Before I pick up any hobby/interest I like to soak up as much information I can before actually diving into it, and your videos are definitely top tier prime material for learning. You don’t over-explain things, but you also don’t skip over any important details that beginners should know about it. You definitely make it easy for us to pick up and I’m super grateful for that. Keep it up you’re helping a lot of people.
I'm so glad you're covering this printer! So many of the larger channels seem too heavily sponsored by the competition to look at this. I bought this based upon your videos and used your promo code. Thanks! Liked and subscribed 👍
Awesome. Yeah that’s probably true. They are also trying to cover a lot more because their audience is much much larger. For now, I’m really enjoying pushing this printer and sharing my experiences. :) thanks for your support.
Just finished. New to 3D printing. Printer was a gift. Was having lots of gummed up printing after several successful prints. Instructions easy to follow and, well, printer works perfectly again.
Just wanted to say thank you for all your videos. Every time I go to do an upgrade on my aquila I find you've already done a video covering the topic. It's walked me through every step. Thank you. Liked and subscribed.
Hi Aaron. When you “squish” that tube in-between the hotend like that, it prevents the issue of backing out slowly over time. Which creates a gap between the PTFE and the nozzle. That little cavity will cause sudden extruding issues and clogs. So this completely removes that issue from the picture.
Dude, thanks SO much for making these videos. Just picked up an Aquila in the Prime Day sale because of you. Love my Prusa Mini but this one is great for less than half the price. Keep up the good work! Your video quality is great and your instructions are awesome.
Swapped the tube and a metal extruder two weeks in. Made a good difference. Just got an assortment of nozzles today! Went with brass to see what mm size I like. Then going to get the carbide versions.
Brass will heat and cool much more quickly. Once warmed up, steel will hold heat better than brass, which should be good for 3D printing. I've ordered the steel nozzles to try. Good video and topic, Fedor. The hard science behind it is worth understanding.
The property relevant to quick heating or cooling is not thermal conductivity, but thermal diffusivity (e.g. how quickly a thermal difference will propagate through a material). Brass' thermal diffusivity is ~3.5 times that of hardened steel. Regarding retaining heat, the relevant property is volumetric specific heat (how much heat is retained for a given volume, since the nozzles are the same size). In this case, hardened steel's is around 17% higher. TL;DR you are right, but for the wrong reasons.
The reason for using hardened steel is the "hardened" term: you can print abrasive filaments without instantly ruining your nozzle (as would happen with a brass one).
Thank you so much for passing your knowledge on to us. I emailed you with a question about my new printer and you helped me get it printing correctly. Thank you so much and please keep posting the vids. Peace out. ✌
Interesting video, thanks! I have a nicely modded Ender 3 that I love and have now added the Aquila as a second printer. You cannot beat the Aquila price for what you get, i'll probably never buy another Ender 3.
It would be nice if you tell people they're going to have to bump up their printing temperature for all materials by 50C when they replace their brass nozzle with stainless steel. I spent a day trying to get my printer to extrude any material before I found a comment on the Prusa forums where someone had the same problem I was having. He was told that Prusa recommends bumping the temp as much at 50C (200 -> 250 for PLA for instance) when changing to a stainless nozzle because stainless steel doesn't transfer heat nearly as well as brass. The temp sensor measures the hotend not the nozzle, so to get your stainless nozzle to the same temp as your original brass nozzle, you have to turn up the temp.
You have been a great help in my 3D printing learning experiance and I have ordered fans and nozzles through your links and the flexible filement, keep putting out ther great Aquilla videos!
Great Video. I did the Hot end swap and put new PTFE tubing on my Aquila as well. This was after I remixed part of your Bowden block(Awesome job by the way!) so it has a tie down loop for cable management. Your videos have been great and helpful!
Yes. But doing it the way I did also solves the issue with the ptfe couplers allowing movement. Overtime, that movement gets larger, creating retraction issues and clogs that are hard to diagnose. So this method is like hitting two birds with one stone. ;)
Nice videos covering this printer. I just picked one up at a ridiculous low price.My 3rd customer return printer,for less than half price,complete just needing a few tweaks to work properly. A quick tip for vernier caliper usage...the thin blade that extends when you open the the jaws is used for depth measurements.
I'm still an amateur in all this, but as someone who frequently experiences major anxiety about whether he made the right decision in terms of hobbies, your channel seriously reassures me that I made the right choice by buying the Aquila as my first printer.
@@3DPrintSOS I just ordered a spool of yousu PETG after watching one of your other videos, soon as it arrives i'm gonna print the washer off and install this mod (along with some others) looking forward to getting more printing done once i move beyond the basic PLA i've been using.
Just got my aquila x2 yesterday. Got it running today. I put a metal dual gear extruder on right away. Everything else is bone stock. I printed out the printer test thing on the SD card and it looked fine but I broke it trying to just pull it off and I noticed that the layers didn't seem to stick together as well. I'm using a new roll of PLA I got also. I upped the hot end heat to 210 from the preprogramed 200 and I'm seeing what that does. I'm printing out the "tool box" that's on the SD card now. Looking forward to learning more. Sub'd to the channel.
Nice! Congrats on the new machine. Keep in mind that for a dual gear extruder, you need to recalibrate your esteps. From what I understand you cannot get the steps high enough on stock firmware for a dual gear extruder. That's why I always recommend sticking with stock or printing my block and lever from thingiverse. Unless, you dont mind going aftermarket firmware and calibrating steps, in which case, dual gear is definitely stronger.
@@3DPrintSOS OHHHH . I didn't know that. I guess I'll let this tool box finish and then look at doing that. I did see a video you had loaded about updating the machine to 3rd party firmware that opens up more settings. I assume I could do that in there? I don't see any real downside to loading a 3rd party if it plays well with everything. I don't really see a downside to it.
I will likely try inserting a short segment of borosilicate glass inside the hot end. Borosilicate is less conductive than metals and has a max working temp of around 400C or so. Might have to use silicone on the fitting thread to hold it and not crush/break the glass.
Using Capricorn Tubing Cutters To use the cutters, simply squeeze to open, and place the tubing in the groove, aligning the path of the blade with where you want to make the cut. Release the pressure on the blade, and allow it to come to rest on the tubing, so you can make sure it is in exactly the right spot. Now make sure the tubing aligned in the cutter, and squeeze it between your fingers and thumb. PTFE is very slippery, and it will want to slide out during the cut, resulting in an end that isn't square. You will be tempted to press slowly and carefully on the cutter, but the trick to getting a good cut is actually to squeeze fast, like using a stapler.
Whats the washer you drop first into the hotend? I have printed two of the washer you have in the description but the washer is way to big to fit into the little hole?? 8:16
Great video, thanks again for the great info, brother! I have been having some mad clogging issues as I have been using multiple materials very closely together. After taking things apart and looking closely I can see the exact issue you mention where the tube pulls away a bit and material gets in there. Anyway, I have the new tubing on order and will be getting this fixed asap. Thanks! PS - What was the music you were using in the video? Love it.
Awesome. That should solve it. I get all my music from “royalty free music” here on RUclips. I honestly don’t remember exactly. I have to dig around. Awesome. I love that this machine can do all this.
Ok,I need you to verify somethng for me. I did this mod when you first did it and I was just starting out using PLA. I knew then that I would eventually would want to do other filaments and now I want to do PETG. I have been told that I need to either get a new all metal hotend or all metal heatbreak due to off gasses. I use Capricorn XS that says it's rated for 300c,so I should be fine printing PETG right? Now if you have a suggestion on an all Metal Hotend for the original Aquila,I'm all for upgrading. 😁I have learned sooo much from your videos,thanks and keep them coming.
You could but it wouldnt serve the same purpose. The main reason for the spacer is to stop the PTFE tube from wiggling away from the nozzle and causing clogging. Not at issue on the extruder side.
Be careful replacing your oem nozzle with the hardened steel ones in the link above. I did a bunch of upgrades all at once (replace fans, added crtouch, replaced springs, replaced tubing, replaced nozzle) and I have not been able to geta single print to come out ever since. I had to slowly narrow it down until i finally i reverted back to the stock nozzle and everything prints great again. I returned the nozzles for a refund today and will order more replacement voxelab ones in case my current nozzle fails for some reason. Perhaps I got a bad batch or it looks like there may be multiple sellers on Amazon offering the item and the one I got was inferior quality.
Had to be a bad batch or a ptfe misalignment or gap. Unless your particular nozzle was off center or not drilled correctly. Not saying it’s not possible. Just rare.
I just wanted to chime in and share that I had the same experience. The nozzle was the culprit of my issues and once I replaced it with my stock one, all worked well again.
Maybe I'm crazy...or maybe I just missed something in the comment thread, but did you use two spacers? It looked like you dropped one in before inserting the PTFE tubing into the hotend?
@@3DPrintSOS No wories...it looked like you put something in there and I went back a bunch of times listening to see if you mentioned two...you didn't, but I thought I'd check. Your videos have been literally life-saving for my printer experience...I am only two weeks in and thanks to you and some other individuals, I haven't had to endure some of the learning curve lessons. Thanks immensely for what you do!
Thank you for all of your videos, they are a huge help!! My husband already want to upgrade to a new printer. What do you recommend? I’ll keep using the Aquila, but he wants something faster. Thanks!!
Hmm faster? I’m not sure honestly. All of my machines print around the Aquila speed. You can always go way faster with a larger nozzle. Even a .05 mm nozzle can cut the time of prints down by 40%
Hi, I have a doubt I can install the ender 3 hotend on my aquila. I have problems and I want to replace it along with its other accessories. I think they are the same voltage
Bought some more tubing and this time got a cutter with it and I think I maybe when I replaced the tubing the first time I didn't have it cut straight and the clip that holds the tubing wasn't actually secure on the hot end side so I imagine it was probably moving which would then cause the problems I was having but I still wanted to try this out and see how it does. I did this last night to mine (more to fix my printing issues then to be able to print at extreme temps) and I think I may be able to trust the printer to do more then an hour or two. Previously I would have nothing but issues with clogging and you could hear the extruder skipping (making a "thunking noise"), even on the shorter prints I'd have some issues but they would come up fairly OK but not as good as my ender 5. Previously if I printed anything that took longer then an hour or two the layers just wouldn't stick together and you could peel the layers or simply crush it in your hand with no issues. I'm going to do more testing tonight and think I have to tweak a couple settings as I was getting some stringing now. When I was researching purchasing another printer this one kept coming up and I was hearing nothing but great things about it and the price couldn't be beat. I got it all set up, worked fairly good on the few prints I tried so I tried longer prints, either 1 piece that was larger or several smaller pieces) and then I that's when started having issues galore, having to replace multiple nozzles and so I stopped trying to print for more then an hour or two at a time on this printer and stuck to my more reliable ender 5 but now I'm excited to see if I can trust this one to print for longer. Read online how lots of people were doing long 10-20 hour prints no issues but in the end I just didn't have to time to really dig into it and start pulling things apart again but then I came across this video a week or two ago and thought I would give it a shot and see. thanks for your great channel.
Glad to hear you decided to work on the machine and problem solve. The Ender 5 and the Aquila’s components are actually VERY similar. So by you learning and fixing this machine, you’ll know what to do when the Ender5 runs into them. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS Ender 5 was my first machine and have had for quite some time now and I've done a few mods over that time to it already and it has been relatively problem free. The Aquila on the other hand has given a lot of issues by comparison (with some of the same modifications made from what I learned from owning the ender 5). Last night I started up a print and ended up hearing the clunking noise again every so often, checked the nozzle and was able to clean it out but I have some spares still but may have to look at ordering some more soon just to have and I'm going to double check the leveling again today to make sure it's just not too close to bed.
Wonder why this is happening. How is your spring tension on the extruder lever? Maybe it’s just too loose? Are you making sure you’ll ptfe tube is being held flush to the nozzle by the coupler? Those can be a pain. I made a quick video. Check this one out: ruclips.net/user/shortsDbMdL1KFB8o?feature=share
I started printing with PTEG at 228 C and I came back to watch this video again because (I dont know if it is a placebo effect) but I started to get small headaches and lightheaded every time I printed with pteg. Did that ever happen to you when you started out 3d printing high temp filaments .I'm hoping its just placebo but I'm gonna confirm it when I change the tubing.
Woah, no that should t be happening. I would highly recommend some tubing if you’re going to be printing at that temp for a long time. It might be placebo but I’m no doctor and some people are sensitive to things other aren’t aren’t. So please stay safe. If it makes you feel that way, switch materials for sure.
i found, that pushing the fitting all the way to the other end (you mentioned that)worked really well...i think it's the way the fitting is made to trap in one direction. i did this modification as well(X2), with the unassembled unit. the brass fittings are hexagonal and a reduced end on a multi-blade drive worked to get it loose(the tool from Vox, slipped, before i used the nut driver.) the shroud on the 2 seems more tricky to remove, from my experience. nd, i cut a much longer length of the PTFE material and installed that, rather than the short piece....is ok, yes?
Hi Fedor! I installed the washer and blue PTFE when I first got my original Aquila, and the M6 coupler kept backing out, even though I tightened it as much as possible without crushing the PTFE liner inside the hotend. I noticed that the thread coating on the coupler is worn off, any idea what to use?
@@3DPrintSOS thank you! I have had mine for a little over a month. I figured I should probably order some of these and keep them on hand. This video is also super helpful. I enjoyed it and will be a long time viewer...
I wonder why you didn’t use the depth gauge on your caliper to measure the length for the tube? It’s the little skinny bit that sticks out the other end when you spread the caliper jaws
Mine has started to jam up at the hot end and just clicks at the extruder. When I pull the filament out it has a couple of blobs that stops you pulling it right out. I'm guessing this mod will fix my issue? Thanks for another great video.
Ouch. I would get things up to temp, then remove the heater block with the nozzle, turn the heat off, remove thermistor and heater cartridge and try to get the nozzle in a vise or vise grips. It should come off. If not, blocks are VERY cheap. :)
I need some help I bought voxelab Aquila but I'm having problems it would over Extrude filament when heating up and when it's prints gumming it up 😫 !! I need your advice in it and thanks.
What do you over extrude when heating up? A bit of ooze as the printer heats is normal. As the hotend gets hot, if there is plastic in the nozzle, it will drop out. No way to really stop that without taking filament out before hand. Usually things gum up because of a leveling issue. Check out my easy leveling video. It will help big time.
That very first washer you dropped in . wont it melt . And do i put it in same way as you did with top washer . just you didn't show what way goes in on and what sort type of washer . so if i print 2 washers drop first one same way round as top washer . . Great video , gonna be doing this next week ,
You could. But you’d bypass the entire fix. The point is to “squish” this piece of ptfe tube between the nozzle and top of the hotend. This prevents clogging caused by wiggle in the PTFE couplers.
Those amazon linked hardened nozzles are good to go? The reviews are horrible. Kind of hesitant to buy them even though I enjoy your videos and all the info you share about the voxelab.
Thanks for the video. I'll check out the harden steel nozzle! Also would you recommend a direct drive for the acquilla? New to 3d printing so I'm not sure if it's the way to go.
I love the idea of direct drive but I like the idea of keeping the moving hot end as light as possible more. Less weight means staying level longer, the motor work less, and more accuracy in general.
@@3DPrintSOS I finally got it in. I think some of the brim was still on. I also had my printer heated up the second time I tried and it fell right down. I don't know if that made any difference.
Yes, doing it this way helps eliminate the slop in between the ptfe tube and the nozzle. A critical spot that has molten filament there and can cause clogs if a gap develops. Two birds, one stone. It IS much simpler do to the whole line.
@@3DPrintSOS okay, after watching a second time, perhaps a third, I better understand what you're doing. You're trying to keep the PTFE tube from moving around inside the hot end. This setup allows one to use your printed washer to keep that piece from moving around. Makes perfect sense now
Wish I could. The company hasn’t responded after they sold out because of the video. I tried emailing, using their website form, looking for them on social...nothin. The Capricorn tubing is the next best bet.
I suspect disappearance of Tecboss might be due to their 300 degree rating for their PTFE tubing being dangerous. Capricorn is highly regarded, and they claim the XS version is somewhat more capable of withstanding deformation to 280C. There's a nice table of Safe Printing Temperatures at captubes.
Quick question, in your video, you added a printed washer below and above the captured Capricorn tubing. Please confirm that both printed washers are required.
my filament only comes out correctly when i manually hold it into the PETG tube, not sure what to do at this point. nozzle isn’t clogged already checked. Have eSun pla +.
I would say they are all “budget” machines until you are getting around $1,000. Check out the Prusa MK3 and MK3S if you want something out of the box that will likely last significantly longer than a standard “budget” machine. With that said, checkout some of the bigger RUclips channels. Some guys use really really expensive machines and have plenty of issues. The only difference is how much the replacement parts cost. 😂
Would it be OK (and possibly simpler) to replace all of the PTFE tube, rather than just cut off a small piece for the hot end? Really enjoying your series of videos on the Voxelab Aquila - I've just bought one!
Simple yes. But doing it this way solves the issue of the ptfe tube ontop of the hotend having a little bit of play which causes clogs when the ptfe moves away from the nozzle. This clamps it down literally eliminating that issue.
I would get an Aquila and an Ender Extender to make it a 400x400 print bed since I sometimes need to print larger things. I’d then put on a hotend and nozzle from Zodiac and be absolutely set.
Can I ask why you don't just replace the whole tube with the new one? Why use the 2 different ones? Super new to 3D printing. I have to order more pneumatic M6 fittings for mine because both of the ones it came with no longer hold the ptfe tube in place, even though its less than a week old. But since it wont hold the tube I cant print the washer you use, so can I just replace the whole clear tube with the new stuff, without using the washer?
You can totally do it without the washer and go all the way down. The reason for it though is sometimes during retractions there can be a bit of play between the nozzle and the ptfe tube. This causes clogs and all kinds of issues. This tube and washer eliminate that problem completely. ;)
No matter what I do the bed seems to lose its leveling after 1 print, i have measured and fine tuned everything that's recommended to no avail could the be the cheap springs on the bed
Is there a way to use a micro switch type filement run out sensor on my Aquilla s2 printer? I have had a Voxelab sensor on order for weeks now and no word on when it will get here. A friend gave me an Ender Sensor and i plugged it in, ,but it doesn't work, the LED shows it sees the filement , but the the print doesn't pause.
I just tried to install the hardened steel MK8 nozzles in your link and it destroyed my hot end. Def not the same threads but I do have the Aquila X2. Any info on nozzles that fit the X2 would be greatly appreciated.
Well that’s interesting. All Aquila’s and other clones of Enders run an MK8 nozzle. If it has a cone shape, it’s correct. There is also a v6 nozzle but that has different threads and a unique shape. Mk8 should be correct though.
@@3DPrintSOS I wish I could post pictures on here. The hardened steel nozzles appear to be the same thread dimension as the stock nozzle. BUT the threads are much sharper on the hardened steel whereas the brass threads are flattened if that makes any sense. Is there someplace I can post a picture of them side by side for you to see?
sorry this is a little of topic i am new to printing and my voxelab aquillax2 is now throwing a message that says" Note : the system doesn't detect the filament. please loading filament."is there any way i can remove the sensor and print with out it , Any help would be greatful
3 года назад+2
Will it be possible to remove the PTFE tube again?
Do you know exactly how long the ptfe tube has to be ? I purchased one. But it's 1m long I need to cut it to size. And does the tube have to reach the nozzle ?
Follow-on question: which side of the 'washer' goes up? One side has a raised ring....and wait.....I need 2 printed washers!? Watched it again from the beginning....printed another washer anyway....lol ugh.
@@3DPrintSOS Do I need to change the heat settings with the stainless nozzle? my prints are just delaminating now, the layers aren't sticking at all, to each other.
The mod is fine for keeping the PTFE tube from backing away from the nozzle, BUT even with your special brand tube I would not be telling people that they can use this to print up to 300C! PTFE is still releasing toxic fumes at 250C and higher. Get an all-metal hotend if you want to go above 250C, don't gamble with your health!
Not sure I agree Kristijan. This mod has been perfect on my other machines for a long time. But you are more than welcome to just replace the whole tube. I’ve done that many times as well, just have ptfe fittings. :)
Why? PETG can withstand quite a bit of heat. Plus, is ontop of the heat sink. It won’t ever get hot enough to melt. You guys don’t agree on what this fixes? I can’t stand ptfe fittings, they always have play and cause issues overtime. This eliminates play at the ptfe tube on the bottom, by the nozzle. Win win for me.
I was wondering why you did not just replace the entire tube. So, do I understand this? If you replace the whole tube with PTFE you improve the performance of the hot end with higher temps but introduce possible problem with the PTFE slipping or coming out. This mod is the best of both worlds?
Close. If you do this mod, you “squish” the ptfe tube to the nozzle. Without that, the fitting has a tiny bit of wiggle room. So when a gap develops at the nozzle and ptfe tube, you can have clogs. This mod helps eliminate that issue
Why did you over complicate it? They send a meter of ptfe tubing in the kit. Simply replace the entire feed tube from end to end and you don't need to measure one tiny piece so perfectly or make washers or anything. I dont understand using PLA to make this washer. Seems quite counterproductive to the entire exercise. What happens later when this all needs to be replaced? You wont be able to grab the tube like you showed with the old one. You will have to take off both ends each time?
You can do it how you like. No worries. If you use this method, like I mentioned in the video, you eliminate the play in the ptfe couplers and the possibly to clog your nozzle during retractions. Sometimes the ptfe couplers have wiggle room after a month or two and that play created gaps between the nozzle and ptfe. Causing clogs and inconsistent prints. This is a solution. Works exceptionally well.
@@3DPrintSOS Im confused. Isn't the heat damage to the stock tube why you would do this mod? It seems your way introduces a lot of guessing of where the alignment is happening between the nozzle and then again between the washer and top of your short tube. Relying on "squishing" simply bothers me a bit ;) Isnt that what the new tube does at the nozzle and with teeth on the fitting? In fact doesnt the shorter connection above the top of the washer give less leverage and stability?
I do this on all of my machines I print with. For me, it’s a must do mod if I’m keeping the stock hot end on. There are lots of vids on this out there. I believe it’s called “the Chep fix”
My 3d printer 's white teflon tube keeps getting pushed out of the metal bowden tube. It was not popping out before, any suggestions? It just pushes the white tube away and results in filament spooling in the air.
Classic ptfe coupler failure. Happens all the time unfortunately. That’s why I tell people to print and use my printable extruder block because it eliminates the ptfe coupler at the extruder. You can also buy a set of improved couplers if you can’t print. amzn.to/3kwjRaw
If you’ve tried it all, try reducing your cooling fan a bit. Try 50%. You can also delay it to turn on later, not just at layer 2. Sometimes layer 4 or so can work.
@ 6:50 you unscrewed that piece with ease. When I tried to unscrew mine, the frame holding the hot end was wanting to bend. I didn't want to dent the rails so I stopped but why is it so stuck?
@@3DPrintSOS ya it's over tightened or something, tried again this time rollers came outta railing while I was holding it too. Might of damaged something cuz now it's wobbling a lil bit.
Oh man! That’s not tight, that’s practically seized. The rollers can be adjusted, the bottom roller has an eccentric nut. Use the wrench that came with the printer to adjust it to make it right again. Although, it might be better to remove the whole hotend off the printer and try a vice and a wrench.
@@3DPrintSOS lol rite I adjusted the rollers and it is fine now, scared me that doing that knocked it out that much. Luckily no dents on the railing. I was thinking that too, that I would have to disassemble 😓
Not sure. I’ve never had luck with metals ones because they all use ptfe couplers. And they fail too often. I just print the “Fedorstruder” and never worry about it again. ;)
Can you please do a video on how to add the filament detection to aquila version 1? I found in the settings it has the option for filament detection, but I do not know how to configure it.
All you need is to add a very inexpensive filament detection sensor. It would work right away as long as you enable the feature in firmware. I’ll look into grabbing one. My X2 has one. Maybe I can borrow it from there.
Hi 3DPrintSOS. Great help videos for the Voxelab Aquila, I have a big problem with the connector one the extruder of this printer! I brought some good quality Clear PETG from my liked filament company "e Sun" their filament is very good indeed. But I found that the stiffness and twangy effect of the filament was far more than their normal PETG Blue or Black I brought before? Such that when trying to print a model with it at the right heat for the bed and the hot end, It was far too hard to get it to stick down even on a fully cleaned bed, the PTFE tube come out the connector with the filament pushing the tube away from the extruder? I ended up having to stop the print and of course use the printers auto unload feature. When the filament got to the extruder end connector it got stuck in the brass connector. I had to remove the connect and cut of about a foot length of filament to try to get out the filament out of the connector which was really jammed in at the screw end of it. The filament broke off level with the screw end but below the level of the plastic collar of the connector. How do I remove that tiny bit of filament stuck in the connector without damaging the collar? I can't use the other free connector that come with the printer because that one is not able to hold on the PTFE tube when printing it just undoes and the filament pushes the tube off the connector! Can you also post a video of how to step by step dismantle the extruder and use it's bolts and screws to build the printed new extruder lock you given us the code to print in PETG which we need to print flexible's etc. Thank you so much.
@@3DPrintSOS Hello there, Thanks for the advice. Is there a better connector I could replace it with that I can buy on Amazon UK site? It is a shame that connectors are not better made to allow for the stresses placed on them at the extruder end of 3D printers? I hope you can get around to doing the help video about how to dis-mantle the extruder and use the bolts and parts to built the printed PETG extruder block you designed that we need for the flexible etc. filaments soon thank you again 8 )
Ok I'm sold, did you get anywhere with the UK afilate links, I feel bad if I'm getting stuff on your recommendation but not getting anything out of Amazon for it
after watching some of your videos i'm quiet interessted in buying the Aquila as my first 3d printer. but i was wondering, because i didn't seem to find it anywhere, the powersupply... is it a meanwell or a noname?
Because having the fitting hold a piece down inside the hotend prevents a gap from forming between the tube and the nozzle. Stopping clogs and stringing.
I’m having issues with the layers being printed on top of my supports being of really poor quality and messy, is this because of layer height or another issue, I’m quite confused.
Looks like they’ve sold out. I messaged them to see if they will have more stock soon. In the meantime, Capricorn is the next best thing. amzn.to/3s5B4tF
Hey Fedor I decided to do this mod today. I made a mistake using a PLA printed spacer, my heatsink seems to reach temperatures at the top that can make pla melt. Maybe it's the new fan I installed not moving enough air causing heat creep. Anyhow, I was wondering if there is a 3rd party spacer part I could buy that is more heat resistant, or even stack some teflon washers in there instead?
Hmm. It shouldn’t be getting THAT hot up there. How long was the print? PETG is definitely the way to go with these spacers. Or abs or nylon. Sadly, I don’t know of any that would just drop in, without printing one that is.
@@3DPrintSOS 48 hour print. For now I just took a longer section of the capricorn tubing and ran it from the extruder to the nozzle. I have some PETG on the way to print a new spacer and retry the mod. I was surprised it got that hot too so far up the heatsink, it must be the new 40mm fan I added not pushing enough air on those longer prints.
Why not use the PTFE tube all the way from the entrance of the filament to the nozzle?, Is required to have a cut between the nozzle tube and the rest for some reason?
Only because this helps solve another issue as I mentioned. It stops the movement between the nozzle and ptfe tube. That play can create clogs and other retraction issues.
@@3DPrintSOS Yes I got it, It would be possible to just put a good fittings to avoid that movement?. Btw I'm waiting for my Aquila I ordered after having an issue with the Neptune2, your videos are great man. Thanks
@@3DPrintSOS I got mi Aquila and it works great. I've made a Z axis guide for the rod. www.thingiverse.com/thing:4912947 is the only mod I have done for now
You’d have to compile it yourself. There are settings for Max. You have to tell it to be 15deg higher. So if you want the Max to be 300, you’d set 315 as Max in Marlin and compile.
really dont recommend using PLA as a ferrule crimp on your PTFE tube in a pneumatic fitting simply bc if you develop heat creep youre going to fuck up your hot end, and if you dont, well... you arent actually crimping the PLA, the pneumatic fitting uses barbs to hold the tube in place. It doesnt crimp. Just buy a compression fitting. its literally $14 and does the same exact job but is actually designed for it. On top of that get a bi metal heatbreak from slice engineering. You will thank me later, especially if you are trying to print higher temp filaments. [C-E model for ender 3 and its clones. Use slices model compatibility checker] on top of that I recommend not wasting money on hardened steel nozzles unless youre printing things that require higher temps than PETG. Which you really shouldnt be doing unless you have an enclosure to begin with depending on the polymer composition.
I partially agree with you but hey, to each their own. If you get enough heatcreep all the way at the top of your hotend, you have other issues to worry about. And yes, you should only need a steel nozzle if you are going to print abrasives, not just hotter filaments.
Before I pick up any hobby/interest I like to soak up as much information I can before actually diving into it, and your videos are definitely top tier prime material for learning. You don’t over-explain things, but you also don’t skip over any important details that beginners should know about it. You definitely make it easy for us to pick up and I’m super grateful for that. Keep it up you’re helping a lot of people.
Thank you! That’s really the goal here, explain without overdoing it. :)
I'm so glad you're covering this printer! So many of the larger channels seem too heavily sponsored by the competition to look at this. I bought this based upon your videos and used your promo code. Thanks! Liked and subscribed 👍
Awesome. Yeah that’s probably true. They are also trying to cover a lot more because their audience is much much larger. For now, I’m really enjoying pushing this printer and sharing my experiences. :) thanks for your support.
Did all of this to my Aquila and added the CR touch. What a difference. Thanks for your videos.
Awesome. Glad I could help.
Just finished. New to 3D printing. Printer was a gift. Was having lots of gummed up printing after several successful prints. Instructions easy to follow and, well, printer works perfectly again.
Awesome. Glad to hear it.
Just wanted to say thank you for all your videos. Every time I go to do an upgrade on my aquila I find you've already done a video covering the topic. It's walked me through every step. Thank you. Liked and subscribed.
Appreciate that. Glad I could help.
I'm not ready for this yet. Just made my first print last night and I'm still getting that hang of it.
I just found your channel because I am going to be buying this 3d printer and your videos have been very helpful.
Hi Aaron. When you “squish” that tube in-between the hotend like that, it prevents the issue of backing out slowly over time. Which creates a gap between the PTFE and the nozzle. That little cavity will cause sudden extruding issues and clogs. So this completely removes that issue from the picture.
If I used the direct drive print that you did would I need to do this or would that negate the need?
Dude, thanks SO much for making these videos. Just picked up an Aquila in the Prime Day sale because of you. Love my Prusa Mini but this one is great for less than half the price. Keep up the good work! Your video quality is great and your instructions are awesome.
Really appreciate that. Glad I could help.
Swapped the tube and a metal extruder two weeks in. Made a good difference.
Just got an assortment of nozzles today! Went with brass to see what mm size I like. Then going to get the carbide versions.
Check out zodiac. It’s next level.
@@3DPrintSOS Looked on their site, any ETA on when they’ll be available to us?
Brass will heat and cool much more quickly. Once warmed up, steel will hold heat better than brass, which should be good for 3D printing. I've ordered the steel nozzles to try. Good video and topic, Fedor. The hard science behind it is worth understanding.
There’s gotta be a reason why the “high end” nozzle companies use steel. ;)
The property relevant to quick heating or cooling is not thermal conductivity, but thermal diffusivity (e.g. how quickly a thermal difference will propagate through a material). Brass' thermal diffusivity is ~3.5 times that of hardened steel.
Regarding retaining heat, the relevant property is volumetric specific heat (how much heat is retained for a given volume, since the nozzles are the same size). In this case, hardened steel's is around 17% higher.
TL;DR you are right, but for the wrong reasons.
The reason for using hardened steel is the "hardened" term: you can print abrasive filaments without instantly ruining your nozzle (as would happen with a brass one).
Yes, this is really the main reason for me personally. Brass nozzles get worn out fast when you print with abrasives like GITD or Wood. :)
@@mariohernandez1111 Story of my life!
Well done. I've been messing around with my FLSun Q5 this week, but this mod is next up for the Aquila. Thanks!
Good timing. ;)
Thank you so much for passing your knowledge on to us. I emailed you with a question about my new printer and you helped me get it printing correctly. Thank you so much and please keep posting the vids. Peace out. ✌
Anytime! I’ve been enjoying helping others.
Interesting video, thanks! I have a nicely modded Ender 3 that I love and have now added the Aquila as a second printer. You cannot beat the Aquila price for what you get, i'll probably never buy another Ender 3.
Same same. :)
Dude you save me a lot of time and headache. New to 3d printing by a couple of months, though no stranger to 3d graphics.
:)
It would be nice if you tell people they're going to have to bump up their printing temperature for all materials by 50C when they replace their brass nozzle with stainless steel. I spent a day trying to get my printer to extrude any material before I found a comment on the Prusa forums where someone had the same problem I was having. He was told that Prusa recommends bumping the temp as much at 50C (200 -> 250 for PLA for instance) when changing to a stainless nozzle because stainless steel doesn't transfer heat nearly as well as brass. The temp sensor measures the hotend not the nozzle, so to get your stainless nozzle to the same temp as your original brass nozzle, you have to turn up the temp.
50c! Maybe 5-10 Max. 50c is extreme and definitely not typical.
Hell boy that little trick was badder than hell!
;)
Been loving this printer from the first day. Printing silk pla right now after using glow in the dark for a month now
Nice! You must have gotten a GITD that want too abrasive. Mine chewed through my nozzles.
You have been a great help in my 3D printing learning experiance and I have ordered fans and nozzles through your links and the flexible filement, keep putting out ther great Aquilla videos!
Great Video. I did the Hot end swap and put new PTFE tubing on my Aquila as well. This was after I remixed part of your Bowden block(Awesome job by the way!) so it has a tie down loop for cable management. Your videos have been great and helpful!
Ah that’s right. Nice mod. I just let mine hang. Haha.
Couldn't you just put the high temperature tubing in full length and skip the lining?
Yes. But doing it the way I did also solves the issue with the ptfe couplers allowing movement. Overtime, that movement gets larger, creating retraction issues and clogs that are hard to diagnose. So this method is like hitting two birds with one stone. ;)
Nice videos covering this printer.
I just picked one up at a ridiculous low price.My 3rd customer return printer,for less than half price,complete just needing a few tweaks to work properly.
A quick tip for vernier caliper usage...the thin blade that extends when you open the the jaws is used for depth measurements.
Nice! And thanks for the tip!
I'm still an amateur in all this, but as someone who frequently experiences major anxiety about whether he made the right decision in terms of hobbies, your channel seriously reassures me that I made the right choice by buying the Aquila as my first printer.
Thanks for the kind works. Glad I could help in some way.
@@3DPrintSOS I just ordered a spool of yousu PETG after watching one of your other videos, soon as it arrives i'm gonna print the washer off and install this mod (along with some others)
looking forward to getting more printing done once i move beyond the basic PLA i've been using.
Nice! Moving on up.
So thankful I have direct drive.
Great videos. Can't wait to watch more, and upgrade my new X2. BTW, has anyone ever told you that you sound like Jay Leno?
Love Leno. I’ll take that as a compliment. :)
@@3DPrintSOS I do too... and yes, that's indeed a compliment!
nice mod...looking forward to more mods
Just got my aquila x2 yesterday. Got it running today. I put a metal dual gear extruder on right away. Everything else is bone stock. I printed out the printer test thing on the SD card and it looked fine but I broke it trying to just pull it off and I noticed that the layers didn't seem to stick together as well. I'm using a new roll of PLA I got also. I upped the hot end heat to 210 from the preprogramed 200 and I'm seeing what that does. I'm printing out the "tool box" that's on the SD card now. Looking forward to learning more. Sub'd to the channel.
Nice! Congrats on the new machine. Keep in mind that for a dual gear extruder, you need to recalibrate your esteps. From what I understand you cannot get the steps high enough on stock firmware for a dual gear extruder. That's why I always recommend sticking with stock or printing my block and lever from thingiverse. Unless, you dont mind going aftermarket firmware and calibrating steps, in which case, dual gear is definitely stronger.
@@3DPrintSOS OHHHH . I didn't know that. I guess I'll let this tool box finish and then look at doing that. I did see a video you had loaded about updating the machine to 3rd party firmware that opens up more settings. I assume I could do that in there? I don't see any real downside to loading a 3rd party if it plays well with everything. I don't really see a downside to it.
I will likely try inserting a short segment of borosilicate glass inside the hot end. Borosilicate is less conductive than metals and has a max working temp of around 400C or so. Might have to use silicone on the fitting thread to hold it and not crush/break the glass.
Very interesting idea
Using Capricorn Tubing Cutters
To use the cutters, simply squeeze to open, and place the tubing in the groove, aligning the path of the blade with where you want to make the cut.
Release the pressure on the blade, and allow it to come to rest on the tubing, so you can make sure it is in exactly the right spot.
Now make sure the tubing aligned in the cutter, and squeeze it between your fingers and thumb.
PTFE is very slippery, and it will want to slide out during the cut, resulting in an end that isn't square. You will be tempted to press slowly and carefully on the cutter, but the trick to getting a good cut is actually to squeeze fast, like using a stapler.
Great instructions! My pair isn’t legit and so it cuts at an angle if you do it any other way. However if I spin it, I’m still getting clean cuts.
Whats the washer you drop first into the hotend? I have printed two of the washer you have in the description but the washer is way to big to fit into the little hole?? 8:16
Great video, thanks again for the great info, brother! I have been having some mad clogging issues as I have been using multiple materials very closely together. After taking things apart and looking closely I can see the exact issue you mention where the tube pulls away a bit and material gets in there. Anyway, I have the new tubing on order and will be getting this fixed asap. Thanks! PS - What was the music you were using in the video? Love it.
I use the Aquila and print with ABS, PLA, PLA+, PETG, and TPU.
Awesome. That should solve it. I get all my music from “royalty free music” here on RUclips. I honestly don’t remember exactly. I have to dig around.
Awesome. I love that this machine can do all this.
Thxs great vid once again, could not find the link for printing the very small washer...
Here you go: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4285465
I typically put these in the description ;)
Ok,I need you to verify somethng for me. I did this mod when you first did it and I was just starting out using PLA. I knew then that I would eventually would want to do other filaments and now I want to do PETG. I have been told that I need to either get a new all metal hotend or all metal heatbreak due to off gasses. I use Capricorn XS that says it's rated for 300c,so I should be fine printing PETG right? Now if you have a suggestion on an all Metal Hotend for the original Aquila,I'm all for upgrading. 😁I have learned sooo much from your videos,thanks and keep them coming.
You’ll be fine printing petg. You just can’t go much over 240
@@3DPrintSOS Thanks. I've seen people say they used anywhere from 230-245 on PETG.
I'm just curious, could the printed spacer also work at the extruder end in order to help with alignment?
You could but it wouldnt serve the same purpose. The main reason for the spacer is to stop the PTFE tube from wiggling away from the nozzle and causing clogging. Not at issue on the extruder side.
Be careful replacing your oem nozzle with the hardened steel ones in the link above. I did a bunch of upgrades all at once (replace fans, added crtouch, replaced springs, replaced tubing, replaced nozzle) and I have not been able to geta single print to come out ever since. I had to slowly narrow it down until i finally i reverted back to the stock nozzle and everything prints great again. I returned the nozzles for a refund today and will order more replacement voxelab ones in case my current nozzle fails for some reason.
Perhaps I got a bad batch or it looks like there may be multiple sellers on Amazon offering the item and the one I got was inferior quality.
Had to be a bad batch or a ptfe misalignment or gap. Unless your particular nozzle was off center or not drilled correctly. Not saying it’s not possible. Just rare.
I just wanted to chime in and share that I had the same experience. The nozzle was the culprit of my issues and once I replaced it with my stock one, all worked well again.
Couldn’t even tell you how many nozzles I’ve replaced over the years. I need to make a shirt that says “when in doubt, nozzle out”
That's a good motto!
Maybe I'm crazy...or maybe I just missed something in the comment thread, but did you use two spacers? It looked like you dropped one in before inserting the PTFE tubing into the hotend?
My fault for not making that clear. Just one spacer.
@@3DPrintSOS No wories...it looked like you put something in there and I went back a bunch of times listening to see if you mentioned two...you didn't, but I thought I'd check. Your videos have been literally life-saving for my printer experience...I am only two weeks in and thanks to you and some other individuals, I haven't had to endure some of the learning curve lessons. Thanks immensely for what you do!
That’s why I like to hear. Glad I could help. :)
For the heating pad is that the glass one? can you attach the link where you bought it. Really appreciate. Thank you
I tried hard to figure out what heating pad you’re talking about but I honestly not sure what you’re referring to. Haha. Help me help you.
Your bowdin fix is essentially a crush fitting used in plumbing... The couplings are extremely cheap on amazon
I wonder if they will work?
thats on your Take your Aquila to the NEXT LEVEL with this simple modification! video
How deep is the washer supposed to go down? I feel like mine is getting caught near the bottom of the threads
Thank you for all of your videos, they are a huge help!! My husband already want to upgrade to a new printer. What do you recommend? I’ll keep using the Aquila, but he wants something faster. Thanks!!
Hmm faster? I’m not sure honestly. All of my machines print around the Aquila speed. You can always go way faster with a larger nozzle. Even a .05 mm nozzle can cut the time of prints down by 40%
Hi, I have a doubt
I can install the ender 3 hotend on my aquila. I have problems and I want to replace it along with its other accessories. I think they are the same voltage
It should be a direct replacement. Both machines are 24v
Bought some more tubing and this time got a cutter with it and I think I maybe when I replaced the tubing the first time I didn't have it cut straight and the clip that holds the tubing wasn't actually secure on the hot end side so I imagine it was probably moving which would then cause the problems I was having but I still wanted to try this out and see how it does.
I did this last night to mine (more to fix my printing issues then to be able to print at extreme temps) and I think I may be able to trust the printer to do more then an hour or two. Previously I would have nothing but issues with clogging and you could hear the extruder skipping (making a "thunking noise"), even on the shorter prints I'd have some issues but they would come up fairly OK but not as good as my ender 5. Previously if I printed anything that took longer then an hour or two the layers just wouldn't stick together and you could peel the layers or simply crush it in your hand with no issues.
I'm going to do more testing tonight and think I have to tweak a couple settings as I was getting some stringing now.
When I was researching purchasing another printer this one kept coming up and I was hearing nothing but great things about it and the price couldn't be beat. I got it all set up, worked fairly good on the few prints I tried so I tried longer prints, either 1 piece that was larger or several smaller pieces) and then I that's when started having issues galore, having to replace multiple nozzles and so I stopped trying to print for more then an hour or two at a time on this printer and stuck to my more reliable ender 5 but now I'm excited to see if I can trust this one to print for longer. Read online how lots of people were doing long 10-20 hour prints no issues but in the end I just didn't have to time to really dig into it and start pulling things apart again but then I came across this video a week or two ago and thought I would give it a shot and see. thanks for your great channel.
Glad to hear you decided to work on the machine and problem solve. The Ender 5 and the Aquila’s components are actually VERY similar. So by you learning and fixing this machine, you’ll know what to do when the Ender5 runs into them. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS Ender 5 was my first machine and have had for quite some time now and I've done a few mods over that time to it already and it has been relatively problem free. The Aquila on the other hand has given a lot of issues by comparison (with some of the same modifications made from what I learned from owning the ender 5).
Last night I started up a print and ended up hearing the clunking noise again every so often, checked the nozzle and was able to clean it out but I have some spares still but may have to look at ordering some more soon just to have and I'm going to double check the leveling again today to make sure it's just not too close to bed.
Wonder why this is happening. How is your spring tension on the extruder lever? Maybe it’s just too loose? Are you making sure you’ll ptfe tube is being held flush to the nozzle by the coupler? Those can be a pain.
I made a quick video. Check this one out: ruclips.net/user/shortsDbMdL1KFB8o?feature=share
Hey thanks for the video I need to change the gold tip
I started printing with PTEG at 228 C and I came back to watch this video again because (I dont know if it is a placebo effect) but I started to get small headaches and lightheaded every time I printed with pteg. Did that ever happen to you when you started out 3d printing high temp filaments .I'm hoping its just placebo but I'm gonna confirm it when I change the tubing.
Woah, no that should t be happening. I would highly recommend some tubing if you’re going to be printing at that temp for a long time. It might be placebo but I’m no doctor and some people are sensitive to things other aren’t aren’t. So please stay safe. If it makes you feel that way, switch materials for sure.
#helpanoob wont the printed washer melt when printer is printing? or do the pieces not melt after getting printed?
If you use PETG, you should be good. The fan cools the hotend enough to keep that area cool. It would only melt if you have fan issues.
i found, that pushing the fitting all the way to the other end (you mentioned that)worked really well...i think it's the way the fitting is made to trap in one direction. i did this modification as well(X2), with the unassembled unit. the brass fittings are hexagonal and a reduced end on a multi-blade drive worked to get it loose(the tool from Vox, slipped, before i used the nut driver.) the shroud on the 2 seems more tricky to remove, from my experience. nd, i cut a much longer length of the PTFE material and installed that, rather than the short piece....is ok, yes?
Hi Fedor! I installed the washer and blue PTFE when I first got my original Aquila, and the M6 coupler kept backing out, even though I tightened it as much as possible without crushing the PTFE liner inside the hotend. I noticed that the thread coating on the coupler is worn off, any idea what to use?
Really? I haven’t had that happen before. Wonder if your ptfe tube is just a hair too long. You can always try Teflon tape around the threads
Is MK8 the nozzle compatibility size? Thread of the nozzle to heater?
Yes, these machines take a mk8 style nozzle. It’s both thread, length, and shape make it an mk8.
@@3DPrintSOS thank you! I have had mine for a little over a month. I figured I should probably order some of these and keep them on hand. This video is also super helpful. I enjoyed it and will be a long time viewer...
I wonder why you didn’t use the depth gauge on your caliper to measure the length for the tube? It’s the little skinny bit that sticks out the other end when you spread the caliper jaws
Because I’m not smart. Only reason. 😂
Don’t say that dude. I wouldn’t be watching your great tuts if that’s the case. Keep up the good job 👍
Appreciate that. But yeah, I just get in the zone and miss all kinds of stuff. I read the comments and look back sometimes in awe. Haha.
Mine has started to jam up at the hot end and just clicks at the extruder. When I pull the filament out it has a couple of blobs that stops you pulling it right out. I'm guessing this mod will fix my issue? Thanks for another great video.
Yes, this would help eliminate the chance of a gap developing between the nozzle and ptfe tube
What do you do if you are replacing the nozzle and you strip the nozzle
Ouch. I would get things up to temp, then remove the heater block with the nozzle, turn the heat off, remove thermistor and heater cartridge and try to get the nozzle in a vise or vise grips. It should come off. If not, blocks are VERY cheap. :)
Ok so the first washer…which direction did you drop it in? The small ting up or down?
I need some help I bought voxelab Aquila but I'm having problems it would over Extrude filament when heating up and when it's prints gumming it up 😫 !! I need your advice in it and thanks.
What do you over extrude when heating up? A bit of ooze as the printer heats is normal. As the hotend gets hot, if there is plastic in the nozzle, it will drop out. No way to really stop that without taking filament out before hand.
Usually things gum up because of a leveling issue. Check out my easy leveling video. It will help big time.
That very first washer you dropped in . wont it melt . And do i put it in same way as you did with top washer . just you didn't show what way goes in on and what sort type of washer . so if i print 2 washers drop first one same way round as top washer . . Great video , gonna be doing this next week ,
I have a question. Any help would be appreciated. Could I just run the new PTFE tube the wholde way? Thank you, and I love your videos
You could. But you’d bypass the entire fix. The point is to “squish” this piece of ptfe tube between the nozzle and top of the hotend. This prevents clogging caused by wiggle in the PTFE couplers.
Ok @@3DPrintSOS
Instead of cutting the small piece to fit down in there, can you replace the whole tube with the new one?? Again thanks for the vid!
Yep would work. But cutting it and putting in that spacer solves and additional problem. Removes a lot of clogging issues that tend to happen.
Those amazon linked hardened nozzles are good to go? The reviews are horrible. Kind of hesitant to buy them even though I enjoy your videos and all the info you share about the voxelab.
I didn’t notice the reviews. I’ve been using them for a while. No issues. :/
Have you done or considered a bimetal or titanium heat brake? Looks like a considerable bang for buck upgrade.
Considered for sure. Seems like a great idea.
looks like you're doing the Luke Hatfield Hot End mod
Is that where it originated from? I’m not sure. Been too long since I’ve looked! If so, props to Luke! Great mod.
@@3DPrintSOS yeah its a good one. Like the insert that you shared better. Going to try that one
if you just intend on printing pla is this a nessecary modification?
No, but It eliminates the problem of the ptfe fitting having play and causing clogs where the ptfe tube meets the nozzle. So it’s a very nice mod.
Thanks for the video. I'll check out the harden steel nozzle! Also would you recommend a direct drive for the acquilla? New to 3d printing so I'm not sure if it's the way to go.
I love the idea of direct drive but I like the idea of keeping the moving hot end as light as possible more. Less weight means staying level longer, the motor work less, and more accuracy in general.
In the video you didn't really show which way the spacer goes in. Does it go in with the raised end down or up, or does it even matter?
It does, there is a “funnel” side. That should go up. It will help the filament guide itself into the hole.
Thanks, I thought that might have been the case, I just wanted to make absolutely sure. Thanks for this GREAT channel...
Glad I could help in someway.
My spacer doesn't seem to fit past the threads, should I try reprinting it or just try sanding down the edges a bit?
Sanding a bit should work. You think it printed over extruded? You can maybe reprint with less flow.
@@3DPrintSOS I finally got it in. I think some of the brim was still on. I also had my printer heated up the second time I tried and it fell right down. I don't know if that made any difference.
Is there any reason to not replace the entire bowden tube with the PTFE?
Yes, doing it this way helps eliminate the slop in between the ptfe tube and the nozzle. A critical spot that has molten filament there and can cause clogs if a gap develops. Two birds, one stone. It IS much simpler do to the whole line.
@@3DPrintSOS cool, I have a tecboss tubing on order, I'll use your setup per your suggestion.
@@3DPrintSOS okay, after watching a second time, perhaps a third, I better understand what you're doing. You're trying to keep the PTFE tube from moving around inside the hot end. This setup allows one to use your printed washer to keep that piece from moving around. Makes perfect sense now
Yes! That’s exactly it.
the 2 links for the PTFE tubing do not work anymore. All i can find is rated up to 260c. do you know where I can find some rated up to 300c now.
Wish I could. The company hasn’t responded after they sold out because of the video. I tried emailing, using their website form, looking for them on social...nothin. The Capricorn tubing is the next best bet.
I suspect disappearance of Tecboss might be due to their 300 degree rating for their PTFE tubing being dangerous. Capricorn is highly regarded, and they claim the XS version is somewhat more capable of withstanding deformation to 280C. There's a nice table of Safe Printing Temperatures at captubes.
Quick question, in your video, you added a printed washer below and above the captured Capricorn tubing. Please confirm that both printed washers are required.
You just need a single washer at the top of the hotend, under the ptfe tubing.
@@3DPrintSOS Thx
my filament only comes out correctly when i manually hold it into the PETG tube, not sure what to do at this point. nozzle isn’t clogged already checked. Have eSun pla +.
Check the lever. Common issue is it cracking.
nice upgrades, but at what price is a printer that doesn't need any upgrades for us to perform?
I would say they are all “budget” machines until you are getting around $1,000. Check out the Prusa MK3 and MK3S if you want something out of the box that will likely last significantly longer than a standard “budget” machine.
With that said, checkout some of the bigger RUclips channels. Some guys use really really expensive machines and have plenty of issues. The only difference is how much the replacement parts cost. 😂
No firmware changes? So the printer is still limited to 260degC ?
Would it be OK (and possibly simpler) to replace all of the PTFE tube, rather than just cut off a small piece for the hot end? Really enjoying your series of videos on the Voxelab Aquila - I've just bought one!
That would solve the temperature issue, the point of the short piece is to prevent movement of the tube in the coupler.
Why not just run the PTFE tube from the hot end straight to the extruder, wouldn't that be a lot more simple?
Simple yes. But doing it this way solves the issue of the ptfe tube ontop of the hotend having a little bit of play which causes clogs when the ptfe moves away from the nozzle. This clamps it down literally eliminating that issue.
Out of all your printers, which one that you have been using would you recommend if you could only get one?
I would get an Aquila and an Ender Extender to make it a 400x400 print bed since I sometimes need to print larger things. I’d then put on a hotend and nozzle from Zodiac and be absolutely set.
Can I ask why you don't just replace the whole tube with the new one? Why use the 2 different ones? Super new to 3D printing. I have to order more pneumatic M6 fittings for mine because both of the ones it came with no longer hold the ptfe tube in place, even though its less than a week old. But since it wont hold the tube I cant print the washer you use, so can I just replace the whole clear tube with the new stuff, without using the washer?
You can totally do it without the washer and go all the way down. The reason for it though is sometimes during retractions there can be a bit of play between the nozzle and the ptfe tube. This causes clogs and all kinds of issues. This tube and washer eliminate that problem completely. ;)
No matter what I do the bed seems to lose its leveling after 1 print, i have measured and fine tuned everything that's recommended to no avail could the be the cheap springs on the bed
Check this out: ruclips.net/video/Q7Mu05fZNsk/видео.html This should help!
Is there a way to use a micro switch type filement run out sensor on my Aquilla s2 printer? I
have had a Voxelab sensor on order for weeks now and no word on when it will get here. A friend gave me an Ender Sensor and i plugged it in, ,but it doesn't work, the LED shows it sees the filement , but the the print doesn't pause.
I just tried to install the hardened steel MK8 nozzles in your link and it destroyed my hot end. Def not the same threads but I do have the Aquila X2. Any info on nozzles that fit the X2 would be greatly appreciated.
Well that’s interesting. All Aquila’s and other clones of Enders run an MK8 nozzle. If it has a cone shape, it’s correct. There is also a v6 nozzle but that has different threads and a unique shape. Mk8 should be correct though.
@@3DPrintSOS I wish I could post pictures on here. The hardened steel nozzles appear to be the same thread dimension as the stock nozzle. BUT the threads are much sharper on the hardened steel whereas the brass threads are flattened if that makes any sense. Is there someplace I can post a picture of them side by side for you to see?
Imgur would work or on discord, you can tag me there. I’m sure others would be interested to know as well
sorry this is a little of topic i am new to printing and my voxelab aquillax2 is now throwing a message that says" Note : the system doesn't detect the filament. please loading filament."is there any way i can remove the sensor and print with out it , Any help would be greatful
Will it be possible to remove the PTFE tube again?
For sure.
Do you know exactly how long the ptfe tube has to be ?
I purchased one. But it's 1m long I need to cut it to size.
And does the tube have to reach the nozzle ?
Follow-on question: which side of the 'washer' goes up? One side has a raised ring....and wait.....I need 2 printed washers!? Watched it again from the beginning....printed another washer anyway....lol ugh.
Nope. The ring goes down. That way the cone helps the filament go into the hole
@@3DPrintSOS Do I need to change the heat settings with the stainless nozzle? my prints are just delaminating now, the layers aren't sticking at all, to each other.
Yes, typically 5-10 degrees hotter
The mod is fine for keeping the PTFE tube from backing away from the nozzle, BUT even with your special brand tube I would not be telling people that they can use this to print up to 300C! PTFE is still releasing toxic fumes at 250C and higher. Get an all-metal hotend if you want to go above 250C, don't gamble with your health!
Appreciate this. Listen up people! Do this at your own risk and please do your own research when you decide to modify your printer.
Thats mistake imo.just replace whole bowden ptfe tube. You just multiplied possibility for malfunction.
Not when you replace it with a better one ...the PTFE tube has way tighter measurements and the stock one WILL burn after some weeks of 235° printing.
Not sure I agree Kristijan. This mod has been perfect on my other machines for a long time. But you are more than welcome to just replace the whole tube. I’ve done that many times as well, just have ptfe fittings. :)
Why? PETG can withstand quite a bit of heat. Plus, is ontop of the heat sink. It won’t ever get hot enough to melt. You guys don’t agree on what this fixes? I can’t stand ptfe fittings, they always have play and cause issues overtime. This eliminates play at the ptfe tube on the bottom, by the nozzle. Win win for me.
I was wondering why you did not just replace the entire tube. So, do I understand this? If you replace the whole tube with PTFE you improve the performance of the hot end with higher temps but introduce possible problem with the PTFE slipping or coming out. This mod is the best of both worlds?
Close. If you do this mod, you “squish” the ptfe tube to the nozzle. Without that, the fitting has a tiny bit of wiggle room. So when a gap develops at the nozzle and ptfe tube, you can have clogs. This mod helps eliminate that issue
Why did you over complicate it? They send a meter of ptfe tubing in the kit. Simply replace the entire feed tube from end to end and you don't need to measure one tiny piece so perfectly or make washers or anything. I dont understand using PLA to make this washer. Seems quite counterproductive to the entire exercise. What happens later when this all needs to be replaced? You wont be able to grab the tube like you showed with the old one. You will have to take off both ends each time?
You can do it how you like. No worries. If you use this method, like I mentioned in the video, you eliminate the play in the ptfe couplers and the possibly to clog your nozzle during retractions. Sometimes the ptfe couplers have wiggle room after a month or two and that play created gaps between the nozzle and ptfe. Causing clogs and inconsistent prints. This is a solution. Works exceptionally well.
@@3DPrintSOS Im confused. Isn't the heat damage to the stock tube why you would do this mod? It seems your way introduces a lot of guessing of where the alignment is happening between the nozzle and then again between the washer and top of your short tube. Relying on "squishing" simply bothers me a bit ;) Isnt that what the new tube does at the nozzle and with teeth on the fitting? In fact doesnt the shorter connection above the top of the washer give less leverage and stability?
I do this on all of my machines I print with. For me, it’s a must do mod if I’m keeping the stock hot end on.
There are lots of vids on this out there. I believe it’s called “the Chep fix”
My 3d printer 's white teflon tube keeps getting pushed out of the metal bowden tube. It was not popping out before, any suggestions? It just pushes the white tube away and results in filament spooling in the air.
Classic ptfe coupler failure. Happens all the time unfortunately. That’s why I tell people to print and use my printable extruder block because it eliminates the ptfe coupler at the extruder. You can also buy a set of improved couplers if you can’t print. amzn.to/3kwjRaw
@@3DPrintSOS thanks so much, i love ur conentent. Could u provide a link to ur extruder block?
Thank you. Absolutely. Here you go: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4647801
Any ide why I'm getting warping, I'm trying to print two victorinox scales and I have tried almost every setting including re leveling I'm at a loss
If you’ve tried it all, try reducing your cooling fan a bit. Try 50%. You can also delay it to turn on later, not just at layer 2. Sometimes layer 4 or so can work.
@ 6:50 you unscrewed that piece with ease. When I tried to unscrew mine, the frame holding the hot end was wanting to bend. I didn't want to dent the rails so I stopped but why is it so stuck?
Hmm. Shouldn’t be THAT hard. Are you putting some heat in the system? Maybe heating the hotend for a bit will help.
@@3DPrintSOS I had originally heated it up but cooled it down before attempting. I'm gonna try again and heat it up while doing so.
@@3DPrintSOS ya it's over tightened or something, tried again this time rollers came outta railing while I was holding it too. Might of damaged something cuz now it's wobbling a lil bit.
Oh man! That’s not tight, that’s practically seized. The rollers can be adjusted, the bottom roller has an eccentric nut. Use the wrench that came with the printer to adjust it to make it right again. Although, it might be better to remove the whole hotend off the printer and try a vice and a wrench.
@@3DPrintSOS lol rite I adjusted the rollers and it is fine now, scared me that doing that knocked it out that much. Luckily no dents on the railing. I was thinking that too, that I would have to disassemble 😓
what metal extruder do you recommend
Not sure. I’ve never had luck with metals ones because they all use ptfe couplers. And they fail too often. I just print the “Fedorstruder” and never worry about it again. ;)
Any plans for Klipper and the Aquila in the future ?
I've never looking deep into Klipper to be honest. Could be interesting.
Can you please do a video on how to add the filament detection to aquila version 1? I found in the settings it has the option for filament detection, but I do not know how to configure it.
All you need is to add a very inexpensive filament detection sensor. It would work right away as long as you enable the feature in firmware.
I’ll look into grabbing one. My X2 has one. Maybe I can borrow it from there.
Hi 3DPrintSOS.
Great help videos for the Voxelab Aquila, I have a big problem with the connector one the extruder of this printer!
I brought some good quality Clear PETG from my liked filament company "e Sun" their filament is very good indeed.
But I found that the stiffness and twangy effect of the filament was far more than their normal PETG Blue or Black I brought before?
Such that when trying to print a model with it at the right heat for the bed and the hot end,
It was far too hard to get it to stick down even on a fully cleaned bed, the PTFE tube come
out the connector with the filament pushing the tube away from the extruder?
I ended up having to stop the print and of course use the printers auto unload feature.
When the filament got to the extruder end connector it got stuck in the brass connector.
I had to remove the connect and cut of about a foot length of filament to try to get out the filament
out of the connector which was really jammed in at the screw end of it.
The filament broke off level with the screw end but below the level of the plastic collar of the connector.
How do I remove that tiny bit of filament stuck in the connector without damaging the collar?
I can't use the other free connector that come with the printer because that one is not able to hold on the
PTFE tube when printing it just undoes and the filament pushes the tube off the connector!
Can you also post a video of how to step by step dismantle the extruder and use it's bolts and screws
to build the printed new extruder lock you given us the code to print in PETG which we need to print flexible's etc.
Thank you so much.
I would replace that connector. They are a huge pain in the butt and always fail. Not an if but a when type of deal.
@@3DPrintSOS Hello there, Thanks for the advice. Is there a better connector I could replace it with that I can buy on Amazon UK site?
It is a shame that connectors are not better made to allow for the stresses placed on them at the extruder end of 3D printers?
I hope you can get around to doing the help video about how to dis-mantle the extruder and use the bolts and parts to built the printed PETG extruder block you designed that we need for the flexible etc. filaments soon thank you again 8 )
I would just print my extruder and avoid the coupler all together. ;) I have a video on it.
Ok I'm sold, did you get anywhere with the UK afilate links, I feel bad if I'm getting stuff on your recommendation but not getting anything out of Amazon for it
Still pending sadly. Dude it’s ok man. I really appreciate the gesture but totally no big deal.
after watching some of your videos i'm quiet interessted in buying the Aquila as my first 3d printer. but i was wondering, because i didn't seem to find it anywhere, the powersupply... is it a meanwell or a noname?
Good question. I’ve taken it apart but never looked for a brand. I’m going to say it’s a no name but maybe someone else can pitch in.
@@3DPrintSOS more diggin in the web... and i found a review that stated they use meanwell psu's!
I’m new so, question, why not use the new PTF tube to replace the entire length of the original tube?
Because having the fitting hold a piece down inside the hotend prevents a gap from forming between the tube and the nozzle. Stopping clogs and stringing.
@@3DPrintSOS OH ok makes sense. Right after I posted the question I started putting that together. Thank you for the share and the response.
is the little printed piece super important? i cant get it to print correctly
Yes. Try to print it very slowly. Check your belt tension
@@3DPrintSOS word thanks man!
I’m having issues with the layers being printed on top of my supports being of really poor quality and messy, is this because of layer height or another issue, I’m quite confused.
I am also using an Aquila
It will always be a bit “messy” however, you can make the supports more dense to give the print more of a platform.
just wanna let you know the tecboss ptfe tubing link from amazon is not working
Looks like they’ve sold out. I messaged them to see if they will have more stock soon. In the meantime, Capricorn is the next best thing. amzn.to/3s5B4tF
@@3DPrintSOS gotcha and thanks for the fast reply, you got a great channel going
Hey Fedor I decided to do this mod today. I made a mistake using a PLA printed spacer, my heatsink seems to reach temperatures at the top that can make pla melt. Maybe it's
the new fan I installed not moving enough air causing heat creep. Anyhow, I was wondering if there is a 3rd party spacer part I could buy that is more heat resistant, or even stack some teflon washers in there instead?
Hmm. It shouldn’t be getting THAT hot up there. How long was the print? PETG is definitely the way to go with these spacers. Or abs or nylon. Sadly, I don’t know of any that would just drop in, without printing one that is.
@@3DPrintSOS 48 hour print. For now I just took a longer section of the capricorn tubing and ran it from the extruder to the nozzle. I have some PETG on the way to print a new spacer and retry the mod. I was surprised it got that hot too so far up the heatsink, it must be the new 40mm fan I added not pushing enough air on those longer prints.
I’ve been hearing more and more about these fans causing heatcreep. I’m guessing I have earlier machines. :/
Why not use the PTFE tube all the way from the entrance of the filament to the nozzle?, Is required to have a cut between the nozzle tube and the rest for some reason?
Only because this helps solve another issue as I mentioned. It stops the movement between the nozzle and ptfe tube. That play can create clogs and other retraction issues.
@@3DPrintSOS Yes I got it, It would be possible to just put a good fittings to avoid that movement?. Btw I'm waiting for my Aquila I ordered after having an issue with the Neptune2, your videos are great man. Thanks
Thanks! Well my extruder block solves the play on that end, so this solves the issues on the extruder end. :)
@@3DPrintSOS I got mi Aquila and it works great. I've made a Z axis guide for the rod. www.thingiverse.com/thing:4912947 is the only mod I have done for now
How do you update firmware to hit above 250 °C?
You’d have to compile it yourself. There are settings for Max. You have to tell it to be 15deg higher. So if you want the Max to be 300, you’d set 315 as Max in Marlin and compile.
really dont recommend using PLA as a ferrule crimp on your PTFE tube in a pneumatic fitting simply bc if you develop heat creep youre going to fuck up your hot end, and if you dont, well... you arent actually crimping the PLA, the pneumatic fitting uses barbs to hold the tube in place. It doesnt crimp. Just buy a compression fitting. its literally $14 and does the same exact job but is actually designed for it. On top of that get a bi metal heatbreak from slice engineering. You will thank me later, especially if you are trying to print higher temp filaments. [C-E model for ender 3 and its clones. Use slices model compatibility checker]
on top of that I recommend not wasting money on hardened steel nozzles unless youre printing things that require higher temps than PETG. Which you really shouldnt be doing unless you have an enclosure to begin with depending on the polymer composition.
I partially agree with you but hey, to each their own. If you get enough heatcreep all the way at the top of your hotend, you have other issues to worry about. And yes, you should only need a steel nozzle if you are going to print abrasives, not just hotter filaments.
@@3DPrintSOS Fair lol
🤝
whats the Aquila like printing Japanese letters as i will be getting one soon