I built a 750 square foot shop that I do woodworking in. How well do you think this would hold up to shop tools rolling around on it. Also, I have the large expansion joints in there and what would I do about those
Well......with the drying time can you please breakdown how this is a 1 day job? Even in thos video you guys were there for more then 1 day according to the sun and shadows and the fact you guys were in different clothes.
Great question. due to filming and doing another countertop job at the same time that's why we couldn't do this job in a day, but here's that breakdown: Grinding: took about 2 1/2 hours by hand. would be less than an hour with a walk-behind grinder Floor Patch: We got it all applied (2 batches) in less than ten minutes, grindable in 30 minutes. Took about 20 minutes to grind back smooth and then clean dust Moisture Seal: We got it out and applied in 15 minutes, then flaked the entire in in about 10 minutes. So from the time we mixed, to fully flaked, was just under 30 minutes. This coat cured in 3 hours (5 if it was colder, but it was about 85 that day) Scrape/Top Coat: as you saw in the video we had to come back the next day, however in a normal situation we could have immediately started scraping once it was dried. the scraping/clean up took about 20 minutes. then we got the top coat fully applied and back rolled in 25 minutes. the top coat was walkable in 6 hours (cured overnight) and the next day it was perfectly fine to walk on So including the cure times of the floor patch and moisture seal, it was just around 8 hours of work. Add on the 6 or so hours of cure time for the top coat at the end, so it would be walkable around that 15 hour mark. So for the flooring guys out there with crews, if they start early and use the big grinder they could knock these out in a day. given that it's not a huge warehouse floor or something similar If this was a garage, it would be best to let it rest for 3 days before driving on it but after that it's good to go! Hope that answered your question!
It looks so much better! 👍 When wet, how slippery is it? It seems like you've mostly used it on outdoor or garage cement. How is it on a 2nd story kitchen with a wooden floor? Are there ventilation issues?
Great questions! This system is compatible over 4x8 plywood subflooring. Ensure the subflooring is sound and not too bowed. Fill the seams and any damage. Sand rather than grind. The Polyaspartic top coat is not very slippy at all when wet with the non skid. The floor utc is not slippy either.
Aren't the lines in the concrete there for expansion? I'm not a concrete pro, just always thought that's why they are there. It seems like filling them would cause a problem on outdoor concrete.
Mitch made a shower last month with a window in it for the Renovation Hunters TV show, but we can't show it yet because the network has to air it first unfortunately. and the shower pan he mentioned a while back got pushed due to him traveling to do so many other jobs that took priority. sorry about that! we're trying out best to tackle all these projects
Sometimes I see vendors allowing more than 1oz per square foot bc they opt for a finish that is smooth with no texture as you drag your feet. Is that not a normal thing to do?
I liked this small and short demonstration of how to use and apply the Flake Flooring System. Great demo.
Thanks
I built a 750 square foot shop that I do woodworking in. How well do you think this would hold up to shop tools rolling around on it. Also, I have the large expansion joints in there and what would I do about those
Is your moister seal an epoxy? Or is it a urethane, poly, acrylic, etc?
Well......with the drying time can you please breakdown how this is a 1 day job? Even in thos video you guys were there for more then 1 day according to the sun and shadows and the fact you guys were in different clothes.
Great question. due to filming and doing another countertop job at the same time that's why we couldn't do this job in a day, but here's that breakdown:
Grinding: took about 2 1/2 hours by hand. would be less than an hour with a walk-behind grinder
Floor Patch: We got it all applied (2 batches) in less than ten minutes, grindable in 30 minutes. Took about 20 minutes to grind back smooth and then clean dust
Moisture Seal: We got it out and applied in 15 minutes, then flaked the entire in in about 10 minutes. So from the time we mixed, to fully flaked, was just under 30 minutes. This coat cured in 3 hours (5 if it was colder, but it was about 85 that day)
Scrape/Top Coat: as you saw in the video we had to come back the next day, however in a normal situation we could have immediately started scraping once it was dried. the scraping/clean up took about 20 minutes. then we got the top coat fully applied and back rolled in 25 minutes. the top coat was walkable in 6 hours (cured overnight) and the next day it was perfectly fine to walk on
So including the cure times of the floor patch and moisture seal, it was just around 8 hours of work. Add on the 6 or so hours of cure time for the top coat at the end, so it would be walkable around that 15 hour mark. So for the flooring guys out there with crews, if they start early and use the big grinder they could knock these out in a day. given that it's not a huge warehouse floor or something similar
If this was a garage, it would be best to let it rest for 3 days before driving on it but after that it's good to go!
Hope that answered your question!
thank you
Can I apply epoxy to my front patio tiles and completely cover it? I live in South Florida, where it gets really hot and rains a lot. Will it last?
Great teaching video
It looks so much better! 👍 When wet, how slippery is it? It seems like you've mostly used it on outdoor or garage cement. How is it on a 2nd story kitchen with a wooden floor? Are there ventilation issues?
Great questions!
This system is compatible over 4x8 plywood subflooring. Ensure the subflooring is sound and not too bowed. Fill the seams and any damage. Sand rather than grind. The Polyaspartic top coat is not very slippy at all when wet with the non skid. The floor utc is not slippy either.
@@mitchquist Thank you!! 👍
Can this be done over a "dry poured" patio?
watching all your videos, would a shower pan floor, over cement be installed similar to this video please ??
will it handle winter and snow in NJ?
Aren't the lines in the concrete there for expansion? I'm not a concrete pro, just always thought that's why they are there. It seems like filling them would cause a problem on outdoor concrete.
That's a great question. Someone should answer this...
Mitch, are you still going to do a shower floor install with a window you had mentioned a while back? …pf
Mitch made a shower last month with a window in it for the Renovation Hunters TV show, but we can't show it yet because the network has to air it first unfortunately. and the shower pan he mentioned a while back got pushed due to him traveling to do so many other jobs that took priority. sorry about that! we're trying out best to tackle all these projects
Coming soon!!
@@StoneCoatCountertops thanks for the quick reply…
No vapor barrier?
Can this be used as a countertop over plywood or MDF?
They have different products for doing countertops. Check out the other videos.
Sometimes I see vendors allowing more than 1oz per square foot bc they opt for a finish that is smooth with no texture as you drag your feet. Is that not a normal thing to do?
Already a solid flat base.....never get a job like that ever.....
We did this to our Garage floor. It is dangerous when its wet or damp, or from humidity condensation. It looks good, but slippery when wet.
You used the Stone Coat product and topped with the anti slip product?
did you use our stuff with the non-skid?
😊
what happened to the other stone coat dude the OG i like his big little bro but we need that OG back
I like both guys but personally I think Mitch makes the videos a lot more fun.
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