Looks great going to try it out .just a tip if you take the two spare tires off . and put two other tire and rims of a lesser weight your udr will almost stop popping wheelies. i found some old rims and dirt tires and it looks great and performs better . helps keep the front end down . also going to switch out rear differential. and put front in do not like the locker always flips right . just some hints . have fun your RC buddy Bill
I'm in the middle of recording it with a rear diff and I may put the spool back in, I can't just spin the back around to keep it wheels down, it barrel rolls a lot easier now.
Needs the full suspension travel I think. But it definitely landed better. In my opinion it would be perfect if it can get tuned to where it doesn't bottom out from some normal jumping. Stock it bottoms out to easy with normal jumping.
Great concept but you are right in thinking that you should have still left all the stock suspension travel. That's a huge reason why trophy trucks run like they do over rough terrain. You NEED that high amount of droop to allow for the wheels to drop down into holes and ruts and maintain contact with the ground. The issue as you have noticed with this and pretty much all RC trucks is the lack of bottoming out resistance. I love your idea of adding a secondary spring to start changing the spring rate towards the end of travel. There are many ways to go about having that same end effect but the basic concept is to make the shocks progressively stiffer as they get very deep into their travel. Loved the video and the tinkering! That's what it's all about!
I did try running dual bottom out bumpers on each shock on my old Yeti Score truck actually and it worked fairly well. In the case of the UDR, one could put two different "rate" bumpers on the secondary shock that would slow the travel just at the very end of the shock stroke. At one point I was using a silicone earbud and AND a piece of memory foam ear plug on each shocks shaft! lol The more I think about it, the more I think that might actually be the best fix for the UDR's suspension issues. You want something that makes the shocks very progressively harder to compress at the end of their stroke but not something like a spring that will also cause the rear end to rebound too fast causing a whole other set of problems. "Dual rate" twin bottom out bumpers on the unsprung shock shafts just might do the trick boys!
I did notice some rebound in the rear and you can see it in the video in a few spots, thicker oil would slow it down a bit, the earplugs I have available to me wouldn't last at all which ones did you use?
I'm not sure which specific ones they were but I managed to melt a hole through them so I could slide them onto my shocks shafts. They were some sort of memory foam. The ear buds acted as normal bottom out bumpers which I didn't have on hand at the time or I would have just used those. The combination of the two plus having the right amount of droop and correct ride height combined with the right weight oil made for a much more handleable truck.
The droop is caused by the weight of the two rear tires .do not forget that trophy trucks have the weight of the engine, and your shocks will brake those stock trailing arms .thanks for sharing your video with us .
Thinking about using them on the inside and using the stock no spring shocks on the outside, I’d probably have to get rid of the smaller springs due to compression requirements.
Looks a little to stiff for track use but at the same time making shorter limit straps for rear would’ve had same effect and adding more preload to springs. Just giving some tips to help keep it from bucking in air as almost all solid axle rcs do it. Great idea though hope it works for the track
I appreciate it. It now has a different setup, 70wt in both front shocks. Tekno shock in front rear, normal rear shock. Tekno has 55wt and normal has 90. It’s quite a bit stiffer but seems to handle really well.
Exocaged RC don’t forget that it don’t weigh much. To much dampening can have same effect as to much spring rate. I’m currently building a custom trophy truck using front suspension and rear from the udr but front end setup is allot harder than rear. Building is what I do though
Cool thanks. This truck has a lot of sprung weight and this combo seems to work well, if I drove it “scale” I’d run much thinner oils but I like to jump stuff. I may be changing the motor soon for a TP power 2200kv, it’s rated to 8s and is 4.2” long. $160 for it so it’s not cheap but it would move the truck easier, the stock motor hit 174degrees today, not overly bad but with summer coming it will just get worse.
I’ve done a lot of real world off-roading and fabrication myself. The biggest difference I see between these and the real thing is the power. These trucks must have 5000 scale horsepower or more.
Nice video! I would put the old shocks back on. The shocks you installed are too short for the UDR, so the suspension is being limited by the travel of the shocks. Every time you go over bumps and whoops, your truck looks like its bouncing rather then your suspension taking the impact. Also, the additional springs you added is making the UDR suspension stiff.
I adjusted the springs on my UDR and is it working a lot better. I have done a few mods to the suspension to dial it up a bit. I am currently just testing things out right now.. Good luck.
Damn i need to get a second udr then.. One to hit the track with limited droop and stifer swaybar. And one made for bashing with the full on suspension travel...
definitely handles better for racing, but loses some of that scale look/feel for me. to each their own. Curious what motor esc you're running, or is that just what a UDR does when it has a tire that can grip on it? I run mine on 6s all the time but its never ripped like yours does!
I just purchased a udr been watching your videos really good to see you test your parts any idea the weight of your udr with all that aluminum thanks Dan Mo.64093
like this its probably a better basher but it doesnt seem to handle as good in dirt as it does normally , but I think this upgrade could be done depending on how the UDR owner uses his UDR
Great idea, the stock suspension is amazing to watch working and all but it just rolls over too easily to me. I’m gonna set mine up for a track. I still have the Only one in Mississippi so far (as of a few days ago anyway) and I’ve broken a rear trailing arm, which became available the day after i broke it so it’s up and running again! I Snapped a front lower a-arm pin- made another one with 1/8” stainless tig wire. Just been having a good time with it too. The front diff was leaking Bad, talked to Traxxas and they sent me the rebuild kit, grease, and oil. It took Seven hours to install and get running again but what an experience it was! Right now I’m installing carbon fiber vinyl on the panels on the sides and it looks pretty Sharp without the body. Have new numbers on the way and my last name will replace Lofton. Sorry for the long comment brother but i had to share! Keep your UDR Vids coming...
Jeffrey Bozeman awesome and yeah I think this setup will really do well on a real track, just not so much for bashing around. Maybe one day soon we will see stiffer swaybars.
Another thing that happened to mine is the vertical plastic ball joint tie rod- one got a significant bow to it from crashing, so i installed a pair of front end turnbuckle tie rods for my Stampede... i adjusted them the same length as the plastic ones and have crashed many times and so far they have stayed straight 👍🏻
Yep but for racing I think I’ll try it like this. Bashing I’ll probably just let the rear end flow a bit more. Maybe cut the front internal limits to 1/4” to let that move a little more.
Exocaged RC it’s definitely a loose goose. I rolled mine numerous times trying to get a feel for all that power. TSM actually works and is needed in my opinion. Never really used TSM on my XMaxx, but UDR is a whole different animal. I love it, I put about 20 turns on the front and 35- 40 on the rear. Either way it’s an animal on 6s
We don’t have optional swaybars yet so currently there isn’t any other options. When we get stiffer sway bars I’ll let it travel more. I’ve changed the suspension quite a bit from what it is in this video
these rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FTraxxas-8475-Tires-and-wheels-glued-Paddle-tires-foam-inserts-Desert-Racer-4WD%2F362270747859%3Fepid%3D28016645144%26hash%3Ditem545904ecd3%3Ag%3AE24AAOSw2AxazlsW&campid=5338273090&toolid=20008
Not sure if your still answering questions on here , but how do the paddle tires run on concrete/pavement? My original tired in the back wore down 😇 & I was thinking about getting paddle since they have more meat on them
I got mine from ebay, rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FTekno-RC-ET48-3-Truggy-REAR-SHOCKS-SPRINGS-SHAFT-Piston-Cap-Body-Aluminum%2F371924068535%3Fhash%3Ditem569866e8b7%253Ag%253AdfEAAOSwDVtaUGc-%253Asc%253AUSPSFirstClass%252132068%2521US%2521-1%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3Dtekno%2Bet48.3%2Brear%2Bshocks%26_from%3DR40%26rt%3Dnc%26_trksid%3Dm570.l1313&campid=5338273090&toolid=20008
InfiniteRC Logic 45/75 up front could easily be 65/80. For the rear with stock shocks I’d go with 65/80 as well. Thinner on the spring shocks and thicker on the non spring shocks
these rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F2-pair-Traxxas-8475-Paddle-Tires-and-Wheels-Assembled-for-Desert-Racer-UDR-RIGID%2F273189227640%3Fepid%3D28016645144%26hash%3Ditem3f9b58cc78%3Ag%3AWmwAAOSwh9pa6Ql3%3Asc%3AUSPSPriorityFlatRateBox!32068!US!-1&campid=5338273090&toolid=20008
Use thicker fluid on the stock shocks and it will be perfect why kill suspension travel because it sure sounds like you are still useing stock 30wt shock oil
Looks great going to try it out .just a tip if you take the two spare tires off . and put two other tire and rims of a lesser weight your udr will almost stop popping wheelies. i found some old rims and dirt tires and it looks great and performs better . helps keep the front end down . also going to switch out rear differential. and put front in do not like the locker always flips right . just some hints . have fun your RC buddy Bill
I'm in the middle of recording it with a rear diff and I may put the spool back in, I can't just spin the back around to keep it wheels down, it barrel rolls a lot easier now.
Needs the full suspension travel I think.
But it definitely landed better.
In my opinion it would be perfect if it can get tuned to where it doesn't bottom out from some normal jumping.
Stock it bottoms out to easy with normal jumping.
Great concept but you are right in thinking that you should have still left all the stock suspension travel. That's a huge reason why trophy trucks run like they do over rough terrain. You NEED that high amount of droop to allow for the wheels to drop down into holes and ruts and maintain contact with the ground. The issue as you have noticed with this and pretty much all RC trucks is the lack of bottoming out resistance. I love your idea of adding a secondary spring to start changing the spring rate towards the end of travel. There are many ways to go about having that same end effect but the basic concept is to make the shocks progressively stiffer as they get very deep into their travel. Loved the video and the tinkering! That's what it's all about!
Thanks I’d love to see some scale air bumps for this thing and I’ve sent that request to a few places. It’d be awesome to get those.
I did try running dual bottom out bumpers on each shock on my old Yeti Score truck actually and it worked fairly well. In the case of the UDR, one could put two different "rate" bumpers on the secondary shock that would slow the travel just at the very end of the shock stroke. At one point I was using a silicone earbud and AND a piece of memory foam ear plug on each shocks shaft! lol The more I think about it, the more I think that might actually be the best fix for the UDR's suspension issues. You want something that makes the shocks very progressively harder to compress at the end of their stroke but not something like a spring that will also cause the rear end to rebound too fast causing a whole other set of problems. "Dual rate" twin bottom out bumpers on the unsprung shock shafts just might do the trick boys!
I did notice some rebound in the rear and you can see it in the video in a few spots, thicker oil would slow it down a bit, the earplugs I have available to me wouldn't last at all which ones did you use?
I'm not sure which specific ones they were but I managed to melt a hole through them so I could slide them onto my shocks shafts. They were some sort of memory foam. The ear buds acted as normal bottom out bumpers which I didn't have on hand at the time or I would have just used those. The combination of the two plus having the right amount of droop and correct ride height combined with the right weight oil made for a much more handleable truck.
Mike Bromelow A real desert racer does not do wheelies
The droop is caused by the weight of the two rear tires .do not forget that trophy trucks have the weight of the engine, and your shocks will brake those stock trailing arms .thanks for sharing your video with us .
Finally, someone has taken my idea and built it. Nice job!
Update on this vs the Super Baja Rey pls! 🤙🏻
Nice work. maybe mount the shorter, double spring shocks you used further inboard on the trailing arms? should get a touch more droop back.
Thinking about using them on the inside and using the stock no spring shocks on the outside, I’d probably have to get rid of the smaller springs due to compression requirements.
Looks a little to stiff for track use but at the same time making shorter limit straps for rear would’ve had same effect and adding more preload to springs. Just giving some tips to help keep it from bucking in air as almost all solid axle rcs do it. Great idea though hope it works for the track
I appreciate it. It now has a different setup, 70wt in both front shocks. Tekno shock in front rear, normal rear shock. Tekno has 55wt and normal has 90. It’s quite a bit stiffer but seems to handle really well.
Exocaged RC don’t forget that it don’t weigh much. To much dampening can have same effect as to much spring rate. I’m currently building a custom trophy truck using front suspension and rear from the udr but front end setup is allot harder than rear. Building is what I do though
Cool thanks. This truck has a lot of sprung weight and this combo seems to work well, if I drove it “scale” I’d run much thinner oils but I like to jump stuff. I may be changing the motor soon for a TP power 2200kv, it’s rated to 8s and is 4.2” long. $160 for it so it’s not cheap but it would move the truck easier, the stock motor hit 174degrees today, not overly bad but with summer coming it will just get worse.
Being an rc addict and a mechanic with racing background give me a different perspective on how to setup the suspension.
I’ve done a lot of real world off-roading and fabrication myself. The biggest difference I see between these and the real thing is the power. These trucks must have 5000 scale horsepower or more.
Nice video! I would put the old shocks back on. The shocks you installed are too short for the UDR, so the suspension is being limited by the travel of the shocks. Every time you go over bumps and whoops, your truck looks like its bouncing rather then your suspension taking the impact. Also, the additional springs you added is making the UDR suspension stiff.
Yeah I’ll get the travel back but I want more spring in the back
I adjusted the springs on my UDR and is it working a lot better. I have done a few mods to the suspension to dial it up a bit. I am currently just testing things out right now.. Good luck.
Damn i need to get a second udr then.. One to hit the track with limited droop and stifer swaybar. And one made for bashing with the full on suspension travel...
LoL YES!!! I hope to see some stiffer swaybars soon. Heck with a good set of those you may not need to limit it very much at all.
definitely handles better for racing, but loses some of that scale look/feel for me. to each their own. Curious what motor esc you're running, or is that just what a UDR does when it has a tire that can grip on it? I run mine on 6s all the time but its never ripped like yours does!
Awesome video excellent truck WICKED slow motion shots so cool what a major change
I just bought a udr wow did you ever change how it drives. What a difference..looking forward to more udr vids.thumbs way up.
Thanks. I had it on the oval today and it was totally awesome!!
This was a good idea as it eliminates the back squat the car usually has.
Great viseo
Yeah but I need more rear travel for bashing around.
What motor and esc? It was flying!
What was the final results?
Love it. It look like its working well.I might do that too.
Thanks for the video.
Love your channel.
👍🤘❤🇨🇦
That’s a hell of a roost with those paddle tires.
I just purchased a udr been watching your videos really good to see you test your parts any idea the weight of your udr with all that aluminum thanks Dan Mo.64093
like this its probably a better basher but it doesnt seem to handle as good in dirt as it does normally , but I think this upgrade could be done depending on how the UDR owner uses his UDR
Great vid, only one way to find what works best for you is to try it out! Can you change the bar in the sway bar, maybe you can make a stiffer one!
I really want a stiffer bar at both ends but they aren’t available yet. And yeah I gotta try stuff out to see what works and don’t.
Nice mod man!! Excellent job! 😊
Great idea, the stock suspension is amazing to watch working and all but it just rolls over too easily to me. I’m gonna set mine up for a track. I still have the Only one in Mississippi so far (as of a few days ago anyway) and I’ve broken a rear trailing arm, which became available the day after i broke it so it’s up and running again! I Snapped a front lower a-arm pin- made another one with 1/8” stainless tig wire. Just been having a good time with it too. The front diff was leaking Bad, talked to Traxxas and they sent me the rebuild kit, grease, and oil. It took Seven hours to install and get running again but what an experience it was! Right now I’m installing carbon fiber vinyl on the panels on the sides and it looks pretty Sharp without the body. Have new numbers on the way and my last name will replace Lofton. Sorry for the long comment brother but i had to share! Keep your UDR Vids coming...
Jeffrey Bozeman awesome and yeah I think this setup will really do well on a real track, just not so much for bashing around. Maybe one day soon we will see stiffer swaybars.
Another thing that happened to mine is the vertical plastic ball joint tie rod- one got a significant bow to it from crashing, so i installed a pair of front end turnbuckle tie rods for my Stampede... i adjusted them the same length as the plastic ones and have crashed many times and so far they have stayed straight 👍🏻
👍👍👊👊📹📹 nice I just got my paddle tires for my udr also!
oh man give them things a run, insanely awesome!!! Congrats!!
Exocaged RC Thanks brotha ya I’m super excited to try them out for sure!
I like those shocks on that...like you said especially on a track...
Yeah they work well on a track.
It's always a trade off between mechanical grip and car behavior.
Loose=tire compliance
Stiff=responsiveness
Good Video I would have left all the travel in the suspension. It's a desert racer , not a track car💪👍👍😎
Yep but for racing I think I’ll try it like this. Bashing I’ll probably just let the rear end flow a bit more. Maybe cut the front internal limits to 1/4” to let that move a little more.
Exocaged RC it’s definitely a loose goose. I rolled mine numerous times trying to get a feel for all that power. TSM actually works and is needed in my opinion. Never really used TSM on my XMaxx, but UDR is a whole different animal. I love it, I put about 20 turns on the front and 35- 40 on the rear. Either way it’s an animal on 6s
Should change the rear swaybar instead of shortening the shock travel. Stiffen up rear helps eliminate bodyroll but also suffers bump absorb.
We don’t have optional swaybars yet so currently there isn’t any other options. When we get stiffer sway bars I’ll let it travel more. I’ve changed the suspension quite a bit from what it is in this video
Bad ass. Suspension looks like it’s doing a good job with the mods
What kind of engine and esc are you running, and batteries?
What wheels and tyres are you using (the sand set up?) Cool vids
these rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FTraxxas-8475-Tires-and-wheels-glued-Paddle-tires-foam-inserts-Desert-Racer-4WD%2F362270747859%3Fepid%3D28016645144%26hash%3Ditem545904ecd3%3Ag%3AE24AAOSw2AxazlsW&campid=5338273090&toolid=20008
You put the spacers where?
Love it.. running on 8s
Just 6S here.
Went from amazing trave udrl to bouncy ball udr
Yeah. Kinda want to take it back but at full droop the front maxes out the CVD’s and I broke a few. Like this it don’t break them.
Damn, 👍🏿 powerful 💪🏿
Does it matter to have 2X sets of paddle tires on it?
Robert S Tiest in some ways no, the rear just pushes this thing around and carries the front end all over the place.
@@ExocagedRC So yes I would need 2x sets then if running 22.2V so it dont fish tail. Thank you.
Nice mate :)
Not sure if your still answering questions on here , but how do the paddle tires run on concrete/pavement? My original tired in the back wore down 😇 & I was thinking about getting paddle since they have more meat on them
Pavement will just eat them up really bad and fast, save the paddles for loose sand. I'd run the stock tires for all pavement stuff.
Okayy thanks for the advise and Can you link where you got the shocks ?
I got mine from ebay, rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FTekno-RC-ET48-3-Truggy-REAR-SHOCKS-SPRINGS-SHAFT-Piston-Cap-Body-Aluminum%2F371924068535%3Fhash%3Ditem569866e8b7%253Ag%253AdfEAAOSwDVtaUGc-%253Asc%253AUSPSFirstClass%252132068%2521US%2521-1%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3Dtekno%2Bet48.3%2Brear%2Bshocks%26_from%3DR40%26rt%3Dnc%26_trksid%3Dm570.l1313&campid=5338273090&toolid=20008
Your the best 🙏🏽
What are part numbers for those internal springs?
I got them off of some axial shocks and they fit, I'll do some digging and see if I can get something figured out.
Good deal. Looks pretty damn cool.
What were the shocks name again?
How hot is it there I live in AZ so if I get one I want to know how heavy ill have to go on the weight.
InfiniteRC Logic 45/75 up front could easily be 65/80. For the rear with stock shocks I’d go with 65/80 as well. Thinner on the spring shocks and thicker on the non spring shocks
Thanks man!
it’s like lifting a touring car.. 🤣🤣🤣
What’s the length of the shocks? Will they work on a slash?
james192197 the fronts maybe, tears are too long. I don’t have the exact measurements.
Exocaged RC thanks
J is that 8S?
awesome vid
JOE CAM amazing no, just 6S.
i cant find those tires and rims paddle tires.
whats the name of those paddle tires?
these rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F2-pair-Traxxas-8475-Paddle-Tires-and-Wheels-Assembled-for-Desert-Racer-UDR-RIGID%2F273189227640%3Fepid%3D28016645144%26hash%3Ditem3f9b58cc78%3Ag%3AWmwAAOSwh9pa6Ql3%3Asc%3AUSPSPriorityFlatRateBox!32068!US!-1&campid=5338273090&toolid=20008
How do you like the tires?
Caleb Bottoms I absolutely love the tires. Shows me just how bad the stock tires are so I’ll be doing a tread cutting video soon.
bro is it hard to change the lower front A Arm? i just mangaled one lol
Not bad at all. If you look at one of my earlier videos where I take the front end apart, you can see how it goes together
thanks Joe
What pinion and spur youre using sir?
Stock 27t pinion and 51t spur
Exocaged RC what is the top speed of that set up sir?
@@krystelgale2250 I think I got somewhere around 50mph, I have a speed test with it on asphalt, grass and sand
What wheels are,you running
traxxas sand tires rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FTraxxas-8475-Paddle-Tires-Wheels-Assembled-Glued-2-Desert-Racer-UDR-FOX%2F282946649968%3Fepid%3D28016645144%26hash%3Ditem41e0ef3f70%3Ag%3ABNkAAOSwZtNa5--F%3Asc%3AUSPSPriorityFlatRateBox!32068!US!-1&campid=5338273090&toolid=20008
Use thicker fluid on the stock shocks and it will be perfect why kill suspension travel because it sure sounds like you are still useing stock 30wt shock oil
Not stock oil. 45/75 front and 65/40 in rear. 40 in the Tekno shocks in the rear. I will get that rear end moving a bit more.
Idk it seemed more stable & had less body roll
Yeah it was more stable but I think it would be more fun and scale to have full suspension for this style terrain
Looks like it hobbles around now=[ took all the suppleness and forgiving out=[ that's what makes a desert racer a desert racer!!=(
the car seems to go faster
not really
that thing is way to stiff... it didnt take 5 seconds to see it!!
Wow that thing shifts. Are you running 6S?
k0ppit yep just 6S on this video.
this car iou want a track cars not ment for a track if you want a track car you should go get one
This truck is fine on a track and off
I think it handles like crap now.
On a track it actually did a bit better but for bashing around it didn’t do very good.
Now stiff like a boring SCT.....
nope, its nowhere near what an SCT is. At this point the truck has a whole different setup.
ok, someone didn´t got it....
What were the shock's name again?
UltraCookieGaming Tekno ET48 rear shocks
What other shocks do you recommend
UltraCookieGaming maybe Losi Truggy rear
What were the shock's name again?