How to Replace & Calibrate Your VNT-15 Actuator
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- In this video we'll replace the actuator on a VNT-15. While installing the new actuator, we will use a MityVac to calibrate.
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Any tips on the best way to do this without removing the turbo from the car?
Driving me nuts how to vacuum line is kinked...
Subscribed because of this video.
Nice video! Thank you
Helped very much!
Keep doing the good work!
Don't foget if youre car was running for a long time with a low power condition remouve the lower intercooler pipe there is a big chance that there is a big amount of oil clean the oil to prevent a runaway situation and destroy the engine and a second point is if the actuator was rusted and rust dust can damage the black and white check valve and the N75 and make sure you have good vaccum on the actuator.
V10PDTDI hey I keep getting a p0234 over boost. Have new solenoid on firewall, turbo actuator, took turbo apart and cleaned it up. I adjusted it just like this video. I’ve even tried moving it a few turns and drive it and same thing.
Using my solus I checked boost pressure and at part throttle say it requested 1300mbar the actual value was 1400. Wide open it spiked at 2500mbar and requested was 1700. Car has 160k on it. Any info would be greatly appreciated. If it’s easier maybe I can have you message me on Facebook
Rozumiem, że można zrobić na aucie po odpaleniu , załamać wężyk aby ciśnienie pozostało i regulować?
So the lever should be completely to the top when you start?
very very helpful information about actuator valve...
This is good if your stop screw is set correctly, if not your working blind
Hopefully no one has screwed with the stop screw. If so, yeah...you're in trouble.
I had recently replaced turbo core because of oil leakage, however I am facing issues with the boost now as I could not understand these adjustments as yet. I have a Garrett Turbocharger, which is supposed to start kicking in at 1500 rpm, however it starts kicking in at as low as 1100 rpm. From 1100-1900 rpm, I can feel there is too much load on the engine, turbo speed keeps increasing (from the rotating sound it makes) and then suddenly after 1900-2000 rpm is crossed, there is sudden gush of energy and acceleration, feels like turbo had acted now. Thereafter, again between 2200-2300 rpm, i can feel load on the engine and hear the turbo starting again (means the high speed rotating sound of turbo). Please advise what could be wrong and how to correct it.
Now I have a face to match the email. Great video. I am inspired to finally replace my actuator. However I do not plan on removing the turbo. Will this present major problems? I have the VNT 17.
Did you ever find out whether you had to remove the turbo?
No it's easily done in car
@@dlmdee big scam. I did it on my back in my driveway in 30 minutes
It takes about 1/2 hour with it on the car
5:03 The more it move has to be understand as the more it shorten for sure, but this phrasing was a bit confusing, as the movement is opposite in fonction on car while increasing rpm. make sens?
Is there any video for stop screw adjusting to find the right position?
Is it possible to fix a manual boost controller to a VNT?
Pls I don't have any vaccum design to check and see. How pressure it take to 4each the stop point. Pls how many thread nut is left over before you locked it.i can use that is set mind pls
What if turbo doesn't have stop screw and place for it? For Example GTB1752V vacu controled
I couldnt see on the video how you adjusted te actuator. How about a close up?
What does the 15 to 18 mercury translate to in boost pounds?
You can't convert vacuum pressure of a actuator to boost pressure. Boost is different depending on the turbo size. The actuator could work on the same vacuum on a big or small turbo. It's more to do with the actuator spring tension as to what vacuum you need to move it.
I have a golf mk4 1.9tdi,66kw 90 hp,i cant get over 3000rpm and 130 km/h,and its sooo slow in acceleration...any tips what is the problem? egr valve is clean like new,all vacum hoses are new,maybe MAF,or MAP sensor? or something else? any suggestion?
yeah bad MAF or MAP could do that , try to change those sensor with other GOLF before to replace it , if tha doesnt help remove ur turbo and clean it from inside , maybe the turbo is stucked
4:35 Is it possible for the turbocharger "actuator stop" to be in the wrong position? Can the "stop" be adjusted too?
yes but it still wouldn't be perfect, proper way to do it is to have it calibrated on a flow bench.
What kind of mityvac did you use?
Hi Great video,
I've just fitted a new core to my turbo, but i have to calibrate the lever limit screw myself, where should it be?
need to run engine and messure the vacum on the pipe,see what pump gives you,then apply that amount of vacum to turbo and it should be fully back ,so timing is done,car got x amount and turbo moves with that amount ,should travel from shut to open and back ,how i do it
HI.can i adjust acutator without machine
So my actuator arm barely has any travel, i got it used with some work done. But I’m getting an overboost condition. However, he said that if it’s too short it’s under boosting . Does anyone know if this is correct? Thank you
Sounds like its stuck in the 'down' position due to carbon buildup in the vane mechanism. You'll need to install a new actuator and try and unfreeze the vanes.
is the calibration needed after each interception in the turbine, the restoration of the turbine propeler ?
Yes
Yes I was wondering I have a 2008 Volkswagen Passatit went into misfiring and threw a code for underboost at first I thought it might be my diverter valve but while I was up underneath their I noticed that the west gate actuator arm have come completely unscrewed so I screwed it back onand now I'm getting a cylinder 3 misfire I think I might have it screwed on too much is there a factory setting or do you know how to set that back to the original setting how do you do that any help would be greatly appreciated cuz I think if I got too much boost it's not throwing no code for overboost but I was thinking if I got too much booze that would burn my motor up and like I said it's doing almost the same thing it was doing for the underboost it is not showing the underboost code no more but is showing a misfire on cylinder 3 and it's running like crap
how do i know the right pressure for the turbine of my car?
at the last part, i can guarantee he tried to loosen the two nuts? hahaha he turned the nuts counterclockwise.
Your right 😂😂 it's well tight now
Without the actuator install, is the vane fully close equate to 5 mm Hg and fully travel to open equate to 18 mm Hg?
It's inches Hg, not mm. And for closed, yes, but fully open with it off the turbo will be higher than 18.
hi ya good video but how do you re set the stop screw if it's been moved when rebuilding the turbo thanks
see how she drives first
Is it vacumm pump?
very good
Engine code p1556 or p1557 depending on what scan tool used any idea what can be problem just says pressure control negative deviation
I know it's 4 months later. But Google the codes and it should tell you what to look at for possible culprit
Love the help! I need some help though. I just had my vnt 1.9 TDI turbo rebuilt. Went home, installed it. Upon starting I get a lot of white smoke. Looked at exhaust pipes, there is black oil running out of it. So I called the shop, they said to check clearances as well as measurements on the compressor?? Then let him know......I haven't a clue what to check? Any help would save my ass!! Please help. Thank you.
Bad turbo
If the actuator was not functioning at all would the car barely run.
What about electric actuator?
what causes these to fault
Rust
I need that spanner
I have walksvagen golf mk4, I cleared my turbo and i put new actuator but always it doesn't work, i need help please
+Fawzi mahmoudi This link may help: www.vaglinks.com/Docs/VW/Misc/TDIClub.com_LimpModeDiagnosisGuide.pdf
Also check out TDIclub.com and do some searches. A lot of helpful info there.
@@idparts Unfortunately this link doesn't mention anything about limp mode caused by overboost.
Hi can I just ask why you would need to replace an actuator? Thanks
Well.....if your old one is fucked it's generally a good idea!
Diaphragm goes brittle inside and leaks
@@pjbrad1541 Oh I see. I'm having an issue where my turbo is a bit sluggish soon after startup, but after 2 mins it's absolutely fine and responsive. I find the car accelerates more when the pedal is halfway, than when it's fully down. Any ideas? VW BKD engine. Cheers
@@pjbrad1541 Is it a good idea to change the actuator every X thousand miles? Or only when it goes wrong?
If it ain't broke don't fix it.
Suck the small vacuum pipe that goes to the actuator and see if it moves all the way. If it doesn't move it's knackered.
Google Mr muscle turbo clean....normally a sooted up vnt
It rusts out or the diaphragm inside will corrode and break down. When that happens, it won't hold vacuum. You check this with that vacuum pump like he has. They're fairly cheap, but you need one. So, a good actuator will not only move when you apply vacuum, but it will hold vacuum after it is applied. Watch the gauge and make sure the vacuum stays up after you pump it. If it doesn't hold vacuum, it is leaking and will not work for your turbo. That's what happened with mine.
hello what must be the pressure in inches of mercury
+Roberto GIROTTI It should be at about 18 w/ the actuator fully engaged.
Roberto GIROTTI
Unfortunately, 1.6 CAYC no nuts and how to set the lenth of the bar to get the parameters VCDS
Jan Kowalski those turbos have electric actuators,and I think you can fine tune them,within the ECU. why would you want to adjust that one,in the first place? have you replaced the actuator?
Why not mark on thread
Hello, is it possible to replace the vacuum actuator for a boost controled one? To have a 100% mechanical controled VNT. Thanks in advance!
what would i experience with overboosting?
Hi Evan,You might not notice it unless you had a boost gauge, but if it overboosted enough the car would go into limp mode, which is basically when ECU senses overboost and stops using the turbo. You would know if your car was in limp mode because of the power difference--your car would just become extremely sluggish, but when you restarted the car it would have its power back. You may get a check engine light when this happens. A sure way to know would be to plug the car into VCDS and run logs to check requested boost against actual boost.
Alright thanks
IDParts.com requested boost and actual boost should be equal? or there should be a difference between them? I have a Vauxhall Frontera truck 2.2 l diese; (similar to Isuzu Rodeo) with garret turbo and I always have a difference of 0.2 up to 0.4 bar (depending on throttle) between the requested and actual, the requested one being higher.
@@idparts My VW BKD engine keeps going into limp mode because of overboost. What should I do?
👍
Didn't work whatsoever for me, no boost at all..
Lo
Nobody ever shows you how to do this without taking the turbo off the car
Don't think its possible there is zero room to work.
takes about 15 mins to take the actuator off the turbo...while it's still installed on the engine....use a mirror to see the stop point and adjust from there?
It would be difficult to show everything with all the other stuff in the way.
You wouldn’t be able to record the video and someone would complain that they couldn’t see anything (job sucks as it is especially if you line in The salt belt where everything is seized
I don't understand,Don't you want to add boost to see when the wastegate opens??? It looks like your adding vacuum tho. I would understand if you were pumping adding boost pressure like pumping a bike tire. But I just can't understand why you would add vacuum to open the wastegate flap. I need to find out when my wastegate opens so I know how much boost it will put out. I'm just going buy the wastegate spring for my boost. Its a 10lb spring, so don't that mean the wastegate will open up at 10PSI if I don't give it preload. I would more understand if that mighty vac gun was giving it PSI (BOOST) then the wastegate would crack open and then you know how much boost you should ruffly make.
JOHN SMART this newer diesels use the ECU to control boost so the wastegate actuator is not actually run by the boost pressure but by the vacuum controlled by an electronic valve which gets a command to supply negative pressure from the ECU
+JOHN SMART
The turbo does not have a wastegate, it uses adjustable veins to control boost via vacuum which is controlled by the ECU.
RUFFLY.
Clear, simple and impressive. Good teaching
Hola eso límites de calibre sirven para un turbo y geometría variable de una nisan navara?
Heck yea so glad to see more people using harbor freight tools and tool box
GT1749MV has the same settings? What pressure start move the bar?
That guy breaths sooo LOUD :D
Hi I'm having trouble calibrating the actuator arm on a Garrett GT2052V I'm using a Mityvac like yours and I adjust it to about 15 but the arm becomes very hard and it won't go up or down when I pull the vacuum hose off at idle. I also took it for a drive with the actuator adjusted at 15 and it had no power.
BTW this turbo is on a Nissan ZD30DI diesel engine on a Nissan Patrol in Colombia south America.
Any tips please
Thank you
Don't lube the nuts! Wtf! No!
It's close enough to a heat source that it's just going to bake them onto the rod. Use copper anti-seize!
would I use same settings (15"-18" mercury) on a gt17/52 hybrid turbo?
Jegnesh isuzu india p0299
Hi. Can I start the car and adjust the actuator up or down.placing turbo in car.
So long as you have good enough reach all you need to do is back on the lock nut spin which ever way and retighten?? Your amazing everyone else is making you take it all out. ❤❤❤❤❤❤
Which position is the wastegate open position. Is it the lever at top or bottom. Is underboost, if we get the boost before 2000rpm.
Is it normal the actuator valve move in very tight with high pressure? Because when i start my car it doesn't move at all
Turbo control - VNT and wastegate is closed if engine is not running and open if it is started and without load. By looking at the rod while starting the engine you can see if it pushes or pulls the lever - opening wastegate/vnt. If it pulls the level to the actuator then lengthening the rod will actually cause more boost as the vnt will stay closed for longer time. If it pushes the rod out then shortening will cause more boost. (if you want more boost about 1.5 turn should be enough and 3 turns if you trust your turbo)
Should the lever be completely up when adjusting it?
@@matthewlee2686 doesn't matter what position it is in when adjusting. Basicly 1.5 turn (shorten or lengthen) should be OK, 3 turns if you wanna risk it for a biscuit.
Ok, ale co zrobić ze śrubą ograniczającą czyli zderzakiem geometrii? Najpierw ona musi być wyregulowana. Czyli jak?
Nice information. But why is my local garage too scared to replace my actuator or adjust it?
Because the "proper" way to do it is by taking the whole turbo off and replacing everything. That's what's described in VW's maintenance procedures. Besides, there's a decent chance replacing or moving the actuator might not fix your boosting problem.
That being said, there's a chance it will fix your issues (depending on what they are), and you should consider trying it.
nice merci
Very informative, thank you.
Hi , here is some info that might clear things up !
usually to calibrate the stop screw , you need a vnt flow bench .
if you don t have one.
before disassembling the turbo use a mityvac to know what the old turbo was calibrated on .
Mark that down.
AND just use those old parameters .
usually a gt1749 vnt turbo hits the stop screw at - 0.5 bar
For "a little more power" it should be +/- 0.5 bar?
At what vacuum pressure the actuator starts to move?
3-5 inches of mercury
mine opens all the way soon as turbo engages !!?!?!?!?! anyone have an idea of what could be wrong with it ? car feels like if it had a freaking nitrous !?!?!?! not to mention how much my clutch suffers