I ran out of the glue making my second kayak and finished by painting & "sticking" the sheet on and painting over it. It was messy, but so was the glue. I wasn't sure if it would hold up over time, but 4 years later, I can't remember which kayak I glued and painted and whick kayak i just used "poor mans fiberglass" using just paint. I just wanted to share just in case anyone ran out of glue or wanted to save a few bucks. Great video. You did a good job keeping clean and explaining each step. Thanjs for sharing.
I tried it once but will never do it again. The glue layer becomes too thin, and you cannot reactivate it later on with the steam iron as well. Part of what o count on for attaching the fabric is that the glue tracks up (becomes thicker from drying and holds the fabric) quickly so I can move along with laying the fabric quickly. When I thinned the glue, it took much longer to tack up, and I wasted time by waiting. So.e people in very hot dry climates have found the glue tacked up way too fast, and used squirt bottles of water to keep it wet enough to get the fabric smoothed out
Just FYI. The Titebond II is not water proof. It's only "water resistant" according to the label. I suggest switching to Titebond III, which is actually "waterproof" and works well for waterproofing to stop rain or temporary wet situations, but for continous use on a boat hull, it will eventually absorb water so some extent and get mushy over time ( I found that out the hard way) I may work on foam , but not too well on plywood boat build.
Once cured TBII is water resistant enough for this application, because the foam itself is waterproof. Then the paint in the fabric is the real waterproofing. TBII sticks to dried TBII, and can be restuck with a steaming iron if it delaminates, something TBIII cannot
I want to try out this method for camper building/covering. Learning a lot from your facebook page. I was wondering if the choice of cotton cloth affects the strength of the finished product. Do you think light canvas drop cloth is better than cotton sheets? What about heavy canvas, is that best? Thanks for all this information. It's wonderful stuff.
For my foamie campers I used canvas, I only use bed sheets on the boats to save weight. Canvas stands up better to having my kids walk on the roof and stuff tied on for trips
@@rowerwet Thanks for that advice. Right now I am planning a camper on a pop up frame (like yours) that is 12 long by 6 wide. I want to give it a full inside height of 6 feet. I've been concerned about weight/wind ratio as I have read a few comments about the impediment of wind resistance. Moving towards covering the outside with a thin layer of fiberglass cloth and epoxy as the epoxy cost is down to $40 per gallon. My thinking is the epoxy will do a strong job of holding everything together, especially on the outside corners and in terms of weather. I'm in Northern Ohio, flatter than the North East, but still full of strong rain and snow storms. I will use the PMF on the inside to give a nice textured finish to the wall and decrease the flammability of the exposed foam board. I was planning on using foamular 150 (2 inch). Can you think of any reason to opt for foamular 250 instead? Thanks again for your time and reply. It was your camper and the PMF that really inspired this project. The much lighter weight is essential as I don't drive a massive pickup truck.
@@johnle231 foam walls, then wood spars to support the roof span and wooden door frames, no other wooden structure is needed. Two of The spars are supported by the door frames, the rest are only supported by being set into the foam walls.
@@rowerwet Thanks for your response. I’m looking to build a foamie camper with a nose over cab on a truck. Do you think foam and pmf is enough for nose to hold against wind resistance?
Hi there, since titebond is more or less the same price as regular 2 component epoxy in Bulgaria, do you think I could use that instead? And can i still use bedsheets or do i have to switch to fiberglass? thx
It's essentially inert. I store my kayaks outside, uncovered, on top of my firewood racks. House paint makers spend big money making their paint stand up to UV, and it works
@@tylercasey21 it's probably the easiest method around, I have many reports from people who never thought they could build a boat before, and now they're out paddling
It does just fine, I have a couple boats I built 5 or 6 years ago that are stored uncovered, outside, and they get regular use in the water. My attic roof hatch is also covered in this same kind of PMF. It's 10 years old now, and still doesn't need any new paint over the cheap Luan it's made from.
TBII is able to be softened by heat, and this allows you to restick areas that delaminate using a steaming hot iron. TBIII cannot. The paint is the waterproofing not the glue
Tip: Instead of glue you could use Glidden Gripper White Primer Sealer. It bonds exceptionally well with the foam. See: ruclips.net/video/rnOegaOKu38/видео.html
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Thanks for the close up of the glue to help gauge how much to use. Just started gluing the fabric last night. Looking forward to the results!
I ran out of the glue making my second kayak and finished by painting & "sticking" the sheet on and painting over it. It was messy, but so was the glue. I wasn't sure if it would hold up over time, but 4 years later, I can't remember which kayak I glued and painted and whick kayak i just used "poor mans fiberglass" using just paint. I just wanted to share just in case anyone ran out of glue or wanted to save a few bucks. Great video. You did a good job keeping clean and explaining each step. Thanjs for sharing.
@sharps1759 was your kayak made of foam or wood
@@johnle231 foam
@@sharps1759 the pink kind? Or white kind
Great job and good luck in the build can't wait to see it on the water
Glad you covered why not to thin the glue. I was curious if you had tried it and whether or not it worked.
I tried it once but will never do it again. The glue layer becomes too thin, and you cannot reactivate it later on with the steam iron as well.
Part of what o count on for attaching the fabric is that the glue tracks up (becomes thicker from drying and holds the fabric) quickly so I can move along with laying the fabric quickly.
When I thinned the glue, it took much longer to tack up, and I wasted time by waiting.
So.e people in very hot dry climates have found the glue tacked up way too fast, and used squirt bottles of water to keep it wet enough to get the fabric smoothed out
Just FYI. The Titebond II is not water proof. It's only "water resistant" according to the label. I suggest switching to Titebond III, which is actually "waterproof" and works well for waterproofing to stop rain or temporary wet situations, but for continous use on a boat hull, it will eventually absorb water so some extent and get mushy over time ( I found that out the hard way) I may work on foam , but not too well on plywood boat build.
Once cured TBII is water resistant enough for this application, because the foam itself is waterproof. Then the paint in the fabric is the real waterproofing.
TBII sticks to dried TBII, and can be restuck with a steaming iron if it delaminates, something TBIII cannot
I want to try out this method for camper building/covering. Learning a lot from your facebook page. I was wondering if the choice of cotton cloth affects the strength of the finished product. Do you think light canvas drop cloth is better than cotton sheets? What about heavy canvas, is that best? Thanks for all this information. It's wonderful stuff.
For my foamie campers I used canvas, I only use bed sheets on the boats to save weight.
Canvas stands up better to having my kids walk on the roof and stuff tied on for trips
@@rowerwet Thanks for that advice. Right now I am planning a camper on a pop up frame (like yours) that is 12 long by 6 wide. I want to give it a full inside height of 6 feet. I've been concerned about weight/wind ratio as I have read a few comments about the impediment of wind resistance. Moving towards covering the outside with a thin layer of fiberglass cloth and epoxy as the epoxy cost is down to $40 per gallon. My thinking is the epoxy will do a strong job of holding everything together, especially on the outside corners and in terms of weather. I'm in Northern Ohio, flatter than the North East, but still full of strong rain and snow storms. I will use the PMF on the inside to give a nice textured finish to the wall and decrease the flammability of the exposed foam board. I was planning on using foamular 150 (2 inch). Can you think of any reason to opt for foamular 250 instead? Thanks again for your time and reply. It was your camper and the PMF that really inspired this project. The much lighter weight is essential as I don't drive a massive pickup truck.
@@rowerwet
Did you use pure foam for camper or frame out first with wood or something?
@@johnle231 foam walls, then wood spars to support the roof span and wooden door frames, no other wooden structure is needed. Two of The spars are supported by the door frames, the rest are only supported by being set into the foam walls.
@@rowerwet
Thanks for your response.
I’m looking to build a foamie camper with a nose over cab on a truck. Do you think foam and pmf is enough for nose to hold against wind resistance?
Hi there, since titebond is more or less the same price as regular 2 component epoxy in Bulgaria, do you think I could use that instead? And can i still use bedsheets or do i have to switch to fiberglass? thx
Would gel coat boat paint stick to this as last coat?
I've never tried, that's more money than I would spend normally.
How has the pmf held together against sun light and heat from the sun?
It's essentially inert. I store my kayaks outside, uncovered, on top of my firewood racks.
House paint makers spend big money making their paint stand up to UV, and it works
Thank you for your reply! I'm very interested in building a kayak the same way you built yours.
@@tylercasey21 it's probably the easiest method around, I have many reports from people who never thought they could build a boat before, and now they're out paddling
did this hold up in the water
It does just fine, I have a couple boats I built 5 or 6 years ago that are stored uncovered, outside, and they get regular use in the water.
My attic roof hatch is also covered in this same kind of PMF. It's 10 years old now, and still doesn't need any new paint over the cheap Luan it's made from.
Nice. That uncapping roller is $32.00 cheaper
Why would you use Titebond II that is Water Resistant and not Titebond III that is Water proof.
TBII is able to be softened by heat, and this allows you to restick areas that delaminate using a steaming hot iron. TBIII cannot.
The paint is the waterproofing not the glue
@@rowerwet Ahhh, Thanks for the info.
Tip: Instead of glue you could use Glidden Gripper White Primer Sealer. It bonds exceptionally well with the foam. See: ruclips.net/video/rnOegaOKu38/видео.html
Except that you loose the ability to restick the fabric with an iron down the road, if it ever becomes delaminated
Poor mans audio equipment too.
Low budget, it isn't like I'm getting paid for any of this
@@rowerwet paid in seeing other people have fun.
Headphones