Nice video. I just want to be specific with my question. Changing the filter cap with the one on camry’s, is the filter element to be used is still for the forerunner? Coz I dont have any idea if the element is the same with the camry’s..,cheers bro!
that's an excellent question, and I should have been more specific in my video. ANSWER: Yes, the filter cartridge that does the filtering of the oil is the EXACT SAME as the the one originally used on the 4RUNNER. All we changed out in the video was the external housing that allows access to and holds this filter cartridge. I apologize for the confusion, and I'm very glad you pointed that out!!! Cheers! - Mark
@@TrailorSailYT The drain metal cover that you unscrewed first to drain did you just transfer it to the new metal housing? Or you have to buy a new one? Thanks
With the amount of people who say they have problems with the oil filter housing getting over tightened I'd personally use the plastic one cause id hate to see what could happen if the metal one got over tightened! It would be better to see the plastic one break and get replaced instead of the metal one doing worse damage to where it is screwed into.
Worked great! I was able to swap/trade the aluminum oil filter housing from my 2010 RAV4 V6 to my new 4Runner. You definitely will need a foil baking pan (unless you have 2 oil catch pans) to catch the oil. You simply remove the oil filter housing with the engine cold from the RAV4 while it's parked on the ground, and catch all the oil from the housing. No oil leaks or flows out of the engine while it's still filled with oil. Swap the parts, reuse the RAV's oil filter element and seals for the time being, and reinstall. Then pour the recovered oil back into the engine. I don't recommend swapping the oil filter housing from a donor V6 Toyota car unless the donor car is within 200 miles of its oil maintenance, at which point it will get a new filter and o-rings. Just did it today.
Of all the vehicles I've owned that I miss - the 2006 Toyota RAV4 with the 2GR-FE V6 and 4WD is probably the vehicle that I miss the most. So much power, so much space, so easy to handle - it was truly a jack of all trades.
I think so. I think that it really was a problem for me due to some one else doing an oil change didn't care. They over torqued it and gummed up the latch points for the wrench.
@@TrailorSailYT As long as torque specs are followed the plastic unit should last the lifetime of the vehicle. Oil filter housing cap = 25 N•m (18 ft.lbs.) Oil filter housing drainbolt = 12.5 N•m (9 ft.lbs.)
When replacing the plastic cover with the new metal one remember!....Use a little anti seize on the threads. Guarantees it wont bond to the oil filter housing through electrolysis from the different metal compositions. Also guarantees easy removal for the next oil change.
@@jeffmerz3595 doesn't matter the torque. If 2 different types of metal have a reaction they will seize. Seen it many times. Have to put some kind of lubrication between them to prevent it from seizing up. The metals will bond if you don't. Its why Toyota used plastic to begin with. But obviously plastics deteriorate over time and will need replacing at some point. This will last forever with proper installation and lubrication.
For the oil filter? No... I don't know how that would even work. All of the oil filters that I am aware of must be disposed of after they have been used.
@@charlespratt8663 Well, mine will never be over-torqued because no one changes my oil but me. (Torque spec is actually 18 ft.lbs. ±3.5 ft.lbs. and the drainbolt on the oil filter cap is half that). And as I understand it the aluminum oil filter caps have been known to break when over-torqued.
@@njsongwriter If the plastic one breaks it is sacrificial and doesnt take out the threads in the block. Better to loose a plastic cap than bugger those threads.
What do you recommend if where the 3 tabs would slot in, 2 of them broke off and the last tab is chipped on the plastic filter housing. I’m not able to remove it
I've see one video where after drilling holes through an oil filter cap wrench and through the oil filter cap they screwed the cap wrench to the oil filter cap and then removed it with a socket and breaker bar.
Yep - they do. The reason is to help eliminate waste and increase efficiency. These designs mean you are only "throwing away" the filter element itself and not a metal cartridge. This also makes the filters cheaper to produce. Furthermore, keeping the filter inside a metal house (as we upgraded to) helps keep the oil warmer in colder climates. This aids in filtering the oil properly as it flows better.
We've had those break or worse yet - suddenly "unsnap" from the housing. At that point it ends up being more of a mess than if you hadn't used anything.
@@TrailorSailYT Very odd. Never happens to me. Properly inserted you need pliers to pull it out afterwards. Most tech's dont bother with removing the plug. Just pull the whole assembly out.
@@charlespratt8663 To be honest.... I think its most likely user error, but that's also part of why I changed to the setup I have now - it works really well. I have done 7 oil changes with this setup with no leaks and a really fast turn around. I'll be doing number 8 this weekend. :)
I'd been going through the same aggravation for 5 years installing the plastic cartridge drain in our RAV 4 and not having the strength to compleely get it placed and of course getting oil running down my arm. But just last week saw a video of a fellow using his two thumbs on either side of the plastic drain to reasonably push it onto the canister. That seems like something worth trying if not using that fumato valve.
I want one of those oil filter drain hoses. I'm the world's worst to make a damn mess taking down a filter. Usually it runs right down my arm and on my shirt. Not so sure I trust the Fumoto drain valve though. You'd think Toyota would have the good sense to use metal filter housings from the factory.....an extra $25? A part that important needs to be metal, especially on an off road vehicle.
We've been running the fumoto valve for 2 years now. No issues. As for the filter housing, if you have the Toyota removal tool or the Motiv-X tool, it shouldn't be a problem, but we like the extra security of having a metal housing.
Glad the new RAV4 and Camry returned to spin ons. They are the same thread size as the classics 3/4-16tpi but the filter has a green adbv. Price is right too. Or it was......... hahahaha
Is there any remote mountable spin on filter kits for the newer runners? If not someone should make one! My 2007 FJM/T is soo much easier at changes. All because canister filters were deemed hazardous waste and probably threatened some rare endangered beetle .
@K looks like there is actually a kit from Baxter Engineering now that allows you to switch this assembly for a spin on filter... ruclips.net/video/62Ptx6n6d64/видео.html
@@cs6701 Mine are painted. The previous owner had them painted a light grey, and I've kinda just stuck to that. I have the Wide front skid. It offers a bit more protection for the low suspension components. You can see a really good photo of my skid on their website - its the one with the oil line coming out of the front. I also recently repainted them a darker grey that I am loving!
I'm sure a dealership would have no problem pointing out that any modification cause ________ problem and try to negate the warranty work needed. However, the dealership is also the ones that destroyed my original plastic cap... So, there is that. LOL
lmao it was a good thing I watched this before I did the oil change. Because me and the bros fucked it up by undoing the cap first. I told them not to. But eh, country hicks amiright? So we tried undoing the silver cap but couldnt and then it flew out of my hands and the oil filter housing undid itself and broke apart: tube came out, spring, and the washer. Tube was bent from impact so idk if the thing is still good or replace? Anyways I figured it out and got it back inside the housing and got my oil change done.
I think my best guess is that they were trying to reduce waste, but I agree with you... the oil change on the previous versions of the 1GR-FE in my old 4Runner and old Tacoma was much easier and much cleaner.
Agreed, huge mess and more potential points to break something or over torque it. Give me a spin one cartridge style filter any day. I find it laughable for Toyota to be putting a greener waste saving filter design on 4runners whose MPG is stuck in the teens. Spend some R&D money on giving us more MPG and HP and not on a crappy oil filter design.
Nice video. I just want to be specific with my question. Changing the filter cap with the one on camry’s, is the filter element to be used is still for the forerunner? Coz I dont have any idea if the element is the same with the camry’s..,cheers bro!
that's an excellent question, and I should have been more specific in my video. ANSWER: Yes, the filter cartridge that does the filtering of the oil is the EXACT SAME as the the one originally used on the 4RUNNER. All we changed out in the video was the external housing that allows access to and holds this filter cartridge. I apologize for the confusion, and I'm very glad you pointed that out!!! Cheers! - Mark
@@TrailorSailYT The drain metal cover that you unscrewed first to drain did you just transfer it to the new metal housing? Or you have to buy a new one? Thanks
@@techiemarksman I believe I transferred it to the new filter assembly. If I remember correctly, I don’t believe the new assembly came with that plug.
Loving this new INTRO!!
Thanks! We hope to use a few different versions of this going forward.
This is such a cool little hack too, especially for those who change their own oil, a lot.
I definitely fall into that category. Going to be doing this again next weekend... ...because I drive way too much.
With the amount of people who say they have problems with the oil filter housing getting over tightened I'd personally use the plastic one cause id hate to see what could happen if the metal one got over tightened! It would be better to see the plastic one break and get replaced instead of the metal one doing worse damage to where it is screwed into.
Worked great! I was able to swap/trade the aluminum oil filter housing from my 2010 RAV4 V6 to my new 4Runner. You definitely will need a foil baking pan (unless you have 2 oil catch pans) to catch the oil. You simply remove the oil filter housing with the engine cold from the RAV4 while it's parked on the ground, and catch all the oil from the housing. No oil leaks or flows out of the engine while it's still filled with oil. Swap the parts, reuse the RAV's oil filter element and seals for the time being, and reinstall. Then pour the recovered oil back into the engine. I don't recommend swapping the oil filter housing from a donor V6 Toyota car unless the donor car is within 200 miles of its oil maintenance, at which point it will get a new filter and o-rings. Just did it today.
Of all the vehicles I've owned that I miss - the 2006 Toyota RAV4 with the 2GR-FE V6 and 4WD is probably the vehicle that I miss the most. So much power, so much space, so easy to handle - it was truly a jack of all trades.
I decided to stick with the plastic housing when I replaced mine. As long as torque specs are followed I don't think it will be a problem.
I think so. I think that it really was a problem for me due to some one else doing an oil change didn't care. They over torqued it and gummed up the latch points for the wrench.
@@TrailorSailYT
As long as torque specs are followed the plastic unit should last the lifetime of the vehicle.
Oil filter housing cap = 25 N•m (18 ft.lbs.)
Oil filter housing drainbolt = 12.5 N•m (9 ft.lbs.)
@@njsongwriter Probably, but that's the problem - the torque specs were not followed by the dealership.
@@TrailorSailYT
Always change your own oil.
@@njsongwriter Yep
When replacing the plastic cover with the new metal one remember!....Use a little anti seize on the threads. Guarantees it wont bond to the oil filter housing through electrolysis from the different metal compositions. Also guarantees easy removal for the next oil change.
Although I haven't seen this happen to me, It's not a bad idea. The oil on the threads above the O-Ring has been more than enough for us.
Or just torque to specs, 18 ft lbs and you won't have any issues
@@jeffmerz3595 doesn't matter the torque. If 2 different types of metal have a reaction they will seize. Seen it many times. Have to put some kind of lubrication between them to prevent it from seizing up. The metals will bond if you don't. Its why Toyota used plastic to begin with. But obviously plastics deteriorate over time and will need replacing at some point. This will last forever with proper installation and lubrication.
Did this to my tundra, and doing the same swap on our 4runner in a couple weeks! 🤙🏽
Awesome video. Very educational. Thank you
Glad it was helpful! Anything that makes maintenance and daily living easier is a win in our book. :)
New spring and old tube? Or old spring and old tube go into the aluminum housing?
Old spring and tube go in the new housing.
why should change plastic Oil Filter Cap to metal？
Does K&N or another company make a washable filter?
For the oil filter? No... I don't know how that would even work. All of the oil filters that I am aware of must be disposed of after they have been used.
Why use old dirty oil on the o-ring? Why not a drop of new oil, that way no crud or piece of dirt gets on new rubber?
Good video tho
You could definitely do that too... I just have never seen any issues from doing it this way in the past 14 years.
Looking at RCI’s skid plates and the Fomoto valve they sell. Should be good to go right?
Dunno... I would think so, but I haven't looked at the RCI stuff in years (since getting the LFD plates).
Great video!
So what exactly is wrong with the plastic oil filter housing cap?
They tend to crack and leak if they are over torqued. You only need 18 ft lbs.
@@charlespratt8663
Well, mine will never be over-torqued because no one changes my oil but me. (Torque spec is actually 18 ft.lbs. ±3.5 ft.lbs. and the drainbolt on the oil filter cap is half that).
And as I understand it the aluminum oil filter caps have been known to break when over-torqued.
@@njsongwriter If the plastic one breaks it is sacrificial and doesnt take out the threads in the block. Better to loose a plastic cap than bugger those threads.
There’s nothing wrong with the original housing. The problem is with ham fisted mechanics using the wrong tools.
Yep. And I've had dealerships do me dirty with the original housing.
Good job...thanks!
Thanks for watching! : )
What do you recommend if where the 3 tabs would slot in, 2 of them broke off and the last tab is chipped on the plastic filter housing. I’m not able to remove it
I would take it to the dealership and ask for their best technician to have a look at it.
I've see one video where after drilling holes through an oil filter cap wrench and through the oil filter cap they screwed the cap wrench to the oil filter cap and then removed it with a socket and breaker bar.
@@njsongwriter I mean... I would do it... once. LOL
why would Toyota design such a complicated filter? do other car makers use this type of filter too?
Yep - they do. The reason is to help eliminate waste and increase efficiency. These designs mean you are only "throwing away" the filter element itself and not a metal cartridge. This also makes the filters cheaper to produce. Furthermore, keeping the filter inside a metal house (as we upgraded to) helps keep the oil warmer in colder climates. This aids in filtering the oil properly as it flows better.
What size extension drive did you use to take off the oil filter cap? And how long is that?
You will need a 3/8ths Inch square drive ratchet extension that is at least 10 inches long to comfortably and quickly remove the filter cap.
Just stick the plastic filter drain tool they give you into a wine bottle and push it into place. Easy and clean.
We've had those break or worse yet - suddenly "unsnap" from the housing. At that point it ends up being more of a mess than if you hadn't used anything.
@@TrailorSailYT Very odd. Never happens to me. Properly inserted you need pliers to pull it out afterwards. Most tech's dont bother with removing the plug. Just pull the whole assembly out.
@@charlespratt8663 To be honest.... I think its most likely user error, but that's also part of why I changed to the setup I have now - it works really well. I have done 7 oil changes with this setup with no leaks and a really fast turn around. I'll be doing number 8 this weekend. :)
I'd been going through the same aggravation for 5 years installing the plastic cartridge drain in our RAV 4 and not having the strength to compleely get it placed and of course getting oil running down my arm. But just last week saw a video of a fellow using his two thumbs on either side of the plastic drain to reasonably push it onto the canister. That seems like something worth trying if not using that fumato valve.
I want one of those oil filter drain hoses. I'm the world's worst to make a damn mess taking down a filter. Usually it runs right down my arm and on my shirt. Not so sure I trust the Fumoto drain valve though. You'd think Toyota would have the good sense to use metal filter housings from the factory.....an extra $25? A part that important needs to be metal, especially on an off road vehicle.
We've been running the fumoto valve for 2 years now. No issues. As for the filter housing, if you have the Toyota removal tool or the Motiv-X tool, it shouldn't be a problem, but we like the extra security of having a metal housing.
Where can I get the metal housing for the filter ?
We got ours from Amazon - ttps://amzn.to/3ehTVco
Glad the new RAV4 and Camry returned to spin ons. They are the same thread size as the classics 3/4-16tpi but the filter has a green adbv. Price is right too. Or it was......... hahahaha
I miss my 2016 RAV4 with the 2GR-FE engine for so many reasons.
Is there any remote mountable spin on filter kits for the newer runners? If not someone should make one! My 2007 FJM/T is soo much easier at changes. All because canister filters were deemed hazardous waste and probably threatened some rare endangered beetle .
Most of the vehicles I have seen oil changes on since 2015 have this similar design. I think this is just how things are going.
@K looks like there is actually a kit from Baxter Engineering now that allows you to switch this assembly for a spin on filter... ruclips.net/video/62Ptx6n6d64/видео.html
Great job on the vid…Switched mine out last year … How do like the LFD Aluminum skids?
We actually have the steel skids. :) ...and we love them!
@@TrailorSailYT Is yours still bare or did you paint it? It looks like bare aluminum in your video. Also is yours the standard or wide skid?
@@cs6701 Mine are painted. The previous owner had them painted a light grey, and I've kinda just stuck to that. I have the Wide front skid. It offers a bit more protection for the low suspension components. You can see a really good photo of my skid on their website - its the one with the oil line coming out of the front. I also recently repainted them a darker grey that I am loving!
Thanks for the info!
great idea as long as your not under warranty
I'm sure a dealership would have no problem pointing out that any modification cause ________ problem and try to negate the warranty work needed. However, the dealership is also the ones that destroyed my original plastic cap... So, there is that. LOL
@@TrailorSailYT They must know the are damaging it themselves at Toyota with over torque stress or is it just crap engineering?
lmao it was a good thing I watched this before I did the oil change. Because me and the bros fucked it up by undoing the cap first. I told them not to. But eh, country hicks amiright?
So we tried undoing the silver cap but couldnt and then it flew out of my hands and the oil filter housing undid itself and broke apart: tube came out, spring, and the washer. Tube was bent from impact so idk if the thing is still good or replace?
Anyways I figured it out and got it back inside the housing and got my oil change done.
Gotta be careful with the impact tools! 😁
cartouche gazoil Toyota Corolla
this newer concept is horrible compare to the old oil filters... I dont see the purpose of it... it is still a mess...
I think my best guess is that they were trying to reduce waste, but I agree with you... the oil change on the previous versions of the 1GR-FE in my old 4Runner and old Tacoma was much easier and much cleaner.
Agreed, huge mess and more potential points to break something or over torque it. Give me a spin one cartridge style filter any day. I find it laughable for Toyota to be putting a greener waste saving filter design on 4runners whose MPG is stuck in the teens. Spend some R&D money on giving us more MPG and HP and not on a crappy oil filter design.
Didn’t really need the music I’m the background. Obnoxious.