I got a 350 that turned out to be a 30 over 355 for free and after a basic rebuild with just bearings gaskets and rings...stock iron heads ported and polished and Edelbrock intake and carb and longtube headers I made 378.4 horsepower and only spent 150 for the parts to rebuild it and my time lol that’s a real budget build
1/4 of that for my truck but i got my truck for a steal its a 1975 ford f250 highboy 360 4speed banged up but not rusty at all for a 44 year old vermont truck
PowerNation ... I have watched the contents of this playlist so many times, and every time I end up learning something new. Thank you so much for sharing these videos with us! I have a 1980's vehicle (from my father) that I someday hope to properly restore, and thanks to the valuable information you've shared with me about SBC engines I have a very good idea how to accomplish this without rendering myself bankrupt. Thank you, thank you, thank you PowerNation ... I'm forever indebted to you!
This channel shows EXACTLY how much information I'm looking for, just as someone curious about how making an engine works. Thanks for the quality videos.
a few episodes ago i remember reading comments that complained about the seemingly rediculous amount of money being put into the builds, and how a normal joe could never afford a build like that. good job on changing it up, trying to bring what is wanted to the table. aswell as improving the tech tip to showing another way to tune a carb. at least they are trying.
Building a engine gives you room for ajusting everything for future upgrades or especific use, and more chevy performance engines have a lot of "loose power and weakneses a built engine doesnt have
Pound feet. Lol ... In the old days it’s was called foot pounds. 👍 us good old boys, had to use a tree to pull an engine out. Didn’t have a shop to work in. An all the high Tech tools and gauges . I m glad to see improvements overall. Great video 😎
yup its always written pounds per foot and spoken foot pounds for me LoL :o) makes sense. some people do not realize that it is swapped around in writing because of the rules of english and scientific language influencing the direct meaning and not to be confused with other meanings from similar writings. you are right , we always knew we are!
It’s very nice to see pros like you guys work at the same people who knows what they do have a lot fun!! That’s the goal thanks for the content God bless you all !! 😊
Just what I needed! I just installed an Edelbrock Performer carb on my 78 C25 and was looking for a good way to tune it, I'm more of an EFI guy. Saw this video and rewatched it, turns out it had exactly what I needed at the end for carb tuning! You guys always make such great videos! Keep up the good work!
Blue print engines sell a budget 350 cast iron head with 373 hp 400 ft torque for 2700 bucks free shipping and majority of them are putting down north of 373 on the dyno!! Now that is budget power that normal joe can stuff in his rig!
Used is best...Buddy got a vortec short block for $325 ....bitch looks like new inside...All he needs is a cam and heads...He can built his for under 2500$
I have a question for all of you engine builders out there. I always put the cam in before the crank so I can guide it through the cam bearings more easily and then add the lube to the lobes after it's installed. I never see any of these engine builders on TV or RUclips doing that. They always install the crank first and then use a tool to try and install the cam without damaging the bearings. Am I alone in doing this? Is there a good reason I don't know about to install the crank before the cam? Nice to see an updated 350 small block build by the way with the current parts available.
I always try to do the cam first. Like you say so I can guide it in and also since occasionally the cam doesn't spin perfectly free. Like to go back after the whole rotating assembly is in and have to mess with the cam bearings? I can see mocking things up prior, but for the final assembly yes cam first for me. We all have our ways, but if I was speaking to newbies I would always teach them the safe ways of doing things. They can develop their preferences after that.
That’s what I like about you it’s no bullshit and down to earth real dimensions I’ve use plastic gauge in the past to verify clearances and you tell it as it is
Hi guys, Just wanted to let you know I love this channel, so much knowledge you give is great. Thank you. As a viewer I would love to see you guys go to a bone yard and pick up engines and rebuild them to see how much horsepower you can get out of them. You might have already done it but I'm new to the channel. I think people would enjoy it. Just a thought. Thanks for your channel. Hollowpoint.🏁🏎️
On the flat topic cam I recommend spray on graphite. Or brushing on the break-in lubricant when you have excess buildup especially with heavy valve springs the lifter may not rotate also get a cheap cam don't cheap out on the lifters
That's basically what this is: Just a overpriced low powered crate. With a lot more work. If you are going to put the time and money into building it yourself i would want at least 400/400.
@nutter I mean you could do it with Chinese heads hyoer pistons Arp everything else stock spin it to 6000 max yeah might cost 4k and make 400..maybe. Depends in compression and cam..oh shit thats past 4k 😆
@@bigboreracing356 i play with them all...fords, chevy, dodge, imports but chevy will always come out on top and no im not bias towards any brand just from experience.
@@bigboreracing356 when us chevy boys loses we take it like a man and come back harder next time. Ford boy loses he's pulling out the dictionary and making all the excuse he can come up with.
Junkyard motor, though. You don’t know the history, was it maintained, was it abused, was the vehicle junked because the engine was so awful... That kind of gambling on reliability might be okay on a toy you play with on the drag strip. But if my engine grenades, that vehicle is my livelihood (tradesman, no truck, no job). For me a big end bearing failure won’t just cost me a 1000$ junkyard motor, it will cost me around 10k and possibly lose me my job during a time when finding new employment is difficult to impossible. If you are not considering the consequences of that bargain junker LS exploding, and these are not the only potential pitfalls, then think carefully before you take the chance.
Most sheets of notebook or printer paper is. 003 to. 004 thick if you don't have a dial indicator to check thrust. I would recommend dial indicator tho.
Who in the hell thought putting a single plane intake on an engine with 218@.050 was a good idea? That intake is killing that engine. A dual plane would boost those numbers, and more importantly seriously improve throttle response and drivability.
PD Köester I know right! That thing with 10.2:1 compression will certainly have to be dialed back on 87 octane. It might even diesel upon shutdown when it’s good and hot.
@@wvXvxvXvw not really a matter of affordability, just the principal of seeing if that is possible with that modest increase in compression, and power...
I inherited my father’s splitting axe. It has been in continuous use by my family for over 200 years. In all that time we have only replaced the handle 9 times and the head once. But you know what? It is still the axe of my great great grandfather, and high my family has used every day for over two centuries...
I built an almost identical version of this engine. A 357 ci Vortec headed engine. The main difference was I used a set of Iron heads from Odessa Racing Head Service. They are 2.02/1.60 with 7/16 screw in studs and the springs can handle up to .600 lift all for $800 total shipped to my house. I also used a Comp Cams 272/.502 roller cam and an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. The result was 394 hp on 87 octane. I know everyone can’t afford a roller cam and lifters but they are superior to flat tappets if you can afford them. I would skip the Aluminum heads and go for the roller cam every time if it were me.👍 On a side note the Summit 600 cfm carburetor of mine tuned to the max VS the Dyno rooms Holley 650 HP was worth 26 HP. Yep I bought it and they ARE expensive because they work. Even so I only have about $3000 bucks in mine because I already had an Engine block and good crankshaft and rods.
That cam is a cute little fella. I’d have went with a bigger cam. If it has to be a hydraulic flat tappet then probably a Voodoo with slightly more duration and quite a bit more lift. A roller would have that thing screaming but the price would be higher. They’re doing a sales pitch for Summit’s in house brands. Nice little peppy street motor though.
Can you guys take a stock bore 350 and see what the HP gain is when bored .020 over, .030 over, and .040 over ... compare each to the stock bore HP and only change the bore size... nothing else. I haven't found anyone that has ever tested this and shared the results. Thanks! Keep the great vids coming!
That minor amount does about zilch affecting combustion chamber dynamics or anything else. So the only thing it does is add a few cubic inches. If you have about 1 HP per cubic inch you can expect about 3 more HP if you bore .030 which adds about 3 cubic inches. A 350 chevy piston is 4" and your fingernails are about .020 thick. That little bit of size increase makes little difference. It is mostly all about remachining the piston bores perfectly round not to add size. The past, days I know of, where when there was a such thing as major overboring being possible without special high dollar blocks. Production engines went to thinwall blocks in the 60's and large overboring is not viable with most of them.
Little to No HP increase because the heads and cam flow the same amount of air/HP... but figure a lb.-ft. of torque increase for each 1 cubic inch displacement increase...
Go buy a chevy 350 from the junkyard & a Chilton's manual for it at your local parts store. Get a engine stand put it in your garage and start disassembling it by the manual, then reassemble. Keep doing that until you understand it.
Technically, "LB-Feet" is correct. We've all been using Ft-Lbs forever, but it's incorrect macsmotorcitygarage.com/foot-pounds-and-pound-feet-whats-the-difference/
I found you guys a couple of months ago, and glad I did as I race streetstock dirt cars! Keeping this thing a 355 SBC, what in theory would happen of you were to order the eagle rods and Molly Pistons like you all put in the Dirt Devil 409, but matched them to the specs of this engines bore and stroke, and kept everything else the same? What would the cost be brought up to? Do they make those pistons to fit the 355 SBC? And what kind of HP and torque would be made? Keep on making these great videos I study them about every night as I'm wanting to build my own racing engine! Thank you in advanced!
Still out of most "blue collar Joe's" budget. My dad & I built a peppy little motor for my 74' Vette for around $1,500 & estimate around 350+ hp. Think it was a 307 bored out to 312ci or something weird. Had 11:1 compression & roller valve train. Nice lumpy cam that wasn't too crazy, it sounded amazing & was a blast to drive! Although it was severely limited from stock suspension & brakes along with an automatic. I can only imagine how badass it would have been with a proper suspension & a 5-speed manual 😍
I would have liked to have seen the results with the summit p/n SUM-1788 cam shaft, a Weiand street warrior and a Brawler 650. a little bit more lift and duration, a dual plane and a reasonable carb. I feel like stage 1 could have been 375hp 400lbs-ft for the same money, same idle vacuum. or not, but i'd like to see.
Yeah, as soon as i saw aluminum heads i knew this budget was already way higher that any average joe, but seeing the hp, we built iron headed engines for the circle track for less than 2,000 that put out over 400 hp, our 406ci engines put out over 500 but they would have run you 3700
11:48 min, The Weiand team G won the 1985 hot rod manifold shoot out for single plain intakes. The weiand 8004 won the dual plain shoot out, but this one was by a small margin.
I would really like to see a small block Chevy valve angle comparison. Such as an 18 degree vs 23 degree head comparison, there aren't many videos showing the true effects of valve angle and power along with drive-ability. PowerNation definitely has my favorite mix of performance engine and budget engine builds though.
I enjoyed this video. That said this is why it's hard to justify not going to an LS. Does those numbers from the junk yard. Cost me 218 for a long block with intake and torque converter. Then spend the same you'll make closer to 500. Turbo and you'll blow those numbers out the water.
@@chrisabrew4031 Somebody is salty over nothing, it's a build, if I can save a few hundred bucks AND not have to worry about it that's the smart fiscal move. Take your time and money into another aspect of the build like interior, suspension, or overall final touches.
4K? That’s crazy. I paid $150 for a shit block, had it bored .030”, aligned honed, new freeze plugs, new cam bearings and single rear main to 2 piece rear main for $850. I got a crower 3.50” stroke crank for $1200 and then scat 6” rods along with JE flat top forged pistons for another $400. I’m running cast iron 2.02/1.600 with some home porting and a tunnel ram with dual 600 Holleys. My cam is a Howard’s custom grind solid roller that was $350 and my engine made 540hp @7300
I want y'all to build " The Battle of the Junk Yard Grudge Engines" Where some of these grudge racers run cheap junk yard engines until they blow up and get another one. Either get a 96 Explorer Engine with a 302 with the GT40 heads or a 351W roller block using the GT40 instead of the E7. Then get either a 5.0 or 5.7 Chevy Vortec head roller block. Make sure that the cubic inches match one another. 302 vs 305 or 351W vs 350 Use a nitrous cam in it, stud the heads, MLS head gaskets, stud the heads, new rings and bearings, gap the rings , use a carburetor and intake.
Guys this show is from 2016 and prices have come down since then. Yes you can buy a crate cheaper, but doing it by yourself, or with a kid is much more rewarding.
Ok look, i know that Im still young (17) but when people complain about this not being a budget build I always forget people don't have the assets I do. I grew up in a home where my dad collected a lot of old short blocks from when he worked at a dealership. (He doesn't tell all the stories behind it other than he just accumulated stuff) so when people say oh lord this is too expensive im thinking, I have a 350 block, steel crank, higher compression pistons and a set of vortec cylinder heads that were either given to me or I found for super cheap. I come here to learn random tid bits of info on engine building
When putting the rings on the piston what position on the piston do you put the ring gap on the top two rings? The third ring doesn’t have a gap from what I see. Thanks.
Made more power and torque than the low buck 5.3. LS has 15 degree head vs 23 degree for sbc. Also had a tad larger cam than this engine, and a hydraulic roller vs a flat tappet. This is why the old sbc is still here. Especially those torque numbers. The sbc would have picked up even more with a better dual plane intake.
If you're going to make a point of ring gaps, and point out the top ring gap was a little oversize but OK, you should also check the bottom ring to be sure it's a few .001s bigger. The top ring was oversize, but maybe the bottom ring isn't - resulting in 2nd ring gap being tighter than the top.
Get this kind of power for under $2K... and including roller cam... This 218/218 flat tappet cam looks like some overstock that Summit bought from Comp and re-boxed as to brand...
Half the county makes 30,000 a year or less sometimes much less here in NC where i live, people drive 1200 2000 dollar trucks here 1000 dollar engine rebuilds done in a garage yourself is the norm around here
Why use a 360 deg. intake on a street motor? In auto shop back in 1972 they said to use a 180 intake for the street and a 360 only with big cams and a manual trans.
How do I get 800 HP out my small block ? Its bored 60 over with 292h comp cam with 501 lift, derale dual electric fans a 3500 stall in B&M transmission kit in 9.5.1 compression ratio
You can subscribe to the PN+ ad-free version for only 99 cents for the first month!
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PowerNation where can I buy a block like the one you’re building now? You said it was $ 700
Do a 350 or 454 TBI build
No thanks you don't need a subscription when 25% of your videos are ads and sponsors.
@@worstnightmare9772that engine is a 350. They already did a 454 engine. You miss it
I got a 350 that turned out to be a 30 over 355 for free and after a basic rebuild with just bearings gaskets and rings...stock iron heads ported and polished and Edelbrock intake and carb and longtube headers I made 378.4 horsepower and only spent 150 for the parts to rebuild it and my time lol that’s a real budget build
Awesome brother. So what vehicle is the 355 in.
$4000 is my whole truck.
Same here x2
@DeevoxL bone, twig, pine needles. All of the above.
Budget is new rings bearings and cam shaft, lifters,oil pump ,gaskets 500 bucks
1/4 of that for my truck but i got my truck for a steal
its a 1975 ford f250 highboy 360 4speed banged up but not rusty at all for a 44 year old vermont truck
They only had that much in it because they didn't already have a good motor to mod. They bought everything brand new.
PowerNation ... I have watched the contents of this playlist so many times, and every time I end up learning something new. Thank you so much for sharing these videos with us! I have a 1980's vehicle (from my father) that I someday hope to properly restore, and thanks to the valuable information you've shared with me about SBC engines I have a very good idea how to accomplish this without rendering myself bankrupt. Thank you, thank you, thank you PowerNation ... I'm forever indebted to you!
This channel shows EXACTLY how much information I'm looking for, just as someone curious about how making an engine works. Thanks for the quality videos.
I see there’s another person here named after a character
Sorry but no it doesn't they leave out a lot engine masters with David Freiburger is way better
Also every product they plug on here are usually junk
a few episodes ago i remember reading comments that complained about the seemingly rediculous amount of money being put into the builds, and how a normal joe could never afford a build like that. good job on changing it up, trying to bring what is wanted to the table. aswell as improving the tech tip to showing another way to tune a carb. at least they are trying.
With $4k im going to chevy performance and saving the trouble. Plus I'll have a warranty
That's a good idea but I like the pride of building my motor
@@Outlaw_Cleetus and he will only have 200 hp 😂
@@off-roadmotorsports5148 🤣🤣
Building a engine gives you room for ajusting everything for future upgrades or especific use, and more chevy performance engines have a lot of "loose power and weakneses a built engine doesnt have
You could buy it part by part rather than dropping 4k and you get no say where you cheap out
That was some fancy silicone laying down, looked like welds.
Pound feet. Lol ... In the old days it’s was called foot pounds. 👍 us good old boys, had to use a tree to pull an engine out. Didn’t have a shop to work in. An all the high Tech tools and gauges . I m glad to see improvements overall. Great video 😎
yup its always written pounds per foot and spoken foot pounds for me LoL :o) makes sense. some people do not realize that it is swapped around in writing because of the rules of english and scientific language influencing the direct meaning and not to be confused with other meanings from similar writings. you are right , we always knew we are!
380 lbs... not 380 feet...
It’s very nice to see pros like you guys work at the same people who knows what they do have a lot fun!! That’s the goal thanks for the content God bless you all !! 😊
1785 summit cam .. just installed the same one in my truck.. sounds good and a upgrade in performance .. i got vortec heads as well with stock springs
All that motor for that ancient trash cam. YOU HAD A ROLLER BLOCK.
For a 5500 rpm engine yeah maybe it just cost maybe 150-200 more. They should have did that.
Just what I needed! I just installed an Edelbrock Performer carb on my 78 C25 and was looking for a good way to tune it, I'm more of an EFI guy. Saw this video and rewatched it, turns out it had exactly what I needed at the end for carb tuning! You guys always make such great videos! Keep up the good work!
Blue print engines sell a budget 350 cast iron head with 373 hp 400 ft torque for 2700 bucks free shipping and majority of them are putting down north of 373 on the dyno!! Now that is budget power that normal joe can stuff in his rig!
Used is best...Buddy got a vortec short block for $325 ....bitch looks like new inside...All he needs is a cam and heads...He can built his for under 2500$
@@bilbobaggins4710 - Vortec long block plus pistons/cam is 425 HP mild daily driver..
@@bilbobaggins4710 I've ripped out junkyard heads for my last TPI build, the vortec heads are fantastic when matched with a SD adapter manifold.
@@bilbobaggins4710 😂😂 bitch looks new on the inside lol im dying over here. It does look new.
@@LSxHunter whats an SD adapter manifold? serious question
I have a question for all of you engine builders out there. I always put the cam in before the crank so I can guide it through the cam bearings more easily and then add the lube to the lobes after it's installed. I never see any of these engine builders on TV or RUclips doing that. They always install the crank first and then use a tool to try and install the cam without damaging the bearings. Am I alone in doing this? Is there a good reason I don't know about to install the crank before the cam? Nice to see an updated 350 small block build by the way with the current parts available.
I always try to do the cam first. Like you say so I can guide it in and also since occasionally the cam doesn't spin perfectly free. Like to go back after the whole rotating assembly is in and have to mess with the cam bearings? I can see mocking things up prior, but for the final assembly yes cam first for me. We all have our ways, but if I was speaking to newbies I would always teach them the safe ways of doing things. They can develop their preferences after that.
Out if àll the small block Chevy's built this particular series of builds are by far some of the best ones
That’s what I like about you it’s no bullshit and down to earth real dimensions I’ve use plastic gauge in the past to verify clearances and you tell it as it is
Hi guys, Just wanted to let you know I love this channel, so much knowledge you give is great. Thank you. As a viewer I would love to see you guys go to a bone yard and pick up engines and rebuild them to see how much horsepower you can get out of them. You might have already done it but I'm new to the channel. I think people would enjoy it. Just a thought. Thanks for your channel. Hollowpoint.🏁🏎️
On the flat topic cam I recommend spray on graphite. Or brushing on the break-in lubricant when you have excess buildup especially with heavy valve springs the lifter may not rotate also get a cheap cam don't cheap out on the lifters
No TFE paste on the head bolts going into the water jacket?
4000 bucks I would want more then 350 hp. Could order a crate motor for that haha
That's basically what this is: Just a overpriced low powered crate. With a lot more work. If you are going to put the time and money into building it yourself i would want at least 400/400.
How long is that gonna stay together for 4k??
STREET RACER someone’s a little over confident 😂
STREET RACER valid point
@nutter I mean you could do it with Chinese heads hyoer pistons Arp everything else stock spin it to 6000 max yeah might cost 4k and make 400..maybe. Depends in compression and cam..oh shit thats past 4k 😆
That engine came together nicely!!
It sure did I wish mine would go together that easy
Of course the plastigage is accurate. It's been around as long as I can remember. Very long time!
I use plastigauge weather I measured them or not, it's a good back up check to make sure your math is correct.
Bone stock LS 5.3 with cam swap equals 400hp and you'll save 3000.
Of course put twin turbos on a ls and see who wins...ford fan boys are the biggest cry babies....😂😂😂
@@bigboreracing356 i play with them all...fords, chevy, dodge, imports but chevy will always come out on top and no im not bias towards any brand just from experience.
@@bigboreracing356 when us chevy boys loses we take it like a man and come back harder next time. Ford boy loses he's pulling out the dictionary and making all the excuse he can come up with.
Junkyard motor, though. You don’t know the history, was it maintained, was it abused, was the vehicle junked because the engine was so awful... That kind of gambling on reliability might be okay on a toy you play with on the drag strip. But if my engine grenades, that vehicle is my livelihood (tradesman, no truck, no job). For me a big end bearing failure won’t just cost me a 1000$ junkyard motor, it will cost me around 10k and possibly lose me my job during a time when finding new employment is difficult to impossible. If you are not considering the consequences of that bargain junker LS exploding, and these are not the only potential pitfalls, then think carefully before you take the chance.
Most sheets of notebook or printer paper is. 003 to. 004 thick if you don't have a dial indicator to check thrust. I would recommend dial indicator tho.
What I love about those motors was that you can put them in cars trucks boats tractors almost any thing
These guys teachin me so much I love Watchin this
always use a hardened oil pump driveshaft, on the summit heads pull the valve tubes and use phosphor bronze valve tubes.
Who in the hell thought putting a single plane intake on an engine with 218@.050 was a good idea? That intake is killing that engine. A dual plane would boost those numbers, and more importantly seriously improve throttle response and drivability.
keith stoehr yeah like seriously
Like totally
And they didn't even come up with some excuse why they did that. It is not right for performance but I would never deny someone that liked the looks.
They use what they get free...
when doing the piston and ring install i wish u guys had covered ring installation and the best way to position the ring gaps (top and bottom)
There's a million videos out showing that just search it
0:46 Sweet baby Jesus that's a lot of pens! 😂
SHIRT POCKETS ARE LIFE
Show us what it can do on 87 octane, adjusted to not ping or detonate incorrectly.
PD Köester I know right! That thing with 10.2:1 compression will certainly have to be dialed back on 87 octane. It might even diesel upon shutdown when it’s good and hot.
Why on earth would anyone run 87 octane in a performance engine? If you can't afford good gas, you absolutely can't afford to build a good engine.
@@wvXvxvXvw not really a matter of affordability, just the principal of seeing if that is possible with that modest increase in compression, and power...
@@wvXvxvXvw I'm with you on this one brother!!!
Those #345 pistons have lower Compression Height than claimed... use proper Summit hypereutectic pistons for a lower price...
i love it. Next could you dyno some jegs heads with an EPS intake and an XR276HR10 or XR282HR10 cam with the same 10pt.25to1 static compression?
EPS intake is imo the best all around st dual plane. Good hood clearance and supports plenty of power.
Stage 2: New internals.
Stage 3: New block.
Is it the same engine?
I inherited my father’s splitting axe. It has been in continuous use by my family for over 200 years. In all that time we have only replaced the handle 9 times and the head once.
But you know what? It is still the axe of my great great grandfather, and high my family has used every day for over two centuries...
I built an almost identical version of this engine. A 357 ci Vortec headed engine. The main difference was I used a set of Iron heads from Odessa Racing Head Service. They are 2.02/1.60 with 7/16 screw in studs and the springs can handle up to .600 lift all for $800 total shipped to my house. I also used a Comp Cams 272/.502 roller cam and an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. The result was 394 hp on 87 octane. I know everyone can’t afford a roller cam and lifters but they are superior to flat tappets if you can afford them. I would skip the Aluminum heads and go for the roller cam every time if it were me.👍 On a side note the Summit 600 cfm carburetor of mine tuned to the max VS the Dyno rooms Holley 650 HP was worth 26 HP. Yep I bought it and they ARE expensive because they work. Even so I only have about $3000 bucks in mine because I already had an Engine block and good crankshaft and rods.
That cam is a cute little fella. I’d have went with a bigger cam. If it has to be a hydraulic flat tappet then probably a Voodoo with slightly more duration and quite a bit more lift. A roller would have that thing screaming but the price would be higher. They’re doing a sales pitch for Summit’s in house brands. Nice little peppy street motor though.
Piston ring gap is not effected by piston expansion, ring gap is to allow increase in length of the ring due to heat expansion.
Ya to allow for extra room when the piston expands
Piston insertion - dry vs lubed ? do you lube cylinder or rings with anything when stabbing the pistons ?
Absolutely lube them. You would never want to let anything that needs lube to run ever be dry.
14:40 ["Excellent for cheap."] I bought my GM Performance Parts ZZ4 crate engine for around $3,000 back in the day which made 355/410.
∆ what he said ∆
The prices have gone up quite a bit in the last 5 or so years.
I remember the price of the ZZ4 going up before they discontinued it but you can still get 375hp 350's from BluePrint, ATK and many others for $3k
Is the socket @6:10 machined for a thinner wall to fit in tight spaces? It looks to have been put on a lathe.
Can you guys take a stock bore 350 and see what the HP gain is when bored .020 over, .030 over, and .040 over ... compare each to the stock bore HP and only change the bore size... nothing else. I haven't found anyone that has ever tested this and shared the results. Thanks! Keep the great vids coming!
That minor amount does about zilch affecting combustion chamber dynamics or anything else. So the only thing it does is add a few cubic inches. If you have about 1 HP per cubic inch you can expect about 3 more HP if you bore .030 which adds about 3 cubic inches. A 350 chevy piston is 4" and your fingernails are about .020 thick. That little bit of size increase makes little difference. It is mostly all about remachining the piston bores perfectly round not to add size.
The past, days I know of, where when there was a such thing as major overboring being possible without special high dollar blocks. Production engines went to thinwall blocks in the 60's and large overboring is not viable with most of them.
Little to No HP increase because the heads and cam flow the same amount of air/HP... but figure a lb.-ft. of torque increase for each 1 cubic inch displacement increase...
Wow, really blue balled me with that dyno run
$1,100 was my whole car !
THANK YOU SO MUCH. A TOTALLYAWSOME BUILD!!!!
Shows price 3,999.99
*-ITS UNDER 4000!-*
Add labor and thats another 2000
I like the machined down socket to torque the cam gear bolts. Wonder why the didn't mention that.
How about a dual plane intake like the performer rpm air gap and a Lunati voodoo 268 cam with this set up?
100% agree. 400hp easy
Way wrong intake was used.
And cam way too small to use those heads.
@@indyrock8148 and these guys always preach how the single plane is not good for the street or a build like this.
@@AZpatriot69. I think someone made an ordering mistake, but they just slapped it together and filmed.
If only they actually taught us how to do it like I wanna work on a motor I have but idk how
Go buy a chevy 350 from the junkyard & a Chilton's manual for it at your local parts store. Get a engine stand put it in your garage and start disassembling it by the manual, then reassemble. Keep doing that until you understand it.
4300 gets you a 496 stroker from blueprint engines out of the same summit catalog. That has 440hp and 560tq. I'll go that route instead.
THANK YOU, SUMMIT RACING!!!!!
lol, I love it "pound feet" when for the 60+ years I have been around "ft pounds" always worked just fine.
Technically, "LB-Feet" is correct. We've all been using Ft-Lbs forever, but it's incorrect
macsmotorcitygarage.com/foot-pounds-and-pound-feet-whats-the-difference/
I found you guys a couple of months ago, and glad I did as I race streetstock dirt cars!
Keeping this thing a 355 SBC, what in theory would happen of you were to order the eagle rods and Molly Pistons like you all put in the Dirt Devil 409, but matched them to the specs of this engines bore and stroke, and kept everything else the same?
What would the cost be brought up to? Do they make those pistons to fit the 355 SBC?
And what kind of HP and torque would be made?
Keep on making these great videos I study them about every night as I'm wanting to build my own racing engine!
Thank you in advanced!
Still out of most "blue collar Joe's" budget. My dad & I built a peppy little motor for my 74' Vette for around $1,500 & estimate around 350+ hp. Think it was a 307 bored out to 312ci or something weird. Had 11:1 compression & roller valve train. Nice lumpy cam that wasn't too crazy, it sounded amazing & was a blast to drive! Although it was severely limited from stock suspension & brakes along with an automatic. I can only imagine how badass it would have been with a proper suspension & a 5-speed manual 😍
I would have liked to have seen the results with the summit p/n SUM-1788 cam shaft, a Weiand street warrior and a Brawler 650. a little bit more lift and duration, a dual plane and a reasonable carb. I feel like stage 1 could have been 375hp 400lbs-ft for the same money, same idle vacuum. or not, but i'd like to see.
I cant believe this, i built a 347 for my 4x4 jeep with a torque cam and 165 afr, weiand steath maniford, 650 hp carb, made 398 hp
Yeah this is pretty pathetic. All of that to just get to 1HP per CI? Wow.
PERFECT FOR ANY DAILY DRIVER.
Thank you for posting this video my question is in the time stop 5:54 you didn't explain what you put on the double roller timing something
you leave the plastigauge in or scrape it off?
You never pound Main caps down with a hammer the bearing can pop out use the bolts or studs with nuts to line up the cap in snug it down carefully.
That summit block actually is a good deal. Cost 500 to get one machined in my city.
you can check front to back with feeler guages
A feeler gage can be used to check the thrust clearance .
I LOVE THE SBC AND THE LS.
Yeah, as soon as i saw aluminum heads i knew this budget was already way higher that any average joe, but seeing the hp, we built iron headed engines for the circle track for less than 2,000 that put out over 400 hp, our 406ci engines put out over 500 but they would have run you 3700
Yea I think I'd buy a tired ass ct 350 from a sportsman guy and freshen it up before I did this.
11:48 min, The Weiand team G won the 1985 hot rod manifold shoot out for single plain intakes. The weiand 8004 won the dual plain shoot out, but this one was by a small margin.
Need to see a small journal 327 sbc!!!!
I would really like to see a small block Chevy valve angle comparison. Such as an 18 degree vs 23 degree head comparison, there aren't many videos showing the true effects of valve angle and power along with drive-ability. PowerNation definitely has my favorite mix of performance engine and budget engine builds though.
The steeper degree is going to preform better since it will increase air velocity
I enjoyed this video. That said this is why it's hard to justify not going to an LS. Does those numbers from the junk yard. Cost me 218 for a long block with intake and torque converter. Then spend the same you'll make closer to 500. Turbo and you'll blow those numbers out the water.
Yeahhh. Imma just spend $4k on a crate with warranty with 450hp. SBCs just don't make sense to build vs buy.
Should be able to build this Stage One 357 HP for under $1K...
the fact of the matter is, it's built not bought. vagina
@@chrisabrew4031 Somebody is salty over nothing, it's a build, if I can save a few hundred bucks AND not have to worry about it that's the smart fiscal move. Take your time and money into another aspect of the build like interior, suspension, or overall final touches.
100% understand im just crackin a joke bud @@LSxHunter
@@chrisabrew4031 I might be a little touchy. It also could be the stupid BMW I've been working on building from the ground up.
4K? That’s crazy. I paid $150 for a shit block, had it bored .030”, aligned honed, new freeze plugs, new cam bearings and single rear main to 2 piece rear main for $850. I got a crower 3.50” stroke crank for $1200 and then scat 6” rods along with JE flat top forged pistons for another $400. I’m running cast iron 2.02/1.600 with some home porting and a tunnel ram with dual 600 Holleys. My cam is a Howard’s custom grind solid roller that was $350 and my engine made 540hp @7300
Dang man, you could have gotten a 3.65" crank from Summit cheaper with no machine work to the block for clearances.
You guys should do a budget build on a 4.6 PI motor of a mustang
I want y'all to build " The Battle of the Junk Yard Grudge Engines" Where some of these grudge racers run cheap junk yard engines until they blow up and get another one.
Either get a 96 Explorer Engine with a 302 with the GT40 heads or a 351W roller block using the GT40 instead of the E7.
Then get either a 5.0 or 5.7 Chevy Vortec head roller block.
Make sure that the cubic inches match one another. 302 vs 305 or 351W vs 350 Use a nitrous cam in it, stud the heads, MLS head gaskets, stud the heads, new rings and bearings, gap the rings , use a carburetor and intake.
Hey guys, question. Is too much spark a problem? Is their such a thing as too hot an ignition?!
What’s the best place to get your measuring tools? Bore gauge ect.
Guys this show is from 2016 and prices have come down since then. Yes you can buy a crate cheaper, but doing it by yourself, or with a kid is much more rewarding.
Finally, someone that sees the big picture. At least you know exactly what's in the motor, and will be able to appreciate it!
WOW !!! What an infomercial !!! They re-use nothing... BUY everything!
Ok look, i know that Im still young (17) but when people complain about this not being a budget build I always forget people don't have the assets I do. I grew up in a home where my dad collected a lot of old short blocks from when he worked at a dealership. (He doesn't tell all the stories behind it other than he just accumulated stuff) so when people say oh lord this is too expensive im thinking, I have a 350 block, steel crank, higher compression pistons and a set of vortec cylinder heads that were either given to me or I found for super cheap. I come here to learn random tid bits of info on engine building
Did you check the pick up to pan clearance ?
When putting the rings on the piston what position on the piston do you put the ring gap on the top two rings? The third ring doesn’t have a gap from what I see. Thanks.
You want the piston ring end gaps 90 degrees from each other. Doesn't matter their orientation.
I wanna see Mike on some civics , and Supras !
Headers seem kind of big for your set up for good torque ?
Does summit still make that kit? As far as the rotating assembly I clicked the link on your guys website and it doesn’t load says it’s not a thing?
Thought you had to break in a flat tappet cam? Why is there no mention of this?
This is a great option if you you plan to keep your car numbers matching
You guys should do a comparison of valve adjustments from 1/4 to 1/2 to full turn and how it effects horsepower.
I’ve always done half turn myself but that would be interesting
@@Spudderr that's where I adjust mine if I'm building a buddies engine I'll go full turn lol
How would that affect anything other than valve float recovery on a hydraulic cam?
where is the pcv valve? it needs a pcv in order to set the carb correctly.
Shaggy became a mechanic, where's scooby?
ARE YOU GUYS STILL MAKING SHOWS, I THINK I WATCHED ALL OF THEM, NEED MORE
Is there any aftermarket heads with evenly spaced exhaust ports?
Made more power and torque than the low buck 5.3. LS has 15 degree head vs 23 degree for sbc. Also had a tad larger cam than this engine, and a hydraulic roller vs a flat tappet.
This is why the old sbc is still here. Especially those torque numbers. The sbc would have picked up even more with a better dual plane intake.
If you're going to make a point of ring gaps, and point out the top ring gap was a little oversize but OK, you should also check the bottom ring to be sure it's a few .001s bigger. The top ring was oversize, but maybe the bottom ring isn't - resulting in 2nd ring gap being tighter than the top.
Just Under 4000 is not budget build lol. And above all of that you go with a flat tappet cam?? Roller rockers and no roller lifters and cam WTF..
Yeah for that kind of $ roller cam should be included
You are So Right ! Larry W ! i was thinking the same thing !
Get this kind of power for under $2K... and including roller cam... This 218/218 flat tappet cam looks like some overstock that Summit bought from Comp and re-boxed as to brand...
Get a better job then
Half the county makes 30,000 a year or less sometimes much less here in NC where i live, people drive 1200 2000 dollar trucks here 1000 dollar engine rebuilds done in a garage yourself is the norm around here
I just want to know where you get that degree wheel with the finger grooves.
Here's the cam degree wheel they used:
16-inch Aluminum Degree Wheel Kit, from Neely Precision LLC.
www.mcssl.com/store/neely-precision-llc/catalog/product/72f981f4f5264efd8c2b376373820c3a
Enjoy these videos, keepum comin
Why use a 360 deg. intake on a street motor? In auto shop back in 1972 they said to use a 180 intake for the street and a 360 only with big cams and a manual trans.
Are you using a Dart SHP block next? I love that build, would be great in my wife's 81 Z28...!
Yeah, that would be a $10K 'budget build'...
@@BuzzLOLOL $6K It costs to go fast and reliable.....dude....
@@SuperDave21 - Depends on how fast wanted... under $1K to over $100K for 'fast' and reliable... building it yourself, of course...
Does Summit offer this for a marine application?
How do I get 800 HP out my small block ? Its bored 60 over with 292h comp cam with 501 lift, derale dual electric fans a 3500 stall in B&M transmission kit in 9.5.1 compression ratio
A year later I am still trying to find the prolpac series engine kit you show here???