Thank You so much, that helped a lot to understand few things. I am a total beginner at this. I've just bought my first trumpet by J.Michael TR-300S and after giving it a proper cleaning and oiling with LaTromba T2 I will check compression according to Your instructions.
Thank You so much, my son is new at playing the trumpet, and during the summer some how we got valves out of line... I sure appreciate you information and it is done... Your the best
Unfortunately that isn’t reliable. The first issues is that it is highly dependent on the slide itself fitting tightly. If the slide fit is worn you won’t get a good pop. Inversely,, even horns that have slide pop, like the one in the video, can still have valves that are very leaky.
Mark Metzler of Metzler Brass has taken over most of the work Anderson Plating was doing. Osmun Music does great work, Rich Ita, Dr. Valve, all of those would be solid choices!
I Have the BACH 50 Anniversary Model 37. Paid a Hefty Price for it back in summer of 2018. Didnt really use much and did the proper break in. Im a machinist myself..I LOVE Bach Instruments but I have to say I regret spending what spent on this Horn. The Quality is just NOT there anymore. My first valve has a pretty bad leak very good hsss Number 2 is on its way out also. This horn was barely used at all. Everything else sound whatnot is Amazing the timbre is crazy I use it for lead. But that is the only disappointment is the sticky leaking valves after very little use.
A couple questions would be how closely you followed the valve cleaning regimen during initial break-in. I’ve had valves that were initially sticky from many manufacturers including Bach, Yamaha, Sonare, B&S, and more. Most of the time it’s because of very TIGHT valve tolerances and valves breaking in. That requires frequent swabbing and cleaning out of the valve casings. I know with Bach horns there are instructions on this procedure that come in the case. The valves should also be oiled VERY frequently during break-in. If this isn’t done properly it can and will cause your valves to wear very quickly because you are letting pieces of metal shavings from the break-in create issues. This is true of cars engines, lawn tractors, and everything else that has metal parts rubbing against each other. If you don’t do your initial oil changes much more frequently you and will destroy your engine. That being said if you did follow this procedure correctly I would contact the dealer you purchased from and file a warranty claim. They are usually pretty good about that sort of thing!
@@joshwagner7193 Hey Josh Thanks for the reply.. Yea Im a Machinist and very familiar with honing the works Ive used honing machines ect. honed motorcycle cylinders and car engine blocks and turbo bearing sleeves . But yes I really took care a paid very good attention using LOTS of oil when breaking it in and keeping it super clean washing the residue away what not. Ill say that upon inspecting the inside casing it wasn't lapped very well or perhaps reamed before lapping. I can see with the eye protrusions in the case valve plumbing where its soldered which will cause severe piston wear because the actual piping is rubbing on the piston. I hope you can understand. Looking into the casing cylinder wall.
Another words The problem wasnt the pistons it was poor honing job on the casing. I believe they might of just drilled the cylinders after soldering the piping into it to cut the extra piping inside and clean DIDN'T ream it and went straight to hone.
Man... that is rough! Having that much free air coming through is a little surprising even with a very old horn. I've played a number of instruments that are over 100 years old and while leaked never leaked THAT bad. Heavier oils can help like Hetman 3 or 5 Star Red Zone. I just had the valves rebuilt on one of my favorite trumpets. If I didn't REALLY like it and it wasn't REALLY rare I would have scrapped it. The rebuild was $600 or $200 per valve. Now that it's back I am REALLY happy with how much better it plays and how great the valves feel.
@@joshwagner7193 wow, well what I have was an old estate sale find, bought for about $50 dollars! Thank you for those suggestions for oils! I’m new to trumpet, I hadn’t heard of those. I’ll have to do more research on my trumpet to see if a rebuild is worth it, I appreciate your sharing of your experience with a rebuild!
You have to pull the slide for the valve you are testing, depress the valve you are testing and blow. Air will come out of one or the other branch of the slide tubing. Block that one and blow with the valve depressed.
I did this as a quick video to help someone out but it has obviously gotten some attention. Not everything needs to be TV quality to be useful. Be well.
Thank You so much, that helped a lot to understand few things. I am a total beginner at this. I've just bought my first trumpet by J.Michael TR-300S and after giving it a proper cleaning and oiling with LaTromba T2 I will check compression according to Your instructions.
Great video! Very Insightful for a beginner.. thank You!
Thank You so much, my son is new at playing the trumpet, and during the summer some how we got valves out of line... I sure appreciate you information and it is done... Your the best
Interesting
Can you check compression by pulling out each slide to check for a popping sound?
Unfortunately that isn’t reliable. The first issues is that it is highly dependent on the slide itself fitting tightly. If the slide fit is worn you won’t get a good pop. Inversely,, even horns that have slide pop, like the one in the video, can still have valves that are very leaky.
Who would you use for a replating and who for a valve job.
Mark Metzler of Metzler Brass has taken over most of the work Anderson Plating was doing. Osmun Music does great work, Rich Ita, Dr. Valve, all of those would be solid choices!
Thank you.
I Have the BACH 50 Anniversary Model 37. Paid a Hefty Price for it back in summer of 2018. Didnt really use much and did the proper break in. Im a machinist myself..I LOVE Bach Instruments but I have to say I regret spending what spent on this Horn. The Quality is just NOT there anymore. My first valve has a pretty bad leak very good hsss Number 2 is on its way out also. This horn was barely used at all. Everything else sound whatnot is Amazing the timbre is crazy I use it for lead. But that is the only disappointment is the sticky leaking valves after very little use.
A couple questions would be how closely you followed the valve cleaning regimen during initial break-in. I’ve had valves that were initially sticky from many manufacturers including Bach, Yamaha, Sonare, B&S, and more. Most of the time it’s because of very TIGHT valve tolerances and valves breaking in. That requires frequent swabbing and cleaning out of the valve casings. I know with Bach horns there are instructions on this procedure that come in the case. The valves should also be oiled VERY frequently during break-in. If this isn’t done properly it can and will cause your valves to wear very quickly because you are letting pieces of metal shavings from the break-in create issues. This is true of cars engines, lawn tractors, and everything else that has metal parts rubbing against each other. If you don’t do your initial oil changes much more frequently you and will destroy your engine.
That being said if you did follow this procedure correctly I would contact the dealer you purchased from and file a warranty claim. They are usually pretty good about that sort of thing!
@@joshwagner7193 Hey Josh Thanks for the reply.. Yea Im a Machinist and very familiar with honing the works Ive used honing machines ect. honed motorcycle cylinders and car engine blocks and turbo bearing sleeves . But yes I really took care a paid very good attention using LOTS of oil when breaking it in and keeping it super clean washing the residue away what not. Ill say that upon inspecting the inside casing it wasn't lapped very well or perhaps reamed before lapping. I can see with the eye protrusions in the case valve plumbing where its soldered which will cause severe piston wear because the actual piping is rubbing on the piston. I hope you can understand. Looking into the casing cylinder wall.
Another words The problem wasnt the pistons it was poor honing job on the casing. I believe they might of just drilled the cylinders after soldering the piping into it to cut the extra piping inside and clean DIDN'T ream it and went straight to hone.
@@SIMEON2003 Definitely a warranty issue I would say! Again, contact your dealer!
I did not know that, I just bought a horn and my compression test is like blowing through a straw
Man... that is rough! Having that much free air coming through is a little surprising even with a very old horn. I've played a number of instruments that are over 100 years old and while leaked never leaked THAT bad. Heavier oils can help like Hetman 3 or 5 Star Red Zone.
I just had the valves rebuilt on one of my favorite trumpets. If I didn't REALLY like it and it wasn't REALLY rare I would have scrapped it. The rebuild was $600 or $200 per valve. Now that it's back I am REALLY happy with how much better it plays and how great the valves feel.
@@joshwagner7193 wow, well what I have was an old estate sale find, bought for about $50 dollars! Thank you for those suggestions for oils! I’m new to trumpet, I hadn’t heard of those.
I’ll have to do more research on my trumpet to see if a rebuild is worth it, I appreciate your sharing of your experience with a rebuild!
Mine just blows right out the bell. Maybe my pistons are in wrong?
You have to pull the slide for the valve you are testing, depress the valve you are testing and blow. Air will come out of one or the other branch of the slide tubing. Block that one and blow with the valve depressed.
very good info but your audio is terrible.
I did this as a quick video to help someone out but it has obviously gotten some attention. Not everything needs to be TV quality to be useful. Be well.