Take the broken old motor, core the old shaft out, and put a new, BIGGER, one in. The motor is fine, it's the junk shaft that broke. No reason to throw it away when you have a lathe + CNC setup.
yes, please do this. most motors of this size actually have a decent sized shaft inside the motor that is then necked down to a smaller size for the pinion. it would also be interesting if you could heat treat the new shaft for strength
That shaft is probably pressed into a neodynium magnet, so if he can get it out without breaking the magnet... It would be better to use an external starter unit. Have a hand held motor and battery unit with an output shaft that interfaces with a drive on the crank or flywheel. HPI Shaft start style (lots of racing cars use this style of starter too). This would provide a large weight reduction to the car as well.
Maybe those rods are the chinesium that everyone is talking about. Melting point is only 480C so it has something more than just some aluminum into it.
Just found your channel yesterday. I'm not an RC guy at all, but I am fascinated with mechanical things since I was a kid in the 1970's-80's and worked as a machinist for a short time making parts for agricultural equipment. Ever since then I've had an interest in machining, and the equipment you are using is really interesting to me as well. I dig seeing people doing the things that they love, so you're bringing a lot to the platform for me to enjoy, and probably learn a few things along the way. Thanks for that and keep it up! New subscriber.
To bend thin walled small dia tubing, I fill it with tin, then form it as needed like I would form a rod and finally melt out the tin again. Works well with tin solder
1:58 there's a trick used in musical instrument making, specially brass instruments, to bend the pipes: they fill the pipe with water and soap, and then freeze it, or some kind of hot wax that then solidifies. The rigitdity of the ice prevents the pipe from beeing kinked, and the bubbles from the foam give it some allowance to move. Check here: ruclips.net/video/uIqDhO1iddo/видео.html (4:56). In that example they use some sort of soft metal. Here (ruclips.net/video/_eoGFpAiaoc/видео.html) they do it with some sort of pitch/hot wax.
Love the attention to detail , cleaning the welds and rounding stuff off doesnt take much longer but results are 400% better . Love watching your work , propper tradie right there
Great vidéo again!! The assembly of both parts is done by soldering, not welding though (during welding, both parts to be assembled metals are also melted, not during soldering). Great engineering and video editing, thanks for sharing!!
Brushless is far easier, faster, and so many other advantages, but you can’t beat that sound and smell!!!!!! When I have a bad day with nitro trucks I always want to throw in the towel and go brushless, just feels more real with a proper engine
I assume he does this full time... The amount of time you need to do these kind of projects with such high quality is insane. I think about it all the time when I record my projects. This kind of "RUclipsrs" work A LOT 💪
@@EliteWorm That would make sense too. Most RUclipsrs can provide a living from making videos when they pass 400-500K subscribers, Johnny has 1 million which should be sufficient to provide a living :) Although, definitely an engineering background cause his skills is not something you just find in the back of your pocket ;)
@@sebbelito2975 Engineering background not necessarily (but likely). He definitely has some kind of background working in or around machining if nothing else.
Just wanted to point out, it doesn't help the content creators at all, if everybody would blindly hit the like button of all their videos. Watch the video, then like it or dislike it so the creator knows in which direction her/his videos will have to go.
In a future upload: " I noticed the engine didn't have much power at higher rpm...so anyway I build VTEC for it lmao. Smol engine go BAAAAAAAAAAAHH " LOVE THIS PROJECT DUDE!!!
What is the firing sequence of this engine? Normally in a 4cyl 4 stroke engine, only one cylinder is on intake stroke at a time, so the distance in the manifold should not make a difference.
@@Wulthrin that would make a difference as any 2 pistons at a given moment would be on their intake/exhaust stroke. ( assuming the crankshaft is that of a more generic flatplane design )
@@Wulthrin but in his previous video, didn't this engine have an OHV setup? I do remember seen grease lathered all over the intake and exhaust valves because the motor hasn't run prior to Johnny getting it. If that were the case then maybe this is a 4 stroke? Not sure since I haven't seen that video in a good while
Brass instruments are shaped with thin walled tubing filled with ice. They actually fill the tubes with water. Freeze them. Then do the bends to make sure the tubes don't collapse. Worth a try if you need to do that again.
Hey Johnny, I don't know if you are going to read this but you should try to do a intake mani as old bmw ohc engines had in the 80s. It's some kind of equal lenght tubes so the air to each cyl runs the almost same distance from the throttle body . Cheers.
Thoughts on the intake.. 1.Three 90 degree bends are less then optimal for feeding the cylinders. 2.The air will need to make an 180 degree bend feed the cylinder below the carb... 3. The decreased air velocity will reduce engine power. I would recommend looking at how v8 plenums as an example.
4:11 Video idea: Make tools that are more comfortable, with more clearance for your fingers. Just a thought. I like everything you film, so I'd like this as well. 😁
Having seen hurco tool station cncs and older bridge port interact 2s, this pocket nc makes me happy. Seems a great bit of kit. Needs to be called the k9 intake as looks like one.
I thought about the amount of overhung load on that motor shaft when you made the pully. Also, you can get solder for aluminum on amazon. I have used it many times when I don't want to tig weld something. If everything is super clean it works well.
I love that Pocket CNC, but what's with the chatter? It definitely seems accurate enough to get better finishing results. I use those aluminum sticks often and they work great. As I'm sure you noticed, you've gotta get the base material quite hot. It's more of a soldering/brazing technique, letting the base material melt the rod rather than the torch. Using a torch with a fine tip would be much more beneficial.
Hey Johnny! When this amazing build is all done i hope you consider doing a crazy RC boat build! Maybe with that little wankle! Keep up the great work!
For bending pipe like that I would recommend a low melting temp metal like say gallium or lead and fill the pipe with it then bend it, it will kink way less and you can melt the core out afterwards
Still going to be getting uneven flow, a crossflow dual-carb setup would be cool. Basically the same as what you've got, but with another carbointed opposite the one you have now.
William Apodaca yes, but that would require a 180 degrees turn in the back carburettor's air inlet tube, which is a problem for two reasons: -he is unable to make such a tube -it would mean that the cack carburettor would get less air, so it would still be uneven A a flow disturber (like a steel grid) put into the start of the manifold would be way easier to implement, and would be much more effective.
This alumnium part actually turned great !!! For the starter motor you need a higher torque motor but it will probaly have a bigger diameter. When it comes to BLDC motor diamerter is often linked to torque and lenght to RPM. Find a low KV rated motor. Keep up with the great work man
Johnny Q whenever you made that new intake manifold it looked like a supercharger inlet on my man he should so make like a supercharger that sits on top of the motor either than that one that you attempted to make a long time ago when man that be so cool on that v4 engine I really hope you take this into consideration and use it for a future project
If those are the stuff that is sold with "technoweld" and other brands, you should be heating the pieces so that the flame doesn't melt the rod, but the heat from the welded pieces is. Melt the rod on top and scrape the pieces to be joined through the melted rod with stainless steel spike. You can feel how the base metal melts and mixes with the rod material (it isn't aluminum, but some kind of handy alloy). You can then add more rod material with direct heat into the seam if you need to.
When we hand bend boiler tubes at work we pack them full of sand and seal off the ends (not air tight but tight enough that too much sand can’t fall out) maybe it would work for these little guys.
this really shows the complexity of an ICE versus an electric motor, I Mean hell his whole car basically has a low-end electric RC system, just to run the engine. Crazy, this is why the electric RC cars are dominating the market
John, seem like you need a little more torque on that starter motor. My suggestion if you chose to accept it is to use some pinion gear with another spur to get a higher mechanical advantage. Since your using a brushless, you have the speed and you know that in-runners have more speed than torque. You can switch to an out-runner which have more torque than speed but only will know if that would work in this application. Thanks my Two Cents. Great video and thumbs up. Keep safe - from Brooklyn NY.
Next time you go to braze with those rods make sure you’re allowing the heat in the part to melt them, not the torch. If the part is what’s melting then you’ll get nice beads that flow. Molten metal follows heat which is what gives those nice concave fillets of metal when pipe soldering.
I highly doubt the rear cylinders barely breathed. The most likely chance is if 2 cylinders had an intake stroke at the same time, but if you were worried about it, all you would have to do is make sure air is coming from top, not front. The only thing changed with the manifold is the resonance (due to different length runners). Lovely build non-the-less! 😀
castle creations has some pretty powerful 1/16th scale motors. I've never seen a brushless motor shear a driveshaft before...stranger things. The VXL motor is a pretty high rpm low torque motor, if you need more torque try either a 4/6 pole brushless motor or a 100t brushed motor, whatever tickles your fancy :)
Johhny love the channel mate, such skill on such a minute level, ive been following this build for a while now and cant wait to see the finished product. I've zero CNC experience but might I reccomend a mini rothenberger oxy acetylene torch for brazing the little parts i think it would help you concentrate the heat !!
Instead of the aluminum sticks would silver soldering work? I have seen you soft solder before and it is the same except with higher temperatures and a different stronger solder. You get the benefit (and penalties) of needing flux. It would give you better penetration under larger objects.
All this stuff is cool. Really cool. But you need to look into weight management. There are some really good (vented and cross drilled) sets already on the market. For much larger vehicles. Like the REVO. I can lock up all 4 tires at about 30 mph.
Well, you actually MAY recommend this type of welding for parts exposed to a high mechanical stress. My personal experience proved with other folks' results showed the fact that the HTS 2000 and similar solders are in fact way tougher than most of the aluminum alloys - and are not as fragile as you may expect from AlSi alloy breed. They also grip soldered parts deadly and in most cases it's easier to tear one of the soldered details apart then to make the seam let go.
was hoping you were gona bust out the tig and do some tiny welding (tiny welding is cool af) but to get the results you did with the alumiweld, youd have be a pretty good tig welder. After puting the work in the alumiweld turned out just fine.:3
Over thinking the intake and flow. Look at how full size engines do theirs. I was actually thinking to move the runners, maybe a slight angle where it picks up fuel. Should be interesting to see how this version runs though!
You talking like vertical runners like older carbed cars? Dont think he has the clearance under the body for that. One reason he doesn't wanna use the individuals. But that would be a good set up if he had the space
You my Friend always amaze me n give me inspiration for what we can do n make for RC Everything. 👌😎 God Bless n Godspeed to you buddy. Stay safe n yr loved one's RC4LIFE 👍👍😎😀💙
It would probably be beneficial to use a very small dremel tip to "port" the interior edges of the manifold/plenem. Reducing the sharp corners that the air has to flow around helps improve performance quite a bit.
i feel like in this case porting would be a pretty big effort for very little gain. assuming the ports on the manifold are slightly smaller than on the heads you'd get a bit more air in but I doubt in its current state it'd be worth it.
I like the ingenuity, but I have a feeling making the air fuel mixture take a 90 degree turn right after its atomized may cause the fuel to fall out of the air, on top of the tight turn killing air velocity. Might I suggest a dual carb setup with the carbs on the side of the intake manifold, with a nice slight curve going to the intake runners?
One wonder if there's a possibility to port those two valve heads?? I mean everyone want to use a better manifold and carb... but at the end of the day that doesn't mean nothing with out opening the intake ports.... Hey then you'll get cut on the catch 22 and have to open the exhaust side as well.....
Take the broken old motor, core the old shaft out, and put a new, BIGGER, one in. The motor is fine, it's the junk shaft that broke. No reason to throw it away when you have a lathe + CNC setup.
yes, please do this. most motors of this size actually have a decent sized shaft inside the motor that is then necked down to a smaller size for the pinion. it would also be interesting if you could heat treat the new shaft for strength
That shaft is probably pressed into a neodynium magnet, so if he can get it out without breaking the magnet...
It would be better to use an external starter unit. Have a hand held motor and battery unit with an output shaft that interfaces with a drive on the crank or flywheel. HPI Shaft start style (lots of racing cars use this style of starter too). This would provide a large weight reduction to the car as well.
@@bradcomis1066 All depends if being able to start it remotely with the body on is a priority.
@@themadscientest why? and you can also start it from the bottom
I believe you are aluminum brazing, as you are not melting the parent metal. You would need a TIG welder to actually weld aluminum.
jp this is brazing not welding. I recommend next time use some flux for aluminum.
I only know this because of this old tony
Maybe those rods are the chinesium that everyone is talking about. Melting point is only 480C so it has something more than just some aluminum into it.
Actually you can weld aluminum with oxygen and acetylene. TIG just happens to be more efficient.
No flux in aluminum brazing but ya do need to get the oxidation off a bit.
I imagine this engine with a twin screw supercharger and a scoop to de carburetor breath fresh air *-*
I was thinking 4 carb crossram with 4 inch runners to increase torque.
a supercharger wont work on such a small engine sadly
@@FrmerK20 what about a centrifugal supercharger?
@@someguyontheinternet5944 Johnny already tried that but couldnt achieve high enough rpms to make any boost. It was just a fan.
@@FrmerK20 Turbo anyone??
Just found your channel yesterday. I'm not an RC guy at all, but I am fascinated with mechanical things since I was a kid in the 1970's-80's and worked as a machinist for a short time making parts for agricultural equipment. Ever since then I've had an interest in machining, and the equipment you are using is really interesting to me as well. I dig seeing people doing the things that they love, so you're bringing a lot to the platform for me to enjoy, and probably learn a few things along the way. Thanks for that and keep it up! New subscriber.
To bend thin walled small dia tubing, I fill it with tin, then form it as needed like I would form a rod and finally melt out the tin again. Works well with tin solder
1:58 there's a trick used in musical instrument making, specially brass instruments, to bend the pipes: they fill the pipe with water and soap, and then freeze it, or some kind of hot wax that then solidifies. The rigitdity of the ice prevents the pipe from beeing kinked, and the bubbles from the foam give it some allowance to move. Check here: ruclips.net/video/uIqDhO1iddo/видео.html (4:56). In that example they use some sort of soft metal. Here (ruclips.net/video/_eoGFpAiaoc/видео.html) they do it with some sort of pitch/hot wax.
Love the attention to detail , cleaning the welds and rounding stuff off doesnt take much longer but results are 400% better .
Love watching your work , propper tradie right there
this is BY FAR the best series on youtube right now. I actually Rush to watch them when i get notified.
Watching your videos repeating each step again and again is the best time pass in quarantine ♥️
I love how u also show failures and be true to ur audience
I love this project and have been following it alonnnnggggg time! Keep up the amazing work/craftsmanship!
Great vidéo again!! The assembly of both parts is done by soldering, not welding though (during welding, both parts to be assembled metals are also melted, not during soldering). Great engineering and video editing, thanks for sharing!!
You could make a cool hybrid setup with the engine and starter, just how the starter seems to be more powerful than the engine
Brushless is far easier, faster, and so many other advantages, but you can’t beat that sound and smell!!!!!! When I have a bad day with nitro trucks I always want to throw in the towel and go brushless, just feels more real with a proper engine
Congratulations on reaching 1 million subs. Awesome!
Does your job have something to do with engineering or do you just do this a hobby?
I assume he does this full time... The amount of time you need to do these kind of projects with such high quality is insane. I think about it all the time when I record my projects. This kind of "RUclipsrs" work A LOT 💪
@@EliteWorm That would make sense too. Most RUclipsrs can provide a living from making videos when they pass 400-500K subscribers, Johnny has 1 million which should be sufficient to provide a living :) Although, definitely an engineering background cause his skills is not something you just find in the back of your pocket ;)
@@sebbelito2975 Yeah, I agree 100% 👍
@@sebbelito2975 Engineering background not necessarily (but likely). He definitely has some kind of background working in or around machining if nothing else.
@Brennan Hamblin And I am sure that he keeps learning as he builds things!
6:30
Bro you are always doing it right you bring me peace in my soul when I watch your vids this ish entrancing
**Sees JohnnyQ90 uploaded 2 seconds ago**
Me: *_Click on video and presses like before video starts_*
Also Me: *"IM SPEED"*
Congratulations for your new coron... err, internet-point.
If you like a video before watching it, youtube may not actually count it as a like
Just wanted to point out, it doesn't help the content creators at all, if everybody would blindly hit the like button of all their videos. Watch the video, then like it or dislike it so the creator knows in which direction her/his videos will have to go.
Me too
That's what I love, no talking, just work
In a future upload:
" I noticed the engine didn't have much power at higher rpm...so anyway I build VTEC for it lmao. Smol engine go BAAAAAAAAAAAHH "
LOVE THIS PROJECT DUDE!!!
I thought you were going to tig weld them, was not expecting a torch and aluminum sticks.
Still a good mechanical bond, but the base metal wasn't melted. Low temp braze or high temp solder. Either way, it wan't welding.
Love the way it looks, and would love to do this myself.
For aluminum brazing you made it look very good that was incredibly smooth for aluminum brazing
What is the firing sequence of this engine? Normally in a 4cyl 4 stroke engine, only one cylinder is on intake stroke at a time, so the distance in the manifold should not make a difference.
My thoughts exactly🤔
Was just about to post this.
pretty sure this is a 2 stroke motor. dunno if it makes any difference
@@Wulthrin that would make a difference as any 2 pistons at a given moment would be on their intake/exhaust stroke. ( assuming the crankshaft is that of a more generic flatplane design )
@@Wulthrin but in his previous video, didn't this engine have an OHV setup? I do remember seen grease lathered all over the intake and exhaust valves because the motor hasn't run prior to Johnny getting it.
If that were the case then maybe this is a 4 stroke? Not sure since I haven't seen that video in a good while
Uploaded: 7 seconds ago
man i am fast
So you were the naked man running quickly down the street like the Flash?
@@TheHungrySlug how did you even see me?
@@ipadize My super sight of one eye. I miss nothing.
But disaster. .
What is the name of background music at 8:25 , please!
Brass instruments are shaped with thin walled tubing filled with ice. They actually fill the tubes with water. Freeze them. Then do the bends to make sure the tubes don't collapse. Worth a try if you need to do that again.
Hey Johnny, I don't know if you are going to read this but you should try to do a intake mani as old bmw ohc engines had in the 80s. It's some kind of equal lenght tubes so the air to each cyl runs the almost same distance from the throttle body . Cheers.
This guy posting new videos is like the earth squirting out gold
I enjoy watching you work
It's always great when you can make your own parts. Great engineering skills
Necesito ver este auto terminado. Es un placer ver tus videos xD
Add a gear reduction to the starter and it should work better.
Thoughts on the intake.. 1.Three 90 degree bends are less then optimal for feeding the cylinders. 2.The air will need to make an 180 degree bend feed the cylinder below the carb... 3. The decreased air velocity will reduce engine power. I would recommend looking at how v8 plenums as an example.
4:11 Video idea: Make tools that are more comfortable, with more clearance for your fingers. Just a thought. I like everything you film, so I'd like this as well. 😁
Having seen hurco tool station cncs and older bridge port interact 2s, this pocket nc makes me happy. Seems a great bit of kit. Needs to be called the k9 intake as looks like one.
Awsome job on the aluminum joining, especially for your first go at it!
I thought about the amount of overhung load on that motor shaft when you made the pully. Also, you can get solder for aluminum on amazon. I have used it many times when I don't want to tig weld something. If everything is super clean it works well.
I love that Pocket CNC, but what's with the chatter? It definitely seems accurate enough to get better finishing results.
I use those aluminum sticks often and they work great. As I'm sure you noticed, you've gotta get the base material quite hot. It's more of a soldering/brazing technique, letting the base material melt the rod rather than the torch. Using a torch with a fine tip would be much more beneficial.
Hey Johnny! When this amazing build is all done i hope you consider doing a crazy RC boat build! Maybe with that little wankle! Keep up the great work!
For bending pipe like that I would recommend a low melting temp metal like say gallium or lead and fill the pipe with it then bend it, it will kink way less and you can melt the core out afterwards
Still going to be getting uneven flow, a crossflow dual-carb setup would be cool. Basically the same as what you've got, but with another carbointed opposite the one you have now.
William Apodaca
yes, but that would require a 180 degrees turn in the back carburettor's air inlet tube, which is a problem for two reasons:
-he is unable to make such a tube
-it would mean that the cack carburettor would get less air, so it would still be uneven
A a flow disturber (like a steel grid) put into the start of the manifold would be way easier to implement, and would be much more effective.
Why won't u make a little turbo for that tho?! I wanna see a little turbo
I would have not clicked if It was any other youtuber, but its our lord and mechanic JOHNNYQ90
Y'all got some patients and cool tools
This guy has the best quarantine break
Every time you go do anything, something invariably goes wrong. It's how we learn... It's frustrating, but in the end it's rewarding.
This alumnium part actually turned great !!! For the starter motor you need a higher torque motor but it will probaly have a bigger diameter. When it comes to BLDC motor diamerter is often linked to torque and lenght to RPM. Find a low KV rated motor. Keep up with the great work man
compressed air starter motor should work also.
Great work as always but I am not sure if the right angle on the manifold intake is a good idea?
Phenomenal work as always.
I admit that I'm curious as to why you didn't try a dual carb setup, offset front and rear slightly to keep the height profile down?
yo johnny i love these vids btw my bday tomorrow!
I'm loving this project.
6:16 what did you spray on the sand paper?
Great video, I love your channel
Johnny Q whenever you made that new intake manifold it looked like a supercharger inlet on my man he should so make like a supercharger that sits on top of the motor either than that one that you attempted to make a long time ago when man that be so cool on that v4 engine I really hope you take this into consideration and use it for a future project
If those are the stuff that is sold with "technoweld" and other brands, you should be heating the pieces so that the flame doesn't melt the rod, but the heat from the welded pieces is. Melt the rod on top and scrape the pieces to be joined through the melted rod with stainless steel spike. You can feel how the base metal melts and mixes with the rod material (it isn't aluminum, but some kind of handy alloy).
You can then add more rod material with direct heat into the seam if you need to.
When we hand bend boiler tubes at work we pack them full of sand and seal off the ends (not air tight but tight enough that too much sand can’t fall out) maybe it would work for these little guys.
Man sorry about your starter. But great video and thank you for sharing your project with us. I got sucked in at the very first video!
try tig welding for welding aluminium comes out really nice once u get used to it
Very relaxing after being bombarded with MSM panic stirrings, thanks.
Did you try filling the tubing with an incompressible medium, like fine sand or oil, and sealing off the ends before bending it?
this really shows the complexity of an ICE versus an electric motor, I Mean hell his whole car basically has a low-end electric RC system, just to run the engine. Crazy, this is why the electric RC cars are dominating the market
John, seem like you need a little more torque on that starter motor.
My suggestion if you chose to accept it is to use some pinion gear with another spur to get a higher mechanical advantage. Since your using a brushless, you have the speed and you know that in-runners have more speed than torque. You can switch to an out-runner which have more torque than speed but only will know if that would work in this application.
Thanks my Two Cents.
Great video and thumbs up.
Keep safe - from Brooklyn NY.
Next time you go to braze with those rods make sure you’re allowing the heat in the part to melt them, not the torch. If the part is what’s melting then you’ll get nice beads that flow. Molten metal follows heat which is what gives those nice concave fillets of metal when pipe soldering.
عاشت ايدك يابطل ولله اني فخور بيك وأحييك يابطل على هاذه صناعات الجميله اروعه البديعه حقيقه تسر اناظر والله 👏👏💪💪
I like how you refer to filler rods as aluminium welding sticks.
I highly doubt the rear cylinders barely breathed. The most likely chance is if 2 cylinders had an intake stroke at the same time, but if you were worried about it, all you would have to do is make sure air is coming from top, not front.
The only thing changed with the manifold is the resonance (due to different length runners).
Lovely build non-the-less! 😀
Please update more videos durin these quarantine days!
castle creations has some pretty powerful 1/16th scale motors. I've never seen a brushless motor shear a driveshaft before...stranger things. The VXL motor is a pretty high rpm low torque motor, if you need more torque try either a 4/6 pole brushless motor or a 100t brushed motor, whatever tickles your fancy :)
Make more items.... please make our quarantine a little bit better🤗
I love the process !!!
Cant wait for ure rc car was fully made.Goodluck bro!👍
For bending the tubes tight, you have to fill them with sand and close the ends of and then bend them. That way they can't "collapse" like they did.
Johhny love the channel mate, such skill on such a minute level, ive been following this build for a while now and cant wait to see the finished product.
I've zero CNC experience but might I reccomend a mini rothenberger oxy acetylene torch for brazing the little parts i think it would help you concentrate the heat !!
FYI filling the tubes with a material like sand will really help them take the extra stress while doing tight bends.
3:30 why did you make a hole in the end, only to plug it anyway?
Because I had to hollow the inside and there was no other way to do this, than drilling it and plugging it back.
Your work is amazing
are the shafts for the start motor an appropriate material? I am surprised that there would be enough power to shear it
It's always nice Johnny, to see one of your videos, especially when the state confines everyone at home because of the Covid-19 (☣️)‼️😉👍🇨🇵
Instead of the aluminum sticks would silver soldering work? I have seen you soft solder before and it is the same except with higher temperatures and a different stronger solder. You get the benefit (and penalties) of needing flux. It would give you better penetration under larger objects.
You sir, make me want to get back into RC...
All this stuff is cool. Really cool. But you need to look into weight management. There are some really good (vented and cross drilled) sets already on the market. For much larger vehicles. Like the REVO. I can lock up all 4 tires at about 30 mph.
Wow, very good video!
The best chanel build RC moster 👍👍
Well, you actually MAY recommend this type of welding for parts exposed to a high mechanical stress.
My personal experience proved with other folks' results showed the fact that the HTS 2000 and similar solders are in fact way tougher than most of the aluminum alloys - and are not as fragile as you may expect from AlSi alloy breed.
They also grip soldered parts deadly and in most cases it's easier to tear one of the soldered details apart then to make the seam let go.
was hoping you were gona bust out the tig and do some tiny welding (tiny welding is cool af)
but to get the results you did with the alumiweld, youd have be a pretty good tig welder.
After puting the work in the alumiweld turned out just fine.:3
Tiny roots supercharger and custom intake manifold for twin carbs!
you could bend the tube with sealed water inside, hydroforming.
Never thought of that, now I would have to RUclips it
Freezing the water in the tubes works as well
Or sealed with sand inside, annealed then bent.
Over thinking the intake and flow.
Look at how full size engines do theirs.
I was actually thinking to move the runners, maybe a slight angle where it picks up fuel.
Should be interesting to see how this version runs though!
You talking like vertical runners like older carbed cars? Dont think he has the clearance under the body for that. One reason he doesn't wanna use the individuals. But that would be a good set up if he had the space
You my Friend always amaze me n give me inspiration for what we can do n make for RC Everything. 👌😎
God Bless n Godspeed to you buddy. Stay safe n yr loved one's
RC4LIFE 👍👍😎😀💙
meinen Respekt für die Ideen und der Arbeit weiter so
cool single plane manifold.
next time i bet he'll do some crazy dual plane thing and itll be awesome.
I was wondering whether you considered carving an iso grid or an ortho grid in the chassis to save weight. My geeky nature would push me to try it
Excellent once more. Great fabrication.
I was waiting this one befor a long time !
It would probably be beneficial to use a very small dremel tip to "port" the interior edges of the manifold/plenem. Reducing the sharp corners that the air has to flow around helps improve performance quite a bit.
i feel like in this case porting would be a pretty big effort for very little gain. assuming the ports on the manifold are slightly smaller than on the heads you'd get a bit more air in but I doubt in its current state it'd be worth it.
@@Wulthrin I mostly meant smoothing out the right angles on the inside of the plenum.
I like the ingenuity, but I have a feeling making the air fuel mixture take a 90 degree turn right after its atomized may cause the fuel to fall out of the air, on top of the tight turn killing air velocity. Might I suggest a dual carb setup with the carbs on the side of the intake manifold, with a nice slight curve going to the intake runners?
no next level good job as usual ✌🏿🦅
Great job dude !
One wonder if there's a possibility to port those two valve heads?? I mean everyone want to use a better manifold and carb... but at the end of the day that doesn't mean nothing with out opening the intake ports.... Hey then you'll get cut on the catch 22 and have to open the exhaust side as well.....