when I was growing up gpop covered several boats with pmf but he used oil based paint, he also made "rugs" using just the paint and canvas. Ive done it using latex house paint with good results and even done several layers of canvas and I make a water resistant papier mache' that feels like plastic when its dry, I made numerous props that stayed out in the weather year round with very minor damage. You could add structure to the coraboard to help stiffening but that could get as expensive as the wood glue
This stuff seems pretty promising. I had my doubts at first, but the glue and material seem to bond together pretty strongly. It does feel like a plastic. I may try a few variations on this to see what is best.
Exactly, that is what i been thinking about, different ways and different materials to make panelized parts. I agree, it will strengthen the foam as long as the glue adheres to the foam good, as long as you have no heat source too close to it like a internal combustion engine or exhaust pipes, etc... because you are using foam and once that inner foam begins to melt then your part will be toast. If the coroplast is too thin for you, then maybe we can laminate it and have 2 or more layers glued together depending on what you need for strength. You can do it with cardboard too, laminate 2 or more and it gets stronger. So, laminating these materials together might be a good option to try. I know the cardboard laminating works great, but i never tried the coroplast laminating yet, it might need a different glue, or if it is the right kind of plastic it can be welded to itself. But after laminating the materials to themselves, then laminate your outer cloth with your layers of glue and paint. IF you use cardboard try treating it like you're making plywood, cross the grains as you laminate, and also for more strength laminate bands around the edges in the z axis, in the horizontal axis after you laminated the 2 or more layers together. That way you have more strength in the x, y, and z, axis, and once you get your cloth, glue, and paint layers it will(should) out perform the foam. It will be heavier then foam, but it is an option if you need certain parts stronger than what the foam offers. I noticed at the end you showed us the bottom of your test panel and it was not laminated. Warning, laminate the bottom also before you do the tests. IT needs to be fully laminated top, bottom, and sides for it to get its strength, it will still bust like a piece of foam without laminating the entire thing. For example, if even just some good wind, or for sure a stream of water from a garden hose with decent pressure hit your finished side of the panel, it will snap just like a piece of foam does. The tension happens on the back surface of the panel when it is being compressed from the front, and since you never laminated it the back , it snaps like regular foam when taking compression force from the front. If you laminate the back too, it will be stronger in both tension and compression from both directions.
great video. I was interested in making a fake fireplace for my apartment a few years ago and experimented with foam, carpenters glue, and brown kraft paper. The paper bonded well to the foam. it was not as strong as fiberglass but was much stronger than the foam alone.
Thanks for the video luke. Always remember without fuel, fire or smoke cannot proceed. That foam will have to be lined with baking paper or a non stick lining then a silicon based fire resistant sealant or fire putty proceeded by your pmf. Once set remove foam and Reuse on next project then remove lining from silicon by sanding with course paper till you see the putty then finer paper till the colour of the putty shows stark but not sand so much you lose the thin layer of fire retardant. Remove dust off with air jet or dry paint brush outside always. Please dont forget gloves, goggles, and appropriate mask when using a sander or hazardous chemicals. Good luck and great channel. Also I love the t-shirts btw 🇺🇸🙏🏻🇬🇧
Great idea 👍 Made me think what something like Kydex would do, it looks pricey though about $250 for a 4x8 sheet but very strong and easy to work with, I mean most new holsters are made of it and last forever.. Still think I can use the PMF idea for projects around the farm... Thanks..
I never ended up using the poor mans fiberglass on the trike. There were other issues to deal with as the trike didn't meet with the requirements from the state. I would say either material would be sufficient for most things. It would probably come down to the texture you would prefer as the bed sheet can be made smooth easier than the drop cloth.
It will be interesting to see how this stands up to the tests you have in mind. I wonder if coating both sides of the foam would give it double the strength? 👍
That's actually what I will be trying. I put fabric on the other side of the sample. It has been suggested a couple of times. I also am trying bed sheet as material. They are almost completely dry, so I think today will be the test.
is it possible to use multi-layered cardboard or corrugated cardboard as a base (infill) ? ;-) I have a crazy idea (but not sure): build bicycle frame and even wheels with packaging cardboard multiple layers (with glue) and PMF over it. How do you think - is it possible?
I will be playing with other varieties of this concept. Kind of wish I would have tried this sooner. It would have made some of my projects a lot better.
Yall I made a trytoon boat out of foamular150 and pmf I used exterior house paint valspar I believe that was six years ago and this year I had to take a week and release sand and put two coats of paint on my boat it works. I get alot of looks & alot of laughs but my 8'X12' floating living room is tons of fun and all for less than 3k.
Some people are using foam and fiberglass window screen material. They fasten the pieces together with Gorilla glue and sheet rock screws for a temporary clamp. Then use Gripper primer paint for sticking the screen to the foam. ruclips.net/video/ucf2FVIdr1Q/видео.html
I've kind of had my doubts considering the materials, buy so far it seems stronger than I thought. The paint is still not fully cured though. I'll be testing it soon.
I think this could also be a great way to produce molds for real fiberglass parts too! If it worked out, it could save some $$ on that part of the project. If not, it would be great way to hone I your skills on making new s. Shapes/ parts without killing the wallet. I was thinking about reproducing some body panels for a rare car. This could aid in test fitting things.
when I was growing up gpop covered several boats with pmf but he used oil based paint, he also made "rugs" using just the paint and canvas. Ive done it using latex house paint with good results and even done several layers of canvas and I make a water resistant papier mache' that feels like plastic when its dry, I made numerous props that stayed out in the weather year round with very minor damage. You could add structure to the coraboard to help stiffening but that could get as expensive as the wood glue
This stuff seems pretty promising. I had my doubts at first, but the glue and material seem to bond together pretty strongly. It does feel like a plastic. I may try a few variations on this to see what is best.
Exactly, that is what i been thinking about, different ways and different materials to make panelized parts. I agree, it will strengthen the foam as long as the glue adheres to the foam good, as long as you have no heat source too close to it like a internal combustion engine or exhaust pipes, etc... because you are using foam and once that inner foam begins to melt then your part will be toast.
If the coroplast is too thin for you, then maybe we can laminate it and have 2 or more layers glued together depending on what you need for strength. You can do it with cardboard too, laminate 2 or more and it gets stronger. So, laminating these materials together might be a good option to try. I know the cardboard laminating works great, but i never tried the coroplast laminating yet, it might need a different glue, or if it is the right kind of plastic it can be welded to itself. But after laminating the materials to themselves, then laminate your outer cloth with your layers of glue and paint. IF you use cardboard try treating it like you're making plywood, cross the grains as you laminate, and also for more strength laminate bands around the edges in the z axis, in the horizontal axis after you laminated the 2 or more layers together. That way you have more strength in the x, y, and z, axis, and once you get your cloth, glue, and paint layers it will(should) out perform the foam. It will be heavier then foam, but it is an option if you need certain parts stronger than what the foam offers.
I noticed at the end you showed us the bottom of your test panel and it was not laminated. Warning, laminate the bottom also before you do the tests. IT needs to be fully laminated top, bottom, and sides for it to get its strength, it will still bust like a piece of foam without laminating the entire thing. For example, if even just some good wind, or for sure a stream of water from a garden hose with decent pressure hit your finished side of the panel, it will snap just like a piece of foam does. The tension happens on the back surface of the panel when it is being compressed from the front, and since you never laminated it the back , it snaps like regular foam when taking compression force from the front. If you laminate the back too, it will be stronger in both tension and compression from both directions.
great video. I was interested in making a fake fireplace for my apartment a few years ago and experimented with foam, carpenters glue, and brown kraft paper. The paper bonded well to the foam. it was not as strong as fiberglass but was much stronger than the foam alone.
It seems like that would be a perfect use for something like this, in fact the possibilities are endless.
Thanks for the video luke. Always remember without fuel, fire or smoke cannot proceed. That foam will have to be lined with baking paper or a non stick lining then a silicon based fire resistant sealant or fire putty proceeded by your pmf. Once set remove foam and Reuse on next project then remove lining from silicon by sanding with course paper till you see the putty then finer paper till the colour of the putty shows stark but not sand so much you lose the thin layer of fire retardant. Remove dust off with air jet or dry paint brush outside always. Please dont forget gloves, goggles, and appropriate mask when using a sander or hazardous chemicals. Good luck and great channel. Also I love the t-shirts btw 🇺🇸🙏🏻🇬🇧
Good point.
I've heard that or something like it can last quite a while and have more strength than expected. Hope it works.
I hope so too. I have gotten some ideas from the comments to try other methods. I think we will have a comparison of several types of materials.
I've saw this stuff used on mini-campers and it seems to hold up quite well.
I hope it will. Seems pretty strong so far.
Great idea 👍 Made me think what something like Kydex would do, it looks pricey though about $250 for a 4x8 sheet but very strong and easy to work with, I mean most new holsters are made of it and last forever.. Still think I can use the PMF idea for projects around the farm... Thanks..
Wow that is expensive. Wouldn't be that bad if you were making holsters out of it though. You could make a lot with a 4x8 sheet.
Liked,shared Mr Fugate. I hope this works well has things are priced almost out of reach for a working person these days. All my best.
Thank you. You are right everything is so expensive now.
I am curious to find out test results on this project.
Thank you for your time.
I never ended up using the poor mans fiberglass on the trike. There were other issues to deal with as the trike didn't meet with the requirements from the state.
I would say either material would be sufficient for most things. It would probably come down to the texture you would prefer as the bed sheet can be made smooth easier than the drop cloth.
It will be interesting to see how this stands up to the tests you have in mind. I wonder if coating both sides of the foam would give it double the strength? 👍
That's actually what I will be trying. I put fabric on the other side of the sample. It has been suggested a couple of times. I also am trying bed sheet as material. They are almost completely dry, so I think today will be the test.
Look forward to seeing how the testing goes !
Me too. I will have at least one more example to test along with this one.
Is there a follow up video? Can you put a link here coz i can't find it...
is it possible to use multi-layered cardboard or corrugated cardboard as a base (infill) ? ;-)
I have a crazy idea (but not sure): build bicycle frame and even wheels with packaging cardboard multiple layers (with glue) and PMF over it. How do you think - is it possible?
It is possible. PMF just needs a base to set up on. You could use just about anything as a base.
Made my own micarta a bit back with hessian and resin, worked well and crazy strong
I will be playing with other varieties of this concept. Kind of wish I would have tried this sooner. It would have made some of my projects a lot better.
Yall I made a trytoon boat out of foamular150 and pmf I used exterior house paint valspar I believe that was six years ago and this year I had to take a week and release sand and put two coats of paint on my boat it works. I get alot of looks & alot of laughs but my 8'X12' floating living room is tons of fun and all for less than 3k.
Some people are using foam and fiberglass window screen material. They fasten the pieces together with Gorilla glue and sheet rock screws for a temporary clamp. Then use Gripper primer paint for sticking the screen to the foam. ruclips.net/video/ucf2FVIdr1Q/видео.html
Thanks, Thats a good way to do it. I may try a few variations to see what holds up better.
If you sand between coats and give it three coats, it turns out as smooth as fiberglass and it is alot stronger.
Thanks! I'll try that next time.
Stronger than fiberglass?
@@Tonisuperfly It's pretty solid. I'd say it's close to being hard as fiberglass with three coats.
My guess is that it won't hold up well, but i sure won't mind if i'm wrong! Good luck!
I've kind of had my doubts considering the materials, buy so far it seems stronger than I thought. The paint is still not fully cured though. I'll be testing it soon.
Dilute the glue up to 50/50 with water and that works better than pure glue. It helps get the cloth wetted out.
Great tip. Thanks!
I think this could also be a great way to produce molds for real fiberglass parts too! If it worked out, it could save some $$ on that part of the project. If not, it would be great way to hone I your skills on making new s. Shapes/ parts without killing the wallet. I was thinking about reproducing some body panels for a rare car. This could aid in test fitting things.
That's a great idea.
🤔 💭🔎 Interesting Test Luke 👍🏼
Thanks! I hope it works well. I like the light weight of it.
I’ll be waiting for the Update!
Thumbs up buddy
Thanks 👍
They covered airplanes with canvas coated with something in WW1 and some of them in WW2.
It was probably something similar. I wonder if it would have been something more flexible so it wouldn't crack though.
Basalt fabric would work good cheaper that fiberglass hell of allot stronger
Good tip. It would be worth a try.
Get rid of foam and just do layers of cloth and glue
It has to have a backing to hold its shape until the glue dries. I have thought about using poster board foam so it is thinner.