Thanks so much Carlos, super appreciate your comment and means a lot coming from you. You've taught me so much about exposure on the cinema line cameras! Looking forward to picking up the C100 Mk II soon!
I'm old school film photographer so I'm so used to using Kelvin degrees to get my white balance its easy as pie. And yes I today use my RGB luminous histogram to get my ETTR exposure and white balance correct in camera. Even though I shoot RAW I like to get it right in camera. Custom w.b. and Kelvin are clearly the best methods do white balance. Usually I watch a lot of people who have no clue as to what they are talking about but you are a refreshing change great job Michael.
Forster Stewart Thanks Forester! My eyes just aren't that good dialling in white balance using Kelvin although I tend to get pretty close these days. Thanks for the kind words.
Excellent tutorial... just two really minor points.. at 6:28 for clipped blacks you can say "crunched" to specifically refer to no image data in the dark areas, and 7:32 say "open up" to mean letting more light in - to me 'stop down' means closing aperture.
Cristi Kerekes What I said in previous comment is not entirely correct as it's also.referred to as a "middle" grey card. See here for more info www.tonycorbell.com/blog/2016/6/14/18-gray-the-middle-value
@@liamball8335 Good on you mate and thanks for grabbing the card! It'll help you get your white balance and exposure locked in everytime! I've sold about 20 of them I think. Affiliate stuff is ticking along nicely but I only promote what I use and not interested to make money off gear if it doesn't help in a big way! Thanks again for tuning in and I hope it helps you mate!
how would you suggest to set lighting on a Canon 5D Mark IV for recording a stage performance with the amount of light and the various colors of light are changing contantly? Thanks, I enjoy your videos.
Thank you! You’ll need to set the exposure so that at the brightest point in the performance the histogram is not clipping the highlights. That’s how I would do it. If there are full blackouts in the performance obviously it won’t be able to capture those. The colours of light would be best to shoot with white balance locked into a Kelvin value. Something around 4600-5200 Kelvin would be fine I reckon.
Thanks! I think you have to mirror the display to the HDMI in the HDMI settings and then cycle info button on the back of the camera to record that via the HDMI feed. Let me know if that works.
Cheers mate - good stuff. I havent used cars bit do use the histogram. The 5d4 doesn't have zebras but it does show you clearly when you are clipping the highlights - even without the histogram.
FloNo Trail Thanks mate, enjoyed your last one that I watched with the wifey on the TV so hadn’t commented yet! You nailed the bit where you talked to yourself in the edit! Loved the creativity and the After Effects stuff! You’re right about the 5D4, it is obvious to me when it’s highlight clipped but I have had a difficult scenario with clouds in the sky and exposing for skin tones on a face I lost the cloud detail. Log helped a bit but not enough to get all the info without a noisy image on the face and in the shadows. It was a nice beach framing but should have reframed for better final result. Client was still happy after all! Thanks for watching and journeying along with me here! Love your work
Michael Drowley - thanks mate- appreciate it. I always learn something I haven't been doing with the 5D when I watch your videos - I should use the cards. I don't have c-log- I was a bit concerned about the reports of increased nose over 400iso - but you seem to get good results- do you think it's worth it?
FloNo Trail The thing I’ve found with 90-95% of scenes with the 5D is it looks good shooting standard if you nail the white balance. Haha! So I reckon unless you are matching to C line cameras or need the extra stop or so of dynamic range that Log gives you then just sticking with a neutral picture profile and adding your look to it in post will look solid. I do like what Log has given me though, the ability to learn more about colour correction and shooting with a flat profile so when I step up to a new c line camera I will be all over the log and RAW workflow! 👌🏻
Interesting insights - cheers. That extra stop of DR would be nice - especially in the highlights. I guess expose for the highlights and pull back the shadows in post. Something to think about - if I could do without the camera for a week I might send it off:)
Worth your time for an in depth comparison of the cLog upgrade and profile options available. ruclips.net/video/AXIYQBwjFHg/видео.html As Carlos exposed to match his skin tones, the most noticeable areas are colour cast differences (maybe introduced in the colour grading process by Carlos) and the shadows in the right hand edge of the frame. The cLog though, looks absolutely like a much more expensive camera compared to the other 3 picture profiles - and to think he got to that look by just applying a single lut - the time it saves is undeniable.
Thank you for the video Michael👍 Can you do a video explaining how do you color grade your corporate videos when shoot with the c-log and what you do when you don’t use the c-log.. Thank you again.
Danilo Barbosa Thanks so much for checking it out Danilo! I’ll definitely do a video on my colour grading process soon - keep a look out for it in the coming weeks!
Hey Trevor, not a newbie question at all mate! You absolutely can use this outdoors however, there are a number of things at play when considering your exposure for outdoors, depending on where the sun is in the shot. If you are shooting towards the sun, then you may want to slightly under expose the skin tones in order to not blow out the background highlights too much and keep the entire scene within your dynamic range available on the historgram. However, in saying that, if you are shooting away from the sun or into a shaded area (ideal) then you can use this exact technique to get your exposure perfect for your skin tones and it will work like a charm! In terms of white balance this technique will work regardless of where the sun is at, but underexposed skin tone reflects light differently so when you use a grey card that isn't correctly exposed it may present a bit of a shift in the custom white balance method I show you in this video. My recommendation is shoot away from the sun or in the shade or check out how to setup a scrim when shooting outdoors. Hope that helps and thanks for stopping by.
I have the Canon 5D Mark iv. I can't get the Histogram to display, either in Live View or movie mode....I do have have the histogram brightness level selected.. it does show up when I go to review a single shot after the image is taken. I do have exposure simulation set to enable so what gives?
Try this: Select the spanner, menu 3 and then choose INFO button LV display options, choose Live View info switch settings and ensure box 1 is ticked. Then back to the live view screen and check that when you cycle through the info button the histogram is there.
@@MichaelDrowley Michael , thank you so much for this...I had "exposure simulation" in the red menu enabled....but why Canon put the Histogram activation for live view way over under INFO button LV display options then switch choices I don't get..why not have everything having to do with the Histogram under one menu. Foggy planning in my view...
It doesn’t have to be as long as the grey card is in focus and not blurry. I think I increased the shutter a little to get the exposure correct on the grey card shot.
Great video man, loving the videos, I have had my 5D Mark IV for about 5 days now, coming from an 80D, I went out to get some test footage the other day and totally blew out my exposure, I wasn’t paying attention to the exposure meter in the viewfinder. I’ve got a grey and white card, I just didn’t think of using them. I couldn’t believe the amount of detail from the 5D though, with my profile set flat it almost looked like C-Log anyway, I’m still contemplating getting it installed. Thanks again man!
Living With The Coopers Thanks so much for checking it out mate! The detail will be really nice compared to the 80D for sure and yeah flat picture style is really good on this camera! When shooting outside at times you may have to stop down a bit more so slightly under exposed skin tones, depending on direction and intensity of the sun! The histogram is probably worth checking out for this more than the light meter in the viewfinder - so try activating live view next time when first getting exposure. Once you know about where it sits on the light meter you can then use exposure compensation to make the adjustment before going back to the viewfinder and auto settings. This is specific for photography anyway! Oh, and for cLog I recommend it if you are doing a lot of shoots where you want to stretch the camera that little bit extra in terms of Dynamic range. So specific to Video, where you really need to shoot in a high contrast outdoor scene or indoors but with sunlight streaming through a window or similar scene. It gives you another stop or two of range from the sensor but it is tricky to get exposure spot on if you dealing with a really high dynamic scene where you are clipping highs and also lows so just keep that in mind. Thanks again for checking it out mate!
Michael Drowley thank you very much, it’s nice to see someone sharing their knowledge, I’m really looking forward to your future videos, you’ve helped me out a lot already!
I have a color edge monitor that has been properly color balanced and when I’m working on my images in premiere the color looks great. But when I preview them in QuickTime everything looks really flat and desaturated. Which color should I be trusting? Thx
Skip O'Donnell What’s your computer display colour space set to. Try setting to REC709 or adobe rgb instead of Apple rgb or default. It would seem that your monitor is picking up the rec709 colour reprdouction from premiere but your QuickTime May be pulling it’s colour reproduction from the display settings of your computer or your graphics card settings.
Michael - Thx for responding. I've actually created a custom color space using the Xrite r1 display tool and software, so I'm not using the default color space of my monitor
Skip O'Donnell I had an old issue where QuickTime exports did not apply my colour calibration and everything was washed out and desaturated. I went to rec709 on my monitor display settings and it fixed it; test to see that might be the problem?
Skip O'Donnell Haha, yep, next limitation is that rec709 and canon tend to bloom the highlights, some call it campfire effect. I adjust whitebalance toward blue. Many cameras favour green for skin tones which makes people look sick or anaemic so Canon tends toward red / orange. Good to know they are matching up now across the programs!
Great video! Thanks! I have one different question - are you trying to record 1080p via ext. recorder while your camera is standing in 4k mode, is it better than just record 1080(in camera) to 1080(in recorder)?
dexteroiio thanks for checking it out mate! The camera is just in FHD (Full HD mode) which is capturing at 1920x1080 resolution. I actually downsampled this to capture 1280x720 HD (Standard HD) to ensure it could buffer into my hard drive properly but it was flawless so will capture direct 1920x1080 next video like this. So in answer to your question. If the camera is in 4K mode, the output will still only be 1920x1080 as thatbis all the hdmi outputs on this camera. So you are correct to have the camera in 1920x1080 so that you can view it correctly and not cropped in via the 4K. However, if you run your camera and lens setup to normally frame and record to cards for 4K then you could setup the image with the 4K active knowing it will only capture it downsampled. Whether the image is better or not doing it that way - I’m not sure about that - might just be an extra step you may not need. PS - just looked and noticed black bars top and bottom so you would have to correct those also in post.
Blue in a night-time scene could mean noise in the shadows/blacks. Try “warming up” the image by boosting colour temperature in the edit. Then once you find a colour temp that looks right in the edit you can adopt that for your next shoot (set it manually to a kelvin value) It might also help to use Neat Video to denoise the footage.
If it doesn’t come up when cycling info button, then you’ll need to check the camera menu - the Live Histogram can only be displayed when “Exposure Simulation” is set to “Enable”.
Isaac Insoll hey Isaac, I shoot most of my stuff in prolost (Neutral with everything turned down). Sometimes I use Cinestyle to match when I shoot 2nd Cam on the 5D3. For quick turnarounds I use Standard and I love it. If you get the white balance right and the exposure isn’t clipping highlights it produces solid results - Prolost prolost.com/blog/2012/4/10/prolost-flat.html
Thanks big time! I live on the Gold Coast if you ever want to catch up for a coffee. Here’s my first attempt at a BTS - ruclips.net/video/adcl7-FNeME/видео.html
I mean cycle through info on screen using the info button. If the histogram doesn't come up then you need to check it's active on spanner (yellow) menu 3 and set it on there first. Then once it is on there you will see it when you cycle the info button when in live view. The item you want to check in the yellow spanner menu 3 is "info button LV display options."
hell yah I am subscribing. great content
curtis cook Thanks so much Curtis!
This is one of the best exposure demo videos ever...thanks for sharing!
Thanks so much Carlos, super appreciate your comment and means a lot coming from you. You've taught me so much about exposure on the cinema line cameras! Looking forward to picking up the C100 Mk II soon!
I'm old school film photographer so I'm so used to using Kelvin degrees to get my white balance its easy as pie. And yes I today use my RGB luminous histogram to get my ETTR exposure and white balance correct in camera. Even though I shoot RAW I like to get it right in camera. Custom w.b. and Kelvin are clearly the best methods do white balance. Usually I watch a lot of people who have no clue as to what they are talking about but you are a refreshing change great job Michael.
Forster Stewart Thanks Forester! My eyes just aren't that good dialling in white balance using Kelvin although I tend to get pretty close these days. Thanks for the kind words.
Best demonstration on how to check the exposure and white balance!
Christophe Ferreira Thanks so much my friend! 👌🏻🙏🏻
Excellent tutorial... just two really minor points.. at 6:28 for clipped blacks you can say "crunched" to specifically refer to no image data in the dark areas, and 7:32 say "open up" to mean letting more light in - to me 'stop down' means closing aperture.
Michael Andre Hey Michael thanks for the feedback! Great points you make
Is the grey part at 18% grey? (I did'n understand it well from the video). Thanks :)
Cristi Kerekes Yeah, it's an 18% grey card. I think it means it's 18% of the way toward black from white.
Cristi Kerekes What I said in previous comment is not entirely correct as it's also.referred to as a "middle" grey card. See here for more info www.tonycorbell.com/blog/2016/6/14/18-gray-the-middle-value
100%! This one of the best WB tutorial I’ve seen so far. Keep it up mate!
Homer Lopez Thanks so much Homer! Means a lot to get comments like this! I appreciate you checking it out mate.
Great video man. You are super easy to listen to. Keep up the awesome videos.
Ocean Justice Thanks for tuning in mate! 👌🏻
Thanks Michael - great job doing the weatherman thing of pointing out areas on the histogram live in your video shoot!
Liam Ball Haha! Thanks Liam. Happy New Year mate
Michael Drowley same back at you. I ordered the grey card from your link. Hopefully you made a few pennies from amazon for that.
@@liamball8335 Good on you mate and thanks for grabbing the card! It'll help you get your white balance and exposure locked in everytime! I've sold about 20 of them I think. Affiliate stuff is ticking along nicely but I only promote what I use and not interested to make money off gear if it doesn't help in a big way! Thanks again for tuning in and I hope it helps you mate!
how would you suggest to set lighting on a Canon 5D Mark IV for recording a stage performance with the amount of light and the various colors of light are changing contantly? Thanks, I enjoy your videos.
Thank you! You’ll need to set the exposure so that at the brightest point in the performance the histogram is not clipping the highlights. That’s how I would do it. If there are full blackouts in the performance obviously it won’t be able to capture those. The colours of light would be best to shoot with white balance locked into a Kelvin value. Something around 4600-5200 Kelvin would be fine I reckon.
@@MichaelDrowley thanks for your prompt reply. Keep up the good work !!!
Hey, great video. I'm curious how you got the viewfinder overlay. I teach a class and this would be great to know. Keep at it!
Thanks! I think you have to mirror the display to the HDMI in the HDMI settings and then cycle info button on the back of the camera to record that via the HDMI feed. Let me know if that works.
@@MichaelDrowley Thanks. I'll give it a shot. So an external recorder is needed or tether to computer. Is that correct?
@@358studios You can use CameraLive I think - how to set that up via this video ruclips.net/video/wE3dHiicCC8/видео.html
Great vid really helpful
Thank you for this video! I haven't seen such an informative video on WB and exposure for the 5d IV, so far.
Great job!
Kein RUclips Kanal Thanks for checking it out Kein! Glad it helped you mate! Appreciate you commenting!
Thanks Michael really clear!
Thanks Gino
Cheers mate - good stuff. I havent used cars bit do use the histogram. The 5d4 doesn't have zebras but it does show you clearly when you are clipping the highlights - even without the histogram.
FloNo Trail Thanks mate, enjoyed your last one that I watched with the wifey on the TV so hadn’t commented yet! You nailed the bit where you talked to yourself in the edit! Loved the creativity and the After Effects stuff! You’re right about the 5D4, it is obvious to me when it’s highlight clipped but I have had a difficult scenario with clouds in the sky and exposing for skin tones on a face I lost the cloud detail. Log helped a bit but not enough to get all the info without a noisy image on the face and in the shadows. It was a nice beach framing but should have reframed for better final result. Client was still happy after all! Thanks for watching and journeying along with me here! Love your work
Michael Drowley - thanks mate- appreciate it. I always learn something I haven't been doing with the 5D when I watch your videos - I should use the cards. I don't have c-log- I was a bit concerned about the reports of increased nose over 400iso - but you seem to get good results- do you think it's worth it?
FloNo Trail The thing I’ve found with 90-95% of scenes with the 5D is it looks good shooting standard if you nail the white balance. Haha! So I reckon unless you are matching to C line cameras or need the extra stop or so of dynamic range that Log gives you then just sticking with a neutral picture profile and adding your look to it in post will look solid. I do like what Log has given me though, the ability to learn more about colour correction and shooting with a flat profile so when I step up to a new c line camera I will be all over the log and RAW workflow! 👌🏻
Interesting insights - cheers. That extra stop of DR would be nice - especially in the highlights. I guess expose for the highlights and pull back the shadows in post. Something to think about - if I could do without the camera for a week I might send it off:)
Worth your time for an in depth comparison of the cLog upgrade and profile options available. ruclips.net/video/AXIYQBwjFHg/видео.html As Carlos exposed to match his skin tones, the most noticeable areas are colour cast differences (maybe introduced in the colour grading process by Carlos) and the shadows in the right hand edge of the frame. The cLog though, looks absolutely like a much more expensive camera compared to the other 3 picture profiles - and to think he got to that look by just applying a single lut - the time it saves is undeniable.
Thank you for the video Michael👍
Can you do a video explaining how do you color grade your corporate videos when shoot with the c-log and what you do when you don’t use the c-log..
Thank you again.
Danilo Barbosa Thanks so much for checking it out Danilo! I’ll definitely do a video on my colour grading process soon - keep a look out for it in the coming weeks!
I second the request for a colour grading video and a seperate c log video 😀
What LUT do you use when shooting in c-log?
Wheel With Me ruclips.net/video/G7_ZZV2HHZU/видео.html
Super helpful. Thank you for the awesome content.
Matthew Tait Thanks Matthew! And thanks for the sub man! Appreciate it
Would you be able use this technique in say an outdoor shoot? Apologies for the newbie question.
Hey Trevor, not a newbie question at all mate! You absolutely can use this outdoors however, there are a number of things at play when considering your exposure for outdoors, depending on where the sun is in the shot. If you are shooting towards the sun, then you may want to slightly under expose the skin tones in order to not blow out the background highlights too much and keep the entire scene within your dynamic range available on the historgram. However, in saying that, if you are shooting away from the sun or into a shaded area (ideal) then you can use this exact technique to get your exposure perfect for your skin tones and it will work like a charm! In terms of white balance this technique will work regardless of where the sun is at, but underexposed skin tone reflects light differently so when you use a grey card that isn't correctly exposed it may present a bit of a shift in the custom white balance method I show you in this video. My recommendation is shoot away from the sun or in the shade or check out how to setup a scrim when shooting outdoors. Hope that helps and thanks for stopping by.
I have the Canon 5D Mark iv. I can't get the Histogram to display, either in Live View or movie mode....I do have have the histogram brightness level selected.. it does show up when I go to review a single shot after the image is taken. I do have exposure simulation set to enable so what gives?
Try this: Select the spanner, menu 3 and then choose INFO button LV display options, choose Live View info switch settings and ensure box 1 is ticked. Then back to the live view screen and check that when you cycle through the info button the histogram is there.
Also make sure exposure simulation in menu is set to enable
@@MichaelDrowley Michael , thank you so much for this...I had "exposure simulation" in the red menu enabled....but why Canon put the Histogram activation for live view way over under INFO button LV display options then switch choices I don't get..why not have everything having to do with the Histogram under one menu. Foggy planning in my view...
When you photograph the grey card, is it the same shutter speed and f-stop as your video settings?
It doesn’t have to be as long as the grey card is in focus and not blurry. I think I increased the shutter a little to get the exposure correct on the grey card shot.
How does it stand against the Sony FS100 in video. Besides the 4k. But just shooting in 1920x1080. Like details and everything.
I'm not sure about that as I have not used the FS100. Will have to get my hands on one and do a side by side comparison!
Great video mate, Thanks
Hi Michael can I use the white card instead of the grey for the white balance ?
Hi mate, yeah you can! 👌🏻
The 18% grey card has a similarity to skin tones which is why it’s superior to dial in white balance for shooting subjects.
Great video man, loving the videos, I have had my 5D Mark IV for about 5 days now, coming from an 80D, I went out to get some test footage the other day and totally blew out my exposure, I wasn’t paying attention to the exposure meter in the viewfinder.
I’ve got a grey and white card, I just didn’t think of using them.
I couldn’t believe the amount of detail from the 5D though, with my profile set flat it almost looked like C-Log anyway, I’m still contemplating getting it installed.
Thanks again man!
Living With The Coopers Thanks so much for checking it out mate! The detail will be really nice compared to the 80D for sure and yeah flat picture style is really good on this camera! When shooting outside at times you may have to stop down a bit more so slightly under exposed skin tones, depending on direction and intensity of the sun! The histogram is probably worth checking out for this more than the light meter in the viewfinder - so try activating live view next time when first getting exposure. Once you know about where it sits on the light meter you can then use exposure compensation to make the adjustment before going back to the viewfinder and auto settings. This is specific for photography anyway! Oh, and for cLog I recommend it if you are doing a lot of shoots where you want to stretch the camera that little bit extra in terms of Dynamic range. So specific to Video, where you really need to shoot in a high contrast outdoor scene or indoors but with sunlight streaming through a window or similar scene. It gives you another stop or two of range from the sensor but it is tricky to get exposure spot on if you dealing with a really high dynamic scene where you are clipping highs and also lows so just keep that in mind. Thanks again for checking it out mate!
Michael Drowley thank you very much, it’s nice to see someone sharing their knowledge, I’m really looking forward to your future videos, you’ve helped me out a lot already!
I have a color edge monitor that has been properly color balanced and when I’m working on my images in premiere the color looks great. But when I preview them in QuickTime everything looks really flat and desaturated. Which color should I be trusting? Thx
Skip O'Donnell What’s your computer display colour space set to. Try setting to REC709 or adobe rgb instead of Apple rgb or default. It would seem that your monitor is picking up the rec709 colour reprdouction from premiere but your QuickTime May be pulling it’s colour reproduction from the display settings of your computer or your graphics card settings.
Michael - Thx for responding. I've actually created a custom color space using the Xrite r1 display tool and software, so I'm not using the default color space of my monitor
Skip O'Donnell I had an old issue where QuickTime exports did not apply my colour calibration and everything was washed out and desaturated. I went to rec709 on my monitor display settings and it fixed it; test to see that might be the problem?
That definitely gets both of them looking much more similar to each other, but now they both look really warm and a bit red
Skip O'Donnell Haha, yep, next limitation is that rec709 and canon tend to bloom the highlights, some call it campfire effect. I adjust whitebalance toward blue. Many cameras favour green for skin tones which makes people look sick or anaemic so Canon tends toward red / orange. Good to know they are matching up now across the programs!
Well explained, greatvideo, love your channel
best video hands down
Eitan Litner Thanks so much Eitan! Really appreciate you checking out my Video and so glad you like it!
Thank you, very good info! New subscriber here.
Awesome. Learned some cool stuff. Cheers.
That histogram peak is your t-shirt mate
Yep, you are correct. It also includes the shadow detail on the dark wall in the back of the frame.
Awesome.. How did you record the view finder?
RobZimiga I used the elgato camlink for this via hdmi and you can record the back screen with info on to OBS
@@MichaelDrowley thanks again. I'll check it out
Great video! Thanks!
I have one different question - are you trying to record 1080p via ext. recorder while your camera is standing in 4k mode, is it better than just record 1080(in camera) to 1080(in recorder)?
dexteroiio thanks for checking it out mate! The camera is just in FHD (Full HD mode) which is capturing at 1920x1080 resolution. I actually downsampled this to capture 1280x720 HD (Standard HD) to ensure it could buffer into my hard drive properly but it was flawless so will capture direct 1920x1080 next video like this. So in answer to your question. If the camera is in 4K mode, the output will still only be 1920x1080 as thatbis all the hdmi outputs on this camera. So you are correct to have the camera in 1920x1080 so that you can view it correctly and not cropped in via the 4K. However, if you run your camera and lens setup to normally frame and record to cards for 4K then you could setup the image with the 4K active knowing it will only capture it downsampled. Whether the image is better or not doing it that way - I’m not sure about that - might just be an extra step you may not need. PS - just looked and noticed black bars top and bottom so you would have to correct those also in post.
Michael Drowley Thanks!
I use the same camera has you my white balance comes out in blue I do night panning photos. Of planes landing and takeoff any tips on that. Please
Blue in a night-time scene could mean noise in the shadows/blacks. Try “warming up” the image by boosting colour temperature in the edit. Then once you find a colour temp that looks right in the edit you can adopt that for your next shoot (set it manually to a kelvin value) It might also help to use Neat Video to denoise the footage.
FInally upgraded to the Mark 4 but cant find where the heck the histogram is hidden, I cycled through multiple times. No luck.
If it doesn’t come up when cycling info button, then you’ll need to check the camera menu - the Live Histogram can only be displayed when “Exposure Simulation” is set to “Enable”.
@@MichaelDrowley Thanks for the reply, Appreciated,
Good job man. 👌🏻
HourGlassFab Thanks mate!
What picture profile do you use when not shooting in log?
Isaac Insoll hey Isaac, I shoot most of my stuff in prolost (Neutral with everything turned down). Sometimes I use Cinestyle to match when I shoot 2nd Cam on the 5D3. For quick turnarounds I use Standard and I love it. If you get the white balance right and the exposure isn’t clipping highlights it produces solid results - Prolost prolost.com/blog/2012/4/10/prolost-flat.html
Thanks big time! I live on the Gold Coast if you ever want to catch up for a coffee. Here’s my first attempt at a BTS - ruclips.net/video/adcl7-FNeME/видео.html
Hi i have the warning indicator same as your wifi blinking but just above the exposure. What does that mean ?
cycle through the menus means nothing...how do I get the histogram to appear?
I mean cycle through info on screen using the info button. If the histogram doesn't come up then you need to check it's active on spanner (yellow) menu 3 and set it on there first. Then once it is on there you will see it when you cycle the info button when in live view. The item you want to check in the yellow spanner menu 3 is "info button LV display options."
Excellent video, thank you!
Can you link to that grey card?
Seriously how do you not have like 500k subs. Your awesome
amzn.to/2IgSvUd Added to description as well. Cheers mate and thanks for your subscription!
Michael Drowley thanks man!
Love the video, thank you! New Subscriber in Qld here.
Thanks for checking out and video and subscribing Charlie! Glad it brought you some value
Subscribed
Your initial histogram comments seem backwards,
THANK YOU for this very useful video!! :)