383 Stroker Rotating Assembly
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- This is (Episode 24) of the #ETCGDadsTruck Series.
Link to (Episode 25): • 383 Stroker Top End As...
Link to (Episode 23): • Machine Shop Summary #...
This installment of #ETCGDadsTruck covers the assembly of the rotating assembly of the engine, #DT383. The rotating assembly consists of the crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, cam shaft, and timing chain.
Camera: Brian Kast, Eric Cook
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The best place for answers to your automotive questions: www.ericthecarg...
Check out the ETCG Blog for the latest info: www.ericthecar...
Summit Racing: www.summitraci...
Thanks for watching!
Parts
Crankshaft: www.summitraci...
Rods: www.summitraci...
Pistons: www.summitraci...
Piston Rings: www.summitraci...
Rod Bearings: www.summitraci...
Main Bearings: www.summitraci...
Main Studs: www.summitraci...
Cam: www.compcams.com Custom Grind: 12-000-8
Timing Chain Set: www.compperform...
Cam Button: www.compperform...
Tools
Crankshaft Socket (SBC): www.summitraci...
Cam Installation Tool: www.summitraci...
Piston Ring Filer: www.summitraci...
Piston Ring Squaring Tool (4.000-4.230): www.summitraci...
Piston Ring Compressor (4.030)(Summit): www.summitraci...
Piston Ring Compressor (4.030)(Moroso): www.jegs.com/i...
Torque Wrench: www.jbtools.co...
Plastigauge: www.summitraci...
Paint Pen: www.amazon.com...
CAT Plug Kit: parts.cat.com/...
“Piston” Hammer: trustycook.com...
Gasket Tack: www.amazon.com...
WD40: www.amazon.com...
Related Videos
383 Stroker Engine Parts #ETCGDadsTruck: • 383 Stroker Engine Par...
Engine Assembly Crankshaft and Pistons #DarkMatterPikachu: • Engine Assembly Cranks...
How To Assemble Pistons and Rings: • How To Assemble Piston...
How To Gap Piston Rings: • How To Properly Gap Pi...
How To Mask and Paint an Engine Block: • How To Mask & Paint an...
How To Use Plastigauge: • How To Use Plastigage ...
#ETCGDadsTruck Playlist: • #ETCGDadsTruck Build I...
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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy®. 
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A butt-load of time and effort went into making this video. THANK YOU! Glad I'm not the only one who enjoys watching a detailed engine build.
I'm not even close to being a builder but I helped a friend of mine once who ran a machine shop and was OCD about cleanliness. We took a block from the hot tank to a power washer, then hit it with a brush, hose, soap bucket and back to the power washer again and again. We went back and forth like that probably 3-4 times before he was satisfied. No BS when I say it was clean enough to eat off of.
If he stepped away during assembly to use the head, make a call or eat lunch, he would slip a lawn&leaf bag over it. And don't even think about touching the crank, rods, bearings or cylinder walls without wearing rubber gloves. He believed that oil and sweat from bare skin would lead to corrosion where contact was made. He was a fanatic and apparently a damn good builder.
I was at a guy's house several years ago while he and a couple of his friends were assembling a new bottom end (BBC) for his street race car. During the assembly, a moth flew into the garage. They all basically panicked and frantically covered the engine with plastic until the moth was taken care of. I thought it was slightly overboard...lol
Your camera person is doing a great job. Sound is great too.
Thanks for not adding music or having annoying background noise.
Great video!
few tips- put the camshaft in before the crank and it's easy to hold and guide in. always clean the block, crank, etc before paint and assembly. run a brush through oil passages. clean out all plastigage.
Naa. You're no fun. Taking all the surprise out of engine building.
I am GIDDY for this. Love that it’s 55min, can’t wait to sit back and enjoy later tonight. Friday’s looking up!
I thought your dad's truck was a SS 454 my bad
I didn’t see you for about 4 or 5 years, you have a nice garage Eric and I learned a lot from you. Thank you for the video, greetings from Algeria.
you should always use a ring expander, it prevents getting any scratches on the piston. Also, I try to spread the gaps away from 6 and 12 o'clock--those areas have the most thrust on the piston to cylinder wall... i keep them closer to the pins.
if the cylinder bores have not been bored but just honed. check ring end clearance at the BOTTOM of the ring travel in case there is a slight taper in the cylinder they will fit tightest at the bottom. very good point you are making about the importance of getting enough ring end gap.
It was bored over
@@ExtraFungus always a dumb ass who can not read but has to comment. my statement was for cylinder bores that were no bored. not these. doing the ring end check the correct way is a good habit to develop. you normally push them to the bottom of their travel with a piston. if one does the job that way it will always work correctly in any cylinder. thanks for nothing dumb ass.
I'm not an engine builder. But 20 extra ft pounds on the rod caps alter your clearance numbers.
Exactly, but likely not enough to matter in this application .
I dont think it would be that big of a problem. If you take note of the ARP paper it says with their lube. Their lube reduces the force thus youd reach torque easier so they raise the torque value higher so once torqued at the higher setting it would be equal to if you torqued it to spec without the lube on the threads and washer heads.
I'm not an expert but I read the instructions... that's all you need. I had to add good audio.. I can hear every little bearing popping into place metal-on-metal contact sounds great...very satisfying
32:52 - "The bigger it is, the smaller the clearance. The smaller it is, the LESS(?) the clearance."
....Eric talks a lot and makes the occasional faux pas. In case it wasn't clear, crushing the little pasta stick makes it thinner and wider. It the gap is larger, it doesn't crush as much and results in a thicker and less-wide 'splat'.
Awesome video, Eric. I agree with those who call this an hour of CAR PORN!
when the ring says top that does not necessarily mean it's the top ring it means that side goes up also the WD40 on the rings and skirts is so you do not glaze your cylinder walls at start up this coating of oil will glaze them your Ring gap of .018 is perfectly fine for a 4.030 bore you really should not roll compression rings on every ring manufacturer uses ring plyers and recommend always using them good video
That’s the way to do it. Check all your tolerances before fully installing bearings rings and piston slap. I like to use motor oil to assemble most of it. Good oil flow is important to break in. It’s good to prime the system with oil also. Makes for a happy engine and less potential for spinning a bearing or damaging any moving part inside the engine. I like to change break in oil at close to 1,000 miles. Gets all the contaminants out. Makes for clean smooth running engine.
I love the sounds of putting the engine together. The metal hitting metal on all the fasteners and when he’s hammering the pistons in. The further down they go the higher the pitch gets. I’m very sensitive to sounds and get anxious and annoyed easily but these sounds are very relaxing.
Honestly, this series is right up there at the top of stuff I watch in my subscription feed.
I like that you did the assembly and you showed some of the minor issues from the machine shop. I'm familiar with what a 383 is, I've never seen details or the modifications needed to make it work. I don't think I'll ever have a sbc car again because LS engines are a thing, but if I was going to do one, I think I'd go this way.
A light car with a built 302/327sbc is a monster. Can be happy in the 7000rpm range for somewhat cheap, 283/302sbc can see 9000 rpm and be happy if it's built correctly, and not be as pricy as one might think.
@@talonvaughn6175 the price goes up day by day and parts availability just goes down. Ls is the way to go.
I believe Comp cams that start with 12 are retrofit hydraulic rollers. Intended to be used in a block that does not have bosses and tapped holes for a cam retainer plate. No thrust button would be needed with a step nosed cam (start with 08- I believe). There are 2 sizes based on spacing for the cam retainer plate in blocks that were factory hydraulic roller.
If the machine shop you used tells you it's "common" to find dirt in your engine after they're done with it then it's time to find a new machine shop!
I also find it kinda concerning that there is (still) pitting on the top of the block at least one for the sides.
I kinda feel bad for the machine shop but they messed up so many things on this block alone...
quite agree , should have done the job properly , or find someone else
What he ment was, no matter how many times you clean it, there will always be something that slips into it again. it`s very common to clean it again after the machine shop. You my friend are a noob.
@@tommyaleks100 well aren't you a treat
@@tommyaleks100 why wouldn't the open ports / holes be covered after cleaning? That makes sense to me....
Hey Eric, I have rebuilt my Honda car engine, my Pontiac car engine, and my bike engines. I am not an engine builder either, so I can relate to the anxiety when checking clearances, and you happen upon the unnerving end of the measurement spectrum. Your a great mechanic, and your careful, don’t second guess your instincts!
If it’s in spec, ITS IN SPEC !!!! Great job ! Fun build !
Eric, your videos are so good, I cant compliment you enough. Last night, I watched a video you made 4 years ago on change brake calipers and today I am watching this video - 1 week old - on assemblying your engine. Such a great channel.
When you're measuring main bearing clearances, you really should bolt the oil pump on. The torque on the bolt that attaches it to the rear main cap can and will effect the clearance.
Probably not a huge deal here since I'm sure the guys at the machine shop already checked it like that, but its something worth knowing.
You squeeze the ring with your left hand and crank with your right hand; you grind both end gap faces at the same time, this way if the grinder wheel is true, the end gaps stay parallel. As for checking end gap, square up the ring in the block and put the best fitting feeler gauge in and pull the gauge and if the gauge has drag and comes out without disturbing the ring ends that's the size; if the ends get tugged away it's the size less.
I love these kind of work Eric. Great work! As a car/ engine mechanic I would say he did a great job with it so far. The only thing I would do in this matter is that I would flushed it one more time before asembly, but`s that`s me. On other thing I will like to mention is that, you did correct to not wear glows on this job. I have seen it before and it`s not always smart to do. The clarence of the bearings are in specs so not to worry there. I have read some of the comments and I must say, they rely need to go to school or do lot`s of reading. Nothing wrong at all with this job, Eric is very carefully with what he does so no worries there ether. This engine will run smooth as a kitten. Keep it up Eric :)
I’ve been waiting to see the motor put back together. It looks soooo good Eric! One day I want to do all this stuff to my c1500. Thanks for taking the time to put out all this awesome info on these trucks!
Glad to see that you measured ring gaps in their respective cylinder bores. In a precision engine build each piston is miked and each bore is honed to achieve the desired clearance.
To be totally ocd about the ring install I would install the loose rings in the rear of the engine or furthest from the water pump.
May be should put it in yhe middle ,so the compression balance better?
Cam specs are very close to the Crane roller cam I picked up for my 306 build for my truck.
216*/224* @ 0.050, 112* LSA, 107* ICL, 0.520"/0.542" lift.
Picked it out for its high lift for the AFR Renegade 165 heads I bought and because it was more fitting for a daily street truck with a C6 transmission with a goal of 3.00:1 to 3.25:1 ring and pinion swap to offset my 31x10.50-15 KO2 tires.
Slow process to build a personal engine! Every detail that makes you sleep at night is accepted in the hobby! Hobby is what i call it as that is what it is for us perfectionists! In the end of every build its your dollar so spend it as you see fit! I enjoy final assembly of any project and am critisized by everyone around that i am way too anal about the small details! In the end most of my builds from 1000 Hp to 50 Hp pitbikes hold up and last through the punishment of those that critisized me! I get the most thrill knowing that the small details are what make build hold up !!!!!
Clevite/Michigan 77's are my choice...Long time since a build like this...but Clevite 77 was always my choice in any engine...GREAT CALL!!!
Hey, great video Eric, I've been planning on pulling the 350 in my Camaro and making a 383, depending on the prices, I might roughly follow the parts list you included, at first I wasn't sure if I would ditch the block and go for a 4 bolt, but it would be cheaper to get my block machined and get cam bearings installed
I know this is an old video but I'm just now seeing it, anyways, not sure your machine shop did it but I always run a tap through every bolt hole to clean up the threads.. then blow them all out with compressed air... great video sir... you just gained another subscriber 🎉🎉😊😊
The comedian, Bill Burr, mentioned your channel when he was on Joe Rogan’s Podcast. He really liked watching you. Joe Rogan said he watched your channel, also. As a fellow Buckeye, I live in Springfield, it’s nice to get national exposure!
I was confused on the bearings at first then you showed the upper went into the block. Thanks and stay clean lol.
Today, as many of the pop engine/machine shops are rare and the ones that are still around don't always perform all the work. I get it, machines are expensive and so are qualified employees. 20 -30 years ago it was fairly easy to find a good machine shop that did great work and 90% all in house. Granted balancing and blueprinting wasn't common etc but the basics where.
Point is now days I do as much work myself as I can. I have a good machine shop but same deal. I get the block back and it's a lot cleaner then when I dropped it off but NOT clean enough. I always clean it myself and install frost and oil plugs myself after. I have had a few where none of the oil plugs were removed outside of the 6 (3 front, 3 rear, fronts are like small frost plugs). How can it be clean or at least verified as clean?
I always double check machining too as needed for blueprinting anyways. Hopefully the end cap wasn't backwards when they line honed it.
ive come to realize that if the thrust bearing on a small block chevy can hold up to a 72in propeller bolted to the crankshaft pushing close to 1000lbs of thrust that it is pretty impressive lol. even if they do not hold up for 10 years most get 5+ years depends on app.
Putting the cam in first makes installing it way easier and less risk of gouging a bearing. With the rotating assembly out you can reach right in the cam journal and guide it along from both ends.
That why some people like fit the engine stand to the side.
@@alanw5812 engine stand placement makes zero difference.
@@LSswapGarage1 I mean is put the camshaft up down, better than sideway.
@@alanw5812 still better with the crank out. Especially with cams a lot larger than the cam buddy used in this video.
@@LSswapGarage1 ? Don't understand
Should have painted the block Old Ford Blue, just to screw with people.
It's your truck, your engine, your build; I'm glad you did what you wanted, the mob is fickle..
EDIT: That camshaft installation tool can also be used as a potato masher when not being used to install camshafts!
Thanks for the tip!
I'll definitely be watching this while I assemble my 383 for my 81 Z28 Camaro. Awesome video!
I always put the cam in first cause there's room for your hands to help guide it through the cam tunnel and plus if it doesn't spin freely or something is wrong it can be fixed without having to tear the crank and pistons back out and redo them all. Ask me how I know this lol so for me every sense I had a cam I now do it first then the crank and pistons
Thank you 🙏 Sr. I have a 88 GMC 350 5.7L I’m bout to do same things you do this video will help me a lot. Thank you for the video Sr
for future reference, its good practice to never lay camshafts and crankshafts on their sides. its less important with camshafts but crankshafts should always be sat upright when not in the engine to prevent warping
So How do you think they are stored when they are in the werehouse or under shipping?
@@axtra92 when I got a oem crank sent to me, it was sent laying down in a mdf box. It has polystyrene support on where the main bearings were, so it was supported as if it was in a motor.
Yeah humidity can warp a crank like a piece of pine lol lol lol.
Never been proven, even though it’s probably just a wives tale I do try to store mine upright and even at that they would have weight stress whether upright or hanging.
Only small blocks up to 1958 had rope rear main seals, in '59 Chevy was the first GM engine to go to a 2 piece neoprene type seal - then the one piece design was introduced in '86.
I disassembled the 350 out of my 86 k20 which has a turbo 400, the thrust bearing was so worn the crank was rubbing the block where the mains are cut out. There was evidence that someone had at least tried to reseal the oil pan, highly doubt it has been rebuilt. The seller claimed a max of 260,000 miles but he thought that the odometer had only rolled over once, it reads 60,000 so at least 160,000 miles. Makes me wander if it just had the 260,000 miles on it or it was a running engine pulled from a manual truck to get this truck running.
I made my own Cam installation tool out of a 1.5" od x 10" length rod of aluminum with an all thread bolt threaded in to it . It really works beautifully and it only cost me about 1/2 hour of my time.
... Great video Eric !!... i especially liked the 'masking tape catch' of machine shop dirt @ the onset ( i'll bet that is the reason... including myself.. why we've been guilty of 'dirty engine' assembly & failure ; ) See ya on the next one, so stay safe & healthy... & Thanks Again.
If you don't have caps to place on the rod bolts to prevent scratching the cylinder walls you can use rubber/neoprene fuel hose or clear nylon tubing slipped over the rod bolts.
Love the numbers and arrows on the pistons.
This was an hour of porn for me. Nice to actually see how an engine is put together by hands not diagrams and pictures.
Wonderful explaining of assembly
I used to run a CNC mill making port blocks - the rule was to ALWAYS blow it out. Great job !!!
Really REALLY good guide! I will probably never assemble an engine but I really appreciate the knowledge you have provided!
Tip on painting engines. You can cover parts not to be painted with Vaseline or a lot of oil and wipe off with gas to clean
Or grease. We did that with the Ford engine. It worked great on the freeze plugs. That video is linked in the description. Thanks for your comment.
Hey eric. So I bought this 08 Saturn aura. The problem when I first bought it was it'll overheat(never to excessively) and itll go bck a tad bit below the half way line and stay there but when the engine heats up enough n I cut the car on it doesn't want to start back up until it's been sitting for 6+ hours. I pressure tested it and found I had a little leak in the radiator so I replaced it. Since then I'm still having the same problem the car gets to operating temperature and if I cut it off it won't cut back on. The only difference is it doesn't take as long to sit for me to cut back on maybe three hours tops AND the coolant hand doesn't get to the half way put just "close"
I'm at a point where this is beyond me the battery isn't bad the alternator is good I've bleed the system oh Soo many times ... I'm leaning towards changing the thermostat for the reason it won't reach halfway line but I've never heard of that keeping a car from cutting on. I'm also leaning towards changing coolant temp sensor. I just feel like it's coolant related but I'm not the first owner so I don't know if this is two problems in one or what. Please help all the best u can
I’ve learned more from this video than I have in school
I really liked the compressive plastic string gauge, such a simple way to do a difficult job :-D.
I really didn't like that crud coming out of the coolent passages, lucky the tape presented it.
I'm sure you got a lot of satisfaction assembling that engine :-D
i'm reminded of the Heathkit company that made electronic kits that people could build at home, radios/weather stations and many others.
The old electronic mags showed a man holding an assembled kit in both hands.
" Prowd to say i built it myself "
When I was a kid I used to build models. One was a Flying Fortress that had working electric motors you needed to assemble yourself. I never did get that to work right. I didn't follow the instructions either. Still, a great way to learn how to put things together. Thanks for your comment!
I use an air gun to torque it, set the air pressure to 30 on the first round and adjust the air after each round until it goes to specs... fast and easy and always works great.
😉
Love the sound of an empty shop and building horsepower!!!
Assembling an engine has never been this satisfying..
you can use rubber hose gas line hose on the Bolt you need to put something on the bolts so when you put the Pistons in you do not score of the crankshaft this is very important it is easy 2 scar a crankshaft by not using bolt covers I've always juice pieces of gas line hose works really good they make rubber boots especially made for Motors I used to work at an engine rebuilding shop I've been a mechanic all my life
I could watch this forever. Great video!
Love seeing how far you've come! Remember you in a crappy little cinder block garage working on your yuck mobile
WD 40 is so expensive in Brazil that now I only use it as a perfume to go out with some girls.
It's not even that good a lubricant.
@@aliabdallah102 but probably over there it's enough
@@nazigrammar9728 Brazilian Girls have more blow-by
Try using diesel fuel with a little engine oil added to it for a spray-able lubricant
Now that's 2020, I use hand sanitizer.
Now that's a beautiful thing right there! 😎
Tempted to junk the crap 5.3 in my '07 Silverado and install one of those. At least I know the 383 will do what it's supposed to reliably!
Smitty Smithsonite
I catch a lot of hell from people because I’m not a fan of the LS series. I’m more of a SBC guy. 50 years of performance is proven.
@@chrisj197438 - I hear that, brother. 🍻
Nice video man! I have the intake off of my 1998 Ford F-150 4.2 v6 right now
Thanks so much for this project! Your videos have helped my family fix so much more than we would have otherwise.
Round the outside, round tye outside😂😂😂
This is by far the best how you video ice ever seen ill he using it when i assemble my 383, thank you so much! Subscribing
When inserting the pistons & rods, it's better to push all in one move instead of hammering it. Turn the crank to the lowest position as far away from the cylinder bottom and put one hand at the bottom of the cylinder to grab the rod--- you push all in one motion instead of hammering it. you only need to push about 2 inches to get all the rings compressed & into the cylinder. Hammering can get an oil ring rail stuck or broke between the ring compressor & the top of the block.
The E4 inverted torx stud on the rear seal adapter area can be turned using a 4mm 6pt socket😊 jus a lil tidbit
Eric...I COMMEND YOU IN CHOICE OF CID...383 SBC IS ONE OF MY FAV ENGINES...A friend contacted me after buying an 81 Firebird ...WHAT SHOULD I PUT IN THIS??? A BLUEPRINT 383...POWER DURABILITY AND FUN!!! His Dad taught me GLASS...AUTO/ GLAZING...He had 3 Sons(Not the TV Series but coulda passed for it) Dan was the oldest...We became friends...all three actually...but Dan chose the right girl and I was honored as best man...well 2 Brothers...he didn't want arguments...lol)
I love how quite it is in your shop. Just crank away
Great info... gonna start my 383 build soon.. I like old school power.. thanx Eric.. nice build.. like the foxbody in the background..
Straight from Plastigauge, Inc.: "Ideally you should remove the PLASTIGAUGE stripe with a clean oily cloth or industrial de-greasing solvent, but users may be assured that any PLASTIGAUGE left behind is oil soluble and cannot harm the engine in any way. "
Really, that would be nice if true lol I've always been so meticulous to get it off lol so your saying I worried and did all that for nothing haha if so hey I'm good with that but all the guys I learned from had me worrying about leaving any behind lol
Real engine builders use micrometers and not plastigauge.
As others have stated, if your engine comes back dirty from the machine shop, then that is a lazy machinist who cuts corners. Also, your cap shouldn't have come back installed backwards. Those are both bad signs. If it were mine, I would check for warpage on the cylinder decks of the block and FOR SURE I would check the journals where they cut them to be positive they didn't cut corners there either. I tend not to be very trusting in general, but if I get clear signs that corners were cut, it's on. I measure everything and double check them. Too many places are out for the quick dollars and they don't simply take their time and do it right, like they should. The final thought on that is "How much is your integrity worth?" Each person makes that decision in every decision that they make. I try to keep mine valuable, always.
I nor any builder should rely on the machine shop work. We check EVERYTHING and clean EVERYTHING. No shop will ever take a blown engine back.
Very well said Jake
@kc2pih I, personally, prefer to build over buy, to an extent. There is something reassuring in knowing it was built correct because I built it. To each his/her own on that, though.
Great video Eric
I built a 327 for my car some 30+ years ago (still running), but at the time seriously considered building a 383. One thing I seem to remember is due to the longer crank throw, the block needs to be clearanced or the connecting rod bolt heads can slightly hit the block. I noticed you didnt have any issues so Im curious if that was with the old style SBC block, or maybe with stock rod bolts (not ARP). I guess any good machine shop would advise if that is the case. BTW, great build! That engine should be TONS of fun. Please run a good exhaust not the bronx cheer crap kids do now days.
If you ever have to remove a ding in a bearing journal. a fine single cut file will carefully do it. followed by a tiny bit of polish with fine wet or dry sand paper.
Normal to have crude coming out of the coolant passages because of the calcium build up in the block plus they use sand to cast these so particles show up all the time
Even so, they shouldve cleaned it out...
True, but this seemed excessive to me. Knowing they didn't remove the freeze plugs before hot tanking made me a little butt hurt. Especially since I requested they replace them. I think that also contributed.
EricTheCarGuy are there galley plugs too that should be removed?
I think for a seasoned block it's customary for performance applications to remove ALL freeze plugs and gallery plugs to lifters and get in there with rifle bore brushes to knock loose rust and scale.
EricTheCarGuy yeah it would of been a little concerned on freeze plugs. I’ve removed some that looked perfect on the outside but the insides was very rusted. Rust really gets these old sbcs. They’re coming on 30-60 years old.
سلام وهزاران 👍 .....جناب مهندس اریک عزیز بسیار تشکر دارم ...وهمواره بهترین ها را برایتان از خدای مهربان ارزومندم....👍....
LOL, I love the Eminem reference on the rear main seal
Well done dude,pops old beast will be on the street soon
Thought you were suppose to put main seals in dry so they make a tiny groove on the crank and don't leak. Lubing them just primes them for a leak.
Nice work Eric always good to check all the clearances to make sure all is good nothing wrong with doing all that may take time to do buy better safe then sorry Thanks again....
FINALLY a guy who says ENGINE !!...instead of " motor " now THATS professional !
I used to own / operate an engine building machine shop. We used to pressure wash the blocks and heads before we put them into the hot tank cleaner to get the worst of the gunk and rust flakes out if the water jackets.
After agitating in the hot tank, and pressure washing, when they came out, we used to put the heads and blocks on top of the hot tank to let the water evaporate out of the water jackets and oil galleries before starting to machine.
After all that cleaning, and pressure washing, you'd be surprised by how much little rust particles and flakes will still come out of the water jackets. Best tip is to clean everything can when you get your engine parts back from the machine shop. Then clean it again. As long as all that grit stays out of the lube oil side, you can flush the engine with fresh water when you get it running, then when you're sure everything is clean, put in two gallons of antifreeze (concentrated) top it off with water, and you should be good to -25 degrees.
Awesome, thanks for that insight.
Eric,cool video. You are just like me I love unpacking new fools. Yes there are other ways to do the job but he’ll life is short and I love my tools. Have a good one friend looking forward to the rest of the build Artie 👍👍👍
That block was set up for a roller cam but didn't come with one from the factory. Should be able to locate a thrust plate instead of a thrust button. did the double roller chain set require any grinding or clearancing?
Not gonna lie, the beeping of the torque wrench is oddly satisfying.
I prefer the old school click sound on them myself.
i got a 327 that we as me and my friend and bell auto motive built it was nuts out we pulled it out of rick news dragster then put another 25,000 in it old man bell said it was the most he has ever dun to a small block chevy for the street it has been over 15,000 rpms many of times still have it in the shop just cost to much if it breaks last time it was over 5,000 to fix it so i retired it just to much for the street 1200 hp on pump gas no nitro and it rev like a sob so fast it could twist the end off the steel crank if u went all out but it was a lot of fun right now i got about 800 hp in my pu with the stroked 454 with tunnel ram and the old 400 turbo's get the heavy duty one's they work really good seems to hold up just fine to 800 hp
Built engines all the time before the economy tanked, always loved it, itching to do another.. 454 4 bolt comin up next, great vid amigo! Also better to put cam in before crank to keep from bangin it around in there was cringing every knock...
I (ALWAYS) stab the cam and lock it down before i set the crank in. This way if your cam is in and timing chain etc, when you check for clearance, you will know if your cam clears or not, plus it's (SOOOO MUCH EASIER) to install first... Plus the roller block locking plate holds it in place with the sprocket...
I would have went minimum 383 with a XE288HR10.. OR XE282HR10 if you want milder and more torque. 500+HP with AFR 195'S on a 9.5:1+ 383.
Hey Eric, at 26:34 in the video, right when your rotating the engine around to put in the pistons, I noticed something drop. Maybe more of the debris? I hope there's nothing detrimental when you go to start up the engine and run coolant through the system. Just thought you'd like to know, or you know already and have looked into it already. Love the videos, keep up the good work.
Should you check ring gap in the cylinder it will be living in? Just asking because it seemed that you checked the first few rings in the same cylinder. Not questioning your methods just wondering because it seems easier to check them all in the same one and not keep track of which goes where.
Great video as usual 👍
Piss poor job of cleaning by the shop.Not impressed with that guy's professionalism.
I enjoyed the fat chick ad though.Cracks me up!
I WOULD NOT EVER USE THAT " MACHINS SHOP " EVER AGAIN, PERIOD. THAT DIRT, PLUS OTHER THINGS, ARE A HUGE RED FLAG FOR THIS SHOP, FIND ANOTHER SHOP, SIR ERIC. THEY KNEW THIS WAS GOING TO BE BUILT ON THE INTERNET & STILL IT'S NOT RIGHT.?
nowr2run WRONG...
I've a question....How would I tell if my rebuild was truly 30 over bored? I know it was rebuilt. But the guy I bought the truck from seemed shady. However over the 7 years I've had the truck its been great and turns out so far everything has been true. The only reason I cannot believe the 30 over to 383 is, I've been told there was no way my 350 was because of some strange reason I cannot remember I think it was something about the 380 instead of 383 or some shit. Made no sense really. I honestly am clueless to most jargon however I am pretty good with basics. The truck trans was rebuilt and had some gearing done for pulling. Also the motor is still good no smoke and its 92 ....no oil leaks. There's never been a Chevy engine I've seen all stock that damned old that wasn't rebuilt. Hahahah. Anyway. I checked the harmonic balancer and it looks normal so that is why I still question it. The engine is in the 92 long bed ext cab c1500 Silverado. I am thinking about redoing the entire thing. I want to break about 400 hp....that would give the truck plenty of fun power without it being too damn dangerous being the bed is long. Hahaha.
Once you go black... An excellent episode, really enjoy watching this series.
i always wash and scrub the engine block in soap and hot water then take an air hose and the blow down the block until dry after this , i take trans fluid and wash cylinders with trans. fluid and scrub cylinders . spray with penetrating oil or paint engine .
Cam tool is designed to keep you from knocking out the rear freeze plug if cam goes past flush threshold on front of engine.
Great video Eric! Glad to see you're back in full swing.
Thank you for the amazing video.... my therapy!
clean, clean, and more clean!!!
Am I right isn’t #8 always the hottest? You could put the .021 ring in?
Haha nope
P
Uh no!!! I don't know who told you that but they lied to you any given cylinder can be hotter then the other and that all depends on your carb and intake because some cheaper intakes don't distribute the gas flow evenly causes one cylinder to get just a little less fuel then the other but that really doesn't matter either unless you're talking about more then a 20 degrees difference and then you'll want to find a better flow pattern intake and I'm talking about ten thousand rpm race engines here because the average every day driver like this motor will never need adjustments like this because it doesn't matter nor will this motor ever turn 10k rpms and I'm a engine builder and dirt track driver
If there's a little bit of dirt in the engine after cleaning you know maybe you should check them little holes just a little bit more but that didn't seem like a whole lot of dust don't worry about you should clean out those threaded holes double-check anyway don't you think they wouldn't do that at the factory though take too much time they got to make sure they get quick ways of doing all that stuff you just have to double-check if you seen it once then you'd have to do it for every engine which is not really a problem you can stick a water hose in there real quick or something once it's on the engine wash