This was EXACTLY what I was looking for. So clear and concise. Then you added the bonus about the Flicker issue (which I'd only discovered recently!) Thank you for all your great videos
Thanks so much for dropping the 180 degree shutter vocab, I've learned just from experience that the relationship between the frame rate and shutter speed had to be doubled or close to double, but I never knew the word for it, and I've tried explaining this to people but they all look at me like I am an alien! hahah, I just googled it and learned more thank you!!
Very helpful, educating, nicely presented. A lot of little things count. Needed this refresher for a major event. Thanks a lot Michael.
3 года назад+3
Very informative. Super helpful! 😄🙏 As soon as I saw the beginning of the video shot in the dark with good colour, I could tell straight away that you knew what you were talking about! Ps. Thank you for sharing your display info settings.
Good video, very well explained, easy to understand, I wonder how difficult it can be for a beginner to use this camera I always hear that ... I congratulate you and thank you for your good videos
I wish i watched this before I took my first ever video footage. darn it hahaha. Amazing tutorial, will be referring back to this next time for sure. (Y)
A little different but same principles will apply yes. Shoot in Full HD 25 fps with 50 shutter for highest quality. You can also shoot in SD 720p 50 fps with 100 shutter and upscale it to 1080 and slow it down in post if you want that slow motion feeling.
Amal I recommend standard for quick turnaround productions but I turn saturation and contrast down in the profile settings customisation. For any work where I want to improve the dynamic range I use neutral with everything turned all the way down in the custom profile settings.
Yeah in the disk you normally shoot in. I only ever shoot manual and occasionally Av so would be interested to know what settings hold across the different modes.
I just want to share, I used some of these techniques in a new job I just started and it helped me achieve really good results on my first project I was assigned. So thanks again for uploading this, I'll try to check out more of your content
Does this camera do a fantastic job at 16:9 1080p 30fps saved as mp4? That's the only mode I will be using. Set it and forget it. Any morieing or aliasing?
Hello thank you for the awesome video learned so much! Is it possible to shoot longer than 30mn, though? I didn't see you touch on that- I have to shoot a 1h interview but I can't seem to find the way to do it. Thank you!!
@@ValleyProductions_LLC Nah, it’s a digital file 👌🏻 Check your settings in the Ninja V as well and you can add the LUT onto the Ninja for monitoring and toggle on and off.
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I GOT EVERYTHING I NEEDED! Amazing delivery and timing on it! I've been dying to use the slow mo and now I feel hella confident to try it out with these settings, you gave me more value than I hoped for!
Hi Micheal, I'm just learning how to use the video aspect of my camera so this is such a helpful video. Thank you. I'm wondering if Canon 5DM4 has the ability to save custom settings of 23FPS and 59FPS if I want to skip to the other really quickly when I'm filming?
C MACK I shoot 120 fps and 250 shutter speed (180 degree shutter). I only shoot it in good lighting to avoid aliasing and noise, then I upscale it to 1080p and it looks decent. ruclips.net/video/EpB5R0TMmiw/видео.html
Depends, are you shooting people? If you are, it’ll be the same settings as in my video and expose to get skin tones about half way on your histogram. You can use an 18% grey card to check by having the subject hold the card up for you in front of their face.
On my 5D IV, it only gives me the option to shoot in 25p, 50p or 100p. For some reason I do not have the option of changing to 30p (or 29.98p) or 120p? I have made sure to disable the 24p setting too.
So I"m watching your video, as I now am dedicating my Mark IV to shoot videos only. I am using firmware 1.4.0 The video you present, doesn't show the same settings I have, on the "red" camera button and screen four. I don't know where to find your settings. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for another great video . wonder if you can help me, I was shooting PAL 25 all-i and then did some shots in high frame rate... now the camera goes back automatically to 50 all-i instead to 25(only noticed that a bit later..) will it be a problem in the edit ? will be editing on fcpx 1920-1080.
idan malka Hey Idan thanks for your comment. The footage records at 120fps but confirms to 25 in camera so it will playback as slow motion once you drop it into your timeline. Hope that helps. So no, it won’t be a problem. Hope that helps, thanks for asking!
I'm a newbie to video, could you tell me what video settings I should use to get the best balance between high quality video and not gigantic file size? If I want to shoot documentary footage for a short movie, for example? Help would be appreciated, thanks!
HI there, maybe try the 25 fps IPB in 1920 x 1080p. To avoid big file sizes just don't shoot with the 4K (if you are using the 5D4). Shooting in anything less than 1920 x 1080 p will effect video quality but test using the IPB and ALL-I and see if the quality loss to go to IPB is acceptable to you. Thanks for your comments mate.
Great video man! Enjoying your work! I own the mark iv with log and glad to see others enjoying it too! Would love to see a video of your export settings on premiere pro, your images seem super crisp on RUclips (pendula showreel for example) which can be a pain sometimes. Keep it up man
Danne Frank Thanks Dan. Appreciate your comments so much man! That’s a great idea for a video - will pencil it down for a quick tip to throw out there soon. Basics are QuickTime H.264 with pretty high bitrate settings on a dual pass export.
@mikem6796 Hi Mike, thanks for your comment. I still don’t think you can on the Canon 5D4. At least you couldn’t with the firmware as per the time of this video.
@@MichaelDrowleyThanks. Do u think full hd is good enough for a video for a website or social media using 5dm4? I was hoping to get around the 4k editing. What camera u using now?
Do you have any issues with light flicker when shooting in 60fps NTSC. I prefer it but i found as soon as i shoot inside i get problems and have to switch down to 50fps
Yeah I do, I try and get rid of it firstly by changing shutter from down to less than half the frame rate so 100 or 80, before I have to drop to 50p. This is due to the lighting circuits in Australia running at 60 Hz. The worst issue I have faced was where there was mixed lighting in a venue where flicker was present in 60p and 50p. Haha, shutter helped a bit but I had to deflicker a bit of the footage in post for that one.
I need advice please, I use Canon5D mark iii for weddings I would like to upgrade to either 5D mark iv or Panasonic gh5s. Kindly please what do you recommend?
Thanks for this video, Michael - I've been looking around to have a few questions answered, and your video is the first one that covered most of them...thanks! I am new to super slow motion video and am onto it because of something I want to try to capture (so I'm working backwards from an idea essentially) and I wonder if I could ask you: I will be doing some water drop photography and I want to make a video of the same, really slowing down the video in post so the drops can be seen bouncing and splashing everywhere. If I record this at super slow motion by enabling the high frame rate on my 5DM4 to shoot at 120fps, will I then be able to take it into Premiere for example and slow it down even further and still have good quality? I looked at using a plugin like Twixtor but it's almost prohibitively expensive for someone just looking to start with a project or two. Any info you can offer would be appreciated!
Hey Sam, thanks for watching and reaching out. you can try 120 and then in premiere, right click the clip and choose modify -> interpret footage -> confirm to 25p. Then drop that into a 25 p timeline and it will slow it down a bunch. Then as it will only capture in SD 1280 x 720p you will need to scale it up to a FHD 1920x1080p timeline. Quality won’t be too bad but depends on your delivery quality. Make sure you bail focus when getting the shots of the water.
@@MichaelDrowley Thanks so much for getting back to me! Your advice is super helpful; I understood everything right up to "bail focus" lol, but I feel much more confident going in. I am going to give it a go this weekend...wish me luck! Thanks again!
@@MichaelDrowley Omg...sorry! Duh, I should have guessed. Yes, thanks...fingers crossed! I've done water drops before - though without a valve which I now have, and I'd like to do it a bit more carefully as the focus certainly needs to be bang on and it could have been better last time. I really hope the video works!
Hi, I'm new to video and just bought Canon 5D mark IV and I live in Sydney. So if we don't use the video for television, and mainly for the client, youtube, facebook or any other internet platform, I don't have to shoot in PAL? I love slow-motion, but PAL 50fps to Pal 25fps maybe not slow enough for me. Thanks for the tutorial.
Alexandros Margo That’s right man. Just watch out for flicker shoring NTSC if your region is PAL. I know my lighting at home flickers when I shoot NTSC 30fps. In those cases a shutter speed of 100 (not 60) eliminates the flicker.
Thank you for your explanations. do you know what happend when we shoot timelapse with C5D4? do those shots count on the shutter if I read it out or is it just digital? thank you in advance
Erich Sinzinger hey Erich, I’m pretty sure the time lapse feature is a 4K video instead of individual photos. I like to shoot images though as I care from 5d2 and 3 so used to exposure ramping options when shooting in Av mode with still images!
Hi Michael. I currently use PAL at 50p and do slow motion at half speed. I was thinking of doing it at 60p and then slowing to 24 frames. Is there any visible banding with artificial lights this way if your keeping a 1/100 shutter speed? Thanks!
Iacovos Hi Iacovos! You do have to be more careful shooting 60 FPS if you are in a country with 50 hertz lighting. The banding comes from each frame being slightly out of time with the lighting and therefore the camera pics up differences between lighting level between each frame which looks like flicker. It is more of a challenge to shoot in 60 and avoid it. One way I have found is shoot at different shutters. A slower shutter for example will open long enough to even out the exposure frame to frame. Sometimes I shoot in 60p with 1/60 which has worked before. The lighting that you have to watch is fluorescent lighting. That really has some bad flicker going on. I have had to deflicker later a couple of times where I couldn’t see it while recording but it was there when editing the footage. There are programs that can achieve this! Hope that helps!
Hey thanks for your comment! 24-70 f2.8 is in my opinion a perfect all rounder if you just had one lens! It’s sharp and good for low light with the constant 2.8 aperture. I have a few primes, the 24mm f1.4 L, the 50mm f1.8 and my next lens will likely be the 85mm f1.2 L. I also have a 17-40 f4.0 which is great for well lit scenes but it doesn’t have the shallowest depth of field to give you that compressed background look that the 2.8 or a 1.4-1.8 prime can offer when used wide open. Hope that helps you! Appreciate your comment
Brilliant i have the 24070 2.8 II i wasnt sure if primes could be used but i have the 85 1.2 so i'll give it a shot, im a drone videographer but just ordered the ronin-S so its time i got to see what my canon body is capable of......and work out all the video settings i found your video very helpful and well explained compared to some ive watched .....thanks man
I bought the first 5D Mark II when it came out. Pre-firmware upgrade, only one guy was shooting glam movie stuff on youtube, then a tv show shot an episode with it, people learned to stay off sharpening, etc. But I bought top lenses for it, even the converted Zeiss 17-35 Contax N lens. I still remember going out to the country to film hills, grasses, trees, etc., to check out the detail. I was very disappointed. A full size sensor, and grasses looked smeary. Nowhere near the detail of Plus X, etc. I had to wonder where the problem was. It had to be the sensor. No matter what came later to improve the sensor, it was no match for film. What full frame camera do you know of that competes with film for detail in nature, esoecially those grasses?
Tomek1Oko Hi, I usually shoot in cLOG which is like using the EOSHD picture profile. This has a cLOG view assist LUT that you can turn on and off in camera which is awesome. When I shoot in a normal picture style I use Cinestyle from Technicolor or “Neutral flat”; NEUTRAL Sharpness: 0 Contrast: -4 Saturation: -2 Color Tone: 0 Very rarely I will shoot STANDARD for quick turnaround piece to camera work.
Michael Drowley thank you for quick response. I’m about to order 5d iv so doing my research now :) to be honest I almost pull the trigger on 6d ii but due to terrible reviews I gave up on this camera ...
Michael Drowley I had 80d but already sold it yesterday :) I always dream to move to full frame one day :) this day is coming soon ... I want camera mainly for stills and 6d has terrible dynamic range from what I found online
Hi Michael! So I have the 5D markIV and I would like to use the auto focus but there is a grinding sound when it is trying to focus. Is there a way to fix that? TY, Maggie :)
Maggie Collins Photography Hey Maggie, thanks for checking out the video. Unfortunately some lenses AF is louder than others. I use the 24mm f1.4 L II and that seems to have pretty quiet AF. Couple of questions; are you using the camera built in audio or an off camera mic?, and 2, what lens are you using?
Michael Drowley i’m using the built-in audio and I am using the sigma 35 art. It’s so weird it’s only when I move the camera and it changes focus it makes that grinding sound. Thank you so much for the response! I love your video!
Maggie Collins Photography I’d aim to move to a Rode videomic pro external microphone setup that won’t pickup the AF noise anywhere near as badly as the internal mics do! Hope that that helps! Michael
Hi Michael, thank you very much for this video! It's so helpful! I have only one question: what lens / focal length would you recommend using to film an event? Should I go for a 35mm prime lens? I'm a beginner on this so I'm not very sure...
Hi, great question. Depending on what you are shooting you might need a longer lens say 50mm or more might be more worthwhile if you are further away. Are you shooting on the 5DIV? I would get a cheap nifty 50mm f1.8 that you can shoot both full frame and then switch to crop mode so you can have equivalent 70mm reach. Then get a 16-35 or 17-40 mm lens for wides and establishes. If you need to shoot a keynote a 70-200 is very nice to have but if you get close enough shooting in cropped mode you should be able to get a nice wide to medium shot on the 50mm with cropped mode. One lens for all if you have the money or can hire, get a 24-70 f 2,8. Hope that helps.
@@MichaelDrowley Thank you for taking the time to answer! Well it's more like a "Lounge concert" at a small space so I don't need all the zoom. I'm rather concerned about the gimbal which gets disbalanced as soon as I change the focal length and since I'm a newbie, it takes forever to re-balance the gimbal. And yes, I'm shooting with the 5DIV. That's why I landed on your video. I have the cheap 50mm f.1.8 but I have the impression, that the autofocus is suuuper slow (and loud!). I might just go for the 24-70 f2,8 which I have already and just record all the footage using one focal length. And you mention here in the answer the Crop Mode. Have you by chance done a tutorial where you explain this crop mode of the 5dmiv?
Michal Olender Hi Michal, is it something to do with broken lens image stabilisation control? Or maybe it’s to do with what lens and frame rate. Shooting handheld is difficult. You need to be on Wide lens and shoot in 50 or 60 FPS and conform to 25 for slow motion footage. That will smooth out the jerkyness.
@@MichaelDrowley I got that figured out, thanks man. It was basically me filming in 4k, zoomed in, and the computer wasn't the best at processing the image when viewing before creating proxies. Another thing that I'm struggling with, recording in FHD, it doesn't look good, the quality, I know it's not 4k but I see people's videos in FHD and it looks decent. Any idea why?
Why are wide open apertures always recommended for video shooting? f8 is pretty standard for stills, unless you're after low depth of field. But most video tutorials recommend 2.8 or wider. Surely with moving cameras and subjects a bit more depth of field would be preferable to very little DOF. Would love an explanation. Thanks.
Andrew Curtis Hey Andew, great question! I go for that for stylistic choice really, as I believe it gives a much more cinematic looking image but it truly depends on the types of things I’m shooting. For talking heads and piece to cameras with people on camera I rarely shoot closed down and max would be 2.8 I would use as my work has a distinct blurred background look to it. But for house features I shoot more closed down to get a good level of detail for wide shots but then on some tighter shots and close up detail of the home I open up the aperture again pretty wide to get low depth of field for focus pulls and to blur out detail in the foreground and background and that gives a nice illusion of more space in a home.
@@MichaelDrowley So for 'house features', or say, a kid on a skateboard, how closed down would you go... f8? Or is that just not the done thing in video? Thanks for your quick reply. Glad to see you're up late working like me!
Andrew Curtis Yeah, that would probably be pretty right for a skate shoot as when you are outside without ND’s on the lens to stop down the light you probably need to run a more closed down aperture (like f8-11). But for any creative shots go a bit more wide open switch to manual focus and see what you can do. You might like some of the shots you are able to capture! 👌🏻
@@MichaelDrowley Another quick one (sorry!). If you shoot a higher frame rate (59.94 or 50) is there a way of seeing that slomo effect in camera playback, or do you have to wait till you get it into editing software on the computer? I understand High Frame Rate lets you see it in camera, but I'm assuming that's the only way to see slomo instantly. The other frame rates you maybe just have to hope that it will look good when you play back on the computer?
Andrew Curtis hey mate, you can review it in slow motion in the playback settings and I just adjust the speed of the playback so it doesn’t drop frames. The way to bring up the slow motion is after you press play you either tap the screen or hit menu and it will bring up the rest of the controls and you select the second button (next to the play button) and then you can adjust the slow mo and I use I’m either the middle setting or the next one to the right which ends up being one back from the plus sign end.
Hello great video, could you explain to me why in “movie mode” auto iso work fine!!! BUT DOES NOT stay with in the range I set it to which is between 100-1600. Example once I set the range, and place a lens cap on the lens the iso spikes up to 256000, when it should cap out at 1600 or whatever range I set it too. This works perfectly in photo mode, the iso will not go above or below what I set the range to, but not in video mode it doesn’t matter if I’m in M/AV/TV/ or C123. Please help me if you can, this is frustrating I’m considering selling my 5D IV and switching back to Sony a7III which does auto iso with set range perfectly.
Michael Drowley hey thanks for responding but I have always turned off HTP, and my iso range for movie and 4K are both set to 100-1600, but for some reason my iso still goes above the range I set it to when in darker areas... I have been doing a lot of research and people are saying there’s no way to set iso range in auto iso during video, canon only allows it for photo mode only, but some you tubers told me that there camera stay with in range. But thanks for your help.
Que Malik There is another item in the manual that says it will not stay in the range you set during any settings for video, so I am not 100% sure and I always shot with manual ISO and adjusted on the fly for vlogging* as I needed (inside to outside for example). Could it be in a firmware update, which is why other youtubers maybe have noted that feature. Or could it be that those using what they believe to be this feature are not pushing the into a dark enough area to push the ISO beyond their highest setting, therefore they think that it is limiting it with the range settings. I think if it doesn’t set the range properly it is a fault with the firmware so perhaps contact Canon for repair /replacement or go into a store and test on another 5DIV
Michael Drowley thanks for the info and I am going to contact canon about it. I’m in the 1.1.2 firmware which is the latest I believe but there was a update for C log which I don’t have, I believe I would have to send the camera in to be serviced. Perhaps that could be the reason why? But I will figure it out, thanks a lot and I appreciate you responding.
Michael Escobar I think I shot the talking on Cinestyle to match the rear of camera shot which I captured on the 5D3 of me operating the 5D4. Normally I use Canon C Log on the 5D4 as I seem to be able to get the colours to look nicer in post. Still experimenting with looks for my stuff! Thanks for checking out my stuff!
Hayk Galstyan Hey Hayk, I’d consider the 24-70 f2.8 L and the 70-200 f2.8 L for a killer events combo. If you want to just go with one lens, the 24-70 f2.8 is the way to go.
@@MichaelDrowley Thanks Michael, but are these not loud with their auto focus? I have 24-105 f4 L, but when I film a video with autofocus I can hear the noise of motors all the time.
Nice vid, man! I wonder whats the difference between recoring in MOV vs. MP4, in means of File size /compression/ smoothness of editing with it. On a hunch- MOV sounds like the better option..but who knows.. P.S- Same goes for All-I. File sizes are bigger in this mode, but i dont think you get much more quality/ latitude...
Thanks for your comments mate! From what I understand, the IPB compression doesn't compress all frames but takes a complete frame every half a second or there-about and the rest of the time it's looking for just movement in the frame. The B in IPB stands for Bidirectional compression because this compression system looks at the previous key frame AND the following key frame to extrapolate the missing data. The ALL I compresses down every frame in it's entirety. Or that's as far as I am aware. In terms of MOV vs MP4 I use MOV as that was Apple's go to and MP4 came out of that codec. They are effectively the same information in different wrapping paper. If you aren't on Mac then MP4 might be the go - but Mov will also work fine on windows I think.
Missed a real important point, especially if you get a 5D Mark IV with CLOG, you need the histogram pulled up by default before you hit record as the metering system is most often not correct with video. It's not even close with CLOG but it can get closer with regular profiles.
nagol5178 You’re absolutely right; totally forgot to mention using the histogram for exposure and esp. cLOG but my approach here can be applied back to 5d2/3 as well. Though with 5d3 I use Magic Lantern so I have better idea of exposure with zebras. My future option is to run a small hd.
I like the Histogram more than any other tool but when I use Sony cameras I use zebras but only on like 95%. The CLOG 4k image from the 5D Mark IV is flat out amazing. It looks better than higher spec'd cameras I've owned. Do you have the CLOG version? It's definitely worth the upgrade. Just the other week I finally got a 16-35 F/4 ISL so I could get a little wider with the 4k. I had a 17-50 I was using before but it is an APS-C lens so if I went to 1080p or photos I had to switch lenses.
nagol5178 Yeah, I have the cLOG version or I sent the camera in for upgrade as soon as I got it. I use a 16/35 f4 and a 24 f1.4 mostly for 4K which is wide enough for most things. And you’re absolutely right. The 4K in general is awesome on this thing, but especially in 4K if you nail the exposure. I did another video on why I love the 5D4. Thinking of 1DX2 as a second camera but hard to pass on a second 5D4 to be totally honest. I love the camera and the image it delivers. ruclips.net/video/fbesuxo_viE/видео.html
I'm not a big fan of the 1D series but that's because I don't shoot fast burst of anything. Not a wild life or sports photographer. Mostly Landscape. That's really the only advantage 1 series has these days. It has 4k at 60FPS though but no CLOG. I prefer more Megapixels and CLOG. Even if I shot wild life I wouldn't go with the 1 series because I'd want to crop and have more resolution. In fact I think the 5DSR or D850 are the ultimate wild life cameras, able to crop in a whole lot. To me that's more valuable than 14 FPS burst for photos. I'd wait for the 5DSR Mark ii and get it as a second camera, because it'll be a 50 Megapixel or more 5D Mark IV.
nagol5178 Great comment about the 5DSR! Thanks for your thoughts on this mate. I have the same issue with 1DX 2 not having LOG but the 120p slow mo in full HD is nice ( but I don’t often shot that slowed down). Anyway, I shot photos on a boat last week with 5D4, usually just shoot video with it, but it performed so well and the image resolution and RAW dynamic range is incredible. I was doing some bracketed exposure shots I could HDR merge later but ended up barely needing to and just worked off the centre exposed image. Amazing
I currently have a Canon 80d with 17-55 f2.8 Canon lens. Just love the video quality. How much difference in 1080HD video would I experience if I go to a Canon 5D Mark 4 with Canon 16-35 III f2.8 lens? Thanks for a response.....Roger
Hi Roger, thanks for checking out my video. Love the 80D, I have used one once and it was a great camera! In terms of video I think the biggest difference would be in the full frame versus cropped sensor. There would be slightly more depth of field available on a 2.8 aperture on the 5D versus the 80D. In terms of bitrate of the HD codec, the 80D and 5D4 are the same bitrate of 90Mbps so the codec on the 80D is super solid. Also has 60fps, but only in an IPB compression which is more compressed compared to the beautiful ALL-I 60p of the 5D4 which has the edge by quite a bit over the 80D. My recommendation would be to check out the EOS R now that I have switched to that from my 5D4. It has a few added things like electronic viewfinder for video and has a flip screen just like your 80D does.
Thanks Michael.......I will check out the EOS R. I'm into Landscape photography.....would the 16-35 III f2.8 lens be the proper direction to go? Thanks again for your time, Roger
@@rogercotman1314 Hi Roger. On the full frame the 16-35 would be a great focal length, yep. It would be like an 10-18 STM on your 80D. With landscape you might not need the 2.8 max aperture. I have a 17-35 f4.0 which is great, as mostly I am shooting landscapes (or back when I was every weekend) at f8 and above. Though I believe you will find the new 16-35 to be sharper at the edges as is most high end new canon glass. Good luck with the new purchase and either the 5D4 or EOSR are going to be great options for your landscape photography for sure! Correction: 17-40 f4.0 - there's no such thing as a 17-35 f4.0.
Thanks again, Michael. The f2.8 helps with my low light video situations. I'm just a beginner .....feel free to check out my FB page ....AndrewLane of Las Vegas. Best wishes Roger.
Hi Michael. I have relooked through all video settings and the camera still shuts off every 29 minutes and 59 seconds. I want to be able to stream video from it continuously but have not found any answers and was hoping if not too much trouble if you could help me out :)
Page 388 of manual - select monitor only icon or monitor only icon (without info) and set [spanner 2 menu] auto power off to disable. The camera screen will still turn off after 30 minutes but the hdmi feed will stay on. I think if you also trying to record with the camera at the same time this won’t work as when the record limit is reached the hdmi feed might also stop but it’s been a while so check both options of 1. While recording with the camera to a card and 2. While in live view but not recording.
@@MichaelDrowley I thought I tried this but maybe I have played with these things so much I am confusing what I have tried with what I have not tried. Thanks again!!!! VERY MUCH! They need to change the policy on dslr's to allow for continuous recording.
I dont like drop frame, 0,97 0,98... I preffer 25p from a 60p footage... And if I notice some frame slowdown I activate the optical flow and get rid of it... This is just me... And well... I live in a PAL country. :D
Thanks for quick reply Michael. I have another question. I hope you don't mind :) I just started using Canon for video and I am struggling with that sound that comes form my lenses when they are on autofocus. It is ok when I film somewhere where I can set up boom mic and record sound on external recorded, but what about vlogging? I have just noticed that Peter McKinnon is vlogging with his on-camera microphone and it focuses silently. For example this video - ruclips.net/video/SfbCLVZLXjI/видео.html time - 2:18 Could you be so kind to advise on that. I got 5d mk4 with 24-70mm f/2.8L II and 16-35mm f/2.8L III - both make same horrible sounds :) and in this, current video you haven't got any sound coming form your lens(or you are using external recorder?).
Leon Birger I vlog and recorded this on a 24mm f1.4 II L lens which is super quiet when Auto focusing. I believe Peter often uses the same lens to vlog with. I also use the rode Videomic pro which gets the mic away from the lens somewhat and has a rycote mount that means the AF sound will not be heard through the camera body as it is when using the in build Canera mic audio. Hope that helps mate, thanks so much for your comments!
Hey Man! really appreciate the insight! Have you ever thought of setting up these modes as Custom functions ie. C1, C2, C3 on the dial? I ended up doing that for my camera and makes swapping a breeze!
Hello again, would it be possible that you show how to do the post production in Premiere pro? Create a style, tweak the colors and save as a lut/whatever? I've seen a lot of videos about it but struggle with the color tweaking.. I film with a Canon 5D Mark IV with CineStyle Picture Style - would be really cool if this part would also be interesting for you to make :) Best regards from Austria! (Cows & hills, not Kangaroos ;) )
TomStarsWalkOfFame Hi I just released a video on this very thing using Canon log on the 5D Mark 4. This is a bit different to Cinestyle but it will give you an idea of my process using premiere pro lumetri colour. ruclips.net/video/NFDK9TEac7U/видео.html
Hey Ben thanks for asking mate! I think you can set the camera to Tv mode and lock down your shutter to twice the frame rate - so 50 shutter for 25 fps shooting. This will effectively lock out the ISO so you can't set it, which will then allow the ISO to auto adjust to ensure you are getting the right amount of light into the camera. I don't like using auto anything though for video as you often get these exposure jumps in the footage and the higher you push the ISO, the more grain is introduced to the footage, which is why I try and keep it under 800. Hope that helps mate
I am a dog trainer and I like to film dogs running and chasing things. What would be the best settings for shooting in the day with dogs chasing a rabbit switching directions back and forth (I do not actually have the dogs chase rabits. I only want you to know how the dogs will be behaving)
Hey Jeff, that's cool as, I have 2 huskies I often film running down at the beach. I like to shoot in 60fps so that I can slow it down later. Also high frame rate mode (120 fps) upscaled to 1080p later in post might give you some good results for super slow motion. For 60fps have your shutter speed at 120 and then adjust your aperture to capture a lot of depth of field and set the autofocus to tracking mode but not face detection, not sure exactly what setting but almost like a continuous object tracking setting that you might use for filming sports action. Keep your ISO below about 400 and you should get clean footage. Hope that helps mate!
ruclips.net/video/ds7d3iG8tf8/видео.htmlsi=88zVluAyk54waqjG check out this video. I also sell a clog LUT that I developing for the 5D4 which removes some of the RED cast and ads a bit more saturation. And I sell a pack of clog luts I developed on the EOS R if you’re interested. Check out my website for more info MichaelDrowley.com
@@MichaelDrowley i can't find the movie record quality button, and i can't make it record when i hit live mode. you guys need to show us in detail which buttons to push and slow down a bit, not all 5d's have the same settings from what i see. thank you.
Interesting. I use NTSC for the same reasons, although I'm in Australia. Only thing you have to be careful with is filming inside, as you can get a 'flicker' if you're using lights. So, if I don't need 59.94fps, I swap over to PAL. Have you noticed any flicker in the footage with NTSC?
FloNo Trail Yeah, I cover that in my last point actually. 15. Caveats - check it out and let me know your thoughts on it? The 60p just looks so buttery
Michael Drowley - haha yes, I didn't make it right to the end as your settings seem to be pretty much the same as mine. I did find it interesting however what you suggested about just changing the shutter speed (rather than video format) . I'll have to try that and see. I do like the 59.94fps - . I've noticed quite a lot of people moving back to the Canon 5D4 in the last little while. I also like the 4k - I use an l-series 11-24 f4 to retain the wider angle - other wise the 24-70 f2.8
Hi, thanks for your comment! The best for the 5DIV is .mov as it includes the option for ALL-I shooting which uses less compression than IPB. IPB is available in both .mov and .mp4 but ALL-I is only available in .mov Hope that makes sense?
After setting my FPS to 120 and doubling my shutter speed. If I leave my ISO in auto it gives me a grainy footage, however if I put it in manual mode say 400. My image gets extremely dark. Any help with this anyone?
You’ll need to, 1. shoot with more light, 2. Shoot with wider Aputure. 3. try 800 ISO or up to 1200 ISO and reduce any noise in post. 4. Drop shutter down to 150 or 180. When you crank up the shutter to compensate for the high frame rate you do loose light hitting the sensor though so dealing with noise in darker environments/scenes is something that will occur.
@@taphaelreid That’a great, I use “generate optimised media” and set your timeline resolution to 1920 x 1080 even if you have 4K footage as that will play smoother. Yeah, I use a gimbal, the older Ronin S and a glide cam HD4000 for longer more flowing shots. The electronic gimbals can have the walking bob up and down so I generally don’t do long flowing shots with them and if I do I still walk really carefully to make sure I get a smooth shot without that bobbing up and down that you see in a lot of home walkthrough videos.
@@MichaelDrowley Thankyou so much. I'm in the process of purchasing a A6600 and have seriously been binge watching your videos. Very informative and always a positive vibe. Thank you for your weath of knowledge.
Maggie Collins Photography Hi Maggie, You can't use a 1/48 shutter at 60p because you're shooting at 59.976 frames per second (1/60 of a second for each frame), so the maximum amount of time that the shutter can be open is 1/60. If you are shooting 59.976fps I would use the 180 degree shutter angle rule which is to have the shutter set to double the frame rate or as close to it as possible. For 60p this would be 1/125. Hope that helps Maggie!!!
Hi Michael, this video was really helpful! Thank you for sharing. I was wondering if you could answer a question I had. I am using the 5DIv also and am just getting into film making as a photographer and have been experimenting with filming slow motion at 120 fps, however when filming I am finding that my focus locks on the first thing I focus on and will not change as I move the camera around, I was wondering if you knew why this would be happening? Thanks! Sarah
Sarah Gilchrist Thanks Sarah!!! I think what you’re probably finding is that the AF shuts down completely when you film in 120fps unfortunately. With the 5D4, I’d switch it up to 60fps if you did need to retain autofocus while shooting slow motion. Otherwise you’ll have to get good at manual focusing which is tricky if you are using a gimbal. The way I do it is I keep a similar focal distance from the subject and shoot a bit wider aperture so it’s not as noticeable as you move in and out of focus from your fixed focus point.
@@MichaelDrowley Hi Michael, thank you so much for your reply! I was going crazy trying to figure out what was going on. This really helps. I appreciate it! I'll give those tips a try :)
oh its this old camera i better save money for mark V mayby it will have 10 or 12bit compression or what ever 4k MJPEG! it sound like more worse than IPB
This was EXACTLY what I was looking for. So clear and concise. Then you added the bonus about the Flicker issue (which I'd only discovered recently!) Thank you for all your great videos
Thanks so much for dropping the 180 degree shutter vocab, I've learned just from experience that the relationship between the frame rate and shutter speed had to be doubled or close to double, but I never knew the word for it, and I've tried explaining this to people but they all look at me like I am an alien! hahah, I just googled it and learned more thank you!!
Thanks a lot for the video. After using my 5d mk4 around 2 years i found out that i have 120fps lol:) thanks
Very helpful, educating, nicely presented. A lot of little things count. Needed this refresher for a major event. Thanks a lot Michael.
Very informative. Super helpful! 😄🙏
As soon as I saw the beginning of the video shot in the dark with good colour, I could tell straight away that you knew what you were talking about! Ps. Thank you for sharing your display info settings.
excellent video. this is just for me ..
Thank you so very much this was so clear and easy to follow.
very very helpful video, many thanks. please make a video on the auto focus
Sagnika Dance School Thanks so much! I’ll jot down your request and add it into a future video for you! Thanks again
Good video, very well explained, easy to understand, I wonder how difficult it can be for a beginner to use this camera I always hear that ... I congratulate you and thank you for your good videos
Edgar Gomez Thanks Edgar! There will be a bit of learning and setup time for beginners
Thanks Michael :) Very helpful and your explanation was very clear and easy to understand.
Glad it was helpful!
great video, super easy to follow
Awesome video with detail and explanation.
very useful, cheers
some great tips here, thanks dude
Happy to help!
Thank you so much!! such good information for free!
I wish i watched this before I took my first ever video footage. darn it hahaha. Amazing tutorial, will be referring back to this next time for sure. (Y)
Thanks Danielle!
Thank you
Thank you so much
Thank you very much Michael Drowley!! All your videos are very useful!! :)
Thanks so much Marcos
So useful info. Can you please tell me why I am unable to transfer my 5d Mark iv videos into my iPhone ? Do I need to switch setting from MOV to MP4?
I'm not sure why you can't transfer them. Did you end up figuring this out?
great, I actually thought we had to film in pal in the UK but its dated info now with digital etc
Really useful video.
Glad to hear that
could this setting be used for 5D MARK III? , i have a wedding shoot this sunday & want to get them the best video
A little different but same principles will apply yes. Shoot in Full HD 25 fps with 50 shutter for highest quality. You can also shoot in SD 720p 50 fps with 100 shutter and upscale it to 1080 and slow it down in post if you want that slow motion feeling.
@@MichaelDrowley is this for any setting like manual, av?
thanks bro very useful information.
Does 5D mark iv stream at 4K with HDMI in OBS? I need 4K livestream and I don't know if this camera does that. Thanks!
No, the 5D IV only provides maximum HDMI output in 1920 x 1080 4.2.2 8 bit.
Superb sir very good video
Can you dual record video on both card slots (redundantly) on the Canon 5D Mark 3 or Mark 4? Thank you!
thanks for the advice !!! very helpful !
Christian Mamoun Thanks so much Christian, I appreciate your comments!
what is the best picture style setting for video?
Amal I recommend standard for quick turnaround productions but I turn saturation and contrast down in the profile settings customisation. For any work where I want to improve the dynamic range I use neutral with everything turned all the way down in the custom profile settings.
Michael Drowley Canon portrait color picture style good?
Michael Drowley I need ture color
Thanks so much!!
Hey Michael, when we make changes to our cameras do we leave it in the dial we shoot in (M, AV,
TV, Bulb, etc) or dial it to P?
Yeah in the disk you normally shoot in. I only ever shoot manual and occasionally Av so would be interested to know what settings hold across the different modes.
This was so helpful man, thanks!
Thanks so much Acero Film for checking it out!
I just want to share, I used some of these techniques in a new job I just started and it helped me achieve really good results on my first project I was assigned. So thanks again for uploading this, I'll try to check out more of your content
Acero Film that’s awesome news man!
God bless you brother.
Thank you
Does this camera do a fantastic job at 16:9 1080p 30fps saved as mp4? That's the only mode I will be using. Set it and forget it.
Any morieing or aliasing?
Hello thank you for the awesome video learned so much! Is it possible to shoot longer than 30mn, though? I didn't see you touch on that- I have to shoot a 1h interview but I can't seem to find the way to do it. Thank you!!
Yes, you can but you need an external recorder like an atomos Ninja V.
The only other way I have done it is monitor the camera and when the recording stops you quickly hit record! 😅
@@MichaelDrowley Haha, awesome thank you!! I'll get one!
Thanks a lot for ur work!
アルジェントサーシャ Thanks so much for checking out my videos! Appreciate your comment and glad you like what you see
Love this video bro !
legend, thanks!
Hi have u ever used Magiclantern to shoot Raw with great Dynamic range?
jason H. Zeger yeah Jason I have mate! Used it on both the 5D2 and then 5D3. It’s awesome
FLICKA! Cheers mate
I use Canon 5D Mark IV for interviews and short movies with Ninja V. I shoot 1080P in Raw CLOG...which Lut do you recommend I should get? Thank you.
@@ValleyProductions_LLC michaeldrowley.com/collections/michael-drowley-canon-log-luts/products/canon-log-cine-vlog-lut
@@MichaelDrowley I live in the U.S can I download it or you going to ship it. How much for shipping? Thanks
@@ValleyProductions_LLC Nah, it’s a digital file 👌🏻 Check your settings in the Ninja V as well and you can add the LUT onto the Ninja for monitoring and toggle on and off.
So you download it and then can use it straight away
@@MichaelDrowley I just got it. do you have a video how to install and use it?
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I GOT EVERYTHING I NEEDED! Amazing delivery and timing on it! I've been dying to use the slow mo and now I feel hella confident to try it out with these settings, you gave me more value than I hoped for!
Super helpful, thank you
Hi Micheal, I'm just learning how to use the video aspect of my camera so this is such a helpful video. Thank you. I'm wondering if Canon 5DM4 has the ability to save custom settings of 23FPS and 59FPS if I want to skip to the other really quickly when I'm filming?
Hi Catherine, yeah, you can use the custom settings C1, C2 amd C3. I did a video a while back on it - ruclips.net/video/5zDvCLmU_Ts/видео.html
@@MichaelDrowley brilliant. I'll take a look at the video. Much appreciated
what gimbal would u recommend for this camera?
Robin S has been my go to and I love it!
thank you Michael, this is very helpful! :)
Lena Marie Thanks Lena!
Nice camera
What do you shoot when you enable high frame rate
C MACK I shoot 120 fps and 250 shutter speed (180 degree shutter). I only shoot it in good lighting to avoid aliasing and noise, then I upscale it to 1080p and it looks decent. ruclips.net/video/EpB5R0TMmiw/видео.html
If I’m indoors and it’s dark (like a bar or club) and I have an external light what are the best settings ?
Depends, are you shooting people? If you are, it’ll be the same settings as in my video and expose to get skin tones about half way on your histogram. You can use an 18% grey card to check by having the subject hold the card up for you in front of their face.
On my 5D IV, it only gives me the option to shoot in 25p, 50p or 100p. For some reason I do not have the option of changing to 30p (or 29.98p) or 120p? I have made sure to disable the 24p setting too.
Just found a quick solution if anyone was having the same issues. Switch from PAL to NTSC in "Video System", which should be in settings.
Yep, switching out to NTSC will do it!
Helpful!!!!
Thanks man!
So I"m watching your video, as I now am dedicating my Mark IV to shoot videos only. I am using firmware 1.4.0 The video you present, doesn't show the same settings I have, on the "red" camera button and screen four. I don't know where to find your settings. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
You may need to flip the toggle switch on the camera from photo to video mode?
Thanks for another great video . wonder if you can help me, I was shooting PAL 25 all-i and then did some shots in high frame rate... now the camera goes back automatically to 50 all-i instead to 25(only noticed that a bit later..) will it be a problem in the edit ? will be editing on fcpx 1920-1080.
idan malka Hey Idan thanks for your comment. The footage records at 120fps but confirms to 25 in camera so it will playback as slow motion once you drop it into your timeline. Hope that helps. So no, it won’t be a problem. Hope that helps, thanks for asking!
I'm a newbie to video, could you tell me what video settings I should use to get the best balance between high quality video and not gigantic file size? If I want to shoot documentary footage for a short movie, for example? Help would be appreciated, thanks!
HI there, maybe try the 25 fps IPB in 1920 x 1080p. To avoid big file sizes just don't shoot with the 4K (if you are using the 5D4). Shooting in anything less than 1920 x 1080 p will effect video quality but test using the IPB and ALL-I and see if the quality loss to go to IPB is acceptable to you. Thanks for your comments mate.
Thanks so much for the quick reply, much appreciated! Very helpful videos :)
Great video man! Enjoying your work! I own the mark iv with log and glad to see others enjoying it too! Would love to see a video of your export settings on premiere pro, your images seem super crisp on RUclips (pendula showreel for example) which can be a pain sometimes. Keep it up man
Danne Frank Thanks Dan. Appreciate your comments so much man! That’s a great idea for a video - will pencil it down for a quick tip to throw out there soon. Basics are QuickTime H.264 with pretty high bitrate settings on a dual pass export.
Michael Drowley cheers dude, much appreciated! Looking forward to your future releases for sure
@MichaelDrowley Thanks for these great videos. Im curious if you can record video on 2 cards at the same time wtht he 5d mark 4
@mikem6796 Hi Mike, thanks for your comment. I still don’t think you can on the Canon 5D4. At least you couldn’t with the firmware as per the time of this video.
@@MichaelDrowleyThanks. Do u think full hd is good enough for a video for a website or social media using 5dm4? I was hoping to get around the 4k editing.
What camera u using now?
Do you have any issues with light flicker when shooting in 60fps NTSC. I prefer it but i found as soon as i shoot inside i get problems and have to switch down to 50fps
Yeah I do, I try and get rid of it firstly by changing shutter from down to less than half the frame rate so 100 or 80, before I have to drop to 50p. This is due to the lighting circuits in Australia running at 60 Hz. The worst issue I have faced was where there was mixed lighting in a venue where flicker was present in 60p and 50p. Haha, shutter helped a bit but I had to deflicker a bit of the footage in post for that one.
I need advice please, I use Canon5D mark iii for weddings I would like to upgrade to either 5D mark iv or Panasonic gh5s. Kindly please what do you recommend?
Hey sorry for the delayed reply. Did you upgrade yet? I would look at the Canon EOS R. GH5 is also really good.
Thanks for this video, Michael - I've been looking around to have a few questions answered, and your video is the first one that covered most of them...thanks! I am new to super slow motion video and am onto it because of something I want to try to capture (so I'm working backwards from an idea essentially) and I wonder if I could ask you: I will be doing some water drop photography and I want to make a video of the same, really slowing down the video in post so the drops can be seen bouncing and splashing everywhere. If I record this at super slow motion by enabling the high frame rate on my 5DM4 to shoot at 120fps, will I then be able to take it into Premiere for example and slow it down even further and still have good quality? I looked at using a plugin like Twixtor but it's almost prohibitively expensive for someone just looking to start with a project or two. Any info you can offer would be appreciated!
Hey Sam, thanks for watching and reaching out. you can try 120 and then in premiere, right click the clip and choose modify -> interpret footage -> confirm to 25p. Then drop that into a 25 p timeline and it will slow it down a bunch. Then as it will only capture in SD 1280 x 720p you will need to scale it up to a FHD 1920x1080p timeline. Quality won’t be too bad but depends on your delivery quality. Make sure you bail focus when getting the shots of the water.
@@MichaelDrowley Thanks so much for getting back to me! Your advice is super helpful; I understood everything right up to "bail focus" lol, but I feel much more confident going in. I am going to give it a go this weekend...wish me luck! Thanks again!
@@samideal494 nail*
@@MichaelDrowley Omg...sorry! Duh, I should have guessed. Yes, thanks...fingers crossed! I've done water drops before - though without a valve which I now have, and I'd like to do it a bit more carefully as the focus certainly needs to be bang on and it could have been better last time. I really hope the video works!
Thank youuu
Hi, I'm new to video and just bought Canon 5D mark IV and I live in Sydney.
So if we don't use the video for television, and mainly for the client, youtube, facebook or any other internet platform, I don't have to shoot in PAL?
I love slow-motion, but PAL 50fps to Pal 25fps maybe not slow enough for me.
Thanks for the tutorial.
Alexandros Margo That’s right man. Just watch out for flicker shoring NTSC if your region is PAL. I know my lighting at home flickers when I shoot NTSC 30fps. In those cases a shutter speed of 100 (not 60) eliminates the flicker.
Thank you for your explanations. do you know what happend when we shoot timelapse with C5D4? do those shots count on the shutter if I read it out or is it just digital? thank you in advance
Erich Sinzinger hey Erich, I’m pretty sure the time lapse feature is a 4K video instead of individual photos. I like to shoot images though as I care from 5d2 and 3 so used to exposure ramping options when shooting in Av mode with still images!
thank you
Hi Michael. I currently use PAL at 50p and do slow motion at half speed. I was thinking of doing it at 60p and then slowing to 24 frames. Is there any visible banding with artificial lights this way if your keeping a 1/100 shutter speed? Thanks!
Iacovos Hi Iacovos! You do have to be more careful shooting 60 FPS if you are in a country with 50 hertz lighting. The banding comes from each frame being slightly out of time with the lighting and therefore the camera pics up differences between lighting level between each frame which looks like flicker. It is more of a challenge to shoot in 60 and avoid it. One way I have found is shoot at different shutters. A slower shutter for example will open long enough to even out the exposure frame to frame. Sometimes I shoot in 60p with 1/60 which has worked before. The lighting that you have to watch is fluorescent lighting. That really has some bad flicker going on. I have had to deflicker later a couple of times where I couldn’t see it while recording but it was there when editing the footage. There are programs that can achieve this! Hope that helps!
@@MichaelDrowley helpful tips man thanks!
what range of lens is a good all round lens? 24-70? also do you ever use primes
Hey thanks for your comment! 24-70 f2.8 is in my opinion a perfect all rounder if you just had one lens! It’s sharp and good for low light with the constant 2.8 aperture. I have a few primes, the 24mm f1.4 L, the 50mm f1.8 and my next lens will likely be the 85mm f1.2 L. I also have a 17-40 f4.0 which is great for well lit scenes but it doesn’t have the shallowest depth of field to give you that compressed background look that the 2.8 or a 1.4-1.8 prime can offer when used wide open. Hope that helps you! Appreciate your comment
Brilliant i have the 24070 2.8 II i wasnt sure if primes could be used but i have the 85 1.2 so i'll give it a shot, im a drone videographer but just ordered the ronin-S so its time i got to see what my canon body is capable of......and work out all the video settings i found your video very helpful and well explained compared to some ive watched .....thanks man
Flawless Digital Photography & Video Sweet are you certified Drone op?
Just a hobbyist for now.....im a photographer for the main part but drone is a great way for relaxation from my usual workload
Can you save this as a custom setting
C MACK Yeah, absolutely man. ruclips.net/video/5zDvCLmU_Ts/видео.html
I bought the first 5D Mark II when it came out. Pre-firmware upgrade, only one guy was shooting glam movie stuff on youtube, then a tv show shot an episode with it, people learned to stay off sharpening, etc. But I bought top lenses for it, even the converted Zeiss 17-35 Contax N lens. I still remember going out to the country to film hills, grasses, trees, etc., to check out the detail. I was very disappointed. A full size sensor, and grasses looked smeary. Nowhere near the detail of Plus X, etc. I had to wonder where the problem was. It had to be the sensor. No matter what came later to improve the sensor, it was no match for film. What full frame camera do you know of that competes with film for detail in nature, esoecially those grasses?
C500 mark II
Hi. What are your picture style settings?
Tomek1Oko Hi, I usually shoot in cLOG which is like using the EOSHD picture profile. This has a cLOG view assist LUT that you can turn on and off in camera which is awesome. When I shoot in a normal picture style I use Cinestyle from Technicolor or “Neutral flat”;
NEUTRAL
Sharpness: 0
Contrast: -4
Saturation: -2
Color Tone: 0
Very rarely I will shoot STANDARD for quick turnaround piece to camera work.
Michael Drowley thank you for quick response. I’m about to order 5d iv so doing my research now :) to be honest I almost pull the trigger on 6d ii but due to terrible reviews I gave up on this camera ...
Tomek1Oko what camera are you using now? You will be happy with either camera I reckon but 5D4 has the edge for sure. Many vloggers love the 6d II
Michael Drowley I had 80d but already sold it yesterday :) I always dream to move to full frame one day :) this day is coming soon ... I want camera mainly for stills and 6d has terrible dynamic range from what I found online
Hi Michael! So I have the 5D markIV and I would like to use the auto focus but there is a grinding sound when it is trying to focus. Is there a way to fix that? TY, Maggie :)
Maggie Collins Photography Hey Maggie, thanks for checking out the video. Unfortunately some lenses AF is louder than others. I use the 24mm f1.4 L II and that seems to have pretty quiet AF. Couple of questions; are you using the camera built in audio or an off camera mic?, and 2, what lens are you using?
Michael Drowley i’m using the built-in audio and I am using the sigma 35 art. It’s so weird it’s only when I move the camera and it changes focus it makes that grinding sound. Thank you so much for the response! I love your video!
Maggie Collins Photography I’d aim to move to a Rode videomic pro external microphone setup that won’t pickup the AF noise anywhere near as badly as the internal mics do! Hope that that helps! Michael
Hi Michael, thank you very much for this video! It's so helpful! I have only one question: what lens / focal length would you recommend using to film an event? Should I go for a 35mm prime lens? I'm a beginner on this so I'm not very sure...
...and I forgot to mention that I'm going to use a Gimbal, so I can't use a zoom lens because then the Gimbal would get out of balance
Hi, great question. Depending on what you are shooting you might need a longer lens say 50mm or more might be more worthwhile if you are further away. Are you shooting on the 5DIV? I would get a cheap nifty 50mm f1.8 that you can shoot both full frame and then switch to crop mode so you can have equivalent 70mm reach. Then get a 16-35 or 17-40 mm lens for wides and establishes. If you need to shoot a keynote a 70-200 is very nice to have but if you get close enough shooting in cropped mode you should be able to get a nice wide to medium shot on the 50mm with cropped mode. One lens for all if you have the money or can hire, get a 24-70 f 2,8. Hope that helps.
@@MichaelDrowley Thank you for taking the time to answer! Well it's more like a "Lounge concert" at a small space so I don't need all the zoom. I'm rather concerned about the gimbal which gets disbalanced as soon as I change the focal length and since I'm a newbie, it takes forever to re-balance the gimbal. And yes, I'm shooting with the 5DIV. That's why I landed on your video. I have the cheap 50mm f.1.8 but I have the impression, that the autofocus is suuuper slow (and loud!). I might just go for the 24-70 f2,8 which I have already and just record all the footage using one focal length.
And you mention here in the answer the Crop Mode. Have you by chance done a tutorial where you explain this crop mode of the 5dmiv?
@@abdc1122 Crop in by switching to 4K shooting modes. Shoot wider stuff at 1080p.
@@abdc1122 I get my RF 24-70 to stabilise on my Ronin S. balance (and tune) with the lens at 40mm and it should cover the whole range.
thanks for the video Michael. I'm trying out filming with it hand held. The footage get jerky, wavey, more than just a normal shake, why can it be?
Michal Olender Hi Michal, is it something to do with broken lens image stabilisation control? Or maybe it’s to do with what lens and frame rate. Shooting handheld is difficult. You need to be on Wide lens and shoot in 50 or 60 FPS and conform to 25 for slow motion footage. That will smooth out the jerkyness.
@@MichaelDrowley I got that figured out, thanks man. It was basically me filming in 4k, zoomed in, and the computer wasn't the best at processing the image when viewing before creating proxies. Another thing that I'm struggling with, recording in FHD, it doesn't look good, the quality, I know it's not 4k but I see people's videos in FHD and it looks decent. Any idea why?
Why are wide open apertures always recommended for video shooting? f8 is pretty standard for stills, unless you're after low depth of field. But most video tutorials recommend 2.8 or wider. Surely with moving cameras and subjects a bit more depth of field would be preferable to very little DOF. Would love an explanation. Thanks.
Andrew Curtis Hey Andew, great question! I go for that for stylistic choice really, as I believe it gives a much more cinematic looking image but it truly depends on the types of things I’m shooting. For talking heads and piece to cameras with people on camera I rarely shoot closed down and max would be 2.8 I would use as my work has a distinct blurred background look to it. But for house features I shoot more closed down to get a good level of detail for wide shots but then on some tighter shots and close up detail of the home I open up the aperture again pretty wide to get low depth of field for focus pulls and to blur out detail in the foreground and background and that gives a nice illusion of more space in a home.
@@MichaelDrowley So for 'house features', or say, a kid on a skateboard, how closed down would you go... f8? Or is that just not the done thing in video? Thanks for your quick reply. Glad to see you're up late working like me!
Andrew Curtis Yeah, that would probably be pretty right for a skate shoot as when you are outside without ND’s on the lens to stop down the light you probably need to run a more closed down aperture (like f8-11). But for any creative shots go a bit more wide open switch to manual focus and see what you can do. You might like some of the shots you are able to capture! 👌🏻
@@MichaelDrowley Another quick one (sorry!). If you shoot a higher frame rate (59.94 or 50) is there a way of seeing that slomo effect in camera playback, or do you have to wait till you get it into editing software on the computer? I understand High Frame Rate lets you see it in camera, but I'm assuming that's the only way to see slomo instantly. The other frame rates you maybe just have to hope that it will look good when you play back on the computer?
Andrew Curtis hey mate, you can review it in slow motion in the playback settings and I just adjust the speed of the playback so it doesn’t drop frames. The way to bring up the slow motion is after you press play you either tap the screen or hit menu and it will bring up the rest of the controls and you select the second button (next to the play button) and then you can adjust the slow mo and I use I’m either the middle setting or the next one to the right which ends up being one back from the plus sign end.
Hello great video, could you explain to me why in “movie mode” auto iso work fine!!! BUT DOES NOT stay with in the range I set it to which is between 100-1600. Example once I set the range, and place a lens cap on the lens the iso spikes up to 256000, when it should cap out at 1600 or whatever range I set it too. This works perfectly in photo mode, the iso will not go above or below what I set the range to, but not in video mode it doesn’t matter if I’m in M/AV/TV/ or C123. Please help me if you can, this is frustrating I’m considering selling my 5D IV and switching back to Sony a7III which does auto iso with set range perfectly.
Que Malik Check that highlight tone priority is off and see if that helps. Also set ISO “Range for video” so that isn’t in the expanded range of H2.
Michael Drowley hey thanks for responding but I have always turned off HTP, and my iso range for movie and 4K are both set to 100-1600, but for some reason my iso still goes above the range I set it to when in darker areas... I have been doing a lot of research and people are saying there’s no way to set iso range in auto iso during video, canon only allows it for photo mode only, but some you tubers told me that there camera stay with in range. But thanks for your help.
Que Malik There is another item in the manual that says it will not stay in the range you set during any settings for video, so I am not 100% sure and I always shot with manual ISO and adjusted on the fly for vlogging* as I needed (inside to outside for example). Could it be in a firmware update, which is why other youtubers maybe have noted that feature. Or could it be that those using what they believe to be this feature are not pushing the into a dark enough area to push the ISO beyond their highest setting, therefore they think that it is limiting it with the range settings. I think if it doesn’t set the range properly it is a fault with the firmware so perhaps contact Canon for repair /replacement or go into a store and test on another 5DIV
Michael Drowley thanks for the info and I am going to contact canon about it. I’m in the 1.1.2 firmware which is the latest I believe but there was a update for C log which I don’t have, I believe I would have to send the camera in to be serviced. Perhaps that could be the reason why? But I will figure it out, thanks a lot and I appreciate you responding.
@@JerseyQ Good luck with getting to the bottom of it Que! Hope you can get it sorted mate
What do use for your picture profile?
Michael Escobar I think I shot the talking on Cinestyle to match the rear of camera shot which I captured on the 5D3 of me operating the 5D4. Normally I use Canon C Log on the 5D4 as I seem to be able to get the colours to look nicer in post. Still experimenting with looks for my stuff! Thanks for checking out my stuff!
Solid. Did you buy your mark iv with c log or upgrade later?
Michael Escobar Sent it off for the upgrade as soon as I got it! 👌🏻
What general lens do you recommend for event video shooting with silent auto focus for 5D mark4?
Hayk Galstyan Hey Hayk, I’d consider the 24-70 f2.8 L and the 70-200 f2.8 L for a killer events combo. If you want to just go with one lens, the 24-70 f2.8 is the way to go.
@@MichaelDrowley Thanks Michael, but are these not loud with their auto focus? I have 24-105 f4 L, but when I film a video with autofocus I can hear the noise of motors all the time.
Hayk Galstyan Are you using a rode videomic pro
@@MichaelDrowley Yes! But I just bought the Mark iV, to be honest I didn't tested yet with Rode mic pro, have to test it.
Nice vid, man!
I wonder whats the difference between recoring in MOV vs. MP4, in means of
File size /compression/ smoothness of editing with it.
On a hunch- MOV sounds like the better option..but who knows..
P.S- Same goes for All-I.
File sizes are bigger in this mode, but i dont think you get much more quality/ latitude...
Thanks for your comments mate! From what I understand, the IPB compression doesn't compress all frames but takes a complete frame every half a second or there-about and the rest of the time it's looking for just movement in the frame. The B in IPB stands for Bidirectional compression because this compression system looks at the previous key frame AND the following key frame to extrapolate the missing data. The ALL I compresses down every frame in it's entirety. Or that's as far as I am aware. In terms of MOV vs MP4 I use MOV as that was Apple's go to and MP4 came out of that codec. They are effectively the same information in different wrapping paper. If you aren't on Mac then MP4 might be the go - but Mov will also work fine on windows I think.
Missed a real important point, especially if you get a 5D Mark IV with CLOG, you need the histogram pulled up by default before you hit record as the metering system is most often not correct with video. It's not even close with CLOG but it can get closer with regular profiles.
nagol5178 You’re absolutely right; totally forgot to mention using the histogram for exposure and esp. cLOG but my approach here can be applied back to 5d2/3 as well. Though with 5d3 I use Magic Lantern so I have better idea of exposure with zebras. My future option is to run a small hd.
I like the Histogram more than any other tool but when I use Sony cameras I use zebras but only on like 95%. The CLOG 4k image from the 5D Mark IV is flat out amazing. It looks better than higher spec'd cameras I've owned. Do you have the CLOG version? It's definitely worth the upgrade. Just the other week I finally got a 16-35 F/4 ISL so I could get a little wider with the 4k. I had a 17-50 I was using before but it is an APS-C lens so if I went to 1080p or photos I had to switch lenses.
nagol5178 Yeah, I have the cLOG version or I sent the camera in for upgrade as soon as I got it. I use a 16/35 f4 and a 24 f1.4 mostly for 4K which is wide enough for most things. And you’re absolutely right. The 4K in general is awesome on this thing, but especially in 4K if you nail the exposure. I did another video on why I love the 5D4. Thinking of 1DX2 as a second camera but hard to pass on a second 5D4 to be totally honest. I love the camera and the image it delivers.
ruclips.net/video/fbesuxo_viE/видео.html
I'm not a big fan of the 1D series but that's because I don't shoot fast burst of anything. Not a wild life or sports photographer. Mostly Landscape. That's really the only advantage 1 series has these days. It has 4k at 60FPS though but no CLOG. I prefer more Megapixels and CLOG. Even if I shot wild life I wouldn't go with the 1 series because I'd want to crop and have more resolution. In fact I think the 5DSR or D850 are the ultimate wild life cameras, able to crop in a whole lot. To me that's more valuable than 14 FPS burst for photos.
I'd wait for the 5DSR Mark ii and get it as a second camera, because it'll be a 50 Megapixel or more 5D Mark IV.
nagol5178 Great comment about the 5DSR! Thanks for your thoughts on this mate. I have the same issue with 1DX 2 not having LOG but the 120p slow mo in full HD is nice ( but I don’t often shot that slowed down). Anyway, I shot photos on a boat last week with 5D4, usually just shoot video with it, but it performed so well and the image resolution and RAW dynamic range is incredible. I was doing some bracketed exposure shots I could HDR merge later but ended up barely needing to and just worked off the centre exposed image. Amazing
I currently have a Canon 80d with 17-55 f2.8 Canon lens. Just love the video quality. How much difference in 1080HD video would I experience if I go to a Canon 5D Mark 4 with Canon 16-35 III f2.8 lens? Thanks for a response.....Roger
Hi Roger, thanks for checking out my video. Love the 80D, I have used one once and it was a great camera! In terms of video I think the biggest difference would be in the full frame versus cropped sensor. There would be slightly more depth of field available on a 2.8 aperture on the 5D versus the 80D. In terms of bitrate of the HD codec, the 80D and 5D4 are the same bitrate of 90Mbps so the codec on the 80D is super solid. Also has 60fps, but only in an IPB compression which is more compressed compared to the beautiful ALL-I 60p of the 5D4 which has the edge by quite a bit over the 80D. My recommendation would be to check out the EOS R now that I have switched to that from my 5D4. It has a few added things like electronic viewfinder for video and has a flip screen just like your 80D does.
Thanks Michael.......I will check out the EOS R. I'm into Landscape photography.....would the 16-35 III f2.8 lens be the proper direction to go? Thanks again for your time, Roger
@@rogercotman1314 Hi Roger. On the full frame the 16-35 would be a great focal length, yep. It would be like an 10-18 STM on your 80D. With landscape you might not need the 2.8 max aperture. I have a 17-35 f4.0 which is great, as mostly I am shooting landscapes (or back when I was every weekend) at f8 and above. Though I believe you will find the new 16-35 to be sharper at the edges as is most high end new canon glass. Good luck with the new purchase and either the 5D4 or EOSR are going to be great options for your landscape photography for sure! Correction: 17-40 f4.0 - there's no such thing as a 17-35 f4.0.
Thanks again, Michael. The f2.8 helps with my low light video situations. I'm just a beginner .....feel free to check out my FB page ....AndrewLane of Las Vegas. Best wishes Roger.
Hi Michael. I have relooked through all video settings and the camera still shuts off every 29 minutes and 59 seconds. I want to be able to stream video from it continuously but have not found any answers and was hoping if not too much trouble if you could help me out :)
Page 388 of manual - select monitor only icon or monitor only icon (without info) and set [spanner 2 menu] auto power off to disable. The camera screen will still turn off after 30 minutes but the hdmi feed will stay on. I think if you also trying to record with the camera at the same time this won’t work as when the record limit is reached the hdmi feed might also stop but it’s been a while so check both options of 1. While recording with the camera to a card and 2. While in live view but not recording.
@@MichaelDrowley I thought I tried this but maybe I have played with these things so much I am confusing what I have tried with what I have not tried. Thanks again!!!! VERY MUCH! They need to change the policy on dslr's to allow for continuous recording.
@@TraceyMak1 Yeah, I agree. It’s pretty annoying that they keep this while Sony and Panasonic have moved away from this.
@@MichaelDrowley it worked thank you A MILLION TIMES!!!!
@@TraceyMak1 Yay! Glad I could be of help!
I dont like drop frame, 0,97 0,98... I preffer 25p from a 60p footage... And if I notice some frame slowdown I activate the optical flow and get rid of it... This is just me... And well... I live in a PAL country. :D
w1p30ut3r That’s a good tip to use optical flow to smooth out any kinks in the downsampling. Thanks for your valued input mate!
Hi thanks for awesome videos, could you please share the link for strap quick release system you use? Thanks
Thanks so much mate, appreciate your comment! The strap is the peak designs old model of the leash - www.peakdesign.com/product/straps/
Thanks for quick reply Michael. I have another question. I hope you don't mind :) I just started using Canon for video and I am struggling with that sound that comes form my lenses when they are on autofocus. It is ok when I film somewhere where I can set up boom mic and record sound on external recorded, but what about vlogging? I have just noticed that Peter McKinnon is vlogging with his on-camera microphone and it focuses silently. For example this video - ruclips.net/video/SfbCLVZLXjI/видео.html time - 2:18 Could you be so kind to advise on that. I got 5d mk4 with 24-70mm f/2.8L II and 16-35mm f/2.8L III - both make same horrible sounds :) and in this, current video you haven't got any sound coming form your lens(or you are using external recorder?).
Leon Birger I vlog and recorded this on a 24mm f1.4 II L lens which is super quiet when Auto focusing. I believe Peter often uses the same lens to vlog with. I also use the rode Videomic pro which gets the mic away from the lens somewhat and has a rycote mount that means the AF sound will not be heard through the camera body as it is when using the in build Canera mic audio. Hope that helps mate, thanks so much for your comments!
Hey Man! really appreciate the insight! Have you ever thought of setting up these modes as Custom functions ie. C1, C2, C3 on the dial? I ended up doing that for my camera and makes swapping a breeze!
Thanks man! Haha, yes I have ruclips.net/video/5zDvCLmU_Ts/видео.html
Hello again, would it be possible that you show how to do the post production in Premiere pro? Create a style, tweak the colors and save as a lut/whatever? I've seen a lot of videos about it but struggle with the color tweaking.. I film with a Canon 5D Mark IV with CineStyle Picture Style - would be really cool if this part would also be interesting for you to make :) Best regards from Austria! (Cows & hills, not Kangaroos ;) )
TomStarsWalkOfFame Hi I just released a video on this very thing using Canon log on the 5D Mark 4. This is a bit different to Cinestyle but it will give you an idea of my process using premiere pro lumetri colour. ruclips.net/video/NFDK9TEac7U/видео.html
Michael Drowley perfect thanks!
Is there a way to do auto range iso for video? I only see it in stills
Hey Ben thanks for asking mate! I think you can set the camera to Tv mode and lock down your shutter to twice the frame rate - so 50 shutter for 25 fps shooting. This will effectively lock out the ISO so you can't set it, which will then allow the ISO to auto adjust to ensure you are getting the right amount of light into the camera. I don't like using auto anything though for video as you often get these exposure jumps in the footage and the higher you push the ISO, the more grain is introduced to the footage, which is why I try and keep it under 800. Hope that helps mate
FloatingOnAZephyr that doesnt work for auto iso. It only works for manually seting iso, the range which u can select during the actual recording.
Ben Cruz Hey mate, check out my latest vid for setting auto ISO ruclips.net/video/RDNDMb8CtiY/видео.html
What is the picture style
DL Photography Standard with contrast down 2, 3 points 👌🏻
@@MichaelDrowley thank you sir
Great breakdown. Thanks!!!!
I am a dog trainer and I like to film dogs running and chasing things. What would be the best settings for shooting in the day with dogs chasing a rabbit switching directions back and forth
(I do not actually have the dogs chase rabits. I only want you to know how the dogs will be behaving)
Hey Jeff, that's cool as, I have 2 huskies I often film running down at the beach. I like to shoot in 60fps so that I can slow it down later. Also high frame rate mode (120 fps) upscaled to 1080p later in post might give you some good results for super slow motion. For 60fps have your shutter speed at 120 and then adjust your aperture to capture a lot of depth of field and set the autofocus to tracking mode but not face detection, not sure exactly what setting but almost like a continuous object tracking setting that you might use for filming sports action. Keep your ISO below about 400 and you should get clean footage. Hope that helps mate!
What about log and luts?
ruclips.net/video/ds7d3iG8tf8/видео.htmlsi=88zVluAyk54waqjG check out this video. I also sell a clog LUT that I developing for the 5D4 which removes some of the RED cast and ads a bit more saturation. And I sell a pack of clog luts I developed on the EOS R if you’re interested. Check out my website for more info MichaelDrowley.com
can't change the fps rate on my 5d m4. can't even find it following your video.
Is the camera set to PAL or NTSC?
@@MichaelDrowley i can't find the movie record quality button, and i can't make it record when i hit live mode. you guys need to show us in detail which buttons to push and slow down a bit, not all 5d's have the same settings from what i see. thank you.
@@MichaelDrowley yes, it is in ntsc
You might be in photography mode. Check the Toggle flick switch under the start stop record button is set to the red video not the white photo.
@@MichaelDrowley got it, thank you sir. that was the problem. I just got this cam on Saturday.
Interesting. I use NTSC for the same reasons, although I'm in Australia. Only thing you have to be careful with is filming inside, as you can get a 'flicker' if you're using lights. So, if I don't need 59.94fps, I swap over to PAL. Have you noticed any flicker in the footage with NTSC?
FloNo Trail Yeah, I cover that in my last point actually. 15. Caveats - check it out and let me know your thoughts on it? The 60p just looks so buttery
FloNo Trail I’m also in Australia
Michael Drowley - haha yes, I didn't make it right to the end as your settings seem to be pretty much the same as mine. I did find it interesting however what you suggested about just changing the shutter speed (rather than video format) . I'll have to try that and see. I do like the 59.94fps - . I've noticed quite a lot of people moving back to the Canon 5D4 in the last little while. I also like the 4k - I use an l-series 11-24 f4 to retain the wider angle - other wise the 24-70 f2.8
Michael Drowley yep, that accent was a give-away:) Ive watched a few of your videos now - )
Which is better... Mov or Mp4??
Hi, thanks for your comment! The best for the 5DIV is .mov as it includes the option for ALL-I shooting which uses less compression than IPB. IPB is available in both .mov and .mp4 but ALL-I is only available in .mov Hope that makes sense?
what are the little things dangling on the side? i've seen this with a few people's set ups and don't understand.
Bill Emmrich little game changing quick release strap locks from peak design - www.peakdesign.com/products/slide
Michael Drowley ohhh ok cool.
After setting my FPS to 120 and doubling my shutter speed. If I leave my ISO in auto it gives me a grainy footage, however if I put it in manual mode say 400. My image gets extremely dark. Any help with this anyone?
You’ll need to, 1. shoot with more light, 2. Shoot with wider Aputure. 3. try 800 ISO or up to 1200 ISO and reduce any noise in post. 4. Drop shutter down to 150 or 180. When you crank up the shutter to compensate for the high frame rate you do loose light hitting the sensor though so dealing with noise in darker environments/scenes is something that will occur.
@@MichaelDrowley thankyou. I think I figured it out🙏🏽. Also Do you recommend a gimbal for Walkthroughs and room tours?
@@taphaelreid That’a great, I use “generate optimised media” and set your timeline resolution to 1920 x 1080 even if you have 4K footage as that will play smoother. Yeah, I use a gimbal, the older Ronin S and a glide cam HD4000 for longer more flowing shots. The electronic gimbals can have the walking bob up and down so I generally don’t do long flowing shots with them and if I do I still walk really carefully to make sure I get a smooth shot without that bobbing up and down that you see in a lot of home walkthrough videos.
@@MichaelDrowley Thankyou so much. I'm in the process of purchasing a A6600 and have seriously been binge watching your videos. Very informative and always a positive vibe. Thank you for your weath of knowledge.
4:50 Where is the light meter you are talking about? You are pointing at the audio levels.
Pointing to it with my thumb - right down the bottom looks like ----|----
I was trying to shoot video at 59 (slow motion) why won't my SS go under 60? TY
Maggie Collins Photography Hi Maggie, You can't use a 1/48 shutter at 60p because you're shooting at 59.976 frames per second (1/60 of a second for each frame), so the maximum amount of time that the shutter can be open is 1/60. If you are shooting 59.976fps I would use the 180 degree shutter angle rule which is to have the shutter set to double the frame rate or as close to it as possible. For 60p this would be 1/125. Hope that helps Maggie!!!
Thank you so much!
Hi Michael, this video was really helpful! Thank you for sharing.
I was wondering if you could answer a question I had.
I am using the 5DIv also and am just getting into film making as a photographer and have been experimenting with filming slow motion at 120 fps, however when filming I am finding that my focus locks on the first thing I focus on and will not change as I move the camera around, I was wondering if you knew why this would be happening?
Thanks!
Sarah
Sarah Gilchrist Thanks Sarah!!! I think what you’re probably finding is that the AF shuts down completely when you film in 120fps unfortunately. With the 5D4, I’d switch it up to 60fps if you did need to retain autofocus while shooting slow motion. Otherwise you’ll have to get good at manual focusing which is tricky if you are using a gimbal. The way I do it is I keep a similar focal distance from the subject and shoot a bit wider aperture so it’s not as noticeable as you move in and out of focus from your fixed focus point.
@@MichaelDrowley Hi Michael, thank you so much for your reply! I was going crazy trying to figure out what was going on. This really helps. I appreciate it! I'll give those tips a try :)
oh its this old camera i better save money for mark V mayby it will have 10 or 12bit compression or what ever
4k MJPEG! it sound like more worse than IPB
Save for EOS R5 instead. Since moved to EOS R which is great.
Just mention that you need to flip the switch from Photo to Video! Otherwise, you won't see some of these menu options!
Good pickup! Appreciate your comment! Thank you
@@MichaelDrowley For sure -- thanks for the video!
P.S- Magic Lantern for 5D4! Please arrive! People wanna shoot RAW already!
eladbari Yeah, heard anything yet?
At 2:30 mark
How did you get to this screen?
Husky Ron cycle info button
Why not use 4K? Because its less frames?
Yeah I think because I was wanting 50fps option. Could have shot in 4K though and upscaled the 50p 1080 as on the 5D it was a good strong codec
What not film in 4K?
Hey Derk, I film some in 1080 and some in 4K. It will usually depend on file size and storage considerations.