Quick tip aswell, you can also buy 400x400 picture frames for dirt cheap. Disassemble it and you've got yourself a thin glass sheet that fits perfectly.
I can't say how excited this video made me today! Just last week I was watching my Aquila print away and I was looking at the extruded aluminum parts and though to myself, I bet I could make this bigger.... But I didn't take it beyond that. Now it seems plenty of people have, and I am totally jazzed! Thanks for putting this up. I can't wait to see more on this. I will of course have to opt for the extended Z axis as well. I mean if I am going to go bigger, why not GO BIGGER? LOL! Thanks again, I love this channel. Cheers!
even a beginner should buy it before installing have it put up until you feel comfortable with the machine this way you have the kit for later and not worry about it being discontinued and cant find it anymore.
Every time you upload a video I'm just blown away at how much this printer can do! Thanks for the really great video, I have a whole list of things I want to do to my Aquila
Considering how much research I've recently done into longer extrusions and finding a larger bed heater, this video answers more questions than I even thought to consider. Wiring extensions would be a major concern. One of the very few frustrations I've had with my Aquila is that I keep designing things slightly larger than 220mm in size. Not a lot, just a little outside the bounding box. Problem solved! :)
Just order the kit, and going to order the z axis 500 as well. This is way cheaper then buying the cr 10 5. Now I should be able to print mask with no issues.
I would upgrade the Y axis stepper motor with 42-40 or 42-48. I actually did that to my regular Aquila, I put in a 42-48, you get way more torque because you're moving more mass, that's why those steppers run hot. I cranked the vref up and its perfectly cool! same with dual Z axis, i increased the voltage from the main board screws, not super necessary, but as for these double wide kits and that long gantry arm, the sag must be real.
400mm x 400mm is tiny... I built a 1220mm x 1220mm with a KILLER heated bed! 1220mm needs BIG fast steppers. the system operates at 48V on the extruder and steppers and 60V on the heated bed
Would be nice if you could make a video that will address the necessary upgrades and tweaks needed in firmware and cura or anything els following this build...
I’d love to. First things first, I want to put it through its paces to be sure I can recommend it. Spoiler, just took off a massive 36 hour print. And it’s great.
@@3DPrintSOS Hahaha, I run my CR 6 SE and CR 10 S anywhere from 30 to 120 hours at a time. When I get this upgrade voxelab done I got one print that will take 172 hours and that is only half of the print. and its only 0.8 tall lol.
I would really want 2 bed rails with a platform that size. I would imagine it could have a lot of inconsistencies for leveling with all of the added surface area
I think my v slot wheels and the holes for them were a bit off (gotta love crealitys quality control) causing my bed to be super wonky (even after endlessly trying to tune the eccentric nuts and replace v slot wheels). So yeah I've upgraded to linear rails using the printer mod kit which has helped massively where the stability of the bed is moving perfectly moving on the Y but it's still fair wonky. I've decided to go all out and try mimic the y axis of the rat rig v-cast (two linear rails on the edge and a centre belt. And yes I'm well aware this is overkill haha.
15 and a half inches. WOW! What in the world are you going to fill that bed up with? This is the printer you need that Zodiac printhead on. With a bed this size you sure don't want a failure due to a knockoff printhead after climbing 200mm in zed. This is going to be a Cosplay printer for sure. One piece helmets and chestplates come to mind right off. My LK1 can print helmets one piece, but yeah, 3.5 more inches square on a printbed is a lot of real estate. I would put a cadillac antibacklash nut on the screw and keep the eccentirc a little tight on the un screwed side. should print fine with no sag at all. Nice video as usual Fedor. Happy printing I am so pleased to learn that Voxelab is releasing their sourcecodes for the firmware. Especially for you Aries folks. Too late for me I bought a Saphire pro.
I got the BLTouch, the dual Z and I'm waiting for the AC heating element. I've got a 300x300 printer for now that's working out, but a friend of mine is willing to pay to be able to print bigger stuff. I've already worked out placement on the bed, diagonal works out great and the 250 isn't an issue at all... the part he wants is 150 at most in height. I don't think I would do it without a dual Z though.
Do a test, something like a tall cylinder. If you see layer lines, then try dual z. I did some adjusting to the wheels and I can get pretty clean prints with a single side.
I had a creality cr10s and just swapped the motherboard and display with a voxelab aquila I bought online. Just flashed the firmware and it prints pretty good
A good idea would be to plan it out like were it's going to go having a auto bed level were you're going to get the firmware things like that to avoid headaches in the future
I havent been sucessful loading the right firmware and had I realized the screen needs different firmware I would never have bought, I am converting back , just a PAIN
The screen gets a graphics update. It’s super easy to do. I have a few video guides on how to do it. Anything specific I can help you with? It’s a one and done type of deal.
My biggest concern would be that the Aquila is quite slow, having 4x the build area will mean some very slow prints for large prints. I think you should investigate improving the bearings and possibly the motors to see if you can make things a bit speedier.
@@3DPrintSOS If they get their firmware together which it seems they are the Aries "should" be their answer for speed. There are ways to speed the Aquila's printing ability. It just takes time and calibration and klipper and yeah, knowledge. Which comes with time. There are some kids on discord that are useing klipper and I believe they are getting 80mm/s. My flash has never been passed 60. And these are H-bots.
@@3DPrintSOS - OK - so I finally got it and have installed it. Overall - not too many problems, but one HUGE one that I can't figure out. Have an Aquila X2, but my bed travels so far back on the Y axis before the stop switch triggers - that my print head actually is IN FRONT of the bed when trying to Auto Home at 0,0.... Any ideas?? Thanks again for such a great video!
That’s ok. The end stops don’t need to be at zero zero as long as they are defined properly in your firmware. Once you start a print, it’ll go to where you need it to. :)
I don't know if you remember me. I was the guy who could not install alexqzd firmware. I got a friend with a better computer than mine. We finally got it to work. Thank you so very much. I was wondering if you could make a video about the functions it has?
@@3DPrintSOS I've been known to have those on occasion. Not often enough tho. Usually my good ideas are a little out there and not particularly practical LOL
Awesome, but also remember one very important fact....Naturally , as things get higher, gravity takes over,and may not be stable as a shorter frame...Means ,vibrations, unstability..and weaker frame all together....m
For sure. All things to improve upon over time. But at the moment, I can’t think of another way to get in on such a large volume at such a low cost. Might not be the best, but it’s a way for sure.
Still loving my semi-stock X2 but really want to go bigger. These kits are running 200, plus youll need to get the glass. Should i kick out the money for this or go with a whole new unit? I think you can get a 400x400 for around 350-400 now a few different brands.
A year and a half ago, I wouldn't even hesitate, but there are a ton of options out there now. Like I mentioned, I still had a ton of fine with mine but you have to want to do it. If that makes sense.
@@3DPrintSOS It does make sense. Why fix it if it's working perfect. I believe I will keep it for a smaller print printer. Possibly thinking about getting the Anycubic kobra max. When it's on sale it is not terribly expensive at all.
Thanks for all the informative videos! After watching this - I purchased the same kit for my Aquila (first gen). Would you friend be willing to share / compile code? G32 with CR Touch ;)
I got all the hardware done and just finishing up the wiring as we speak, however, I was hoping to find a link for the firmware to change the bed size. Do I do that in the G code terminal? I already got the BL touch firmware installed, not sure if its going to work with the larger bed though. One thing to keep in not, if you go 500mm on the Z height, consider getting some 40/40 600mm from that site as well and use the side rails to know where to drill your holes to make longer legs, as well I used elbow brackets on the top front and back on each side and on the bottom legs with a steal cable wire and a adjuster on each one to stabilize the z from swinging while printing, as well as move the spoole to the side of the unit. It maxs out my Ikia table.
I have it linked at the bottom of my Linktree link as well as in the description. Thanks for the tip! I’m going to still with the short setup for now or maybe something just a hair taller. Not by much though.
@@3DPrintSOS Hate to say it, but I don't see that link anywhere for the firmware, I've went up and down all the links before the comments and the vid and no link to it. must be a secret link that a blind person like me can't see. . I've just bought the timing belt and pullies for my setup as well. want to make sure both z screws rotate correctly.
thanks for the video went and ordered one for my aquila just wanted to no if i need to update the firmware on aquila or will changing bed size in cura work it has the alex`s firmware on it that you showed in the firmware update video you did .if it needs a firmware update could you direct me to where i can get it please
Did you have to do any firmware updates to get the printer to actually USE the extra space, or was it always able to but the switches stopped it? Sorry I am literally JUST getting into this, literally only just order my first Aquila C2 yesterday. 😂
HELP!! Have the 400xl on my Aquila but the Jyers firmware will only bed level in 235x235 stock bed size. If I slice in cura on a 400x400 buildplate it will print, but wont auto bed level or run a mesh bed leveling. Ive also tried to compile the firmware from source code, but it crashes during the build process in Visual Studios 😕
I have an Aquila with a couple of mods, I'm on the hunt for a second printer now. Would you rather do this Ender extender mod to an Aquila, or just buy a CR10 or Longer that is already larger? I print ABS, so I'm worried the bed plate won't be right when adding the larger plate, to heat up the enclosure too.
Depends on what you want really. If you like to customize stuff, the Extender is great. But don’t do it to your only printer. If you have the budget, the mingda magician max is good, the longer LK5 Pro is decent (I’m selling one at a discount in my discord). For ABS, you’d have to do the same stuff as you would on a smaller machine. Make sure your hotend can get that hot and keep the printer either enclosed or in a room with very little to no moving air.
@@3DPrintSOS I have an E3d V6 clone with a metal heat break, an enclosure, I moved the electronics out of the enclosure. I have not done ABS yet but I have been printing Polylite PC, I'm hoping ABS is at least the same but I can vapor smooth it. It would be a second printer, thinking about picking up a not new one off Amazon, then adding the 400xl kit to it with the same mods and a .8 or 1mm nozzle. Looks like I would be in the 4-500 range enclosed and all, which is why I have been considering it.
@@3DPrintSOS off topic, your videos have been EXTREMELY helpful for those of us with these Aquila's. You're quite good at the informational RUclips segment, comfortable on camera, clear, but not so detailed that a moron like me can't understand. I watch a few of the "big time" 3d printing RUclipsrs and I consider your videos to be just as well done, so thank you for spending so much time on these printers.
Hey Fedor thanks for another informative, interesting video! Has the X axis been OK with the added length? Almost seems you would need a dual Z with the doubled length of X axis.. Good luck!
So far yes. It’s really not that much weight being added. I mean, dual z would be great, but so far, not a problem. I’m not printing fast enough for it to matter. Only 50mms
@3DPrintSOS do you know if the 300xl for the v2 will work for the Aquila, because I think the 400xl is to big and the regular 300 for the Aquila is to short?
Ah, honestly I didn’t know that! But the kits are not the same. The Aquila has different mounting points. They aren’t direct clones. So, I’m not sure the Ender kit would fit without modifications.
Considering buying extender kit for my Ender 3 V2.. Would you still recommend this kit? I know a core xy printer is going to be better than a big "bed slinger" ... I also have a Ender 3 S1, I wouldn't recommend to anyone, and a Anycubic I3 Mega I got for $50 off marketplace, that sadly works better than the new S1 I purchased. Or should I sell the S1 and Anycubic and just buy a core xy printer? The only reason I consider this for my Ender 3 V2 is because it prints damn near perfect every time. Thanks!
Did you hook yours up differently from the directions? I'm watching and see stuff done differently, which I'm not disagreeing but is their a better way?
@@3DPrintSOS you were messing in the silver box, I didn't have that in my instructions. It would be cool if you post the build video so one can watch it step by step. I'm having such a hard time with the directions I got with it 😞
Ah the power supply. Yeah I think I just went out of order a bit because I was excited. I made some mistakes during the wiring too. You can always head to their discord or Facebook group and get help directly. That might be better because I can’t really take mine apart for a video at the moment
I notice it looks like you have a CR Touch on there. I have been trying to find someone saying if it would work with the Voxelab Aquila X2 without having to do a ton of extra work. Does it just go one just like it would an Ender 3?
Yes and no. Some people with H32 machines have had issues. However if you have a g32 or n32 machine, you could run Alex’s firmware and it works great. I have a video on it. ;)
No sag, has been great actually. I just had to adjust the wheels and take my time squaring the frame. I’ve printed short and I’ve printed tall. No z related issues
@@3DPrintSOS nice, thanks. i got the kit just recently and i was looking for the firmware, unfortunately i failed in compiling it my self, thanks for the kit recommendation as well, i watch your videos often.
@@3DPrintSOSPlease forgive my ignorance here as I fumble though all the information. I'm a bit confused. Is it required to update the firmware? I have the N32 and no CR/BL touch. Doesn't changing the build plate setting in Cura allow you to just power on and print?
Sorry to comment on an older video, but just wanted to ask is this the Voxelab Aquila C2 model then? And would you recommend that model over the X2 or S2? Would this upgrade work with any of the Aquila line up?
No this is not the c2. Although I have a specific video on the c2. The x2 and S2 are far superior over the c2. The c2 has an h32 motherboard with loud stepper drivers. You also get a very old school screen. I would recommend any other Aquila.
It should be right above the checkout button after you put in your info. It’s a blue text link, you click it and it expands to let you type in a code. :)
I'm looking to purchase the kit but I'm apprehensive about the firmware. I have N32 firmware stock from Voxelab but will I have to start using custom firmware for the kit to work or can I just change my profile in Cura or Prusa?
The stock firmware has soft stops at Max width. So, you’ll need firmware. Luckily, it’s not too hard. A bunch is provided by Ender Extender via their GitHub. ;)
Does it come with the new to size heater? I would like to see a linear rail version of this kit. If I could get my hands on the prints or solid models of the machine, would be happy to design the conversion.
No, you use the stock one. And it actually works just fine. I bet if you add insulation, it’ll be perfectly fine. You could easily do rails because it’s still and Ender clone at the end of the day. So you should be able to add parts super easily.
@@3DPrintSOS - was just thinking a longer linear in the X axis from McMaster would be all you would need, from there you can adapt out to any hot end on the market or a direct drive
@@3DPrintSOS - Thank you for all that you do! I have been using commercial 3D printers for years, but am new to the hobby, we all very much appreciate your helpful and insightful videos
There should be a section on their site. If not, you can message them for it. I’ve also seen them on GitHub. Or you can always just compile your own Marlin just with a larger bed size.
Any tips on getting prints to stick to a glass build plate? I have my bed levelled, nozzle height tuned in for a good 'squish' first layer, but prints still come detached during print.
Go 5 degrees higher on the bed temp, clean it suuuuper well with isopropyl alcohol. If that fails you can use glue stick on a cold bed. However, that’s just a bandaid for a problem that can be fixed. It’s typically a temperature, or leveling issue.
Ender Extender has specific kits for specific printers. Ender 3 is what started it all, so there should be a bunch of options. No, not a direct drive but one can easily be added
I was watching your fan vid and was wondering why does the 60 have a quiet option but not the 40 also is there a difference between rgb vs non rgb I did post it on that video but thought it had a better chance of being answered here
I just followed some pdf instructions. Video would have been an hour long. I DO want to get into live assembly though. That way people can follow along or with
Would the Z-axis 500 extender kit work with this as well? was their any firmware update needed on Alex's firmware? Or did you just have to update the volume in cura for the printer?
Yep it would work. Man, that would be HUGE! Haha. My buddy pulled Alex’s source code and changed 220mm to 400mm in the firmware and recompiled for me. You need to do it in the firmware for mesh leveling to work properly.
@@3DPrintSOS good to know! I can't wait for more updates on this project you've got going! I've been interested in a larger build system and depending on I might drop the money on both kits just to beef up build capacity so I don't have to slice up large projects as much!!
Is there any way you could do an in depth setup for the aquila? I've had non stop problems with mine such as, stringing, shifting, just absolutely everything that can go wrong has gone wrong.
@@3DPrintSOS right off the bat when I purchased and received my Aquila I have had over 100 emails with customer service. I had a bad motherboard then a bad extruder then even up to the power supply. I'm no expert at this stuff so it kind of helped fixing everything. I did the new fan conversion you had a video on put in a bl touch. But my printer doesn't work right. Cura us usually my go to but it seems to be off. The printer has been slipping every print. I've checked belts and they are perfect. I have excessive stringing on all my prints and I've noticed they aren't very accurate. I'm using petg since it's my favorite and I'm printing at 240 70. Just non stop issues as you can see. Any help would be wonderful.
Join the discord server and make a post in troubleshooting. That was multiple people can help and you can post pictures to help us diagnose the issue. :)
Quick tip aswell, you can also buy 400x400 picture frames for dirt cheap. Disassemble it and you've got yourself a thin glass sheet that fits perfectly.
Smart! Thanks for that.
I can't say how excited this video made me today! Just last week I was watching my Aquila print away and I was looking at the extruded aluminum parts and though to myself, I bet I could make this bigger.... But I didn't take it beyond that. Now it seems plenty of people have, and I am totally jazzed! Thanks for putting this up. I can't wait to see more on this. I will of course have to opt for the extended Z axis as well. I mean if I am going to go bigger, why not GO BIGGER? LOL! Thanks again, I love this channel. Cheers!
Go big or go home!!! Haha. 😂
Thank you Fedor, I don't think I'm quite ready for this, the rewiring is the thing I'm afraid of.
That's gonna make some BIG prints!!
Me too, I would super appreciate if he made a essential tool kit video and everything he uses!
That’s in my list of vids/shorts to make. ;)
If you poke around the Ender Extender site, there's all kinds of wiring extensions they offer that either add on or replace your existing wiring.
even a beginner should buy it before installing have it put up until you feel comfortable with the machine this way you have the kit for later and not worry about it being discontinued and cant find it anymore.
True. If the goal is to eventually have a bigger machine and you want to learn on the smaller machine first, it’s a good solution.
Every time you upload a video I'm just blown away at how much this printer can do! Thanks for the really great video, I have a whole list of things I want to do to my Aquila
Great platform! Pretty versatile, if you ask me.
Stand back guys. He just went big time on us. ;)
There’s more where that came from! ;)
Mine just came in yesterday!!! I got it in lew of flowers for valentine's day lol 😆
Nice!!
Considering how much research I've recently done into longer extrusions and finding a larger bed heater, this video answers more questions than I even thought to consider. Wiring extensions would be a major concern.
One of the very few frustrations I've had with my Aquila is that I keep designing things slightly larger than 220mm in size. Not a lot, just a little outside the bounding box. Problem solved! :)
This gives you sooooo much real-estate!
If you poke around the Ender Extender site, there's all kinds of wiring extensions they offer that either add on or replace your existing wiring.
Just order the kit, and going to order the z axis 500 as well. This is way cheaper then buying the cr 10 5. Now I should be able to print mask with no issues.
That’s awesome!
Please share your upgrade and results when you do!
I like the mini Fedor that pops up from time to time!
Haha. Figured I’d show off my little friend. Lol
I would upgrade the Y axis stepper motor with 42-40 or 42-48. I actually did that to my regular Aquila, I put in a 42-48, you get way more torque because you're moving more mass, that's why those steppers run hot. I cranked the vref up and its perfectly cool!
same with dual Z axis, i increased the voltage from the main board screws, not super necessary, but as for these double wide kits and that long gantry arm, the sag must be real.
Haven’t had issues either the Y but I have a few steppers laying around I could use if that’s the case. Dual z I can see would be a benefit though.
Need that review...thanks for the video
Love that roll of gold printing at the end, reminds me of my Overture PETG.
400mm x 400mm is tiny... I built a 1220mm x 1220mm with a KILLER heated bed! 1220mm needs BIG fast steppers. the system operates at 48V on the extruder and steppers and 60V on the heated bed
Woah. That’s big.
Only thing it's missing is more Cow Bell! BAM!
😂
I don't need a 400 x 400 but...I really do want one! Great video man! Creating some solid content!
I appreciate that. :)
Would be nice if you could make a video that will address the necessary upgrades and tweaks needed in firmware and cura or anything els following this build...
I’d love to. First things first, I want to put it through its paces to be sure I can recommend it. Spoiler, just took off a massive 36 hour print. And it’s great.
@@3DPrintSOS Hahaha, I run my CR 6 SE and CR 10 S anywhere from 30 to 120 hours at a time. When I get this upgrade voxelab done I got one print that will take 172 hours and that is only half of the print. and its only 0.8 tall lol.
I would really want 2 bed rails with a platform that size. I would imagine it could have a lot of inconsistencies for leveling with all of the added surface area
So far, no leveling issues. Solid bed springs would help.
Yeah, I am curious to see if you have any issues when you print something much larger.
Just printed a massive 36 hour print. Awesome so far. Going to try an even larger print now.
I think my v slot wheels and the holes for them were a bit off (gotta love crealitys quality control) causing my bed to be super wonky (even after endlessly trying to tune the eccentric nuts and replace v slot wheels).
So yeah I've upgraded to linear rails using the printer mod kit which has helped massively where the stability of the bed is moving perfectly moving on the Y but it's still fair wonky.
I've decided to go all out and try mimic the y axis of the rat rig v-cast (two linear rails on the edge and a centre belt.
And yes I'm well aware this is overkill haha.
Dude.....you're telling me about can print armor pieces and full helmets in one go. IM IN!!! I'm so in.
Yep. ;)
15 and a half inches. WOW! What in the world are you going to fill that bed up with? This is the printer you need that Zodiac printhead on. With a bed this size you sure don't want a failure due to a knockoff printhead after climbing 200mm in zed. This is going to be a Cosplay printer for sure. One piece helmets and chestplates come to mind right off. My LK1 can print helmets one piece, but yeah, 3.5 more inches square on a printbed is a lot of real estate. I would put a cadillac antibacklash nut on the screw and keep the eccentirc a little tight on the un screwed side. should print fine with no sag at all. Nice video as usual Fedor. Happy printing I am so pleased to learn that Voxelab is releasing their sourcecodes for the firmware. Especially for you Aries folks. Too late for me I bought a Saphire pro.
This thing is massive. I want to print some of my keyboard case designs. This will be perfect for it
Holy mother of printers aight definitely getting this!!
That’s how I felt the first time I saw it. Still use it almost daily.
that is awesome.
I've joined the discord and watch all your videos I have learned so much from you and now I'm an addict to 3d printing
It’s a gift and a curse. Haha. :)
@@3DPrintSOS I think I may try the full 400×400×400 upgrade but could I use the cr10 firmware?
I got the BLTouch, the dual Z and I'm waiting for the AC heating element. I've got a 300x300 printer for now that's working out, but a friend of mine is willing to pay to be able to print bigger stuff. I've already worked out placement on the bed, diagonal works out great and the 250 isn't an issue at all... the part he wants is 150 at most in height. I don't think I would do it without a dual Z though.
Do a test, something like a tall cylinder. If you see layer lines, then try dual z. I did some adjusting to the wheels and I can get pretty clean prints with a single side.
I had a creality cr10s and just swapped the motherboard and display with a voxelab aquila I bought online. Just flashed the firmware and it prints pretty good
IWaaaantOne!!! I guess I found my Christmas present 😉
Why wait? Don’t let your dreams be dreams.
@@3DPrintSOS Its a Sadomaso thing , you know 😉😂
That's awesome, I may have to consider that for my Aquila. Thanks for the video.
A good idea would be to plan it out like were it's going to go having a auto bed level were you're going to get the firmware things like that to avoid headaches in the future
just bought one and your code still works :D
Awesome. Glad to hear it.
@@3DPrintSOS So got a question.. I got the extender setup and was just wondering if you knew how to edit the marlin firmware for a 400x400 bed?
You have to make those changes by combining the files. I do think you can some compiles versions even
@@3DPrintSOS ended up finding a compiled version from your discord actually! Just gotta fix the homing issue and level the bed and should be good
Super excited
I havent been sucessful loading the right firmware and had I realized the screen needs different firmware I would never have bought, I am converting back , just a PAIN
The screen gets a graphics update. It’s super easy to do. I have a few video guides on how to do it. Anything specific I can help you with? It’s a one and done type of deal.
wow….i was looking at this kit a couple of days ago! i think i’ll wait, i might need a bigger house 😂
Just print a bigger one! ;)
Great video, great advise regarding getting some time in with the printer you already have, and yes read the instructions ( lol )
Haha yes. I saw the ferrules and got excited, started cutting. Then later on it clicked. Sadly the camera wasn’t on my face for the realization. 😂
My biggest concern would be that the Aquila is quite slow, having 4x the build area will mean some very slow prints for large prints. I think you should investigate improving the bearings and possibly the motors to see if you can make things a bit speedier.
I agree. However if you want fast, I don’t think the Aquila is a good starting point.
@@3DPrintSOS If they get their firmware together which it seems they are the Aries "should" be their answer for speed. There are ways to speed the Aquila's printing ability. It just takes time and calibration and klipper and yeah, knowledge. Which comes with time. There are some kids on discord that are useing klipper and I believe they are getting 80mm/s. My flash has never been passed 60. And these are H-bots.
I want an extender for my aquila x2
As long as it’s not a H32 machine, you should be good.
@@3DPrintSOS x2 is a N32
HOLY CRAP - WHAAAAAT??!! I"m IN!!!! Thanks!!!
Heck yea! 🤘🏼
@@3DPrintSOS - OK - so I finally got it and have installed it. Overall - not too many problems, but one HUGE one that I can't figure out. Have an Aquila X2, but my bed travels so far back on the Y axis before the stop switch triggers - that my print head actually is IN FRONT of the bed when trying to Auto Home at 0,0.... Any ideas?? Thanks again for such a great video!
That’s ok. The end stops don’t need to be at zero zero as long as they are defined properly in your firmware. Once you start a print, it’ll go to where you need it to. :)
I don't know if you remember me. I was the guy who could not install alexqzd firmware. I got a friend with a better computer than mine. We finally got it to work. Thank you so very much. I was wondering if you could make a video about the functions it has?
Glad you got it working! Check this out: ruclips.net/video/HPfMZGkwlww/видео.html
You could print one of those dinosaur skulls, that would be a good test, it's long & low so it should fit and almost actual size!
That’s a great idea!
@@3DPrintSOS I've been known to have those on occasion. Not often enough tho. Usually my good ideas are a little out there and not particularly practical LOL
😂
I'd go direct drive on one when I do it. :)
I wish Aquila would just make a printer that big
I agree!
My only issue is the price for the full kit including the height, costs more than my printer did to begin with.
Gotta pay to play. 400mm printers are $$$$$$
Awesome, but also remember one very important fact....Naturally , as things get higher, gravity takes over,and may not be stable as a shorter frame...Means ,vibrations, unstability..and weaker frame all together....m
For sure. All things to improve upon over time. But at the moment, I can’t think of another way to get in on such a large volume at such a low cost. Might not be the best, but it’s a way for sure.
Still loving my semi-stock X2 but really want to go bigger. These kits are running 200, plus youll need to get the glass. Should i kick out the money for this or go with a whole new unit? I think you can get a 400x400 for around 350-400 now a few different brands.
I would only suggest this if you really want to tinker with it. Otherwise it's best to go with something else.
@@3DPrintSOS Thanks for your honest opinion. Appreciate your work.
A year and a half ago, I wouldn't even hesitate, but there are a ton of options out there now. Like I mentioned, I still had a ton of fine with mine but you have to want to do it. If that makes sense.
@@3DPrintSOS It does make sense. Why fix it if it's working perfect. I believe I will keep it for a smaller print printer. Possibly thinking about getting the Anycubic kobra max. When it's on sale it is not terribly expensive at all.
I wanted to get an extender kit however, I do not kow how to get the firmware (alex's) to400 x 400 x 400. Can you do a video on that process ?
Thanks for all the informative videos! After watching this - I purchased the same kit for my Aquila (first gen).
Would you friend be willing to share / compile code? G32 with CR Touch ;)
oooooh.....you know how I am about wanting more volume! hmmmmmmm
Guess I’m an enabler then. Haha
Can u drop a link for firmware for the new large build volume?
where is the link for the firmware? I need it for mine to get it to use the bed size and touch. Thanks.
I got all the hardware done and just finishing up the wiring as we speak, however, I was hoping to find a link for the firmware to change the bed size. Do I do that in the G code terminal? I already got the BL touch firmware installed, not sure if its going to work with the larger bed though.
One thing to keep in not, if you go 500mm on the Z height, consider getting some 40/40 600mm from that site as well and use the side rails to know where to drill your holes to make longer legs, as well I used elbow brackets on the top front and back on each side and on the bottom legs with a steal cable wire and a adjuster on each one to stabilize the z from swinging while printing, as well as move the spoole to the side of the unit. It maxs out my Ikia table.
I have it linked at the bottom of my Linktree link as well as in the description.
Thanks for the tip! I’m going to still with the short setup for now or maybe something just a hair taller. Not by much though.
@@3DPrintSOS Hate to say it, but I don't see that link anywhere for the firmware, I've went up and down all the links before the comments and the vid and no link to it. must be a secret link that a blind person like me can't see. . I've just bought the timing belt and pullies for my setup as well. want to make sure both z screws rotate correctly.
Please please please make a essential tool kit video! 🙏
thanks for the video went and ordered one for my aquila just wanted to no if i need to update the firmware on aquila or will changing bed size in cura work it has the alex`s firmware on it that you showed in the firmware update video you did .if it needs a firmware update could you direct me to where i can get it please
ayy been waiting for this vid
Glad I could deliver
I got the xl 400 do you know where to get the cr touch software for Alex’s software and also the new Alex software for the xl
Do you have to make changes to firmware or just update bed size on slicer
You have to do both. The firmware needs to know the boundaries of the machine.
@@3DPrintSOS Where can I find the firmware please?
I want to install a touch screen on the aquila and was wondering if it's even possible
Question... its been about 6 months now. Have you had any issues with your heated bed?
Hey. No. No issues. It’s not as fast to heat. Otherwise, all good. I’ll be doing a video on it soon. Got more mods to do!
Did you have to do any firmware updates to get the printer to actually USE the extra space, or was it always able to but the switches stopped it? Sorry I am literally JUST getting into this, literally only just order my first Aquila C2 yesterday. 😂
Yeah for sure. The firmware has hard stops for size. So you have to undo are the firmware with the appropriate numbers.
Do they just have a height extension? Thats all I really need.
Yes they do!
I did this to my Ender 3 to a 400xl. I also got the large Y carriage but cant figure it out.
HELP!! Have the 400xl on my Aquila but the Jyers firmware will only bed level in 235x235 stock bed size. If I slice in cura on a 400x400 buildplate it will print, but wont auto bed level or run a mesh bed leveling. Ive also tried to compile the firmware from source code, but it crashes during the build process in Visual Studios 😕
Amigo, como le conectaste el sensor de nivelacion? O me recomiendas algun video?
Sure. I did a video on it here: ruclips.net/video/Pito_oLbmBs/видео.html
I have an Aquila with a couple of mods, I'm on the hunt for a second printer now. Would you rather do this Ender extender mod to an Aquila, or just buy a CR10 or Longer that is already larger? I print ABS, so I'm worried the bed plate won't be right when adding the larger plate, to heat up the enclosure too.
Depends on what you want really. If you like to customize stuff, the Extender is great. But don’t do it to your only printer. If you have the budget, the mingda magician max is good, the longer LK5 Pro is decent (I’m selling one at a discount in my discord). For ABS, you’d have to do the same stuff as you would on a smaller machine. Make sure your hotend can get that hot and keep the printer either enclosed or in a room with very little to no moving air.
@@3DPrintSOS I have an E3d V6 clone with a metal heat break, an enclosure, I moved the electronics out of the enclosure. I have not done ABS yet but I have been printing Polylite PC, I'm hoping ABS is at least the same but I can vapor smooth it. It would be a second printer, thinking about picking up a not new one off Amazon, then adding the 400xl kit to it with the same mods and a .8 or 1mm nozzle. Looks like I would be in the 4-500 range enclosed and all, which is why I have been considering it.
That’s true. Plus you get the additional benefit of knowing you can literally modify it in anyway. It’s basically Lego.
@@3DPrintSOS off topic, your videos have been EXTREMELY helpful for those of us with these Aquila's. You're quite good at the informational RUclips segment, comfortable on camera, clear, but not so detailed that a moron like me can't understand. I watch a few of the "big time" 3d printing RUclipsrs and I consider your videos to be just as well done, so thank you for spending so much time on these printers.
I really appreciate that Ralph. I gotta get “back” to the Aquila here soon. I have more cool stuff for the “ultimate” build and the S2.
Hey Fedor thanks for another informative, interesting video! Has the X axis been OK with the added length? Almost seems you would need a dual Z with the doubled length of X axis.. Good luck!
So far yes. It’s really not that much weight being added. I mean, dual z would be great, but so far, not a problem. I’m not printing fast enough for it to matter. Only 50mms
I got a 400xl and it really needed one it's probably a good idea to put one
Noted. Been doing some test prints. All have been perfect so far. Doing a 36 hour print now. I’ll document it for a video
Amazing, Shame I could never (afford to) get this in Australia just like the CR touch which isn't worth the money in AUD :)
Maybe one day. :(
I love your stuff keep it up
Thank you. I appreciate that!
Any chance we could use the orange legs on the aquila? Thinking about getting the extension w/ the support members on it to keep the Z-axis stable.
I think someone made a remix for the Aquila yes.
Wish you could do the 300mm one
Since the 300 model is narrower, it would be very similar, but a bit more stout. Should be good!
@3DPrintSOS do you know if the 300xl for the v2 will work for the Aquila, because I think the 400xl is to big and the regular 300 for the Aquila is to short?
Yea the 300xl will work. They have Aquila specific kits on the site. ;)
@3DPrintSOS it says at the bottom of each Aquila kit dosent include glass. The ender v2 kits do and it the same price.
Ah, honestly I didn’t know that! But the kits are not the same. The Aquila has different mounting points. They aren’t direct clones. So, I’m not sure the Ender kit would fit without modifications.
Hey I’m doing the upgrade where do I need to look or goto for the updated firmware
If you’re going to do a 400mm with Cr/bl touch, I have firmware in my links on Linktree
Considering buying extender kit for my Ender 3 V2.. Would you still recommend this kit? I know a core xy printer is going to be better than a big "bed slinger" ... I also have a Ender 3 S1, I wouldn't recommend to anyone, and a Anycubic I3 Mega I got for $50 off marketplace, that sadly works better than the new S1 I purchased. Or should I sell the S1 and Anycubic and just buy a core xy printer? The only reason I consider this for my Ender 3 V2 is because it prints damn near perfect every time. Thanks!
Alguna otra pagina, que vende kit de extension para Ender 3 v2 neo ?
Did you hook yours up differently from the directions? I'm watching and see stuff done differently, which I'm not disagreeing but is their a better way?
Which part specifically?
@@3DPrintSOS you were messing in the silver box, I didn't have that in my instructions. It would be cool if you post the build video so one can watch it step by step. I'm having such a hard time with the directions I got with it 😞
Ah the power supply. Yeah I think I just went out of order a bit because I was excited. I made some mistakes during the wiring too. You can always head to their discord or Facebook group and get help directly. That might be better because I can’t really take mine apart for a video at the moment
@@3DPrintSOS do you still have the footage before you edited it for the video?
what you gonna print with that, a bath tub? lol.
Not a bad idea!
I notice it looks like you have a CR Touch on there. I have been trying to find someone saying if it would work with the Voxelab Aquila X2 without having to do a ton of extra work. Does it just go one just like it would an Ender 3?
Yes and no. Some people with H32 machines have had issues. However if you have a g32 or n32 machine, you could run Alex’s firmware and it works great. I have a video on it. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS Heyo, brand new to all this. What is n,h and g 32? How do I check?
Edit: nm found your other video about chips. Thanks.
;)
I have the ender kit 400x400x500 an was just wondering if anyone did anything to just flash the firmware for the bigger bed size?
You have to flash the machine with new firmware. There are hard stops in the firmware at the stock size.
Is there sag on the x ? Does it need 2 z rods to hold the weight?
No sag, has been great actually. I just had to adjust the wheels and take my time squaring the frame. I’ve printed short and I’ve printed tall. No z related issues
Great job , how long did this whole conversion take to strip down and then build up.
Depends on your experience with printers I guess. But it’s not too bad. I would say around 4 hours or so.
I did the upgrade, but can't find the firmware. can you help, thanks
Check the bottom of my linktr.ee/3dprintsos. I do think they have it on their site somewhere. If not, their GitHub for sure.
@@3DPrintSOS nice, thanks. i got the kit just recently and i was looking for the firmware, unfortunately i failed in compiling it my self, thanks for the kit recommendation as well, i watch your videos often.
@@3DPrintSOSPlease forgive my ignorance here as I fumble though all the information. I'm a bit confused. Is it required to update the firmware? I have the N32 and no CR/BL touch. Doesn't changing the build plate setting in Cura allow you to just power on and print?
Think this would work on the aquila s2?
It should, yeah.
Will this work with the Aquila x2?
Yep, as long as it’s not a H32. But even then, you can just swap the board.
Do they have an extender for the x2?
It should be exactly the same. :)
Sorry to comment on an older video, but just wanted to ask is this the Voxelab Aquila C2 model then? And would you recommend that model over the X2 or S2? Would this upgrade work with any of the Aquila line up?
No this is not the c2. Although I have a specific video on the c2. The x2 and S2 are far superior over the c2. The c2 has an h32 motherboard with loud stepper drivers. You also get a very old school screen. I would recommend any other Aquila.
@@3DPrintSOS Thank you, appreciate you taking the time to reply.
Absolutely. :)
Thanks for the discount code, but I don’t see an option on the site to use it. Where do I enter the code?
It should be right above the checkout button after you put in your info. It’s a blue text link, you click it and it expands to let you type in a code. :)
Any luck? I wonder if it has to be via my link or not. I’ll ask.
i might purshase this kit but i'm a bit scared because i have the alex firmware and i dont know if it gonna works with the 400x400 print bed
I'm looking to purchase the kit but I'm apprehensive about the firmware. I have N32 firmware stock from Voxelab but will I have to start using custom firmware for the kit to work or can I just change my profile in Cura or Prusa?
The stock firmware has soft stops at Max width. So, you’ll need firmware. Luckily, it’s not too hard. A bunch is provided by Ender Extender via their GitHub. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS thanks. love the content.
.... the Aquila X3 MAX is 400x400x450 for sub $300
Does it come with the new to size heater?
I would like to see a linear rail version of this kit. If I could get my hands on the prints or solid models of the machine, would be happy to design the conversion.
No, you use the stock one. And it actually works just fine. I bet if you add insulation, it’ll be perfectly fine.
You could easily do rails because it’s still and Ender clone at the end of the day. So you should be able to add parts super easily.
@@3DPrintSOS - was just thinking a longer linear in the X axis from McMaster would be all you would need, from there you can adapt out to any hot end on the market or a direct drive
@@3DPrintSOS - Thank you for all that you do! I have been using commercial 3D printers for years, but am new to the hobby, we all very much appreciate your helpful and insightful videos
Glad you find it useful :)
@@3DPrintSOS - so you just stack the old heater plate under the new plate...??
Where are you finding the firmware?
There should be a section on their site. If not, you can message them for it. I’ve also seen them on GitHub. Or you can always just compile your own Marlin just with a larger bed size.
The real question is does it still fit on the Lack Stand?
I was very concerned. haha It fits on top perfectly. Not inside though.
how long did it take to receive it in the mail
wow you might just have convinced me to do the same
It’s not the easiest of builds, but it’s super fun. The 300 kit might be the best one. :)
@@3DPrintSOS the biggest thing that makes me think this is what I should do is 1 shot print cosplay helmets
True. Do you know if any of them are less than 250mm tall?
@@3DPrintSOS I would print them sideways
Ah, interesting approach.
Does this fit the Aquila S2??
Yes, it should fit the S2. :)
Any tips on getting prints to stick to a glass build plate? I have my bed levelled, nozzle height tuned in for a good 'squish' first layer, but prints still come detached during print.
Go 5 degrees higher on the bed temp, clean it suuuuper well with isopropyl alcohol. If that fails you can use glue stick on a cold bed. However, that’s just a bandaid for a problem that can be fixed. It’s typically a temperature, or leveling issue.
Hair spray
So that kit works on the Enders? Also, is that a Direct Drive system?
Ender Extender has specific kits for specific printers. Ender 3 is what started it all, so there should be a bunch of options. No, not a direct drive but one can easily be added
I was watching your fan vid and was wondering why does the 60 have a quiet option but not the 40 also is there a difference between rgb vs non rgb
I did post it on that video but thought it had a better chance of being answered here
I wish you would have not glossed over the assembly process with a time lapse.
I just followed some pdf instructions. Video would have been an hour long. I DO want to get into live assembly though. That way people can follow along or with
is there a h2 firmware for the C2? im looking to add a bl touch
Would the Z-axis 500 extender kit work with this as well? was their any firmware update needed on Alex's firmware? Or did you just have to update the volume in cura for the printer?
Yep it would work. Man, that would be HUGE! Haha.
My buddy pulled Alex’s source code and changed 220mm to 400mm in the firmware and recompiled for me. You need to do it in the firmware for mesh leveling to work properly.
@@3DPrintSOS good to know! I can't wait for more updates on this project you've got going! I've been interested in a larger build system and depending on I might drop the money on both kits just to beef up build capacity so I don't have to slice up large projects as much!!
I don’t blame you. This is a fun project for sure. I love that I can upgrade it at my pace and keep making it better.
i am sad i can´t ship it to germany 😢
Shipping is crazy right now :(
Is there any way you could do an in depth setup for the aquila? I've had non stop problems with mine such as, stringing, shifting, just absolutely everything that can go wrong has gone wrong.
That’s unfortunate. It’s typically a few small but key things that tend to stack up and cause issues.
Anything specific I can help with?
@@3DPrintSOS right off the bat when I purchased and received my Aquila I have had over 100 emails with customer service. I had a bad motherboard then a bad extruder then even up to the power supply. I'm no expert at this stuff so it kind of helped fixing everything. I did the new fan conversion you had a video on put in a bl touch. But my printer doesn't work right. Cura us usually my go to but it seems to be off. The printer has been slipping every print. I've checked belts and they are perfect. I have excessive stringing on all my prints and I've noticed they aren't very accurate. I'm using petg since it's my favorite and I'm printing at 240 70. Just non stop issues as you can see. Any help would be wonderful.
@@3DPrintSOS also what software do you use? I am running jyers marlin firmware which has helped me a lot but I M wondering if it isn't helping
Join the discord server and make a post in troubleshooting. That was multiple people can help and you can post pictures to help us diagnose the issue. :)
@@3DPrintSOS how do I do that?
At some point you gotta ask... is it still an Aquila? That beast probably has more non-stock parts than stock parts now 😂 Awesome upgrade!
I’ve tried to keep it stock as long as possible. Haha. Hard to resist these things though. Too fun.
@@3DPrintSOS Yeah absolutely, it's great to see how flexible the Aquila is, and how many potential upgrades it can support
That’s the best part
would be cool to see linear rails on it