The original car had ball diffs and no slipper so the diffs would protect the driveline. Now it has gear diffs and a slipper so the slipper protects the driveline. On carpet make sure the slipper is slipping a little. Its the only thing keeping the driveline from breaking on such a high grip surface.
Great reports Gavin. It’s a good mixture of theoretical and practical issues. Based on it i bought also the Super Dogfighter - i am sure, i will enjoy it - thank you!
Turned out well didnt it ;) I took mine racing last week and really enjoyed it although we have control tyres at our club and currently use Schumacher honeycomb tyres. Didnt suffer from any grip roll after lowering it and moving the front shock to the outside hole on the tower. Steering was ok as well had plenty, tyres played there part with that. Look forward to more
I can attest that spraying the liquid mask(Bitty) is SOOOO much better. I could never go back to Tamiya and edging tape. I picked up a super cheap hvlp gun that's very small. I think it was $15 and I use it with my larger compressor. It's perfect for doing a few bodies at once.
Back in the day, we raced in carpet with foam tires. I ran rc10 shocks, the top brace and the yz10 protech shell. Common wear was the front axles with so much grip. Also ran a strip of thin plastic looped on front and back of top front shock bolt to stop them digging in and snapping front shock tower and bulkhead. On carpet, best setup was was the one way roller bearing on the center shaft so it turned sharp. Full 4wd for outdoors
I got back into the hobby a couple of years back and also found, that for me, the tyre combo/compound/model was about 90% of how well the car drove. Suspension setup etc would make micro adjustments but tyres would have wild effects on how much I enjoyed (or not!) driving. I was also finding that tyres, even indoors where on carpet grip tends to be higher, only really lasted for 2 or 3 five minute races then went off a cliff. Not just the expense but the hassle and time of gluing/ungluing tyres every weekend was one of the factors that led to me giving up again. Also, and it is hard to admit, but at my age and commitment, the current cars are far too fast, in acceleration and grip for me (can't believe I'm saying that!). What has been peaking my interest is the "classic" series I have been watching with 80s and 90s cars, the ones I grew up lusting after in Beatties and the magazines. A Top Force Evo or Lazer ZX in a class with one set of control tyres permitted per weekend and stock (or equivalent) motor limit.... maybe...
i prefer it when box art is not used. i love to see what people come up with when they have their own idea... metallic green is also my favorite because when i was around 8, my older cousin had a metallic green camaro he called "hopper" and that was always my favorite car... anyhoo, i usually end up painting my cars metallic green if i don't have something in mind.
Great video Gavin, thank you! Mine should be here today, I raced this car in UK many moons ago and now live in California, just down the street from Amain.
Nice paintjob👍 I'm use there will be upgrade parts soon. A brace for the steering would be nice and simple. Yokomo made this for the YZ-10 in those days.
I have desert dog formula printed on my wheels , I started with a wltoys 1/12 brushless buggy, it goes well after greasing the diffs all alloy upgrades and a 5600kv motor,but these kits is my next thing to get they're so cool
As far as steering goes, a lot of us whom raced these in period changed the steering bell cranks to A&L ball bearing setups. Much better response. It does mean changing the steering servo position though. Only one of my five vintage Yokomo YZ10/870C still use the factory setup. My rere is still new in the box.
yellow fusion 2 are going to be very aggressive. ideally the fusion 1 is the better choice. I think you would find the blue compound more forgiving and easier to drive.
Looked great 👍 tyres are a tricky one ! Sounds like 4wd cut staggers might be the way forward Glad it didn't break I've seen 2 break on track already and like you heard of 2 more on the iconic page 😢 top deck or better chassis stiffener seems a must
No need to replace stock shocks for that track, just experiment with oil and springs. Also, if you really must upgrade, why associated? Get modern yokomo shocks and stick to the brand. Awesome paint job. Great video. Thanks
I run cactus yellow rear and fusion 1 fronts with the sidewall and first row of ridges glued,this is on an original car tho not a re re so can't say hie the gear diffs will alter this if at all.
Nice to see the driveshafts held up, im running mine tomo so hopefully i dont brake anything 🤞 if you find the fusions to edgy you can glue the sidewall, this takes away some of the edgyness. Had to do it to my worlds optima as it was so aggressive 👍
Those skinny front tyres look a smaller diameter than the rear, if they are that's what was causing belt resonance. Front and rear wheels turning at different speed.
It did it with all the tyres but yes, you are right about the fronts turning a little faster being not good for the driveline. Not much in it but some.
That servosaver needs upgrading and as a previous writer said it would benfit with a oneway to turn sharper. I think the original car had that in the center 😊😊
Hallo, I have wondered a little about the comment about the shocks being too small of volume for todays vintage racing in your opinion…🤔😉 And that You will replace them with modern big bore AE shocks… When I look back what extremes the shocks at old times racing had to work and handle, I personally see not too much of the point that they will be overchallenged by the high traction, mostly smooth astro and carpet tracks we are racing on nowadays most times… Of course, there are new challenges for the shocks in these modern conditions, but in my feeling nothing that can not be managed with the proper setup…oil, pistons, springs, roll-bars, shock and suspension geometry… I am anyway, generally feeling quite sensible about all the modifications being done to our vintage buggies for racing them on nowadays tracks. Somehow these conditions are not the real natural living environment for those “old” Off-Roaders… But this is just my opinion and nothing more…so please, nobody should feel offended… And I think there are vintage races, at which big bore shocks are not allowed… 🧐😉 Keep on having a great RC FUN time…!!! 🍀 Thorsten 🌞 BUDGET RC RACER Division Fun Team Germany 🍻 😉😂😊… PS: Have a look at this, If you are interested to see how especially shocks have been stress to the MAX in the past… ruclips.net/video/E17vnBGQ6SA/видео.htmlsi=u4fxOO-EApibElZT
That car is a complete catastrophe and Not a Stunner!!!! Nothing was shared with the original, shocks are like TC in terms of length... To say that this is a stunner is a joke
The original car had ball diffs and no slipper so the diffs would protect the driveline. Now it has gear diffs and a slipper so the slipper protects the driveline. On carpet make sure the slipper is slipping a little. Its the only thing keeping the driveline from breaking on such a high grip surface.
Great reports Gavin. It’s a good mixture of theoretical and practical issues. Based on it i bought also the Super Dogfighter - i am sure, i will enjoy it - thank you!
I just fitted some new rear shocks to it. I’m trying to find some fronts to match and it will be back on the show for more track testing
Turned out well didnt it ;) I took mine racing last week and really enjoyed it although we have control tyres at our club and currently use Schumacher honeycomb tyres. Didnt suffer from any grip roll after lowering it and moving the front shock to the outside hole on the tower. Steering was ok as well had plenty, tyres played there part with that. Look forward to more
I can attest that spraying the liquid mask(Bitty) is SOOOO much better. I could never go back to Tamiya and edging tape. I picked up a super cheap hvlp gun that's very small. I think it was $15 and I use it with my larger compressor. It's perfect for doing a few bodies at once.
I saw the decal you got from MCI? Sorry I’m from USA, do you have a link from the store?
Hi, just google MCI Racing and you will find it 👍🏻👍🏻
Back in the day, we raced in carpet with foam tires. I ran rc10 shocks, the top brace and the yz10 protech shell. Common wear was the front axles with so much grip. Also ran a strip of thin plastic looped on front and back of top front shock bolt to stop them digging in and snapping front shock tower and bulkhead.
On carpet, best setup was was the one way roller bearing on the center shaft so it turned sharp. Full 4wd for outdoors
I got back into the hobby a couple of years back and also found, that for me, the tyre combo/compound/model was about 90% of how well the car drove. Suspension setup etc would make micro adjustments but tyres would have wild effects on how much I enjoyed (or not!) driving.
I was also finding that tyres, even indoors where on carpet grip tends to be higher, only really lasted for 2 or 3 five minute races then went off a cliff. Not just the expense but the hassle and time of gluing/ungluing tyres every weekend was one of the factors that led to me giving up again.
Also, and it is hard to admit, but at my age and commitment, the current cars are far too fast, in acceleration and grip for me (can't believe I'm saying that!).
What has been peaking my interest is the "classic" series I have been watching with 80s and 90s cars, the ones I grew up lusting after in Beatties and the magazines. A Top Force Evo or Lazer ZX in a class with one set of control tyres permitted per weekend and stock (or equivalent) motor limit.... maybe...
I love these videos it's kind of a shame that you can't run in dirt where it was really designed to run
That looks stunning.
i prefer it when box art is not used. i love to see what people come up with when they have their own idea... metallic green is also my favorite because when i was around 8, my older cousin had a metallic green camaro he called "hopper" and that was always my favorite car... anyhoo, i usually end up painting my cars metallic green if i don't have something in mind.
Back in the 80s this thing broke every 2 seconds. Seems perfect :)
Awesome body 😊 The diffence between the tyres was incredible 😮
That is 🥰 absolutely stunning
It looks like fast just stood still
Great video Gavin, thank you! Mine should be here today, I raced this car in UK many moons ago and now live in California, just down the street from Amain.
Please update us if you find a steering upgrade and an upper deck stiffener upgrage.
Video coming soon with some upgrades
How nice has that turned out ❤. Its making me want to come out of a 29 year retirement
Yep. That looks gorgeous. Plus, I've noticed your subscribers total is starting to tick upwards faster and faster....keep up the great work Gav.
I love race liveries. your Green is very bespoke 👌
Lovely color, digging the gold rear spoiler. I should get my buggy this coming Monday!
Great paint job! Looks really nice
Nice paintjob👍 I'm use there will be upgrade parts soon. A brace for the steering would be nice and simple. Yokomo made this for the YZ-10 in those days.
I have desert dog formula printed on my wheels , I started with a wltoys 1/12 brushless buggy, it goes well after greasing the diffs all alloy upgrades and a 5600kv motor,but these kits is my next thing to get they're so cool
The internal conflict about driving this made me laugh. She is stunning. Thanks for finding me the link. And +50 points for driving her
As far as steering goes, a lot of us whom raced these in period changed the steering bell cranks to A&L ball bearing setups. Much better response. It does mean changing the steering servo position though. Only one of my five vintage Yokomo YZ10/870C still use the factory setup. My rere is still new in the box.
Where can these parts be bought?
Fantastic video Gavin, realy cool👍👍
yellow fusion 2 are going to be very aggressive. ideally the fusion 1 is the better choice. I think you would find the blue compound more forgiving and easier to drive.
Only issue I had with my original car was the front bulkhead breaking, other than that it was an absolute beast. Wish I still had it 😢😢.
Gav, where did you get the sticker kit?
MCI :)
Looked great 👍 tyres are a tricky one ! Sounds like 4wd cut staggers might be the way forward
Glad it didn't break I've seen 2 break on track already and like you heard of 2 more on the iconic page 😢 top deck or better chassis stiffener seems a must
Great video, my friend. Keep it up. ❤
Looks awesome Gavin nice job dude 😊😊 Pete
No need to replace stock shocks for that track, just experiment with oil and springs. Also, if you really must upgrade, why associated? Get modern yokomo shocks and stick to the brand. Awesome paint job. Great video. Thanks
Looks fantastic Gav👌👌
Your paint job looks cool I really like it I want a kit to do this also I'm looking at a tamiya I want something competitive though idk what to get
I run cactus yellow rear and fusion 1 fronts with the sidewall and first row of ridges glued,this is on an original car tho not a re re so can't say hie the gear diffs will alter this if at all.
Did you remember to change the screw on the spine to countersink? that may be the belt noise issue.
Thanks, I will check
Super tough🎉👍
Gavin, can you share the video with the electrics? I am new hobby again and it's confusing knowing what brushless setup to use
ruclips.net/video/muWOLtOsZUw/видео.htmlsi=2_utmO2EGTC6q7By
is the yokomo superfigher made in Japan?
I don't think so. I guess designed in Japan but manufactured in the Philippines. It should say on the box
Nice to see the driveshafts held up, im running mine tomo so hopefully i dont brake anything 🤞 if you find the fusions to edgy you can glue the sidewall, this takes away some of the edgyness. Had to do it to my worlds optima as it was so aggressive 👍
Those skinny front tyres look a smaller diameter than the rear, if they are that's what was causing belt resonance. Front and rear wheels turning at different speed.
It did it with all the tyres but yes, you are right about the fronts turning a little faster being not good for the driveline. Not much in it but some.
@@RCKickschannel difference will affect handling it will make the car twitchy as the diffs try to catch up with eachother.
Is the Masami stickers included in the kit? If not, where did you find them? Br
Such i lovely looking kit, but that price. Definitely a little too much for me, guess ill stick the the old rc10 b3
B3 is an epic racer
That servosaver needs upgrading and as a previous writer said it would benfit with a oneway to turn sharper. I think the original car had that in the center 😊😊
Hallo,
I have wondered a little about the comment about the shocks being too small of volume for todays vintage racing in your opinion…🤔😉
And that You will replace them with modern big bore AE shocks…
When I look back what extremes the shocks at old times racing had to work and handle, I personally see not too much of the point that they will be overchallenged by the high traction, mostly smooth astro and carpet tracks we are racing on nowadays most times…
Of course, there are new challenges for the shocks in these modern conditions, but in my feeling nothing that can not be managed with the proper setup…oil, pistons, springs, roll-bars, shock and suspension geometry…
I am anyway, generally feeling quite sensible about all the modifications being done to our vintage buggies for racing them on nowadays tracks.
Somehow these conditions are not the real natural living environment for those “old” Off-Roaders…
But this is just my opinion and nothing more…so please, nobody should feel offended…
And I think there are vintage races, at which big bore shocks are not allowed… 🧐😉
Keep on having a great RC FUN time…!!! 🍀
Thorsten 🌞
BUDGET RC RACER
Division Fun Team Germany 🍻 😉😂😊…
PS:
Have a look at this, If you are interested to see how especially shocks have been stress to the MAX in the past…
ruclips.net/video/E17vnBGQ6SA/видео.htmlsi=u4fxOO-EApibElZT
Fusion 2s were mounted the wrong way on the wheel 2 rows go outside
where can we buy the Masami decals?
Where did you get the decals from
MCI
Is it the same as the associated yz10 rerelease? Seems 2 of the same cars
Yep just a different body and box
Its not designed for powerful motors. Recommended motor turns are listed in the beginning of the manual.
Yep, I covered this in the chassis build video.
500 on a car that then needs another 200 to 300 to make it drivable sounds like a bargin to me
ko propooooooo hehe
mini z put me down the KO road myself :)
Dust mite?!?!?!
Also green... not a fan of the big white stickers. But great looking buggy and nothing like the box art, which looks absolutely horrendous.
Sexy car!
Thanks Jee....
Hare Krishna
BLACK wheels do NEVER work in RC Racing...😂😂😉😉🌞🌞
That car is a complete catastrophe and Not a Stunner!!!! Nothing was shared with the original, shocks are like TC in terms of length...
To say that this is a stunner is a joke
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