try Hollow Point intonation system for easy intonation experience. I think this guitar needs this upgrade.
Thanks for the heads up. I’ll check them out. 🤘🏻
or get one of those intonation keys, i hear a lot of people hating on the hollowpoints. but i actually put them on mine and like the look and extra weight. @@brutesmagootes3996
Thanks...I'll look into that as well. Much appreciated.
@@brutesmagootes3996 no problem bro🙏🏼
I'd mainly get it for the looks and the feel, just seems like a more modern floyd nut. Way too expensive tho
You started with a Charvel Henrik, and grow steadily towards a Washburn Nuno 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Howard "Buzz" Feiten designed and patented a compensated nut late 70s already, afaik.
You’re not far off. 🤣
As far as the compensated nut, I believe you are right. And I have the Buzz “tuning system” on my Washburn Nele but just like white this, it does nothing at all that can’t be accomplished with a standard nut. To call it a “tuning system” screams marketing ploy.
Graphtech just came out with a replacement for a floyd locking nut, its called the un-lock nut
Yeah, I saw that about a week ago, but I didn’t read about it so I’m unsure of exactly what it does or how it works.
@@brutesmagootes3996 Graphtech looks like a guide for locking tuners to me.
The price of this Lok-N-Roll is ridiculous. Just gathering info about Nut radius. Seems Floyd Rose only makes 10" Radius on their common nuts. At one time the R3 had a 12" and The Gotoh is a 14" radius.
Started a project with assumptions and not knowing things ending up with a 10" Radius locking Nut,12" fret board and 14" Gotoh trem. Not sure it matters BUT in my mind seems all wrong....maybe more like a compound set up ?
It’s certainly not ideal. The 14” at the bridge could work, but the 10” nut will probably cause the 2 E stings to be too close to the frets, and if you raise the nut then the centers will be too far. BUT, a lot of people would never notice.
@@brutesmagootes3996 check out schaller floyd version, they offer several different radii for their system
I thought there was an intonation formula for compensated nuts.
There is, but it is typically applied to acoustics although it can be for electrics too. Basically adjusting the saddle for intonation by matching 2 fretted notes, the compensate the nut so that the open string is in tune with the lower frets. But the compensation on this is off.
Well, you tried. Sorry ya had to go through all that just to get back to your original starting point. At least you appreciate its smooth edges and clean look. At the end of the day, that's all that matters.
Very true. Although I am not sure it's worth just that. lol
maybe a stupid question, if the guitar got locking nut, so no really need locking tuner..?
There is no need per see, but they make life much easier when restringing.