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@@KossRentyuk Some Amazon " Toyota : oil filters are counterfeit and not that Toyota filters are sturdy but these fakes fall apart. Besides the ones at the Dealership don't cost much more than the ones from 'Fram, etc.
I really don’t understand why everyone doesn’t like these designs. I didn’t particularly like it at first but I have had no issues with it once I learned how to do it. I do my own oil changes so I’ve never had the issue with it being on too tight. That’s what you get for having other people do your oil changes for you. Considering the fact that there’s no metal going into landfills I have to think this is is much more environmentally sound than the old all in one filters. What’s the major beef with this design?
@@condor5635 I also don't understand why people complain these filters, some people just have to complain I guess. I did my first one and thought it worked well. I put a length of hose on the nipple to direct the oil to the drain pan. I found this design less messy than the spin on filters. If people prefer to make a bigger mess and not mess with the small O ring, they can just remove the whole thing and replace the filter without removing the plug. That's how most dealers do it because it's faster.
@@condor5635 My issue is that you are required to purchase a special tool to be able to do this, I would have no problem with the design if they just made it where you could put a 1" socket on the end to screw the cap off, I am a volvo penta marine mechanic and they use a similar design but no special tool required, just a 1" socket or adjustable wrench
@@tjsoutherbassin - You had to get special tools for the old design all in one filters as well - I’ve got two or three in my tool chest That I can throw away now because none of my cars take them anymore. How is that any different than this? I agree it would’ve been nice to have a universal socket head on there kind of like Fram did on some of their all-in-one filters I believe
I’m changing my oil for the first time, and was so confused. This step-by-step tutorial was very educational, I get it now. Thank you so much for making this video!
Gonna give this a try on the venza tomorrow morning. I got all the right tools, oil and filters. I even did a pre-inspection yesterday just to make sure I had everything. Thanks for getting straight to the point and covering all the steps. I'll let you know how it goes
Great advise on servicing this type of oil filter. The key is not to over tighten the the drain cap or filter body. Just a little past snug. O-rings do not need to be "over tight " to form a good seal. I have noticed lots of mechanics and Toyota service centers seem to over tighten this assembly. Main reason I change my own oil on my 2017 Toyota Tacoma. I will pass this video onto my brother, he drives a 2015 4Runner.
I cant get mine off. Used 3ft of leverage and started to hear a cracking so I stopped. Replacing with a metal aftermarket one with a purchased oil change for next time.
Mine has the metal housing so the only o ring I have to replace is around the outside of the filter. Nothing to drain it though so there's always a mess 😅
If you have trouble seating the filter assy just screw counter clockwise.. You will feel it will fall into the correct position.. The just turn clockwise and tighten. Also you can install the smaller o-ring & cover before you install the filter housing..
Nicely done. I have started putting a short piece of 3/8" clear hose into the filter drain tube. The OD is just right to fit in it and seal pretty well. Then when it drains it runs through the tube to wherever I put it instead of the palm of my hand. :) MotiveXTools has a kit with a nice cap for removing the housing and a metal tool and hose that screws into that opening.
I recently did this and your video shows it pretty much how it is done, so thank you! A couple of things, I acutally just used that plastic tool that it came with to get the O-rings off. Also, my filter was on so tight that I ended up using the strength of my foot to get it off (just like loosening lugs from a tire), not sure why it was on that tight (I had just bought the car used). Make sure to have that extention if you need to do this.
The dealership did the "free" oil changes on my tundra at 10k and 20k as set by their schedule. Then at 25k they notified to come in for a paid oil change. I decided to do it myself. I used my legs like a weight lifter's jerk and the canister would not budge. Even after tapping, wd40 and 2 hrs of trying. By the look of things I don't think the dealership ever removed the skid plate or the oil filter. I hired a trust worthy mechanic who has a big ass 30" torque wrench and he finally got it to turn. I wont be going back to that dealership.
@@yellostallion I had the first 8 oil changes done by the dealership because they were included. The last 3 or 4 I paid them to do. I looked carefully at the invoice on the last oil change because it cost almost double what it did before and noticed a charge of $40 for an Oil Filter Assembly" so I looked at the previous paid oil change bills and noticed that one other time they charged for the same thing. I'm glad that the change I just did myself. I could loosen the filter housing easily but I tried loosening it before doing any other oil draining because it is easy to crack the housing if you have to apply too much torque to get a seized one off.
You Sir- deserve the Nobel peace price!! I’m so mad now learning that I’ve been doing oil changes wrong for the last 14 years only to discover where the small o ring goes to and the the stupid plastic piece that comes with the filter. I seriously never knew! Thank you.
Good advice. I just did the oil change on my new Tacoma at 4500 miles yesterday. One thing I did different was put the drain cover back on the canaster off the truck. That seemed logical to me. I also use the MotiveX cap wrench. It's got cut outs to grip the little fingers on the canaster as well as the flutes. Feel like it holds more steady than the cap wrenches I used and threw out in the past. It's a good tool I'd recommend it.
That Motivx wrench has been updated with a new improved version. There are no slots in the new one but it is more precisely made at 64.3 mm. It fits snugly on all Toyota cartridge style oil filter caps gripping each of the fourteen flutes and will even work on some spin-on filters. I used mine for the first time this morning. This one will absolutely not crack the ears on the plastic oil filter caps and provides superior grip by gripping all 14 flutes. The only thing I wish they did is make the top so that it would take the same 27 mm socket but no, the new one takes a 24 mm socket.
@@MrMikey1273 Yes that was at least part of the problem. I think the ears were taking all the load and the flutes weren't engaging at all most if the time. When I questioned Motivx about why they redesigned their wrench, the following was their reply... "Here's the differences between the newer and older versions: The first is that the square 3/8" drive opening of the old design tended to deform and potentially strip out over time, especially with overtightened oil filter caps. This is because it is a one piece design made entirely from 6061 Aluminum. Our new design uses two types of aluminum, 6061 for the body (the grey part) and 7075 for the drive hub (the red part). 7075 aluminum, which is typically used in the aircraft industry and has properties similar to steel, will not yield (deform) when the ratchet is rotated even with the tightest oil filter caps completely eliminating this issue. The second is that our new design is manufactured using precision CNC machining as opposed to forging (or casting like most others). While casting or forging is less expensive to produce, the tolerance is much larger causing the need for the wrenches to be oversized. This creates a loose fit which can cause rounding of the cap. To combat this, the tabs below the fluted portion of the cap are used to help prevent the wrench from over-rotating and rounding. The downside to this is that sometimes those tabs can break off and cause an oil leak which we have seen many times. With our new design combine with CNC machining, we can maintain the size of the wrench to .001" or better which is a MUCH tighter tolerance than casting or forging. We have sized them to account for thermal expansion of the cap (which is significant) and they have an ideal fit when the engine is still warm. They will be slightly loose when used on a cold engine but not enough to slip as we have tested this extensively. Lastly, because there is a difference in the lower portion of the oil filter caps the older version of the tool would only work on the 2.0L - 5.7L engines. The new version also works for the 1.8L cartridge style as well as the two smaller Toyota spin-on style oil filters. The new version is also made in the USA whereas the older one was made in Taiwan however we were able to keep the price the same. -MotivXSupport"
Just finished doing my first oil change on our 2017 Highlander. The first 4 years the oil services were covered and even after that the cost of an oil change was barely more that if I would have done it myself so I went to the dealership. That was until a couple oil changes ago when the cost suddenly doubled. Not only that but I have always kept my invoices for any services and I noticed an almost $40 ( Canadian dollars ) for an " oil kit" so 'i checked a couple oil changes ago and there was another charge of $40 for an "oil kit assembly".which I believe is a replacement plastic oil filter housing. I have to look into this further but this charge was never on the invoice for any of the other oil changes. So back to me doing my own oil change ( I've always changed my own oil in the past 30+ years, so I'm no rookie ). I decided to check if the oil canister could be could be removed first before draining any oil so I loosened the housing drain plug a quarter turn and then tried the tool I bought for removing the canister just to se if it would turn at all. It did so I left it and completed taking the drain plug on the plastic housing off and using the filter supplied tool to drain the housing. Then I drained the oil pan where I noticed there was no washer / gasket on the drain plug. Got stuck to the pan and it didn't fall off the plug when ||I removed it meaning the dealership mechanic never put one on. Th rubber O ring that fits around the oil filter housing can also be removed without using a pick all you have to do is put you thumb on one side and your index finger on the other side. push in and push towards the other side and the O ring will bulge out enough for you to grab it and lift it off. When you latter add the oil into the funnel, hold the bottle so that the opening on the bottle is on top ( the opposite of the way you would traditionally pour the bottle ) this will keep the oil from " surging out" of the bottle and it pours out smoothly. It's not a big deal but it prevents possible splillige and also works with windshield washer fluid.
Good, simple video. Good job. I recommend re-install canister snug, then torque to OEM spec 18 ft/lbs. Install Cap snug, then torque to OEM spec 9 ft/lbs. Over-tight causes micro-cracks in plastic housing, and then nothing but trouble. If you crack housing, replace with cast aluminum housing.
mary sayre, makes you wonder why Toyota doesn’t use the cast aluminum housing as OEM equipment? For the volumes of vehicles they put the cartridge in, I would pay an extra $15 for a durable part. Maybe that’s just me. 🤷🏻♂️
I believe some Lexus come with an aluminum one. If you go to a Toyota dealer and hit the parts guy up they will square you away. Be away if you don’t use a torque wrench it even easier to oven tighten it.
Your video helped me to understand why my co worker mechanic was afraid to remove plastic cover. He not have proper tools and just did synthetic oil change but not filter
Awesome short simple instructions. Thank you. I did put a paper towel in the little drain tube until I got in in. Keep it oil free to I was ready to pull the towel out.
You can get a cast aluminum filter housing to replace the plastic one . Also to clean the filter housing completely . Lube all around the o rings , side and bottom before installing . As I stopped using the plastic tube on the bottom . Because of course it presses against the spring to open and allow oil to drain . I would rather not weaken the spring overtime . And just take the whole thing off , messier of course . Tip it over to drain the oil out . Then take off the bottom , metal cap . Replace all o-rings with the new ones that come with the filter . I would also use a new drain plug gasket , each time too . I always retightened the filter housing by hand and never had any issues .
Only problem with that is you have no leverage to get the metal ring off and I'd rather not put any undue stress on the plastic housing. Basically, I take the metal ring off while on the car; it's much easier. You can then remove the plastic housing if you choose too.
thanks. Performed my first Toyota oil change yesterday. Tightened the cannister all the way (to a stop) by hand. However, was not able to budge it any tighter, with the filter wrench & socket combination. I'm hoping it's sufficiently secure, and wouldn't want to sabotage an engine with only 25k miles due to massive oil loss. Do you think I'm ok?
I appreciate this video. I've been looking at the plastic drainer piece for about 20 mins trying to figure out how it fits on. I've already pulled the oil filter out. I had the drain pan ready so no mess.
I need to do my 2011 Camry for the first time. I hadn't seen this set up before, other videos indicate you don't have to remove that plug at the bottom But it's key to make sure the O-ring goes in the right spot. And also important to find the right special wrench that doesn't break..
This is why I go full synthetic and only use the best filter, so I can only fight that plastic chit every other change. It's actually REALLY nice using the little plastic filter drain tool from the new filter box to drain the oil cause you control the flow, less mess, then pull the drain bolt to finish.
I see so many people struggle with this, but they are really not that difficult if installed/maintained properly. I’m a lube tech for a Woodmans grocery store, and every single time one comes in, I torque it to 25nm after I’m all done. Many times cars will come FROM A DEALERSHIP over tightened. Torque specs are a vital part of the process a lot of people don’t pay enough attention to
Very nice explanation, Thanks for explaining the gaskets ( o rings) some mechanics are too busy to put the new ones in, i see the new ones in the box when disposed of it, and also the oil plastic drain, best tutorial ever 👍
Yes, they are O-rings, not gaskets! Gaskets are flat. O-rings are not flat. Terminology matters. OP could also clean the parts up before putting things back together.
Now that was very productive. Nice and short get right to the point cut out all the fat oil filter cannister removal. Thanks for putting this up. I'm gonna go play with my FJ.
After the oil filter cap bottoms out you're not going to give another quarter turn. Just a tug of maybe ⅛ inch should meet the torque spec of 18 ft.lbs. Snug with a quarter turn more will be way too tight and the oil filter cap and the drainbolt have two different torque specs. The drainbolt should only be 10 ft.lbs. (about half as tight as the oil filter cap).
Some of us who have been around the block a few times add engine oil to the canister with the filter in place. Take your time and add oil little by little to allow the new (dry) filter element to wet out and absorbed as much oil as it is willing to take before installing. This allows oil to pass thru the filter quicker upon start up. I have been doing this for years. OBTW, those black thingeys are O-Rings.
oil doesn't matter. oil comes from oil pickup in pan not the filter. When you fill crankcase with oil it goes to pan where its picked up. always hear this crock over and over. simply no reason to do it unless it makes you feel better
Yeah, I just changed mine today for the first time because I just purchased the car about a month and a half ago. The dealer said they change the oil but I drive the car a lot. It looked clean when I checked it, but I just wanted to make sure I changed it today and yeah, it was kind of a struggle with that oil filter, it shouldn’t be that bad the next time since the dealer changed it, they probably heroed it on even the drain plug was kind of snug. It was on there pretty damn tight.
I own a 13 Camry with that exact oil filter set up, great tutorial. I wish Toyota didn't go an listen to the environmentalists and the accounts and just stuck with the spin on filter that they ended up going back to using anyway. its worked for 70 years don't fix it!
A great additional step is to chuck that plastic canister entirely and install the metal version. $30 well spent today that'll save a lot of hassle in the future when the plastic gets stuck or strips out.
Save yourself the headache of removing the canister insert & drain process and simply remove the entire canister using a 1/2" drive with a 1 1/16th socket ( Or whatever size your canister tool requires)to remove it, and drain it into the oil tray.
Tell me about it!! Changed oil in my Toyota Avensis recently here in Cork,Ireland. Was driving down the motorway afterwards and the low engine oil light came on! I had fitted one of the o rings wrongly on the filter. Then it happened a second time. I had wrongly fitted the second O ring as well. No instructions came with the oil filter,so what do ya expect. Crazy system from Toyota.
Would have loved to see you pre- fill the canister. I’m not here to argue the merit of such - others have tested and proven it beneficial. For those that care, the torque specs are as follows: 30 ft lbs for the drain bolt 18 ft pbs for the canister 9 ft lbs for the canister plug All are easy to over tighten and damage, but all will last forever if they are properly torqued. And FYI you don’t have to use the canister plug/drain/small o ring every time. The Car Care Nut never uses or changes them and they never leak.
5:11 DOUBLE CHECK that the small gasket is still in place on the base of the canister as you set that cap in place. Just had mine drop off on it's own down into the oil drain pan... it just barely has enough of a lip to hold it in place... just happened to notice at the last minute that it had fallen off. VERY EASY TO MISS THAT!!
After having countless issues of missing nuts, bolts, and other small things after servicing, I got sick of taking in my car for maintenance. Started taking it to my family mechanic, and to find out the oil filter was on wayyy tooooo tight.
Ok, update: So I changed the oil in the venza...but not without a major issue. The toyota dealership i was taking it to prior decided to put the oil filter cap on with a godamn impact wrench and "overtightened" it. As I was taking it off with all my might, one of the fins cracked off of the cap...but was seemingly minimal enough, I continued to use it. When I started the car, immediatley looked under the car for leaks...and godammit, oil was shooting from the filter cap like a supersoaker. Needless to say, I replaced that fa33ot plastic cap with an aluminum one. Fit like a glove, cleaned up my mess, did not overthighten, gaskets were lubricated. Mission complete. Thank you
Dang. Well I'm glad you are smart enough to check under the engine after a filter change. You would be surprised how many people call it good and start driving. Well done sir. Without Struggle there is no progress
@@GEARMOAUTO ya thanks. I checked immediatley when i turned the key. I acutally didnt even have to add oil i was so quick. Anyway, thanks for the video...and yes....no struggle, no progress.
We had a disaster today at work trying to remove an OVER-tightened oil canister! (It ended up getting destroyed! By a mechanic, not me.) And, with the UAW strike, we're having trouble getting a new one. lol
They are trying to be environmentally friendly with less waste per oil change. No throw-away oil filter canister. Their PR department doesn’t have to work on these, however.
I'm sure the plastic filter cover would last the life of the vehicle, but I changed mine out for the metal one just to be safe. A part that important on an engine needs to be made of metal IMHO. The key to making the plastic cover last is to not dick it up with a cheap filter wrench. But then again, heat and time can be the enemy to any kind of plastic.
@@NendoCrescendo I went in knowing in advance about the cartridge filter on my 4Runner. It's a pain in the ass to work around. But indeed, it defies all logic why they continue to use the cartridge system over standard filters. The upside is the 1GR-FE 4 liter engine can almost outlast Methuselah. That's a strong hard charging engine to run off such thin oil.
I just drained the oil bigger than shit in my tundra and did not have his part. I had to leave the old filter in there after putting $70 of new synthetic oil. When I maintain a fleet of trucks that I had (F150’s) after sending in hundreds of oil samples I am aware that both oil and oil filters can last up to 20,000 miles. Figuring I changed my oil at 8000 miles I know that I’m good but it’s just a point of it.
Thanks for that! I cant get the very bottom part of the canister (Steel ring that is removed first from the canister) to seperate from the canister, any hints please? Thank you!
Quick question. I see everyone using the plastic piece to drain filter of oil. I’m assuming you can just skip that step and unscrew the whole thing correct? May be a bit more messy but that’s ok. Just looking and the different services of this vehicle as I may be trading in my equinox by the end of the year. Thanks for the video.
I've never changed the smaller gasket or taken out and cleaned the spring mechanism for the bottom part of the canister filter assembly. Is that a big problem? I don't even understand why they have a gasket there and what the purpose of the bottom part of the canister is.
I have this kind of filter on two Toyotas i have i kind of like the drain fitting it beats the heck out of my Subaru legacy getting my arm and exhaust covered in oil pulling out the metal canister filter and having it spill all over everything . I am betting Toyota did it for environmental reasons so you don't have canisters of oil leaking out in garbage dump
Wow, great video and very informative... I just wished I would’ve watched it before taking the whole canister off and getting oil everywhere. What is the point of this canister design?!
Technically the filter cartridge should cost less that the typical spin-on filter...since you're not buying the metal housing. The more I look at it, the more i think this cartridge/canister system is the way to go. Normally I use a metal spike to punch a small hole in my spin-on filters to allow it to drain while still on the vehicle. Nonetheless, due to the anti-drain valve you still get oil spillage as soon as the filter is spun loose. With this no more using a hammer and spike to drain the filter housing...plus I can still pre-fill my new filter with new oil by re-installing the bottom plate cap first, then insert the new filter, pre-fill, and install.
Those canister are just tight when you take them off. They go back on a little easier but to get the o-ring to make contact you really need to give it a good wrench. I miss the gen 4 design with the filter right on top. Gen 5 is a psychological experiment to see how angry you get spilling oil when doing this on the ground. ;-)
My last free oil change from the dealership . WHOEVER ever did the oil changed must have used an impact gun to put the filter center cap and the whole filter housing on. I had to use a breaker bar to get the housing off. I wasn't able to remove the center one loose and off. Sad .
For those people reading this....it seems for various model years of Sienna they used either plastic or aluminum oil filter housings for the 3.5L v6 engine. Can folks here confirm that the 2016 model year used aluminum?.....I think 2017 - 2019 used plastic.
When I changed mine, The whole cannister came off, I didnt realize the center plug was supposed to come out. I replaced the large o ring and couldn't figure out where the small o ring goes. I placed in on the bottom of center part that goes through the filter element.
Just make sure you don't leave the big o-ring off. One of my customers drove up too the shop the other day in his 2011 Tundra V8, he had a christmas tree of lights come on in the cluster, and his engine was rattling and knocking. So he dropped it off for me to diagnose. Long story short, I get the code reader and it's showing about 4 different codes for VVT-i problems. Anyhow, It didn't take long for me to put it on the lift and see a mess of oil everywhere underneath, all coming from the oil filter housing. He got the oil changed the week before at walmart auto center. Anyway, I drained less than a quart and a half from the engine, which takes 8 quarts to fill up. In this case, dude got super lucky that he was close by when the oil got super low, after a proper oil drain and fill and filter, it quieted back down and runs fine again. But since his oil light was on when he came in, he lucked way out.
my mechanic recently did an oil change on my wife's 2018 highlander and the metal screen inside the filter was missing. filter crushed and oil pressure alarms were going off. found metal chips when I removed the housing in the oil and a twisted filter. any idea what kind of damage I'm looking at? engine was knocking and now it's at the dealer...
On mine I found that the metal plug on the bottom is stuck tight on the filter housing . Any idea how I can take that off so I can change the small O-ring ?
Like about 3 others on this list, I would like to know about the filter clip that shows up at about 3 oclock on the canister. Isn't that supposed to keep the filter from unscrewing and was it not working properly in the video?
What's up with that metal tab 3'oclock position (time @0:46)?....it seems to get in the way of removal and replacement each time. Is there some way to move it....seems stuck on there pretty good
It's there to prevent the filter from unscrewing itself in the event it wasn't tightened enough. Meant to engage on the "ears" of the filter housing. Looks like the one on his engine is bent out of the way. I see many cars with them missing entirely. It is not an essential part but I have seen cases where it did work as intended, filter housings on only by a few threads yet still not leaking due to the o-ring.
Of course the spin on oil filter is way better to work with but judging from the video, the cartridge on toyotas isn't that bad. I just find it odd that even newer 1KR-FE motors feature a spin on filter, while the 2NR-FKE has the cartridge.
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Dealer sells it for 5.50.
@@KossRentyuk Some Amazon " Toyota : oil filters are counterfeit and not that Toyota filters are sturdy but these fakes fall apart. Besides the ones at the Dealership don't cost much more than the ones from 'Fram, etc.
I agree
Whoever came up with this design for an oil filer ought to be fired .
Environmental reason in 2009 switched back to cannier 2019?
I really don’t understand why everyone doesn’t like these designs. I didn’t particularly like it at first but I have had no issues with it once I learned how to do it. I do my own oil changes so I’ve never had the issue with it being on too tight. That’s what you get for having other people do your oil changes for you. Considering the fact that there’s no metal going into landfills I have to think this is is much more environmentally sound than the old all in one filters. What’s the major beef with this design?
@@condor5635 I also don't understand why people complain these filters, some people just have to complain I guess. I did my first one and thought it worked well. I put a length of hose on the nipple to direct the oil to the drain pan. I found this design less messy than the spin on filters. If people prefer to make a bigger mess and not mess with the small O ring, they can just remove the whole thing and replace the filter without removing the plug. That's how most dealers do it because it's faster.
@@condor5635 My issue is that you are required to purchase a special tool to be able to do this, I would have no problem with the design if they just made it where you could put a 1" socket on the end to screw the cap off, I am a volvo penta marine mechanic and they use a similar design but no special tool required, just a 1" socket or adjustable wrench
@@tjsoutherbassin - You had to get special tools for the old design all in one filters as well - I’ve got two or three in my tool chest That I can throw away now because none of my cars take them anymore. How is that any different than this? I agree it would’ve been nice to have a universal socket head on there kind of like Fram did on some of their all-in-one filters I believe
Worlds BEST Toyota canister oil filter change video! Gave me all the confidence I needed to get the job done right!
Best video I’ve seen. Clear, and right to the point.
I’m changing my oil for the first time, and was so confused. This step-by-step tutorial was very educational, I get it now. Thank you so much for making this video!
Gonna give this a try on the venza tomorrow morning. I got all the right tools, oil and filters. I even did a pre-inspection yesterday just to make sure I had everything.
Thanks for getting straight to the point and covering all the steps. I'll let you know how it goes
well done, no stupid music, right to the point, no bulls@it. This helps since I just got this truck.
Great advise on servicing this type of oil filter. The key is not to over tighten the the drain cap or filter body. Just a little past snug. O-rings do not need to be "over tight " to form a good seal. I have noticed lots of mechanics and Toyota service centers seem to over tighten this assembly. Main reason I change my own oil on my 2017 Toyota Tacoma. I will pass this video onto my brother, he drives a 2015 4Runner.
I snugged the canister, then half a turn, figured that was good., how about you?
Yeah I would never take mine in to get changed because most places will over tighten the filter on this
I cant get mine off. Used 3ft of leverage and started to hear a cracking so I stopped. Replacing with a metal aftermarket one with a purchased oil change for next time.
Replace the plastic pos housing with a metal one.
Mine has the metal housing so the only o ring I have to replace is around the outside of the filter. Nothing to drain it though so there's always a mess 😅
If you have trouble seating the filter assy just screw counter clockwise.. You will feel it will fall into the correct position.. The just turn clockwise and tighten. Also you can install the smaller o-ring & cover before you install the filter housing..
Nicely done. I have started putting a short piece of 3/8" clear hose into the filter drain tube. The OD is just right to fit in it and seal pretty well. Then when it drains it runs through the tube to wherever I put it instead of the palm of my hand. :) MotiveXTools has a kit with a nice cap for removing the housing and a metal tool and hose that screws into that opening.
Good idea about the hose attachment. I like that
A 5/8" ID hose fits perfectly over the outside of the filter drain tube, and makes draining easy and clean. :👍
This is how it’s supposed to be done per Toyotas tech manual.
So you thought right.
I recently did this and your video shows it pretty much how it is done, so thank you! A couple of things, I acutally just used that plastic tool that it came with to get the O-rings off. Also, my filter was on so tight that I ended up using the strength of my foot to get it off (just like loosening lugs from a tire), not sure why it was on that tight (I had just bought the car used). Make sure to have that extention if you need to do this.
Yeah, the gasket seems to swell up once it's been on there for a while and makes it VERY difficult to loosen the canister later.
The dealership did the "free" oil changes on my tundra at 10k and 20k as set by their schedule. Then at 25k they notified to come in for a paid oil change. I decided to do it myself. I used my legs like a weight lifter's jerk and the canister would not budge. Even after tapping, wd40 and 2 hrs of trying. By the look of things I don't think the dealership ever removed the skid plate or the oil filter. I hired a trust worthy mechanic who has a big ass 30" torque wrench and he finally got it to turn. I wont be going back to that dealership.
@@yellostallion I had the first 8 oil changes done by the dealership because they were included. The last 3 or 4 I paid them to do. I looked carefully at the invoice on the last oil change because it cost almost double what it did before and noticed a charge of $40 for an Oil Filter Assembly" so I looked at the previous paid oil change bills and noticed that one other time they charged for the same thing. I'm glad that the change I just did myself. I could loosen the filter housing easily but I tried loosening it before doing any other oil draining because it is easy to crack the housing if you have to apply too much torque to get a seized one off.
I watch like 7 other video and this video was the one that help me replace my filter thank you .
You Sir- deserve the Nobel peace price!! I’m so mad now learning that I’ve been doing oil changes wrong for the last 14 years only to discover where the small o ring goes to and the the stupid plastic piece that comes with the filter. I seriously never knew! Thank you.
Thank you for a simple video without all of the bull crap exactly what I was looking for
Good advice. I just did the oil change on my new Tacoma at 4500 miles yesterday. One thing I did different was put the drain cover back on the canaster off the truck. That seemed logical to me. I also use the MotiveX cap wrench. It's got cut outs to grip the little fingers on the canaster as well as the flutes. Feel like it holds more steady than the cap wrenches I used and threw out in the past. It's a good tool I'd recommend it.
That Motivx wrench has been updated with a new improved version. There are no slots in the new one but it is more precisely made at 64.3 mm. It fits snugly on all Toyota cartridge style oil filter caps gripping each of the fourteen flutes and will even work on some spin-on filters.
I used mine for the first time this morning. This one will absolutely not crack the ears on the plastic oil filter caps and provides superior grip by gripping all 14 flutes. The only thing I wish they did is make the top so that it would take the same 27 mm socket but no, the new one takes a 24 mm socket.
@@masterofnone1808 interesting that they changed the design. I wonder if it is because people were breaking the ears off their canisters?
@@MrMikey1273
Yes that was at least part of the problem. I think the ears were taking all the load and the flutes weren't engaging at all most if the time.
When I questioned Motivx about why they redesigned their wrench, the following was their reply...
"Here's the differences between the newer and older versions:
The first is that the square 3/8" drive opening of the old design tended to deform and potentially strip out over time, especially with overtightened oil filter caps. This is because it is a one piece design made entirely from 6061 Aluminum. Our new design uses two types of aluminum, 6061 for the body (the grey part) and 7075 for the drive hub (the red part). 7075 aluminum, which is typically used in the aircraft industry and has properties similar to steel, will not yield (deform) when the ratchet is rotated even with the tightest oil filter caps completely eliminating this issue.
The second is that our new design is manufactured using precision CNC machining as opposed to forging (or casting like most others). While casting or forging is less expensive to produce, the tolerance is much larger causing the need for the wrenches to be oversized. This creates a loose fit which can cause rounding of the cap. To combat this, the tabs below the fluted portion of the cap are used to help prevent the wrench from over-rotating and rounding. The downside to this is that sometimes those tabs can break off and cause an oil leak which we have seen many times.
With our new design combine with CNC machining, we can maintain the size of the wrench to .001" or better which is a MUCH tighter tolerance than casting or forging. We have sized them to account for thermal expansion of the cap (which is significant) and they have an ideal fit when the engine is still warm. They will be slightly loose when used on a cold engine but not enough to slip as we have tested this extensively.
Lastly, because there is a difference in the lower portion of the oil filter caps the older version of the tool would only work on the 2.0L - 5.7L engines. The new version also works for the 1.8L cartridge style as well as the two smaller Toyota spin-on style oil filters. The new version is also made in the USA whereas the older one was made in Taiwan however we were able to keep the price the same.
-MotivXSupport"
No...don't anyone use a strap wrench on these. Buy the proper tool.
@@Methodical2
Did someone say they were using a strap wrench...?
Wow. That was the most simplest explained video on how to change the oil on this specific vehicle. Thank you so much.
Nice, simple instructions. Thanks for taking the time to put this together. I am looking forward to changing the oil.
Just finished doing my first oil change on our 2017 Highlander. The first 4 years the oil services were covered and even after that the cost of an oil change was barely more that if I would have done it myself so I went to the dealership. That was until a couple oil changes ago when the cost suddenly doubled. Not only that but I have always kept my invoices for any services and I noticed an almost $40 ( Canadian dollars ) for an " oil kit" so 'i checked a couple oil changes ago and there was another charge of $40 for an "oil kit assembly".which I believe is a replacement plastic oil filter housing. I have to look into this further but this charge was never on the invoice for any of the other oil changes. So back to me doing my own oil change ( I've always changed my own oil in the past 30+ years, so I'm no rookie ). I decided to check if the oil canister could be could be removed first before draining any oil so I loosened the housing drain plug a quarter turn and then tried the tool I bought for removing the canister just to se if it would turn at all. It did so I left it and completed taking the drain plug on the plastic housing off and using the filter supplied tool to drain the housing. Then I drained the oil pan where I noticed there was no washer / gasket on the drain plug. Got stuck to the pan and it didn't fall off the plug when ||I removed it meaning the dealership mechanic never put one on. Th rubber O ring that fits around the oil filter housing can also be removed without using a pick all you have to do is put you thumb on one side and your index finger on the other side. push in and push towards the other side and the O ring will bulge out enough for you to grab it and lift it off. When you latter add the oil into the funnel, hold the bottle so that the opening on the bottle is on top ( the opposite of the way you would traditionally pour the bottle ) this will keep the oil from " surging out" of the bottle and it pours out smoothly. It's not a big deal but it prevents possible splillige and also works with windshield washer fluid.
You gave the perfect amount of information I’m not a mechanic and I hate long videos. I’m gonna subscribe good job.
I just watched this and I’m about to switch out my oil filter. Great tutorial. I was wondering why there were so many gaskets. Thanks!
Good, simple video. Good job. I recommend re-install canister snug, then torque to OEM spec 18 ft/lbs. Install Cap snug, then torque to OEM spec 9 ft/lbs. Over-tight causes micro-cracks in plastic housing, and then nothing but trouble. If you crack housing, replace with cast aluminum housing.
mary sayre, makes you wonder why Toyota doesn’t use the cast aluminum housing as OEM equipment? For the volumes of vehicles they put the cartridge in, I would pay an extra $15 for a durable part. Maybe that’s just me. 🤷🏻♂️
I believe some Lexus come with an aluminum one. If you go to a Toyota dealer and hit the parts guy up they will square you away. Be away if you don’t use a torque wrench it even easier to oven tighten it.
Too bad we can’t replace it with a normal spin on filter and forget the whole thing
Your video helped me to understand why my co worker mechanic was afraid to remove plastic cover. He not have proper tools and just did synthetic oil change but not filter
Awesome short simple instructions. Thank you. I did put a paper towel in the little drain tube until I got in in. Keep it oil free to I was ready to pull the towel out.
You can get a cast aluminum filter housing to replace the plastic one . Also to clean the filter housing completely . Lube all around the o rings , side and bottom before installing . As I stopped using the plastic tube on the bottom . Because of course it presses against the spring to open and allow oil to drain . I would rather not weaken the spring overtime . And just take the whole thing off , messier of course . Tip it over to drain the oil out . Then take off the bottom , metal cap . Replace all o-rings with the new ones that come with the filter . I would also use a new drain plug gasket , each time too . I always retightened the filter housing by hand and never had any issues .
Only problem with that is you have no leverage to get the metal ring off and I'd rather not put any undue stress on the plastic housing. Basically, I take the metal ring off while on the car; it's much easier. You can then remove the plastic housing if you choose too.
thanks. Performed my first Toyota oil change yesterday. Tightened the cannister all the way (to a stop) by hand. However, was not able to budge it any tighter, with the filter wrench & socket combination. I'm hoping it's sufficiently secure, and wouldn't want to sabotage an engine with only 25k miles due to massive oil loss. Do you think I'm ok?
Never did it before. This video made it simple and not scary new oil for the highlander coming soon
Thank you! By far the best filter change vid I've come across yet.
Great job as you took all of the mystery out of doing this job of replacing this special filter for me. Thank you!
I appreciate this video. I've been looking at the plastic drainer piece for about 20 mins trying to figure out how it fits on. I've already pulled the oil filter out. I had the drain pan ready so no mess.
I need to do my 2011 Camry for the first time. I hadn't seen this set up before, other videos indicate you don't have to remove that plug at the bottom But it's key to make sure the O-ring goes in the right spot. And also important to find the right special wrench that doesn't break..
This is why I go full synthetic and only use the best filter, so I can only fight that plastic chit every other change. It's actually REALLY nice using the little plastic filter drain tool from the new filter box to drain the oil cause you control the flow, less mess, then pull the drain bolt to finish.
Even better, buy a screw in drainer with a hose attached
@rk22cc something that can handle about 80+ psi, sounds good to me
@@JonEhBee ??
Thank you for taking the time to show us how to change the canister
I see so many people struggle with this, but they are really not that difficult if installed/maintained properly. I’m a lube tech for a Woodmans grocery store, and every single time one comes in, I torque it to 25nm after I’m all done. Many times cars will come FROM A DEALERSHIP over tightened. Torque specs are a vital part of the process a lot of people don’t pay enough attention to
Over torque and no oil on the O ring
Yep. I wish I knew this a long time ago. Definitely would have saved a lot oil spills in the driveway...
This is the BEST tutorial. Thanks buddy.
Excellent demo of changing toyota oil+filter! Thanks so much!
Very nice explanation, Thanks for explaining the gaskets ( o rings) some mechanics are too busy to put the new ones in, i see the new ones in the box when disposed of it, and also the oil plastic drain, best tutorial ever 👍
Yes, they are O-rings, not gaskets! Gaskets are flat. O-rings are not flat. Terminology matters. OP could also clean the parts up before putting things back together.
Now that was very productive. Nice and short get right to the point cut out all the fat oil filter cannister removal.
Thanks for putting this up. I'm gonna go play with my FJ.
Great video mate! You made it simple and gave a clear view
After the oil filter cap bottoms out you're not going to give another quarter turn. Just a tug of maybe ⅛ inch should meet the torque spec of 18 ft.lbs.
Snug with a quarter turn more will be way too tight and the oil filter cap and the drainbolt have two different torque specs. The drainbolt should only be 10 ft.lbs. (about half as tight as the oil filter cap).
FTS!! I'm sticking with my 1985 Toyota 4runner SR5 5 speed with the 22re. still driving it daily.
Some of us who have been around the block a few times add engine oil to the canister with the filter in place. Take your time and add oil little by little to allow the new (dry) filter element to wet out and absorbed as much oil as it is willing to take before installing. This allows oil to pass thru the filter quicker upon start up. I have been doing this for years. OBTW, those black thingeys are O-Rings.
Great job nicely done. Thanks. Saved me from getting a headache.
I find leaving the plastic drain tube installed while taking the main filter housing off allows more to drain. Nice video
only video that explained how to use the plastic drain tap and small washer
Just bypass the drain, and use a quality l cap removal tool and a big oil drain pan , saves a lot of time.
I did the Toyota aluminum canister swap on my 4RNR.... that's the way to go. Always pre-load the filter with oil too.
oil doesn't matter. oil comes from oil pickup in pan not the filter. When you fill crankcase with oil it goes to pan where its picked up. always hear this crock over and over. simply no reason to do it unless it makes you feel better
Yeah, I just changed mine today for the first time because I just purchased the car about a month and a half ago. The dealer said they change the oil but I drive the car a lot. It looked clean when I checked it, but I just wanted to make sure I changed it today and yeah, it was kind of a struggle with that oil filter, it shouldn’t be that bad the next time since the dealer changed it, they probably heroed it on even the drain plug was kind of snug. It was on there pretty damn tight.
I own a 13 Camry with that exact oil filter set up, great tutorial. I wish Toyota didn't go an listen to the environmentalists and the accounts and just stuck with the spin on filter that they ended up going back to using anyway. its worked for 70 years don't fix it!
A great additional step is to chuck that plastic canister entirely and install the metal version. $30 well spent today that'll save a lot of hassle in the future when the plastic gets stuck or strips out.
Just do your own oil changes and never torque the oil filter cap to more than 18 ft.lbs.
Save yourself the headache of removing the canister insert & drain process and simply remove the entire canister using a 1/2" drive with a 1 1/16th socket ( Or whatever size your canister tool requires)to remove it, and drain it into the oil tray.
Best canister filter video out there ! All you need nothing you dont.
You do know that a spin-on filter is also called a canister filter?
Great video. Toyota really getting greedy. So many points of failure with a simple oil filter change... horrible design
Yep
Tell me about it!! Changed oil in my Toyota Avensis recently here in Cork,Ireland. Was driving down the motorway afterwards and the low engine oil light came on! I had fitted one of the o rings wrongly on the filter. Then it happened a second time. I had wrongly fitted the second O ring as well. No instructions came with the oil filter,so what do ya expect. Crazy system from Toyota.
the oil filter has a fkn drain plug!!!??? why ???
@@geraldwalsh6489 i didnt know there is a low oil pressure warning light.
I have a 2022 Camry TRD and I love my car but to hell with this filter design
Would have loved to see you pre- fill the canister. I’m not here to argue the merit of such - others have tested and proven it beneficial.
For those that care, the torque specs are as follows:
30 ft lbs for the drain bolt
18 ft pbs for the canister
9 ft lbs for the canister plug
All are easy to over tighten and damage, but all will last forever if they are properly torqued.
And FYI you don’t have to use the canister plug/drain/small o ring every time. The Car Care Nut never uses or changes them and they never leak.
Thanks man just did my first oil change. Your video was help full.
Thanks so much for this video I got everything I need but I don't have the tool to change out the oil filter but I know what I need now
I want to thank you for this. No other video broke it down like yours did. It’s what I needed to move forward
Thank you! Glad to help.
What compelled Toyota to go with a filter with 5 components? Why not just a conventional spin on filter?
Ecology....you just change the paper part of the filter.
The engineer that did that should be sh@t
I would put the bottom cap on first then prime/fill the filter to prevent a low oil pressure start up.
5:11 DOUBLE CHECK that the small gasket is still in place on the base of the canister as you set that cap in place. Just had mine drop off on it's own down into the oil drain pan... it just barely has enough of a lip to hold it in place... just happened to notice at the last minute that it had fallen off. VERY EASY TO MISS THAT!!
After having countless issues of missing nuts, bolts, and other small things after servicing, I got sick of taking in my car for maintenance. Started taking it to my family mechanic, and to find out the oil filter was on wayyy tooooo tight.
Same problem here. I'm doing the oil changes now.
I always put some anti-seize on the housing threads, they are known to get stuck if tightened even a little too much.
Thanks for the detailed review! This is what I needed
Thanks for the video, it's made me think of putting that after market adapter on ! What are your ( anyone's) thoughts on that
Thanks for the video, did you think of changing the plastic filter housing with a metal one?
Stay OEM Toyota unless necessary
Ok, update:
So I changed the oil in the venza...but not without a major issue. The toyota dealership i was taking it to prior decided to put the oil filter cap on with a godamn impact wrench and "overtightened" it. As I was taking it off with all my might, one of the fins cracked off of the cap...but was seemingly minimal enough, I continued to use it.
When I started the car, immediatley looked under the car for leaks...and godammit, oil was shooting from the filter cap like a supersoaker. Needless to say, I replaced that fa33ot plastic cap with an aluminum one. Fit like a glove, cleaned up my mess, did not overthighten, gaskets were lubricated. Mission complete. Thank you
Dang. Well I'm glad you are smart enough to check under the engine after a filter change. You would be surprised how many people call it good and start driving. Well done sir. Without Struggle there is no progress
@@GEARMOAUTO ya thanks. I checked immediatley when i turned the key. I acutally didnt even have to add oil i was so quick. Anyway, thanks for the video...and yes....no struggle, no progress.
We had a disaster today at work trying to remove an OVER-tightened oil canister! (It ended up getting destroyed! By a mechanic, not me.)
And, with the UAW strike, we're having trouble getting a new one. lol
Why wouldn’t Toyota use a spin on filter ! Geeezzzzz !
They are trying to be environmentally friendly with less waste per oil change. No throw-away oil filter canister. Their PR department doesn’t have to work on these, however.
They do. Not all models have the cartridge filter.
I like the design.
O'Reilly sells an aluminum replacement just in case you strip the threads on the plastic or it becomes old and bridle
I have two Toyota's, both with this oil filter, I want to cuss Toyota every time I change the oil in them!!
I'm sure the plastic filter cover would last the life of the vehicle, but I changed mine out for the metal one just to be safe. A part that important on an engine needs to be made of metal IMHO. The key to making the plastic cover last is to not dick it up with a cheap filter wrench. But then again, heat and time can be the enemy to any kind of plastic.
I haaaaate this cartridge filter crap. Is it really that hard to put some threads on the casting so you can screw an oil filter on?
@@NendoCrescendo I went in knowing in advance about the cartridge filter on my 4Runner. It's a pain in the ass to work around. But indeed, it defies all logic why they continue to use the cartridge system over standard filters. The upside is the 1GR-FE 4 liter engine can almost outlast Methuselah. That's a strong hard charging engine to run off such thin oil.
Wished more OEM’s used this design, very mess free to change!
I just drained the oil bigger than shit in my tundra and did not have his part. I had to leave the old filter in there after putting $70 of new synthetic oil. When I maintain a fleet of trucks that I had (F150’s) after sending in hundreds of oil samples I am aware that both oil and oil filters can last up to 20,000 miles. Figuring I changed my oil at 8000 miles I know that I’m good but it’s just a point of it.
Thanks for that! I cant get the very bottom part of the canister (Steel ring that is removed first from the canister) to seperate from the canister, any hints please? Thank you!
Quick question. I see everyone using the plastic piece to drain filter of oil. I’m assuming you can just skip that step and unscrew the whole thing correct? May be a bit more messy but that’s ok. Just looking and the different services of this vehicle as I may be trading in my equinox by the end of the year. Thanks for the video.
I've never changed the smaller gasket or taken out and cleaned the spring mechanism for the bottom part of the canister filter assembly.
Is that a big problem? I don't even understand why they have a gasket there and what the purpose of the bottom part of the canister is.
Thanks man, takes away some stress.
I have this kind of filter on two Toyotas i have i kind of like the drain fitting it beats the heck out of my Subaru legacy getting my arm and exhaust covered in oil pulling out the metal canister filter and having it spill all over everything . I am betting Toyota did it for environmental reasons so you don't have canisters of oil leaking out in garbage dump
Easy tip. Put small o-ring on before installing filter to aide w/it upside down to hold in o-ring.
Wow, great video and very informative...
I just wished I would’ve watched it before taking the whole canister off and getting oil everywhere. What is the point of this canister design?!
*_"What is the point of this canister design?!"_*
I'll give you 3 guesses...lol
Technically the filter cartridge should cost less that the typical spin-on filter...since you're not buying the metal housing.
The more I look at it, the more i think this cartridge/canister system is the way to go. Normally I use a metal spike to punch a small hole in my spin-on filters to allow it to drain while still on the vehicle. Nonetheless, due to the anti-drain valve you still get oil spillage as soon as the filter is spun loose. With this no more using a hammer and spike to drain the filter housing...plus I can still pre-fill my new filter with new oil by re-installing the bottom plate cap first, then insert the new filter, pre-fill, and install.
Thanks for the video. Really helpful. Hi from 🇬🇧. You just got another sub 👍
Those canister are just tight when you take them off. They go back on a little easier but to get the o-ring to make contact you really need to give it a good wrench. I miss the gen 4 design with the filter right on top. Gen 5 is a psychological experiment to see how angry you get spilling oil when doing this on the ground. ;-)
My last free oil change from the dealership . WHOEVER ever did the oil changed must have used an impact gun to put the filter center cap and the whole filter housing on. I had to use a breaker bar to get the housing off. I wasn't able to remove the center one loose and off. Sad .
For those people reading this....it seems for various model years of Sienna they used either plastic or aluminum oil filter housings for the 3.5L v6 engine. Can folks here confirm that the 2016 model year used aluminum?.....I think 2017 - 2019 used plastic.
shouldn't you prefill the filter slightly before install it back?
Thank u so much i had no idea what that plastic thing was meant for
When I changed mine, The whole cannister came off, I didnt realize the center plug was supposed to come out. I replaced the large o ring and couldn't figure out where the small o ring goes. I placed in on the bottom of center part that goes through the filter element.
Just make sure you don't leave the big o-ring off. One of my customers drove up too the shop the other day in his 2011 Tundra V8, he had a christmas tree of lights come on in the cluster, and his engine was rattling and knocking. So he dropped it off for me to diagnose. Long story short, I get the code reader and it's showing about 4 different codes for VVT-i problems. Anyhow, It didn't take long for me to put it on the lift and see a mess of oil everywhere underneath, all coming from the oil filter housing. He got the oil changed the week before at walmart auto center. Anyway, I drained less than a quart and a half from the engine, which takes 8 quarts to fill up. In this case, dude got super lucky that he was close by when the oil got super low, after a proper oil drain and fill and filter, it quieted back down and runs fine again. But since his oil light was on when he came in, he lucked way out.
my mechanic recently did an oil change on my wife's 2018 highlander and the metal screen inside the filter was missing. filter crushed and oil pressure alarms were going off. found metal chips when I removed the housing in the oil and a twisted filter. any idea what kind of damage I'm looking at? engine was knocking and now it's at the dealer...
very good presentation of installing. Great ... very helpfull.
Very helpful video.
Thanks man !
On mine I found that the metal plug on the bottom is stuck tight on the filter housing . Any idea how I can take that off so I can change the small O-ring ?
Like about 3 others on this list, I would like to know about the filter clip that shows up at about 3 oclock on the canister. Isn't that supposed to keep the filter from unscrewing and was it not working properly in the video?
A spin-on filter is called a canister filter. This is an oil filter cartridge system
These are fairly common on large engines. Large meaning LARGE.
Thank You. Very good video man. Much appreciated
Is there an adapter available so you can use a regular spin-on filter? Also, was this for the V6 or the 4 cyl?
No and Toyota type filter cartridge for many of the Toyota motors !
Best explanation i like the way you expain appreciate....
I thought automobile’s were getting better, but this is a regarded design
What's up with that metal tab 3'oclock position (time @0:46)?....it seems to get in the way of removal and replacement each time. Is there some way to move it....seems stuck on there pretty good
It's there to prevent the filter from unscrewing itself in the event it wasn't tightened enough. Meant to engage on the "ears" of the filter housing. Looks like the one on his engine is bent out of the way. I see many cars with them missing entirely. It is not an essential part but I have seen cases where it did work as intended, filter housings on only by a few threads yet still not leaking due to the o-ring.
after reviewing the video, you can see the tab doing its job as he unscrews the filter
@@MrMagichobo21 Shouldn't it lock the canister to prevent it from unscrewing. I think it isn't doing what it is supposed to do.
Very good tutorial. Thank you 👍
Of course the spin on oil filter is way better to work with but judging from the video, the cartridge on toyotas isn't that bad. I just find it odd that even newer 1KR-FE motors feature a spin on filter, while the 2NR-FKE has the cartridge.
Would be nice to know which Toyota you're working on.
Yeah, and is this a V6 or 4?