Home Projects: How to Install a Basement Utility/Laundry Sink
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- In this video I show how I installed a basement laundry/utility sink with an in-line sump pump, copper water supply piping, and a PVC drain. I cover the basics on sweating copper pipes and gluing PVC parts together as well as assembling the sink and pump motor.
UPDATE: For installing the pump I made a new video and highly recommend the pump in this video is not used, but this better one instead: • Home Projects: How to ...
Project Components:
Sink and Faucet Kit: amzn.to/3sNQZ4i
PVC Unions: amzn.to/2SYxH5C
Tapcon Screws: amzn.to/2qC5AfD
PVC Glue Kit: amzn.to/2AU0EZN
Tools Used:
Milwaukee SDS Plus Rotary Hammer Drill: amzn.to/2JQ94nJ
Bosch SDS Plus Bits: amzn.to/2SXSuGr
Milwaukee M12 Fuel Kit: amzn.to/2JPGLWw
Copper Pipe Cutter: amzn.to/2PNlthH
Copper Pipe Cleaner Tool: amzn.to/2DuOU2b
Deburring Tool: amzn.to/2AT3QES
Bosch 18V Circular Saw: amzn.to/2SRbGWB
Milwaukee M18 Trueview LED Stand Light: amzn.to/2SYhrBO
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I’ve done this installation and yours is the best video on RUclips. It beats the one by Rich T. from ‘This Old House’ - great work.
Really liked your video, clear and concise, thank you.
Best video I've found on RUclips Thanks
Thank you
Very helpful video. I still think I'm gonna mess this up, but it won't be your fault!
Kyle, you won't learn without making mistakes. I would never advise someone to do work on their house if they aren't comfortable with it, especially if it was plumbing or electrical but this kind of stuff is great to learn and have as skills as a home owner. If you can do it, you will never be dependent on someone else. With youtube you can learn pretty much everything. Start on the workbench with the joints if you're sweating and get good at it before you cut into anything. The most important thing is to be prepared, have everything, buy spares and extra, you can always return the rest. Have a plan and shut off the water supply, have a backup plan in case the shutoff leaks and it will be a breeze. Thanks for watching!
@@briancnc Awesome advice and tutorial. I think this might be too much for me to do but when you mentioned possibly $800 for a plumber, YIKES!
I've already bought the sink, faucet and pump but neglected to check the plumber's price.
I'll do as much as I can and stop when I know that I am getting above my head.
Thanks, I'll keep watching!
@@LorettaKeyWest1 Thanks for your comments and for watching! It's a tough project for a diyer but you will learn great skills in this. Once you learn how to sweat one copper pipe well or glue one pvc joint, install one valve, you can do it all. Just make certain that you shut off your house supply and that it's a ball valve, drain the pipes in your house by opening the lowest faucet and ensure the house shutoff isn't leaking. Then you can go to town. It helps a lot if you have a valve locally too so that in the event that you don't finish in one day you only have to shutoff say the basement branch of your water supply (hot/cold). Plumber's labor will vary area to area, it's worth having a quote ready and someone you can call if you get in over your head though. Best of luck!
@@briancnc Thank you Brian, I don't know how long I can live with the huge box the sink is in, so it'll have to go in soon. Thanks for the info and I will let you know how it goes.
Some really good advice in this--e.g., @2:34. Thanks.
Does this have to be Vented ?
Brian thanks for the video, this is exactly what I wanted, except that I have a bathroom rough-in made while we pour the concrete for basement and want the drain connect to it instead of the pump.
This helped me do a similar installation. Thanks a lot!!!
This video was so helpful! Genius. Had a quote from a plumber that i thought seemed high, but after watching this, I realized that the quote was completely reasonable! Thank you Brian, im so greatful that you took the time to do this for everyone! Great job with this! This job is definitely not in our skill set...yet. Lol! Maybe some day!
This was so helpful, thank you
You should have kept it the way you had it the correct orientation coming off of the pump should be check valve and then the ball valve for servicing on top of the check valve in case you ever have to service the check valve or the pump
When he first came in, I was like "ahhhh a ghost!"
Double the cost in 2023 :)
nice jobs ....thanks
Brasilian bosses are tough!
Mineira likely :-)
Nice job. I'm getting ready to do something similar. Keep on tackling those projects, the knowledge is priceless.
Usually the check valve is before the ball valve for servicing purpose. I really don’t recommend this pumps. Get one with a holding tank. Throttling the output is asking for trouble.
Simon, makes no difference really for the check valve. You're right though I would not install this particular pump again, it's loud and runs constantly. Ive installed both and the one you're referring to is much better, only cycles once every few minutes under constant use.
Thank you
I need this in my house!! I don't have a ball valve, my pump is hooked up to a small copper discharge pipe and the pump goes on and off continuously, but doesn't go on until the tub is almost full. Of course, the tub overflows and I have as mess!
I can't find anyone to install a new one.
Great video! I wonder why these pumps are always sold with a ball valve? Why doesn't the company just make a smaller motor. This seems to be a problem with every utility pump sold.
What size PVC did you use for your stack assembly?
you need to use a wye not a tee wye when connecting to your horizontal line
Nice, neat. Hired help not so much. Does every utility sink require a pump? ( I would like to install one in the garage. But I have to start from scratch. The laundry room is behind the wall and there's a drain, hot and cold water. But I want it on an adjacent wall 20' from the convenient wall.)
You installed your stop and waster upside down. the drain of the valve doesn't drain when it points up. Plus with the sink installed now you don't need that, just drain the line through the sink. Also you should use a sanitary wye not a t-wye on horizontal drainage. But all in all, nice job.
Which faucet would you have bought ??? They all seem to be plastic crap. Is that a kitchen faucet ??????
I think it would be better to install another ball valve above the check valve. You can hold waste water from above In case you need to change the check valve.
My laundry room is right below my kitchen. What is the potential for the laundry to back up to the kitchen sink with this drain method?
5:45 seu cafe ta amargo haha
Nice. 2” pvc?
Good video. TY......I'm doing the same and I'm wondering what kind of pump I can use. Can you please tell me where can I buy that pum ?
Thanks, there are links to all the parts used in the video description.
Looks like you are just learning
We all are, including yourself if you watched the video.
Well done video. What is the brand and type/name of pump you used please?
Hi Bob, Thank you. I really don't like this pump and just replaced it, in the long term it had a lot of short comings. I'm shooting a new video right now showing the new one. The new one I'm using is this one: amzn.to/47hGUwl I will post once I can verify it's working well for a week or so.
@@briancnc Thanks much Brian for the update. Great to know there are people like you willing to take the time and make the effort to give an honest assessment and advice based on your own knowledge and experience!
Brian, Bob inskeep again, and ready to install a basement sink and purchasing pump. Are you still satisfied with the pump you suggested via the link you provided prior from Amazon?
Nice video. Any reason to not use a 90degree sweep at the top of the drain stack (instead of two 45’s)?
Brian - great video. I am going to try this on my own. with help of your video. Do you have any suggestions on type of pump specifice?
I would highly recommend a pump like this one:
amzn.to/3OcVb5P
instead of the simmer pump I installed in the video. It has a basin that holds around 6 gallons so it will run very infrequently. The one I used in the video after awhile became very problematic. I will be shooting a video in about a week replacing it with this pump and post an update. I installed this one on another house and regretted not doing it on this one, was just trying to take up less space on this install but this pump runs continuously if the check valve leaks even the slightest.
I highly recommend the pump shown in this video, just published, rather than original I used. There is a link to it that video description as well. ruclips.net/video/wsBWhM0QDG8/видео.html
How do i convert laundry draining into laundry tub to a standpipe set up?
Interesting, My question though, so technically everything above the ball valve/check valve is still full of water then? or does it syphon itself? My drain line is actually about only 4-5 feet off the ground, and it has an open feed where the dishwasher dumps into, I was thinking about using a T fitting into that. Luckily my house is all pex so no copper or solder for me.
What is the pump you used for sink drain. Does it come with the sink?
It does not, see my most recent video though I show the better pump I switched to now. This pump was very problematic.
Is there no need for venting?
Unfortunately you can't really cleanly vent off with this unit unless you branch off underneath the sink (if there's space in the vertical). I've had this unit in for a few years now and I'm not super happy with it, will be switching to a vented sump pump type, look out for that video in the coming weeks.
So I actually installed my basement sink pump using this video as a guide and it was working great for about 1 day. I noticed one issue, I believe you are supposed to have a check valve directly off the pump, not after running a few feet (especially if running up). I installed my check valve as shown in the video and all the sudden my pump just started kicking on and off every 3 seconds. After unplugging the pump I noticed that all the water running towards the check valve but not passing it was just backflowing into the pump. Im going to run to home depot to install a check valve directly to the pump, im assuming that will fix it but I wonder if now im going to have an issue with added stress on my pump because of the two check valves. I may remove the other one but ill see. Anyway, has anyone elts had this issue following this guide or is my original valve just not working?
If you're referring to the original valve in the box it's garbage. I replaced with a higher quality check valve than even shown in the video and it's not perfect but works better. I will be replacing this setup with a different pump model that has a small holding tank. I had this on the first one I installed and although it costs more it's flawless.
Thanks for video, looks great!
Is it required to have the ball valve after the check valve?
With this setup absolutely. The ball valve compensates for the fact that the pump output is too powerful for the sink water input. By restricting the output flow it balances the flow out so that it doesn't short cycle it. Fyi and I will do a follow-up video I would not recommend this pump setup anymore, too many issues with leaky check valves. I'm going to be replacing the pump for one that has a holding tank as I had in my previous shop. Lessons learned!
Questions we installed one. And I washed some muddy jeans that had gravel and now it smells like burnt ,is there a reset or is it fried
If you smell something burned turn it off and unplug it, call an electrician. Probably got debris stuck in the impeller and it got stuck and overloaded the motor. These small motors don't usually have overload protection so you're probably in for a new pump
You don't need to vent it?
Not this one. It's not ideal though, this is just for simplicity I would vent it if I did it again and used a basin pump with a few gallon pumpout instead of this pump model.
Where can in get that online pump
I highly recommend the pump shown in this video, just published, rather than original I used. There is a link to it that video description as well. ruclips.net/video/wsBWhM0QDG8/видео.html
Great video. What size pvc is that?
It should be 1 1/2”
What’s the make and model of the pump
Tru professional
Thank you!
Thanks for the video. If I go with the "better" pump with holding tank, do I still need the ball valve? Since the pump won't be throttling? Two other questions:
1. where is the P-trap? do I need one?
2. do you think the better pump can be plugged into the same outlet as a washing machine? probably high amp draw.
Mat,
No on the ball valve but check valve is still a good idea. P-trap on this setup isn't needed, there is a column of water and a loop back up which creates a ptrap in the same fashion. On #2 not sure, depends on the electrical load of the washer. Neither of these pumps are that high of a load. You can look up full load on both in their spec sheets or manuals and see if it exceeds the limits of your 15a or 20a circuit.
@@briancnc Thanks Brian!
i just got my Everbilt 1/3 HP Utility Sink Pump. My question is. Why does it have two power cords when my old one only had one ? Thx for the tip about the gate valve, i may have to get a new one.
They plug into each other, one is a full switch so when the stack fills up it closes and allows the power to the pump. For some reason they do.
@@briancnc Hey i just got back from Lowes looking for a coupler to fit this but couldnt find any. Do they even make one to fit both of these ? imgur.com/cW1W7zP
@@Sjrick not sure if you're trying to put the ball valve there but it goes on the output of the pump not the input. All fittings are standard size, those would be male threaded and you can get couplings that have another side for 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 pipe to glue on.
Can you drain into a sump pump?
Mechanically yes, but check your local building codes. I will be posting a new video soon where I swap this unit with a sump pump unit, I really wasn't happy with the inline unit in the long run (although simpler and cheaper at the time).
Why not use SharkBite? If there is water in the pipe it’s a pain to sweat the pipes.
Sharkbites are fine in a pinch but I prefer sweating or propress when you can.
Great video - were you safe having your check valve at that height? It looks higher than the sink. My concern is when I do mine that the water before the check valve would run back down to the pump after it had finished cycling, and cause me issues. Seems that isn't happening with your installation. Is there enough room in the pump for that extra water?
Im actually having that issue now, im going to add a check valve directly after the pump
@@TroubleBrewing Yep - I did mine last year and I kept my valve low. The only issue I've run in to so far is that if you have something big go through, like an almost-gone bar of soap, it can sometimes prop the valve slightly open. Then comes the maddening periodic run of the pump as water seeps back from the check valve. Solution was to open the choke valve upstream fully and flush with hot water until it was gone. Other than that, it's a simple system.
Awesome video and you discussed the exact issue that I was looking for: the quality of the check valve. I too have read the reviews of this pump kit and had the same concern about the check valve slowly leaking. I have an existing basin pump setup for my utility tub and have been thinking about replacing it with one of these under-sink pumps to get rid of the basin. However, I have only about four vertical feet between where this pump would discharge and where it connects into my main sewer line. In other words, the check valve may not have enough pressure on top of it to keep from dripping. How much pipe do you have above the check valve where it goes into the horizontal drain pipe? And you haven't had any problems with the Everbuilt check valve leaking? I saw this same valve at Home Depot this week. (My current basin pump system does have a check valve that seems to work fine but if I am replacing it I'd like to update everything while I'm at it.)
I replaced the valve but it still leaks. I will post a new video in the future for the fix, aka a slightly more expensive pump unit with a holding tank that essentially makes this a non-issue. The manual asks for 6' of head pressure which is almost impossible in a 1960's basement. I leave the pump unplugged when I'm not using it to avoid it short cycling constantly but I can't recommend this pump anymore. The rest of the video is still valid and shows how to setup the rest of the system but with the other pump you need to tie in a vent or add a studor vent.
@@briancnc Thanks for the response. With the basin pump, you can't use a studor vent, because it won't let air out of the basin when the water goes in. Air admittance valves are one-way only. With the basin pump, air has to flow both ways in order to work.
How come no PTrap before or directly after the union? I know you have 1 up top
No need for one in this particular application.
Would this setup pass code if you’re trying to sell a home with this pump style utility sink?
I am needing to relocate washer about 15’ from it’s current location and I’m on the fence of paying big bucks to have concrete ripped up and have new drain put in to main line or go this route
Definitely do not put an inline pump on something such as a washing machine, it will short cycle the pump and probably kill it in short order. Can't imagine a sump pump with a catch basin that can hold up to a few gallons (much better than the one I used) wouldn't pass code. Code is only going to say you have to install it to code but not that you can't use a lifting pump to get it to the elevation you need to in order to discharge it. Your local code would be best to check though, and best to consult a local plumber if only just to pick his brain.
Why doesn't anyone put the piping within their walls in the basement? Too cold? I hate seeing all this piping.
Concrete foundation
@@briancnc I ment if you have a framed exterior wall in the basement that is inside from the foundation. I have drywall up on the exterior walls but the previous owner still kept the plumbing exposed. Any issue with routing the piping within the framed wall?
@SurfTheStreets01 I mean it's all about cost. If oyur basement is nicely finished I would definitely have cut open a stud bay and patched the drywall to clean that up. Just need to make sure it's well insulated if it's an exterior wall. Depending on your location.
Why would you use a 2 handle valve?
The valve only has one handle for the ball, not sure what you're getting at?
@@briancnc I meant the faucet sorry
@@davidasdasd4666 Oh that makes sense. The two handles are for hot cold. It's a cheapo setup, the faucets with mixing valves are more expensive. If I had to do it again I would not have purchased this faucet kit, it's very cheap and all plastic.
Good video took a lot of effort to make. But there's an inherent flaw in this. The pump impeller is so incrediy volurnable this way. ANYTHING finding its way down the drain will contact the impeller. A drain strainer inside the sink won't due either. Because that will get full of lint or other debris while the sink is full. When you go to remove it the debris will rush down the drain and into the impeller. Ours died because of this issue. The impeller kept getting jammed and I would use a long screwdriver to free the impeller jam. A bunch of bologna thus risking a pump motor fire. Its unsafe. With children little lego pieces, little rocks, and a million other things whatever, get in there.
Agreed, this pump had a lot of drawbacks, I just put a video out on a pump I switched to (vented type). Now that a drain screen won't fuss with the cycle of the in-line pump now that it's all gravity fed the strainer will work just fine.
ruclips.net/video/wsBWhM0QDG8/видео.html
I have a laundry tub that has a pump that keeps cycling. I dont have a ball valve that you turn to adjust. My piping lays horizontal. Is there a way i can put one in between them or does it have to be placed higher ?
Is the pump in line like the one I have shown in this video? If it is you can't install an in line pump without a check valve and ball valve, especially if the pump output doesn't match the sink (Most are at least double). The traditional flapper style check valves won't work horizontally though. They make a seal with the weight of the water up against them.
@@briancnc No i just have a straight run from the pump to the waste line. NO ball or gate valves
@@Sjrick Should have a ball valve to modulate the output of the motor. Your sink could be putting out say 5-10 gal/minute while your pump does 20+, so it's going to short cycle your motor constantly as the pump throws volumes of water away from it and slowly backing up. I honestly wouldn't use an in-line pump again after installing this and the tub style that has a holding tank. The holding tank type sump pumps are a lot better because they only cycle once you fill them up as apposed to listening to this loud pump constantly as you're using the sink.
@@briancnc so a ball valve alone wont do anything ? Even if i install it on the tall pipe going up ?
@@Sjrick send me some photos via message on here so I can see or email me through my website briancnc.com
Does this have a air vent as part of drain?
No need for a vent with this setup, has a p trap and the stack it drops into is vented already.
pex!
Gay plumber look at those 1/2 inch copper joins he tried to make a chrome😂 look when he primed the PVC pipe he try to make a purple or what not impressed
Thanks for watching! Please feel free to post your work as well since you're an expert.
Roberto you should probably proof read your message before posting... Lmao
Jeremy Protzman why don’t you try to sticking your head up your ass.?see if it fits.Can you read the.?😆
@@robertocruz5707 thanks for proving my point! 👍😉
Thanks for the demonstration of competency. I had all of the moving parts figured out but watching you actually get it done is a huge, huge confidence booster. I guess that I should post SSIS videos!
10:05, will reducing the flow with the check valve hamper the volume of water you can discharge at one time? In other words, take a sump pump for instance, it discharges all the water at once with no restriction in water flow
This shouldn't, it will only max out at the discharge capacity of the pump minus any losses, should be minimal with a full swing check. However check out my newer video where I replaced this with a much better pump, this original video the pump become very problematic.
Thanks @@briancnc
You're supposed to leave the soldered joint alone while letting it cool down. Otherwise, you can end up creating small cracks and end up with leaks later.
Not sure what you mean by leaving it alone, what was I doing? No leaks months later. Thanks.
@@briancnc, 4:40 - no plumbers do that. Once the solder melts and fills the pipe, they just let it cool - they don't clean it like you do as the solder is still hot and can move the joint. If you want solder to look "clean", use only the necessary amount of solder and begin soldering from a location that's not visible (the back) and capillary action will draw the solder to the front.
@@arcadion448 I live for detailed explanations such as this. Thank you
Yes it is tempting to wipe it but a wet rag can also cold shock and crack the joint, along with the risks of moving a still soft joint. If you are very delicate you probably will get away with it but use restraint.
5:06, Just a note: soldering over plastic can be a hazard due to the burning hot solder if it comes in contact with the plastic, as it can burn a hole into or right through the plastic surface, so be careful & conscious as well
Yeah, I asked a plumber once why he didn't include a union. He just picked up his hack saw and said, "Union."
Unions and cleanouts, if you own the place or have to work on it regularly you will thank yourself later! Water systems are no different, every time you have a chance to add a ball shutoff valve, or better yet swap a gate valve with one, do it! Money well spent.
I know my comments are years after this was posted. Who solders with rubber gloves and who cuts pvc pipe with a skil saw. He presents himself as an expert. Please
Never said I was an expert once, and you watched the video so ...
Very helpful, thank you.
I did not know about cavitation effects! Thanks!
what do you use to burr out or sand the pvc to make clean joints? i think that's where i went wrong and have leaks
Sandpaper. And clean it off after sanding.
I am just going to add the check valve and ball valve. amazingly my set up seems to have neither. May eventually replace everything minus the water lines in yer video. Very informative, part im doing seems like it will be very easy. One question, you linked the quality check valve, im assuming any ball valve is pretty much going to be good enough since its a simple device?
could you install the utlity sink in the garge too let know plz
sure, why not. If you can plumb in water pipes and drain it somewhere you can put it anywhere.
Are the supply lines 3/8" or 1/2"?
Hi Gary, 1/2" copper and sink lines were probably 3/8 braided stainless steel.
Great explanation thanks !
What is that pump called?
I highly recommend the pump shown in this video, just published, rather than original I used. There is a link to it that video description as well. ruclips.net/video/wsBWhM0QDG8/видео.html
Great video, I am about to do the same project but will be putting the supply and drain lines in a wall so I can cover them with dry wall for a more finished look.
Just make sure you leave an access door for the shutoffs and ball valve. I honestly would not bury plumbing for an in-line pump setup like this and just get one with a holding tank (slightly more expensive). If you do you can ditch the check and ball valves and put regular quarter turn shutoffs as I did just like with a toilet or sink.
How did you vent this sink?
isn't the sewer out vented anyways for the house?
By far the best plumbing install video on RUclips! Thank you!