Can the Aquila print ABS?
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- Can the Aquila print ABS? Yes...yes it can. And today, I'm going to show you how you too can print ABS on this awesome little machine. I also test out Inland's ABS filament. Let's see how it does.
ABS Profile: www.3dprintsos...
Inland ABS: amzn.to/3sJ2bJC
Voxelab Aquila 3DPrinter:
on Amazon: amzn.to/2Pjv3KE
on Official Website: www.voxelab3dp...?aff=4
TECBOSS PTFE Tubing: amzn.to/3mxAT7L
My links: linktr.ee/3DPr...
The Aquila hasn’t given me a problem since I started printing for the first time. I owe it 100% to your channel
100! No way. I’ll take 5% credit for possible inspiration. Rest is on you!
Agreed!
I got my Aquila printer last week, my first 3D printer, and your videos have been great to help me get up and running with it. Thanks!
Glad to hear it! Thanks for watchin.
I did a lot of review watching (probably 8 or 9 different 3D printing channels), and finally pulled the trigger on an Aquila. Only spent $149, so that's a win. Should be here on Friday.
You're going to love it. Just take your time with setup and calibration and it will treat you well.
After i saw your videos i bought the Aquila as my first printer. It works very fine and soon i will try ABS .
Have I said I love you yet? I just started my first print (literally just started right now). I bought some filament thinking they are all the same and I happen to buy ABS and here you are with a video of it! All your videos are treasure.
😂 Glad you found em useful!
I bought the Aquila printer and loving it! Thank you for the recommendation!
You’re welcome Enjoy.
That's the same paper towel holder we use in our kitchen! Great job on the ABS print, sir!
Ayyyy. Shoutout to the designer bpopp on thingiverse for making a great holder. :)
Love your videos. I just bought an Aquila and found your channel based on that. I have a lot to learn, and I get a lot of knowledge from you! Thank you!
No problem. Hopefully I can help a bit. :)
I've just ordered this printer based on your videos, thanks for taking the time to make all of them!
Nice! You’ll love it.
@@3DPrintSOS you weren’t wrong, setup took me about an hour and thanks to your vids I’m getting decent prints straight out the box, I’ve now ordered the RGB fans you recommended! Thanks again ✌🏻
The fans are awesome, actually. You’ll love em.
Overextruding! I’ve been killing my self thinking it was a leveling issue and all I needed to do was look at your ABS video. Idk what I’d do without your videos. 🤣 thanks!
Haha no problem. I get myself into these messes so you don’t have to! Haha
@@3DPrintSOS we really do appreciate it. My little brother wants to get one. I told him exactly what you said in a video. It’s not plug and play… it’s like a skill you work on and improve over time. Thanks again and keep being awesome.
:)
I love your channel...I bought the Akeeyla...Aqweela, Aquila, because of you, thanks for all the great videos! Keep them coming...Ps: I just call it my Voxelab.
We need an official to step in for the proper annunciation. Haha
@@3DPrintSOS Aquila (A-kee-la.)...Latin for eagle......in spanish it is Aguila.
That’s how I used to say it but someone broke my brain by telling me they live in a town called Aquila and it’s pronounced ah-quill-ah. And i haven’t been able to say it since. Lol
@@3DPrintSOS It's definitely A-Kee-La. Just like when you order a quesadilla with jalapeños. I hope you don't ask for a Koo-ay-sa-dilla with dja-la-puh-nose :)
Hahaha. That’s perfect.
And I just bought a shit ton of abs thinking I could run it on this machine. I'm getting the setting. I've been having stick issues as well on first layer. I got this thanks again!!!!
Try both sides of the bed. And try adding glue stick. If you apply the glue stick cold, it’s much smoother on the bottom! And a ptfe tube is very inexpensive and I have a link to em in the description. You should be able to print abs just fine.
That was the first upgrades I got was the tube and hardened tip. I run a lot of petg. I wonder if tape would work just as good on abs or am i catching 🔥 haha.. we talked on messenger before you actually helped me set the machine up. Over last fall.
Well in that case, nice to talk to ya again! I try to help everyone, so it’s hard to keep track! Haha 😂 tape should be just fine. As long as you don’t mind reapplying. :)
Well done man loving the videos still. Keep up the good work and you seem to be the reason for most of the Aquila sales ( get affiliated )
Thank you! I did get affiliated. It seems no one really uses links and I don’t want to push it too much. I appreciate it though.
big fan of this 80's synth wave. im a noob, like super noob and im printing with this aquila, my 10 yr old daughter is too. Thanks for the videos, i'll be looking into that mod... Congratz on your 1 down vote btw. Your not legit unless you have haters.
We’re all noobs at some point. No worries. And super cool that your daughter is involved! I’ve been collecting a few thumb downs per video it seems. Can’t win them all. Haha
I was just wondering about abs on my aquila for my rc parts.. Again senor you save the day. And i have to upgrade my ram my fault for not checking cura info. Small set back not giving up... Ty again
Heated right side up bed plate always works fine for me for PLA And PETG. Never used glue stick. Only needed when the bed wasn’t heated.
PETG is known for fusing with build plates when not using an adhesive. ABS just warps on bed slingers and when the ambient temperature isn't high. So an adhesive as a must. As for PLA…anything can print PLA. That shouldn’t be an issue on pretty much any surface.
Its A Killer printer....you see what I have done there , right ? :D Great review like usual.
Haha. True. The pronunciation war continues.
Clever
just found a good offer for their next gen printer(a couple minimal upgrades) and waiting for it to be shipped. ordering some spools and PTFE tubing from your link above.
Awesome. I appreciate your support.
Love this and channel, I've been voxelab all the way.
Impressive. After seeing all of the crap ($$$) that people go through to get their Creality printers working right, this thing kicks ass. Thanks!
Absolute. I have a Creality machine sitting next to this one and although it’s a great machine, the orignal Ender 3 just can’t hand with the Aquila.
For printing ABS without enclosure and having a nice first layer try this.
Flip your glass on the ultrabase side, apply gluestick, spritz watter on the already applied gluestick and with a paper towel gently wipe untill you can't see the applied gluestick.
You'll wipe a lot of the applied gluestick but a thin layer will be left.
This works for me with ABS that likes to warp.
If you don't like to apply adhesive for ABS,try Fiberlogy Easy ABS or ASA or FormFutura Titan X(ABS), they work extremely well without enclosure and there is no warping,these filaments are a bit more expensive but it's worth it.
I appreciate the pro tip!
id be well happy with that.. nice video
TECBOSS PTFE Tubing link didn't work... Happy to use the referral!
It looks like they are either out or have removed them from Amazon. Capricorn is the next best thing. This looks like a good deal: amzn.to/3lxJatQ
Thanks for bringing that to my attention and thanks for the support.
awesome video as usual ! , one tip that could help is disolving scraps of abs filament in acetone to make a slurry then use it to make the print stick to the bed
Woa, that’s a thing? I gotta look this up! I have a ton of acetone.
@@3DPrintSOS yes! it is! , give it a try! , and it doesnt ruin the bottom of the print xD , its like using gluestick , what i usually do for best results is apply a layer of blue masking tape on top of the glass , then apply the slurry using a spatula where the print will be layed down and it comes off really easy from the tape without resiude after printing
Interesting. I’ll experiment with this for sure.
@@3DPrintSOS Yes, it solved bad ABS plate adhesion problem with my old MakerBot. I put kapton tape on first, squeeged the ABS/acetone slurry with a spatula, and boom, worked great. I've got the same setup now with my Aquila ABS printer.
EDIT: it's sticking too well actually. I'm having a real hard time removing the print from the print bed. I'm going to try the glue stick method.
This is a really cool pro tip. Totally going to give it a try on my next abs print.
also printed a small abs part a few days ago. ender 3 v2 prusaslicer profile worked perfect. printed without an enclosure.
... and I got my second aquila yesterday (ordered a week ago) -_- 116€ (~130$) was a deal I couldn’t resist
That’s an amazing deal!!
@@3DPrintSOS heard about that in the aquila subreddit a week ago. unfortunately the deal is over now.
but gst3d still has a great filament deal. 10kg for 100$ shipping included... grabbed that also 😝
Good video!! I’ve been wanting to try ABS, but wasn’t sure if the Aquila was a good printer for this material. Thanks for the profile.
It’s not perfect, but it can be done. And that’s what makes it really cool. Opens lots of doors if you want to walk through them.
So 230C for the extruder and 100C for the build plate, I'm not using the glue stick and it's working pretty well, just need to make sure to add a brim so it has more surface to stick to the plate.
Nice! Yea I’m digging printing abs. Seems like a great material.
What nozzle size did you use? The stock .04? (I'm assuming you used the stock nozzle because of your emphasis on "out of the box" printing of this ABS, but....you know what they say about "assume" -- Ha!). Or, did you switch to a .05, .06, or else?
Love your videos...and glad to be a subscriber. Planning to buy this printer as a birthday gift for my grandson who turns 13 in late July 2021.
Yessir. I plan on keeping this machine as close to stock as I can so I can push it a bit and help others with similar machines
Question, is it bad that i scratch the texture part of the build plate when trying to remove a print with the scraper? i would need to replace it if i damage it too much?
If it’s super deep and shows up in prints you may. But it should be ok. I have scratches on pretty much all of them, here or there. It’s almost inevitable. If it gets bad, you can always flip to straight glass. ;)
gonna have to try it bud
Super video, thanks. Just one question, what model of Aquila is on this video ? X2 C2 ?
TECBOSS seems to be gone from Amazon, and I don't see how to order direct from them. Any suitable substitutes?
Ah. That’s a shame. Capricorn is the next best thing. amzn.to/3CqnDJB
You managed to do what I could not. Defo gona give it more effort now I have seen you managed to do so well. Did you flip the bed to the glass side just to protect the textured side from the glue or was there another specific reason for the ABS prints?
I flipped it because I find the adhesion to be much better for pla. Which is why I print 90% of the time.
Apologies for the old video comment AND if this is answered elsewhere but I keep getting an error when I try to bring the ABS Cura profile in, it says it won't work with the material/nozzle combination selected, but all I have selected are basic ABS (since Cura doesn't know about Hatchbox ABS apparently) and nozzle is .4mm, from stock. What am I doing wrong here? Thank you!
Been watching your channel since I ordered my Aquila. Huge help!
Have you tried hairspray for improved adhesion? Sticks well without changing the look of the first layer.
That’s probably the one thing I haven’t tried yet. I do have a specific glue coming for some product testing though. ;)
Can you make a video on how to print with two colors?
Yes. I have that one written down and in the pipeline. :)
I heard ABS is less viscous than PLA and PETG when melted, so it might be overextruding because the extruder is facing less resistance than it's expecting, since you tuned your machine on those other plastics.
I want to do ABS too but am waiting until I have an enclosed printer with an outside vent due to the fumes it generates. It's nasty stuff compared to PLA and PETG.
Really, I didn’t know that about the viscosity. And those are all the reason I’ve waited years to print ABS.
Hey Fedor. Did you notice any fumes when printing?
It’s a major concern of mine. However I noticed no smells. Could be the specific abs
With ABS, don't you have to have it well ventilated? Not saying you don't but I've read a lot of people recommend a case and ventilation setup. Looks great though!
It’s rare that I print abs. So I’m not too worried about it. If I printed with it everyday, I’d be concerned.
Exactly how ABS worked out for me.
It was like oil and water without the glue.
Glue makes it hard to remove...
I’ve printed abs a bunch now. I still use glue. What works for removal is to use the scraper up against the print and a few taps to the scraper with something else. In my case, a screw driver. Those few light taps break it free.
What about masking tape on the plate?
thanks for all the advice - it has helped a lot.... I tried to use the profile you shared but the latest version of Cura won't let me use it (it won't show the profile as the quality type "draft" is not available anymore. Have you got an updates profile or can anybody advise me on setting for ABS using Cura to print on the Voxelab Aquila ?
The way to get my profiles to work is to setup a “custom” printer. If you have one selected from a list, such as an ender for example, it will give you that error.
I was wondering if it would do ABS gracefully in stock form, and looks like it can. Is that bowden tube the stock one that came with it, or the Tecboss you recommend in your other video? Also, completely off topic, but a super informative video would be on how to print via the USB port. Having to walk the SD card to and from the printer all the time is getting old =P. Also, a video on BL touch/3D Touch (I know you probably get that a lot)... :)
It’s still the stock tube. Have kept it on there to illustrate what a stock printer can do. But I wouldn’t keep it on there much if you plan on printing hot.
Thanks for the vid recommends. I get both of those a lot. I have them on my radar.
Yes! yes! I would like to have the same info and instruction. Voxelab customer service says it can not be done.? HMMMMMMMM
i have tried printing abs but not getting satisfactory results. i print with esun abs+ with ender 3v2 stock can aquila profile be used for ender 3v2. what slicer do you use?
You can try to use the profile, they are fairly similar. I think ambient temps and heat setting matter quite a bit depending on your location and where the printer is. You might have to enclose your machine to get it to print
Hi cool video, did you manage to print without any adhesive product just the clean bed? Keep the good work.
Hi. Thanks. No, not with abs. It seems to require glue to work. Similar to nylon
@@3DPrintSOS thanks for the info. 👍
ABS question, is the enclosure more to prevent drafts of air, or maintain temperature, or both ?
Both. Abs loves to cool fast and peal up from the bed. And the enclosure keepers the temps up until it’s ready.
I’ve actually printed abs quite a bit now with that machine and I’ve had very little issues when using an enclosure
@@3DPrintSOS great, thanks, I'll keep the temp in mind making an enclosure this week :-)
I bought a roll of Inland red ABS. Haven’t run it yet but I’m encouraged by your success. How was the smell?
No smell from the stuff I had at all. Even when standing next to it.
Recently I have been having a lot of trouble with my printer stopping at random points in the print and sounding the alarm. It will have a message that says nozzle or bed temp is too high/low. I just got a new pack of thermistors. Have you had this issue or have any guidance for me? Thanks.
I should have added it's a voxelab aquila and Ive had many successful prints. This issue has started in the past week
Very common issue. It’s the thermistor. Sometimes it needs to be reseated. Sometimes it needs to be replaced. They are just not a quality item on these.
I don't understand the relationship between material settings in cura, .curaprofile files and the preheating settings in the machine itself. Can anyone explain? Thanks!
what table do you have for your aquila is it the Ikea LACK 55x55?
Try using a lighter just to burn that glue off. Or just a light sanding on a flat surface with wet/dry fine grit.
Nice. Thanks.
I have a question or two. I want to print ABS but I am concerned about the gases or VOC. Is it safe, or the brand you used safe? Does the tube have off gassing? I purchased the tube you suggested in another vid. And thanks for posting all these vids. I have learned alot and use a couple of your profiles, and parts you suggested.
I too have been concerned. That’s probably why I waited so long to print abs. This stuff had no smell. However, if you plan on printing it a bunch, I’d do the tube at a minimum.
I asked you this on your open box video. I am considering ordering this printer will it be able to print 10.5in by 6.5in by 2 inches if I lay the object diagonally? I will also want to also use ABS so this video was helpful Thanks
Sometimes these printers stubble going edge to edge. To keep that in mind. You can always buy an Ender extender and make the printing space larger
Stock nozzle or steel ? Eventually I want to print cf nylon
Steel nozzle. The cf will chew through the brass.
Did you need to change over to a hardened nozzle for ABS or is it fine with the standard brass?
It’s fine with copper. Just hotter and more abrasive filaments destroy these copper nozzles quick.
I wouldn't recommend 300, the ptfe will start breaking down slowly. 275 should be safe no problem with any of the high temp ptfe tubes.
Just remember the gas released by burning ptfe is a nerve agent. Not something I'd recommend getting close to.
Yes, I’m just saying the ptfe tubes go up to 300. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS they still offgas above 250, their ad copy says as much
It’s probably best to get a hotend that an all metal heatbreak. Then you don’t have to worry about it. Especially if you’re planning on doing more than a few prints at high temps.
Hello again, I have a question for you.
How can i change the position of where the head goes when it is done printing. It goes a few mm over the place it stops now i would like a X-10 Y-200 and Z about 20mm above the stop point.
Thank you for your knowledge!
You can add some “end gcode” to your slicer that tells the printer what to do at the end. You should be able to find all kinds of options based on the Ender 3.
@@3DPrintSOS Thank you!
I keep having problems with leveling, No matter how hard I try I feel like I cant get it to level right, what are some tips tthat you have? Also is bad to pause the print and touch the print bed?
My advice would be to level it the best you can once and start a print. While it’s printing the first layer, slowly adjust the knobs until it’s sticking and perfect. Then restart the print.
feeler gauges. ruclips.net/user/results?search_query=bed+level+with+feeler+guages.
Paper is inconsistent with how much force or drag you get. feeler gauge will fit or it wont.
How did you change the seam location?
In Cura, above all the settings there is a search bar, type in “seam” and it should just show you all of the seam options. In the drop down you can select “user selection” and then you can tell it exactly where you want the seam. I tend to like to put it in the back somewhere or tell it to hide the seam in sharpest corner.
You can you the bed plate on either side?
Yup. If you don’t like the textured, you can just flip it and get a shiny mirror like glass finish.
How do you open/use the profile? I opened the link in your description, it downloaded to my computer, but I cant open it.
Do you get an error? If you setup your printer in Cura by selecting one from a list, my profiles won’t work. You have to set it up as a custom machine. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS I think that might be my issues. I am using the Ender profile in Cura. I will try setting up the custom. Thanks!
Alright, super close. I got them (Pet-G, PLA, ABS) all downloaded and onto Cura. Im noticing that the fan speed does not auto adjust to your settings. Is that something that I need to do manually, or am I doing something wrong. The ABS and Petg are not sticking well, and I realized after the fact that the fan speeds were not correct.
Honestly, never heard of that being an issue. You could always set your fans and save over the profile though. Interesting find. Wonder if this is common and no one noticed.
Great video. Just what I was looking for.
One thing though, in the "Show more" option under this video, you have a link to download the PETG profile, and it downloads an ABS zip file, and extracts a PLA profile. Am I doing this wrong?
Woa. That’s quite the issue. Let me check on that! Also, huge thanks for the dono. ;)
Not sure what happened there. But it should be abs text, with an abs.zip, that unzips an abs profile. Haha.
What would you replace the nozzle fan with ? Like you, I did the Winsinn for the hotend and the motherboard
If I had to, I’d print a duct that let me use a 5050 blower. I’d get a MagLev from Sunnon. That fan is amazing, not quiet, but amazing.
what was the infill on the print?
I have to buy abs now
I am having issues with ABS. I can get decent prints, but only using the provided profile and using a brim and setting print speed to 55% or 60%. I also have to keep my Z-offset set to -0.02 or the filament won't stick. It balls up/clumps and then breaks loose and continues with the brim. My mitigation technique is basically once the bed is as level as I can get it, while printing the 1st pass at the brim, take my cutters and snip the balled up ABS away from the brim while making sure not to lift the print (I still get some lift, about 1 or 2 mm and I can pat it down and it sticks after 1 more passes).
Is there any way to prevent the printer from balling up a few mm of ABS when it first lays down the brim? Will glue stick help here? I am using the texture side of the build plate without glue.
Glue stick will help for sure. It’s about how fast the plastic cools in this case. Are you using an enclosure? If not, make a makeshift one out of a box and test to see if that helps.
@@3DPrintSOS I was able to get my results using an enclosure, just a cheap one from Amazon. Before trying the enclosure, my ABS prints would mess up worse than that. I am part of the way through a ABS print now and the brim is starting to curl/lift. The brim is large enough so that the item I am printing shouldn't have any issues. I'll see in about 8 hours what the print looks like and if there are any major issues.
Put some tape on the brim to save it from curling more
So-- I upgraded to cura 4.9 and I can't get octolapse to run on either ender or voxelab.. what have I done" Some slicer settings were missing from your gcode file. Missing Settings: Retraction Length,Retraction Speed,Deretraction Speed,Z Lift Height,X/Y Travel Speed,Z Travel Speed"
A few people are reporting problems with the latest update. I would try to get a hold of version 4.8
@@3DPrintSOS The Devils Lettuce solved the problem!
I Think I am going to build that guys crazy fast printer-- lets get a group buy from ali for parts!!!
Thats one of the reasons I use Ideamaker ...there is always some issue when they upgrade cura .
I've been able to skip glue by using blue painters tape on the bed. It wasn't sticking to my smooth Prusa surface even with glue. It stuck to the tape no problem though.
I gotta grab some super wide tape to do some testing. Thanks.
@@3DPrintSOS I just had a standard one, did about 3 strips since my print was mostly center of the build plate.
use an acetone vapor smoothing it'll give it glasslike finish with abs.
I am worried about using ABS on budget printers as high heat can cause issues to the hardware faster than normal
That’s likely the case. However at these prices, replacement parts are as cheap as they come. The cool part is also the downside I guess. You can print things like this on such cheap equipment. It just wasn’t possible even a few years ago. That’s pretty cool.
I use pei springsteel to print abs and covered with a clear garbage bag as an enclosure. I ued 1.5kg of esun abs+ and no flaw.....printing a voron project 2.4 in 3 colors
Hi Could you name the core stl that need to be printed
Because I am just lost in the STL’s cuz there is so much to go thru. Thanks heaps
Whenever I have a big project I make a “to be printed” folder and a “printed” one. Then I try to drag them as soon as they are done.
Are you running the glass bed upside down for a reason?
He did mention during the video that it can be one of the things to experiment with for better adhesion with this material (i.e., ABS)
I run the bare glass side for better adhesion with pla. At least in my experience. I do this on al of my machines. However, as you saw in the video, it wasn’t perfect for abs.
Bro I Need Your Help asap please am about 30 min away from my filament running out on me had a print that took 1 day and 5 hours to complete with 4 more hours to go
. i got a new roll of filament , i just need to know how to change it safely please if you can comment on best advise
Well two ways to do this, one would be a pause. However when you do a pause the printer doesn’t always pull the head away from the print. Which means, it will melt and pool filament in the place it stopped. Your best bet is to cut the filament and be there, ready to feed the new roll. You have to try to do that without squeezing the level much or else the filament won’t Extrude.
Also, if there is an area of infill, that is where I would do it.
@@3DPrintSOS THANSK bro what about cutting the power off would that work ?
The downsides there are, if the head moves at all, it won’t start up in the same spot. Also, the nozzle will still be super hot and will ruin where’ver it rests.
Your best bet is to cut the filament off, and be right there with the new strand feeding it right after the cut part.
Did you have to change any settings when splicing?
Yep. You have to update a few settings or use one of my profiles. :)
@@3DPrintSOS thanks man! Il try that tomorrow
🙏🏼🔥
Can we use Silk PLA with voxy..??
If yes what about material set up.?
Oh yea for sure. I’ve done a few large projects with silk. Just the standard pla profile has been great.
@@3DPrintSOS thank u 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Did you turn off the fans...?
The cooling fan is off. Yes.
Careful with the off gassing
Speaking facts. Ptfe tube is a must. Probably will be my next video.
What temperatures do you set PETG on your Aquila?
Check out the PETG video. I have a profile included that you can use.
@@3DPrintSOS I have done that already but my computer is having issues with reading the file. I don't have the right software to read the file, nor can I find it.
Total noob question, but how do you adjust the flow of the filament?
You can adjust it in Cura before you slice. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS if your e steps are right, but the actual filament laid is wrong do you modify the flow?
@@3DPrintSOS does it make sense i went from 93 to 96 steps when all i did was change colour from the same brand
Exactly. Flow is how you calibrate the filament, esteps are how you calibrate your extruder.
I keep getting an error when i try to import the abs profile into Cura it says could not find a container to handle specified file. ho to i get this profile to Cura I have some parts i need to print. Thanks.
I’ve heard of this before. Are you using a different printer profile?
@@3DPrintSOS i have been using your PLA profile from your video. I have only used PLA so far. I am using the voxelab aquila printer also.
Hmm what about the printer setup in Cura. Did you do it similarly to how I did in the vid or did you pick one from a list?
@@3DPrintSOS I did it exactly how you did in the video. I also tried updating cura to the new version I believe it's 4.9 also but that didn't help either. I still get the same error message.
@@3DPrintSOS hey i finally got it to import to Cura. I havnt tried to print yet but, I was trying to import it as a material profile instead of another printer profile I think thats here i as having the trouble. Thanks for your replies though I appreciate your time. Ill let you know if I run into any more problems. Thanks again.
How do you keep it from extruding during warm up, I can’t figure it out, and it screws up my first layer and sometimes the whole print
That’s normal. As the hotend gets hot, the plastic melts and begins to slowly ooze. This is why I print with a brim or skirt. It allows you to purge some plastic from the hot end before the actual print. You will have to watch it and pull off any extruded plastic before it starts to print.
@@3DPrintSOS thank you!
Cura puts a prime line by default for this reason
Tubing link doesn't work.
Yep, looks like Tecboss ran out of stock. I tried to contact them with no luck. Capricorn is the next best thing: amzn.to/2XooE4Z
@@3DPrintSOS Thank You
@@3DPrintSOS I very much appreciate your replies. I am so close to getting a Voxlab Aquila X2. I am able to get one on ebay for $199 but I need to print with ASA. I have seen the mods you suggest such as the PTFE tubing and I assume it is much the same as or easier than ABS. I understand about having an enclosure and that doesn't concern me other than with the fans turned off the heat would damage the electronics, What do you think of the idea of removing the power supply from its mounts and extending it outside the enclosure?
Although I haven’t tried asa yet, I would think with a nozzle, ptfe tube, or all metal heatbreak, you should be able to get it done.
If that’s what you plan on doing long term, I would totally move the power supply outside the enclosure. You would only have to extend a few wires. Wouldn’t be too too hard.
@@3DPrintSOS I'm learning in large part to you. Especially concerning the Aquila. When you say All Metal Heatbreak". Do you mean the $4 metal piece or the whole hot end assy? As, these mods add up in cost one has to consider whether there is a machine already geared toward ASA/ABS at a comparable price. All the enclosed printers seem way over priced in comparison. All the reviews for the Voxlab are good.
I have this question submitted to Voxlab but have not yet heard back.
No enclosure?
Nope. Printed right on the rack there. :)
I am building an enclosure and moving the printer to the garage, its not worth your health to print abs, asa ,nylon, etc in the house
Good for you, Gary. Smart.
Nice print. What about the fumes, though? Did you loose some brain cells on this print? Haha.
And won’t this cook the ptfe lining in the hotend?
Haha. I might have but I didn’t notice. Zero smell from this stuff. I was expecting it to be like resin. That stuff kills me. So, I was pleasantly surprised. Yes, you need a high temp ptfe tube. Tecboss links in description
Could you help me set up my printer?
I’m sure I can help a bit.
Can you do bl toch video on voxelab aqila
Honestly ...nobody needs a BLtouch on such a small build plate .
I’m definitely in that camp. So many people request it though. I’m torn on the idea because I can likely teach people how to live without it. Maybe that will be more useful that teaching people how to use it.
This printer has been driving me crazy! I have not been able to get anything to print correctly 🤬
Hmm. Any more detail? Maybe we can help.
@@3DPrintSOS I did finally have a good print after readjusting the bed for the 100th time. However, when I try to print something other than the test files I get trash. The filament seems not adhere to the surface in some places. Then on a subsequent layer the loose filament on the bed is getting stuck on the nozzle. When the nozzle moves it pulls up the rest of the layer(s) from the bed. I was gonna try glue stick and masking tape. I'm using the PLA sample that came with the Aquila. But it's almost out, so I will have to switch to the PETG spool I have.
Try to clean the bed really really really well. Also try flipping it to the glass side as well as doing a live leveling.
@@3DPrintSOS I did clean the bed with soap and hot water. Then, dried. Then, went over it with isopropyl alcohol. I did get a print to stick after adding glue stick the bed, but it seems to need to washed off and reapplied after every job, and it doesn't work for all jobs. Got a different bed mat to try out So I don't have to dick around with the glue.
I just got finished doing the steel extruder and the Teflon tube mods. Will be doing the fans on my next day off.
Nice. Before you switch the print plate, try doing a live leveling technique. You should be able to easily get pla to stick to glass without issue. It’s gotta be a leveling or temperature issue.