Big mistake putting an aftermarket filter housing on your Toyota. I've been driving 4Runners for almost 20 years and have never seen a broken plastic housing. Watch the car care nut channel and he explains why this is a terrible idea. Thanks for sharing and good luck with that modification.
Thanks I appreciate your perspective, we all have reasons for our choices, with the amount of information out there today, there are plenty of opinions to weigh and make the decision thats right for each of us.
TCCN, on his channel, explained in details that the moment you messed with central tubeless of the oil filter canister, the bypass valve is ruined and you have no choice but to get rid of the oil filter canister. The plastic canister is built with high quality plastic. The issue with them happens only when they over torqued, which many make that mistake and over torque the canister
I have a 2020 Tacoma with the plastic oil filter housing and never had issues with it. They are a quality Toyota product. They will last the life of your vehicle if you don’t over torque it.
Thanks for the video. Really helped. Just changed my girlfriend's oil on her 4runner. Man that front skid plate was such a pain to get detached. Took me twice as long as it takes to change the oil on my Tacoma.
look into "4runner cartrimhome skid plate". i bought one and i'm never looking back. if u don't have a way of changing your oil easily, you'll likely procrastinate too long. it's like $250, but that's cheaper than most after market skid plates. install is mildly challenging, but after you have it on, it's all down hill from there.
Great video. Big mistake switching the filter housing I’m a mechanic and I’ve seen original ones with 300k miles 0 problems. Problems arrive when you switch to an aftermarket one
I appreciate it, I am a mechanic too and sometimes eliminating a know potential issue is worth the chance, when I called the toyota dealership asking about the housing they were the ones who suggested switching to the aluminum one as the plastic ones after hundreds of thermo cycles can get brittle. I don’t think your wrong either way you go, this was just the path I took.
Yes the plastic rivets or push pins, when installed the pin is pushed in which spreads the body of the rivet and locks the pieces together to remove, just pull the pin outward which allows the rivet ears to come back into alignment and the while things slides out
@MontyPiper the ones on our 4 runner dont work that way, there is no ability to push it in and release it, they are friction controlled with two positions flush which is all the way in and expanded and the center pin pulled out which allows the rivet to release its tension and be pulled out
Nice vid! I own a 21 4Runner! Started doing my own servicing again after 15 years of having dealer/ lube places do it. Dealer did my oil change last and they torqued the heck out of the drain plug and oil filter cartridge super tight! I had to use the 1/2 inch ratchet breaker bar to loosen them both with almost all my strength! Ridiculous man! I purchased the MOTIV-X tool for the cartridge and glad I did because that thing grips very well especially for how much force I used to break cartridge loose! TCCN says never remove cartridge drain plug, just unscrew the whole thing and leave the cartridge drain plug be. I did just that!
Thanks, and I am not sure why they would put them on so tight, it really makes no sense, glad you got things un done, having to use a breaker bar is just proof the dealers dont always do the best service and the tool for the filter cartridge is def a must buy! Thanks for the comments!
@@FischerJeepAdventures hey man! I’ve owned my 21 4Runner since she had 44K miles, and now at 51K miles. I have noticed every time I take the RPMs really high to give it a good Italian tune up, there is a nasty smell in the cabin likely from the burn off of something, that goes away after airing out / cracking a window and getting good air through the cabin, is this typical in these 4 Runners? We have a 13 RDX and doesn’t have that smell and also most other vehicles we have owned I don’t recall experiencing that.. thanks!
@4Runner21 that is not normal but i have two thoughts for the culprit, it sounds like you have a small exhaust leak probably near the engine and when you step on it the air intake for the cabin pulls in the exhaust gases, it would be interesting to see if you put the ac/heat on recirculating meaning its only pulling air from inside the truck and then heavily accelerate and see if you still get the smell, if you dont then its an exhaust leak, if you still do then my best is your hatch seal is torn somewhere, when you step on it the foul smell from the exhaust pipe is from the catalytic converter, since like on other flat backed vehicles the air swirls in a loop as you drive from down where the tail pipe is to up to the roof air flows off in a constant circle, if the hatch and or the window is not sealed well you can get that nasty catalytic converter burning smell coming in. Those are my thoughts, so reciculating on the vent and make sure the window in the back is all the way up and the gasket on the hatch is not torn or missing in a spot so i would start there! Hope that helps!
His point on tightening the oil filter only snug s correct. Same goes for those silver plug, especially if you ever want to remove it again. If the silver were to fall out, the spring will prevent oil loss (remember the white piece that drains it). The filter housing seals as he said. Over tightening just makes it hard to removing (as he showed in the beginning). The housing is kept from loosening by a silver spring clip that stops rotation, but allows a wrench to remove it. Sealing is not improved by over tightening. Finally, of you choose to use the ‘free’ dealer service and then change the oil, as he did, you will inevitable find that the untrained, minimum wage knuckle draggers at the dealership will over tighten it just like their brothers do at the Quickey Lube.
Toyota wanted $150 for that aluminum filter housing? What dealer was that, i got one from Toyota parts depart for same price you paid for that Dorman junk, i use the factory plastic one, and the aluminum one is just a spare just in case.
It was haley toyota in richmond, guy was super nice about it, i will look up the toyota parts depot, if i can get a genuine toyota part its worth it for me, thanks!
Genuine Toyota plastic is better than aftermarket Dorman aluminum. The CarCarr Nut mechanic doesn’t recommend the aluminum filter housing. Just don’t over torque it. Once tightened just do 1/8 turn and that’s it.
I wish i had seen this video first. Apparently most have after market skid plates that dont hinge. That hinge plate is a pain in the ass. Next oil change I am cutting those off. Think it would be alot easier.
Have a 23 TRD off road, Switched to 5w30 full synthetic. All the vehicles I have that use 0w20 all started using oil very early with about 50-75000 km…..switched to 5w30 and I measure about 250ml between changes 4-5000km interval.
Thanks for the video. I did notice a little drip of oil on the oil filter housing little cap at The bottom. I just did my oil change on my 24 at 1K and a few days later I noticed it had a little drip similar to yours, I just retorqued it but haven’t checked it again. Is that something common you see every time ?
@rositahl absolutely and yes it is normal to get a little residue oil to collect at the bottom of the housing after changing the filter both the oil filter housing and the bottom cap have o rings that should have been replaced and they are what makes the seal. It should dry out after the residue either drips off or the heat makes it reduce, if you get under there and there is a obvious continual drip i would check those orings again, you can buy just the orings if you need them
Thanks for the comment, there is wide debate about this like most things where an opinion is the deciding factor, google will give you mixed results, in my opinion its customer choice especially when the filter is in a vertical plane, but the reality is there is plenty of residual oil left in the motor to prevent dry starts especially in modern engines, the oiling system is designed to prime the filer for the one start during the oil change cycle, and people who comment about engine wear on that one start, if you change your oil every 5k for 200,000 miles thats 40 starts vs the 10s of thousands of starts over its life, plus several manufactures recommend not doing it, caterpillar and cummins being two of the biggest. I do not think your wrong either way its really up to you
The Limited trim is a pain in butt to change the oil filter housing, because of the plastic air dam and the factory skid pan. I still struggle with the two front hooks on that skid pan every time. I'm tempted to just buy an aftermarket engine skid plate that has a little window cutout for the oil filter housing, like RCI. But not sure if this will cause any issue with not having the factory air dam. I don't really know what the air dam is for to be honest.
I am not sure either, there is a clear air path down from the grill through that plastic piece, what appears to funnel air through the mesh opening in the skid plate perhaps to help cool the oil pan?? But yea those hooks are a pain in the butt for sure to get reseated
Thanks for the video. I just purchase a 4Runner Limited. I have ~500 miles on it, how many miles do you recommend for the first oil change? I understand it should be done earlier in the process because of the break-in period. 1-2k miles seems appropriate. Like to know your thoughts.
I always do 1500 for the first oil change, in my opinion it allows all of the factory break in lubricant in the motor to do its job. Just something I have always done and it seems to work. I am sure there are plenty of opinions out there but thats mine! Congrats on the purchase
I tried for 10 minutes to get that front hinged skid plate totally off with no luck so had to hold it out of the way while draining the oil filter. I also agree with a previous comment, do not replace your plastic oil filter housing with a dorman or knock off brand. Car Car Nut channel has a good video on why this can be catastrophic to your engine. If you feel the need to replace the plastic cover with a metal one, replace with Toyota OEM only.
I don't take my skid plate completely off. After taking the 4 bolts out, it hangs down far enough to get to the oil filter okay. Minimal to no oil catches the plate when taking the filter out.
@googlesux666 letting it hang by the hooks works too, it takes out a step that arguably is the biggest pain. Not sure why they designed it that way, I guess if your changing oil from a pit or on a lift letting it hang makes no difference, but when your on your back in the driveway its not as easy to leave it!
My plastic filter housing was so seized, it was moving the whole engine block as I was trying to remove it. I end up using a heat, gun and liquid wrench and finally got it off after hours of struggling. 😂 It was on there so tight that it actually broke the metal removal tool I believe it’s 16 mm. I did the same and upgraded to the metal housing. I may fabricate a removable plate so I can access the oil filter easier. Similar to what they did for the actual oil pan bolt.
Wow, based on my experience too i think its more common than it rare for that plastic housing to provide issues. I found the factory toyota metal oil filter housing online and purchased it and swapped it foe the Dorman one when I changed the oil again, they were exactly the same one just has toyota stamped on it, anyway a access panel would be cool, I would be interested to see what you do if you get to that point! Thanks for the comment
@@FischerJeepAdventures The worst part of the seized filter housing, I purchased my 4runner from the Toyota dealership, few months back. They did an oil change and a full service on the vehicle when I bought it used. 31,500miles. The oil pan bolt was so tight it was almost seized as well. I was tempted to use heat, but I was able to get it to break loose with a breaker bar. Unbelievable a certified dealership mechanic would do that to both the oil pan bolt and filter housing. I will say I’ve been changing my oil for 20+ years and this vehicle is definitely the biggest hassle for an change lol. Still love the 4Runner though!
@eastwood111 well i am sad to say my experience was no different, we bought our 4 runner new and included was 3 oil changes at the dealer which we took advantage of and when i changed it the first time, I ran into my issues with the plastic filter housing seemingly almost welded to the motor, i truely wonder based in how it looked if they ever changed it because It looked like everything under there had never been touched. it is such a pain to get it all off, and yes we love the 4 runner too
So I got a guy with the 21 4 Runner who called me up after he couldn't get his plastic oil filter housing off and well they done damage it all up what was the easiest way for y'all to get it off
@Junebug981 the filter housing socket is the best way if they dont have that or they sheared all the tabs off a rubber filer strap wrench like this amzn.to/3wGwbOh or filter pliers like this amzn.to/4bqtEa0 should work
I think I am going to buy an aftermarket engine skid plate with a 4 bolt panel for the oil filter change. I think over the life of the vehicle I will thank myself. Toyota REALLY wants you to go to the dealer for oil changes.
Have you seen the drain plugs by ValvoMax? These make changing oil a clean job. J just bought a new 4Runner but just seeing how to do this job. I don’t think I even have 225 miles on it yet. I think I’ll jam a hose on the plastic thing you stuck in the filter. I’m also going to see if the Toyota dealer will do my 1st oil change at 1,000 miles. I’m way too anal. Great video, I have been under mine and didn’t know about all the skid plates, trap door, plastic push buttons, etc.
Thanks and yes I have heard of them, I have always been leery of those type of quick change plugs, I guess I have a fear of the valve or safety failing and draining all the engine oil out. I know folks use them with great success but i have never trusted them, the hose on the oil filter housing drain is a good idea, and yes taking everything off is a pain for sure!
@@FischerJeepAdventures ValvoMax has a ball check in it. When you install the included drain hose it pushes up on the ball releasing the oil. It also comes with a dust cap. I’ve had them on my wives Subaru Forester, GMC Savana and Ford Transit. I’ll search RUclips to see if anyone has every had a problem with them. If not I’ll be installing on my new 4Runner and the wife’s new Subaru Ascent. Thanks!
Plastic housings will break if you have incompetent people changing your oil. If you do it yourself like you do it will last the life of your car. And aftermarket to boot not good. If you’re worried about breaking it order an extra one and keep it for emergency. Just a thought
At the recommendation of everyone since i changed out the plastic one, I did purchase the metal toyota oil filter housing, the dorman lasted three oil changes with no issues at all, but i found a toyota housing for $30.00 so I bought it and installed it on the last oil change, I guess everyone thinks the dorman aluminum is cheaper than toyota but they looked the same to me, anyway your right if you use the right tool to take it off and do not overtighten it should last
Everyone seems to think so, but I have never had an issue or a failure with their parts and I have been working on vehicles for over 30 years, just my experience
Good video that big metal skid plate is a pain in the butt without the vehicle being on a lift.
Thanks, Yes it is for sure!!
Big mistake putting an aftermarket filter housing on your Toyota. I've been driving 4Runners for almost 20 years and have never seen a broken plastic housing. Watch the car care nut channel and he explains why this is a terrible idea. Thanks for sharing and good luck with that modification.
Thanks I appreciate your perspective, we all have reasons for our choices, with the amount of information out there today, there are plenty of opinions to weigh and make the decision thats right for each of us.
That's true
Toyota actually makes a metal housing. You still have to swap out the inner section but I prefer the metal over plastic myself also.
Yes i found the toyota housing and swapped it out on this last oil change
TCCN, on his channel, explained in details that the moment you messed with central tubeless of the oil filter canister, the bypass valve is ruined and you have no choice but to get rid of the oil filter canister. The plastic canister is built with high quality plastic. The issue with them happens only when they over torqued, which many make that mistake and over torque the canister
Thanks for the information
I have a 2020 Tacoma with the plastic oil filter housing and never had issues with it. They are a quality Toyota product. They will last the life of your vehicle if you don’t over torque it.
Thanks for the comment, Appreciate it!
Thanks for the video. Really helped. Just changed my girlfriend's oil on her 4runner.
Man that front skid plate was such a pain to get detached. Took me twice as long as it takes to change the oil on my Tacoma.
Good i am glad it helped, i appreciate the skid plates but why they had to make it so hard to get them off is beyond me
My sister uses her as a daily. It will never see a trail, I’ll put the plate back on when she sells it.
@brockelley09 that makes it easy then!
Your video helped me change my oil and filter in my 21 Limited. Not difficult, but it is a hassle for sure. Very helpful. Thanks!
Outstanding, glad it was helpful and your comment is spot on not difficult but a hassle!!! Thanks for checking out the video
look into "4runner cartrimhome skid plate". i bought one and i'm never looking back. if u don't have a way of changing your oil easily, you'll likely procrastinate too long.
it's like $250, but that's cheaper than most after market skid plates. install is mildly challenging, but after you have it on, it's all down hill from there.
Great video.
Big mistake switching the filter housing I’m a mechanic and I’ve seen original ones with 300k miles 0 problems. Problems arrive when you switch to an aftermarket one
I appreciate it, I am a mechanic too and sometimes eliminating a know potential issue is worth the chance, when I called the toyota dealership asking about the housing they were the ones who suggested switching to the aluminum one as the plastic ones after hundreds of thermo cycles can get brittle. I don’t think your wrong either way you go, this was just the path I took.
The only “mechanic” that says “oh” w-20. 🙄
Thanks that provided clarification and value for everyone who was confused
@ 3:00 aren't those the push pin clips? simply push in on the center button, then the clip lifts out. reset the button before reinstalling.
Yes the plastic rivets or push pins, when installed the pin is pushed in which spreads the body of the rivet and locks the pieces together to remove, just pull the pin outward which allows the rivet ears to come back into alignment and the while things slides out
@MontyPiper the ones on our 4 runner dont work that way, there is no ability to push it in and release it, they are friction controlled with two positions flush which is all the way in and expanded and the center pin pulled out which allows the rivet to release its tension and be pulled out
Nice vid! I own a 21 4Runner! Started doing my own servicing again after 15 years of having dealer/ lube places do it. Dealer did my oil change last and they torqued the heck out of the drain plug and oil filter cartridge super tight! I had to use the 1/2 inch ratchet breaker bar to loosen them both with almost all my strength! Ridiculous man! I purchased the MOTIV-X tool for the cartridge and glad I did because that thing grips very well especially for how much force I used to break cartridge loose! TCCN says never remove cartridge drain plug, just unscrew the whole thing and leave the cartridge drain plug be. I did just that!
Thanks, and I am not sure why they would put them on so tight, it really makes no sense, glad you got things un done, having to use a breaker bar is just proof the dealers dont always do the best service and the tool for the filter cartridge is def a must buy! Thanks for the comments!
@@FischerJeepAdventures hey man! I’ve owned my 21 4Runner since she had 44K miles, and now at 51K miles. I have noticed every time I take the RPMs really high to give it a good Italian tune up, there is a nasty smell in the cabin likely from the burn off of something, that goes away after airing out / cracking a window and getting good air through the cabin, is this typical in these 4 Runners? We have a 13 RDX and doesn’t have that smell and also most other vehicles we have owned I don’t recall experiencing that.. thanks!
@4Runner21 that is not normal but i have two thoughts for the culprit, it sounds like you have a small exhaust leak probably near the engine and when you step on it the air intake for the cabin pulls in the exhaust gases, it would be interesting to see if you put the ac/heat on recirculating meaning its only pulling air from inside the truck and then heavily accelerate and see if you still get the smell, if you dont then its an exhaust leak, if you still do then my best is your hatch seal is torn somewhere, when you step on it the foul smell from the exhaust pipe is from the catalytic converter, since like on other flat backed vehicles the air swirls in a loop as you drive from down where the tail pipe is to up to the roof air flows off in a constant circle, if the hatch and or the window is not sealed well you can get that nasty catalytic converter burning smell coming in. Those are my thoughts, so reciculating on the vent and make sure the window in the back is all the way up and the gasket on the hatch is not torn or missing in a spot so i would start there! Hope that helps!
@@FischerJeepAdventures I appreciate all this feedback! Ty man!
@4Runner21 absolutely, good luck with everything!
His point on tightening the oil filter only snug s correct. Same goes for those silver plug, especially if you ever want to remove it again. If the silver were to fall out, the spring will prevent oil loss (remember the white piece that drains it). The filter housing seals as he said. Over tightening just makes it hard to removing (as he showed in the beginning). The housing is kept from loosening by a silver spring clip that stops rotation, but allows a wrench to remove it. Sealing is not improved by over tightening. Finally, of you choose to use the ‘free’ dealer service and then change the oil, as he did, you will inevitable find that the untrained, minimum wage knuckle draggers at the dealership will over tighten it just like their brothers do at the Quickey Lube.
Well said!
Toyota wanted $150 for that aluminum filter housing? What dealer was that, i got one from Toyota parts depart for same price you paid for that Dorman junk, i use the
factory plastic one, and the aluminum one is just a spare just in case.
It was haley toyota in richmond, guy was super nice about it, i will look up the toyota parts depot, if i can get a genuine toyota part its worth it for me, thanks!
Genuine Toyota plastic is better than aftermarket Dorman aluminum. The CarCarr Nut mechanic doesn’t recommend the aluminum filter housing. Just don’t over torque it. Once tightened just do 1/8 turn and that’s it.
@Eatshhhushi thanks for the feedback and comment!
I wish i had seen this video first. Apparently most have after market skid plates that dont hinge. That hinge plate is a pain in the ass. Next oil change I am cutting those off. Think it would be alot easier.
Yes that would certainly make a difference!
Have a 23 TRD off road, Switched to 5w30 full synthetic. All the vehicles I have that use 0w20 all started using oil very early with about 50-75000 km…..switched to 5w30 and I measure about 250ml between changes 4-5000km interval.
Ok thanks for that thats great information to have, appreciate it!
Thanks for the video. I did notice a little drip of oil on the oil filter housing little cap at
The bottom. I just did my oil change on my 24 at 1K and a few days later I noticed it had a little drip similar to yours, I just retorqued it but haven’t checked it again. Is that something common you see every time ?
@rositahl absolutely and yes it is normal to get a little residue oil to collect at the bottom of the housing after changing the filter both the oil filter housing and the bottom cap have o rings that should have been replaced and they are what makes the seal. It should dry out after the residue either drips off or the heat makes it reduce, if you get under there and there is a obvious continual drip i would check those orings again, you can buy just the orings if you need them
I'm surprised nobody is commenting about how you should prefill that filter.
Thanks for the comment, there is wide debate about this like most things where an opinion is the deciding factor, google will give you mixed results, in my opinion its customer choice especially when the filter is in a vertical plane, but the reality is there is plenty of residual oil left in the motor to prevent dry starts especially in modern engines, the oiling system is designed to prime the filer for the one start during the oil change cycle, and people who comment about engine wear on that one start, if you change your oil every 5k for 200,000 miles thats 40 starts vs the 10s of thousands of starts over its life, plus several manufactures recommend not doing it, caterpillar and cummins being two of the biggest. I do not think your wrong either way its really up to you
The Limited trim is a pain in butt to change the oil filter housing, because of the plastic air dam and the factory skid pan. I still struggle with the two front hooks on that skid pan every time. I'm tempted to just buy an aftermarket engine skid plate that has a little window cutout for the oil filter housing, like RCI. But not sure if this will cause any issue with not having the factory air dam. I don't really know what the air dam is for to be honest.
I am not sure either, there is a clear air path down from the grill through that plastic piece, what appears to funnel air through the mesh opening in the skid plate perhaps to help cool the oil pan?? But yea those hooks are a pain in the butt for sure to get reseated
I agree, I tried to mess with the skid today and had a hell of a time. I believe it needs to be on a ramp like he had to get the angle.
@davidgonzales82 the ramps definitely make a difference!
Thanks for the video. I just purchase a 4Runner Limited. I have ~500 miles on it, how many miles do you recommend for the first oil change? I understand it should be done earlier in the process because of the break-in period. 1-2k miles seems appropriate. Like to know your thoughts.
I always do 1500 for the first oil change, in my opinion it allows all of the factory break in lubricant in the motor to do its job. Just something I have always done and it seems to work. I am sure there are plenty of opinions out there but thats mine! Congrats on the purchase
@@FischerJeepAdventures Thanks!
I tried for 10 minutes to get that front hinged skid plate totally off with no luck so had to hold it out of the way while draining the oil filter. I also agree with a previous comment, do not replace your plastic oil filter housing with a dorman or knock off brand. Car Car Nut channel has a good video on why this can be catastrophic to your engine. If you feel the need to replace the plastic cover with a metal one, replace with Toyota OEM only.
Sorry the skid plate gave you a fit and I appreciate the feedback on the oil filter housing
I don't take my skid plate completely off. After taking the 4 bolts out, it hangs down far enough to get to the oil filter okay. Minimal to no oil catches the plate when taking the filter out.
@googlesux666 letting it hang by the hooks works too, it takes out a step that arguably is the biggest pain. Not sure why they designed it that way, I guess if your changing oil from a pit or on a lift letting it hang makes no difference, but when your on your back in the driveway its not as easy to leave it!
Mines (2016 4runner) stripped two of the bolts trying to remove. They were rusted in / seized
@cgee2468 that sucks, hopefully they came out with some easy out sockets!
Ok F that. I'll pay the $80 at the dealer for this. Thanks.
Right on
Thank you.
Absolutely, thanks for checking out the video
My plastic filter housing was so seized, it was moving the whole engine block as I was trying to remove it. I end up using a heat, gun and liquid wrench and finally got it off after hours of struggling. 😂
It was on there so tight that it actually broke the metal removal tool I believe it’s 16 mm. I did the same and upgraded to the metal housing. I may fabricate a removable plate so I can access the oil filter easier. Similar to what they did for the actual oil pan bolt.
Wow, based on my experience too i think its more common than it rare for that plastic housing to provide issues. I found the factory toyota metal oil filter housing online and purchased it and swapped it foe the Dorman one when I changed the oil again, they were exactly the same one just has toyota stamped on it, anyway a access panel would be cool, I would be interested to see what you do if you get to that point! Thanks for the comment
@@FischerJeepAdventures
The worst part of the seized filter housing, I purchased my 4runner from the Toyota dealership, few months back. They did an oil change and a full service on the vehicle when I bought it used. 31,500miles. The oil pan bolt was so tight it was almost seized as well. I was tempted to use heat, but I was able to get it to break loose with a breaker bar. Unbelievable a certified dealership mechanic would do that to both the oil pan bolt and filter housing. I will say I’ve been changing my oil for 20+ years and this vehicle is definitely the biggest hassle for an change lol. Still love the 4Runner though!
@eastwood111 well i am sad to say my experience was no different, we bought our 4 runner new and included was 3 oil changes at the dealer which we took advantage of and when i changed it the first time, I ran into my issues with the plastic filter housing seemingly almost welded to the motor, i truely wonder based in how it looked if they ever changed it because
It looked like everything under there had never been touched. it is such a pain to get it all off, and yes we love the 4 runner too
So I got a guy with the 21 4 Runner who called me up after he couldn't get his plastic oil filter housing off and well they done damage it all up what was the easiest way for y'all to get it off
@Junebug981 the filter housing socket is the best way if they dont have that or they sheared all the tabs off a rubber filer strap wrench like this amzn.to/3wGwbOh or filter pliers like this amzn.to/4bqtEa0 should work
I think I am going to buy an aftermarket engine skid plate with a 4 bolt panel for the oil filter change. I think over the life of the vehicle I will thank myself. Toyota REALLY wants you to go to the dealer for oil changes.
I think thats a great option and one we are looking at too
What is the name of the aftermarket engine skid plate which you speak of?
Have you seen the drain plugs by ValvoMax? These make changing oil a clean job. J just bought a new 4Runner but just seeing how to do this job. I don’t think I even have 225 miles on it yet. I think I’ll jam a hose on the plastic thing you stuck in the filter. I’m also going to see if the Toyota dealer will do my 1st oil change at 1,000 miles. I’m way too anal. Great video, I have been under mine and didn’t know about all the skid plates, trap door, plastic push buttons, etc.
Thanks and yes I have heard of them, I have always been leery of those type of quick change plugs, I guess I have a fear of the valve or safety failing and draining all the engine oil out. I know folks use them with great success but i have never trusted them, the hose on the oil filter housing drain is a good idea, and yes taking everything off is a pain for sure!
@@FischerJeepAdventures ValvoMax has a ball check in it. When you install the included drain hose it pushes up on the ball releasing the oil. It also comes with a dust cap. I’ve had them on my wives Subaru Forester, GMC Savana and Ford Transit. I’ll search RUclips to see if anyone has every had a problem with them. If not I’ll be installing on my new 4Runner and the wife’s new Subaru Ascent. Thanks!
@danarussell4246 excellent, thanks for the info on them, I appreciate it and it will help others who may want to check them out
Plastic housings will break if you have incompetent people changing your oil. If you do it yourself like you do it will last the life of your car. And aftermarket to boot not good. If you’re worried about breaking it order an extra one and keep it for emergency. Just a thought
At the recommendation of everyone since i changed out the plastic one, I did purchase the metal toyota oil filter housing, the dorman lasted three oil changes with no issues at all, but i found a toyota housing for $30.00 so I bought it and installed it on the last oil change, I guess everyone thinks the dorman aluminum is cheaper than toyota but they looked the same to me, anyway your right if you use the right tool to take it off and do not overtighten it should last
You really need to learn how to pull he plastic clips out! Hint they are called PUSH pins😊.
Thanks for the hint, I would have never known what they were
PSA don’t buy the Dorman one it breaks. I would buy Dorman other products but not this product
Thanks for the comment
Dorman is crap.
Everyone seems to think so, but I have never had an issue or a failure with their parts and I have been working on vehicles for over 30 years, just my experience