Thank You! Pretty new to 3D printing and was getting great prints on my Voxelab using PLA right off the bat. Then came PETG. I couldn't manage anything but either a stringy mess or no adhesion. Used your profile and voila, nearly PLA quality results. Subbed.
Nice vids as usual thx for the support on the Voxelab community i bought that printer because of your review an i rock it every day base on your tutorials keep it up !
That PTFE tubing sounds great, I upgraded one of my printers to Micro Swiss so I could print high-temperature materials but the Micro Swiss is not good at printing PLA as it loves to stick to the metal and cause clogging, with this PTFE tube I can print higher temp materials and PLA!
Tried printing with your PETG profile, works far better then what i was trying to do. Still getting some stringing and some of the skirt is lifting. Going to try glue. Having issues with bed adhesion even with the 80° bed.
Heck yeah!! I'm printing 240° 75° with elmer's glue stick. No fan. 5mm retraction with 50mm retraction speed. Very clean initial layer slowed down by 50%.
@@3DPrintSOS The filament I'm using recommended 230-250, so I just went right in the middle. Honestly I was having such difficulty printing anything decent that after getting it this close (95%) I just stopped playing with it.
got the printer yesterday and its great. Bought PET-G today and will test it later on. All the blame goes on you Fedor, bought the printer cause of you :)
@@3DPrintSOS have you tried printing spirograph with petg? Trying hard but keep on failing while using your profile. On the 2nd layer the nozzle pulls off first layer. I'm guessing temp of the nozzle is too low.
Comment: Great video! always enjoy the detail you put into your videos, since I got my printer things have been going smoothly thanks to you. Suggestion: Perhaps a fun video maybe? Showcasing your best prints (Figures/busts/parts etc) and sharing some details like the printers and/or settings you used to print it etc. Might be an easier and more relaxed vid but still interesting.
I tried a few like a personal project vid, then a 3D printed rc truck. I think this vid on one day got more views than those videos. Not saying I won’t be doing more of those, Im just trying to make content that will help in some way. At least for now. :)
@@3DPrintSOS Understandable sir. Perhaps in the future you could do a video showing how to replace the wheels and which ones you recommend?, My Aquila printer has been going for about 15-20 hours a day since I got it and noticed the wheels are wearing quickly hehe. Regardless thanks for the content.
thanks for the video. would you mind making a video showing how to set it of our settings for easy support removal? Maybe show the difference in standard supports & tree supports and how to config cura for each
@@3DPrintSOS Thanks for this helpful info. My printer is the Artillery Sidewinder X1, but I have had a dickens of a time with supports, especially printing miniatures for my 12-year-old grandson as he uses them in his D&D games, etc. He lives about 3.5 hours away, so when he comes over, I get him to help me try to remove the supports and it's not uncommon for us to work 2 hours carefully removing supports--and sometimes an important part will break. I know that it's just a matter of my not knowing how to configure the Cura settings, but I'm trying. (And, I think I mentioned in another comment that I'm pondering buying him a Aquila printer for his 13th birthday on July 22. So, your videos are PURE GOLD!)
Hi Would you please do a video of all your suggested "upgrades" to the Auila? I'm a 3D printing noob and I just bought one and am watching your videos for information. Could you include in the description of the video links to the upgrades? Than you very much for all that you do!
Working towards that. I just don’t want to modify anything too much because it prints better than my highly modified and custom machines. So I’ve been keeping it stock and just using it.
I'm going to try some thin wall prints within the next few weeks.. I hope the aquila can do it.. I'm printing pla at 235 right now just to get the layer adhesion.. just hoping it will get hot enough
@@3DPrintSOS well I'm about 200hrs in on this project and I have cut stock bowden tube 4 times from clogging and deformity.. I'm getting the same little splotches of gunk plastic on my start Seams.. I messed with my prime but can't find a happy medium either I get them or I get a horrible start seam so I have opted to clean all the parts up when they are done lol
Thanks again for this great video. Did you already try printing glow-in-the-dark filament? I've ruined one nozzle on my Aquila just in one print. If yes, do you know which kind of nozzle to use to print this kind of filament?
I’ve printed with em a bunch on other printers. But yea it chews up nozzles. I highly recommend zodiac nozzles, although pricey, they are the best. Otherwise I just buy a buuuunch of copper ones and swap em as I need them.
Hi Fedor I like all your videos and find them a great help as a newbie. I can't seem to find TECBOSS PTFE for sale anywhere. I am in the UK is there an alternative that is as good? Ray
Testing PETG for the first time and I used your profile, but I'm getting a lot of filament balling up on the nozzle and it ends up dragging across my print and removes the print from the bed. They layers also don't seem to be sticking. Any suggestions? Going through some more trouble shooting at the moment. Thanks!
Hmm. Try another time with no cooling at all just to see. Filament brands each have their own ideal settings. My profile should be a good starting point but technically, each roll is going to need some sort of tweaking. Good practice is to copy the profile, modify it and rename it for each brand/roll.
@@3DPrintSOS yeah, so its from lodesign. 1.75mm. cheap amazon stuff I was given. I'm super new to this. After playing with the settings it only moves through the head at 260 degrees. The bed at 100. And I left it over night, it was going smoothly and came back and PETG everywhere. Inside in the rubber cover. It was super stuck inside the tip. My machine couldn't get hot enough to get it out. I just pointed my heat gun at it for a bit and it came oozing out. I just threw it away. I'm worried it did more damage to the machine then me learning a lesson haha.
@@3DPrintSOS update haha, so what I end up doing is put masking tape and glue the tape. Now everything is running perfect. Now the machine is making a loud EEEEEEEEEEEEE! under the plate mechanism. Sounds like a fan or something. I gave it a Fanz tap on the chassis and it stops. 👍😄👍 ayyyyyy but it does come back. Any ideas? I guess I can try to take off that cover and see what's making that noise.
@3DPrintSOS I know you did mention in your previous video that mods are not too dire for this printer, but IF I wish to install a direct drive extruder on the Aquila, which one would you recommend? BTW, SUPER helpful videos! Thank you for all your help and guidance.
Honestly, I would try a printed solution first. Simply because it can be redone and tweaked. You can try something that attaches via the wheels in the back. You can always modify an existing one using tinkercad if you have no other experience. That way, it will be a fun experience vs just buying something. :)
Great Job!!! Could you possibly offer another link to the tubing your referring to. The current link is unavailable and I don't want to get the wrong tubing. Thanks In Advance...
I haven’t tried the PETG on the textured side, so I can’t say. But I do prefer the clean glass instead of the texture. Not only for the finish, but I’m finding slightly better adhesion. Only downside is you have to wait longer to remove the print
I just got my Aquila set up and running well, I had my z axis and y axis wheels too tight! Also I changed to Capricorn tubing and had nothing but issues, I thought I had partial clogs, I tweaked my e-steps, and flow rates, nothing helped. I pulled the old stock tube out of the drawer and voila! No more issues!!! One question, are you using the part cooling fan for PETG? I normally don't... Thanks!
I found 30% cooling to be a good medium. Hmm I wonder if the issue wasn’t the actual tubing but how it butted up against the nozzle. If it’s not a perfect cut or has a tiny gap, you’ll run into issues and clogging.
At your own risk. I have never printed PETG on anything else but glass. If you have your leveling too close to the bed, it can fuse. Otherwise, you should be good. I have had many many spools through several machines that have glass beds.
There is one but in my experience it’s not as good as the default in VoxelMaker. Some of the best prints I’ve gotten out of the Aries have been via VoxelMaker.
@@3DPrintSOS thanks the issue I’m having is I’m trying to pick a face that it can print on I print on angles, I have a 3D printing company for clipper parts. Also do you have petg settings for this printer? 🙏
I do not unfortunately, I’ve stuck with pla only on this machine. I would hit up the Facebook voxelab page. Lots of people there took the Aries further than me.
Hey if I have layer height to at .02 for pla and u said to print at 0.28 would t have push too much filament out of my nozzles? Mine looks like it too close to my bed and it scraping my 1st layer? Also some filament is getting stuck to my nozzle?
Yes, that’s a hair too close. You can always reduce the flow for the first layer but it would be better to just do a live level once your print starts. Make a 10 like brim or skirt and level the bed while it starts to print. ;)
THANKS FOR SHARING AGAIN. YOU PRINTED AT 228 AND GOT THAT PRINT? i KEEP GETTING ROUGH SPOTS. i DID A RETRACTION TEST AND A TEMP TEST FOR NOVAMAKER PETG. BEST TEMP AT 250 BEST RETRACT AT 5 SHOULD i MAKE THOSE CHANGES TO THE PROFILE?
Yea sure. Every filament is different. Even ambient temps and humidity in the room cause cause you to have different settings than me. Test and adjust. ;)
Thanks for the information, although I have done tests to print transparent PETG on aquila x2, the printer does not lower the cooling percentage even if I configure it that way, do you know why?
So I finally got my Eryone PETG settings right! My question is can the filament be to dry? I’ve heated it, and have it stored in an airtight 3gallon bucket with a bag of desiccant. The hygrometer is reading low, which I believe is
You can always see if your oven can go under 160f. 40-60 minutes could dry it a bit. I have a esun dryer now, it was well worth it. I use it all the time.
Oozing is normal. If you have filament in the nozzle when the nozzle is hot, it will always ooze a bit a filament. I always keep some long tweezers by the printer to pull it off right before prints.
Hello. I’ve just set up this printer and I felt like it was printing a little bit slowly. Theres an option for print speed. Will that affect resolution? Such as layer thickness or something?
Had the same issue, it appears the '.curaprofile' is an archive file type containing two files. Change the extension to .zip, extract the two files and in a text editor change the 'draft' value to a Cura Profile value (e.g. low) in both files. The re-zip them and replace the resultant filenames .zip extension to .curaprofile.
Love your videos bc I just bought your same model. Not a fan of your lighting setup. It creates a lot of dark shallows on the right side of your face. Thanks for the great content. Cheers :)
Trying ti import the profile and get this error,I'm running Cura 4.13.0 Successfully imported profile Aquila PETG. Warning: The profile is not visible because its quality type 'draft' is not available for the current configuration. Switch to a material/nozzle combination that can use this quality type.
Hmm. That typically happens when the printer is selected from a list instead being setup from a custom profile. Not sure though since you got PETG to load. :/
Let me know if something works, I’d love to know. But like I mentioned if you selected a printer like Ender 3, the profile typically won’t work. Only if you setup a custom offline printer.
I believe it is. There are modded versions on github. The issue is their custom graphics set. I believe that is why some people move to Ender 3 v2 firmware.
I’m having issues with my filament, My filament is from a trusted quality brand and has twists and cracks in it, is this my fault or this this a production fault?
@@3DPrintSOS Can you give "where to buy" details on the dryer you chose? Also, how you went through the decisions on where to place the dryer, how to use it, tips/hints/kinks, etc.? We don't want much, do we? Ha!
Me again - don’t know where else to ask. My stepper motors get super hot. I know where and how to lower the voltage on the drivers but... What do I set them to ?!
I wish I could give you a figure. Unfortunately I have no idea. I think your best bet is to ask on the Aquila subreddit and search around for answer for the Ender 3 v2. The answers gotta be there somewhere. Are there adjustment pots on the steppers or are you doing it via firnware?
hey man. can you help me? i change the plastic cover off hot end to a version of thingiverse and after that the printer just scrub the table and dont print well anymore. just the test printes. the bed its leved well. i dont know what happend. the new cover hit the bed. its not well done. i put he older cover on but do the same. before that it print so well litery out of the box. i just change thinks in cura. i love the printer. im novice at this yes but before its so nice. now i dont know what to do. please help me (sorry for my english btw) great channel man
If it’s doing it even with the stock cover, have you changed the z offset settings? Maybe they need to be set at zero. Is it just the cover hitting or the nozzle as well?
@@3DPrintSOS i do not change it i think. but i will see if its something wrong at the offsets. just the nozzle hit the bed. do you think its best do replace it? it rub for a wile it all the test i do. thanks for the awser man. keep up with the good job
PETG is has a hair more flex, so some consider it better for impacts. In my opinion it’s most important property is being able to handle higher heat. The stuff can sit outside muuuuch longer without warming or melting like pla.
I replaced the heat break in my ender 3 pro with this one. www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07JD2S4GK/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?smid=AJUKUXZVPYM6H&psc=1 In effect making it like an all metal hotend. Print PET-G exclusively. Will see if this will fit the aquila.
I installed the new heart break (fit perfectly) and ran a bunch of PET-G through it with absolutely no issues. I needed to shorten the retraction from 6mm to 3mm to avoid possible clogging issues.
My PLA and PLA+ stick to my build plate like they are glued on with super glue. Hot plate, cool plate, cold plate it does not matter I have ruined prints they are stuck so hard. Any suggestions I have cleaned the plate many times but nothing works.
Try flipping the plate over first since that’s free. This is a good problem to have though. Waaaay more people can’t get theirs to stick. You can try putting the plate and the print in the freezer. But the plate has to be room temp. Also you can buy any Ender 3 print plate and it would work with the Aquila. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS found you saying to flip the plate (I thought I remember that you said that) in your video on live leveling.. trying that now. I have my copper PLA that just came in making your Extruder upgrade parts now. If the first round sticks hard I will try the freezer trick on the 2nd round of parts. Thanks again for all you do.
@@Haki1112 I had to use a glue stick otherwise it always moves or doesn't lay down. I started with hair spray to confirm it was my issue and then ran out to the dollar store.
@@3DPrintSOS I have a problem is that I start a print and my bltouch starts to do the leveling and when it ends the test does not start my printing you can help me please I have a gcode problem in my cura profile
![[DRAGON BALL LEGENDS REVEALS ＆ STUFF] LEGENDS FESTIVAL 2024 Special Edition Part 2](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/af0phKxitX8/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank You! Pretty new to 3D printing and was getting great prints on my Voxelab using PLA right off the bat. Then came PETG. I couldn't manage anything but either a stringy mess or no adhesion. Used your profile and voila, nearly PLA quality results. Subbed.
Bam! Glad to hear it
Just used your profile for petg another flawless print thanks for all you do for the community!!
Good to hear. :)
Love that you are pushing the boundaries of this accessible printer, and sharing that info! Keep up the great work.
Thank you. This printer is a beast!
Nice vids as usual thx for the support on the Voxelab community i bought that printer because of your review an i rock it every day base on your tutorials keep it up !
Thanks for the support!
just printed some petg with your settings came out very well
That PTFE tubing sounds great, I upgraded one of my printers to Micro Swiss so I could print high-temperature materials but the Micro Swiss is not good at printing PLA as it loves to stick to the metal and cause clogging, with this PTFE tube I can print higher temp materials and PLA!
Tried printing with your PETG profile, works far better then what i was trying to do. Still getting some stringing and some of the skirt is lifting. Going to try glue. Having issues with bed adhesion even with the 80° bed.
Once the print starts, slow it down by 50% via the screen. If the prints get better, you just need to slow it down in the slicer for your next print.
Loving these man, made so much progress in the past week because of you!
Heck yea! Glad you’re enjoying the content
Really appreciate your videos. Had me up and running quickly
Glad I could help in some way. :)
Thx for the tips & the petg profile.. just loaded it up & prints perfectly!!
Absolutely. Glad it’s been useful!
I was wondering if it would do petg thanks a lot man appreciate everything you're doing
Glad it’s been useful
Older video, but the sliceengineering heatbreak is great for petg. No need to really worry about the ptfe tubing.
Nice! I’ve heard good things as well.
Heck yeah!! I'm printing 240° 75° with elmer's glue stick. No fan. 5mm retraction with 50mm retraction speed. Very clean initial layer slowed down by 50%.
Nice. I tried no fan but got sloppy edges. Had to go back to 30% fan. I also found 230 to be good enough for temps, no issues at 240 for you?
@@3DPrintSOS The filament I'm using recommended 230-250, so I just went right in the middle. Honestly I was having such difficulty printing anything decent that after getting it this close (95%) I just stopped playing with it.
That’s a good call on temps. I went with 230 cause that’s what I use on my other profiles on other printers. 95% is pretty good! ;)
Great stuff Fedor!
Thank you!
How convenient- I just got a roll of petg in today lol. Thanks for the video!
Good timing!
I see you were printing on the glass side. Did you apply anything to it before printing?? Great video and presentation!!
Nope, I just clean it really well with isopropyl alcohol
got the printer yesterday and its great. Bought PET-G today and will test it later on. All the blame goes on you Fedor, bought the printer cause of you :)
Oops haha.
@@3DPrintSOS have you tried printing spirograph with petg? Trying hard but keep on failing while using your profile. On the 2nd layer the nozzle pulls off first layer. I'm guessing temp of the nozzle is too low.
Hmm. Could be a number of things. Everyone’s setup and humidity and ambient temps are hair different. Don’t be scared to experiment.
Great information!. Love your videos. Subbed.
Good to see the printer showing off it’s capabilities 👍
Awesome 👍..must have been a telepathic thing .
Comment: Great video! always enjoy the detail you put into your videos, since I got my printer things have been going smoothly thanks to you.
Suggestion: Perhaps a fun video maybe? Showcasing your best prints (Figures/busts/parts etc) and sharing some details like the printers and/or settings you used to print it etc. Might be an easier and more relaxed vid but still interesting.
I tried a few like a personal project vid, then a 3D printed rc truck. I think this vid on one day got more views than those videos. Not saying I won’t be doing more of those, Im just trying to make content that will help in some way. At least for now. :)
@@3DPrintSOS Understandable sir. Perhaps in the future you could do a video showing how to replace the wheels and which ones you recommend?, My Aquila printer has been going for about 15-20 hours a day since I got it and noticed the wheels are wearing quickly hehe. Regardless thanks for the content.
Thanks! Really? Must be too tight! Ive never replaced wheels on any printer yet.
thanks for the video. would you mind making a video showing how to set it of our settings for easy support removal? Maybe show the difference in standard supports & tree supports and how to config cura for each
Great idea for a vid. :) the one setting that makes a big difference for easy support is the gap between the support and print. It should be .2mm ;)
@@3DPrintSOS Thanks for this helpful info. My printer is the Artillery Sidewinder X1, but I have had a dickens of a time with supports, especially printing miniatures for my 12-year-old grandson as he uses them in his D&D games, etc. He lives about 3.5 hours away, so when he comes over, I get him to help me try to remove the supports and it's not uncommon for us to work 2 hours carefully removing supports--and sometimes an important part will break. I know that it's just a matter of my not knowing how to configure the Cura settings, but I'm trying. (And, I think I mentioned in another comment that I'm pondering buying him a Aquila printer for his 13th birthday on July 22. So, your videos are PURE GOLD!)
That’s a cool thing you’re doing. It might be beneficial for you to go to a smaller nozzle if you do a lot of small minis
Hi Would you please do a video of all your suggested "upgrades" to the Auila? I'm a 3D printing noob and I just bought one and am watching your videos for information. Could you include in the description of the video links to the upgrades? Than you very much for all that you do!
Working towards that. I just don’t want to modify anything too much because it prints better than my highly modified and custom machines. So I’ve been keeping it stock and just using it.
Any chance of doing another video on the Aquila X2 printing PETG but more of a 'troubleshooting' guide?
I just got a ton of PETG in to play with. Soon!
Damn you beat me on the PETG test but I will be uploading my test today too. Whish me luck. Oh and I bought a few extra nozzles just in case
Nice. Good luck with PETG. Use my profile as a base. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS will do bud
I'm going to try some thin wall prints within the next few weeks.. I hope the aquila can do it.. I'm printing pla at 235 right now just to get the layer adhesion.. just hoping it will get hot enough
That’s really hot for PLA! How’s it printing?
@@3DPrintSOS well I'm about 200hrs in on this project and I have cut stock bowden tube 4 times from clogging and deformity.. I'm getting the same little splotches of gunk plastic on my start Seams.. I messed with my prime but can't find a happy medium either I get them or I get a horrible start seam so I have opted to clean all the parts up when they are done lol
@@3DPrintSOS and I did do the bowden tube upgrade well worth it
Grab some tecboss tubing. That stuff is good under 300c.
@@3DPrintSOS It looks like Tecboss is OOS.Any other suggestions?
Thanks again for this great video.
Did you already try printing glow-in-the-dark filament? I've ruined one nozzle on my Aquila just in one print. If yes, do you know which kind of nozzle to use to print this kind of filament?
I’ve printed with em a bunch on other printers. But yea it chews up nozzles. I highly recommend zodiac nozzles, although pricey, they are the best. Otherwise I just buy a buuuunch of copper ones and swap em as I need them.
Use steel nozzle they last longer
Hi Fedor I like all your videos and find them a great help as a newbie. I can't seem to find TECBOSS PTFE for sale anywhere. I am in the UK is there an alternative that is as good?
Ray
Unfortunately, Tecboss is gone now. Capricorn is the next best thing.
Testing PETG for the first time and I used your profile, but I'm getting a lot of filament balling up on the nozzle and it ends up dragging across my print and removes the print from the bed. They layers also don't seem to be sticking. Any suggestions? Going through some more trouble shooting at the moment. Thanks!
Hmm. Try another time with no cooling at all just to see. Filament brands each have their own ideal settings. My profile should be a good starting point but technically, each roll is going to need some sort of tweaking.
Good practice is to copy the profile, modify it and rename it for each brand/roll.
The techboss tubing on your link is no longer available. Is there a comparable tubing you recommend? Thanks for your great videos.
We’ve sold them out! Unfortunately they didn’t reply to any of my emails. So, Capricorn is what I’d recommend next.
So I have the Aries, I'm struggling a bit. Gonna keep trying.
Struggling with PETG or something specific?
@@3DPrintSOS yeah, so its from lodesign. 1.75mm. cheap amazon stuff I was given. I'm super new to this. After playing with the settings it only moves through the head at 260 degrees. The bed at 100. And I left it over night, it was going smoothly and came back and PETG everywhere. Inside in the rubber cover. It was super stuck inside the tip. My machine couldn't get hot enough to get it out. I just pointed my heat gun at it for a bit and it came oozing out. I just threw it away. I'm worried it did more damage to the machine then me learning a lesson haha.
Typically when filament oozes like that it’s due to loose nozzle.
@@3DPrintSOS update haha, so what I end up doing is put masking tape and glue the tape. Now everything is running perfect. Now the machine is making a loud EEEEEEEEEEEEE! under the plate mechanism. Sounds like a fan or something. I gave it a Fanz tap on the chassis and it stops. 👍😄👍 ayyyyyy but it does come back. Any ideas? I guess I can try to take off that cover and see what's making that noise.
That’s definitely a bad fan bearing. Happens on all voxelab machines. You can easily swap the 24v 40mm fan.
@3DPrintSOS I know you did mention in your previous video that mods are not too dire for this printer, but IF I wish to install a direct drive extruder on the Aquila, which one would you recommend? BTW, SUPER helpful videos! Thank you for all your help and guidance.
Honestly, I would try a printed solution first. Simply because it can be redone and tweaked. You can try something that attaches via the wheels in the back. You can always modify an existing one using tinkercad if you have no other experience. That way, it will be a fun experience vs just buying something. :)
You the real MVP!
💪🏻
Great Job!!! Could you possibly offer another link to the tubing your referring to. The current link is unavailable and I don't want to get the wrong tubing. Thanks In Advance...
Sure. :) amzn.to/3B7lO3L this a good kit with some extras.
Excellent video Fedor! Noticed you had the glass bed upside down to print on the smooth side, never tried this, is it the best way to print petg?
I haven’t tried the PETG on the textured side, so I can’t say. But I do prefer the clean glass instead of the texture. Not only for the finish, but I’m finding slightly better adhesion. Only downside is you have to wait longer to remove the print
I just got my Aquila set up and running well, I had my z axis and y axis wheels too tight! Also I changed to Capricorn tubing and had nothing but issues, I thought I had partial clogs, I tweaked my e-steps, and flow rates, nothing helped. I pulled the old stock tube out of the drawer and voila! No more issues!!! One question, are you using the part cooling fan for PETG? I normally don't... Thanks!
I found 30% cooling to be a good medium. Hmm I wonder if the issue wasn’t the actual tubing but how it butted up against the nozzle. If it’s not a perfect cut or has a tiny gap, you’ll run into issues and clogging.
Can you make BL touch on voxelab aqila im having problems on mine
So can I print petg on a glass bed without hairspray or a glue stick on the aquila? I've heard of it welding itself to the glass
At your own risk. I have never printed PETG on anything else but glass. If you have your leveling too close to the bed, it can fuse. Otherwise, you should be good. I have had many many spools through several machines that have glass beds.
Is there a printer profile for cura for the Aries that matches any of the Ender profiles
There is one but in my experience it’s not as good as the default in VoxelMaker. Some of the best prints I’ve gotten out of the Aries have been via VoxelMaker.
@@3DPrintSOS thanks the issue I’m having is I’m trying to pick a face that it can print on I print on angles, I have a 3D printing company for clipper parts. Also do you have petg settings for this printer? 🙏
I do not unfortunately, I’ve stuck with pla only on this machine. I would hit up the Facebook voxelab page. Lots of people there took the Aries further than me.
@@3DPrintSOS ok I’m checking now
Hey if I have layer height to at .02 for pla and u said to print at 0.28 would t have push too much filament out of my nozzles? Mine looks like it too close to my bed and it scraping my 1st layer? Also some filament is getting stuck to my nozzle?
Yes, that’s a hair too close. You can always reduce the flow for the first layer but it would be better to just do a live level once your print starts. Make a 10 like brim or skirt and level the bed while it starts to print. ;)
THANKS FOR SHARING AGAIN. YOU PRINTED AT 228 AND GOT THAT PRINT? i KEEP GETTING ROUGH SPOTS. i DID A RETRACTION TEST AND A TEMP TEST FOR NOVAMAKER PETG. BEST TEMP AT 250 BEST RETRACT AT 5 SHOULD i MAKE THOSE CHANGES TO THE PROFILE?
Yea sure. Every filament is different. Even ambient temps and humidity in the room cause cause you to have different settings than me. Test and adjust. ;)
Which version of cura are you using? I'm running 4.12.1 I'm not to familiar with using cura I mainly use voxelmaker
I use the latest version of Cura.
@@3DPrintSOS ok I have the file saved and unzipped on my computer but can't figure out how to load it in cura
You head to your profiles and choose import. From there, when you select Your Aquila, you should see the imported profile
@@3DPrintSOS I'll try it in the morning. Thanks
Thanks for the information, although I have done tests to print transparent PETG on aquila x2, the printer does not lower the cooling percentage even if I configure it that way, do you know why?
Hey man can confirm the ender 3 direct drive will swap for it. only hiccup is you need to add something to the side to hit the x axis stop.
Noted! Which kit did you use?
@@3DPrintSOS creality its on Amazon
There are a few. Any one specifically?
@@3DPrintSOS it says ender 3/3s/3pro direct drive kit
So I finally got my Eryone PETG settings right! My question is can the filament be to dry? I’ve heated it, and have it stored in an airtight 3gallon bucket with a bag of desiccant. The hygrometer is reading low, which I believe is
You can always see if your oven can go under 160f. 40-60 minutes could dry it a bit. I have a esun dryer now, it was well worth it. I use it all the time.
@@3DPrintSOS I just got my eSun dryer yesterday. So what I’m hearing is that filament can not be tooooo dry?!
Not as far as I know. Dry is good.
Can it print tpu and if so do you have a profile for tpu , love the videos
Yep! I have a vid on TPU with profile details. :)
Great video 👍
Glad you enjoyed it. :)
Do I need to mod the Aquila pro to use pla
No, not at all. It does great with pla. I have a video on the Aquila Pro. Check it out.
@@3DPrintSOS my bad I watched your video but meant to say TPU
Fedor: the profile isn’t loading in cura gives an error about draft etc
Just means you need to setup the printer just like me. If you’re picking one from the list like an Ender, it won’t work.
Tried opening the profile but my system won't open it.
How do you get it to stick so well? I have been struggling for days trying to get it right.
It’s all in the bed leveling I’m afraid.
@@3DPrintSOS ive also noticed it like slowly oozes out the tip causing it to get stuck on the nozzle any tips on that?
Oozing is normal. If you have filament in the nozzle when the nozzle is hot, it will always ooze a bit a filament. I always keep some long tweezers by the printer to pull it off right before prints.
I have Capricorn tubing instead of the stock bowden tube. Is that good enough for PETG?
Saludos hay forma de configurar la pantalla para que aparezca el nombre completo del archivo a imprimir y no solo una parte del nombre
Hello. I’ve just set up this printer and I felt like it was printing a little bit slowly. Theres an option for print speed. Will that affect resolution? Such as layer thickness or something?
Not so much resolution, but it could start to get sloppy or pop the print off the bed. 60mm/s would be the fastest I’d ever go on this.
I upgraded my tube to the Capricorn tube. Will it be able to handle the higher heat needed for the petg?
For PETG, yes. :)
@@3DPrintSOS sweet from what I read on Facebook everybody said that should be the first upgrade besides the silicone springs. I'm glad I did
Yea that’s a great first mod. Then fans for sure. ;)
Hey! I tried to import the profile but I was not able to due to the "draft" quality type. How do I fix that so I can import it into Cura?
Had the same issue, it appears the '.curaprofile' is an archive file type containing two files. Change the extension to .zip, extract the two files and in a text editor change the 'draft' value to a Cura Profile value (e.g. low) in both files. The re-zip them and replace the resultant filenames .zip extension to .curaprofile.
Love your videos bc I just bought your same model. Not a fan of your lighting setup. It creates a lot of dark shallows on the right side of your face. Thanks for the great content. Cheers :)
I still have no lights. I need to invest soon! I have overhead lights on one side of me and it makes harsh shadows. Soon!
How do I put the petg profile in cura 4.9.1
I think you need to add the printer in the same way I do. Otherwise if you’re using an Ender 3 let’s say, it may not work.
Trying ti import the profile and get this error,I'm running Cura 4.13.0
Successfully imported profile Aquila PETG.
Warning: The profile is not visible because its quality type 'draft' is not available for the current configuration. Switch to a material/nozzle combination that can use this quality type.
Hmm. That typically happens when the printer is selected from a list instead being setup from a custom profile. Not sure though since you got PETG to load. :/
@@3DPrintSOS I don't know either.I'll keep trying.
Let me know if something works, I’d love to know. But like I mentioned if you selected a printer like Ender 3, the profile typically won’t work. Only if you setup a custom offline printer.
@@3DPrintSOS That was it,I was using the ender 3 printer. I did custom and everything is good now. Don't know how I missed that.:) Thanks
;)
My stock PTFE tube became constricted in the hot end from heat or something. I had to pull it out, cut off 1/4" and reinsert it. All good now.
Yep, that’s fairly common. It typically happens if there was a gap between the tube. Or if the tube wasn’t cut perfectly straight. ;)
Can’t load in the cura profile, can anyone save them as a project?
can it print PET plastic? because im wanting to build a "PET bot"
Yep, it’ll do it. :)
Is the printer firmware open source on the Aquila?
I believe it is. There are modded versions on github. The issue is their custom graphics set. I believe that is why some people move to Ender 3 v2 firmware.
Will the profile work on Ender 3? Thanks
It should. These are very close. Only main difference is x axis limit switch location. Otherwise, the same.
@@3DPrintSOS thanks so much for replying. I did load it but does not show up in Cura
Hmm since my profile is setup as a “custom printer” you may have to do that as well. Otherwise, it won’t append to the printer.
@@3DPrintSOS how can I do that? I have never done it before, thanks
Direct Drive mods in foreseeable future ?
I’ve never had a direct drive system on any of my printers. I’m very comfortable with bowden. With that said, I won’t rule it out. ;)
Is this profile for pla or petg?
PETG, but you can grab the rest in my Linktree link.
I’m having issues with my filament, My filament is from a trusted quality brand and has twists and cracks in it, is this my fault or this this a production fault?
If it’s cracking, it might just have moisture in it. Drying filament is normal. I ended up buying a dedicated dryer for that type of thing.
@@3DPrintSOS Can you give "where to buy" details on the dryer you chose? Also, how you went through the decisions on where to place the dryer, how to use it, tips/hints/kinks, etc.? We don't want much, do we? Ha!
Haha. I have links for it in a few videos but it seems to go in and out of stock on Amazon all the time. :/
Me again - don’t know where else to ask. My stepper motors get super hot. I know where and how to lower the voltage on the drivers but... What do I set them to ?!
Currently around 1.2 Volts across the board
I wish I could give you a figure. Unfortunately I have no idea. I think your best bet is to ask on the Aquila subreddit and search around for answer for the Ender 3 v2. The answers gotta be there somewhere.
Are there adjustment pots on the steppers or are you doing it via firnware?
did updating your firmware did your PLA to imprint better?
I don’t quite understand the question. :/
@@3DPrintSOS updating your firmware on your voxelab make your 3d prints better?
Oh I see. Actually no. Just added some features like automatic filament load and unload.
@@3DPrintSOS thanks man youre awesome
Wait… is the glass bed supposed to bed shiny side up??
You can try both sides. I personally like the glass side. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS no adhesion issues? I would like the smoother finish
I use bare glass on all my machines that I continuously print on. Just make sure it’s super clean. Isopropyl works great.
hey man. can you help me? i change the plastic cover off hot end to a version of thingiverse and after that the printer just scrub the table and dont print well anymore. just the test printes. the bed its leved well. i dont know what happend. the new cover hit the bed. its not well done. i put he older cover on but do the same. before that it print so well litery out of the box. i just change thinks in cura. i love the printer. im novice at this yes but before its so nice. now i dont know what to do. please help me (sorry for my english btw) great channel man
If it’s doing it even with the stock cover, have you changed the z offset settings? Maybe they need to be set at zero. Is it just the cover hitting or the nozzle as well?
@@3DPrintSOS i do not change it i think. but i will see if its something wrong at the offsets. just the nozzle hit the bed. do you think its best do replace it? it rub for a wile it all the test i do. thanks for the awser man. keep up with the good job
If the nozzle is rubbing, you just need to tighten the bed leveling bolts on all 4 corners and level it again.
What are advantages for PETG ?
PETG is has a hair more flex, so some consider it better for impacts. In my opinion it’s most important property is being able to handle higher heat. The stuff can sit outside muuuuch longer without warming or melting like pla.
Do you have a profile for pla+ ?
I use the regular pla profile and it prints flawless
Thanks
great!!!!
I replaced the heat break in my ender 3 pro with this one.
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07JD2S4GK/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?smid=AJUKUXZVPYM6H&psc=1
In effect making it like an all metal hotend. Print PET-G exclusively. Will see if this will fit the aquila.
Nice. Let me know how it works. I’ve tried one of those on my Ender and want able to get clean prints afterwards. Especially with pla.
I installed the new heart break (fit perfectly) and ran a bunch of PET-G through it with absolutely no issues. I needed to shorten the retraction from 6mm to 3mm to avoid possible clogging issues.
Good to know! Thanks for the update.
My PLA and PLA+ stick to my build plate like they are glued on with super glue. Hot plate, cool plate, cold plate it does not matter I have ruined prints they are stuck so hard. Any suggestions I have cleaned the plate many times but nothing works.
Might there be another print bed option for the Aquila? like a flexable one? Also saw some reviews about flipping it over is that an option?
Try flipping the plate over first since that’s free. This is a good problem to have though. Waaaay more people can’t get theirs to stick. You can try putting the plate and the print in the freezer. But the plate has to be room temp. Also you can buy any Ender 3 print plate and it would work with the Aquila. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS found you saying to flip the plate (I thought I remember that you said that) in your video on live leveling.. trying that now. I have my copper PLA that just came in making your Extruder upgrade parts now. If the first round sticks hard I will try the freezer trick on the 2nd round of parts. Thanks again for all you do.
No problem. Hope you get it sorted!
Man I can't for the life of me get it to print correctly!
Sorry to hear it. PETG can be tricky. Have you tried my profile?
@@3DPrintSOS at work right now I'm gonna try it soon as I get home and I'll let you know my results! Thank you!
@@Haki1112 I had to use a glue stick otherwise it always moves or doesn't lay down. I started with hair spray to confirm it was my issue and then ran out to the dollar store.
Hmm. Have you tried the bare glass side with some isopropyl alcohol?
can give me your prusaslicer profile and the gcode for Aquila with Bltouch please
Sorry, I don’t use prusa slicer. I’ve been using Cura for years now. You can grab firmware on the official voxelab site if you want to add a BLTouch.
@@3DPrintSOS then you can give me a cura profile with bltouch and gcode please
Should be attached here: How to get slicing & printing with the Voxelab Aquila 3D Printer using Cura.
@@3DPrintSOS I have a problem is that I start a print
and my bltouch starts to do the leveling and when it ends the test does not start my printing you can help me please I have a gcode problem in my cura profile
I’m afraid I literally have zero BLTouch experience. Ive stayed away from them for all these years. Haha