Top 5 Frequently Asked Questions about the Voxelab Aquila 3D Printer
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 17 авг 2024
- You guys have been asking lots of great questions and in this video I address the top 5 that have been asked in the comments, on my Instagram, and even email. Hope this helps shed some light on what others in the community are wondering about this printer.
LINKS:
Download Cura here: ultimaker.com/...
My Voxelab Aquila PLA Profile: www.3dprintsos...
3DBenchy: www.thingivers...
Buy a Voxelab Aquila: amzn.to/2Pjv3KE
My designs and product suggestions: linktr.ee/3DPr... 
Наука
1:01 why can't I print this STL file
2:53 why is my print not sticking to the bed
5:36 what can I do if my print looks sloppy
7:52 how can I print faster without sacrificing quality.
10:30 what are the best upgrades
Pinned ;)
How small of a part is possible with this printer?
Does it accept various size filaments?
Depending on what nozzle that is installed on the machine. It can print pretty small with the right settings. It takes only 1.75mm filament.
Should I go for Biju b1 or aquila
Never heard of a Biju. So, I can’t compare the two. But the Aquila and its price to performance is great.
I am a 73 year young man. My son got me one of these for Father’s Day and had to wait until now to put it together and get started. Thank you for these videos.
What a great gift. Glad I could help.
LOL and I thought I was too late in my 56’s … it looks like we’re in the same team 👍🏻 cool 😎
Here i am being 13
Never too soon or too late!
Nice mate
Literally the only video I could find to explain why I couldn’t print for the first time. THANK YOU!!!!!
Hey, one last thing. You should do a video on loading filament mid-print. For those times where you're running out of filament before the print is done.
This is an art form in itself haha
@@3DPrintSOS Agreed. Timing is EVRYTHING while doing a feed on a live project. I have done this several times when my filament broke mid print ( and I have only been at this for a month ).
My most significant upgrade was replacing the plastic extruder to a metal one. Other printed "upgrades" are for convenience and vibration mitigation on my Ender 3 which is very similar to this printer.
Major appreciation to the work you’re putting into your videos! Incredibly informational and super useful to figuring out all the little hang ups I’m running into
Someone’s gotta do it! ;)
The blogger’s narration is very truthful and pertinent 👍
Thanks! I had to take out the thesaurus for that! :)
Just got my Aquila X2 in today for my sons 12th birthday. Idk who’s more excited, me or him 😂😂
I think we all who it’s ACTUALLY for. ;)
First time looking at 3d printers, getting ready to dive in. Your vids have answered a bulk of my questions, they are very well thought out and easy to follow. Thank you for your work in producing these!
Please do a video on Z offset. Love your videos, keep up the great info!
well done! I like the way you teach no big story just point to point on topic. And you know from you experience what is important. I will be watching your videos thank you.
Appreciate that Neil. Glad you enjoyed it.
I have one of these coming can’t wait thanks for the clear and simple suggestions
Great video for us newbies! Thank you.
YUGE THANK YOU!!!!! PRINTING MY PROTOTYPE!!!
I love the way you deliver on "fixing and improving the issues"
You ACTUALLY addressed the bed leveling with the adjustment of the Z home switch which 10 others neglected to mention. Definitely following your channel.
I would like to recommend you put a website together to offer your choice of filaments and offer downloads ect.
I NOTICED amp draw down on my machine when plugged into a shared circuit with other appliances. it would be noted that there are thermocouples that keep it regulated but shutting down extra things on the \same circuit would be a good idea.
ALSO sorry for the caps but very excited and PUMPED!!!!!!
LAST CAPS....... PLEASE do a excel sheet with all things you think are important for redundancy in printing. for instance I sometimes on the fly adjust my bed temp or nozzle temp different from settings when starting. I think it would be nice to have collected notes in a binder to refer back to how things ran a\so the next time they are run they can be adjusted....I love consistency and that would be super cool.... if you have a website you can make a bit of money I would sign up. I like that way you help all these people.
if you need anything machined let me know. I would like to pay it forward as well.
THANK YOU !!!!!!! last cap I promise!
Love the caps. Haha. Thanks for the love.
3d print sos ty very much you helped me get up and running. As i said love your videos your the best yet that i seen who actually breaks it down for beginners to actually enjoy 3d printing....👋👋👋👋🎉🎉🎉🎉✌✌✌❤❤
Glad I could help :)
I guess you changed you mind about those upgrades lol. Glad you did though, I’m getting a lot out of your content for the Aquila.
Nah. I only change things when something breaks. ;) The printer is still very close to stock.
@@3DPrintSOS fair enough. I am noticing some issues with under extruding and retraction when it comes to the finer details so I have ordered a direct drive and all metal hot end. I am going to push this thing to its limit before I attach those though. I want to see what I can do on its own. Also picked up at raspberry pi and a cheap WebCam so I can learn how to use those.
Pushing it stock until something goes is the best way. Because then you learn the most. Not all upgrades are upgrades. For example a direct drive will introduce its own issues you’ll have to battle. So you’re taking the right approach. :)
These were awesome tips! Thanks, loving all your videos as a complete newbie to 3D printing these are perfect!
Glad you’re finding them useful!
Thank you for the leveling tips. New to 3d printing and had no idea.
Glad I could help!
Thanks for the information, still have mine in the box !!😊😊 still learning 360 to have a cool thing to print !!
For PLA, on any printer, I go for 60ºC bed and the print always (mean 100% of the time) stick to it if the bed is correctly leveled, and results are more than fine 🤘🏼😎
Thanks for the info!! l received this printer from my uncle. I can't wait until I do my first successful print!
Awesome. Great gift!
thank you for all of your videos on this printer. im just getting interested into 3d printing and your videos have been very helpful. keep up the good work.
Thank you! Glad you’re finding them entertaining.
Voxelab allows .01 increments of adjustment on the Z axis on the fly. It’s awesome to dial it in.
Fingers crossed i can figure this thing out . This is an addition to our flash forge dreamer and longer orange printer. This seems a little more complex than the dreamer. Great videos clear information.
Once it’s all together, you should be golden. :)
you should do a video on the voxelab printing software. I was using cura and that was Included on the SD card they sent me. I think i saw a youtube video on the voxelab softwear and thought its made for this printer maybe its better. I been using the default setting and my prints are better.
Bought one after watching your review, I am really pleased to get some pretty decent prints straight out of the box by watching your tips 👍 Do you think swapping the bed springs with solid type mounts are a good upgrade?
This printer is great, already had 4 friends contemplate getting one after seeing it in action when they come over. They expect me to tell them like 500 bucks lol wonder how many I can convince to buy it 😆
Very clear and concise information, thank you!
Thanks Ranae. Glad I could help.
Also you should join the Facebook Voxelab group! Good bunch of people there
I’mi on there. Fedor Sosnin ;)
I just got mine 12 hours ago. I have been able to print 3 things. Now I want to buy 3 more 3d printers and a longer desk. 🤣
Haha. And this is the beginning of the end of free space. Haha
I love the glue stick. Does hold the material better. On my print cards , micro sd, I have a bed leveling g code model. I bed level with that g code about once a month. I print almost every day.
Nice
How does the bed leveling with gcode work?
AMEN Brother! I went nuts upgrading my Ender 3 Pro and it made things worse. I had to undo a lot of it. I only kept my toolbox and BLTouch.
Yessir. Been there. Wish more would listen. :)
Have the Ender 3 Original... noisy AF when I first got it as the steppers are mounted directly to the metal frame and the drivers being so noisy, made the whole metal frame "sing"!!!😳...added stepper motor dampers to quiet it down!
Is there any way you could please please please do a showcase on the hero me 6 assembly for the aquila with different hotends? that would be super helpful for everyone! By that I obviously mean me! Thanks!
True, but I got my own design to showcase soon. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS freaking awesome!
Maybe you should make a video on lithophanes. A lot of fun to do. Relatively easy to do.
just got a hardened steel nozel as well as a capricorn tube. also really excited to print with this new gold filament
Kyle Smith nice! Don’t forget with a steel nozzle you might have to go up a few degrees on the nozzle.
Hi Kyle, any chance you could link the nozzle and tube you mentioned? I'm going to start with PLA, but I have some things I want to do in carbon fiber and it sounds like I need a hardened nozzle, but I'm pretty new to this. I have no idea how to figure out what is compatible or not.
@@DrCognitive I know Im not Kyle, but here is the PTFE I highly recommend: amzn.to/3iKVK5q I love it because it goes all the way up to 300c! As fast as nozzle goes, Zodiac makes the best nozzles. Worth the investment if you ask me. :)
@@3DPrintSOS also i agree zodiac is great from the research ive done but for myself i ended up picking up some cheap dawnblades
I use the Capricorn tubing as part of the hot end fix. Otherwise I use the standard tubing . I have an Ender 3 pro and I think all Ender 3s get hot end creep. One of those fixes for the creep involves Capricorn tubing.
Another thing to note. If your prints fall off the printer, reduce the print speed to 65, it's a bit slower but it works better this way
Is there any way to replace the loud stock fans without any soldering?
You can always just twist the cables together and use some electrical tape. Should be ok.
Thankyou for all your videos of this machine, have you looked at printing nylon on it yet ?
Not on this machine. It would need a few mods right off the bat to do it at any kind of sustained level. I’d like to keep this one stock for a while since it’s printing so much better than expected in this config.
A first time buyer, and I don't think you should worry about "upgrades" and concentrate more on learning how to run a machine first.
Yeeeesssss
HEY 3DPrintSOS, I was wondering if I could send you a video of what my Voxelab Aquila is doing. I've been dealing with a problem for 3 months and can't find a reason or salutation.
Yeah. Hop into our discord and post it there. :)
Mine is coming this week and it is my first printer. I've watched all of your videos and wanted to say thanks. You mentioned that this is an Ender clone. So are the Extruder and the Z rod knobs that you used Ender 3 ones from Thingiverse or are they unique to the Aquila?
Thinking about getting my first one - excited but scared
@@tamaranewman2182 Exactly how I feel right now.
I Hope yours arrives functioning. !!
@@Island.dweller Me too. Sorry to hear about yours.
The toolbox and extruder knob is included on the sd card supplied with the printer
Thanks for all the great info! How often should a bed be leveled?
When I level my bed the knobs end up falling off mid print and the knobs are way loose and my prints stick way to much to the bed help thanks
Hmm that sounds like you need to add way more tension to the springs. They should be at least half way through their total squish. Then if you z limit switch becomes to far away for manual leveling, you can move it down some on the left of the machine.
Helpful video
I am sure I watched a video of yours where you outlined the improvements Voxelab made over the V2 but I cant find this video for the life of me, please help!
ruclips.net/video/jIL3Gwd8k0Y/видео.html :)
On my voxelab I keep getting message saying nozzle or bed temperature is low. How can I fix that?
Sounds like your thermistor is going bad. Common problem on these. Sometimes you can reseat it in the hotend.
My nozzle oozes without the extruded gear moving. What should I do about that?
That’s normal. When the nozzle is hot, the filament that’s in it melts and leaks out. If you don’t want it to retract or remove the filament
Btw thank you for all the help I got the printer cause of you and so far love it
That’s great to hear. Glad to help.
My learning curve was leveling. Level the bed was easy but the sweet spot for nozzle distance was and still is a challenge for me. Mine prints fine, Im just a perfectionist.
It’ll get easier and easier. You’ll be able to do it by eye soon. ;)
Do you know how to tell how many hours are on the printer? We are trying to figure it out for warranty purposes. During a print nothing is coming out of the extruder. We know it’s working though because when you auto load the filament it comes out of the extruder.
I don’t think there’s a baked in way without custom firmware. Are you able to print the files on the sd card?
I go to cura and slice it but it still does not show on my printer.
You have to add the printer manually.
Thanks for the continued great videos! The joint that holds the bowden tube to the extruder went out on me today - luckily there was 3 of the "M6 pneumatic joints" in the box with the printer so it was easy to get up and running again but now I do not have any spares. Are there any brands/stores you suggest buying replacements from?
And I guess as a follow up, are there any other parts you would suggest having on hand for quick replacements?
@@westernbitterfish you might be able to get these for Fastenal or Granger. if you are in a large city you can walk in and buy them. they are a standard part.
Well, took your advice and bought some cheap PLA or so I thought. It is sunlu SPLA it says to use hotter bed and head heats like 230c head and 80c bed. anyone mess with this stuff? ot is working with 210c and 80c so far. but it seams to not bridge very well? And noticed raft seams to work better with this stuff.
"Don't be afraid to flip that glass." Ah. Hahah. Hah.
:)
@@3DPrintSOS I didn't know you could adjust the Z-axis limit switch, but the last few prints have been *very* good to me, so I'm just not gonna touch anything unless I start seeing problems.
:-)
@@DarrinCalvinRoenfanz We out here learnin! Glad to hear its running smooth. If it aint broke, dont fix it. ;)
I have a question. My SD slot just stopped working. Is that a quick fix
Oh man. Hmm. Have you tried another sd? You probably have, but in case you haven’t, the cards are way more likely to fail.
Probably not a quick fix. You might have to resort using a cable to hook the machine up or something like octoprint on an Android or raspberry pi if you can’t get the slot to work.
ive been researching 3dn printers for a few months now on a budget and im really torn between the aquila and an ender 3. Its a hard decision!
It is, I get it. Both have their strengths and weaknesses. In my opinion, getting an Aquila is a bit better. You get more for your money. It does have its issues, like fans dying and potential extruder issues, but if you set aside 20 dollars for those fixes as they happen, you will still have a better machine.
I am a new to 3D printing (less than a week!) and running into issues - perhaps it help your other subscribers as well! My print gets stuck to nozzle after just few minutes? Not able to figure out what is happening.
Very common issue. It can be one of a few things but I would clean the bed again and again with isopropyl alcohol, get it up to 75 degrees, and when you start the print keep bringing the bed up slowly one corner at a time until the print sticks. Then you can restart the print if you need once you live leveled the bed.
I just ordered the Voxelab Aquila from Amazon on a flash deal for $144, can you use the dual z axis kit for the ender 3 on this machine as well?
Awesome deal. I’m not sure exactly, but I believe so.
At $8 for 5 ft of PTFE tubing, instead of worrying about it, why not just change it out 4 times a year if printing regularly? 30 second fix during a filament change. There's no need for stiffer springs, just tighten the stock springs more and drop the Z axis limit switch to put them in range of 1/16" movement to level.
For people like you and me, these swaps are easy. But for some, it’s very complicated and a major hassle.
As for the stock springs, you can only go so tight until you start to hit the y axis motor. Some of these machines come bent bed carriages and getting the spring tension can be a pain for beginners. Aftermarket springs are not only stiffer, they are taller. They have been amazing on most of my machines. Them and silicone mounts as well. They are both great.
Solid advice, appreciate the input.
@@3DPrintSOS If I needed taller springs, I would suggest use of that oldest of devices: a washer.
Smart
Thank you for the great insight on 3D printer! I am a newbie and just got my Aquila X2 N32. I leveled it and thought it was all good but after a few layers the nozzle drags my print and destroys, I thought it was the leveling, but I have a feeling it is something else. Do you have any pointers to fix this issue? Thanks in advance!
Are you printing something from the SD or self sliced?
@@3DPrintSOS thanks for the reply! I am printing off an SD card
One of the presets right? Otherwise it could be a layer hight issue. Or maybe something on the z axis is binding. Make sure you can move the z upward via the menu.
@@3DPrintSOS yes, it is a preset!
Hmm ok. Strange. Let me know if you can move it up and down via the menu
Do you have the Aquila X3 yet ? There’s zero reviews on RUclips.
Nope. They didn’t want to send me one from I understand.
@@3DPrintSOS that’s a shame since they have them on Amazon at nearly the same price point with auto bed mesh. I’m going to buy one tonight just because the price is so close to the x2. I hope it’s at least as good as that.
Good evening my friend. What would you recommend for a laptop to run the cura program think the tomson 2gb ddr3. With 3w gb eMMC with a 2 terribyte external drive?????
You’d have to look up Curas minimum specs but I’d think you need a graphics card capable of OpenGL and likely more ram then 2gb.
My problem is that my printer is that my printer is not detecting the filament
Does the printer function if you turn the filament sensor off in the menu?
I am new to 3D printing and my Question is, Why does the printer cool down when I pause print and change filament, is there a setting on the Voxelab Aquila
Voxelab Aquila filament runout sensor
I’ve just got a Aquila D1 machine and after sorting out teething problems like Cura having the wrong start point, I am stumped on my first print as I have filament stuck in the extruder feed, t think the top has been spread while trying to feed a new filament. How can I remove it as not protruding either end. Thanks in advance. One day hopefully soon, I will actually print something!
Any suggestions on how to get the menu screen to come on? I power on the printer and only have Voxelab on the display, no menu options. I’ve left it on for up to 30 minutes with no change.
🤔 Ive diffidently never had that happen. Did you do a firmware update previously?
I have two Aquila Pro 3D printers, yesterday I connected them to my WiFi and the firmware updated, both are now running software version v1.4.6-2.3-5.0.3-1.0.0, now the printers do not print properly, after the raft is printed the extruder is lifted above the print then lowered again, this happens over and over and the result is the print fails with just a mess of filament. Is there anyway I can roll back the firmware?
How to adjust the settings to make a print in the center of the pad?
Which model aquila you can recommend ??? Cheers from Poland.
The original is the best bang for the buck in my opinion.
Hey I have a question do you know what materials I can print with vocalab Aquila m
Check out all the materials videos on my channel. The Aquila can print Pla, PETG, abs, nylon, TPU, Carbon filaments, wood, glow in the dark, etc. you just need to change the nozzle and ptfe tube.
Bought the X2 model at beginning of Jan'22. Has been printing perfectly until two weeks later, when for unknown reason, clips holding glass bed on were both pushed off and glass bed was sent flying of the printer and onto the floor. Put glass bed back on and auto homing has failed and makes grinding noises. Print was no where near the clips so no idea as to why and what has gone wrong. Do I return yet another 3D printer or is it easily repairable?
No, dont return it. This happened because of settings. Not because of clips. I have had this happen before. If your settings aren’t right, or the printer is under moving air/vents/fan, the prints can cool too fast and curl on the edges. Then then the hotend clips the curled plastic, it can push a print over. In your case the print was sticking well to the build plate and it flung the whole plate off. Been there. But it’s not worth a return. Itll happen on any machine with the wrong settings. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS Found out why it was not auto homing; one of the clips had found it self underneath the bed and was stopping the bed going fully back against the y-axis trip switch.
Would be very interested in what settings you or other people are using for their X2 machine, as I obtained mine from another video on RUclips, and am using Cura.
Thank you.
how to put cable in control panel in back, plate all metal one button, switch I' looked has 3 ports on it
If the printer is open source, what program and repository can I use to modify the voxelab Aquila x2 firmware?
Might you provide some links to cheap PLA and ABS? Thanks
Check out my LinkTree link, I post links there of my fav brands. However, I've never used ABS.
Great video as always. Im always so excited to print i rush leveling the bed but like you said its so important I end up printing the first layer 3 or 4 times cause it just won't stick or the details just turn into a big ball of pla. Just cause I got a roll coming in, have u used petg on this printer? And if so would u mind sharing the best temps u used? Thanks brotha God bless
I know it’s exciting. But you’ll get it. A few more practice runs and you got it. :)
I haven’t printed PETG with this one. I would suggest getting a ptfe tube that can handle higher temps. Like this: amzn.to/36mGgjl then you can crank the hotend to 230 and bed to 80.
Yeah you definitely wanna take your time leveling, I was dumb and didnt lower the bed enough when leveling so when I went to the back right side from the front right it gave me a nice long scratch in my build plate
Been there before. Haha. That’s why I’m trying to help out. Haha.
My voxelab doesn't stick I leveled it correctly but the pls just curls I think the bed is to low down so I might try that or maybe my temprature is to low 200 nozzle and 60 for the bed I'm not sure please help I'm a beginner by the way
Hey. Try to get the springs compressed lower and bring the z stop down lower so the hot end can reach your newly lowered bed. This will help the bed stay more level. It’s a good place to start. Also try 70 on the bed. Even 75 would be safe to try.
When shutting down for the night, should you unload any filament, or is it safe to cool down and power off?
Great question! I leave my filament in and just let it all cool. No worries there.
when useing glue try to use something to gently ge tthat glue off because the glue rips that coating right off
Thanks for the videos on this printer.
What types of filaments can be used with it?
So far I’ve printed pla, pla +, PETG, TPU, and abs. Have a list of others to try. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS thanks for the reply.
From your experience, what is the strongest (break resistant) out of those materials?
Pla+. PETG has a hair more flex, so if that’s useful, then that might be better. Just depends. Excited to try nylon though.
@@3DPrintSOS looking forward to knowing how it goes.
Hey do you know if this printer can be converted to direct drive ?
As soon as I receive mine next week , I am printing out a Z- AXIS stepper motor mount , As it has the Ender 3 clone design . Ender 3 would lose up and ruin the print as got pass the 4 to 5 mm height above the Print Bed surface . , And the Knobs you Pointed out in this video . :)
I’ve printed some taller stuff on this printer and I gotta say that this has the smoothest z out of all the printers I’ve owned. I wouldn’t mess with it. Haha. ;) but the knobs, are a must. For sure.
I was wondering what is with the bed temperature or nozzle too low error how do I fix it?
I was asking about some information on how to setup a run-out sensor for this 3D printer any help would be fine thank you
It should be plug and play from what I understand. I’ll have to give it a try one of these days!
Hi when I print the tool box the corners are warping. What are the cause of that?
Thanks
Probably need to bump the bed temp up by 5 and maybe clean and relevel bed.
How to fix it from freezing
Give me a bit more details
Where do you get the z-rod knob print? I would like to add this for the Aquila.
On my Thingiverse. ;) www.thingiverse.com/thing:3797798
@@3DPrintSOS No idea why I did not see that earlier! Thanks
It’s all good. :)
Great series. I see you printed your logo on the Voxelab, making different layers different colors by pausing and canning filaments. I have tried the CURA extension to change filament and it does not work. What is the trick?
Do you have an h32 machine?
@@3DPrintSOS It is a friend's - new to FDM printing and I'm setting it up for her. She "thinks" it is G32 (not sure why she says that). The chipset is printed on the chip on the mother board - that is the only way to verify it, correct? BTW - Thanks for responding!
The printers have a sticker on the top of the case, on the front of the machine, just under the bed, on the left hand side of the machine. It should look like a chip and in it clearly say “N32” or “H32”. If you don’t have a sticker at all, it’s a G32 machine.
The reason I ask is because the H32 models have an issue with listening to pause command in Cura. Otherwise I use “pause at layer height”. That seems to work well for me.
@@3DPrintSOS G32 (no sticker). Odd because her printer has the box under the right side like your n/h32 printers in the video. So, the g32 didn't work with the CURA extension to change filament.
That’s strange. Latest firmware?
Have you by chance fogured out the calibration for the aquila?
Thanks for the useful info!! What's the latest firmware to use with no add ons?
I’d just stick with the stock stuff for a while. Unless you need something specific.
Any chance of a BL touch install guide soon? love the content very tempted to pick one of these machines up.
I personally don’t like auto levelers, but if I ever get my hands on one, I’d do a video just to help out.
K.I.S.S.
well done!
Does this 3d printer use Gcode file only?
Yep. Most of not all 3d printers in this genre use gcode
I leveled everything out but it’s saying filament not detected.. I waited till it warmed up, am I doing something wrong
Hey, not sure how I missed this comment. Hope you got it sorted. But this is just a setting for "filament detection" being ON when you dont have a sensor. Just turn it off and you should be good.
Got mine today! :)
I may be doing something wrong. It’s my first time with a 3 D printer
Best thing you can do is ask questions.
Hi again, another great video. We unboxed and built ours this week, but due to time, have not operated it for the first time yet. The Z axis seems very tight and having watched your video, I can see it is adjustable, but you also mentioned oil / grease? Does the threaded bar need to be lubricated at all? Thanks again. Nige
Awesome. Congrats on the printer. Yes, some grease on the bar would be great.
@@3DPrintSOS First test print completed successfully. I doubt we would have managed it without your advice on this channel. Thanks! Now on to some creative stuff...! Nige
Aw yeah! Glad you got it goin. :)
can't say I agree with cheap pla, they are not all created equal, sometimes cheap pla can actually CAUSE the issues you may have with printing, not saying go out and buy expensive PLA but look up some good brands. Also of note to others learning 3D printing, a lot of the advise given isn't all specific to this printer and can be applied to other printers as well other then the stuff he did talk about adjusting specific things on this printer itself.
I have the Ender 5 at moment but was looking at getting a second one and this is most likely going to be the one I'm going to be getting.
Can’t argue that @llothos. I’ve had luck with bottom dollar pla but It not all created equal, that’s why it’s bottom dollar. So I get it.
Yeah, this printer is still an easy recommend after 6 months.
@@3DPrintSOS My wife and I were thinking of starting up selling some of my prints now and having that second printer would really help. Ultimately I would love to get a prusa with the multi filament addon (or something equivalent at least) but given the cost that won't be for a long time to get to that point.
I have a few friends with Prusa Minis and they all agree they are amazing machines. Consultant and solid. Might be worth the look if you don’t need a large print plate.
so im not able to get any files to show up from the sd card to print? i thought maybe a formatting issue but it prints the test models from the same card. its the one that came with it. could really use the help i think its something simple that im overlooking.
Are you using Cura to slice the files? If it’s reading the sample files, it should read gcode that you put on there
@@3DPrintSOS i am using cura but i just realized that i didnt have the correct printer selected in the cura software so i guess it just wasnt making it as gcode
Ah. That might be it. :)
Yeah. Its my first 3d printer and im realizing there is a learning curve. Love the videos though. They have been a tremendous help.
Yea there is! But once it clicks, it’s all second nature. Glad I could be helpful. :)
How do i change out the filaments mid roll, not in a print?
Several ways to do this. You can setup a pause at layer height via Cura, or you can use the pause setting in the menu. However, you have to be careful with the latter because if you move the z by accident, it will mess up your print. It will also remain hot so you could accidentally burn the print if you pause in a bad spot. You can also just try to feed it manually during the print.
@@3DPrintSOS i want to chance the filaments b4 i start a print
Oh. Oops. I misunderstood. Typically I just preheat the printer and pull the filament out. Then I put new filament in and keep pushing the filament through until the color is fully swapped.
@@3DPrintSOS thanks