Does Valve Compression Matter?

On houghtonhorns.com we've recently started listing valve compression ratings on our pre-owned instruments. However, what do these number mean and should you care? Can you test the compression on an instrument without fancy equipment? Tune into this livestream with Dr. Derek J. Wright to find out the answers to these questions and more!

[@NigelRamses]

Over my phone's speakers, I personally felt that H serial one sounded best. I've been playing an 8D for 17 years that I bought for $600 from a repair - shall we say - enthusiast. It was built in 1976, so an Abilene built one, if I'm not mistaken; the one nobody seems to want. I've learned much of what I know on this old thing, and it will always be of great sentimental value. However, I do think it's probably time to upgrade, and this time probably not to another Kruspe wrap. So glad to have found your videos.

[@beautgrainger147]

Valves can be rebuilt, I gather an 8D is a respectable model (have played some trumpet myself)

[@spamaccount1513]

I was always bad about oiling my horn until i found out how expensive it is to rebuild valves

[@theBoomerDoomer]

An additional benefit of regularly oiling of your horn is that it helps inhibit corrosion. As well as oiling your valves, blowing rotor oil through the horn (putting a few drops in the leadpipe) after doing your rotors will help keep corrosion to a minimum... it may not prevent it entirely, but it definitely helps... regular deep cleaning by a trusted professional also helps!

[@mr.random4681]

Pretty darn useful info. Thanks

[@matthewroache8293]

Great video, thanks! I'm considering a Finke for my next horn, but the composite rotors give me concern in this regard. Are they subject to similar wear and loss of compression as brass? If so, do you have data on how long they will typically last? I assume that if they do wear out, you're just looking at having to replace them.

[@georgesabol9116]

Hi Matthew. I play a Finke Americus which I bought new in 2013. I am a serious amateur and put a fair number of hours in the horn (but obviously not what a problem would do). I just had the horn serviced and compression checked at Osmun and it’s still in excellent condition. Also, when it becomes necessary, replacing the composite rotors is less expensive than plating brass rotors.

[@georgesabol9116]

Sorry for the typos.

[@matthewroache8293]

@@georgesabol9116 Helpful info, thanks!

[@lukasboyer3099]

i have a 41 year old hans hoyer custom horn that we just got a couple of weeks ago and it plays great and has a rich tone to it but i have noticed it accumulates a lot of water very quickly when playing it and during warm up the b flat side on some of the lower notes are a little muffled and splotchy sounding do you think it could have a leaking valve or valves on it

[@monicalazzari2626]

Vorrei una tua opinione sul corno yamaha 871 DUL per come è costruito e per la sua centratura e intonazione del suono

[@nicholasricha1518]

When are y’all posting TMEA videos?

[@zachbagel]

Thats what im sayin

[@HoughtonHorns]

Early-Mid September

[@zachbagel]

@@HoughtonHorns yesssir

[@nicholasricha1518]

@@HoughtonHorns the answer everyone was waiting for

[@nicholasricha1518]

Thanks!

[@AmelianaTSIIX]

I'd be curious as to a 'lacquered, unlacquered debate...can of worms I know lol

[@codyle241]

What do you prefer ? Just curious…

[@davemiller7633]

@@codyle241 unlacquered

[@Quickness_Fitness]

Vast majority of pros go unlacquered. It's more free sounding and resonant.