I've watched a ton of these how to videos and you are the only one that installed the lower O ring and cap onto the filter housing while it's on the bench.
Yeah and thats why his was leaking. the lower O ring never leaks unless it's not torqued to 9 ft lbs. it's easier and more accurate to do it on the car.
I just purchased that same part for my 2016 4Runner. I went looking for a youtube video that showed how to swap out the metal tubes and found this one. Swapping the tube is really simple once you know how. Thanks for sharing.
the last number at end for filter is the size of filter. you should be able to buy the model filter housing with right length tube for your model vehicle, so you don't have to switch it that tube acts as the bypass valve, so it has to be the right length. I like to put silicone grease on the threads and very end of housing and the o rings they recommend oil. so, they don't get stuck, but the most important thing is these housings barely need to be tightened the seal is not at end so even loose it won't leak.
Good video. I was always wondering about the tabs from other videos and thought it was the four small ones inside of the housing that had to get bend but you did an awesome job of showing and explaining which ones to bend.
Yes, excellent video on how to add the taller inside oil tube into the metal filter housing and bending the tabs flat. Its unclear elsewhere I have looked. Thanks.
D is the best Toyota/ Lexus mechanic with his online instructions. He specifically states not to modify or change the center pipe on the oil canisters. In doing so it will damage the oil bypass spring.Toyota should have a metal oem canister available specifically designed for the 4Runner
Great video, I did this mod 2 years ago and am very happy with the metal housing, the plastic one is so brittle and easy to crack, the aluminum housing is much more sturdy and gives some piece of mind
I don’t feel good about swapping the tubes. Don’t want to affect my bypass pressure and potentially end up with a lot of my oil bypassing the filter and prematurely wearing out my engine. I just keep a spare “plastic” housing on hand.
You are correct. Why mess with the plastic housing when it was engineered and it works. I would just hope nothing goes wrong with the metal post and damage the engine. The car nut guy had an episode regarding the tampering swapping out the metal post. Not recommended.
that keeps it from unscrewing it seals on the side with o ring not at end, so you are supposed to just barely tighten it they won't leak if it is not crazy tight. everyone way overtightens them like filters with seal on end of filter.
I have wondered the very same thing. While I truly don't know the answer, I respectfully doubt that its function is to somehow prevent the filter housing from unscrewing. If that were true, wouldn't the aluminum filter housing have one, too? I honestly don't know what purpose the little dingus serves, but I don't think there's a snowball's chance in a hailstorm that the metal-clip-dingus-thingy is going to prevent the filter housing from unscrewing. That said, I'd love to be enlightened about the matter. If anybody out there knows the actual role of that clip, I'd be genuinely grateful if you'd set me straight on the matter.
Even though the original plastic housings are supposed to be extremely tough, sometimes they aren't tough enough to survive having the O-Rings reinstalled without lubrication or put on incorrectly out of their groove or the canister being tragically over tightened by uncaring gorillas and then having to be really brutalized at the next oil change interval, with breaker bars and such, just to then get them off, which often cracks them that way too. Toyota should have given us the aluminum metal ones as factory issue to begin with if they wanted us have half a chance in avoiding a potential oil leak disaster but, Hey, not Toyota's problem I guess, right?
I have done this and so far running great. But not sure on the longevity as the locked tab is broken now for the standing tube. According to toyota experts, the housing is no good after that.
@@ryanm4013 I think the reason they say that is more geared towards the bypass relief valve not functioning properly once you break the tabs. The valve is calibrated at a specific psi to open in case the oil needs to bypass the filter in an emergency but once you do this mod, they say you risk messing it up. I haven't researched this in depth but came across it in the car care nuts video. He is a Toyota Master Technician for over 10 years. I'm not saying he's right or wrong I'm saying that's the reason I heard and I want to research it more.
@Paul Haven't removed it myself yet but the price of a housing is way cheaper than the cost of an engine that is short lived because of dysfunctional bypass function. From what I'm seeing, many are saying it gets the way you described because many over torque the plastic housing. I can't tell you one way or the other, in 700+ miles this will be literally my first oil change. It was covered for 2 years under Toyota but now it's time for me to maintain my baby myself.
Watch the Car Care Nut video. If you do changes properly (yourself or tech) no reason to swap to aluminum housing. And - maybe- after bending the tabs nothing happens but you’ve compromised those tabs regardless. Seems like a good mod to do but sometimes the engineers do know what they are doing :)
I agree with @silverrunner8… and as per CarCareNut, I’ve gone back to using the OEM plastic. I don’t want to risk the bypass valve not working if it’s needed.
I had to go with the metal one because the last person screwed on the plastic housing so tight that i broke it unscrewing it. i did not switch over the tube. so far, no leaks.
TCCN pointed out that when you removed the tube and the spring, you damaged the filter housing and the bypass valve. Your video shows that the tube is loose in the housing after you switched it. That is a huge red flag
Ey buddy I have issues with my oil housing too . I already changed the oil 3 days ago. To change the housing do I have to drain the oil or just the oil cup? Thank you for your information.
I switched from the Toyota filter to the amsoil filter clearly the amsoil has a superior flow over the Toyota I have a 2021 tundra and RAV 4 and corolla all of which I use ANSOIL FILTER and PENSOIL ULTRA OIL
The 2022 & 2023 4Runner oil filter lock tab on the plastic housing doesn’t go past the alignment protrusion. It’s clocked 1/4 spin before the lock tab and stops. Make sure you lubricate the large O-Ring and it’s in the proper spot per oil filter box to avoid pinching. Spin the filter housing using the cup tool and 8” ratchet until it nearly bottoms and then a slight slow snug. Memorize the mark and paint it with a glowing nail polish for future reference stop point. Add 6.5 qt of engine oil and run for 5 minutes to check for leak on the filter housing of oil leak before putting back the gravel shield.
There is no torque spec. On the plastic housing for me and it will bottom out and stop; no need to put in any additional strain on the housing as it will stress the threads. With the new O-ring installed and lubricated it’s pretty hard to remove it 5 months down line and trust me it will never back out. I been spinning wrenches for over 3 decades professionally and it’s called finger power. 2014-2023 all the same. I’ve owned 3, 5th Gen 4Runners from new and have done over 60 oil changes. I just searched google and it says: “Nov 6, 2019 - 18 ft lb for the housing, 9 ft lb for the drain on the bottom of the housing.”
Jake way to go, now if there is any way to mess thing up i will find it, that front shield that set on top of the filter? Bolts out (2) and it will just drop? ok got it, thanks............BB
Still don’t understand why Toyota went from traditional spin on oil filters to these , must have been a bean counter decision, the current cartridge design is terrible, shame on Toyota
the original toyota plastic filter housing will last the life of the vehicle if proper filter removal tool is used. If you have to replace it use original toyota , the after market housings are junk.
Good info. The only part you missed is you need to lube the o-rings to avoid warping or breaking the o-rings when tightening.
I've watched a ton of these how to videos and you are the only one that installed the lower O ring and cap onto the filter housing while it's on the bench.
Yeah and thats why his was leaking. the lower O ring never leaks unless it's not torqued to 9 ft lbs. it's easier and more accurate to do it on the car.
Great info. Thank you. I always lube the o-rings with oil.
I just purchased that same part for my 2016 4Runner. I went looking for a youtube video that showed how to swap out the metal tubes and found this one. Swapping the tube is really simple once you know how. Thanks for sharing.
the last number at end for filter is the size of filter. you should be able to buy the model filter housing with right length tube for your model vehicle, so you don't have to switch it that tube acts as the bypass valve, so it has to be the right length.
I like to put silicone grease on the threads and very end of housing and the o rings they recommend oil. so, they don't get stuck, but the most important thing is these housings barely need to be tightened the seal is not at end so even loose it won't leak.
Good video. I was always wondering about the tabs from other videos and thought it was the four small ones inside of the housing that had to get bend but you did an awesome job of showing and explaining which ones to bend.
Yes, excellent video on how to add the taller inside oil tube into the metal filter housing and bending the tabs flat. Its unclear elsewhere I have looked. Thanks.
My last two rigs were Lexus, both came with metal housings factory. I guess I’m spoiled. Lol! Thanks for the video, I’ll be upgrading
D is the best Toyota/ Lexus mechanic with his online instructions. He specifically states not to modify or change the center pipe on the oil canisters. In doing so it will damage the oil bypass spring.Toyota should have a metal oem canister available specifically designed for the 4Runner
I like the magpul P mag in the background
Great video, I did this mod 2 years ago and am very happy with the metal housing, the plastic one is so brittle and easy to crack, the aluminum housing is much more sturdy and gives some piece of mind
Peace of mind alone is enough reason to do this.
I don’t feel good about swapping the tubes. Don’t want to affect my bypass pressure and potentially end up with a lot of my oil bypassing the filter and prematurely wearing out my engine. I just keep a spare “plastic” housing on hand.
Exactly, if you have to do this it isn't the right part.
Yea I’m not doing this anymore. Seems suss.
TCCN advises against it.
You are correct. Why mess with the plastic housing when it was engineered and it works. I would just hope nothing goes wrong with the metal post and damage the engine. The car nut guy had an episode regarding the tampering swapping out the metal post. Not recommended.
It's approved by Toyota and that is the part they send you if the plastic one breaks. @@tommisera3816
Mine broke and they put the metal one in, but they didn't put the middle part where I can get it?
What is the extra metal clip on the old plastic housing for?
that keeps it from unscrewing it seals on the side with o ring not at end, so you are supposed to just barely tighten it they won't leak if it is not crazy tight. everyone way overtightens them like filters with seal on end of filter.
I have wondered the very same thing. While I truly don't know the answer, I respectfully doubt that its function is to somehow prevent the filter housing from unscrewing. If that were true, wouldn't the aluminum filter housing have one, too? I honestly don't know what purpose the little dingus serves, but I don't think there's a snowball's chance in a hailstorm that the metal-clip-dingus-thingy is going to prevent the filter housing from unscrewing. That said, I'd love to be enlightened about the matter. If anybody out there knows the actual role of that clip, I'd be genuinely grateful if you'd set me straight on the matter.
Even though the original plastic housings are supposed to be extremely tough, sometimes they aren't tough enough to survive having the O-Rings reinstalled without lubrication or put on incorrectly out of their groove or the canister being tragically over tightened by uncaring gorillas and then having to be really brutalized at the next oil change interval, with breaker bars and such, just to then get them off, which often cracks them that way too. Toyota should have given us the aluminum metal ones as factory issue to begin with if they wanted us have half a chance in avoiding a potential oil leak disaster but, Hey, not Toyota's problem I guess, right?
I have done this and so far running great. But not sure on the longevity as the locked tab is broken now for the standing tube. According to toyota experts, the housing is no good after that.
My housing has lasted over 8 years. I wouldn’t bet my life that the plastic one would last that long!
@@ryanm4013 I think the reason they say that is more geared towards the bypass relief valve not functioning properly once you break the tabs. The valve is calibrated at a specific psi to open in case the oil needs to bypass the filter in an emergency but once you do this mod, they say you risk messing it up. I haven't researched this in depth but came across it in the car care nuts video. He is a Toyota Master Technician for over 10 years. I'm not saying he's right or wrong I'm saying that's the reason I heard and I want to research it more.
@Paul Haven't removed it myself yet but the price of a housing is way cheaper than the cost of an engine that is short lived because of dysfunctional bypass function. From what I'm seeing, many are saying it gets the way you described because many over torque the plastic housing. I can't tell you one way or the other, in 700+ miles this will be literally my first oil change. It was covered for 2 years under Toyota but now it's time for me to maintain my baby myself.
Watch the Car Care Nut video. If you do changes properly (yourself or tech) no reason to swap to aluminum housing. And - maybe- after bending the tabs nothing happens but you’ve compromised those tabs regardless. Seems like a good mod to do but sometimes the engineers do know what they are doing :)
I agree with @silverrunner8… and as per CarCareNut, I’ve gone back to using the OEM plastic. I don’t want to risk the bypass valve not working if it’s needed.
Does this fit up to 2022 Toyota 4runner?
Does this fit the 2016 sr5 4runner?
Yes.
I had to go with the metal one because the last person screwed on the plastic housing so tight that i broke it unscrewing it. i did not switch over the tube. so far, no leaks.
Thank you so much. I’m doing this upgrade right now.
Thank you for the up close installation vid very helpful!!!
The amazon link takes to the page with the cap that looks exactly the same (p/n 15620-31060) BUT it says it doesn't fit 2018 4Runner 4.0. Does it?
TCCN pointed out that when you removed the tube and the spring, you damaged the filter housing and the bypass valve. Your video shows that the tube is loose in the housing after you switched it. That is a huge red flag
Ey buddy I have issues with my oil housing too .
I already changed the oil 3 days ago.
To change the housing do I have to drain the oil or just the oil cup?
Thank you for your information.
No need to drain oil pan, just the filter
You don't have to pry anything. You should be able to push the tube down against the spring pressure and turn.
That any body know is this will work on Tacoma 2022 Tacoma ?
Yes it works on a third generation Tacoma. And the centre metal tube is already the right size so you don’t have to swap it out.
Save yourself the aggravation of the stock toyota filter change drama and convert to a Baxter performance spin on filter adapter. Amazing bit of kit.
For $200+ , no thanks
good information thank
I switched from the Toyota filter to the amsoil filter clearly the amsoil has a superior flow over the Toyota
I have a 2021 tundra and RAV 4 and corolla all of which I use ANSOIL FILTER and PENSOIL ULTRA OIL
What do you torque it too?
The 2022 & 2023 4Runner oil filter lock tab on the plastic housing doesn’t go past the alignment protrusion. It’s clocked 1/4 spin before the lock tab and stops.
Make sure you lubricate the large O-Ring and it’s in the proper spot per oil filter box to avoid pinching. Spin the filter housing using the cup tool and 8” ratchet until it nearly bottoms and then a slight slow snug. Memorize the mark and paint it with a glowing nail polish for future reference stop point.
Add 6.5 qt of engine oil and run for 5 minutes to check for leak on the filter housing of oil leak before putting back the gravel shield.
First, you never answered the question, what is the torque spec. Second, I have a 2020 4Runner. Thank you.
There is no torque spec. On the plastic housing for me and it will bottom out and stop; no need to put in any additional strain on the housing as it will stress the threads. With the new O-ring installed and lubricated it’s pretty hard to remove it 5 months down line and trust me it will never back out. I been spinning wrenches for over 3 decades professionally and it’s called finger power. 2014-2023 all the same. I’ve owned 3, 5th Gen 4Runners from new and have done over 60 oil changes.
I just searched google and it says:
“Nov 6, 2019 - 18 ft lb for the housing, 9 ft lb for the drain on the bottom of the housing.”
Man really thank you 👍
Great video! Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you. Good.
Good sho bro.. metal for long term
The threads looks shorter on the aluminum one!!
You should care about the oe oil filter. Many vids on here show a twisted filter upon removal
I replaced with the TRD Pro oil filter, much better quality and seals on end caps much better. Startup is now noticably quieter than with oem filter.
According to Amazon and a Toyota Parts website, this does not fit a 2022 4Runner TRD Off-Road. What am I missing here?
Jake way to go, now if there is any way to mess thing up i will find it, that front shield that set on top of the filter? Bolts out (2) and it will just drop? ok got it, thanks............BB
my filters dont come with the small o-ring....why tf did everyone tell me to buy yzza3....I have 20 of them now for no f'ing reason
Upgrade? Or just another unnecessary spending?
Just called dealership anyone wanna guess how much the 5th gen 4Runner 4.0 metal oil filter housing replacement is?!
someone needs to make a spin on conversion, I haven't seen a car built since the 60s that still uses this type of filter.
That metal housing is junk!!!
I changed mine to a spin on oil filter.
It’s the only thing I have found that was not very well thought out.
Don’t do this please! By removing the tube you can end up messing the bypass spring relieve. The tub is there to be permanently and not to be removed
I don’t understand why this is so popular to swap these out. Please tell me why, other than you like to piss away money for no reason.
Still don’t understand why Toyota went from traditional spin on oil filters to these , must have been a bean counter decision, the current cartridge design is terrible, shame on Toyota
Stupid idea from Toyota. Eventually they will go back to a canister type filter, once they pull their head out.
Terrible idea. The metal filter housing and the oil pan are dissimilar metals. They will corrode. Stick with the plastic housing.
The plastic housing never fails anyway so what's the point? Stick to the original.
the original toyota plastic filter housing will last the life of the vehicle if proper filter removal tool is used. If you have to replace it use original toyota , the after market housings are junk.
Don’t do this. Stick with plastic.
For what reason?
@@j.frankparnell6195you will messed up the bypass spring. This canister is only meant for a certain to Toyota cars
There’s a lot wrong with this video when it comes to ‘doing it correctly’.
Does this fit 2018 TRD off road premium 4Runner?
From 2010 to 2024 all 4runners have the same engine so your answer is yes.