This Is a updated video on how to remove these stubborn housing, I previously made one a number of years ago but I go into further detail in this one. Reason for this update is to help anyone that may struggle to remove these, like my work mate did. Below is one other option that could also be used, while I have not seen this method used I can understand how it could work well when needed. Stick rag down in the removal tool cap slide onto filter housing and use 1/2 impact gun. Without the rag inserted to take out the slack/play, it will most likely break the teeth on side of filter housing.
Thank you! This video saved me. My mechanic overtightened the oil cap on my Matrix and I couldn't get it off. I couldnt get a breaker bar under the car (just in my driveway so not enough clearance) so I was using a short breaker bar and hammer and still wouldnt budge. I was even starting to strip the cap. Used the paper under the tool trick and tapped with a punch and it came off quickly! Thank you!
Another success story using this method! I broke two tools and a socket extension before trying this. Impact driver stripped the filter wrench too. Slow strong pressure with a breaker bar after tapping worked.
Hint...NEVER LOOSEN the unit using the available 3/8 drive.... most are over-tightened. Using the 3/8 drive either breaks the removal tool by breaking it or it rounds out the squarish 3/8 drive. FOR REMOVAL USE THE SURROUNDING 27MM ( OR WHATEVER SIZE) HEX FITTED AROUND THE 3/8 DRIVE HOLE. Much stronger. AND...seeing that the INSTALLATION torque is ONLY 18 ft-lbs (25NM).....this is about a 1/16th turn past sensing o-ring contact......VERY SMALL amount of extra turning. MOST SHOPS turn an extra 45 or 90 degrees which is MUCH too tight and results in the breakage we're talking about next time....when you try the 3/8 drive to remove.
I have no luck with anything in any of the post on here. The teeth broke off and there is a hole in the housing. I have tried paper trick, warming the car, 2' breaker bar, impact gun and the damn thing won't come loose. I am to the point of damn near giving up! THE PLASTIC POS will not break loose. I don't think the filter has ever been changed and it is 2010 Camry 2.5. All the shops that charged for oil and filter change ripped off my son. Thank you Toyota!
Thanks for the video. I watched several and tried many things. Heating up the car was not an option since I'd already drained the oil. What worked was a combo of what you showed me and someone else - tap on the engine with a hammer (yeah, metal on metal has its risks - I wore glasses to reduce one of them), tap on the filter with a rubber hammer and then I used a hammer and nail set on one of the prongs. I tapped lightly, hitting just a little harder each time. When I saw it move, I stayed with that force. Once it moved about 1/8th turn, I tried a regular (Toyota) filter wrench and that worked. Thanks! BTW: I don't have any impact tools, so I didn't try that. Oh, and the nail set did leave a dent in the plastic, but I was happy to be moving along again.
I was dealing with this last night. I Tried changing oil on a cold engine. I broke the tabs off a plastic housing unit. Tried all the tricks in various videos with no luck. A friend said try warning the engine up to break the seal and this worked. I did not like draining hot oil out of car, but this helps break the seal on oil filter. Hopefully this may help someone else.
Just curious; was your oil filter cap plastic or aluminum? Was it put on at the proper torque of 18 ft.lbs.? Just trying to determine which is more likely to get stuck and if the proper torque is always the cause. Another thing that may be involved is whether the o-ring was properly lubricated.
I’ve changed the oil on my wife’s Corolla about a half dozen times. The first time it was a bear getting the oil filter loose. Since then, I’ve used a torque wrench and have never had a problem.
@@sonicwingnut Sure it does. Put the drain plug back in fill up with fresh oil and start the engine get it warmed up then try the hot engine trick. But if you have cracked the seal on the oil filter your going to have to find another way. The small amount of used oil in the filter isn't going to hurt anything. A lot of engines have over a quart of old oil in them after draining. The best thing to do is to pull the oil filter FIRST.
Your comment about putting paper in the wrench was huge! After breaking off 2 of the 4 teeth on the outside, I used a blue shop paper towel, and got it off. Thank you sir and Praise God for leading me to this answer! I’m pretty surprised at Toyota’s subpar design for including a plastic filter housing and a pretty weak grip to remove these things.
Absolutely brutal design what was wrong with the traditional style filter people say cars are getting better I don't think so older Toyota pre vvti it was hard to kill them
It's a simple effective design that is easy to service. The problem is the number of morons that over tighten the housing. The housing has a stop flange, when the flange contacts the engine stop tightening the housing. Immediately. Not tight plus a quarter turn.
Thank you for the video I think it will help me tomorrow I just wanna say I’m really happy to see that people put these videos out there so that people like me can maybe benefit from it
I always change my oil and filter. I purchased a 2011 Camry brand new and the oil filter housing was on so tight I had to go to the neighborhood mechanic for help. He used a breaker bar with a pipe extension to remove it . Just got lucky that the plastic housing did not break. Oh. I took it to the dealer first under free oil change warrantee ( and marked the filter) they said they changed it. Lying bastards! After that I switched to a Baxter filter housing replacement. Recommend it to all. Will make life so easy when doing a oil & filter change!
This is how Toyota dealers put on a filter housing.... part time 17 year old... impact wrench set to 400 ft POUNDS. Call it a day...not my problem! Back to my phone and Facebook.
Oh my goodness. This worked for me. After fighting with it for 4 hours I tried the method of placing a blue shop towel rag in the cap wrench, tapped it tightly onto the housing with a hammer, and used a 27mm socket on a 1/2 drive to break it lose. that moment i will remember for the rest of my life.
Currently going through this problem myself on a '16 Rav4 I'm mere seconds away from blowing my lid because the large amount of patience I have is dam near running out!
@@bladedge183 I cannot get the damned thing off either. 2012 prius. Tried the hammer, a punch, etc. Would not budge. Resigned to taking it to a shop. Very frustrated as I drained all of the oil first.
thank you for all the tips...my 2019 highlander was seizing up..i gently tap around the housing and placed a mechanic paper towel inside the housing remover with a 12v milwaukee mechanical impact drill and slowly undo it...it finally worked!.. before all of this, i tried to undo the oil housing with my breaker bar and broke my oil housing remover in half...thanks again..
I tried the tap method, and it didn't work. But what was funny about it was I managed to shear the insert part of a socket wrench off twice without damaging the tool. I ended up having to use an impact wrench to get it off. Thankfully, it did not break the filter or the tool.
Gerard - So I saw your Toyota stuck filter Vid on UT. Knew you were all over it (YOU)! Absolutely be back for more onstrucuction. Thumbs up from a brand new subscriber. SundogJax
I am currently fighting this very problem both of the tools i bought would not fit properly would not securely grab the cap so i purchased a tool with 3 prongs that when rotated would retract to grab the housing the more you rotated it the tighter it grabbed however this tool just slid up and around the tabs,so i reached for my last resort.a pipe wrench long story short it STILL could not break the cap loose it did break off pieces of it but the cap still did not budge.I have no choice but to take it to a shop and have them try their luck,i will have to use the new oil i bought but i have no alternative.
Buy a steel removal tool like the CTA 2475, and replace plastic housings with the Toyota metal housing. The cheaper alloy tools are fine if the canister was not overtightened, but can't handle more and may fracture. You will pull the engine off its mounts before you will damage the steel tool.
I had the removal tool get stuck on the housing after I removed it. I had warmed up the engine before draining the oil so the plastic housing had expanded. Had to wait several anxious hours for everything to cool down before I could get the tool off after re-installation.
Yeah didn't work on my Tacoma. I had to break it. I've never seen one out on so effing tight. I went back to the shop that did last oil change and got a refund on the replacement. Asshats
I wrestled with this housing for three hours yesterday, before finally getting it off. In separating the housing grom the tool, the spring in the center of the housing flew off, and disappeared. I replaced the housing, but without the spring. Could this cause problems for oil flow? Thanks for all the great tips! Happy New Year!
I had to go one step further - I used fine grit sand paper as the paper between the tool and the housing and that did the trick! The very first time trying to change it it was so stuck I sent it to the dealer to remove. It's 2nd oil change it was stuck again and even after using the paper trick shown on here, it wouldn't budge as the tool just kept slipping off (very frustrating and wanting to "talk" to the engineers). So used a little sandpaper and viola!
i used an air impact gun on with a tool. using air is more forgiving than a breaker bar. i broke my tool just like you did. with a couple pumps of the trigger on air, it loosened right away.
Great video and life saver on my 2011 Prius.... of course did not know it was seized until I drained out all the oil which left me with no way to get it to a shop. Working only with a 10” ramp and hand tools (socket set, Rachel, 18” breaker bar...) could not generate enough torque to break free the filter cap due to low ground clearance and horizontal aspect of the filter. I Used a small ball peen hammer and tapped the engine housing and very lightly tapped the plastic cap as suggested. I still needed to use a jack to turn the breaker bar while tapping the engine housing, but Was able to turn it a few degrees after which I could use a Rachel wrench. The parts store that sold me the special filter cap tool warmed me against using a hammer drive which could shatter the aluminum tool or plastic cap. They advises a breaker bar and extension like a pipe to generate more leverage. Unfortunately that would only work if I had a lift. Again thank you, I am assuming the tapping set up enough of a vibration at the surface interface to break any local adhesion. I used a metal hammer to transmit the shock vice a rubber or nylon mallet... not sure if that is more efficient in transmitting the shock waves?
I had this problem last week. I been doing the oil change every 2 months and never had a problem until last week, I try everything even putting a screwdriver true the filter and the screwdriver broke, I have to take out the full housing out to try to remove the cap outside and nothing work, NOTHING!!! I had to break the cap completely piece by piece and get a new one, I think there's a oil filter housing to adapt a metal oil filter I'll try to change that so I don't have problems in the future.
This video saved me. Had a stuck filter cap on a 2012 Corolla. After seeing this video, I hammered it a bit, then took a disposable shop towel (a regular paper towel probably could've worked just as well) and laid it over the filter cap, then hammered the oil filter tool over top that. Was finally able to get it to turn with a breaker bar with that setup. Saved my day. Thank you so much for publishing this
Your video helped! I had been struggling to get mine off for several hours. My tool had gotten sloppy, slipped and sheared the plastic tabs and made a big hole in the lid. I tried tapping the lid, then put napkins between my tool and the filter lid. Boom! It finally opened
Thank you for this video. Tapping around the housing of the oil filter and adding paper to the motiv tool did the trick. I have no idea why dealer mechanics over torque these filter housings especially the plastic ones. Take care and thanks again for the video.
Hello. I have broken a few of those tools. Not like you did. Last one I bought at Advance Auto. Went to take one off a Rav4. Used a reducer to a 3/8" ratchet. The Nut Popped Off. Took it home. And welded it .A Steel one. Stopped at the store. Associate said she has had Warrantied a few for that reason. Look inside the new one, You can see a tiny weld. Its been used a few times since the repair. What about using a Hose Clamp on the outside of the Flutes? To help keep it from Spreading.
Thus is hands down the dumbest design choice in the history of automotive manufacturing and from (what used to be) tops in reliability. I bought a Tundra last year and was shocked by this. That cannister filter adapter looks attractive but I wonder how well the pil flow is. Unbelievable they did this to such a critical engine component
Excellent demo, at 2:34min you mention paper inside. Top idea. I cut a strip 1/2" wide of 80 sandpaper as this firms the fit around the 14 faces where most of the force should be applied. Torque force using my Toyota tool is sloppy over the 14 faces so places most force on the two Ears and made a circle crack and oil leak.
This worked great for me. A few taps with a dead blow hammer, and a few taps with a 1/4 lb. ball peen hammer and a regular socket wrench removed it. Previously a breaker bar with a cheater wouldn't budge it. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the video!!! The paper trick helped along with my impact wrench for around 10 minutes and I finally got it off from whoever the gorilla was before me. Its cracked and leaking but at least its off.
This seems to be a video about removing a stuck oil filter canister - NOT the cap tool that fits on it, what you attach to a socket wrench or breaker bar. Am I misunderstanding? I got my filter canister off but the cap is stuck to the canister body!! No problem screwing the canister back into the block with the new filter element, it's just that I may have to drive around with that cap stuck to it! This video doesn't seem to address that, unless I'm missing something.
The dealers over torque these plastic housings to prevent any oil leaks. Gerard’s method works. Use newspaper, paper towels or a rag around the filter to increase grip. But first lightly tap the filter housing all around. Then use a torque wrench to loosen up. If its below freezing where u live warm up engine to operating temperature. Ive own Toyotas all my life. Just got another one. I battled this the other day again. Its always the same story. Thanks for the advice. I had forgotten about tapping around the filter housing.
So about 4 years ago one of those oil change place at a car wash put it on the filter housing so tight that the next time I did a DIY I had to call my neighbor over and he and I pulled on the handle so hard we got it off. But what I have NOT been able to loosen is the pre-drain drain plug. Any ideas for it to be loosened or removed? (Of course I'd have to do it when the housing is off)
Bought 2018 Rav4 with 15k on the ODO. Less thank 1700 miles since last change 6 months ago. Got to the filter removal stage...stuck-stuck-stuck. Have all the right tools, NA a 36" cheater.
I am so pissed at eco-friendly lobbyists & engineers who make this crap & think it is soooo friendly. I have never in 40 years had a oil filter so frozen on & this one I cannot put a screwdriver though it to turn it or I will have to buy another housing. This guy in the video had to destroy 2 "fitment removers" before the 3rd got it loose; so much for eco-friendly when you have to throw away broken tools & maybe replace the housing itself.
I found when i got my used toyota i got the stuck housing off by using impact wrench with big socket rather than wrenches the vibration removed it easily after fighting with large wrenches and twisting extension bars
I had a Toyota Rav4 previously and I broke the oil filter housing so from that experience I tried to be extra careful this time removing the oil filter housing unit on my Toyota Tacoma 2016 and this method worked. Thanks!!
Mine broke 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️. I had to get a chisel and hammer and cut in inside after I broke the outside with the chisel and hammer too.. 50 dollar part and three hours later I’m done and still gave the customer a free oil change for the long wait time🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️ half day wasted
These are a terrible design. Last time couldn't get the small cap on the bottom off so just removed and cleaned the whole filter. This time even though I made sure not to overtighten it, the whole damn thing is stuck. This is a Mk3 Rav4, on my old Mk2 the whole filter an housing was a replaceable unit, never had a problem changing it. Not having luck with this method, will try again and if not it's just getting filled up with oil so I can drive the thing until it can go to a mechanic.
Everyone who has this system should be prepared for a worse case scenario especially if this is the first time you're doing this. In case of a Stuck Oil Filter Make sure you have the following... 1. The proper Motivx* oil filter cap wrench. Item #MX2320 us for all Toyota/Lexus/Scion engines 2.0 liters and larger using a cartridge style oil filter or item #MX2321 is for all engines smaller than 2.0 liters using a cartridge style filter. 2. A 27 mm ½ inch drive socket 3. A ½ drive breaker bar (18 inches or longer in length. An extension may be needed for some models.) If an oil filter cap seems difficult to remove, only the above items should be used (or equivalent tools). Do not simply use a ⅜ inch drive ratchet or ratchet with extension as these will sometimes result in breakage of the oil filter cap wrench or the oil filter cap. Always make sure the teeth on the wrench are properly engaged with the tabs on the oil filter cap. To prevent reoccurrence of the problem •Make sure new o-rings are properly lubricated before installing. •Use a torque wrench to install the oil filter cap to no more than 18 ft.lbs (25 N•m). Oil filter drainplug = 10 ft.lbs. (13 N•m) * If you think the Motivx tools are too expensive at least consider the following... Do not buy an oil filter cap wrench that is made from cast aluminum. Only buy one that is forged. Do not buy one that is strictly a cap wrench that does not have teeth. Do not buy one that claims to fit all models or even all four cylinders. The 2.0 and 2.5 liter four cylinder engines use the same oil filter cap wrenches as the six and eight cylinder engines use. Only the 1.8 and 1.3 liter engines use a different size oil filter cap and oil filter cap wrench. If the oil filter for your four cylinder vehicle comes with one o-ring instead of two then your vehicle takes the same wrench as a Prius or Corolla. If your oil filter comes with two o-rings & a drain tool then your oil filter cap takes the same wrench as the six and eight cylinder engines. Some companies claim their wrench works for all four cylinders but on the 2.5 liter engines that smaller wrench does not engage the teeth on the wrench to the tabs on the oil filter cap. It may work if your oil filter cap is not stuck but it is a poor choice. They are mislead.
I agree. I broke the OEM plastic oil filter cover and had to scramble to obtain a replacement. The closest AutoZone had a Dorman replacement, but alas, this unit had a nearly invisible casting void that cause oil to spray all over my garage floor. A second unit was unavailable from the first supplier, so I had to drive to a second AutoZone. The manager at that store allowed me to brak open the packaging and closely inspect it before leaving the store. The second Dorman part was usable, but I am considering buying a thired replacement so I have one in hand for the next event. Toyota really screwed us with this oil filter design.
Just get a Baxter spin on adapter. These Toyota canister filters are garbage. The dealerships impact them on and you will fall victim to it if you ever have them touch your vehicle.
I was a fan of Toyota...that is until I owned one. This filter assembly is beyond ludicrous. Special tools to install and remove. And if you torque to specs, you're in for a treat. The blue shop paper did it for me. But the process still resulted in a cracked and useless filter assembly. This is right after our 17 Sienna just had a brake booster failure that nearly killed us.
Omg, I had tried everything and the tabs broke off revealing a pin hole, so I had to get this off. Your tapping and the peice of paper in the oil filter socket , Worked. 😁 Thanks so much.
Toyota drives me nuts. Good cars, bad service. That tool he's using, the oil filter wrench was 45$ at the dealership!! At AutoZone it was 9.99$ Get this, they don't even carry the correct wrench to remove the filter! Had to order the specific one (3 teeth on one side, 1 on the other) from dadgurn Amazon! Ridiculous!
Thanks so much! A question on the 2012 camry pcv valve. Any advice? I saw videos with a method of valve removal from under ( instead of intake manifold removal). What about making an access hole (say 1-1/2 inch) through the front wheel well, just above the frame and near the strut tower, and cover it with a rubber grommet when finished? Many thanks!
i have found that when they get stuck from someone overtightening them or being on too long, they tend to come off easier if the engine is warm. tried a breaker bar on mine, but it was mangling the filter wrench cap so i switched to the large nut on filter cap and an impact wrench and that made it break free a lot easier than breaker bars. I put a bit of silicone grease on the end of housing, threads and o ring and that seems to help a lot in having it come off easily but of course the key thing is keep it away from idiots at Toyota dealers who tighten it with an impact wrench it barely needs any tightening there is no end seal just an o ring on side it won't come loose the o ring keeps it from moving.
I had one that was severely stuck on. It was the plastic kind on a 2016 scion IM. Nothing was working and then the owner of the car suggested a thin strip of sandpaper. I cut a strip of sandpaper about an inch wide and about 4 inches long wrapped the sandpaper side around the filter housing and then hammered on the socket with a dead blow hammer. I got grip and it came off. I decided to replace the housing with a brand new one that had not been rounded off.
The blue shop towel on top of the release tool worked thank you so much! It was hard to get the tool off afterward, my oil filter was really impacted on there.
Had this happen, To get it off use some self-tapping screws and screw the removal tool to the filter. Use big screws, but be careful not to damage the actual motor/threads. Then use a cheater pipe to help get it off.
I used a shop towel, a breaker bar, a cheater bar and a floor jack to keep pressure on it to break the seal. Couldn't believe how tight the plastic housing was installed.
This worked out so well for my 18 rav4 after we had it changed at a lube place that overtightened it. Then it broke when I tried to remove it. Used sandpaper instead of paper
toyota oil filter cap design and placement of oil filter on rear of engine is absolute garbage. It takes me 10 times as much time to do oil/ filter change on Toyota as other cars with simple standard oil filter in front of the engine where it's easy to reach.
I hope there is a special place in hell for the mechanics that over tighten these housings. No consideration for the do it yourselfer trying to remove it a few months later.
Thank you for this video!! I had a stick plastic housing and it cracked with the removal tool. I put the piece of paper in and was able to remove the housing without any more damage.
I just broke my plastic housing ugh!!! I also used this method. Put a paper in between the tool and filter and tapped it and it broke loose!!! Horrible design crazy!!!
This Is a updated video on how to remove these stubborn housing, I previously made one a number of years ago but I go into further detail in this one. Reason for this update is to help anyone that may struggle to remove these, like my work mate did.
Below is one other option that could also be used, while I have not seen this method used I can understand how it could work well when needed.
Stick rag down in the removal tool cap slide onto filter housing and use 1/2 impact gun. Without the rag inserted to take out the slack/play, it will most likely break the teeth on side of filter housing.
Would this work for a saturn vue hybrid with a plastic cap?
Thanks for the video 😊
Thank you! This video saved me. My mechanic overtightened the oil cap on my Matrix and I couldn't get it off. I couldnt get a breaker bar under the car (just in my driveway so not enough clearance) so I was using a short breaker bar and hammer and still wouldnt budge. I was even starting to strip the cap. Used the paper under the tool trick and tapped with a punch and it came off quickly! Thank you!
Another success story using this method! I broke two tools and a socket extension before trying this. Impact driver stripped the filter wrench too. Slow strong pressure with a breaker bar after tapping worked.
I broke two tools before I watched this, used your method and got the cap off with one of the broken tools 👍
Hint...NEVER LOOSEN the unit using the available 3/8 drive.... most are over-tightened. Using the 3/8 drive either breaks the removal tool by breaking it or it rounds out the squarish 3/8 drive. FOR REMOVAL USE THE SURROUNDING 27MM ( OR WHATEVER SIZE) HEX FITTED AROUND THE 3/8 DRIVE HOLE. Much stronger. AND...seeing that the INSTALLATION torque is ONLY 18 ft-lbs (25NM).....this is about a 1/16th turn past sensing o-ring contact......VERY SMALL amount of extra turning. MOST SHOPS turn an extra 45 or 90 degrees which is MUCH too tight and results in the breakage we're talking about next time....when you try the 3/8 drive to remove.
I have no luck with anything in any of the post on here. The teeth broke off and there is a hole in the housing. I have tried paper trick, warming the car, 2' breaker bar, impact gun and the damn thing won't come loose. I am to the point of damn near giving up! THE PLASTIC POS will not break loose. I don't think the filter has ever been changed and it is 2010 Camry 2.5. All the shops that charged for oil and filter change ripped off my son. Thank you Toyota!
Thanks for the video. I watched several and tried many things. Heating up the car was not an option since I'd already drained the oil. What worked was a combo of what you showed me and someone else - tap on the engine with a hammer (yeah, metal on metal has its risks - I wore glasses to reduce one of them), tap on the filter with a rubber hammer and then I used a hammer and nail set on one of the prongs. I tapped lightly, hitting just a little harder each time. When I saw it move, I stayed with that force. Once it moved about 1/8th turn, I tried a regular (Toyota) filter wrench and that worked. Thanks! BTW: I don't have any impact tools, so I didn't try that. Oh, and the nail set did leave a dent in the plastic, but I was happy to be moving along again.
Guess ya couldn't put oil in eh 😂
I was dealing with this last night. I Tried changing oil on a cold engine. I broke the tabs off a plastic housing unit. Tried all the tricks in various videos with no luck.
A friend said try warning the engine up to break the seal and this worked. I did not like draining hot oil out of car, but this helps break the seal on oil filter. Hopefully this may help someone else.
Heat does certainly help in some cases Chris, good shout. I can't say I have used that in these (so far) but should I need too I would try it.
Just curious; was your oil filter cap plastic or aluminum? Was it put on at the proper torque of 18 ft.lbs.? Just trying to determine which is more likely to get stuck and if the proper torque is always the cause. Another thing that may be involved is whether the o-ring was properly lubricated.
I’ve changed the oil on my wife’s Corolla about a half dozen times. The first time it was a bear getting the oil filter loose. Since then, I’ve used a torque wrench and have never had a problem.
Sadly this doesn't work when you just drained all the oil out of your engine lol
@@sonicwingnut Sure it does. Put the drain plug back in fill up with fresh oil and start the engine get it warmed up then try the hot engine trick. But if you have cracked the seal on the oil filter your going to have to find another way. The small amount of used oil in the filter isn't going to hurt anything. A lot of engines have over a quart of old oil in them after draining. The best thing to do is to pull the oil filter FIRST.
Your comment about putting paper in the wrench was huge! After breaking off 2 of the 4 teeth on the outside, I used a blue shop paper towel, and got it off. Thank you sir and Praise God for leading me to this answer! I’m pretty surprised at Toyota’s subpar design for including a plastic filter housing and a pretty weak grip to remove these things.
Absolutely brutal design what was wrong with the traditional style filter people say cars are getting better I don't think so older Toyota pre vvti it was hard to kill them
It's a simple effective design that is easy to service. The problem is the number of morons that over tighten the housing. The housing has a stop flange, when the flange contacts the engine stop tightening the housing. Immediately. Not tight plus a quarter turn.
So frustrating.
Using an impact did the trick for me. I had a plastic housing, but I replaced it with a metal or aluminum one.
Thank you for the video I think it will help me tomorrow I just wanna say I’m really happy to see that people put these videos out there so that people like me can maybe benefit from it
Thank you. Printer paper and breaker bar worked great on ‘09 Pontiac vibe that had last been for an oil change at a quicky lube shop
I always change my oil and filter. I purchased a 2011 Camry brand new and the oil filter housing was on so tight I had to go to the neighborhood mechanic for help. He used a breaker bar with a pipe extension to remove it . Just got lucky that the plastic housing did not break. Oh. I took it to the dealer first under free oil change warrantee ( and marked the filter) they said they changed it. Lying bastards! After that I switched to a Baxter filter housing replacement. Recommend it to all. Will make life so easy when doing a oil & filter change!
This is how Toyota dealers put on a filter housing.... part time 17 year old... impact wrench set to 400 ft POUNDS. Call it a day...not my problem! Back to my phone and Facebook.
Oh my goodness. This worked for me. After fighting with it for 4 hours I tried the method of placing a blue shop towel rag in the cap wrench, tapped it tightly onto the housing with a hammer, and used a 27mm socket on a 1/2 drive to break it lose. that moment i will remember for the rest of my life.
Currently going through this problem myself on a '16 Rav4 I'm mere seconds away from blowing my lid because the large amount of patience I have is dam near running out!
Can't lie! Why the hecm do they put these on so tight?! I have a 2018, and it's insane!
Break it off, they're 40 bucks and sold everywhere
@@bladedge183 I cannot get the damned thing off either. 2012 prius. Tried the hammer, a punch, etc. Would not budge. Resigned to taking it to a shop. Very frustrated as I drained all of the oil first.
thank you for all the tips...my 2019 highlander was seizing up..i gently tap around the housing and placed a mechanic paper towel inside the housing remover with a 12v milwaukee mechanical impact drill and slowly undo it...it finally worked!.. before all of this, i tried to undo the oil housing with my breaker bar and broke my oil housing remover in half...thanks again..
I tried the tap method, and it didn't work. But what was funny about it was I managed to shear the insert part of a socket wrench off twice without damaging the tool. I ended up having to use an impact wrench to get it off. Thankfully, it did not break the filter or the tool.
Gerard - So I saw your Toyota stuck filter Vid on UT. Knew you were all over it (YOU)! Absolutely be back for more onstrucuction. Thumbs up from a brand new subscriber. SundogJax
I am currently fighting this very problem both of the tools i bought would not fit properly would not securely grab the cap so i purchased a tool with 3 prongs that when rotated would retract to grab the housing the more you rotated it the tighter it grabbed however this tool just slid up and around the tabs,so i reached for my last resort.a pipe wrench long story short it STILL could not break the cap loose it did break off pieces of it but the cap still did not budge.I have no choice but to take it to a shop and have them try their luck,i will have to use the new oil i bought but i have no alternative.
Buy a steel removal tool like the CTA 2475, and replace plastic housings with the Toyota metal housing. The cheaper alloy tools are fine if the canister was not overtightened, but can't handle more and may fracture. You will pull the engine off its mounts before you will damage the steel tool.
I had the removal tool get stuck on the housing after I removed it. I had warmed up the engine before draining the oil so the plastic housing had expanded. Had to wait several anxious hours for everything to cool down before I could get the tool off after re-installation.
Yeah didn't work on my Tacoma. I had to break it. I've never seen one out on so effing tight. I went back to the shop that did last oil change and got a refund on the replacement. Asshats
I wrestled with this housing for three hours yesterday, before finally getting it off. In separating the housing grom the tool, the spring in the center of the housing flew off, and disappeared. I replaced the housing, but without the spring. Could this cause problems for oil flow? Thanks for all the great tips! Happy New Year!
I just got one off using a wrench (the kind with the arms that retract) and a rag that I doubled up as many times as I could
Same thing just happened to my 2010 Tundra. Tapping, a heat gun and a pipe/Monkey wrench finally got it off, but it's busted and has to be replaced.
Just going through this now. What an arsehole of a design! I’ve changed the oil on many vehicles and never had such a headache.
I had to go one step further - I used fine grit sand paper as the paper between the tool and the housing and that did the trick! The very first time trying to change it it was so stuck I sent it to the dealer to remove. It's 2nd oil change it was stuck again and even after using the paper trick shown on here, it wouldn't budge as the tool just kept slipping off (very frustrating and wanting to "talk" to the engineers). So used a little sandpaper and viola!
i used an air impact gun on with a tool. using air is more forgiving than a breaker bar. i broke my tool just like you did. with a couple pumps of the trigger on air, it loosened right away.
Great video and life saver on my 2011 Prius.... of course did not know it was seized until I drained out all the oil which left me with no way to get it to a shop. Working only with a 10” ramp and hand tools (socket set, Rachel, 18” breaker bar...) could not generate enough torque to break free the filter cap due to low ground clearance and horizontal aspect of the filter. I Used a small ball peen hammer and tapped the engine housing and very lightly tapped the plastic cap as suggested. I still needed to use a jack to turn the breaker bar while tapping the engine housing, but Was able to turn it a few degrees after which I could use a Rachel wrench. The parts store that sold me the special filter cap tool warmed me against using a hammer drive which could shatter the aluminum tool or plastic cap. They advises a breaker bar and extension like a pipe to generate more leverage. Unfortunately that would only work if I had a lift. Again thank you, I am assuming the tapping set up enough of a vibration at the surface interface to break any local adhesion. I used a metal hammer to transmit the shock vice a rubber or nylon mallet... not sure if that is more efficient in transmitting the shock waves?
Great to hear, thank you for sharing your story 🙏🙏👍👍
Delighted it all worked out for you 👌
There are heavy duty after market versions for some
It's been said to only hand tighten any oil filter and lube the gaskets / o-rings with fresh new engine oil . Spray some penetranting oil ?
I had this problem last week. I been doing the oil change every 2 months and never had a problem until last week, I try everything even putting a screwdriver true the filter and the screwdriver broke, I have to take out the full housing out to try to remove the cap outside and nothing work, NOTHING!!! I had to break the cap completely piece by piece and get a new one, I think there's a oil filter housing to adapt a metal oil filter I'll try to change that so I don't have problems in the future.
Ohhh, you gotta love the eco-friendly engineers & lobbyists that created this junk.
Tapping all around with a brass hammer and the paper trick saved my bacon getting the oil cannister off. Many thanks!
Did you mention how un-tight it should be?
Oil filter cap = 25 N•m (18 ft.lbs.)
Oil filter cap drainplug = 12.5 N•m (10 ft.lbs.)
I did not Steven, Good point and thanks for posting.
Dealerships only speak in terms of impact wrench bursts. They don’t give a shit about torque specs
This video saved me. Had a stuck filter cap on a 2012 Corolla. After seeing this video, I hammered it a bit, then took a disposable shop towel (a regular paper towel probably could've worked just as well) and laid it over the filter cap, then hammered the oil filter tool over top that. Was finally able to get it to turn with a breaker bar with that setup. Saved my day. Thank you so much for publishing this
Broke the plastic OEM one and the aluminum one leaked had to buy another OEM one to stop it from leaking hate these things lol.
Your video helped! I had been struggling to get mine off for several hours. My tool had gotten sloppy, slipped and sheared the plastic tabs and made a big hole in the lid. I tried tapping the lid, then put napkins between my tool and the filter lid. Boom! It finally opened
Thank you for this video. Tapping around the housing of the oil filter and adding paper to the motiv tool did the trick. I have no idea why dealer mechanics over torque these filter housings especially the plastic ones. Take care and thanks again for the video.
To keep the uninformed from changing the oil themselves
And requires you to pay them to do it for you instead. Teaching a generation not how to be handy anymore.
Master design by Toyota
Hello. I have broken a few of those tools. Not like you did. Last one I bought at Advance Auto. Went to take one off a Rav4. Used a reducer to a 3/8" ratchet. The Nut Popped Off. Took it home. And welded it .A Steel one. Stopped at the store. Associate said she has had Warrantied a few for that reason. Look inside the new one, You can see a tiny weld. Its been used a few times since the repair. What about using a Hose Clamp on the outside of the Flutes? To help keep it from Spreading.
Thus is hands down the dumbest design choice in the history of automotive manufacturing and from (what used to be) tops in reliability. I bought a Tundra last year and was shocked by this. That cannister filter adapter looks attractive but I wonder how well the pil flow is. Unbelievable they did this to such a critical engine component
I have a impact wrench but it won't come off this time, kept spinning, after some time. I will try tapping and put paper and see.
Excellent demo, at 2:34min you mention paper inside. Top idea. I cut a strip 1/2" wide of 80 sandpaper as this firms the fit around the 14 faces where most of the force should be applied. Torque force using my Toyota tool is sloppy over the 14 faces so places most force on the two Ears and made a circle crack and oil leak.
Great idea thank you
I had a time that the impact gun wouldn’t even budge the canister! Fortunately it was a plastic housing so I just smashed it to bits and replaced it
Lol that is exactly what i am about to do cause that thing is not coming off
Is it easier with a drained sump? Can there be a degree of 'hydraulic lock' so to speak?
Thanks, Gerard. Short and useful video. Now I know what the wrench looks like.
This worked great for me. A few taps with a dead blow hammer, and a few taps with a 1/4 lb. ball peen hammer and a regular socket wrench removed it. Previously a breaker bar with a cheater wouldn't budge it. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the video!!! The paper trick helped along with my impact wrench for around 10 minutes and I finally got it off from whoever the gorilla was before me. Its cracked and leaking but at least its off.
This seems to be a video about removing a stuck oil filter canister - NOT the cap tool that fits on it, what you attach to a socket wrench or breaker bar. Am I misunderstanding? I got my filter canister off but the cap is stuck to the canister body!! No problem screwing the canister back into the block with the new filter element, it's just that I may have to drive around with that cap stuck to it! This video doesn't seem to address that, unless I'm missing something.
The dealers over torque these plastic housings to prevent any oil leaks. Gerard’s method works. Use newspaper, paper towels or a rag around the filter to increase grip. But first lightly tap the filter housing all around. Then use a torque wrench to loosen up. If its below freezing where u live warm up engine to operating temperature. Ive own Toyotas all my life. Just got another one. I battled this the other day again. Its always the same story. Thanks for the advice. I had forgotten about tapping around the filter housing.
If one knows what he is doing he never uses torque wrench to loosen anything up. Hammer tapping 😂
So about 4 years ago one of those oil change place at a car wash put it on the filter housing so tight that the next time I did a DIY I had to call my neighbor over and he and I pulled on the handle so hard we got it off. But what I have NOT been able to loosen is the pre-drain drain plug. Any ideas for it to be loosened or removed? (Of course I'd have to do it when the housing is off)
Bought 2018 Rav4 with 15k on the ODO. Less thank 1700 miles since last change 6 months ago.
Got to the filter removal stage...stuck-stuck-stuck. Have all the right tools, NA a 36" cheater.
I am so pissed at eco-friendly lobbyists & engineers who make this crap & think it is soooo friendly. I have never in 40 years had a oil filter so frozen on & this one I cannot put a screwdriver though it to turn it or I will have to buy another housing. This guy in the video had to destroy 2 "fitment removers" before the 3rd got it loose; so much for eco-friendly when you have to throw away broken tools & maybe replace the housing itself.
Paper in tool... hammer... nothing helped. Longer 25cm wrench helped ...
ty. it worked ! I am carrying a piece of wood and a large flat punch and a small mallet, in case I need to do this while traveling.
I found when i got my used toyota i got the stuck housing off by using impact wrench with big socket rather than wrenches the vibration removed it easily after fighting with large wrenches and twisting extension bars
if you torque them to 25 newton meters you won’t have the issue removing it next time
I had a Toyota Rav4 previously and I broke the oil filter housing so from that experience I tried to be extra careful this time removing the oil filter housing unit on my Toyota Tacoma 2016 and this method worked. Thanks!!
Mine broke 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️. I had to get a chisel and hammer and cut in inside after I broke the outside with the chisel and hammer too.. 50 dollar part and three hours later I’m done and still gave the customer a free oil change for the long wait time🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️ half day wasted
Why not just stick with a spin-on oil filter? Why add a level of complication and frustration?
Yes they can be tight Gerard, have used 3 quarter braker bar with reducers, no sadness yet tg:):)
Long may that last 🙏👍😉
What kind of mechaincs do they have working at toyota? Smh im haveing a hard time removing mines
By the way, the seal transmission is much easy to maintain that when they had the dipstick.
Only thing that worked for me was a chain wrench with a cheater pipe......
the fins of the filter cap (housing all snapped off) fitment tool has nothign to grab onto now. now what?
These are a terrible design. Last time couldn't get the small cap on the bottom off so just removed and cleaned the whole filter. This time even though I made sure not to overtighten it, the whole damn thing is stuck. This is a Mk3 Rav4, on my old Mk2 the whole filter an housing was a replaceable unit, never had a problem changing it.
Not having luck with this method, will try again and if not it's just getting filled up with oil so I can drive the thing until it can go to a mechanic.
Never had any issues with spin on oil filter. Ever.
Toyota always sucks... Still no improvement...
My impact still didnt get it off, and the cap is breaking,
Using paper towels works. Thank you
Large pair of channel locks, comes right off.
Mine cracked the inside of the removal tool.
Everyone who has this system should be prepared for a worse case scenario especially if this is the first time you're doing this.
In case of a Stuck Oil Filter
Make sure you have the following...
1. The proper Motivx* oil filter cap wrench. Item #MX2320 us for all Toyota/Lexus/Scion engines 2.0 liters and larger using a cartridge style oil filter or item #MX2321 is for all engines smaller than 2.0 liters using a cartridge style filter.
2. A 27 mm ½ inch drive socket
3. A ½ drive breaker bar (18 inches or longer in length. An extension may be needed for some models.)
If an oil filter cap seems difficult to remove, only the above items should be used (or equivalent tools). Do not simply use a ⅜ inch drive ratchet or ratchet with extension as these will sometimes result in breakage of the oil filter cap wrench or the oil filter cap.
Always make sure the teeth on the wrench are properly engaged with the tabs on the oil filter cap.
To prevent reoccurrence of the problem
•Make sure new o-rings are properly lubricated before installing.
•Use a torque wrench to install the oil filter cap to no more than 18 ft.lbs (25 N•m). Oil filter drainplug = 10 ft.lbs. (13 N•m)
* If you think the Motivx tools are too expensive at least consider the following... Do not buy an oil filter cap wrench that is made from cast aluminum. Only buy one that is forged. Do not buy one that is strictly a cap wrench that does not have teeth. Do not buy one that claims to fit all models or even all four cylinders. The 2.0 and 2.5 liter four cylinder engines use the same oil filter cap wrenches as the six and eight cylinder engines use. Only the 1.8 and 1.3 liter engines use a different size oil filter cap and oil filter cap wrench. If the oil filter for your four cylinder vehicle comes with one o-ring instead of two then your vehicle takes the same wrench as a Prius or Corolla. If your oil filter comes with two o-rings & a drain tool then your oil filter cap takes the same wrench as the six and eight cylinder engines. Some companies claim their wrench works for all four cylinders but on the 2.5 liter engines that smaller wrench does not engage the teeth on the wrench to the tabs on the oil filter cap. It may work if your oil filter cap is not stuck but it is a poor choice. They are mislead.
I agree. I broke the OEM plastic oil filter cover and had to scramble to obtain a replacement. The closest AutoZone had a Dorman replacement, but alas, this unit had a nearly invisible casting void that cause oil to spray all over my garage floor. A second unit was unavailable from the first supplier, so I had to drive to a second AutoZone. The manager at that store allowed me to brak open the packaging and closely inspect it before leaving the store. The second Dorman part was usable, but I am considering buying a thired replacement so I have one in hand for the next event.
Toyota really screwed us with this oil filter design.
Just get a Baxter spin on adapter. These Toyota canister filters are garbage. The dealerships impact them on and you will fall victim to it if you ever have them touch your vehicle.
I was a fan of Toyota...that is until I owned one. This filter assembly is beyond ludicrous. Special tools to install and remove. And if you torque to specs, you're in for a treat. The blue shop paper did it for me. But the process still resulted in a cracked and useless filter assembly. This is right after our 17 Sienna just had a brake booster failure that nearly killed us.
Omg, I had tried everything and the tabs broke off revealing a pin hole, so I had to get this off. Your tapping and the peice of paper in the oil filter socket , Worked. 😁 Thanks so much.
Toyota drives me nuts. Good cars, bad service. That tool he's using, the oil filter wrench was 45$ at the dealership!! At AutoZone it was 9.99$
Get this, they don't even carry the correct wrench to remove the filter! Had to order the specific one (3 teeth on one side, 1 on the other) from dadgurn Amazon!
Ridiculous!
Thanks so much! A question on the 2012 camry pcv valve. Any advice? I saw videos with a method of valve removal from under ( instead of intake manifold removal). What about making an access hole (say 1-1/2 inch) through the front wheel well, just above the frame and near the strut tower, and cover it with a rubber grommet when finished? Many thanks!
i have found that when they get stuck from someone overtightening them or being on too long, they tend to come off easier if the engine is warm. tried a breaker bar on mine, but it was mangling the filter wrench cap so i switched to the large nut on filter cap and an impact wrench and that made it break free a lot easier than breaker bars.
I put a bit of silicone grease on the end of housing, threads and o ring and that seems to help a lot in having it come off easily but of course the key thing is keep it away from idiots at Toyota dealers who tighten it with an impact wrench it barely needs any tightening there is no end seal just an o ring on side it won't come loose the o ring keeps it from moving.
I had one that was severely stuck on. It was the plastic kind on a 2016 scion IM. Nothing was working and then the owner of the car suggested a thin strip of sandpaper. I cut a strip of sandpaper about an inch wide and about 4 inches long wrapped the sandpaper side around the filter housing and then hammered on the socket with a dead blow hammer. I got grip and it came off. I decided to replace the housing with a brand new one that had not been rounded off.
The blue shop towel on top of the release tool worked thank you so much! It was hard to get the tool off afterward, my oil filter was really impacted on there.
Had this happen, To get it off use some self-tapping screws and screw the removal tool to the filter. Use big screws, but be careful not to damage the actual motor/threads. Then use a cheater pipe to help get it off.
I agree that sometimes it's due to over tightening it's really easy to get happy with a wrench putting the new one on
I hope anyone that experiences the sheer difficulties of removing these would have enough common sense not too 🙏🔧
Thank you, thank you, thank you! Paper trick did it. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge!
The paper shop towel did it! I did the tapping to start and with the plastic housing being worn, this was key! Thanks, Gerard!
I used a shop towel, a breaker bar, a cheater bar and a floor jack to keep pressure on it to break the seal. Couldn't believe how tight the plastic housing was installed.
This worked out so well for my 18 rav4 after we had it changed at a lube place that overtightened it. Then it broke when I tried to remove it. Used sandpaper instead of paper
Paper towel worked for me!! After hours of trying, I used the paper towel and it came off quick (with a lot of force)
Thanks worked perfectly
That paper trick worked perfect, thanks for the video!
toyota oil filter cap design and placement of oil filter on rear of engine is absolute garbage. It takes me 10 times as much time to do oil/ filter change on Toyota as other cars with simple standard oil filter in front of the engine where it's easy to reach.
August 2022. 220 grit sandpaper in filter wrench and hallelujah. Thanks
That is why you should never use metal filter case/ housing on those cars that were originally equipped with plastic housing.
I hope there is a special place in hell for the mechanics that over tighten these housings. No consideration for the do it yourselfer trying to remove it a few months later.
Thanks, that did the trick; I thumped it as you indicated and then I was able to get the filter out
I did one at work today but I did got it off, thanks for sharing I’ll try your new method next time.
Thank you for this video!! I had a stick plastic housing and it cracked with the removal tool. I put the piece of paper in and was able to remove the housing without any more damage.
I just broke my plastic housing ugh!!! I also used this method. Put a paper in between the tool and filter and tapped it and it broke loose!!! Horrible design crazy!!!
Giving it a tap w the hammer worked great and a breakbar w socket thank you 💯