Nice video...you need a a 7th quart. Oil capacity is 6.4qts. I don’t know why Toyota did it that way but that’s what my ‘12 Sienna takes...major props on using a Toyota filter. Don’t use anything else. Same goes for spark plugs. Use oem. You don’t want to do that job twice...
Bob: you have a way of articulating this process just right! My hats off to you and thanks for the time and effort to this rather simple process. I have a 2015 Sienna LE and I feel much more confident doing the deed. out of all the others, this one gets my thumbs up and a click to subscribe Don
I don't take the small cap off ever and don't use the Breather obviously. Just crack it and let it drain into your pan. When you're finished take $0.10 worth of carb cleaner and spray off the housing. Then you don't have to change that small seal and risk it leaking. Just my take on it.
Well done Bob, I would do virtually the same as U do, as I did on my Corolla's. That is what I call TRUE quality oil change. VERY good job indeed! Ca, USA.
Nice - the only youtube video that is complete in all the steps for changing oil/filter for sienna. Thanks. I just changed oil/filter on my sienna 2017. That plastic thing to remove oil fromthe filter was difficult to get in.
THE BEST Sienna oil change ANY viewer SHOULD appreciate indeed! WITH Bob's permission, I would like to share few tips of my own in addition to rephrase, reminder never hurts anyone indeed (!), Bob's illutrations. FIRST OFF, {some oil WILL BE inside oil chamber n NEED some times to go down to oil engine pan, SO, U cannot really measure HOW MUCH oil is in oil pan n personally, I wait 20-30-minutes after warm up engine and then measure oil level!). WE MUST NOT forget "19.5-torque-4-MAIN-oil-HOUSING-assembly-N-9.5-torque-in-the-MIDDLE-part-of-main-oil-assemly-that is "CRITICALLY" important NOT to drip of oil come out OVER the 9k-10k miles depending conditions we drive! NOW, many of us, lots of people, FORGET to "loosen oil cap and oil dip stick way up IN ORDER TO LOOSEN or to REMOVE pressue inside of oil champer!! WE SHOULD MAKE SURE loosen oil inserting cap n oil dip stick PULL ON to remove pressure inside engine-chamber-N-via oil pan and WILL help "drain oil faster N better even common sense should tell U that"!! AND NOW, as it can be seen Bob's excellent demonstration, which I agree fully, "proper way" chaning Siennia oil change (or any of oil that is filter based), is to MAKING sure DRAIN middle oil filter-housing-by-loosening middle part of the MAIN oil housing assembly by using ratch N using 3/8 size wranch extention rod as Bob showed to us WHICH will make quite eaiser to loosen the MAIN-oil-assembly housing assembly due to "removing-the-most of pressure that has been build up inside of MAIN oil housing assembly that will come off much easier!" PLUS making sure 2-replace-{EVERY-TIME-SHOULD-indeed-), paper-gasket-every-time-(!)-to prevent oil leak is absolutly neceassary! APPLY clean oil rather than using dirty oil to lubriate two rubber oil gaskets (small N large) rings SHOULD be way 2-go!! WHY use dirty oil to lubriate rubber gaskets before inserting rubber gaskets to small-N-large-OIL-rubber-gaskets? USE clearn oil to lubricate seem common sense 2-me! Before reassembing or inserting the MAIN-OIL-ASSEMBLY-UNIT-2-make SURE wipe-out-all that dirty oil "residues-surrounding oil drain plug itself N around oil drain hole" BEFORE inserting back regular MAIN-oil-assembly-housing-N-of course even oil drain gasket area BEFORE retightening oil drain gasket with BRAND-NEW-PAPER-GASKET-(every time) OIL DRAIN 14-MM bolt. *Tip is using codeless ratch to loosen MOST of oil drain (I have cordless ratchers N I do as I said suggested here!), bolt BEFORE finally loosen to let out oil and size we all know is 14-mm (I have been told virtually ALL Toyota oil drain plug is 14-mm-that makes whole of sense from economic sense by seperate size to manefacture that takes extra machine cuts and all that rest?). So, comforting to know all Toyota drain plug size is 14-mm. *I have been using 14-mm-craftman-made-wrench-all-these-years-N-NEVER-rust (!)-I-found-the best-(cheap immitate one's do rust after a while-but NOT craftman wrench after all these years! Naturally I have NEVER been nor any friend works for Sears, before n now. SO, I personally recommend to get quality wrench made with quality metal LIKE Craftman-wrench or Sears partner LIKE Dodge's partner Cummins supply due to "lasting durability N quality N dependerability of Cumins, now Cummins engine maker does supply its bread n butter Cummin engine to Ford 550 Truck. I have just made another example to strengthing m point of LASTING dependerablity tool like Craftman tool-N-after all Craftman tool has life time warranty is for one thing but NEVER have to go Sears to replace cz the Craftma tool I have NEVER built up rust, except plastic part of digital tork wrench, not recommend that Craftman digital tork wrench but I do recommend either price Precision (I just purchased as sucker for tools!) and or more affortable LEVON TORK WRENCHES BOTH 3/8 N 1/2 N like very much I purchased BOTH aformentioend brand, again, LEXIVON tork wrenchs N FLIP LUG NUT 1/2 drive impact socket set as well. I am for one VERY GLAD that, thank got, Sears or Craftman still survive thanks to new Searrs owner who purchased Sears during chaper 13 bankrupicy who used to be Sears executive according the aritlce I have read on the article that is public fact indeed! This much I can share anyone care to read 4 one time. USA
That "proper" step by first spinning-off the center small portion of the oil cap...using the goofy drain valve, etc....all can be skipped. It's gonna be messy regardess....just drain via the normal drain opening a bit longer....and then just spin off the oil cap.....use nitrile gloves.....oil will spill but there is no "trapped air" to release....what you did the "proper" way just drains the extra bit of oil from the oil cap. If it was a spin-on filter......you'd be facing the same thing.....the filter having some amount of oil in it . Eliminates a step and another leak source by opening another area, needing another O-ring, etc...leave it alone. CAUTION !!!.... CAUTION !!!...... the oil cap "tool" to take the cap off....has a center 3/8" recess for a 3/8 drive....AND it has a 24 or 27 mm hex around that. These are on SO TIGHT (regardless if done by Toyota or the oil-change monkeys), that if you use the smaller 3/8 drive to LOOSEN the cap, you can BREAK or STRIP OUT the cap !. USE THE 27mm HEX TO LOOSEN THE CAP, AND FEEL FREE TO USE THE 3/8 DRIVE TO TIGHTEN THE CAP. Not too much,....just 18 ft/lbs to tighten back on. Most oil change places make it TOO TIGHT !!!!!
U can get from Sears or Craftman or Amazon or Walt mart every where or price Toyota dealer, but paper oil drain gasket SHOULD get OEM, I just go Toyota dealer NOT to take chance on online sometimes, lots of times, different than what I saw on computer and return headache all that! Besides it is below two buck for one gasket n know U will have 100 percent OEM part!
The breather at 1:40 is plastic and can get brittle in winter. If you search, several folks sell a $15 reusable metal tool to make this job a lot more pleasant.
No...the smaller center cap just give you a chance to drain a small extra volume of oil without a big "glug" spilling out otherwise. It will spill anyway so you don't need to do the center cap stuff.
Just changed the oil on my wife's Sienna for the first time this past weekend after watching this video. Well done! Thank you for the great instructions and for breaking this down so well.
Finally!!! Someone who knows what he's talking about :-) Yay, thank you! I especially liked the details on torque wrench settings and how to reset the maintenance light... You are now my personal hero!
do you think it will work on my 2018 toyota siena base model? i tried the other videos how to reset but no luck. i just change the oil even though no maintenance light on the dash.
Bro I have the exact same tool but I broke that sum bitch trying to remove that cartridge wtf did I do wrong ? I was going the same direction and everything???
CAUTION !!!...... the oil cap "tool" to take the cap off....has a center 3/8" recess for a 3/8 drive....AND it has a 24 or 27 mm hex around that. These are on SO TIGHT (regardless if done by Toyota or the oil-change monkeys), that if you use the smaller 3/8 drive to LOOSEN the cap, you can BREAK or STRIP OUT the cap !. USE THE 27mm HEX TO LOOSEN THE CAP, AND FEEL FREE TO USE THE 3/8 DRIVE TO TIGHTEN THE CAP. Not too much,....just 18 ft/lbs to tighten back on. Most oil change places make it TOO TIGHT !!!!!
The one I like is here... www.amazon.com/dp/B00XTAGHU0/ref=sspa_dk_hqp_detail_aax_0?psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzVlZCV0tMOUhHQ0JMJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODEzNjQ0MU4xTElaVjhISFJKUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTQwMDE1MjFQWjRIR1lHOFZOUCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2hxcF9zaGFyZWQmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
Excellent video, Please advise best oil, best oil filter, where did you bought the tools? I don’t have oil filter cover opener and torque wrench. I have sienna 2007, with 195100 miles. Please guide
Khawar Syed Mobil 1 in the weight prescribed for your van. Toyota oil filter, can be had for $6 at the dealer but I order mine online for about the same price. The tool can be found all over amazon...
I've been using Pennzoil Full Synthetic in our 2008 Sienna for years now and I've been more than pleased with it. The tools are readily available at auto shops or Toyota directly, although they are a bit higher. The Mobil 1 branded filter is made exceptionally well.
I use the Motivx # 2320 oil filter cap wrench along with Super Tech 0W-20 full synthetic oil and either a K&N, OEM Toyota or Super Tech oil filter. I change mine every 5,000 miles. The adapter that comes with the Super Tech filter to drain the oil from the oil filter is threaded instead of snapping in. Some find that style easier to use and less messy.
David Garcia four cylinder is easy, v6 not so much. There’s a good video for the v6 here on RUclips...just search for it...and go to Toyota for the plugs...
Thank you for the video...I watched it after i changed oil...and they did a mistake for me...the small rubber thing they put it from the opposite side from where you put it...meaning they put the small rubber ring then the filter above...will that cause a problem? I can ignore it till the next time I change oil and filter?? Thank you
Attention to detail! Thanks for the help. Got 08 Sienna couple of weeks ago for my brother in law and will drop it off to New Mexico from SoCal next month so this video really helps me what to buy and do on my own.
I recommend the Motivx # 2320. It is one of the more expensive available but has the best reviews on Amazon. Technically it does not remove the housing. It removes the oil filter cap assembly and is called an oil filter cap wrench.
@@stevensevek6151 ....CAUTION !!!, especially if you use a cheaper tool...... the oil cap "tool" to take the cap off....has a center 3/8" recess for a 3/8 drive....AND it has a 24 or 27 mm hex around that. These are on SO TIGHT (regardless if done by Toyota or the oil-change monkeys), that if you use the smaller 3/8 drive to LOOSEN the cap, you can BREAK or STRIP OUT the cap !. USE THE 27mm HEX TO LOOSEN THE CAP, AND FEEL FREE TO USE THE 3/8 DRIVE TO TIGHTEN THE CAP. Not too much,....just 18 ft/lbs to tighten back on. Most oil change places make it TOO TIGHT !!!!!
Amazon, of course. Or sometimes, my family Doctor 'donates' to my DIY car stuff. Seriously, when I'm in there getting my yearly physical after he's done 'tossing my salad while I cough', I usually ask him for a few pair. He always gives me about 5 pair. LOL.
You did not show the oil filter cannister actually break loose with the ratchet. Did you have to get a breaker bar or impact wrench? These are commonly over torqued.
CAUTION !!!...... the oil cap "tool" to take the cap off....has a center 3/8" recess for a 3/8 drive....AND it has a 24 or 27 mm hex around that. These are on SO TIGHT (regardless if done by Toyota or the oil-change monkeys), that if you use the smaller 3/8 drive to LOOSEN the cap, you can BREAK or STRIP OUT the cap !. USE THE 27mm HEX TO *LOOSEN* THE CAP, AND FEEL FREE TO USE THE 3/8 DRIVE TO *TIGHTEN* THE CAP. Not too much,....just 18 ft/lbs to tighten back on. Most oil change places make it TOO TIGHT !!!!!
Peyton Bloom lol cars are engineered differently, you can drive any Toyota straight off the factory line without changing the oil for the 10+ years and it will start and run however it won’t run smooth but you’ll get home. The Audi’s are very very finakey where you have to change it based on how you drive. Even if the car sits you still have to change that oil. The point is cars are different.
You don't know why?! Toyota was trying to do the right thing but it seems there are a lot of old dogs out there that can't be taught a new trick. Why Cartridge Filters ruclips.net/video/qH79uDR2YFM/видео.html
You don't ...you need the tool. Don't break it....use the 27mm hex to rmove the cap....and feel free to use the 3/8 drive ( smaller, in the center) to tighten. If you try to loosen it with the 3/8, you can strip out the drive or break the tool, because these caps are often on TIGHT.
CAUTION !!!...... the oil cap "tool" to take the cap off....has a center 3/8" recess for a 3/8 drive....AND it has a 24 or 27 mm hex around that. These are on SO TIGHT (regardless if done by Toyota or the oil-change monkeys), that if you use the smaller 3/8 drive to LOOSEN the cap, you can BREAK or STRIP OUT the cap !. USE THE 27mm HEX TO LOOSEN THE CAP, AND FEEL FREE TO USE THE 3/8 DRIVE TO TIGHTEN THE CAP. Not too much,....just 18 ft/lbs to tighten back on. Most oil change places make it TOO TIGHT !!!!!
you should put some oil into filter before you install the filter in, so when you start the engine the oil go to lubricate the engine right away, if you don't the oil will go to the filter first and the engine will be dry without oil to lubricate.
Because the gentleman in the video did, he said it releases the vacuum in the housing and allows it to drain. Do u know where to get one, that was the original question
I was *literally* just getting ready to start editing down my video for a DIY oil job on a 2008 Sienna, but I'm not sure I'll bother. This is a clean, concise how-to and I'm not sure I could improve on it, although I've always loaded up 6 quarts first, not five, and leveled up from there. I can't stand that secondary oil breather on the filter cannister lid; I see zero point in it. The first time I tried to remove it separately, it just rotated the main cap off. I now just use the removal tool to rotate off the main cap, get ready for the extra glurb of oil, and call it good.
@@patrickmurphy9266......everyone is going to this stupid design. It's more "eco-friendly" by throwing out only the paper element, and not the metal can (too).
Personally, when I do an oil change, I make my first quart Marvels Mystery Oil (MMO) then add the remaining 4 quarts and then check my dipstick. MMO will give you up to 10k between oil changes.
What Toyota engineer decided to use this type of oil filter changing process? I prefer the spin on oil filter. Spin off old oil filter. Clean around oil filter area. Spin on new filter. Done in less than 1 minute. This process makes you remove a drain plug from the oil filter housing, insert the special plastic drain thingamajig, drain the oil from the housing, remove the thingamajig, get another tool to remove the housing, remove the dirty filter, remove the two O-rings, clean the housing, replace the two O-rings.....what a big Toyota joke!!!!! This is the only reason why I'm not buying a Toyota. Too many areas for an oil leak happening.
Fidel Damasco i know i hate the toyota design. Just today i was changing the oil and filter and ended up breaking the filter wrench where the socket wrench fits in. It was on so tight. Guessing the heat of the engine and the aluminum canister seized up. Never had an old style filter get so tight.
@@transit1999 I thought of replacing my plastic one with aluminum but decided not to when I heard of the problems some folks were having with galling of aluminum screwed into aluminum.
@@stevensevek6151 .....very little chance of that if you have any "feel" at all to assure your're not cross-threading...and with all that oil in the vicinity coating everything.
Nice video...you need a a 7th quart. Oil capacity is 6.4qts. I don’t know why Toyota did it that way but that’s what my ‘12 Sienna takes...major props on using a Toyota filter. Don’t use anything else. Same goes for spark plugs. Use oem. You don’t want to do that job twice...
Bob: you have a way of articulating this process just right! My hats off to you and thanks for the time and effort to this rather simple process. I have a 2015 Sienna LE and I feel much more confident doing the deed. out of all the others, this one gets my thumbs up and a click to subscribe
Don
1:37 finally someone knows how to use the breather.
I don't take the small cap off ever and don't use the Breather obviously. Just crack it and let it drain into your pan. When you're finished take $0.10 worth of carb cleaner and spray off the housing. Then you don't have to change that small seal and risk it leaking. Just my take on it.
Breather? Oh, you mean the drain attachment for the oil filter housing.
The instructions on the Toyota oil filter box calls it a "service pipe".
That’s what that’s for? Damn. What if I put the smaller washer inside the filter?... anyone know
This is the Best Toyota oil change video, Num #1. You included the pressure on the Torque. Thank you!!!!
I've watched a lot of Utubes on the Sienna oil change and this one is GOOD!
I was gonna say the same. the right way including torque lbs. !
I was gonna say the same too! So easy to follow clear and all the details 👍👍👍
Well done Bob, I would do virtually the same as U do, as I did on my Corolla's. That is what I call TRUE quality oil change. VERY good job indeed! Ca, USA.
Nice - the only youtube video that is complete in all the steps for changing oil/filter for sienna. Thanks. I just changed oil/filter on my sienna 2017. That plastic thing to remove oil fromthe filter was difficult to get in.
You didn't pre lube the filter?
man you changed the oil like a boss thanks!
very well done beautiful Video i give it 98 Rotten Tomatoes
THE BEST Sienna oil change ANY viewer SHOULD appreciate indeed! WITH Bob's permission, I would like to share few tips of my own in addition to rephrase, reminder never hurts anyone indeed (!), Bob's illutrations. FIRST OFF, {some oil WILL BE inside oil chamber n NEED some times to go down to oil engine pan, SO, U cannot really measure HOW MUCH oil is in oil pan n personally, I wait 20-30-minutes after warm up engine and then measure oil level!). WE MUST NOT forget "19.5-torque-4-MAIN-oil-HOUSING-assembly-N-9.5-torque-in-the-MIDDLE-part-of-main-oil-assemly-that is "CRITICALLY" important NOT to drip of oil come out OVER the 9k-10k miles depending conditions we drive! NOW, many of us, lots of people, FORGET to "loosen oil cap and oil dip stick way up IN ORDER TO LOOSEN or to REMOVE pressue inside of oil champer!! WE SHOULD MAKE SURE loosen oil inserting cap n oil dip stick PULL ON to remove pressure inside engine-chamber-N-via oil pan and WILL help "drain oil faster N better even common sense should tell U that"!! AND NOW, as it can be seen Bob's excellent demonstration, which I agree fully, "proper way" chaning Siennia oil change (or any of oil that is filter based), is to MAKING sure DRAIN middle oil filter-housing-by-loosening middle part of the MAIN oil housing assembly by using ratch N using 3/8 size wranch extention rod as Bob showed to us WHICH will make quite eaiser to loosen the MAIN-oil-assembly housing assembly due to "removing-the-most of pressure that has been build up inside of MAIN oil housing assembly that will come off much easier!" PLUS making sure 2-replace-{EVERY-TIME-SHOULD-indeed-), paper-gasket-every-time-(!)-to prevent oil leak is absolutly neceassary! APPLY clean oil rather than using dirty oil to lubriate two rubber oil gaskets (small N large) rings SHOULD be way 2-go!! WHY use dirty oil to lubriate rubber gaskets before inserting rubber gaskets to small-N-large-OIL-rubber-gaskets? USE clearn oil to lubricate seem common sense 2-me! Before reassembing or inserting the MAIN-OIL-ASSEMBLY-UNIT-2-make SURE wipe-out-all that dirty oil "residues-surrounding oil drain plug itself N around oil drain hole" BEFORE inserting back regular MAIN-oil-assembly-housing-N-of course even oil drain gasket area BEFORE retightening oil drain gasket with BRAND-NEW-PAPER-GASKET-(every time) OIL DRAIN 14-MM bolt. *Tip is using codeless ratch to loosen MOST of oil drain (I have cordless ratchers N I do as I said suggested here!), bolt BEFORE finally loosen to let out oil and size we all know is 14-mm (I have been told virtually ALL Toyota oil drain plug is 14-mm-that makes whole of sense from economic sense by seperate size to manefacture that takes extra machine cuts and all that rest?). So, comforting to know all Toyota drain plug size is 14-mm. *I have been using 14-mm-craftman-made-wrench-all-these-years-N-NEVER-rust (!)-I-found-the best-(cheap immitate one's do rust after a while-but NOT craftman wrench after all these years! Naturally I have NEVER been nor any friend works for Sears, before n now. SO, I personally recommend to get quality wrench made with quality metal LIKE Craftman-wrench or Sears partner LIKE Dodge's partner Cummins supply due to "lasting durability N quality N dependerability of Cumins, now Cummins engine maker does supply its bread n butter Cummin engine to Ford 550 Truck. I have just made another example to strengthing m point of LASTING dependerablity tool like Craftman tool-N-after all Craftman tool has life time warranty is for one thing but NEVER have to go Sears to replace cz the Craftma tool I have NEVER built up rust, except plastic part of digital tork wrench, not recommend that Craftman digital tork wrench but I do recommend either price Precision (I just purchased as sucker for tools!) and or more affortable LEVON TORK WRENCHES BOTH 3/8 N 1/2 N like very much I purchased BOTH aformentioend brand, again, LEXIVON tork wrenchs N FLIP LUG NUT 1/2 drive impact socket set as well. I am for one VERY GLAD that, thank got, Sears or Craftman still survive thanks to new Searrs owner who purchased Sears during chaper 13 bankrupicy who used to be Sears executive according the aritlce I have read on the article that is public fact indeed! This much I can share anyone care to read 4 one time. USA
that was a good step by step teacher ,which seams very easy to follow . One more practicing lesson and I am on my way.
Good pace for us noobs. Thanks for posting!
This was video is the best I have seen. Very informative.
That "proper" step by first spinning-off the center small portion of the oil cap...using the goofy drain valve, etc....all can be skipped. It's gonna be messy regardess....just drain via the normal drain opening a bit longer....and then just spin off the oil cap.....use nitrile gloves.....oil will spill but there is no "trapped air" to release....what you did the "proper" way just drains the extra bit of oil from the oil cap. If it was a spin-on filter......you'd be facing the same thing.....the filter having some amount of oil in it . Eliminates a step and another leak source by opening another area, needing another O-ring, etc...leave it alone. CAUTION !!!.... CAUTION !!!...... the oil cap "tool" to take the cap off....has a center 3/8" recess for a 3/8 drive....AND it has a 24 or 27 mm hex around that. These are on SO TIGHT (regardless if done by Toyota or the oil-change monkeys), that if you use the smaller 3/8 drive to LOOSEN the cap, you can BREAK or STRIP OUT the cap !. USE THE 27mm HEX TO LOOSEN THE CAP, AND FEEL FREE TO USE THE 3/8 DRIVE TO TIGHTEN THE CAP. Not too much,....just 18 ft/lbs to tighten back on. Most oil change places make it TOO TIGHT !!!!!
This is the BEST video on how to change your oil on a 2017 Toyota Sienna! Good job!
where did you get the oil filter wrench? nice vid , thumbs up
U can get from Sears or Craftman or Amazon or Walt mart every where or price Toyota dealer, but paper oil drain gasket SHOULD get OEM, I just go Toyota dealer NOT to take chance on online sometimes, lots of times, different than what I saw on computer and return headache all that! Besides it is below two buck for one gasket n know U will have 100 percent OEM part!
@@rubiconklbrutorowman7577 bought a motivx mx 2321 strong well built, worked great. 5 star reviews
Things would have been so, Easy if toyota had normal oil filter 🛢, One without rings and bare filter, Though video is good.
I don't understand why you left it at least a ½ quart low?
Excellent video, man -- thank you so much!
The breather at 1:40 is plastic and can get brittle in winter. If you search, several folks sell a $15 reusable metal tool to make this job a lot more pleasant.
Is there really pressure inside an oil filter housing when the engine (& oil pump) is not running)? I don't think so.
No...the smaller center cap just give you a chance to drain a small extra volume of oil without a big "glug" spilling out otherwise. It will spill anyway so you don't need to do the center cap stuff.
Nice presentation Bob, thanks man!
Good video thanks
wonderful video. a little time with all information how to do oil change diy. thank you for your video. it's good educated video.
Could you please show good spot for lift the sienna Van by jack floors
Just changed the oil on my wife's Sienna for the first time this past weekend after watching this video. Well done! Thank you for the great instructions and for breaking this down so well.
What's the filter removal tool size ?
What's the filter removal tools size please 2011 sienna
Finally!!! Someone who knows what he's talking about :-) Yay, thank you! I especially liked the details on torque wrench settings and how to reset the maintenance light... You are now my personal hero!
do you think it will work on my 2018 toyota siena base model? i tried the other videos how to reset but no luck. i just change the oil even though no maintenance light on the dash.
Nice diy funnel!
Thats what that stupid plastic thing is for.....thanks!!
its stupid to have to do all that . cant blame people for not doing it
I don't think it is spring loaded it's the o ring giving resistance
I think your jeans inthe dryer are done lol
Nice video... hope to make more video like flashing brake fluids and coolant, tanks
Bro I have the exact same tool but I broke that sum bitch trying to remove that cartridge wtf did I do wrong ? I was going the same direction and everything???
CAUTION !!!...... the oil cap "tool" to take the cap off....has a center 3/8" recess for a 3/8 drive....AND it has a 24 or 27 mm hex around that. These are on SO TIGHT (regardless if done by Toyota or the oil-change monkeys), that if you use the smaller 3/8 drive to LOOSEN the cap, you can BREAK or STRIP OUT the cap !. USE THE 27mm HEX TO LOOSEN THE CAP, AND FEEL FREE TO USE THE 3/8 DRIVE TO TIGHTEN THE CAP. Not too much,....just 18 ft/lbs to tighten back on. Most oil change places make it TOO TIGHT !!!!!
Thank you for this great video👍🏼 now off to buy the tools 👍🏼😘
Thanks, I like the better funnel trick
What is the filter removal tool ?
Finally a person I can relate to. Great video.
Sienna takes 6.4 quarts of oil
Use a 4 cup container. Convert the quart to liters or millimeters. Buy 2 5quarts jug. save the remaining one for next oil change.
Yeah, I wonder why he didn't fill it?
Thanks.
Best video changing oil
Thank you A++++
Thanks sir 👍👍👍
Excellent video
This needs 6.5qts
where do you get that special housing tool from?
The one I like is here...
www.amazon.com/dp/B00XTAGHU0/ref=sspa_dk_hqp_detail_aax_0?psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzVlZCV0tMOUhHQ0JMJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODEzNjQ0MU4xTElaVjhISFJKUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTQwMDE1MjFQWjRIR1lHOFZOUCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2hxcF9zaGFyZWQmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
Great void, thanks Mr Bob
And also, a great video. 😉
Excellent video, Please advise best oil, best oil filter, where did you bought the tools?
I don’t have oil filter cover opener and torque wrench.
I have sienna 2007, with 195100 miles.
Please guide
Khawar Syed Mobil 1 in the weight prescribed for your van. Toyota oil filter, can be had for $6 at the dealer but I order mine online for about the same price. The tool can be found all over amazon...
I've been using Pennzoil Full Synthetic in our 2008 Sienna for years now and I've been more than pleased with it. The tools are readily available at auto shops or Toyota directly, although they are a bit higher. The Mobil 1 branded filter is made exceptionally well.
I use the Motivx # 2320 oil filter cap wrench along with Super Tech 0W-20 full synthetic oil and either a K&N, OEM Toyota or Super Tech oil filter. I change mine every 5,000 miles. The adapter that comes with the Super Tech filter to drain the oil from the oil filter is threaded instead of snapping in. Some find that style easier to use and less messy.
How do you change your spark plugs on a 2009 Sienna
David Garcia four cylinder is easy, v6 not so much. There’s a good video for the v6 here on RUclips...just search for it...and go to Toyota for the plugs...
Thank you!
Awesome. Thanks
Thank you for the video...I watched it after i changed oil...and they did a mistake for me...the small rubber thing they put it from the opposite side from where you put it...meaning they put the small rubber ring then the filter above...will that cause a problem? I can ignore it till the next time I change oil and filter?? Thank you
Great Video
Large Channel Locks wil work fine,if like me & can't afford to buy extra tools,when can get by without it...
Attention to detail! Thanks for the help. Got 08 Sienna couple of weeks ago for my brother in law and will drop it off to New Mexico from SoCal next month so this video really helps me what to buy and do on my own.
You showed that plastic piece popping in but mine had threads, screwed it in and drained just fine.
Hey, what tools are you using to get the oil filter housing out? Can you give me the size and name?
lavie maintenant you can buy at any dealer or auto parts store, just ask for oil filter wrench for Toyota
I recommend the Motivx # 2320. It is one of the more expensive available but has the best reviews on Amazon.
Technically it does not remove the housing. It removes the oil filter cap assembly and is called an oil filter cap wrench.
@@stevensevek6151 ....CAUTION !!!, especially if you use a cheaper tool...... the oil cap "tool" to take the cap off....has a center 3/8" recess for a 3/8 drive....AND it has a 24 or 27 mm hex around that. These are on SO TIGHT (regardless if done by Toyota or the oil-change monkeys), that if you use the smaller 3/8 drive to LOOSEN the cap, you can BREAK or STRIP OUT the cap !. USE THE 27mm HEX TO LOOSEN THE CAP, AND FEEL FREE TO USE THE 3/8 DRIVE TO TIGHTEN THE CAP. Not too much,....just 18 ft/lbs to tighten back on. Most oil change places make it TOO TIGHT !!!!!
Would be better if you also mention where you got the seals and do you have to replaced every oil changed.
Where you get the gloves from? Amazing video man keep it up
Amazon, of course.
Or sometimes, my family Doctor 'donates' to my DIY car stuff. Seriously, when I'm in there getting my yearly physical after he's done 'tossing my salad while I cough', I usually ask him for a few pair. He always gives me about 5 pair. LOL.
@@andyroid5028 completely forgot about this comment. I go to Costco bc of covid and quality.
You did not show the oil filter cannister actually break loose with the ratchet. Did you have to get a breaker bar or impact wrench? These are commonly over torqued.
CAUTION !!!...... the oil cap "tool" to take the cap off....has a center 3/8" recess for a 3/8 drive....AND it has a 24 or 27 mm hex around that. These are on SO TIGHT (regardless if done by Toyota or the oil-change monkeys), that if you use the smaller 3/8 drive to LOOSEN the cap, you can BREAK or STRIP OUT the cap !. USE THE 27mm HEX TO *LOOSEN* THE CAP, AND FEEL FREE TO USE THE 3/8 DRIVE TO *TIGHTEN* THE CAP. Not too much,....just 18 ft/lbs to tighten back on. Most oil change places make it TOO TIGHT !!!!!
You put 5w30? I thought it needs 0w20?
Where can you get that plastic bleeder tool?
What about the safety clip? Was it not in the way?
Does anyone know why does Toyota use this type of oil filter instead of the spin-on canister type?
Everyone is going to this stupid design. It's more "eco-friendly" by throwing out only the paper element, and not the metal can (too).
mi camioneta no lubrica aceite motor sera la bomba
THANK YOU FOR THE POUNDAGE 19.5 AND 9.5. NO ONE ELSE GAVE BOTH POUNDAGES.
The cap actually has 25 NM ( Newton-Meters) printed on it.....translates to 18.5 ft/lbs.
How unbelievably stupid. My audi doesn't even require a special tool to take the oil filter out what's the point of designing it this way?
Peyton Bloom lol cars are engineered differently, you can drive any Toyota straight off the factory line without changing the oil for the 10+ years and it will start and run however it won’t run smooth but you’ll get home. The Audi’s are very very finakey where you have to change it based on how you drive. Even if the car sits you still have to change that oil. The point is cars are different.
I forget that there's only one kind of car in this world!! Ur kind
You don't know why?! Toyota was trying to do the right thing but it seems there are a lot of old dogs out there that can't be taught a new trick.
Why Cartridge Filters
ruclips.net/video/qH79uDR2YFM/видео.html
How do you remove the filter housing without that cap tool?
You don't ...you need the tool. Don't break it....use the 27mm hex to rmove the cap....and feel free to use the 3/8 drive ( smaller, in the center) to tighten. If you try to loosen it with the 3/8, you can strip out the drive or break the tool, because these caps are often on TIGHT.
Good video. Thank you.
Thank you mr pham
Hoq did you loosen that nut? mine is super tight I tried spraying it liquid wrench still doesn't come off.
if its not leaking it should be fine. My old tundra was stuck on as well, i couldnt get it off. so i had to buy new cap from the dealer.
That's what happens when they are over-torqued.
CAUTION !!!...... the oil cap "tool" to take the cap off....has a center 3/8" recess for a 3/8 drive....AND it has a 24 or 27 mm hex around that. These are on SO TIGHT (regardless if done by Toyota or the oil-change monkeys), that if you use the smaller 3/8 drive to LOOSEN the cap, you can BREAK or STRIP OUT the cap !. USE THE 27mm HEX TO LOOSEN THE CAP, AND FEEL FREE TO USE THE 3/8 DRIVE TO TIGHTEN THE CAP. Not too much,....just 18 ft/lbs to tighten back on. Most oil change places make it TOO TIGHT !!!!!
Dude you are showing how the secret done ;) nice video showing detail ;)
学习了
you should put some oil into filter before you install the filter in, so when you start the engine the oil go to lubricate the engine right away, if you don't the oil will go to the filter first and the engine will be dry without oil to lubricate.
Where do you get the breather and oil filter wrench?
I know of no breather...?
Did u not watch the video? He uses a breather to empty the oil filter housing first before removal
@@squeaky61
It's simply a disposable plastic drain. Why do you call it a breather?
Because the gentleman in the video did, he said it releases the vacuum in the housing and allows it to drain. Do u know where to get one, that was the original question
@@squeaky61
There is oil in the housing. That hardly qualifies as a vacuum. The drain piece comes with a new oil filter.
The oil plug torque is 40 N*m (408 kgf*cm, 30 ft.lbf).
And...
Oil filter cap torque: 25 (±5) N•m/18 (±3.5) ft lbs
Oil filter drain plug torque: 13 N•m/10 ft lbs
NICE AND SNUG IS ALL YOU NEED
I was *literally* just getting ready to start editing down my video for a DIY oil job on a 2008 Sienna, but I'm not sure I'll bother. This is a clean, concise how-to and I'm not sure I could improve on it, although I've always loaded up 6 quarts first, not five, and leveled up from there.
I can't stand that secondary oil breather on the filter cannister lid; I see zero point in it. The first time I tried to remove it separately, it just rotated the main cap off. I now just use the removal tool to rotate off the main cap, get ready for the extra glurb of oil, and call it good.
Why dìd toyota not use a spin on filter .
@@patrickmurphy9266......everyone is going to this stupid design. It's more "eco-friendly" by throwing out only the paper element, and not the metal can (too).
It’s just simple oil filter but Toyota makes it like rocket machine. Bye bye Toyota brands.
Are you kidding? Sorry, it's not rocket science.
All newer cars are going to this design....it's more "Eco" friendly by disposing only paper....not paper with a steel casing. Don't blame Toyota only.
Personally, when I do an oil change, I make my first quart Marvels Mystery Oil (MMO) then add the remaining 4 quarts and then check my dipstick. MMO will give you up to 10k between oil changes.
u da dude dawg shit
What Toyota engineer decided to use this type of oil filter changing process? I prefer the spin on oil filter. Spin off old oil filter. Clean around oil filter area. Spin on new filter. Done in less than 1 minute. This process makes you remove a drain plug from the oil filter housing, insert the special plastic drain thingamajig, drain the oil from the housing, remove the thingamajig, get another tool to remove the housing, remove the dirty filter, remove the two O-rings, clean the housing, replace the two O-rings.....what a big Toyota joke!!!!! This is the only reason why I'm not buying a Toyota. Too many areas for an oil leak happening.
Fidel Damasco i know i hate the toyota design. Just today i was changing the oil and filter and ended up breaking the filter wrench where the socket wrench fits in. It was on so tight. Guessing the heat of the engine and the aluminum canister seized up. Never had an old style filter get so tight.
And it all takes about five minutes more...!
@@transit1999
And last time it was changed it was only put on at 18 ft.lbs. as instructed?
@@transit1999 I thought of replacing my plastic one with aluminum but decided not to when I heard of the problems some folks were having with galling of aluminum screwed into aluminum.
@@stevensevek6151 .....very little chance of that if you have any "feel" at all to assure your're not cross-threading...and with all that oil in the vicinity coating everything.