I'm 81. Been playing since I was 14. There was no one doing this stuff when I was young. Had to learn how to do all this on my own. There wasn't any thing like this and it took years. Thanks for this and other videos from Stew Mac.
Imagine if we had this information at our disposal when we were young. The things we would have learned and been able to pass on to the upcoming musicians would be even more advanced.
@@Grizzleback07We could have learned it before, but only the real geeks did. Stew Mac tool ads were featured in Guitar Player magazine decades ago, long before the Internet. Obviously it's easier now, but it was never impossible to become a luthier, or just learn to fix your own guitar; It just took a lot more effort in the past.
Ignorance is bliss, but now you can tell if you got a $100 setup for $100 or a $20 setup for $100. Splurge on the card like string gauge and a $15 headband magnifier if you're over 40.
Luthiers on RUclips saved me. I'm a 70 year old self taught beginner. I play the keyboard. I bought a 350 dollar acoustic guitar from B stock for 195 dollars. It was in poor condition with high frets, fret sprout, bad strings, fretboard was dried out, saddle was leaning forward because the slot was too big, neck was over-bowed (too much relief), and the action was way too high. I spent 80 dollars on the tools (I purchased them directly from China) and did the set up myself. I crowned and polished my frets, oiled the fretboard, shimmed the saddle slot, replaced my strings, adjusted the truss rod and brought the action down to suit easier play. My guitar's sound, after 3 months is absolutely warm and beautiful and so easy to play with silk wound 11 47 strings. I just purchased a new electric and amp. I did that set up too. THANKS TO ALL OF YOU that share your knowledge for those of us without the money to spend on professional luthiers.
Have you looked at the Music Nomad tools? Geared towards DIY and not the professional luthier. I find the Music Nomad system easier to use. Take a look at the KISS kit and nut files. Their tools are reverse ontrast and easier to see. Their files are encased to lessen the chance of damage if you slip on filing the nut. StewMac to me is for the professional making a living with their tools. For DIY hobbyist, I feel Music Nomad offers a nicer system.
I have been playing guitar since I was 22. I’m 70 years old now. I am very grateful for videos on RUclips. That show me how to work on my guitars without a set up man. It gets too expensive, especially when you live on a fixed income. So I truly appreciate your videos and showing people how to do things. I think RUclips is a great tool for learning how to work on guitars and learning music. RUclips has some really good teachers. And they also have some beautiful solo instrumental, music finger style guitar. That’s all I play because I don’t sing. So I’m very grateful for the things I learned on RUclips. Thanks for your videos. Have a great day..👍🏼👍🏼😎😁🎸🎼🎶🎵🎸
Hi @markbrown7103, we really appreciate your comment! We agree, RUclips is an incredible platform to learn just about anything. We used to make VHS tapes and DVDs about this stuff, but it's so much easier and accessible for folks to just tune in for free. Thanks for the support, and keep on playing!
I love musical instruments, I started doing repairs and set ups on lesser guitars and built up my confidence. Its a great way to develop a different level of understanding with your guitars.
Take care of your instrument, and it will take care of you - even if, like me, you are never making the Hollywood Bowl. Great to hear the interaction between the techs and a master player like Tomo. Superb, educational content. Thanks, guys.
Do you have any videos on doing a setup on a vintage Rickenbacker? I have a 63 with two truss rods and can't seem to figure it out but don't want to damage it.
I can show you how to do it, and, every guitar you touch will sound and play like a bag of hammers. There's A B C D E to adjust, they're interactive with each other. Set up 1000 gtrs to find out. Gtr builders run out of steam when it comes to setting it up. Where you gonna Start?
When you adjust the truss rod, the neck should be supported where it joins the body not at the tuning headstock. When rest the the tuning head stock on a pillow you are putting tension on the whole length of the neck causing it bend slightly making your measurements a fraction out. This is critical for very low actions.
Great video! I have a Stewmac box coming in the mail today.....you guys do a great job in giving adverage players the confidence to do a lot of their own work. I will NEVER forget the nightmare of having the Guitar Center tech doing a set-up for me on a re-issue 61 Epiphone SG Special.....TOTAL DISASTER!!!! On the third time coming back to get it; I told them I wanted to exchange the guitar since he couldn't make it right.
Very good overview, especially with the order of doing things. This also allows people to know where to do research on each category. And a note to everyone, only do what you’re comfortable with and also, while thinking about it, don’t start filing or sanding frets or anything like that until you make sure they’re actually seated properly in the fretboard.. also, if a guitar is ever fallen over or things like that, you may have dents in your frets and don’t let this totally throw off everything you’re doing. There a ways to go about adjusting for this if you don’t want to re-free your guitar.. if you have a Floyd Rose, there is a tool that allows you to hold each saddle in place, you don’t have to have this, kind of nice to not have to have the sliding all over the place if you’ve not done it before. Great video!
I will always remember discovering my Squire's fretwire had ridges all over from me playing 6 to 8 hours collectively about every single day, and a couple lines from falling over and the stainless steel cutting into them in a few spots. This was discovered after my E was fretting out on the 3rd fret through the crevice. After I sanded it level using a planed aluminum plate, it played better than before! *To this day, I will buy a guitar, play it stock with the rounded fretwire insisting I shouldn't plane it because I have so many guitars, and I always end up planing it.* The same with cheapo Brand-X guitars having necks as thick as a railroad tie. *I eventually end up sanding the neck down to shredding acceptable and reseal it.* I just finished the final coat of triple thick glaze enamel on one 10 minutes ago. *Those were the days when Stewmac was one of maybe 3 reputable sources for parts and tools, and 90% of shops couldn't do any real work, or they charged you as much as the junker guitar cost to buy.* I still remember buying "Parts is Parts" hardware for 5x what I buy it for today. 😮💨
I learned fretwork on my own because it's very expensive to have done by a pro, and few know how to do it well. Dents in frets, or if they're worn down wait until they're fairly significant, then level and crown them out, and of course polish at the end. It's also nice if you do 'rolled edges' which is a fancy term for making the ends of the frets round and smooth. It really feels great. But it does take quite a lot of effort.
The truss rod wrench, of course you can use a hex key, but a lot of people strip the truss rod bolt by using the wrong size wrench, especially because their using imperial unit on metric or vice versa. Make sure you're using the right size rather than just whatever works. Don't be afraid to take the neck off. It's easy. Just take it off, adjust it, and put it back on. It's just bolts.
*I remember doing this work in the mid 90's when our budget end guitars were made from plywood they called "laminate" lol.* Using guitar picks to measure action and one day discovering my Squire Bullet neck's fretwire was extremely pitted and lined from playing sometimes 6 to 8 hours every single day. *I was lucky to have a small aluminum plate to check the fretwires, sand them and a vintage Cort acoustic that after milling over a quarter inch off the bridge and bone saddle, had action as low as an electric that didn't buzz or fret out in any position on the neck.* I would play acoustic for about 4 hours in the morning/afternoon, and average 2 to sometimes 4 hours of electric at night. I must also confess, between those 2 guitars and an amp I built out of a hacked and screwed particleboard entertainment stand, 2 x 8"s from JC Whitney and a 60Khz peizo tweeter with a 15 watt 2-channel Crate practice amp mounted in the top, I was able to rocket passed every other player I knew in about a year. *A zoom 505, no namer humbucker and a few pedals including the Dallas Arbiter were cascaded together and gave me serious tones and response like Van Halen, Hendrix and even Pantera and Megadeth.* These days you can spend $300 bucks on a beginner's guitar and rig, and be shredding and sweeping in under a year there's so many resources
My local shop here in Asheville charges only $50 -- well worth it, if only to avoid the sky-high cost of decent nut files and the agony of the infamous "blown nut" syndrome. I've been playing for 60+ years, know how to do this sort of work, and still do the basics -- truss rod tweaks, saddle heights, intonation, wiring mods -- but no thanks, StewMac, when it comes to a thorough pro setup on a new (or newly acquired) instrument, IMO it's better to have somebody else take responsibility for getting it done right.
@@editorjuno $50 is a great deal! You're right. It takes a lot of "blown nuts" to get it right! Actually, a good friend of mine is a guitar builder. He has a set of Hosco nut files which cost about £90 but he's paid for them many times over, A worthy investment, but he tells me cutting a nut is not for the faint of heart!
How is this cheaper to do it yourself when the tools cost a lot more than a setup lol. Good info though and I do feel its better to learn and do it yourself.
I am glad you mentioned the different types of wrench needed. A few months ago I bought an FMT telecaster secondhand. I took it to the local shop because some of the frets need to be levelled and they swore blind the trussrod was broken because they couldn't adjust it. They even showed me a video of them trying. The next weekend I went into the shop, walked into the 'workshop' part, picked up a flat head screwdriver and sure enough, one adjustable trussrod. The numpties had only tried an allen key. What made it somewhat hilarious (and worrying) was that they had a different coloured version of the same guitar hanging on the wall for sale!
Great Vid. Dan's Erlewine's book has been my bible for decades, but it's so nice to watch a video where you can see it done and the how's and why's demonstrated and discussed by three experts.
It's crazy how different everyone likes their setups. I know guys who play / sound amazing but their setups are really weird. Action all over the place, flat bridge radius on a 7.25 fretboard ect... Whatever works for the player is what is best. I think people who play an instrument should know how to set it up to their liking / maintain it and experiment LOTS in that realm. Also having the right tools for the job is very important and under looked. Sure, there are substitutes, but why compromise?
I’ve been doing most of my setups because my guitar tech is 80 miles away. Also, because of that I’ve been doing it for others when I have time. ✌️😎🎸🎶🎵🎶🎵🎶
I'm a bassist and always have relief in the neck. If you play with a low action & no relief, all you hear is buzzing strings. I use very light strings 30-95.
I do my own setups for over 50 years I have a system, nut, level, action, relief near straight. I get 1mm action barely any buzz all my guitars. Jackson PRS AND Fender the best necks.
Once I understood that almost no luthier was insured to protect the value of priceless instruments on their property I had to learn how to do it myself. My guitars have never been better.
Everybody wants a dead straight neck nowadays... I'm more convinced with Leo Fender's specs that there should be a tiny bit of relief in the neck. 005-010. For me it feels better and sounds better. That is were the neck wants to sit. You don't need these very expensive tools except for the nut files and maybe a notched straight edge for consumer purposes. Luthiers are another story. They are making a living out of it. In these expensive times hobby guitar players are very happy to search for cheaper alternatives which gives you 90% accuracy. The other 10% can be done by feel or by ear. I'm sorry Stewmac. I think your products are very good indeed but way overpriced.
Excellent comprehensive overview of the process. Especially helpful were the "starting point" numbers. My only cringe was trying to draw a distinction between the open string vs the 12th fret harmonic when setting the intonation. The harmonic is by definition exactly one octave higher than the open string; it's pitch will be exactly twice that of the open string, and will in fact match the fretted pitch that you're going for. It's just physics. High E is E4, 1st harmonic is E5, the fretted note is E5. A decent tuner will get the same result but the idea that using the open string being somehow "better" is unfounded.
I do tire of paying a tech who sets you up with .012" relief and 5/64"-4/64" action ... then the other tech who doesn't measure anything and you're buzzing everywhere.
There is so much to learn. And the tools do matter. I am about 12 guitars strong...depending on state of build or fix. Most of my guitars come to me broken and super cheap or even free. I am about $500 into luthier tools. Probably more after I got the nut files. Ouch, $$$...but they are the only tools to use for string slots. To be honest, I think I spend more envy on tools than on guitars these days. But I love working on guitars. Making broken guitars play again, making cheepos play better, etc. I only have one expensive 'new' guitar. They all play like expensive guitars when I finish them. Except for one with a broken truss rod. My error. Now it's got sky-high action and it's dedicated to open tunings and slide. Fortunately it wasn't an expensive instrument and it was used. And it's nice to have a dedicated slide guitar in the quiver.
Re: Intonation, listen to what you said! The problem with incorrect intonation would be obvious if you fret at the 12th. So, how can you identify incorrectness without fretting the 12th? And, with minimal string height, pressing at the 12th is not going to be anything near "bending" the string. From my perspective, you've got it backwards since all notes on the guitar, except open notes, involve fretting. Thus, if anything, you might find that, to have those 110 notes be on pitch, the open notes might need to be "off" somewhat.
I find it hard to believe they don't set up your guitar before you buy it. Especially from the guitar center. I did mine myself right off the bat. I just wanted to understand my guitar better. It's a shame because i was a new player so i didn't know what the guitar was supposed to sound like and blamed myself until i felt comfortable enough to change the nut the wiring on my guitar. And that finally solved my problem the last of my complaints. I think a lot of decent guitars get a bad rap because they aren't sent home with the customer not in playing condition. A set up takes like 15 minutes as good as it is to know yourself how to do this. Any guitar over 300 should be set up for the customer.
I just set the neck on my friend’s guitar neck. Shimmed the neck, set the saddle radius, straightened the neck, restrung, ect… I don’t charge any $$. Hoping a car guy will show me the same kindness to change brakes and rotors on my cars lol
Thanks! I am one of the victims of Epiphone's lousy $99 Les Paul knockoff of a few years ago. The pandemic came, the Guitar Center I was going to have set it up for me went belly up, and the whole idea has been in limbo ever since.
Tried taking this route but I become obsessed with the intonation, and as far as I can tell it can never be perfect so I stress over it endlessly u til I can't even play music anymore. If I just pay to have it done then I can tell myself the job was done and move on.
I mean I don't get this mentality tho The guitar tech is gonna do the same thing as you They will go "close enough" and then give it back to you It's a give and take scenario You know your playing so adjust for your playing, if you have bad intonation after adjusting it then look at your playing Or even you string height If it's too high you'll be bend it sharper than pitch Don't over think it, start playing guitar not just tuning the whole time
I have a top notch guy and he’s worked for some pretty big names. Getting a guitar back from him doing a setup is like going to a 5 star restaurant and worth it. I could always get my stuff playable and what I thought was good but it don’t compare to his
great stuff and good to know if you don't have a shop that does good setups. It is so rare I need to take one in I don't mind paying the $ (and supporting local shop) and I typically DIY a LOT of more difficult stuff.
most important adjustment is the nut of the guitar and i hate idiotic fender tuners, gibson tune o matic is far superior, i cant tell you the number of idiotic fender tuners that rusted up, and i always use heavy guage minumum 12 guage, the guitar stays in tune better and you can forget breaking strings, so after many years of making the same misteaks i finaly got it right
After 51 years of playing, I've gone to 9s. :) These guys know the real deal. That said, once StewMac tells me what I need, I go find it for half the price elsewhere, and free shipping to boot. Buying a $20 part with $20 added for shipping never sits well with me. ;)
There’s a great 5 or so minute clip with John Suhr on tone talk that goes through his recommendations. Super helpful. Also Tom Webber, EVHs old tech has a video. It’s based on Floyd Rose guitars but the first 5 and last 5 minutes are very very good.
When I adjust the neck pickup, with dome shaped adjustment screws, I start at putting it at same height as the top of dome of the screw…that’s usually my Sweetness with pickups that are at or around 6k ohms
I gotta get me a set of all these tools. Doing things by eye ain’t cutting it anymore. Thanks for showing us what happens when you use the right tools!
I have it down to a science and have setup many acoustic guitars. Learn how to make the nut right and the other stuff. Nothing worse than someone handing their guitar to play the action a mile high
Agree 100% - changes the entire experience. I'd also add: any Fret Buzz , as I like every note to "Ring True" - I do all my own work on electric guitar, bass & acoustic. oNe LovE from NYC
Great video, as someone who is learning this trade my biggest frustration is the use of different measurements i.e. fraction, thousandths, millimeters etc. I have conversion charts but I guess it is preference. Thanks for the great content!!!
We’ll done. The Gibson tailpiece screwdriver is great especially if you want to preserve the screw slots AND the maple top!! Lee Valley (Canada) tools sell one that looks a doorknob (used for plate glass screws) that fits the Gibson perfectly.
You can fill the nut slots with pencil led and use that as a guide line to see where you're taking off the material, also grind the square corners of the nut files'round/smooth' to keep from gouging into the headstock in case you slip.
I replaced my nut and bridge saddles with graphite, so this isn't even an issue, but for a certain tone of course a lot of people want different materials.
Probably the worst video for guitarists. We all want our guitar stores to stay open, so if you cant sling your local store 30 bucks for a set up, then don't be surprised when the store closes.
That long straight edge and some feeler gauges are what got my setups on point. My guitars have never played so well! Even my $50 Epiphone Les Paul plays like a champ now that it is properly set up.
Great video, as someone who is learning this trade my biggest frustration is the use of different measurements i.e. fraction, thousandths, millimeters etc. I have conversion charts but I guess it is preference. Thanks for the great content!!!
Ok, thank you, this is a very good video with much needed information for guitar owners to maintain their setups. I have been doing these adjustments for many years now and I am actually an expert in doing fret jobs, all sorts. The one step I respectfully take issue with is setting the nut, this should be done after the relief is set, and its done in this way; fret each individual string at the third fret and measure the string gap at the first fret wire - the gap should be very little. As a reference I usually go from .020" to .012" incrementally from the bottom E to the top e. Then your bridge can be set up for a proper gap at the 12th fret. Just my honest opinion, and I have been getting excellent results doing it this way for years. I think I learned this from Dan Erlewine and Frank Ford, its been a while tho. I primarily play a Maton acoustic guitar with an action of .058"(1.47mm) for low E, and .052" (1.32mm) for high e. I hope this also helps someone to get the action they want.
For string height I always use feeler gauges, it's not a specialized thing so when you get one you can use it for different projects too if you're into that... It's super accurate and repeatable
Very helpful and conclusive overview! When I set up my own guita's action (assuming fretwork is done and aiming for a fairly low action) - I go by: Step 1 > filing nut slots relative to fret 1, this is the point least affected by other setup steps so it sets the starting pint best; Step 2 > neck curve AND bridge - this simply is a back and forth thing to me, I set the bridge to the radius and then action to 1.25mm on high e with truss rod adjusting - check for buzzing and adjust accordingly then check the highest frets for buzz, if necessary raise the bridge (or saddles individually whil roughly retaining the radius) - back and forth until you're happy.
I really think you should recommend feeler gauges. It makes adjusting the neck way less scary and you can reference the specs of the manufacturer for neck relief as a first guide
I'm 81. Been playing since I was 14. There was no one doing this stuff when I was young. Had to learn how to do all this on my own. There wasn't any thing like this and it took years. Thanks for this and other videos from Stew Mac.
I hope at 81 I’m still playing guitar, god bless you man 🎉
Imagine if we had this information at our disposal when we were young. The things we would have learned and been able to pass on to the upcoming musicians would be even more advanced.
I’m 48, playing since I was 13 - similar plot line to your experience, good sir. We truly are in a golden age of music pedagogy at this moment.
@@Grizzleback07We could have learned it before, but only the real geeks did. Stew Mac tool ads were featured in Guitar Player magazine decades ago, long before the Internet. Obviously it's easier now, but it was never impossible to become a luthier, or just learn to fix your own guitar; It just took a lot more effort in the past.
Dude, there were no electric guitars when you were young.
They actually convinced me to pay for the set up😂
Ignorance is bliss, but now you can tell if you got a $100 setup for $100 or a $20 setup for $100. Splurge on the card like string gauge and a $15 headband magnifier if you're over 40.
I was thinking the same thing.
Agreed!
I love that Tomo is not afraid to ask questions. That's the right mindset there!
Agreed!
Tomo is such an icon he’s definitely a treasure in my world! Great to see him with stewmac once again you two have to play together again!
Luthiers on RUclips saved me. I'm a 70 year old self taught beginner. I play the keyboard. I bought a 350 dollar acoustic guitar from B stock for 195 dollars. It was in poor condition with high frets, fret sprout, bad strings, fretboard was dried out, saddle was leaning forward because the slot was too big, neck was over-bowed (too much relief), and the action was way too high. I spent 80 dollars on the tools (I purchased them directly from China) and did the set up myself. I crowned and polished my frets, oiled the fretboard, shimmed the saddle slot, replaced my strings, adjusted the truss rod and brought the action down to suit easier play. My guitar's sound, after 3 months is absolutely warm and beautiful and so easy to play with silk wound 11 47 strings. I just purchased a new electric and amp. I did that set up too. THANKS TO ALL OF YOU that share your knowledge for those of us without the money to spend on professional luthiers.
Kinda funny to slam those shops who have purchased your products for so many years...weird really? Did you ever even think about that?
Didn’t see any slamming. Rather an alternate path for people on a budget and/or interested in DIY, looking to learn
Have you looked at the Music Nomad tools? Geared towards DIY and not the professional luthier. I find the Music Nomad system easier to use. Take a look at the KISS kit and nut files. Their tools are reverse ontrast and easier to see. Their files are encased to lessen the chance of damage if you slip on filing the nut. StewMac to me is for the professional making a living with their tools. For DIY hobbyist, I feel Music Nomad offers a nicer system.
Our host sounds like Tom Hanks.
... or Matt Walsh, Daily Wire Dude..
😂😂😂. So much like him.
Do it on cheap broken guitars first. Get in there baby. 😂
I have been playing guitar since I was 22. I’m 70 years old now. I am very grateful for videos on RUclips. That show me how to work on my guitars without a set up man. It gets too expensive, especially when you live on a fixed income. So I truly appreciate your videos and showing people how to do things. I think RUclips is a great tool for learning how to work on guitars and learning music. RUclips has some really good teachers. And they also have some beautiful solo instrumental, music finger style guitar. That’s all I play because I don’t sing. So I’m very grateful for the things I learned on RUclips. Thanks for your videos. Have a great day..👍🏼👍🏼😎😁🎸🎼🎶🎵🎸
Hi @markbrown7103, we really appreciate your comment! We agree, RUclips is an incredible platform to learn just about anything. We used to make VHS tapes and DVDs about this stuff, but it's so much easier and accessible for folks to just tune in for free. Thanks for the support, and keep on playing!
@@stewmacdoes the tool you use to raise/lower the bridge on the 335 come with the set up pack?
I am 71 if we would have had the internet back then what would Hendrix sound like
always set my own guitars up, but you can always learn from someone who has more experience than you.
You should not use the truss rod to Adjust the action.
I think stop buying expensive tools and instead start making your own tools is a great idea too !!!
I love musical instruments, I started doing repairs and set ups on lesser guitars and built up my confidence. Its a great way to develop a different level of understanding with your guitars.
I use my Stewmac tech wrench set every time I work on an instrument. Indispensable.
Take care of your instrument, and it will take care of you - even if, like me, you are never making the Hollywood Bowl. Great to hear the interaction between the techs and a master player like Tomo. Superb, educational content. Thanks, guys.
Guitar setup - Get everything as good as you can, then juggle the compromises to make it play and sound how you like it 😃
Every time I see the thumbnail for this video, I think The Lone Gunman aren't dead‽
Do you have any videos on doing a setup on a vintage Rickenbacker? I have a 63 with two truss rods and can't seem to figure it out but don't want to damage it.
I can show you how to do it, and, every guitar you touch will sound and play like a bag of hammers. There's A B C D E to adjust, they're interactive with each other. Set up 1000 gtrs to find out. Gtr builders run out of steam when it comes to setting it up. Where you gonna Start?
When you adjust the truss rod, the neck should be supported where it joins the body not at the tuning headstock. When rest the the tuning head stock on a pillow you are putting tension on the whole length of the neck causing it bend slightly making your measurements a fraction out. This is critical for very low actions.
Great video! I have a Stewmac box coming in the mail today.....you guys do a great job in giving adverage players the confidence to do a lot of their own work. I will NEVER forget the nightmare of having the Guitar Center tech doing a set-up for me on a re-issue 61 Epiphone SG Special.....TOTAL DISASTER!!!! On the third time coming back to get it; I told them I wanted to exchange the guitar since he couldn't make it right.
Yikes - sounds horrible. Hopefully you can do most of that work on your own now, and avoid more bad experiences!
Very good overview, especially with the order of doing things.
This also allows people to know where to do research on each category.
And a note to everyone, only do what you’re comfortable with and also, while thinking about it, don’t start filing or sanding frets or anything like that until you make sure they’re actually seated properly in the fretboard.. also, if a guitar is ever fallen over or things like that, you may have dents in your frets and don’t let this totally throw off everything you’re doing. There a ways to go about adjusting for this if you don’t want to re-free your guitar..
if you have a Floyd Rose, there is a tool that allows you to hold each saddle in place, you don’t have to have this, kind of nice to not have to have the sliding all over the place if you’ve not done it before.
Great video!
Thank you for the comment!
I will always remember discovering my Squire's fretwire had ridges all over from me playing 6 to 8 hours collectively about every single day, and a couple lines from falling over and the stainless steel cutting into them in a few spots. This was discovered after my E was fretting out on the 3rd fret through the crevice. After I sanded it level using a planed aluminum plate, it played better than before!
*To this day, I will buy a guitar, play it stock with the rounded fretwire insisting I shouldn't plane it because I have so many guitars, and I always end up planing it.* The same with cheapo Brand-X guitars having necks as thick as a railroad tie. *I eventually end up sanding the neck down to shredding acceptable and reseal it.* I just finished the final coat of triple thick glaze enamel on one 10 minutes ago.
*Those were the days when Stewmac was one of maybe 3 reputable sources for parts and tools, and 90% of shops couldn't do any real work, or they charged you as much as the junker guitar cost to buy.* I still remember buying "Parts is Parts" hardware for 5x what I buy it for today. 😮💨
I learned fretwork on my own because it's very expensive to have done by a pro, and few know how to do it well. Dents in frets, or if they're worn down wait until they're fairly significant, then level and crown them out, and of course polish at the end.
It's also nice if you do 'rolled edges' which is a fancy term for making the ends of the frets round and smooth. It really feels great. But it does take quite a lot of effort.
Been playing for over 50 years and I still suck. Guess I’m missing one important thing. Talent…..
I love StewMac, most of my tools come from you guys, but your shipping charges are garbage.
Am_zon
i can set up my non FR guitar. but for FR type, I'll always pay someone to do it. i don't wanna waste my time and handle the stress. lol.
Gene sounds exactly like Tom Hanks. This is the first video from this channel I have seen. I am sure I am not the first person to notice that
Why would you alter the tailpiece, bridge or saddle height under string tension? Surely you loosen off the strings before altering these.
Remember to set intonation using the neck pickup
The truss rod wrench, of course you can use a hex key, but a lot of people strip the truss rod bolt by using the wrong size wrench, especially because their using imperial unit on metric or vice versa. Make sure you're using the right size rather than just whatever works.
Don't be afraid to take the neck off. It's easy. Just take it off, adjust it, and put it back on. It's just bolts.
Excellent points!
*I remember doing this work in the mid 90's when our budget end guitars were made from plywood they called "laminate" lol.* Using guitar picks to measure action and one day discovering my Squire Bullet neck's fretwire was extremely pitted and lined from playing sometimes 6 to 8 hours every single day.
*I was lucky to have a small aluminum plate to check the fretwires, sand them and a vintage Cort acoustic that after milling over a quarter inch off the bridge and bone saddle, had action as low as an electric that didn't buzz or fret out in any position on the neck.* I would play acoustic for about 4 hours in the morning/afternoon, and average 2 to sometimes 4 hours of electric at night.
I must also confess, between those 2 guitars and an amp I built out of a hacked and screwed particleboard entertainment stand, 2 x 8"s from JC Whitney and a 60Khz peizo tweeter with a 15 watt 2-channel Crate practice amp mounted in the top, I was able to rocket passed every other player I knew in about a year. *A zoom 505, no namer humbucker and a few pedals including the Dallas Arbiter were cascaded together and gave me serious tones and response like Van Halen, Hendrix and even Pantera and Megadeth.*
These days you can spend $300 bucks on a beginner's guitar and rig, and be shredding and sweeping in under a year there's so many resources
These videos are pure gold! Local repair shops are standing by, waiting for you to screw it up and give in!
My local shop here in Asheville charges only $50 -- well worth it, if only to avoid the sky-high cost of decent nut files and the agony of the infamous "blown nut" syndrome. I've been playing for 60+ years, know how to do this sort of work, and still do the basics -- truss rod tweaks, saddle heights, intonation, wiring mods -- but no thanks, StewMac, when it comes to a thorough pro setup on a new (or newly acquired) instrument, IMO it's better to have somebody else take responsibility for getting it done right.
@@editorjuno $50 is a great deal! You're right. It takes a lot of "blown nuts" to get it right! Actually, a good friend of mine is a guitar builder. He has a set of Hosco nut files which cost about £90 but he's paid for them many times over, A worthy investment, but he tells me cutting a nut is not for the faint of heart!
@@editorjuno What does 'blown' mean? Too many tweaks with the file?
@@RideAcrossTheRiver -- Yeah, it's all too easy to cut the notches too deep in pursuit of the lowest possible action.
@@editorjuno Sadly, Fender doesn't finish a guitar nut on a Strat.
How is this cheaper to do it yourself when the tools cost a lot more than a setup lol. Good info though and I do feel its better to learn and do it yourself.
I am glad you mentioned the different types of wrench needed. A few months ago I bought an FMT telecaster secondhand. I took it to the local shop because some of the frets need to be levelled and they swore blind the trussrod was broken because they couldn't adjust it. They even showed me a video of them trying.
The next weekend I went into the shop, walked into the 'workshop' part, picked up a flat head screwdriver and sure enough, one adjustable trussrod. The numpties had only tried an allen key. What made it somewhat hilarious (and worrying) was that they had a different coloured version of the same guitar hanging on the wall for sale!
Great Vid. Dan's Erlewine's book has been my bible for decades, but it's so nice to watch a video where you can see it done and the how's and why's demonstrated and discussed by three experts.
I demand a 1mm action on the treble and bass strings. If you hand me my guitar with anything hesides that then you didnt do what i said.
Don't pay setups; pay me 25 times more for this tools and do it yourself! 😏
It's crazy how different everyone likes their setups. I know guys who play / sound amazing but their setups are really weird. Action all over the place, flat bridge radius on a 7.25 fretboard ect...
Whatever works for the player is what is best. I think people who play an instrument should know how to set it up to their liking / maintain it and experiment LOTS in that realm. Also having the right tools for the job is very important and under looked. Sure, there are substitutes, but why compromise?
People want speed, thats good but phrasing and your own style are more important.santana deep purrple come to mind.
I’ve been doing most of my setups because my guitar tech is 80 miles away. Also, because of that I’ve been doing it for others when I have time.
✌️😎🎸🎶🎵🎶🎵🎶
If Wayne’s World did guitar tech 😂
I'm a bassist and always have relief in the neck. If you play with a low action & no relief, all you hear is buzzing strings. I use very light strings 30-95.
I do my own setups for over 50 years I have a system, nut, level, action, relief near straight. I get 1mm action barely any buzz all my guitars. Jackson PRS AND Fender the best necks.
Once I understood that almost no luthier was insured to protect the value of priceless instruments on their property I had to learn how to do it myself.
My guitars have never been better.
Everybody wants a dead straight neck nowadays... I'm more convinced with Leo Fender's specs that there should be a tiny bit of relief in the neck. 005-010. For me it feels better and sounds better. That is were the neck wants to sit. You don't need these very expensive tools except for the nut files and maybe a notched straight edge for consumer purposes. Luthiers are another story. They are making a living out of it. In these expensive times hobby guitar players are very happy to search for cheaper alternatives which gives you 90% accuracy. The other 10% can be done by feel or by ear. I'm sorry Stewmac. I think your products are very good indeed but way overpriced.
Excellent comprehensive overview of the process. Especially helpful were the "starting point" numbers. My only cringe was trying to draw a distinction between the open string vs the 12th fret harmonic when setting the intonation. The harmonic is by definition exactly one octave higher than the open string; it's pitch will be exactly twice that of the open string, and will in fact match the fretted pitch that you're going for. It's just physics. High E is E4, 1st harmonic is E5, the fretted note is E5. A decent tuner will get the same result but the idea that using the open string being somehow "better" is unfounded.
I do tire of paying a tech who sets you up with .012" relief and 5/64"-4/64" action ... then the other tech who doesn't measure anything and you're buzzing everywhere.
SO I HAVE TO SPEND 56789450493847340 DOLLARS IN ORDER TO SAVE 100 ???? DUDE TAKE MY 100 I WANT IT FOR NEXT MONDAY !!!!
There is so much to learn. And the tools do matter. I am about 12 guitars strong...depending on state of build or fix. Most of my guitars come to me broken and super cheap or even free. I am about $500 into luthier tools. Probably more after I got the nut files. Ouch, $$$...but they are the only tools to use for string slots. To be honest, I think I spend more envy on tools than on guitars these days. But I love working on guitars. Making broken guitars play again, making cheepos play better, etc. I only have one expensive 'new' guitar. They all play like expensive guitars when I finish them. Except for one with a broken truss rod. My error. Now it's got sky-high action and it's dedicated to open tunings and slide. Fortunately it wasn't an expensive instrument and it was used. And it's nice to have a dedicated slide guitar in the quiver.
Appreciate the video. Could you do an acoustic specific setup video?
Re: Intonation, listen to what you said! The problem with incorrect intonation would be obvious if you fret at the 12th. So, how can you identify incorrectness without fretting the 12th? And, with minimal string height, pressing at the 12th is not going to be anything near "bending" the string.
From my perspective, you've got it backwards since all notes on the guitar, except open notes, involve fretting. Thus, if anything, you might find that, to have those 110 notes be on pitch, the open notes might need to be "off" somewhat.
Godo stuff, guys. I ALWAYS enjoy your videos!
Any tips for setting up a floating style PRS trem/bridge system?
It does not span two frets. It spans two FRETWIRE. Frets are the space between the fretwires. Also, the tailpiece is held on by bolts, NOT screws.
I find it hard to believe they don't set up your guitar before you buy it. Especially from the guitar center.
I did mine myself right off the bat.
I just wanted to understand my guitar better.
It's a shame because i was a new player so i didn't know what the guitar was supposed to sound like and blamed myself until i felt comfortable enough to change the nut the wiring on my guitar.
And that finally solved my problem the last of my complaints.
I think a lot of decent guitars get a bad rap because they aren't sent home with the customer not in playing condition.
A set up takes like 15 minutes as good as it is to know yourself how to do this. Any guitar over 300 should be set up for the customer.
I just set the neck on my friend’s guitar neck. Shimmed the neck, set the saddle radius, straightened the neck, restrung, ect… I don’t charge any $$. Hoping a car guy will show me the same kindness to change brakes and rotors on my cars lol
Thanks! I am one of the victims of Epiphone's lousy $99 Les Paul knockoff of a few years ago. The pandemic came, the Guitar Center I was going to have set it up for me went belly up, and the whole idea has been in limbo ever since.
There's tools, and then there's skill and experience. Can't buy that.
Tried taking this route but I become obsessed with the intonation, and as far as I can tell it can never be perfect so I stress over it endlessly u til I can't even play music anymore. If I just pay to have it done then I can tell myself the job was done and move on.
I mean I don't get this mentality tho
The guitar tech is gonna do the same thing as you
They will go "close enough" and then give it back to you
It's a give and take scenario
You know your playing so adjust for your playing, if you have bad intonation after adjusting it then look at your playing
Or even you string height
If it's too high you'll be bend it sharper than pitch
Don't over think it, start playing guitar not just tuning the whole time
I have a top notch guy and he’s worked for some pretty big names. Getting a guitar back from him doing a setup is like going to a 5 star restaurant and worth it. I could always get my stuff playable and what I thought was good but it don’t compare to his
So stewmac wants to stab all its guitar tech customers in the back ?
The new owner of stewmac is not looking good. ..
great stuff and good to know if you don't have a shop that does good setups. It is so rare I need to take one in I don't mind paying the $ (and supporting local shop) and I typically DIY a LOT of more difficult stuff.
most important adjustment is the nut of the guitar and i hate idiotic fender tuners, gibson tune o matic is far superior, i cant tell you the number of idiotic fender tuners that rusted up, and i always use heavy guage minumum 12 guage, the guitar stays in tune better and you can forget breaking strings, so after many years of making the same misteaks i finaly got it right
After 51 years of playing, I've gone to 9s. :)
These guys know the real deal. That said, once StewMac tells me what I need, I go find it for half the price elsewhere, and free shipping to boot. Buying a $20 part with $20 added for shipping never sits well with me. ;)
There’s a great 5 or so minute clip with John Suhr on tone talk that goes through his recommendations. Super helpful. Also Tom Webber, EVHs old tech has a video. It’s based on Floyd Rose guitars but the first 5 and last 5 minutes are very very good.
the holy trinity of guitar techs
Subscribed. I have your Kits, I laughed thinking I know most of this and learned a ton.
When I adjust the neck pickup, with dome shaped adjustment screws, I start at putting it at same height as the top of dome of the screw…that’s usually my Sweetness with pickups that are at or around 6k ohms
Thank you StewMac for sending more business my way.
8:41 these brands mass producing cookie cutter guitars dont make the best guitars man, wake up
... Unless you have a double locking tremolo... 🙄
I gotta get me a set of all these tools. Doing things by eye ain’t cutting it anymore. Thanks for showing us what happens when you use the right tools!
spend thouusands on a guitar thats not even set up properly.. must be a gibson
I’m going to use this info to start building my tool set to at least keep my guitars in proper working order.
I have it down to a science and have setup many acoustic guitars. Learn how to make the nut right and the other stuff. Nothing worse than someone handing their guitar to play the action a mile high
Agree 100% - changes the entire experience. I'd also add: any Fret Buzz , as I like every note to "Ring True" - I do all my own work on electric guitar, bass & acoustic. oNe LovE from NYC
Great video, as someone who is learning this trade my biggest frustration is the use of different measurements i.e. fraction, thousandths, millimeters etc. I have conversion charts but I guess it is preference. Thanks for the great content!!!
This is a conversation between pros, so it leaves us beginners lost at some key points.
‘Thank you for telling people to stop paying for setups.’ Love, professional guitar techs and luthiers everywhere.
One of my favorite skills I've learned for guitar
this is my new years resolution
I see those shops, the tools on the background and feel so envious. Nice video.
Super good, Thank You so much. Very informative... 👍👍 🇺🇸.
We’ll done. The Gibson tailpiece screwdriver is great especially if you want to preserve the screw slots AND the maple top!!
Lee Valley (Canada) tools sell one that looks a doorknob (used for plate glass screws) that fits the Gibson perfectly.
"if you can't get a clean shot at the rod, you gotta take off the neck." words to live by.
I found feeler gauges with a magnifying glass the most precise method to measure string height above fret. Ohterwise great video.
I mean this is just a buy our stuff ad. Not one real explanation 😂
That StewMac was the first giveaway...no?
You can fill the nut slots with pencil led and use that as a guide line to see where you're taking off the material, also grind the square corners of the nut files'round/smooth' to keep from gouging into the headstock in case you slip.
I replaced my nut and bridge saddles with graphite, so this isn't even an issue, but for a certain tone of course a lot of people want different materials.
une guitare correctement réglée, c'est essentiel et très personnel.
Probably the worst video for guitarists. We all want our guitar stores to stay open, so if you cant sling your local store 30 bucks for a set up, then don't be surprised when the store closes.
Amen to the like.
That long straight edge and some feeler gauges are what got my setups on point. My guitars have never played so well! Even my $50 Epiphone Les Paul plays like a champ now that it is properly set up.
Great video, as someone who is learning this trade my biggest frustration is the use of different measurements i.e. fraction, thousandths, millimeters etc. I have conversion charts but I guess it is preference. Thanks for the great content!!!
what a bout the nut its to high open chords will not play in tune
Kudos very nice video, down to Earth. Wish I was there but this is the next best
Ok, thank you, this is a very good video with much needed information for guitar owners to maintain their setups. I have been doing these adjustments for many years now and I am actually an expert in doing fret jobs, all sorts. The one step I respectfully take issue with is setting the nut, this should be done after the relief is set, and its done in this way; fret each individual string at the third fret and measure the string gap at the first fret wire - the gap should be very little. As a reference I usually go from .020" to .012" incrementally from the bottom E to the top e. Then your bridge can be set up for a proper gap at the 12th fret. Just my honest opinion, and I have been getting excellent results doing it this way for years. I think I learned this from Dan Erlewine and Frank Ford, its been a while tho. I primarily play a Maton acoustic guitar with an action of .058"(1.47mm) for low E, and .052" (1.32mm) for high e. I hope this also helps someone to get the action they want.
wish they’d done a step by step for dummies - feels like i crashed into a part 2 with no basic info why, what, how
For string height I always use feeler gauges, it's not a specialized thing so when you get one you can use it for different projects too if you're into that... It's super accurate and repeatable
Absolutely. Only a lunatic would measure thousandths with a ruler.
must tune in playing postion
Very helpful and conclusive overview!
When I set up my own guita's action (assuming fretwork is done and aiming for a fairly low action) - I go by: Step 1 > filing nut slots relative to fret 1, this is the point least affected by other setup steps so it sets the starting pint best; Step 2 > neck curve AND bridge - this simply is a back and forth thing to me, I set the bridge to the radius and then action to 1.25mm on high e with truss rod adjusting - check for buzzing and adjust accordingly then check the highest frets for buzz, if necessary raise the bridge (or saddles individually whil roughly retaining the radius) - back and forth until you're happy.
I really think you should recommend feeler gauges. It makes adjusting the neck way less scary and you can reference the specs of the manufacturer for neck relief as a first guide