i have shortened the Actuator fully but it would still needed to be shorter little bit. Do you think that the spring in the actuator need to be replaced? it still leaks the pressure under the load.
no it will be the wastegate door thats jammed if its totally stuck mate. The rod and links get sticky but if they look decent and its jammed up 100% will be carbon gunk behibd the door. On some you can visually see it and can run a scraper around them and get the gunk out. Ive done it a few times with it all still assembled on the car and car never got issues with it again.
I am having a issue not shure if its the vgt part on a 870 cummins when i am jaking i barely get 10 psi on my turbo boost pressure i am thinking maybe the vanes arent shutting all the way down but i am no turbo expert
Hello. Audi A3 8L 1.9TDI (110hp AHF Engine) doesnt make any difference adjusting the wastegate actuator in terms of boost. It has the original garret turbo, and the actuator is working fine as I have tested (n75 valve) with VAG and it works. What am I missing? Thanks
I have a 2015 Dmax Fury Twin Turbo i got from new. First things i done was EGR & DPF delete and wastegates. Actuators on it are electric/vac controlled so i pulled the vac lines off and put a screw and tie wrap on each end so the vac system wouldnt grass itself in. Went from 40psi (atmosphere +25psi) to 47psi stable and was a fair bit faster. It would throw up an overboost warning if it was at over 44psi for 4 seconds at a time but when it got the regen mapped out i got him to up the boost cut to 50psi. Never had any issues and it obliterates newer Dmaxes & Hiluxes like they were nothing. Apparently these 4jj and 4jk lumps can take 60psi without even bothering the head gasket and studs. 62-64psi on a big single conversion is when some report them going through head gaskets. My turbos are getting a slightly higher duty but i keep the oil good and doesnt have diesel in the oil from regens so i reckon its well happy. Got a throttle controller for it too and is surprisingly fast in any gear at any rpm
usually electric vac operated then so youl have a line from the airbox somewhere usually the top l and from that you can trace it to the solenoid that usually has a wee filter cap on the top sometimes light blue. From there one vac hose will go to the wastegate actuator and its only a small amount of vacuum and it opens it. So for to set them get the height sort of right then use a small vac hand pump and wind the rod till you get it to move the rod with the correct vac pressure thay it says in the techbook or online. For example i done twin turbos on a Isuzu Dmax 4jk engine not long ago. So i replaced the actuators and instead of putting the cars vac hoses back on the actuators i just threw my oil vac pump (the one made to suck oil out the dipstick tube) with some hose and pumped it to -7 which the techbook called for and turned the rods till i seen them distinctly shoot open at -7 not just creep open. Stuck the rod ends back on the wastegate door linkage and put the clips back in. Went out with the reader on it looking at overall boost and was bob on the money the actual boost was really close to the target boost throught so got it 100% on the money with nothing more than a £15 oil dipstick vaccum gun👍 See while you are in at it mate if you take it off run some cooker cleaner in the turbo at the veigns but only when you know its all going back together and you can get the car started within an hour or so to blow it through. Your dpf and cat wont mind as long as its only the turbo full of it. Dont dump 6 cans in there a half can for two stuck turbos
Can you delete the waste gate actuator if your manifolds has an external aftermarket wastegate spot that also put pressure on the actual wastegate that come with the turbo
Waste gate needs pressure to open, in this case it is 37psi and the 37psi reading is coming from the compressor. It means it will never open, the ECU probably will default to minimal or limp mode to protect the engine.
Hey. I have such a problem that sometimes after faster acceleration at idle and at low revs, the boost pressure gauge shows negative pressures until I press the gas and the pressures rise again. This usually happens when the car is started when it is warm, never when the engine is cold. Where is the problem?
@@DieselPowerSource Thank you for answering me. I've gone through all the turbo pipes and the boost gauge hose, and I couldn't find a leak. could the fault be caused by the swirlflaps that are in the intake manifold. after examining the leak points, I removed the intake manifold because oil is leaking from under it. I noticed that one of these swirlflap has disappeared.
@@mersuman6395 there should be negative pressure when off gas and at idle. Mine is at -30 off gas and at idle -20. But for my gti probably a little bit different for whatever you have
You are the best at giving directions! Thanks so much for the video.
super well explained
Very well explained. I have 2007 Nissan Qashqai, 1.5dci , wanted to set my turbo. Thank You
hey thanks for the instructions. if I just turn the arm, instead of taking off the clip, will it damage the wastegate actuator?
This video is very very helped to all.best regards🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
this is super helpful! Thank you for posting this
I was about to return my TiAL Wastegate because I though it didnt fit right, lol!
Wdym?
What did you end up doing?
i have shortened the Actuator fully but it would still needed to be shorter little bit. Do you think that the spring in the actuator need to be replaced? it still leaks the pressure under the load.
Does a malfuction wastegate,meaning not opening can make exhaut gas backflow into engine thru valve via ex manifold?
Thank you for this video
Is it necessary to lubricate the shaft (rod) linkage at the entrance to the vacuum housing and where the e-clip is located?
If my waste gate is stuck open can I tighten the actuator to the closed position so I get boost again
no it will be the wastegate door thats jammed if its totally stuck mate. The rod and links get sticky but if they look decent and its jammed up 100% will be carbon gunk behibd the door. On some you can visually see it and can run a scraper around them and get the gunk out. Ive done it a few times with it all still assembled on the car and car never got issues with it again.
THANK YOU SO MUCH
So if your factory boost pressure is 30 psi than the wastegate should start moving at this pressure?
I am having a issue not shure if its the vgt part on a 870 cummins when i am jaking i barely get 10 psi on my turbo boost pressure i am thinking maybe the vanes arent shutting all the way down but i am no turbo expert
From philippines..can you.add..external spring.to add load.?
Hello. Audi A3 8L 1.9TDI (110hp AHF Engine) doesnt make any difference adjusting the wastegate actuator in terms of boost. It has the original garret turbo, and the actuator is working fine as I have tested (n75 valve) with VAG and it works.
What am I missing?
Thanks
brain, turobo is spooled by exhaust gas not magic, without program it wont let u overboost gl
Best way to set up an actuator is a mityvac with the correct settings well done
On my e60 525d acutator making beep sound after I turn engine of and making misfire down power in higher revs?
When your truck is off is the waste gate in the open or closed position?
It is in the closed position.
Mine has been rattling and I will do this process tomorrow but, should I tighten it?
How did you get on ? Mine is rattling to
Mine bmw 328i 2013 has this thing loose ..should i need to change full turbo ? Mechanic said to change full turbo for 2300$
mechanic want ur money
Quindi se la valvola wastegate non è calibrata la turbina,non a pressione vero ?
Does this apply to all turbos
Does it apply to dd15
I took the mounting nuts off the wastegate and wedged it with a nickel and now have boost all the time even after 5000 rpm
You blow it up yet!
@@geroldbernaljr2602 Still running great!!!
@@geroldbernaljr2602😂
I have a 2015 Dmax Fury Twin Turbo i got from new. First things i done was EGR & DPF delete and wastegates. Actuators on it are electric/vac controlled so i pulled the vac lines off and put a screw and tie wrap on each end so the vac system wouldnt grass itself in. Went from 40psi (atmosphere +25psi) to 47psi stable and was a fair bit faster. It would throw up an overboost warning if it was at over 44psi for 4 seconds at a time but when it got the regen mapped out i got him to up the boost cut to 50psi. Never had any issues and it obliterates newer Dmaxes & Hiluxes like they were nothing. Apparently these 4jj and 4jk lumps can take 60psi without even bothering the head gasket and studs. 62-64psi on a big single conversion is when some report them going through head gaskets. My turbos are getting a slightly higher duty but i keep the oil good and doesnt have diesel in the oil from regens so i reckon its well happy. Got a throttle controller for it too and is surprisingly fast in any gear at any rpm
Thanks 😊
Hey guys, my tbd doesnt have any lock nuts on the actuator, is the turbo made to be “fixed” or am I missing something? Cheers
With or without the lock nuts, you can still turn the rod with some pliers. the lock nuts just make it easier to grab a hold of.
What nobody answered you?
I have Cummins 5.9 same not enough Eastgate action, new turbo. .50 mph max...ugh
@@DieselPowerSource I only have one lock nut stainless diesel 63/67 turbo on a 1995 dodge Ram 2500
Can I use plyers to shorten it?
Do I still need to use a computer to calibrate?
can that be done in vgt turbo as well
usually electric vac operated then so youl have a line from the airbox somewhere usually the top l and from that you can trace it to the solenoid that usually has a wee filter cap on the top sometimes light blue. From there one vac hose will go to the wastegate actuator and its only a small amount of vacuum and it opens it. So for to set them get the height sort of right then use a small vac hand pump and wind the rod till you get it to move the rod with the correct vac pressure thay it says in the techbook or online. For example i done twin turbos on a Isuzu Dmax 4jk engine not long ago. So i replaced the actuators and instead of putting the cars vac hoses back on the actuators i just threw my oil vac pump (the one made to suck oil out the dipstick tube) with some hose and pumped it to -7 which the techbook called for and turned the rods till i seen them distinctly shoot open at -7 not just creep open. Stuck the rod ends back on the wastegate door linkage and put the clips back in. Went out with the reader on it looking at overall boost and was bob on the money the actual boost was really close to the target boost throught so got it 100% on the money with nothing more than a £15 oil dipstick vaccum gun👍 See while you are in at it mate if you take it off run some cooker cleaner in the turbo at the veigns but only when you know its all going back together and you can get the car started within an hour or so to blow it through. Your dpf and cat wont mind as long as its only the turbo full of it. Dont dump 6 cans in there a half can for two stuck turbos
Can you delete the waste gate actuator if your manifolds has an external aftermarket wastegate spot that also put pressure on the actual wastegate that come with the turbo
What happens if you remove black pipe between actuator and outlet
Ecu will probably cut off throttle so you don't overboost
Waste gate needs pressure to open, in this case it is 37psi and the 37psi reading is coming from the compressor. It means it will never open, the ECU probably will default to minimal or limp mode to protect the engine.
Is this safe to do?
Yes it is.
my aculator is operated with vacuum not pressure, so I don't understand it
This is a diesel turbo. No vaccum.
Hey. I have such a problem that sometimes after faster acceleration at idle and at low revs, the boost pressure gauge shows negative pressures until I press the gas and the pressures rise again. This usually happens when the car is started when it is warm, never when the engine is cold. Where is the problem?
Check for boost leaks as it should never be a negative boost level. Check your gauges have good connections
@@DieselPowerSource Thank you for answering me. I've gone through all the turbo pipes and the boost gauge hose, and I couldn't find a leak. could the fault be caused by the swirlflaps that are in the intake manifold. after examining the leak points, I removed the intake manifold because oil is leaking from under it. I noticed that one of these swirlflap has disappeared.
@@mersuman6395 there should be negative pressure when off gas and at idle. Mine is at -30 off gas and at idle -20. But for my gti probably a little bit different for whatever you have
@@DieselPowerSource What? -0.5bar of vacuum is standard for any car at idle
@@mersuman6395 Turhaan etit mitää vuotoja, kaikissa autoissa on tyjäkäynnillä puoli baaria vakuumia aka -0.5bar
Turbo go SHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
Americans always make the example of guns, even with aircompression
Because guns are awesome.. guns are the great equalizer.. god did not create all men equal.. mr Colt did. 👍🏻🇺🇸👍🏻
Come fix mine sounds to hard for a dummy like me I have a boost leak won't blow back through I think waste gate stuck closed
I pretty sure those c clips are easily lost
👍👍
Zaboravio si da zavrneš osiguravajuću maticu. Ona nije slučajno tu.
Does this apply to a turbo on mk4 jetta tdi 1999.5?
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Sementara pemanas memakai dinamo-54 bukan tutupnya generator-133
Generator listrik sekadar untuk mempercepat saja..
Misalnya dari 20km/h jadinya 154km/h
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La ou ha ha
Turn your bass down, mids up. I can hardly hear ya.
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